(Part 2) Micsig CP2100 Current Probe First Use Part 2 Fuel injector Voltage & Current
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ส.ค. 2024
- Burning the Midnight oil, Using the Micsig CP2100 Current Probe to test Fuel Injectors Voltage & Current.
Part 1 Link: • (Part 1) Micsig CP2100...
Thank you Ryan. Good job again. Have a blessed and safe week to you and your family.
You’re welcome Billy, and thank you. Also, thank you for sending ThePracticalMechanic to my channel. I really appreciate the support.
You say the hump in the current ramp is when it is turning on, that is kind of correct, that is when the pintle inside actually moves and allows fuel to actually flow, you need to learn about this fact since this movement earlier or later will tell you things about the fuel injector mechanical health if the opening is affected in the current ramp, the closing should also be affected in the voltage waveform and these can tell you things such as the internal spring is broken or the pintle is having a hard time moving due to dirt build-up or not moving at all, stuck closed or open. Thanks for the cool scope patterns.
Thanks for the info Duane. The more we know, the better.
I’m not sure what happened to the comments that were here. There were a couple questions from someone with the TH-cam name of Honda something (can’t remember exactly). Maybe he deleted them (I didn’t). One was mentioning the difference in price between the Micsig CP2100 & the Pico TA018 (PP264). First off, I have nothing against Pico. I personally own the TA018 (PP264) & the TA019 (PP266). I’ve had plenty success using both. They have both proven to be reliable. They have been probably the most popular/used current clamps in the automotive industry. Also, I am not sponsored by or paid by Micsig. With that said, back to the price. The TA018 runs just over $100, has a maximum conductor diameter of 9mm, has 2 settings-one for under 20 amps and one for 21-60amps. I can not find the bandwidth capabilities. Also, it needs a battery to operate, with a low battery indicator. It has an auto zero button. Maximum conductor voltage is 300 volts DC. On the other hand, the Micsig has two models to choose from, CP2100A & CP2100B. CP2100A runs just over $200 & CP2100B runs between $500-$600. To my knowledge the difference between the two is the bandwidth, with CP2100A at DC approximately 800 KHz, and CP2100B at DC approximately 2.5 MHz. The CP2100 has a 13mm maximum conductor diameter (which can get you around the battery cable), two settings- one for 10 amps and under, and one for 11-100amps. The CP2100 does not need a battery. It gets its power from your scope or computer via a usb cable. It has an auto zero button as well as 2 manual zero buttons. When you press the zero button, it will beep once if it’s zeroed correctly, or beep 3 times if it did not (possibly magnetic field interference). Maximum working voltage 600 volts or less, with an overload protection with the buzzer beeping and the button light will flash. Also, if the current exceeds the range you are testing, the probe will beep and the light will flash. On a personal note, I do like how the Micsig clamp is separate from the actual module. This helps for tight hard to reach places. I like how the buttons light up to let you know what setting you are on especially at night. I like the lower 10 amp setting, and that it goes up to 100 amps. Now that I have both, I have a 10 amp, & a 20 amp setting to use depending what I am testing. Just like anything else (scan tools as an example), the more options you have in your arsenal, the better off you will be. Not to mention, it’s nice to have the current clamp that was designed for my scope. Last but not least, I really like that the CP2100 comes in a nice little case with the soft but firm insulation. I mostly work as a mobile mechanic, so I’m not keeping everything in my toolbox or cart. I hope this information helps anyone interested in purchasing the Micsig CP2100 current probe.
Thank you for your video on this scope l have learn a lot you awesome I getting to love this scope
You’re welcome Ronald, I’m glad I could help. I really like using mine too.
Thank you for your vídeo, How can i get this fusível for testing current help me
Hello, you can get this current clamp through Amazon.
Man you are a life saver, need a amp probe. Where did you get that one from and how much did you pay for it?
You can get the Micsig one I’m using in the video on Amazon. If I remember right it was around five hundred. I know, that ain’t cheap. I also bought a Pico low amp clamp from AutoNerdz, that I paid $99 for. It’s the one everyone has been using for years. It’s a good amp clamp for Automotive. When I got the Micsig amp clamp, there were two options. I got the more expensive of the two. I think the other one was around two to three hundred. They look identical. The Pico one is more than capable for automotive use. I got the Micsig one because I have been getting into repairing and building other types of electronics. Good luck my friend.
That last comment I don't know who delete it I am not against this product it look good also but just compare the price with pico low current probe pico more economy
Yea, I know what your saying about the price. I guess it has to do with the bandwidth. Also, I like that the Micsig does not need batteries. I don’t know how many times I left my Pico on when I put it away. I also like that the clamp is separate on the Micsig, so it’s smaller and can fit into tighter places. But like I said, I don’t have anything against the Pico current probe, I just like the Micsig better.
I accidentally deleted a few comments on my channel by accident. I was holding my phone reading them, while I fell asleep, and accidentally deleted a few. If I deleted yours I apologize. It wasn’t just yours; I also accidentally deleted a few that we’re saying good things about my videos. I keep everything on here so everyone can get an honest opinion of this scope and how to use it. That’s pretty much why I started this thing to begin with. Anyway, I appreciate you watching my videos and leaving comments. This is a small channel and I really appreciate every single subscriber, like, and comment. Thanks again.
Hey man awesome content! I just wanted to ask you about probing the injectors, since on the back of the scope it says max Vrms 300V which would mean the peak voltage to be around 424V (dc) per channel. I know injectors can release around 80V (dc) and all the way up to 200V once the current stops being supplied, and that's the spike you can see on your screen. However I know you're using BNC banana wires to back probe it here and on the side of them it says 30V. So my question here is, is it really safe to use BNC banana wires for the fuel injectors and on the contrary when would it not be safe to use them (as in risking to burn the oscilloscope) ?? And also when would you use the attenuated P130a probes? Sorry for such a long post, but you seem very well educated in this matter, and I would really appreciate your response. Thank you.
Hello Yar Holiyan. Thanks for the question. When I first bought my
ATO1104, I would use the P130 probes that came with the scope for fuel injectors. Then, one day while checking the injectors on my wife’s car, I accidentally used that BNC leads. When I first realized what I had done, I got pretty nervous, but nothing bad happened. With that said, to be on the safe side, I highly recommend using the P130 probes That came with the scope, since they are attenuated, or the 10:1 pico attenuators, or the Hantek 20:1 attenuators. I personally bought the Hantek attenuators off of Amazon; they were not expensive. I hope this helps my friend. Thanks for checking out the channel.
PS, also, if I remember correctly, the Micsig is good up to 300volts, and small spikes up to 1000 volts (don’t quote me on this). Maybe this is why I had no problem with the bnc. I still recommend using attenuators or the P130 attenuated leads, to be safe. I am by far, no expert on this information. The reason I made these videos was because when I first bought my Micsig automotive scope, there was almost nothing out there showing how to use it. I basically taught myself by trial and error, and made these videos to try and help others get started. With that said, I am sure many other people are well more educated on all this than I am. I have personally learned a lot from others, right here in the comments section. Good luck my friend. I would personally use something attenuated for injectors and secondary ignition.
@@atomsworkshop195 Thank you for such a quick response. I really appreciate it! Can you tell me did you have any attenuators connected with the probes in this particular video? And am I correct that you are in fact using the BNC banana wires here? The reason I'm asking is because when you go to Injector testing under Actuators tab, on the bottom it suggests to use BNC banana wires, so I wouldn't expect them to have a wrong suggestion on oscilloscope itself. On the other hand I don't fully understand how you would use the P130a to back probe anything anyway since they don't have that long needle.
I had to go back and watch some of the video (it’s been a while since I’ve seen it). Yes, I was using the regular bnc banana leads. I had no attenuators connected. The way you could use the P130 leads, would be to use a sewing back probe, then connect the P130 leads to it. I’m honestly not sure what they are called. Scanner Danner uses them all the time in his videos. I bought a big pack of the from a hobby store, in the sewing section. They are shaped kinda like a capital T. You stick the sharp end into the back of the wire harness, then connect the P130 (or alligator clip) to the other end. I wish I could share a picture on here. Also, I just turned on the ATO1104, clicked the automotive button, and went to petrol fuel injectors, and it says, voltage, bnc banana. So it doesn’t even recommend attenuators or the P130. So, either they messed up (like you mentioned), or they believe it’s safe to just use banana leads for the injectors. Like I said, I’ve done it a few times (first time by accident), and haven’t had any issues. But I’ve had a few people in the comments question whether it’s safe or not, so I just ordered a few hantek 20:1 attenuators from Amazon for $11.33 per attenuator. The way I see it, if there’s any doubt, just put on an attenuator. Just don’t forget to go to the channel menu and click the correct attenuation amount. For a little over 40 bucks, you can buy 4 20:1 Hantek attenuators, so you have one for each channel. I hope this makes sense to you. Let me know if you have any other questions, my friend.
@@atomsworkshop195 I very much appreciate you taking the time and clarifying all these important little nuances. You pretty much answered every question I had and I know exactly what sewing pins you are talking about. That does seems to be a great way to solve this matter. As for now, I have subscribed to your channel (you have some amazing content) and looking forward to continue our discussion in future videos. I just bought one of these oscilloscopes myself and once I learn more about it maybe I will discover some interesting features and share with you pertaining to a specific video. Till then, I wish you all the best, my friend.