A 4 part mold could give you both colors. Use a blocking plate for the red, and then when it sets but before it cures remove the plate, bolt the 2nd cavity set up and pour the amber.
Great video. It is why I look for people like you so that I can just purchase the finished part. The amount of time to produce the mold and the cost of the equipment and supplies you have in your lab easily exceeds $ 10-12 K USD. You will need to sell a lot of these lenses to bring the per part cost down to an affordable retail price. Thanks for showing us the process as I think many people don’t understand the amount of time and energy required to procure the molding equipment. cheers
3200 dollars nets you the equipment. 1.2k 3d printer, 1k pressure tank, 200 drill press, 200 vacuum tank and pump, 100 circular saw, 100 warming box, 100 PPE, 100 scanner, 75 resin, 75 resin for mold, 20 wood framing, 15 filament. Getting a perfectly clear part like his will take some trial and error on timings, but his video goes a long way in helping get past the headaches. Amazing job on his part, but equipment costs you state are to high.
Casting optically clear parts definitely is challenging. Really like your walk through of the process and your intelligent use of 3D printing to support this project. Excellent finished product. Always interesting content, Eric. Thanks for sharing!
I can't believe how much messing about you had to do just for two small parts which most people would see as OEM. Fantastic job, incredible detail you should be well pleased with them and yourself. 👍🏼 I'm now Subscribed to see what other amazing thins you can magic up.
Absolutely fantastic. I had no idea you could do this 'at home'. Simply remarkable outcome, and I am glad you portrayed the cost as it is, so I would have no illusions to DIY any time soon; but I am storing it away in my mental archive. Thank you.
I have played at this in a DIY capacity. Vacuum chamber essential in my opinion, a few hundred GBPs from Easy Composites. Don't have a pressure chamber but have got away with it so far (with smaller parts)
I'm sure there is a great way to cut it into parts. One way, Eric, is to take a table saw or similar, and cut 2 of your castings in half. The reason why I suggest doing 2 castings, is because the width of the blade takes away some material. So you could cut off a little less than you need from each half, and shave them down with a sanding machine (one that is stationary), until it is exact. But you did a really great job! Looks nice! :)
Fantastic work. I have never casted clear parts. The difference between small bubbles in an opaque part and Zero bubbles in a good quality transparent part is enormous. A pressure can is on my ToGet list.
The most readily available pressure tank is the 2.5 gallon one from Harbor Freight. There are some videos out there on setting it up for pressure casting.
I had a pair of Hillman Minx Lenses cast in two colours Red and Amber. They came out perfect like these . Only cost me $250.00 "Classic Plastic" was the man. Sadly he's retired now.
Another fantastic work. Something makes me think that this wouldn't be quite possible anywhere else than the US. I mean to have your home workshop and all the needed tools and material to produce this kind of result. Finding even the most non-ubiquitous materials and tools I think is only possible in the US.
Awesome video, Really love the use of 3dprinting to simplify the mold making process. Awesome results too, I couldn't find a flaw if I tried. Its so fortunate your customer was able to provide such nice examples to replicate.
Make more of these for plastic or rubber parts, It would be awesome, there is so many people (including myself) that don't find spare parts anymore. 3D printing will revolutionize this market
The end product looks fantastic, the gloss level is amazing. It does look good all red but I live in the UK and we have to have Amber indicators/Turn signals on vehicle past 1965.
This is my first time watching one of you videos. I don't know what to make of it. The explanation and walk through of your process was great. $2000 for taillights that's insane. I've done rear taillights for my Volvo. The finished product was great but i did mine without a pressure tank. I had to do some extra post work but my cost for materials was only $143. The taillights were gorgeous and i had them on the car till i got rid of it. I'm glad you can make such a substantial profit. Maybe I'm in the wrong business. 😂 Be blessed.
You talk about the cost of materials, he talks about all the cost including his time. And someone has to pay for the pressure chambers and all that. I have no idea if that price is reasonable. But I think it is good that he mentions it. Some companies or enthusiast will pay that money. Lots of private person won't pay it so there is no point in contacting him. Win/win.
I’m pretty sure that somewhere in the comments somebody had said this before. Making a slight modification in your mold where the air vent is at the very top of the tail light mold, you can use two large syringes for two tone lenses. Red one at the bottom and the orange one at the top. You will inject the red fluid and then vacuum process the mold with the red fluid being up to the level of the adjoining orange fluid. The red fluid has hardened enough in the mold before adding the orange fluid with the vent all the way at the top. Now inject the orange fluid until the orange fluid comes out the top vent. Vacuum chamber process the whole thing a second time. Remove both syringes from the mold, and then crack open the mold. You might have to saw off the syringes first. Then grind any remaining material at the very top of the lens. Red gets injected from the bottom of the red region. Orange gets injected from the bottom of the orange region. The vent is at the top. The mold is oriented vertically. This is a two-step vacuum chamber process. I am sure that you can do this a third time with a Clear lens in the middle of one or both of the colors. You would just have to use a modified mold To inject in the clear fluid and vacuum chamber that new material. So for three colors, you will use two different molds and three vacuum stages. You will corner the market in MG, Mercedes, and other exotic classic parts that are impossible to find for hobbyists and college students alike. Give it a whirl. Get rich? Send me some. Make three color lenses in any shape. Guess how much a Mercedes 190B tail light costs. You probably already figured this out. Gravity and orientation during degassing is the challenge.
@@Lennart1995 the techniques are great. I just think that if help was hired in a vacant warehouse, this artist could corner the market on remanufactured parts. People will be able to love their old cars again. Just keep making copies until they stop selling. Then move onto British cars and classic motorbikes. The dream lives on!!
I've done some similar casting of mid-50's Ford transmission shifter position lenses and other plastic parts that are not reproduced. I appreciate your posting of the costs involved! Too many people think this type of project shouldn't be expensive or time consuming. I do what I want for myself, knowing that no one wants to pay what it's worth to make parts that are no longer available. Sad too. I am wondering about your "10-gallon pressure pot" though. I'm guessing you've had that for a long time or found it used. A quick search found nothing that large available, assuming I used the right search words! As many others here have already stated, GREAT VIDEO! 😍😍😎
You are correct, people have no concept how much it really costs to get parts reproduced, especially to the very high standard shown here. Just the silicone and resin are an arm and a leg! Search “10 gallon pressure tank for casting” $500-1200. C.A. Technologies makes a nice unit. I think Eric did find his used.
Thanks for your reply! So many times, on some of the FACEBOOK forums I'm on, I read people complaining about price. It's hard to give them a reality check, and not be a bit sarcastic! 😔 @@getdirecti0ns
If you want a two-tone replica like the original, try casting in the orange color, then mask and coat the red portion with Tamiya Clear Red (or similar). I'd try hitting just the interior first-- sometimes you get really good color refraction (?) that way. Just a thought, anyway. Great video Eric, and as always, I enjoy seeing your process! You truly engineer your molds with precision! ;)
Wow, this guy does such excellent work. These old plastic parts are impossible to get now, and for collector cars is worth it. I could use some new speaker grilles for my 1998 Mercedes, however, $1000 is about half of what the car is worth.
Eric. This was awesome. For many years I've pondered on how to do this. Excellent job. I appreciate your transparency related to cost and sharing your technique. Next level challenge. Custom lenses.
That's a really nice pressure tank. I have three of them, in different lengths. Made by the Pressed Steel Tank Company in the USA at a plant that's been closed and empty (if not completely demolished by now) for a long time. The company still exists but does not make such tanks anymore. A new tank with a removable lid like that would cost at least $2,000. (I got a quote on one a few years ago.) So if you're looking for such a tank, used is the way to go. Using them for pressure casting resin, there's zero chance they'll rupture or break a lid clamp or fail in any way. One of mine has a tag with crazy high specifications. IIRC 150 PSI at 650F. 50 to 60 PSI at room temperature is like nothing to these tanks. I like the 3D printed knobs you put on the bolt heads. I just use a Crescent wrench on mine. Another possibility for surplus, used, or scrap source for a tank for resin casting is a high pressure autoclave. There are low pressure ones that are used up to 20 PSI or so. If they're not rated for a much higher maximum, I wouldn't try it. High pressure ones can go up to 200 PSI or more, while being full of superheated steam. So a used one picked up for scrap value is going to be fine at sub 100 PSI at room temperature. Strip it down to the bare tank and lid, install plugs in all the holes except for one for the regulated air inlet, one for a safety popoff valve, and one for a pressure gauge on the lid or tank wall. All my pressure tanks, the three big ones and eight 2 to 2.5 gallon ones, have a gauge mounted on the lid to directly read the tank pressure. I set the pressure by the gauge on the regulator but I rely on the gauge on the lid to know for certain the pressure in the tank.
Really great video showcasing your replication skillset, and some cool materials in action. To note, the first silicone used is TC-5150 as the video noted, Eric was saying 5051. But Eric using many methods of additive manufacturing here is pretty great.
Wow, they came out beautiful. Great info. I was thinking of maybe having a block off for the orange/amber & poor the two colors separately but you may have bleed through or no structural locking between the two parts. Thanks for sharing.
Excellent work. I watch your videos all the time. Thank you for explaining each step you take. Please.. I would really love to see you do this again and how you would go about getting the two-tone orange/red color like the original. Please keep the videos coming. :)
Came across your channel by chance, and I must say, your content is exceptional! I thoroughly enjoyed the video, especially your comprehensive documentation and explanations throughout the entire process. While I may not have the skills or equipment to attempt this myself, it's always a delight to witness someone else masterfully undertake such a fascinating process and gain insights into its mechanics. Thank you! Subbed!
Fasinating! I think the video was recommended to me as I do watch a lot of “Jag” videos. those parts looked amazing really great work, i never knew that that was even possible!!
@@mglenadeltwo part pour most likely, block off the amber area for the red pour (or cut off the top of red after the pour) after its cured leave the red in place and pour the amber into the remaining space, it should then cure as a joined peice.
Wow this is interesting. I work on a certain car that tail lights are not available for anymore. I asked Hella about reproducing them and they said sure, if you order 1 million pairs!
There is a way you could do it two tone but you have to make two at the same time. Cast them in that orange color and then dipp them in red dye for synthetic clothing. I did that with acrylic glass by accident when coloring nylon SLS prints. Its permanent and grips the plastic really good!
First time seeing your videos, the explanation and the content is great. Only thing I have issues with is my simple mind gets distracted with background music. My best music is the sound of work
When you split the mold you should blow compressed air into the bleed holes to reduce wear on the mold. It will pop open on its own if you blow it out.
I would love to learn to do molds of my own. the boss wants clear, color forms for some of our projects, and the 3D printer in SLA is okay, but it's not CLEAR. it's translucent. I think the only way we could do this would be to make a polished part, and then create a mold of it. Thanks for showing the steps. It's so hard to design a negative space or imagine it.
First off love the outro!! Second those parts came out flawlessly. They don’t make tail light lens for a 98-02 trans am any more, would like to see if that would be a possible project in the future.
That was really good! I’d like it make some for an old 1969 Mitsubishi colt sport I have. It would be great to see you create a multi colour lens… id watch that 🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀😎
Customer says "they don't make them anymore." Well, sure, these are for a 1970's car so they're not made but there's plenty of NOS to be found for Lucas L801 tail lights. A quick search on the internet and I found NOS red/amber for $55 each. I admire the effort to make molds and case replacements, but I'd wager that's a lot more than $110 total.
Another resin print coating option I’ve seen used successfully is to dissolve some pmma (acrylic) in acetone and use that as a dip or paint on your resin prints. The ratio is not super critical, 1-2% by weight is sufficient so 10-20g acrylic in 1000mL of acetone. It’s thinner than shellac and good for not softening really fine details.
I want to do something like this with my headlight assembly in general (housing and lens) since they are hard to find. Think it would be cool to make more lenses, and even a clear one (without reflector moldings) so I can have a go at making a projector lens retrofit. (I say they're hard to find, because I can find the one side that is good, but my driver side is just in need of repair; but it never hurts to have extra lenses and housing in the event of lets say hitting a deer at night) - It's a Mazda Navajo , so I know I can just put an Explorer front end on, but that's not fun to me!
Awesome video thanks for posting. Gonna have to do something similar for my XD Falcon. How would you cast the amber part? Could you precisely trim the silicone mould on the split line then sit the cut silicone in mould box, with cut line butted up to wood. Then pour both red and amber parts, then glue together?
You should have used a clear silicone and designed it for a vertical injection for the red and pour for the orange. You could have used displacement measurements to find the amount in red you would have needed. Then you could inject fill the bottom in red then pour the top in yellow. This allows you to retain factory or do red.
I would (in my limited knowledge) assume you would have to break the original down into two parts mould and cast each then attach the separate cast together
@rogierius epoxy resin glue should do, if you look carefully at the original between the two colours their seams to be an overlap to increase the surface area for glueing
Cut a duplicate in half at the right spot and mill a ledge on the edge. Then cut another in half and make a mating ledge. Then make molds for both. Then you can epoxy them together.
I will never be attempting this but thanks for sharing your impressive skills and knowledge. I’m interested to know how many times the moulds could be used ? If they could be used many times then they are indeed very valuable.Thanks again and regards from England.
Hello Eric, thanks a ton for the video. It's a much nicer way of casting as opposed to my traditional way, i definitely learned a new technique. Now how do we cast dual color tail lights. Like orange and red combinations.
try with varnish? idk if its the correct word for this in germany its "lasur" a tint for taillights and if you buy orange and red you can do it 2 tone and polish it afterwards and dont forget to 2k clearcoat it so its not getting dull but yours looks really good thumbs up
Excellent work: would be interesting to see the part moulded as original with both the amber and red sections.
Definitely more harder
Definitely
@@EricStrebel maybe you can trim off the amber part, put the remaining red in mold again and pour an amber batch of resin?
@@stezz90 yes, in theory that's how something like that would go
@@stezz90 Or try to put a 'barrier' in between the red & amber sections.
A 4 part mold could give you both colors. Use a blocking plate for the red, and then when it sets but before it cures remove the plate, bolt the 2nd cavity set up and pour the amber.
I'm and Industrial designer as well and this video just captivated me, I can feel the passion you have for the trade. Subscribing!
Great video. It is why I look for people like you so that I can just purchase the finished part. The amount of time to produce the mold and the cost of the equipment and supplies you have in your lab easily exceeds $ 10-12 K USD. You will need to sell a lot of these lenses to bring the per part cost down to an affordable retail price. Thanks for showing us the process as I think many people don’t understand the amount of time and energy required to procure the molding equipment. cheers
But how many people out there need taillights for a old Jag?
Who knows!
@@davem5333 Those of us who own old Jags. Cheers
Plenty apparently! 😀
3200 dollars nets you the equipment. 1.2k 3d printer, 1k pressure tank, 200 drill press, 200 vacuum tank and pump, 100 circular saw, 100 warming box, 100 PPE, 100 scanner, 75 resin, 75 resin for mold, 20 wood framing, 15 filament. Getting a perfectly clear part like his will take some trial and error on timings, but his video goes a long way in helping get past the headaches.
Amazing job on his part, but equipment costs you state are to high.
Casting optically clear parts definitely is challenging. Really like your walk through of the process and your intelligent use of 3D printing to support this project. Excellent finished product. Always interesting content, Eric. Thanks for sharing!
I can't believe how much messing about you had to do just for two small parts which most people would see as OEM. Fantastic job, incredible detail you should be well pleased with them and yourself. 👍🏼 I'm now Subscribed to see what other amazing thins you can magic up.
Absolutely fantastic. I had no idea you could do this 'at home'. Simply remarkable outcome, and I am glad you portrayed the cost as it is, so I would have no illusions to DIY any time soon; but I am storing it away in my mental archive. Thank you.
Well kinda.. it takes a lot of equipment. He mentioned the cost of $2k
You probably could do it with less equipment. But don't expect same result.
I have played at this in a DIY capacity. Vacuum chamber essential in my opinion, a few hundred GBPs from Easy Composites. Don't have a pressure chamber but have got away with it so far (with smaller parts)
This is definitely not a 'do this at home' execution!
I'm sure there is a great way to cut it into parts.
One way, Eric, is to take a table saw or similar, and cut 2 of your castings in half.
The reason why I suggest doing 2 castings, is because the width of the blade takes away some material.
So you could cut off a little less than you need from each half, and shave them down with a sanding machine (one that is stationary), until it is exact.
But you did a really great job!
Looks nice!
:)
Fantastic work. I have never casted clear parts. The difference between small bubbles in an opaque part and Zero bubbles in a good quality transparent part is enormous. A pressure can is on my ToGet list.
It's a must, the right resin helps of course as well
The most readily available pressure tank is the 2.5 gallon one from Harbor Freight. There are some videos out there on setting it up for pressure casting.
I had a pair of Hillman Minx Lenses cast in two colours Red and Amber. They came out perfect like these . Only cost me $250.00 "Classic Plastic" was the man. Sadly he's retired now.
That's a more realistic price, I went solid Amber for mine
Another fantastic work. Something makes me think that this wouldn't be quite possible anywhere else than the US. I mean to have your home workshop and all the needed tools and material to produce this kind of result. Finding even the most non-ubiquitous materials and tools I think is only possible in the US.
With skills like that, you can say Jag however you wish. Absolutely amazing work.
Thanks
Really well done. I know not exactly cost effective for some parts. But I like that parts can be recreated without buying from the manufacturer
Not sure how I got here, But I'm glad I Stayed Fantastic work from a fellow maker. I now realise I should have studied Industrial design.
Awesome video, Really love the use of 3dprinting to simplify the mold making process. Awesome results too, I couldn't find a flaw if I tried. Its so fortunate your customer was able to provide such nice examples to replicate.
This is sorcery level of craftmanship ! love your work!
Make more of these for plastic or rubber parts, It would be awesome, there is so many people (including myself) that don't find spare parts anymore.
3D printing will revolutionize this market
The end product looks fantastic, the gloss level is amazing. It does look good all red but I live in the UK and we have to have Amber indicators/Turn signals on vehicle past 1965.
Thanks. Correct!
Man that is so impressive and incredible workmanship..
This is my first time watching one of you videos. I don't know what to make of it. The explanation and walk through of your process was great. $2000 for taillights that's insane. I've done rear taillights for my Volvo. The finished product was great but i did mine without a pressure tank. I had to do some extra post work but my cost for materials was only $143. The taillights were gorgeous and i had them on the car till i got rid of it. I'm glad you can make such a substantial profit. Maybe I'm in the wrong business. 😂 Be blessed.
Fred do you have any info you can provide me on your process?
Oh? How much would you charge me to make me a set of tail lights for my car? $150 ish then?
You talk about the cost of materials, he talks about all the cost including his time. And someone has to pay for the pressure chambers and all that. I have no idea if that price is reasonable. But I think it is good that he mentions it. Some companies or enthusiast will pay that money. Lots of private person won't pay it so there is no point in contacting him. Win/win.
I’m pretty sure that somewhere in the comments somebody had said this before. Making a slight modification in your mold where the air vent is at the very top of the tail light mold, you can use two large syringes for two tone lenses. Red one at the bottom and the orange one at the top. You will inject the red fluid and then vacuum process the mold with the red fluid being up to the level of the adjoining orange fluid. The red fluid has hardened enough in the mold before adding the orange fluid with the vent all the way at the top. Now inject the orange fluid until the orange fluid comes out the top vent. Vacuum chamber process the whole thing a second time. Remove both syringes from the mold, and then crack open the mold. You might have to saw off the syringes first. Then grind any remaining material at the very top of the lens. Red gets injected from the bottom of the red region. Orange gets injected from the bottom of the orange region. The vent is at the top. The mold is oriented vertically. This is a two-step vacuum chamber process. I am sure that you can do this a third time with a Clear lens in the middle of one or both of the colors. You would just have to use a modified mold To inject in the clear fluid and vacuum chamber that new material. So for three colors, you will use two different molds and three vacuum stages. You will corner the market in MG, Mercedes, and other exotic classic parts that are impossible to find for hobbyists and college students alike. Give it a whirl. Get rich? Send me some. Make three color lenses in any shape. Guess how much a Mercedes 190B tail light costs. You probably already figured this out. Gravity and orientation during degassing is the challenge.
The solid red was per the client's request, though
@@Lennart1995 the techniques are great. I just think that if help was hired in a vacant warehouse, this artist could corner the market on remanufactured parts. People will be able to love their old cars again. Just keep making copies until they stop selling. Then move onto British cars and classic motorbikes. The dream lives on!!
I've done some similar casting of mid-50's Ford transmission shifter position lenses and other plastic parts that are not reproduced. I appreciate your posting of the costs involved! Too many people think this type of project shouldn't be expensive or time consuming. I do what I want for myself, knowing that no one wants to pay what it's worth to make parts that are no longer available. Sad too. I am wondering about your "10-gallon pressure pot" though. I'm guessing you've had that for a long time or found it used. A quick search found nothing that large available, assuming I used the right search words! As many others here have already stated, GREAT VIDEO! 😍😍😎
You are correct, people have no concept how much it really costs to get parts reproduced, especially to the very high standard shown here. Just the silicone and resin are an arm and a leg! Search “10 gallon pressure tank for casting” $500-1200. C.A. Technologies makes a nice unit. I think Eric did find his used.
Thanks for your reply! So many times, on some of the FACEBOOK forums I'm on, I read people complaining about price. It's hard to give them a reality check, and not be a bit sarcastic! 😔 @@getdirecti0ns
Takes time and resources to make something quality
Impressive from the first 30 seconds of this video!!
You raised the bar quite a bit, one of the best videos so far, in my opinion.
Thanks
Please, Please, Please, MORE videos like this!! I've been following you for a long time now, but this was the video that made me extremely excited.!!
If you want a two-tone replica like the original, try casting in the orange color, then mask and coat the red portion with Tamiya Clear Red (or similar). I'd try hitting just the interior first-- sometimes you get really good color refraction (?) that way. Just a thought, anyway. Great video Eric, and as always, I enjoy seeing your process! You truly engineer your molds with precision! ;)
Wow, this guy does such excellent work. These old plastic parts are impossible to get now, and for collector cars is worth it. I could use some new speaker grilles for my 1998 Mercedes, however, $1000 is about half of what the car is worth.
$1000 to $2000 Yikes
easier to find a replacement part in Europe
Search internationally you may get it cheaper in another country...maybe with shipping too
those are also 1 colored and made out of resin which is worse then pressure casted plastic. $1000 is insane price even for 2 days of work.
Eric. This was awesome. For many years I've pondered on how to do this. Excellent job. I appreciate your transparency related to cost and sharing your technique.
Next level challenge. Custom lenses.
Enjoyed the video. Excellent process. And i like that you would charge a realistic value to cover your costs and make some profit.
That's a really nice pressure tank. I have three of them, in different lengths. Made by the Pressed Steel Tank Company in the USA at a plant that's been closed and empty (if not completely demolished by now) for a long time. The company still exists but does not make such tanks anymore. A new tank with a removable lid like that would cost at least $2,000. (I got a quote on one a few years ago.) So if you're looking for such a tank, used is the way to go. Using them for pressure casting resin, there's zero chance they'll rupture or break a lid clamp or fail in any way. One of mine has a tag with crazy high specifications. IIRC 150 PSI at 650F. 50 to 60 PSI at room temperature is like nothing to these tanks.
I like the 3D printed knobs you put on the bolt heads. I just use a Crescent wrench on mine.
Another possibility for surplus, used, or scrap source for a tank for resin casting is a high pressure autoclave. There are low pressure ones that are used up to 20 PSI or so. If they're not rated for a much higher maximum, I wouldn't try it. High pressure ones can go up to 200 PSI or more, while being full of superheated steam. So a used one picked up for scrap value is going to be fine at sub 100 PSI at room temperature. Strip it down to the bare tank and lid, install plugs in all the holes except for one for the regulated air inlet, one for a safety popoff valve, and one for a pressure gauge on the lid or tank wall. All my pressure tanks, the three big ones and eight 2 to 2.5 gallon ones, have a gauge mounted on the lid to directly read the tank pressure. I set the pressure by the gauge on the regulator but I rely on the gauge on the lid to know for certain the pressure in the tank.
impressive, looks retail and I really salute that you mention price.
Nice work I can do a split color resin light I've done it years back took me a lot of tries to get it done right
Really great video showcasing your replication skillset, and some cool materials in action. To note, the first silicone used is TC-5150 as the video noted, Eric was saying 5051. But Eric using many methods of additive manufacturing here is pretty great.
Apologies about misspeaking, but the text is correct in the video when the product is used. Very nice materials that I liked using.
This is what I have been dreaming about since I was a child & now its here....Liked:)
Wow, they came out beautiful. Great info. I was thinking of maybe having a block off for the orange/amber & poor the two colors separately but you may have bleed through or no structural locking between the two parts. Thanks for sharing.
This is totally cool. The tail lights on my Barchetta are starting to fade. Your project is something to think about.
1:36 the scanned photo is actually really nice
Absolutely Stunning Results - 👍👍😎👍👍 Thanks Eric for the glimpse of what is possible.
Wow! Great detail for incredible results! Glad to have found super talented, intelligence and knowledgeable producer of valuable videos.
Thanks
Quedo brutalmente bien.
Felicidades.
Saludos
Excellent work. I watch your videos all the time. Thank you for explaining each step you take.
Please.. I would really love to see you do this again and how you would go about getting the two-tone orange/red color like the original.
Please keep the videos coming. :)
Came across your channel by chance, and I must say, your content is exceptional! I thoroughly enjoyed the video, especially your comprehensive documentation and explanations throughout the entire process. While I may not have the skills or equipment to attempt this myself, it's always a delight to witness someone else masterfully undertake such a fascinating process and gain insights into its mechanics. Thank you! Subbed!
Fasinating! I think the video was recommended to me as I do watch a lot of “Jag” videos. those parts looked amazing really great work, i never knew that that was even possible!!
It is fascinating to watch this process with a detailed explanation. The end result is absolutely stunning.
For straightening copper wire put it in a drill no joke spinning it up while pulling the single strand it will strengthen up perfectly
I don't really do two part molds but I love the idea behind a splitter board.
would love to see how to make it in 2 colors or more!!
Yeah, in theory, how would you go about making this part in two colors?
@@mglenadeltwo part pour most likely, block off the amber area for the red pour (or cut off the top of red after the pour) after its cured leave the red in place and pour the amber into the remaining space, it should then cure as a joined peice.
@@branbroken yes, but how to build the vents and pour gates, should the mold be oriented differently for each color pour… many questions.
The TH-cam algorithm brought me here, wen5 down the rabbit hole. Glad I did. Really nice video
This is more than molding. This is art!
Is so thrilling to see this level of attention to detail being documented
Amazing process! Looks like quite a hell of an upfront investment cost in materials, machines etc. But what a fantastic result!
Thanks
If u ever decide to do a class i would pay to learn this!!! I am sure there are others too!!! ❤
I did not expect the “customer states” thank you!
😀
I would love to see how you would tackle the 2 tone
my guy, you are very talented at what you do and I will be happy to give you money for your work
Wow this is interesting. I work on a certain car that tail lights are not available for anymore. I asked Hella about reproducing them and they said sure, if you order 1 million pairs!
Sounds about correct
There is a way you could do it two tone but you have to make two at the same time. Cast them in that orange color and then dipp them in red dye for synthetic clothing. I did that with acrylic glass by accident when coloring nylon SLS prints. Its permanent and grips the plastic really good!
Thank you for posting this! I was looking for this information last week and still had some gaps in my knowledge.
That was OUTSTANDING. Such great creativity and talent, and excellent attention to detail. Just loved watching your process!!!
What a great video just loaded with tips, tricks, and how-to's! So you vacuum degas and also use a pressure pot?
Yes
First time seeing your videos, the explanation and the content is great. Only thing I have issues with is my simple mind gets distracted with background music. My best music is the sound of work
end mandolorian guitar is amazing lol good molding and précisions part
I would like to see that piece made with the two tones and how you would divide the mold for it
Yeah, me too, I would like to make a video about that.
When you split the mold you should blow compressed air into the bleed holes to reduce wear on the mold. It will pop open on its own if you blow it out.
I would love to learn to do molds of my own. the boss wants clear, color forms for some of our projects, and the 3D printer in SLA is okay, but it's not CLEAR. it's translucent. I think the only way we could do this would be to make a polished part, and then create a mold of it.
Thanks for showing the steps. It's so hard to design a negative space or imagine it.
Your welcome
your channel is criminally undersubscribed!
Beautiful work as usual!
I'm gonna take your recommendation on the BJB products for experimenting some smoked tail light lenses !
Good luck
Thanks for the video. Now I know for sure I will never try anything like that at home. There is a lot more involved than what I expected.
First off love the outro!! Second those parts came out flawlessly. They don’t make tail light lens for a 98-02 trans am any more, would like to see if that would be a possible project in the future.
Sure, just a matter of time and money.
I've cast many things and used many teqniques similar to yours, I can say nice work and great attention to detail..
Thanks
They turned out fantastic! Well done!!
That was really good!
I’d like it make some for an old 1969 Mitsubishi colt sport I have.
It would be great to see you create a multi colour lens… id watch that
🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀😎
Perhaps that will happen someday
Cool, nice work, I made some custom taillights for my MG Midget.
Love this. You could make some serious dough remanufacturing classic parts.
Impressive. Saving this video for future business reference.
Customer says "they don't make them anymore." Well, sure, these are for a 1970's car so they're not made but there's plenty of NOS to be found for Lucas L801 tail lights. A quick search on the internet and I found NOS red/amber for $55 each. I admire the effort to make molds and case replacements, but I'd wager that's a lot more than $110 total.
JUST WOW. Incredible glossy finish! but I wonder HOW would you make the "2-tone Yellow-Red" version, just like the OEM? How's that done?
Very nice, i really can appreciate knowledge like this and experience. It looks so satisfying to be able to make things like this 😊
Smart idea with the shellac on the resin printed bits. Most UV resins for printers have sulfer in them.
Can't be to safe if your gonna invest that much time into a project.
Another resin print coating option I’ve seen used successfully is to dissolve some pmma (acrylic) in acetone and use that as a dip or paint on your resin prints. The ratio is not super critical, 1-2% by weight is sufficient so 10-20g acrylic in 1000mL of acetone. It’s thinner than shellac and good for not softening really fine details.
I want to do something like this with my headlight assembly in general (housing and lens) since they are hard to find. Think it would be cool to make more lenses, and even a clear one (without reflector moldings) so I can have a go at making a projector lens retrofit. (I say they're hard to find, because I can find the one side that is good, but my driver side is just in need of repair; but it never hurts to have extra lenses and housing in the event of lets say hitting a deer at night) - It's a Mazda Navajo , so I know I can just put an Explorer front end on, but that's not fun to me!
Awesome video thanks for posting. Gonna have to do something similar for my XD Falcon. How would you cast the amber part? Could you precisely trim the silicone mould on the split line then sit the cut silicone in mould box, with cut line butted up to wood. Then pour both red and amber parts, then glue together?
You would have and extra mold half to cast one of the parts then swap half's to cast the other color
Awesome video, I really enjoyed watching it. The result is stunning!
Thanks
This was so satisfying to watch. Great content. I love learning new things.
Fascinating. So much work but what an amazing result. Thanks for sharing.
Absolutely loved your presentation and insights into the product design. Challenging and excellent work, thanks for sharing it !
Fantastic!! can't believe that supreme quality
They look fantastic, but I’m curious about how they’ll hold up after a few years in the sun.
wonderful video showing your techniques. Could you share how you would go about doing a 2 tone yellow red split?
This is a good point. Anywhere outside the US a single colour tail light is probably illegal. Honestly, I don't know why they're legal in the US tbh.
Fantastic craftmanship :) really enjoyed this video :) Can those molds in the end be used again many times?
About 30 times
Very, very nice project. They came out perfect. Thank you.
You should have used a clear silicone and designed it for a vertical injection for the red and pour for the orange. You could have used displacement measurements to find the amount in red you would have needed. Then you could inject fill the bottom in red then pour the top in yellow. This allows you to retain factory or do red.
Loooks like I be needing to send you several parts to re-produce ;)
Marvellous. This video was very entertaining and educational. Thanks!
i'm curious how you could make it two-toned like the original
I would (in my limited knowledge) assume you would have to break the original down into two parts mould and cast each then attach the separate cast together
Correct
@@beni446 I wonder how you would take in the account structural integrity when joining these two. I assume glueing will not do the trick,
@rogierius epoxy resin glue should do, if you look carefully at the original between the two colours their seams to be an overlap to increase the surface area for glueing
@@beni446Perhaps you can break the reproduction, now that you have it :) And then recast the whole thing one over preserving the originals.
I loved this. Beautiful parts. Is the use of the super glue non destructive to the original.
They're so little of it used that it can be removed with a little bit of effort
Very nice work - engineering meets art!
Cut a duplicate in half at the right spot and mill a ledge on the edge. Then cut another in half and make a mating ledge. Then make molds for both. Then you can epoxy them together.
I will never be attempting this but thanks for sharing your impressive skills and knowledge. I’m interested to know how many times the moulds could be used ? If they could be used many times then they are indeed very valuable.Thanks again and regards from England.
About 30 times
Hello Eric, thanks a ton for the video. It's a much nicer way of casting as opposed to my traditional way, i definitely learned a new technique. Now how do we cast dual color tail lights. Like orange and red combinations.
Yeah, so I'm three videos in and it's an easy sub. Fun channel!
try with varnish?
idk if its the correct word for this
in germany its "lasur" a tint for taillights
and if you buy orange and red you can do it 2 tone and polish it afterwards
and dont forget to 2k clearcoat it so its not getting dull
but yours looks really good thumbs up
Thanks