I have that hat! Pointless comment but hey this is the internet. I changed my bushes last year and they were so terrible that I suffered the dreaded death wobble that nearly put me in a ditch. I replaced them the same day but kept the old ones to show the dealer. They where so soft you could push the steel tube inner out around 8mm! Total dangerous crap. Wasn’t happy. Great channel !
Getting the part with bushes installed is a good tip for the home mechanic. I did the same with the rear axel upper link ball joint. The complete part with OEM ball joint fitted was not much more money and certainly a lot less hassle if you don't have a press.
I've discovered that breaker bar ratchet adapters are a thing, which helps with the 6 point socket/bar in tight places issue a lot. Though you'd want shallow sockets probably.
....I'm in the process of changing the entire chassis on my 300tdi, and when I took off both my panhard rod and my radius arms, all of the 25 yr old bolts were pretty much pristine....which pissed me off as I'd already bought replacements! :)
G'Day Will, thanks for another good DIY in the home garage! :D How I use what type of bushing where and why is this, If its a vibrational force being exerted on the bush in a linear way, like say Dampers, then I use a rubber bush, if its a rotational force I use a Poly bush. Doing this so far has given me the longest life span on all my bushes and a better ride.
Well that went surprisingly well... Bet you had fun removing the adjustable after torquing her up! Now there's an argument about copper grease not being a fab choice around metalastic bushes. Thoughts?
I broke my 22 spanners yesterday trying the same thing..😤...couple of questions 1. What's is the difference on radius arm bushings (wider and short one) 2. Is there a specific milage on when to change the coil springs...thanks man
The difference in width is about 6mm: www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-axles-suspension/front-suspension/radius-arms-links_52609#1 There's no real mileage springs should be changed at, but people tend to do it when they feel like it as they're relatively cheap and easy to do, with lots of options available
... ok, so the party line would be to use a two piece poly type bush with an internal metal sleeve; solely chosen/ fitted on the basis of easier field replacement/renewal. But then again, I’ve had some fun burning the bushes out on a JetBoil and peening/smashing the core out by the side of the road. Scenes.
Tom Sheppard (of Vehicle Dependent Expedition Guide fame) recommends staying with the original bushes for overland expeditions due to longevity. You can't argue too much with bushes that lasted 20+ years, I guess.
I know where you're coming from. I've fitted Polybush before and they're a bugger as the bushes are in two halves and didn't squash in easily. Superpro are a better for that. I've typically go for genuine except where genuine isn't good, like rear shock bushes or anti roll bar
LR Workshop & Expedition ... so we agree on SuperPro? Lovely. It’s really horses for courses - we ran genuine for years 24/7 off road (roads were secondhand at the best of times) and the Gens just flogged out. Changed to poly and cut our field repair/stress/time by loads. No matter what you use it’s a high wear item so best get ready with the tools.
@@lrworkshop Hmmm...I'm building a 110 for a year in Africa right now. It's torn down pretty much to the chassis. From my military career I learned the easiest problem to fix is the one you prevent. It has some polybushes in it now. I am planning on replacing everything before I put it all back together. So, is SuperPro a better option? The destination is South Africa up through Tanz (maybe Kenya/Rwanda/Uganda) and back. I don't mind crying once...
the last bill i got from the garage for doing bushes made me go and buy a 10T press did my panhard rod bushes the other day took 6T to push one out and took 9T to push the second one out. Think i damaged the 2nd one when i was starting to push it out as the metal ring on the outside of the bush got a bit squashed witch made it a bit wider than the hole i was trying to push it through
This video was a godsend 😊, sat for ages trying to work out why my panhead rod didn’t fit, your tip and helpful torque setting sorted it 😊
I have that hat! Pointless comment but hey this is the internet.
I changed my bushes last year and they were so terrible that I suffered the dreaded death wobble that nearly put me in a ditch. I replaced them the same day but kept the old ones to show the dealer. They where so soft you could push the steel tube inner out around 8mm! Total dangerous crap. Wasn’t happy. Great channel !
heh the hat was bought for me, like the rest of the clothing I have with LR logos on :)
Getting the part with bushes installed is a good tip for the home mechanic. I did the same with the rear axel upper link ball joint. The complete part with OEM ball joint fitted was not much more money and certainly a lot less hassle if you don't have a press.
Thank you Will 👍
I've discovered that breaker bar ratchet adapters are a thing, which helps with the 6 point socket/bar in tight places issue a lot. Though you'd want shallow sockets probably.
Good tip Craig, thanks 👍
....I'm in the process of changing the entire chassis on my 300tdi, and when I took off both my panhard rod and my radius arms, all of the 25 yr old bolts were pretty much pristine....which pissed me off as I'd already bought replacements! :)
surprising eh? I took the original rear shock bracket bolts out recently and they were the same!
@@lrworkshop they certainly don't make them like that any more 😱
G'Day Will, thanks for another good DIY in the home garage! :D
How I use what type of bushing where and why is this, If its a vibrational force being exerted on the bush in a linear way, like say Dampers, then I use a rubber bush, if its a rotational force I use a Poly bush. Doing this so far has given me the longest life span on all my bushes and a better ride.
good tips, cheers
Well that went surprisingly well... Bet you had fun removing the adjustable after torquing her up!
Now there's an argument about copper grease not being a fab choice around metalastic bushes. Thoughts?
never heard of it myself, but I don't everything :D
Cracking honest vlog buddy and thanks for sharing!
Good video
whats the part nr for the new bolts?
I broke my 22 spanners yesterday trying the same thing..😤...couple of questions 1. What's is the difference on radius arm bushings (wider and short one) 2. Is there a specific milage on when to change the coil springs...thanks man
The difference in width is about 6mm: www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-axles-suspension/front-suspension/radius-arms-links_52609#1
There's no real mileage springs should be changed at, but people tend to do it when they feel like it as they're relatively cheap and easy to do, with lots of options available
@@lrworkshop thanks man cheers and stay safe
Nice job, thanks for share!!!
... ok, so the party line would be to use a two piece poly type bush with an internal metal sleeve; solely chosen/ fitted on the basis of easier field replacement/renewal. But then again, I’ve had some fun burning the bushes out on a JetBoil and peening/smashing the core out by the side of the road. Scenes.
Tom Sheppard (of Vehicle Dependent Expedition Guide fame) recommends staying with the original bushes for overland expeditions due to longevity. You can't argue too much with bushes that lasted 20+ years, I guess.
I know where you're coming from. I've fitted Polybush before and they're a bugger as the bushes are in two halves and didn't squash in easily. Superpro are a better for that. I've typically go for genuine except where genuine isn't good, like rear shock bushes or anti roll bar
LR Workshop & Expedition ... so we agree on SuperPro? Lovely. It’s really horses for courses - we ran genuine for years 24/7 off road (roads were secondhand at the best of times) and the Gens just flogged out. Changed to poly and cut our field repair/stress/time by loads. No matter what you use it’s a high wear item so best get ready with the tools.
@@LandRoversOverland I used to change lower link bushes every 6 months in Belize, but they were aftermarket and we couldn't afford better :(
@@lrworkshop Hmmm...I'm building a 110 for a year in Africa right now. It's torn down pretty much to the chassis. From my military career I learned the easiest problem to fix is the one you prevent. It has some polybushes in it now. I am planning on replacing everything before I put it all back together. So, is SuperPro a better option? The destination is South Africa up through Tanz (maybe Kenya/Rwanda/Uganda) and back. I don't mind crying once...
Made me laugh - "Copper grease is your friend" 30 seconds later "Copper Grease is your enemy" lol. but that happens to me too.
just watched again , and again i laughed lol
Panhard what ? Buy a stage one v8 lovely leaf springs. Lol nice work stay safe
the last bill i got from the garage for doing bushes made me go and buy a 10T press did my panhard rod bushes the other day took 6T to push one out and took 9T to push the second one out. Think i damaged the 2nd one when i was starting to push it out as the metal ring on the outside of the bush got a bit squashed witch made it a bit wider than the hole i was trying to push it through
thanks, good to know. I'll get a press one day 👌