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The Source, Robert Hays
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 2 ก.พ. 2011
Fixing Volkswagen's Solex 34PICT-3/4 carburetor hesitation
At idle, the pilot jet, just like a pilot light in a gas oven, keeps the engine lit, prepared to rev up when the gas pedal is pushed down. The moment the pedal is pushed down, the accelerator pump begins to squirt. If pedal movement stops with the throttle lever at only, say ... ~ 15/20 degrees open, the pump stops. In this condition, engine suction is too low to pull from the spray bar (main jet). So there's no fuel from the main or the accelerator pump. So it has to come from the pilot jet. If the engine loses RPM at ~ 15/20 degrees and tries to die with the throttle held in this position, that means there's not enough fuel from the pilot jet. Realize the initial response is solely due to fuel from the accelerator pump, and with pedal movement (lever movement) halted, the pump halts too. engine is dependent only on what's coming from the pilot jet. With a flat spot condition, the engine will continue to run then begin to falter as the fuel from the accelerator pump is spent while holding the throttle steady as described.
The pilot jet air bleed (basically an air correction jet exclusively for the pilot jet). Making it a little bigger (bug stock is about 1.35 - to 1.5. 1972 - 1974 bus carbs are 1.5. Type 3 is 2 millimeters). Drill to 2 millimeters and use a bigger pilot jet.
Buy a few 45 size jets and a set of reamers to enlarge the jet. A bit pretty close to 2 mm suse but can be found in a typical hardware store for the air bleed. Remove the pilot jet while drilling air bleed because the drill bit will hit it. Turn the bit by hand - don't use a drill motor!! The final pilot jet size can be as high as .75 or .80.
Do final idle adjustment with engine hot. Adjust for highest idle. Proper pilot jet size is when you can adjust it lean (clockwise) until it dies, and it can be adjusted rich (counterclockwise) until the idle gets lumpy, uneven. Somewhere in between will the highest idle.
Before any of the above, ck compression, leak down, LISTEN for leaks. Gauges are unnecessary. If you can hear ANY leakge during a leakdown test, it needs fixing. There's no acceptable, OK amount of leakdown. Tailpipe sound - exhaust valve leakage. Carburetor sound - intake valve leakage.
Leakage common on new engines with "go through the motions" machining or with narrow valve to seat contact surfaces that are less than factory specs for better flow. When doing valve work, always check for leakage with fluid like solvent or gasoline.
Also, there must zero air leaks in the intake system. The best way seal end castings at the head is to apply high temp silicone to the head side of gasket, then install gasket. Now put silicone on the end casting and install. Snug up the nuts, then tighten a few hours later. It'll never leak. Use stock steel gaskets. Paper gaskets don't last.
Air leaks in the intake system are the primary cause of many diagnostic headaches (they can be hard to find and their symptoms are often the same as other causes. And they're spooky, too.), and engine damage. Burned valves in fuel injected bay window buses, for instance, due to the many often neglected vacuum hosess.
Rationalization of air correction jet requirements re the bus needing them changed after years of being fine:
I think there's always cavitation at the main jet at high rpm so you get less fuel (lean condition) than without cavitation. But it's not an issue because everything works fine. So all is fine then the engine changed, smaller air is needed because of lean condition at high rpm because of more cavitation at high rpm so that's why this seems to conflict with the following*. But first - imagine totally plugging the air correction jet for the main. Not gonna work for pilot air bleed.
The following* ...
I think the bigger idle air bleed doesn't make for a leaner condition because the air is moving so slow vs prev, the system works like you'd think - no cavitation.
There's a device that's used to spray liquid fertilizer or bug spray that attaches to a garden hose. If the water is turned on to a trickle, little to no fertilizer comes out.
Solution is turning up the water.
Pilot fuel is the fertilizer.
Air bleed is the water hose.
Idle mixture? Just like riding a bicycle, the slower you go, the better you have to balance....
The pilot jet air bleed (basically an air correction jet exclusively for the pilot jet). Making it a little bigger (bug stock is about 1.35 - to 1.5. 1972 - 1974 bus carbs are 1.5. Type 3 is 2 millimeters). Drill to 2 millimeters and use a bigger pilot jet.
Buy a few 45 size jets and a set of reamers to enlarge the jet. A bit pretty close to 2 mm suse but can be found in a typical hardware store for the air bleed. Remove the pilot jet while drilling air bleed because the drill bit will hit it. Turn the bit by hand - don't use a drill motor!! The final pilot jet size can be as high as .75 or .80.
Do final idle adjustment with engine hot. Adjust for highest idle. Proper pilot jet size is when you can adjust it lean (clockwise) until it dies, and it can be adjusted rich (counterclockwise) until the idle gets lumpy, uneven. Somewhere in between will the highest idle.
Before any of the above, ck compression, leak down, LISTEN for leaks. Gauges are unnecessary. If you can hear ANY leakge during a leakdown test, it needs fixing. There's no acceptable, OK amount of leakdown. Tailpipe sound - exhaust valve leakage. Carburetor sound - intake valve leakage.
Leakage common on new engines with "go through the motions" machining or with narrow valve to seat contact surfaces that are less than factory specs for better flow. When doing valve work, always check for leakage with fluid like solvent or gasoline.
Also, there must zero air leaks in the intake system. The best way seal end castings at the head is to apply high temp silicone to the head side of gasket, then install gasket. Now put silicone on the end casting and install. Snug up the nuts, then tighten a few hours later. It'll never leak. Use stock steel gaskets. Paper gaskets don't last.
Air leaks in the intake system are the primary cause of many diagnostic headaches (they can be hard to find and their symptoms are often the same as other causes. And they're spooky, too.), and engine damage. Burned valves in fuel injected bay window buses, for instance, due to the many often neglected vacuum hosess.
Rationalization of air correction jet requirements re the bus needing them changed after years of being fine:
I think there's always cavitation at the main jet at high rpm so you get less fuel (lean condition) than without cavitation. But it's not an issue because everything works fine. So all is fine then the engine changed, smaller air is needed because of lean condition at high rpm because of more cavitation at high rpm so that's why this seems to conflict with the following*. But first - imagine totally plugging the air correction jet for the main. Not gonna work for pilot air bleed.
The following* ...
I think the bigger idle air bleed doesn't make for a leaner condition because the air is moving so slow vs prev, the system works like you'd think - no cavitation.
There's a device that's used to spray liquid fertilizer or bug spray that attaches to a garden hose. If the water is turned on to a trickle, little to no fertilizer comes out.
Solution is turning up the water.
Pilot fuel is the fertilizer.
Air bleed is the water hose.
Idle mixture? Just like riding a bicycle, the slower you go, the better you have to balance....
มุมมอง: 53
วีดีโอ
Part 2, Shift problems (reverse) w fully synchronized tunnel type trans in 1958 VW bug
มุมมอง 816 ชั่วโมงที่ผ่านมา
The accelerator cable is attached to the pedal lever with a 6X1 mm bolt. Use a longish bolt. Put it through the cable, then put 2 nuts on the bolt to space the cable away from lever for proper alignment at tube. Then, place the bolt through the hole in pedal lever and secure with another nut. Make sure the cable still swivels after everything is tight. This cable made a z shaped bend to reach t...
Disc brakes on the front of a 1958 Volkswagen bug. Really?
มุมมอง 3821 ชั่วโมงที่ผ่านมา
Welding material to the pedal contact face of the stop that attaches to the floor can help with pedals that hang towards the driver. You can lengthen the slot too. They should be near vertical at the pedal pad. This welding can help when adjusting the pushrod in that when finally adjusted, it'll be shorter and thus have more threads engaged. The surface of this solid state voltage regulator wil...
Six months of fiddling and it's finally good to go 1965 Brazilian Samba VW bus with type 3 carbs..
มุมมอง 381วันที่ผ่านมา
Hint - if your wolfsburgwest sliding window latches don't swivel freely, smack the wavey washers with a hammer to flatten the wave a little. That'll solve it. The after-market black steering wheel wouldn't go on all the way and engage fully with Woodruff key so I removed key and put lapping compound on shaft and wheel and began spinning.. And after an hour of that, wheel fully engaged. Client l...
The air-cooled VW brake fluid reservoir. This may be the problem you didn't know you had
มุมมอง 15714 วันที่ผ่านมา
I put a transmission and engine in this. All brake parts were already new including the new aftermarket disc in front. The car came to me with this done prior by another unknown mechanic. After the trans and engine were in, I couldn't get any pedal while bleeding. I decided to ck adjustment at the front but while jacking up the front I thought ... about the subject of this video. So I looked. S...
June 30, 2024. How to put a generator pulley on an air cooled Volkswagen properly
มุมมอง 617 หลายเดือนก่อน
How to put a generator pulley on an air cooled Volkswagen properly
A Real Nice 1965 Brazilian VW Bus
มุมมอง 748 หลายเดือนก่อน
Pretty much nothing mechanical works. What I say about the rear brakes is a fact. Check the play at the lever with adjusters backed off. Be sure the shoes are fully engaged in adjusters and wheel cylinder pistons with pistons pressed in all the way (You'll need to do this and the following each time you check with th springs installed). The speader bar can prevent this because the slots on the ...
My Type 4 Volkswagen Engine Oil Light Goes on While Braking and Around Turns
มุมมอง 858 หลายเดือนก่อน
This works. Fixing it with an assembled engine is hard but possible. Changing the tube during assembly is easy. Change the tube! Forgot to mention you'll need to drill a hole in the channel for draining. The pickup tube can be withdrawn and reinserted from the bore (not from the engine) with engine assmbled. Withdraw the tube to enable access with a 1/8 drill bit. Place hole near bottom of chan...
Fix up 1974 Porsche 911 S front brakes calipers for those of you interested in details.
มุมมอง 3910 หลายเดือนก่อน
Determine if your pitted brake caliper pistons will cause fluid leakeage or not.
March 27, 2024 How to bleed the brakes by yourself all alone on anything
มุมมอง 1010 หลายเดือนก่อน
Don't watch if you don't want to know how to free up really frozen brake caliper pistons on a 1974 Porsche 911 and many other vehicles.
How to REALLY replace the long shift rod bushings in an air cooled VW and much more
มุมมอง 109ปีที่แล้ว
How to REALLY replace the long shift rod bushings in an air cooled VW and much more
How to really do a grease job on a 1967 VW Westphalia camper bus
มุมมอง 16ปีที่แล้ว
How to really do a grease job on a 1967 VW Westphalia camper bus
Replacing the shift rod bushing in an air cooled Volkswagen Bug the right way.
มุมมอง 1.9Kปีที่แล้ว
Replacing the shift rod bushing in an air cooled Volkswagen Bug the right way.
Home Depot parking lot dwelling van needs a little work. Get paid to take it away.
มุมมอง 13ปีที่แล้ว
Home Depot parking lot dwelling van needs a little work. Get paid to take it away.
Preparing the VW flywheel and flywheel area for final flywheel installation.
มุมมอง 34ปีที่แล้ว
Preparing the VW flywheel and flywheel area for final flywheel installation.
Leaky VW intake manifold/weak valve springs? Can an intake port leak?
มุมมอง 742 ปีที่แล้ว
Leaky VW intake manifold/weak valve springs? Can an intake port leak?
Gutless rebuilt air cooled Volkswagen engine diagnosed and fixed, Part One.
มุมมอง 1882 ปีที่แล้ว
Gutless rebuilt air cooled Volkswagen engine diagnosed and fixed, Part One.
Brake job on an air cooled Volkswagen bug. Part One - wheel cylinders.
มุมมอง 142 ปีที่แล้ว
Brake job on an air cooled Volkswagen bug. Part One - wheel cylinders.
Find cylinder head surface area to determine combustion chamber surface area in air cooled VW
มุมมอง 2222 ปีที่แล้ว
Find cylinder head surface area to determine combustion chamber surface area in air cooled VW
thank you, your's seems to be the only one out there in video land. Just what i needed altho still a little confused ! ! Could have done with you finishing off in the video so i can see exactly whats what. Front bush has the 2 locating lugs and need to drill. The front bush hash the circular clip ? i think thats correct and the pther bush locates in the centre hole and has no clip. Did you use a silicon grease/lubricant on the shaft with bushes? Regards
Incidentally, the o ring for the cover (end cap) Stoddard part number is SIC 351 999 00 or 901 351 999 00. It doesn't come with the kit.
I hate seeing people do this use smoke or water. 🤠🤔🖖🤫🏴☠️
And booom 🔥 don’t recommend doing this
There's a water hose that's on with a trigger on the hose. And the plug wires aren't junk and the spark plug is in the cylinder head. So no risk.
Engine should speed up not die
It can do either.
You can check for vacuum leaks either way…. With NON-FLAMMABLE the idle drops With FLAMMABLE the idle increases Easy Peasy
Shouldn’t you be using ether or starting fluid for that? Won’t the brakekleen harm seals or gaskets? Asking seriously Ive never seen this done with brake cleaner
It's flammable so wotks. Even WD40 will work. They make a tool specifically for this that uses propane. I have a ttrigger nozzle on a water hose on the floor because a bad spark plug wire can ignite this. I think intake gasket replacement is more of a maintenance thing that something replaced only when leaking or rebuilding the engine.Air leaks burn valves.
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Also you didn't show welding the bracket back in and what to do about getting the heat off the bracket and not melting the new bushing, i use a water spray bottle after welding each spot weld to stop the heat, also have a wet rag under the rod and around the rod so no slag sticks to the rod. Grat video.
You dont need to weld it on. You use one bolt to hold it up before attempting to install the shifter. The shifter is then installed with one bolt loosely then you can take the other bolt out and use it for the second bolt for the shifter. It's a little tricky but not too bad. By not welding you'll have more adjustment because the retainer isn't stationary. The one I did prior to the one in this video had so little left to right movement in neutral it would favor either 1/2 or 3/4. Adjustment wouldn't do it. I had to put a washer between the lockout plate and the tunnel (or maybe between the lockout plate and the base - can't remember) for each bolt and it was perfect. Adding the washers changed the fulcrum point .
You are correct, replacing the bracket and bushing is best because I've seen the original bracket worn and it makes sharp edges on the bracket and it cuts through the new replacement bushing. I've seen them broken so it has to be replaced. More people need to see your video, I've been looking for someone that addressed this issue, THANKS!
nope
That's one out of round tire... definitely road hop.
It made a dull slapping noise. Was concerned it was a loose wheel for a bit.
We’re gonna get you one day traitor