Resin Copies, Mold and Cast medium size parts
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 เม.ย. 2024
- How to copy a medium size object. Create a self locking two part silicone mold, then cast a resin copy into the silicone mold to make a duplicate part of the original.
Dragon skin 30A silicone: amzn.to/3jT030K
Casting resin: amzn.to/3tnvi7b
Vibrating table: amzn.to/38oanbj
Simple Resin for casting: amzn.to/2P1knjA
CPS 10 CFM vacuum pump: amzn.to/3jM1ig9
Black Skintx Latex gloves: amzn.to/3jQuwKH
Petroleum Jelly: amzn.to/2EcR5t0
Naphtha: amzn.to/3aK4sgs
Loctite super glue: amzn.to/3nXxPkx
Zap kicker: amzn.to/3qEuqJM
Elmers 16oz white glue amzn.to/38Gl4TJ
Urethane resin: amzn.to/3iYisah
3M 6200 respirator: amzn.to/3gHIfAR
3M 60923 filters 2 pac: amzn.to/2EGVm8w
3M 7162 Full-Facepiece Spray Paint Respirator: amzn.to/2EKYkcb
Digital scale: amzn.to/3pvX66N
Dewalt drill: amzn.to/3fuFtRH
My Video Gear:
Panasonic GH5 amzn.to/35ZeQgp
Panasonic GH4 with lens amzn.to/2Nb5B7b
Panasonic Lumix 14-140 lens amzn.to/2FOxYmi
PANASONIC LUMIX G X Vario Power Zoom Lens, 14-42MM Power O.I.S
amzn.to/2J3KsJH
Manfrotto 244 Variable Friction Magic Arm: amzn.to/2X7YwIT
Manfrotto 035RL Super Clamp: amzn.to/3dbPWyf
Headphones Sony MDR7506: amzn.to/2ycntIV
Samsung 128Gb MicoSD card with adapter
amzn.to/2CcEFzW
Zhiyun Crane V2 3 Axis Brushless Handheld Gimbal Stabilizer
amzn.to/2NKp2kz
Pergear Tripod Tabletop Stand for the Zhiyun Handheld Gimbal Stabilizer
amzn.to/2NaKWjK
My Audio Gear:
MXL 990, XLR Connector Condenser Microphone: amzn.to/3elRw1K
Shure MVi Digital Audio Interface XLR to USB: amzn.to/2VzjgYa
USB-C to Micro usb cable: amzn.to/3cfcrSb
My Hardware:
Apple 16" MacBook Pro: amzn.to/2VrAI0C
Apple Thunderbolt 3 cable: amzn.to/3clTwVV
G-RAID with Thunderbolt 3 amzn.to/2uQppFx
LG 27UK850-W 27" 4K Monitor: amzn.to/3elxpk7
Apple iPad Pro 12.9-inch: amzn.to/2K5qwp7
Apple pencil 2nd gen: amzn.to/3elyisX
Apple iPad Mini 5: amzn.to/2VrJzPP
Slope stand by whip labs: amzn.to/2APaDSt
Extreme pro SD card USB-C reader: amzn.to/3e4bNb1
Apple USB-C to SD Card Reader: amzn.to/3cgGXeo
ThinkTank Shapeshifter 15" Backpack: amzn.to/2Cc6U1F
.03 styrene white www.ebay.com/itm/401085113497
.03 styrene black www.ebay.com/itm/401511376750
.06 styrene black www.ebay.com/itm/401640731374
.06 styrene white www.ebay.com/itm/401700315280
Luer lock bottles with needles
www.ebay.com/itm/402687721827
Music: end credits Rurlyok
rurlyok.bandcamp.com
Contact me through www.botzen.com for design work,
you can follow me on:
Twitter: at / botzendesign (@botzendesign)
Facebook: / botzendesign
Instagram: / botzendesign @botzendesign
Botzen Design Inc.
Industrial Design and Product Visualization
www.botzen.com - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I have never seen epoxy poures where you dont have to do back to check for bubbles or anything! Just pouring inside a closed container and not knowing if its ok until its cured gaved me anxiety 🤣 you're amazing!
Eric you are the man I’ve never seen a copy get done like that. Where are you poured in the center of the mold that’s actually really cool.
Quality !!! Nicely done Eric, superb work as always.
Beautiful !!! Thank you!!
Thanks for the detailed design!
This was great, super clear and simply explaned!
Eric Thank you for sharing this process.
Thank you for sharing your expertise! Your system is absolutely brilliant!
Great video. Thank you for all your hard work
Love this! I never was able to see the details of this before
Excellent video Eric, I like how you show and explain the technical aspects in this video.
Amazing craftsmanship, learned a lot from this, thanks man.
Great video. The pours look spot on. Great work. Mahalo for sharing! : )
Awesome tutorial. Thank you 🙏
Well, you made that look easy. Its shows what, planning and time spent making custom mold boxes etc pays off in the end product. You sounded like you had time constraints and yet the order was filled. Well done, Eric.
"you made that look easy"
I was thinking the same thing. I've made silicone molds myself. My molds never turned out nearly as well as Eric's molds.
Thanks for another great video Eric Strebel!
Excellent video as always.
Your clearly a Master Mold Maker...👍👍
Very impressive, Nice work! first time I have seen this locking mold concept, pretty interesting for sure!
Loved this video! This is exactly I was looking for. Thanks !!
Tks for Share Eric !
Came for the title and video, stayed for the Swiss Flag on your hat… i dont regret both… greetings from Switzerland 🇨🇭 (Zofingen)
Hopp Schwitz 🇨🇭
Danke glichfalls 🤣
Thanks for this video. I made a mold box using this method and it turned out great! no more leaking resin!
Great tips, and I like the calm informative nature of you narration without a lot of unneeded jibber jabber!
Trying to do that, thanks
This is bloody stuff you made man excellent.
Great job am impressed 👍
Thank you so much! Such a clear and expert instructional video. You have saved me many hours of trial and error.
Brilliant mate..
You are doing a great jobs 👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks
Great video again!
I used some PVA glue to make a seal on my mould yesterday and I was wondering if it was a good idea or not. Glad to hear your approval on that method. Your videos are always insightful.
Excellent my friend!!
bel lavoro. complimenti
Another great video, thanks for taking the time Eric! I will be using this process to make custom drone avionics enclosures using a 3D printed master
Good luck, tag me on social media, I'd love to see the parts
More of these please
❤good job!
You're awesome man!
Really helpful stuff, nice vid. I don't get how the sprue was in the floor yet the resin filled the walls?
Thank you thank you. Now I know what I need to do.
that's great!👏, thank you for sharing with us.
Your welcome
Thanks
Thank You for Sharing.
Thanks for the demo, I'm doing some wierd moulding, im trying dried oil syrup in salt! hahaha
Very interesting! Thanks for a great explanatory video
You're most welcome
@@EricStrebel I will check your other videos! Then I' have some questions etc. for you! :) It's a bit late here now.
I realy enjoy this new format. Very clear, and hopefully you reduced a bit of time in the production/editing
Your videos have been amazing since day 1 (for me 3000 subs.)
Thanks
Thankyou for your longtime support, I really appreciate your feedback and dedication to the chanel and content
great video thx again
Very nice. 👍
Bob Ross of silicone casting
very nice
Great vodeo
Great, thanks Eric :')
Love the video, very helpful! How do you not end up with a funnel full of cured resin stuck to the part?
You do, you have to break it or twist it off.
Awesome video! I'm sure you've been asked this before. Any idea if lighter fluid will work as a substitute for naptha?
Nice 👍
This is perfect. I'd like to resin cast some molded electronic shell parts so that I can have a semi-transparent casing on my phone. I love the guts, but black is so boring!
All that work, materials and time for just 10 pieces off :-O
#brilliant
Yup
Rock on brother
Great!
When you mix why don't you use a paddle on a small drill, works for me 100 per cent. Good vlog. 👍🇫🇷
Very informative, but how did the silicone not tear off in the threaded holes? Thanks:)
How do you prevent the resin from flowing back into the pouring hole and leaving a thickening behind? The law of communicating vessels seems to apply here. I don't see any trace of the pouring hole, so how do you do that? Nice job, btw.
You are a boss! I'd love to get your help on casting a small part. Mould orientation, where to place vents and sprues etc. Do you have a patreon for this sort of thing?
Cover looks great! Did you support the mold the length of the cover? Silicone looks like it could sag along the length.
Exelent video... great technique... thanks for sharing your knowledge
One Question... Can you make GEARS for an E-Bike Transmission with the RESIN material you used??? Does it stand wear and some heat???
You just need to choose the correct resin with the properties that you want
the MAN!
Hi Eric, with the large volume in the second pore, would it be possible to block that out to save on silicone?
The silicone you use can't be found in the UK -- is there something by Smooth-on that's an equivalent that you know of?
Thanks!
This video revolutionized the way I think about making resin molds! About the way you used packing tape to cover the holes, is there any worry that the mold may become damaged when removing the part(s) and ripping the positive mold side? Also, how long do you figure the mold will last considering the size and shape? Thanks!
Ripping the molds is always a possibility just have to be careful. You should get 20 parts out of a mold more if you're gentle
Interesting process but the problem I have with the idea is when people take commercial items and do recasts and then sell them. Conceptually it is the same as making copies of copyrighted material and selling them for profit. A big* problem in the garage or small batch area of scale or figure modeling
*well maybe not big but it is big to the kit producers
And it is nice that you supply links to product suppliers
Cool
This is an astonishing video. Thanks.
How much different is your polymer pour from that of polymer used for a rifle.
I was interested in making some of my own rifle parts, and was curious how to make my own molds lead me to your video.
This video made it seem fairly easy to set up at home, however I was wondering the structure rigidity difference between an at home pour vs factory. Mind you, I am aware of it depends on the maker , but in your case. How close do you think you could replicate the quality of strong polymer parts.
Great video. Thank you. What was the resin you used for the actual part as I'm looking to make a multi-compartment tool box.
I would recommend a resin from bjb enterprises they will have what you need for your application
Great video, Eric! Your tutorials are exceptional in that they are methodical and can basically serve as scholarly courses. I really admire your work! I was meaning to ask you for the advise for quite some time now. Namely, I am working on a toy prototype, and I am in the phase when I cast various parts of it using Smooth-on's Smooth Cast 310. I have a bit of a trouble producing the right colour of the part by using So-strong pigments. Namely, how does one measure the right amount of the pigment that goes into resin in order to achieve repeatable results (i.e. to ensure each copy of the part in the series is the same colour)? I find it quite hard to estimate the right amount of pigment since it is so strong on one hand, and the resin tends to turn lighter when it cures so the colour attained when the resin is in a liquid state is not the same when the resin cures. How does one overcome this difficulty? Thank you for your consideration.
Good question, put them in a dropper bottle so you can measure the drops of color 😊
@@EricStrebel Thank you, sir! Sounds logical :)
Thank you for your reply, I have a 3D printer.
I'm a Vietnam Combat Marine and I purchased 4 EGA to mount on my 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 pickup. They are all rigid and I need to make a mold of them that I can put against the side of the truck to cast them with the proper curves to paste to the truck. I plan to paint the truck a gloss black including the EGA. I would welcome any suggestions you might have to help me. Thanks.
Eric, when you color match, do you need to cast the entire finished part or can you do small batch tests in something like an ice cube tray?
Testing in small batches is a pretty good idea, ice cube tray would probably work well, or just small mixing cup
i love the self locking meganism could the be used also wen you make a mould for a plastic model car body because as in your piece you can clue it to bottom and it is seald from sillicon pooring in into the insude of the mould how too solve this problem with a body model car that is not the same hight ?
It could you be used for any kind of mold
Great video! Thanks!
Question: could you use a dummy block in the second pouring to save some silicone? For example placing a hanging wood block in the middle of the original plastic part and then pour the silicone. This would create a big recess on the silicone but would save a lot of silicone, which is expensive.
Then, when pouring the resin you could still place the wood block to make it stiffer and remove it after curing to ease the demolding.
You could but I don't think it's worth it
@@EricStrebel looking at smooth on prices for their silicones, maybe a $40 or $50 savings would be expected. Also for even larger pieces could be nice to save some bucks.
Best to cut up old molds and recycle them, it's just a huge pain in the ass I find to do that
WOW!
How do you make the vent tubes, you say urethane resin in straws, and it looks like you cast the pour hole inside the funnel? What resin do you use for this, and do they need to be coated with release before pouring the top half of the mold?
Thanks, great video!
Yes, our urethane resin into staws, cut and sharpen in pencil sharpener. Any resin can be used.no mold release if you use a plastic straw.
What if you don't have a laser cutter? I like your silicone box. Is there another way to wrap the lid for a smaller box?
If you don't have a laser cutter then you can 3D print a splitter board or do it by hand
How do you prevent silicone in central part of top mold from bowing down and causing wall of the product to be thinner in that area?
Great video. I want to make like 100 small parts bins for screws and stuff. What resin would you recommend? The problem is it probably won’t be more then 1/32inch thick. Maybe 4x3x3 inch. Thanks.
Yes a quality 65 or seventy shore D duromerer resin, try @bjbeneteprises
Do you not have problems with shrinkage or deformation due to the elasticity of the silicone mold, causing tolerance issues?
Wow. That seemed to work so well. What resin are you using for the final piece… pu?
Usually a resin from rampf 3070
Do you have a process for color matching, or do you just go by your personal sense of the color? If you have a process, that would be a great subject for a video!
Good point, color matching is super hard
Hello, This is awesome. Lemme ask a question, What is a good resin I could use for producing commercial wireless charging cases? Thanks.
Check with support at Rampf and BJB Enterprise
With such a large and precisely rectangular product, were you worried at all about the silicone mold deforming a bit without the box sides to support it and keep things square? The end product looks great, but have you run into that problem before?
Nope, it's a cover that houses somethings, not that important for this part
182 likes Zero dislikes, thats class ❤️🙂
Awesome, did not even notice that
I have a synthetic rifle stock, the kind that has webbing in the fore end instead of solid plastic. I'd like to fill those voids to stiffen my stock. Any suggestions on a simple plastic mix that is stiff, but will also stick well?
Make a hailong battery case. Which is use for E bick.
Hi, I'm looking for a grey liquid dye for using with my resin, any suggestion on a brand I could use?
How well does your resin capture surface details like scale diamond plate and rivets?
If you notice at the end of the video the resin captured the little sticker on the end, I've also seen resin capture things all the way down to sub .05mm print lines on models I've ordered
Captures everything
awesome video as usual Eric, can you give me a ball park on what you charge to copy a hanger is what they call it for my sony mdrxb950bt aheadset. Its the part that holds the headset or the earphones. These are the weakest part of these headsets and and they are not available anymore as a replacement parts. I was going to have them 3d printed but I don't know what is more cost effective , cast them or print them. I saw how you make your parts with resins and they look nice. please reach out to me , thank you
3d printing is gonna be way more cost effective
@@EricStrebel ok 3d print it is, can i send you a pair of good ones L and R and can you replicate them in black and how will i pay you? and if all is good where can i send them? thank you sir
Would a pressure pot do the same thing with the bubbles in the silicone?
Yes it would, so not something you want in your silicone
Would this method work the same for makimg boxes that have a lid like a rugged box case to hold cameras and electronics
Obviously 2 moulds one for the box base and one for the lid
Yes ,of course
@@EricStrebel Great. thanks for your fast response
the table were you left for curing silicon was level right
Yes
Very educational video.
Have a question. What about the measure, Dos the copy deviate from originals. Have heard that resin shrinks a lot. maybe you could put out a mini Video on that subject? You got a new subscriber*S*
Use good quality esin
Hi Eric,
I'd like to understand what happens with perpendicular holes that are ininside the box in each corner, that seem to be for screws or similar. How do you reproduce them on the copy?
They are drilled after the part is removed from the mold.
@@EricStrebel Great to know! Tks!
Beautiful..!! I tried this a couple of times and still don't get my expected results.. :( .. how do you avoid the cardboard to stick with the silicone?? rock on!
Seal it with shellac
Thanks Eric. Since I don't have the laser cutter switched to a 3mm inch trovicel plate instead of cardboard and it worked wonders! easy to cut with exacto knife and is solid in all edges 👍
Great tutorial. Learned alot. But, could you ballpark the price for that medium sized container?
I'm trying to wrap my head around the economics of purchasing 10 vs. going through the molding process.
Depends on complexity and what you expect the end results to be and what it's intended use will be.
Hi Eric, thanks for the video. I have a quick question, i got some polyurethane resin that i want to use, but the curing time is about 3min and i dont think it will give enough time to degas it. Is there a product that can extend the curing time?.
Nope, not that I know of. Get a resin that has a longer working time.