Six months of fiddling and it's finally good to go 1965 Brazilian Samba VW bus with type 3 carbs..

Hint - if your wolfsburgwest sliding window latches don't swivel freely, smack the wavey washers with a hammer to flatten the wave a little. That'll solve it.
The after-market black steering wheel wouldn't go on all the way and engage fully with Woodruff key so I removed key and put lapping compound on shaft and wheel and began spinning.. And after an hour of that, wheel fully engaged. Client later changed his mind and wanted white one - fully engaged as is. Lapping compound is basically grease with sand in it. Liquid sandpaper. Handy for a lot of things besides this. Use on damaged threads with a nut and run the nut back and forth until it goes on like you want. When assembling, use the same nut.
The carb linkage is readily available, but I think it's meant to push the carbs rather than pull. It hit sheet metal because the manifolds are original type 3 (lower than any aftermarket) as are the carbs with the choke cut off for clearance and you don't really need them. Hours were spent making the linkage work. The choke elements are hard to find, the mechanism is fragile/watch-like. The external linkage for them is usually tired. Brazilian carbs have a different emulsion tube. Won't rev as high as German. Fact. 40 mph max in 3rd in a 67 bus vs 50 mph in 3rd w/German
Ignore book specs. Yes to schematic
Bay bus carbs are same as type 3 with a few more drillings. Plug as necessary. Drill the idle air bleed to 2 millimeters. Solder the hole in throttle flap closed. Plug big air pipe at the back of the left carb that goes to pipe that leads to the manifolds. The big cutoff valve now has no reason to exist other than plugging its hole. Don't use the retard hose. Set the timing at 10 degrees.
On any configuration, use pilot jet size that gives best idle. Don't use electrics. Buy 45's and jet reamer and make sizes that work. Look carefully at pilot seat. Exactly the same as a natural gas fitting. Idle problems can be caused by damage here. If the threads have an insert, the jet won't center so it won't seat. Use a socket to tighten for proper seating. Screwdriver wont.
Mains - ~130
Air ~130-140. The smaller they are, the higher It'll rev. Go as big as possible without compromising higher rpm performance (lean condition).
Old type 3 carbs had big airs - like 240's. Probably won't work for us. The engines they're engineered for are long gone. They had tiny venturi too which compensates for the gigantic airs.
There many venturi sizes used through the years. 21.5, 22, 23, 24, and the 26 found in all bus carbs. The new Brazilian carbs have I think 21.5. Small can be turned bigger. 26 - sometimes they work and sometimes they don't - even on a stock type 4 bus. Sometimes a 23 is necessary. Yet a 26 can sometimes work on a stock 1600 dual port. I have no idea why.
The Brazilian carb kits for these - the throttle body and tops are fine to use if compatible with your air filters. The middle part shouldn't be used because of the emulsion tube. It's takes some real time to do this but the linkage was biggest time suck. 30 years ago it was literally bolt on. Geometry. Full throttle is attainable. Braze the center section into submission for proper cable alignment and throw for full throttle - test There's OG used stuff on the Samba sometimes. The levers on the center section on the new one were too long. They hit the fan housing. The geometry was totally wrong for this.The rods were fine, but I changed their lengths. For everything - a novel.
Use a cotter pin in the sheet metal under the throttle lever on each side to secure the return springs
Some type 3 carbs have 2 nozzles. 1500 S? They all have one for the accelerator pump, the other is for the power fuel jet. This can be put in by drilling one new hole for the nozzle. The rest of the plumbing is there even on bay bus carbs.
If it runs lean at moderate to higher rpms and has a low top speed most notable in 4th like it won't go past 50 and the engine is popping and snapping at the same time -
If a tiny air correction jet, a big main jet, and a small venturi won't fix it, power jet will.
The main circuit is a y intersection - air n gas thru top of the y (through the air and the main), then atomized fuel comes out the bottom of the y - the spray bar. That's how it works. Smaller air, more gas - rich. Bigger air, less gas - lean. Plug the air - only gas. Plug the main - only air. Get it? Applies after ~ 1200 rpm. Look in a carb when running, and you can actually see the spray bar kick in.
Idle fuel is invisible because it comes out under the flap.
Idles cold w no chokes. No wires anywhere. Runs like the real car you drive every day - smooth, zero hesitation. But if you do get a quick hesitation when you floor it at speed, it's too much gas from the accelerator pump. A rich dump. Best is make existing pump rod longer by about 5 mm to enable adjustment to ZERO. Sometimes they actually run fine like that so adjust output as needed.