Experience is his key to doing the impossible. I am beginning to envy this guy. Can do everything that needs restorations on those parts not purchasable even on ebay. Astonishing work !
Wow. Excellent mold sketches and execution. I hadn't heard of the overlap gates and vents before. The gravity feed J channel too! Those will all be game changers for my casting! Thanks so much for the detailed and well explained demonstration!
One of your best mold videos so far! That thin, transparent part was a serious challenge. If you can make those look nice, you are qualified to make anything.
Great video. Nice clear explanation of how the molding process works, and using the dye to show how the mold filled up was clever. Interesting to see one of these old desks being refurbished. I'm glad that there is now a restoration cottage industry for this gear. I worked at the BBC TV Studios in London through the 70s, and Neve was the standard for the larger studios. They were already in radio, particularly for stereo. Later they started buying from Calrec and others who basically made clones of the Neve desks with cheaper parts! The faders were the most expensive thing in the Neve's. And the correct pronunciation is "Neev" not "Neevee"! Glad you caught that later in the video.
Peter Teal Great, glad you liked it. Leave me some feedback about why you liked it. I am curious to know. Also, don't forget to check out my Kickstarter campaign for the "Alfred" Backpack hanger kck.st/2Yi2Qnd thanks for your comment and support much appreciated.
DIY3DTECH.com Thanks! Don't know anything about that market, feel free to share with my users. Don't forget to check out my Kick starter campaign for the "Alfred" Backpack hanger kck.st/2Yi2Qnd
@@EricStrebel Are you talking about on my channel page? Go to your channel page, click customize, click the pencil in the upper right corner, click edit links. I believe you can have up to three links. Also believe your in Michigan? I am up in the Blue Water area, maybe we could get together for a coffee sometime, sent you a linkedIn invite also (I am the gray haired guy :-) In addition, I know its a ways off however on 06/17/2019 will release a "Design Talk" episode where I take some things I learned from your channel make something! (I queue videos as I travel internationally for business)...
@@EricStrebel Hmm, replied once but YT didn't seem to like that. If your talking about the Channel page, you click on concustomize, then the pencil in the upper right corner and then, click edit links. If I recall correct it allows you three links. Also if I understand it correctly your in Michigan? I am up in the Blue Water area and if your not too far would be great to grab a coffee as I am impressed by your work (also sent you a LinkedIn Invite too). By the way keep an eye out as on 06/17 I have a "design talk" video coming talking about what I learned from your channel and using it in a project! (since I travel internationally I queue up videos.)
DIY3DTECH.com Actually, right here in the community section of the comments in the Creator studio classic version, I see a little logo "Instagram" next to your channel name. I have never seen that before on any comment. I was wondering how that is accomplished, not sure if it is tied into the channel page some how or where that is set, might be the same or it might be totally different.
Mark Koons Glad you enjoyed it, Don't forget to check out my Kickstarter campaign for the "Alfred" Backpack hanger kck.st/2Yi2Qnd thanks for your comment and support much appreciated.
An idea which has hit me before when it comes to casting on this channel and other shows, and again watching this: Some technique/tools which minimizes or eliminates working in bubbles into a two-part resin mix looks like it would be useful. Thinking out loud here and YMMV as to the viscosity of the resin, but one idea is having the mixing container resting at a 45 degree angle on some contraption which rotates it as you mix, the other is a long magnetic stirbar and stirrer (almost as long as the inside diameter of the bottom of the mixing container. Thanks for another cool video, BTW :)
Teukka72 Thicker resins usually trap more air in the mixing process, no doubt about that, but they are not always harder to degassing, depends on the raw materials used.
This is basically the video I was looking for lol! I'm thinking about trying to cast custom color keycaps and stems for an IBM Model M keyboard because I want relegendables and it's a fun challenge. I think the hardest part is going to be the stem with it's angled spring perch on the inside.
Great video. I have a question: I don't have a vacuum pot, do you think a vacuum cleaner has enough vacuum to pull? I would attach it to a jam jar of some sorts. Thanks.
laconeccionvideo Don't forget to check out my Kickstarter campaign for the "Alfred" Backpack hanger kck.st/2Yi2Qnd thanks for your comment and support much appreciated. Cheers!
Not a huge fan of vaseline as a silicone release, I don't like how much it alters the surface texture. My favorite is 50/50 mix of 99%IPA and dish soap. Thin, solvent flashes off fast, and easy to clean off the part.
@@risunokairu LOL, you could try it! but isopropyl alcohol will work better....that was funny 😂 Don't forget to check out my Kickstarter campaign for the "Alfred" Backpack hanger kck.st/2Yi2Qnd thanks for your comment and support much appreciated.
Well, I just discovered that crystal clear polyurethane exists! What is the most important difference must to be known compared with classic epoxy resin?
MadLabGadgets I do :-) you can watch the video here th-cam.com/video/ATBHT9KqYQY/w-d-xo.html Don't forget to check out my Kick starter campaign for the "Alfred" Backpack hanger kck.st/2Yi2Qnd
Good video on making the VU Meter Bezel covers,wiith the vent holes for the air,and just snap of the part. so did you get the right hardener for the translucent silicone, and would you use it again,Thanks
Great video, absolutely neat execution of the job, my compliments. I am moulding with silicone and resin mid-sized parts as classic car spares, never up to your quality level though. Do you think a cristal clear part like a front headlight’s glass replacement can be feasible? Thickness of the part is around 10mm and size about 260x160x25 mm, a slim cave box shape. Thanks!
Awesome video. I'm in the middle of a casting nightmare and this has been super enlightening. Filling from a runner leading to the bottom is the key I was missing!! If you can reply with affiliate links for the following I'll be very happy to use them... -The silicone that ended up working for you -The clear part polyurethane product -The final buffing compound and the buffing brush that you used. Do you use a different brush for each grade of buffing compound? -The pressure/vac gauge you use on your pressure pot -The heater pad and timer setup for your pressure pot. Where did you run the wires through? I have the Harbor Freight PP and seriously doubt it has much of a factor of safety built in. Maybe sealing wires into a T on the port inlet would work. Why don't you use a commercial mold release vs the vaseline/naphtha? Cheaper and it works just as well? What ratio of vaseline/naphtha do you use? Is there just one concentration or grade of naphtha or are there different types to choose from. Thanks a million. This video could not have come at a better time. I've watched hours of Punished Props, SmoothOn, BJB and others but this was the most enlightening. If there's anything I can do to help promote your channel or services on the Shop Hacks Facebook group just let me know. We get about 12,000 unique visitors per day so it may be enough to drive some traffic or business your way. Anything that I can pitch in a way that helps people improve their workshop experience is game. I love to support content creators. I especially appreciate the skill sets you share. Thanks again.
Shop Hacks assume this is Tony? Checked out your site, very nice! great resource for people getting started with a shop or even for old timers and upgrades. www.shophacks.com I am going to take you up on your offer to help me. I need help promoting my current Kickstarter project the "Alfred" Backpack hanger kck.st/2Yi2Qnd any promoting on Social media would be greatly appreciated. You scratch my back I will scratch yours. I will answer your questions the best I can. -Silicone was from Silicone INC. out of South Carolina, check your region for your distributor. -Resin was from Simple Resin, they sponsored the VID and the link is in the description of the vid. Any good clear UV stable eating resin should work. simpleresin.com -I bought that buffing wheel at my local production tool supply probably, that have industrial equipment, you probably have a place like that locally. Only used one buffing wheel, start with the corse and work your way up to fine. -The pressure gauge I got on ebay and I purchased it because it had a temperature gauge on if so that I could monitor the temp in the tank. Was used and probably came from some sort of a boiler. -The hearting element in the pressure tank is a vintage coffee pot hot plate, it has a rotary dial. It all runs on a digital push switch that allows me to select 1,2,4 and 8 hours of heat. Also got that on ebay. -Wire, runs through the exhaust port brought a "T" :-) I will be building a new tank in the near future, look for that video soon. -Release agent needed to be applied very carefully in this instance. It's just what I use, it's and old school thing. I think the ratio is 60/40 naphtha/petroleum jelly, you can mix to whatever you want to your application. I think there is only one kind of Naphtha...not sure though. If you have more questions reach out via email. If you can promote the TH-cam channel as well that would be great. But right now I need help with traffic to the Kickstarter campaign! Thanks
Thanks@@EricStrebel . I have to limit the Shop Hacks FB group posts to things that are shop related but maybe I can post one of your backpack hanger videos as an introduction to sheet metal fabrication. I think that would fit. I'm also going to post this video since it's one of the best I've seen for casting resin. Thanks for the feedback. I'll check out your website. I'm good at engineerig development but not so good at industrial design or aesthetics so I might be able to use your services at some point. Thanks again
@@EricStrebel I use a quite a bit simpler method of heating my pressure tanks. Sprayed the outside with flat black paint and set them out in the sun. In cold weather I shine a halogen worklamp on the tank from about 2 feet away.
Sometimes I get parts that have seen better days and require quite a bit of filler and hi-build primer before the molding process. I typically lacquer these parts as a final step as I had problems with cure inhibition using platinum silicones when using things like duratec surfacing primer (Although that is a great product). What is your preferred products/methods for finishing masters that cannot just be polished out? In the demonstration in this video the master required only polishing which is great, I wish my parts did not require major steps to prep for molding but, I would love to see how you handle a detailed part that requires a bit of fixing before molding. Great Videos! Thanks
I like to use a two part urethane clear coat for such things, dries hard and can be sanded and polished to a mirror like finish. Not cheap, but works very very well.
@@EricStrebel here's a trick for working with plastic that the surface is chalky and crumbling. Put on a pair of nitrile gloves. Rip a chunk off an old cotton T-Shirt. Get some thin cyanoacrylate glue. Definitely not any thick or gel type. Drip some glue onto the surface then quickly rub the glue in with the cloth. Don't let the cloth stick to the item. Repeat, using a clean spot of the cloth each time, until the entire item is covered. Let sit until the glue dries then repeat the glue application. Now you can sand, primer etc with less worry about the item breaking while working with it. One item I used this on was an Alfa Romeo 2600 Sprint dome lamp lens. (Also used on all the large Iso cars and a few Ferarri models.) The original was *extremely fragile* even after using super glue to consolidate it. It took a lot of priming and sanding and spot putty before it was ready for the lacquer coats. Ultimately the original didn't survive but the person who sent it to me didn't care. He was happy to get new lenses that will likely outlast the rest of the car.
Really nice work Eric, you're making something difficult look easy again. Could you give us a rough breakdown on cost for doing something like this? Being that you're making Neve parts I don't expect it's a low cost endeavor.
@@EricStrebel put a hole through the base support and bottom of the mold box to vent the inside of any hollow master / original when vacuum or pressure casting a silicone mold on it. That way the pressure or vacuum (If thou say "vacuum pressure" I shall glare at thee very sternly.) is equal on all sides so it can't collapse.
Not worth buffing out in my opinion, defeats the purpose of having a mold and all the work that was done, i't also impossible to buff out the concave side
How much would you charge to make such as this item that you produced on this video? I'm trying to have some old school Schwinn dual head light lenses made.
I am replicating clear parts for model cars, but I am still struggling with tiny air bubbles. My vaacum tank goes to 32 psi, see yours go to 60, maybe thats why.
This is really quite awesome. I've recently tried something similar with clear epoxy but it ended up soft and bendy. This looks very rigid. What epoxy are you using please and do you ever have issues with bendy epoxy?
Huge fan of the stuff you do, I have learned a lot from you. Quick question though... so does the meter cover get a slight tilt in the mold to help the air vent at the top when you gravity feed or will the pressure tank take care of that?
you could tip the part in the mold making process, additional you can tip the mold during the resin casting, but in this case as you can see from the time lapse it was not needed, the vent in the top did their job as intended.
I wanna make a phone case and my thing is filling the base and the sides only. I have to figure how to do the opening things... To let the resin flow in. This is tricky
So your saying you can make me my part 🤔🤔 I have an old 1955 fridge and I don't like a plastic cover in it.. the plastic yellowish would love for it to be clear you think you can do it ???
Should've gone with Silicones Inc P60. If the original item has a smooth as glass surface, the mold will. Put a fingerprint on the original, all your castings will have the fingerprint.
very cool What would charge a client for a project like this? Also, would you consider that mold part of the price? (as in does the client own it) Keep up the good work!
you got a chilled voice explaining. focussed on what’s required. please bring more on topics like casting and restoration
Experience is his key to doing the impossible. I am beginning to envy this guy. Can do everything that needs restorations on those parts not purchasable even on ebay. Astonishing work !
Thanks, kind words, much appreciated
Wow. Excellent mold sketches and execution. I hadn't heard of the overlap gates and vents before. The gravity feed J channel too! Those will all be game changers for my casting! Thanks so much for the detailed and well explained demonstration!
Got hooked on casting recently. This channel is a gold mine. Thanks for all the work.
One of your best mold videos so far!
That thin, transparent part was a serious challenge.
If you can make those look nice, you are qualified to make anything.
Holy cow. That was a really satisfying demonstration for the blue casting. I LOVE that you make your mold parts via laser. Brilliant!
Great video. Nice clear explanation of how the molding process works, and using the dye to show how the mold filled up was clever. Interesting to see one of these old desks being refurbished.
I'm glad that there is now a restoration cottage industry for this gear. I worked at the BBC TV Studios in London through the 70s, and Neve was the standard for the larger studios. They were already in radio, particularly for stereo. Later they started buying from Calrec and others who basically made clones of the Neve desks with cheaper parts! The faders were the most expensive thing in the Neve's.
And the correct pronunciation is "Neev" not "Neevee"! Glad you caught that later in the video.
Fascinating stuff! Thank you very much for making the video and sharing your magic!
That work was phenomenal, fantastic quality
Thanks
Really nice touch on the box !
Thank you! I appreciate your comment thanks for leaving one 😀
Excellent tutorial, especially for a difficult piece.
Your welcome
Awesome video! Satisfying demonstration.
They turned out great
Excellent work!
Man, beautiful work.
This is amazing, excellent work!
Thanks
This is my favorite video from your channel so far. Thanks for sharing!
Peter Teal Great, glad you liked it. Leave me some feedback about why you liked it. I am curious to know. Also, don't forget to check out my Kickstarter campaign for the "Alfred" Backpack hanger kck.st/2Yi2Qnd thanks for your comment and support much appreciated.
Most useful film on you tube. Thank you!
Nice work! Big need for this in the reel to reel restoration market....
DIY3DTECH.com Thanks! Don't know anything about that market, feel free to share with my users. Don't forget to check out my Kick starter campaign for the "Alfred" Backpack hanger kck.st/2Yi2Qnd
DIY3DTECH.com BTW, how do you get that clickable link after you subscriber count to your instagram account?? I have never seen that before....?!
@@EricStrebel Are you talking about on my channel page? Go to your channel page, click customize, click the pencil in the upper right corner, click edit links. I believe you can have up to three links. Also believe your in Michigan? I am up in the Blue Water area, maybe we could get together for a coffee sometime, sent you a linkedIn invite also (I am the gray haired guy :-) In addition, I know its a ways off however on 06/17/2019 will release a "Design Talk" episode where I take some things I learned from your channel make something! (I queue videos as I travel internationally for business)...
@@EricStrebel Hmm, replied once but YT didn't seem to like that. If your talking about the Channel page, you click on concustomize, then the pencil in the upper right corner and then, click edit links. If I recall correct it allows you three links. Also if I understand it correctly your in Michigan? I am up in the Blue Water area and if your not too far would be great to grab a coffee as I am impressed by your work (also sent you a LinkedIn Invite too). By the way keep an eye out as on 06/17 I have a "design talk" video coming talking about what I learned from your channel and using it in a project! (since I travel internationally I queue up videos.)
DIY3DTECH.com Actually, right here in the community section of the comments in the Creator studio classic version, I see a little logo "Instagram" next to your channel name. I have never seen that before on any comment. I was wondering how that is accomplished, not sure if it is tied into the channel page some how or where that is set, might be the same or it might be totally different.
Every video is a great source of valuable informations. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Perfection!
All new to me. Thanks for sharing.
Mark Koons Glad you enjoyed it, Don't forget to check out my Kickstarter campaign for the "Alfred" Backpack hanger kck.st/2Yi2Qnd thanks for your comment and support much appreciated.
Masterful as always.
Awesome video
An idea which has hit me before when it comes to casting on this channel and other shows, and again watching this:
Some technique/tools which minimizes or eliminates working in bubbles into a two-part resin mix looks like it would be useful.
Thinking out loud here and YMMV as to the viscosity of the resin, but one idea is having the mixing container resting at a 45 degree angle on some contraption which rotates it as you mix, the other is a long magnetic stirbar and stirrer (almost as long as the inside diameter of the bottom of the mixing container.
Thanks for another cool video, BTW :)
Teukka72 Thicker resins usually trap more air in the mixing process, no doubt about that, but they are not always harder to degassing, depends on the raw materials used.
This is basically the video I was looking for lol! I'm thinking about trying to cast custom color keycaps and stems for an IBM Model M keyboard because I want relegendables and it's a fun challenge. I think the hardest part is going to be the stem with it's angled spring perch on the inside.
love your channel
Ah, good old NOVUS 123. Been using the same set of bottles for probably 20 years now. That stuff goes a LONG way when you're working on smalls. LOL
Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
No problem, I enjoy doing that. Check out my backpack hanger on Kickstarter kck.st/2Yi2Qnd enjoy
Thank you for sharing, Maestro!
Very cool. Nice work.
Great video. I have a question: I don't have a vacuum pot, do you think a vacuum cleaner has enough vacuum to pull? I would attach it to a jam jar of some sorts. Thanks.
Nope
Great! using vacuum and gravity. For my VU meters :D
laconeccionvideo Don't forget to check out my Kickstarter campaign for the "Alfred" Backpack hanger kck.st/2Yi2Qnd thanks for your comment and support much appreciated. Cheers!
Not a huge fan of vaseline as a silicone release, I don't like how much it alters the surface texture. My favorite is 50/50 mix of 99%IPA and dish soap. Thin, solvent flashes off fast, and easy to clean off the part.
Andyfilms not familiar with that mixture. Good to know. Thanks for the tip.
Lovely, thanks for the recipe!
India pale ale?
@@risunokairu LOL, you could try it! but isopropyl alcohol will work better....that was funny 😂 Don't forget to check out my Kickstarter campaign for the "Alfred" Backpack hanger kck.st/2Yi2Qnd thanks for your comment and support much appreciated.
beautifull Job
can you use vasoline and naptha for mold release for epoxy
I would assume you could, but you should try
What’s the glue you used at 3:21 in the blue bottle please?
Thickened Acrylic cement
Great video. Parts turned out great! Thanks for sharing! : )
Wow
this is awesome
Well, I just discovered that crystal clear polyurethane exists! What is the most important difference must to be known compared with classic epoxy resin?
I wish i could do this to one of my parts for my cars
Nice video! I really like your pressure tank with those knobs to seal it. Who makes that?
MadLabGadgets I do :-) you can watch the video here th-cam.com/video/ATBHT9KqYQY/w-d-xo.html
Don't forget to check out my Kick starter campaign for the "Alfred" Backpack hanger kck.st/2Yi2Qnd
Very nice work , and a little extra effort with a nice box Will always help ! :-)
have you ever considered 3d printing (SLA) the mold and skipping the whole silicon mold step ? just curious.
Mike Hjorleifsson sure, I have a few videos that do that, just not the right application for this project.
👌 How did you attached the acrylic part to acrylic sheet if I can know?
Good video on making the VU Meter Bezel covers,wiith the vent holes for the air,and just snap of the part. so did you get the right hardener for the translucent silicone, and would you use it again,Thanks
Yes, got the right hardener, yup, I would use it again.
@@EricStrebel Thanks for the reply
Can I use a vacuum chamber to set the resin in the mold without a pressure chamber?
Amazing !!!
Great video, absolutely neat execution of the job, my compliments. I am moulding with silicone and resin mid-sized parts as classic car spares, never up to your quality level though. Do you think a cristal clear part like a front headlight’s glass replacement can be feasible? Thickness of the part is around 10mm and size about 260x160x25 mm, a slim cave box shape. Thanks!
Yeah, easily doable, you will need a pressure tank to get clear bubble free parts. Use a uv sable resin as well so the parts don't yellow
Am i getting it right, that this piece is practically a hollow square?
Yes
Awesome video. I'm in the middle of a casting nightmare and this has been super enlightening. Filling from a runner leading to the bottom is the key I was missing!!
If you can reply with affiliate links for the following I'll be very happy to use them...
-The silicone that ended up working for you
-The clear part polyurethane product
-The final buffing compound and the buffing brush that you used. Do you use a different brush for each grade of buffing compound?
-The pressure/vac gauge you use on your pressure pot
-The heater pad and timer setup for your pressure pot. Where did you run the wires through? I have the Harbor Freight PP and seriously doubt it has much of a factor of safety built in. Maybe sealing wires into a T on the port inlet would work.
Why don't you use a commercial mold release vs the vaseline/naphtha? Cheaper and it works just as well? What ratio of vaseline/naphtha do you use? Is there just one concentration or grade of naphtha or are there different types to choose from.
Thanks a million. This video could not have come at a better time. I've watched hours of Punished Props, SmoothOn, BJB and others but this was the most enlightening.
If there's anything I can do to help promote your channel or services on the Shop Hacks Facebook group just let me know. We get about 12,000 unique visitors per day so it may be enough to drive some traffic or business your way. Anything that I can pitch in a way that helps people improve their workshop experience is game. I love to support content creators. I especially appreciate the skill sets you share. Thanks again.
Shop Hacks assume this is Tony? Checked out your site, very nice! great resource for people getting started with a shop or even for old timers and upgrades. www.shophacks.com I am going to take you up on your offer to help me. I need help promoting my current Kickstarter project the "Alfred" Backpack hanger kck.st/2Yi2Qnd any promoting on Social media would be greatly appreciated. You scratch my back I will scratch yours. I will answer your questions the best I can.
-Silicone was from Silicone INC. out of South Carolina, check your region for your distributor.
-Resin was from Simple Resin, they sponsored the VID and the link is in the description of the vid. Any good clear UV stable eating resin should work. simpleresin.com
-I bought that buffing wheel at my local production tool supply probably, that have industrial equipment, you probably have a place like that locally. Only used one buffing wheel, start with the corse and work your way up to fine.
-The pressure gauge I got on ebay and I purchased it because it had a temperature gauge on if so that I could monitor the temp in the tank. Was used and probably came from some sort of a boiler.
-The hearting element in the pressure tank is a vintage coffee pot hot plate, it has a rotary dial. It all runs on a digital push switch that allows me to select 1,2,4 and 8 hours of heat. Also got that on ebay.
-Wire, runs through the exhaust port brought a "T" :-) I will be building a new tank in the near future, look for that video soon.
-Release agent needed to be applied very carefully in this instance. It's just what I use, it's and old school thing. I think the ratio is 60/40 naphtha/petroleum jelly, you can mix to whatever you want to your application. I think there is only one kind of Naphtha...not sure though.
If you have more questions reach out via email. If you can promote the TH-cam channel as well that would be great. But right now I need help with traffic to the Kickstarter campaign!
Thanks
Thanks@@EricStrebel . I have to limit the Shop Hacks FB group posts to things that are shop related but maybe I can post one of your backpack hanger videos as an introduction to sheet metal fabrication. I think that would fit. I'm also going to post this video since it's one of the best I've seen for casting resin.
Thanks for the feedback.
I'll check out your website. I'm good at engineerig development but not so good at industrial design or aesthetics so I might be able to use your services at some point.
Thanks again
@@EricStrebel I use a quite a bit simpler method of heating my pressure tanks. Sprayed the outside with flat black paint and set them out in the sun. In cold weather I shine a halogen worklamp on the tank from about 2 feet away.
Sometimes I get parts that have seen better days and require quite a bit of filler and hi-build primer before the molding process. I typically lacquer these parts as a final step as I had problems with cure inhibition using platinum silicones when using things like duratec surfacing primer (Although that is a great product). What is your preferred products/methods for finishing masters that cannot just be polished out? In the demonstration in this video the master required only polishing which is great, I wish my parts did not require major steps to prep for molding but, I would love to see how you handle a detailed part that requires a bit of fixing before molding. Great Videos! Thanks
I like to use a two part urethane clear coat for such things, dries hard and can be sanded and polished to a mirror like finish. Not cheap, but works very very well.
@@EricStrebel Thanks for the response.
@@EricStrebel here's a trick for working with plastic that the surface is chalky and crumbling. Put on a pair of nitrile gloves. Rip a chunk off an old cotton T-Shirt. Get some thin cyanoacrylate glue. Definitely not any thick or gel type. Drip some glue onto the surface then quickly rub the glue in with the cloth. Don't let the cloth stick to the item. Repeat, using a clean spot of the cloth each time, until the entire item is covered. Let sit until the glue dries then repeat the glue application.
Now you can sand, primer etc with less worry about the item breaking while working with it. One item I used this on was an Alfa Romeo 2600 Sprint dome lamp lens. (Also used on all the large Iso cars and a few Ferarri models.) The original was *extremely fragile* even after using super glue to consolidate it. It took a lot of priming and sanding and spot putty before it was ready for the lacquer coats. Ultimately the original didn't survive but the person who sent it to me didn't care. He was happy to get new lenses that will likely outlast the rest of the car.
Really nice work Eric, you're making something difficult look easy again. Could you give us a rough breakdown on cost for doing something like this? Being that you're making Neve parts I don't expect it's a low cost endeavor.
Mfing Strebel!
Super good
Great video - subbed!
Woot woot, thanks, feel free to share with the world on social media. I very much appreciate your comment and support.
Nice job! Is there any reason you couldn't use the vacuum for molds if you don't have a vibrating surface?
Jason Stokes depends on the part your casting, my part was hallow and would have collapsed under vacuum, so it was not an option.
Silly me, should have thought of that. Thanks @@EricStrebel
No worries, thanks for the comment. Don't forget to check out my Kick starter campaign for the "Alfred" Backpack hanger kck.st/2Yi2Qnd Cheers
@@EricStrebel put a hole through the base support and bottom of the mold box to vent the inside of any hollow master / original when vacuum or pressure casting a silicone mold on it. That way the pressure or vacuum (If thou say "vacuum pressure" I shall glare at thee very sternly.) is equal on all sides so it can't collapse.
Hi,what type of resin is best for ball bearing housings so theres less friction? Thanks
Dunno, a very had resin, I guess
How many parts could you cast from that mold before the mold started to become unusable?
15- maybe 25
@@EricStrebel Ah ok. What would you use for something like a pen tube or watch body?
Two different types of projects, but use a quality silicone and take your time to make good molds
@@EricStrebel Nice. Are there types of silicone that make a long-lasting mold? so that you could do more than a dozen, more like hundreds of copies?
Nope, not hundreds
Can I get the same result using a vibrating table when resining?
Probably not with a clear
@@EricStrebel I didn't find to buy a pressurized chamber :/ I intend to clone the acrylic (bezel) of the HIOKI AS-100D multimeter.
I want to prototype (in my home workshop) polyurethane cases for handheld electriconics: 3" x 6" X 1". Is this a suitable method?
Yes
holy crap. amazing.
Can you add color to the casted part
Yes
Is the haze on the platinum silicone just on the surface? Or is it throughout the part? I mean, can it be buffed out?
Not worth buffing out in my opinion, defeats the purpose of having a mold and all the work that was done, i't also impossible to buff out the concave side
Hello Eric, I have some questions regarding polyurethane casting. I want to make a cube with shells. Any guidance will be very helpful. Thank you.
How much would you charge to make such as this item that you produced on this video? I'm trying to have some old school Schwinn dual head light lenses made.
I am replicating clear parts for model cars, but I am still struggling with tiny air bubbles. My vaacum tank goes to 32 psi, see yours go to 60, maybe thats why.
This is really quite awesome. I've recently tried something similar with clear epoxy but it ended up soft and bendy. This looks very rigid. What epoxy are you using please and do you ever have issues with bendy epoxy?
Polyurethane
Huge fan of the stuff you do, I have learned a lot from you. Quick question though... so does the meter cover get a slight tilt in the mold to help the air vent at the top when you gravity feed or will the pressure tank take care of that?
you could tip the part in the mold making process, additional you can tip the mold during the resin casting, but in this case as you can see from the time lapse it was not needed, the vent in the top did their job as intended.
@@EricStrebel Ah, ok. Thank you!
This guy! Wtf dudes awesome
I wanna make a phone case and my thing is filling the base and the sides only. I have to figure how to do the opening things... To let the resin flow in. This is tricky
Hey Eric! Thanks for the amazing video! Question, how many copies can you make with a single mold before it starts degrading?
So your saying you can make me my part 🤔🤔 I have an old 1955 fridge and I don't like a plastic cover in it.. the plastic yellowish would love for it to be clear you think you can do it ???
Sure, I can make it, it's just a mater of timed money.
how do you make a cheap degasser?
I think it would be easy if you had used square glass with drill whole or acrylic piece and then created epoxy side walls.
Should've gone with Silicones Inc P60. If the original item has a smooth as glass surface, the mold will. Put a fingerprint on the original, all your castings will have the fingerprint.
Won't the clear resin start to yellow on later???
Should not it is uv resistant
very cool What would charge a client for a project like this? Also, would you consider that mold part of the price? (as in does the client own it) Keep up the good work!
Which laser are you using?
50W 30x50 unit look for a vid on that very soon
Very nice work, but I believe the word bezel means a surround or frame.
I degas my silicone in the vacuum chamber and then leave it to cure in the pressure pot under 55psi of pressure as extra insurance
You can get mold that have the mumps that way. The air can get trapped and compressed, then expand once it's removed.
@@EricStrebel I haven’t had that issue yet but I only cast small objects (keyboard keycaps) in fairly thick moulds
Ok, best of luck! Tag me on social media and share what you made
Intro song?!
Robert Miles I believe
Jaaayzus, that's one thick silicone resin. I wouldn't be comfortable using it. Maybe that's the "pro" stuff.
Wanna hate ya but I can’t. Thanks for the edu
That’s cool
Nice job, but tooo much work for some plastic cover, holder or sg like this
Heh once you get a laser cutter everything looks like it needs a laser cutter solution.
Christopher Cook Yeah, pretty much, the precision is amounting.