I am 67 years old. The information you are sharing would/should cost a boatload of money. That this information is free to all is simply fantastic! You sir are a very generous individual. I can only imagine what the cost would entail. Thank you from the bottom of my heart! Very few folks would be willing or able to teach/share such a wealth of information. Again, Thank you sir.
+ctxflyer God gave generously my talents freely to me, and in the parable of the talents, Jesus, warned of those who don't use their talents wisely, and what wiser way than to give freely as God gave freely to me, trusting Him to provide all my needs, as he has always done. Besides, there are greater rewards than monetary. Mathew 6:19 "Do not store up for yourselves treasures on earth, where moth and decay destroy, and thieves break in and steal. 20. But store up treasures in heaven, where neither moth nor decay destroys, nor thieves break in and steal. 21. For where your treasure is, there also will your heart be. I reach far more people this way than I could in any classroom.
@@GunBlue490 Sincere thanks Gunblue. There is no one out there that compares, technically, to you. Your presentation indicates that you know really what you are talking about. I've been reloading since 1990, and I still learn much from you. I reconfirm much of my training with you. I listen to your videos over and over as I work around the house or drive in my car. You are a treasure! You reliably verify what I've learned from manuals and online information. Also, many of the marketing tricks and gimmicks that you mention verify my feelings and suspicions. As an example, I now use only mineral oil and mineral spirits on all my firearms (although, like you, I secretly sneak some Hoppes perfume into my mix of chemicals. A sniff of Hoppes takes me back to 1965, on the farm, shooting grackles and sparrows off the back of our sweet herd bull with my beautifully stocked 1950's Harrington and Richardson .22 Your faith and caring for humanity makes you very, very special. You are one of the greatest gifts to us shooters. You are a great man, and you share your stature with all the prominent gun writers in history. Guys like Skelton, Page, Askins, O'Connor, Jordan, Kieth, etc., etc., etc,. You absolutely rank among the best of them without question. I am happily indebted to you. What an honor it would be, to simply buy you a beer!
@@GunBlue490 I am 71 years old, have been reloading since 1970. Thank you for your words of wisdom both in your videos and from the Bible. Both provide wisdom to live by. My father was a watchmaker and I find I take a lot of the attention to detail in my life. Mechanical Engineering in the Semiconductor industry although challenging and interesting does not hold a candle to the satisfaction I get from this endeavor. Thank You so much and be well.
I've Been Reloading for about 10 yrs.and Make sure to pay attention to EVERY word this Man says, You can NEVER know it All ! Thank You for All of your Time Sir, You are a Gem
I’ve been handloading for over thirty years. You can never learn enough. Thank you for these videos. I don’t get the people who like to load “red line”. I load tons of 357’s at 38 special velocities and 44 magnums at 44 special velocities. They’re pleasant to shoot and easy on guns.
This has to be one of the most thoroughly informative channels about need-to-know information on firearms and ammunition on TH-cam. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos.
If it was my decision everyone considering reloading or even shooting would have to watch this video. Perhaps a bit much but I will recommend it to everyone.
Who on earth would possibly give these videos a thumbs down, obviously really stupid people. The information is awesome and I enjoy the presentation too, it's very straightforward and explained in a very thorough manner, like having your Dad or Grandfather teach you the ins and outs. Good stuff, keep them coming.
Thank you again for another fine video. I found another sound mind that explained min vs max powder charges in a way that agreed with what I read. I watched another channel where he tried to explain that 'Max' loading is just wrong from a safety standpoint and shooting as he was seeing this in forums. Powder, Pressure, and velocity are dangerous aspects of reloading. I liked the rattle snake explanation ! Specifically, he was addressing pistol reloading of range brass. He pointed out that for him that the he found that the min load data was always closer to his 'perfected load' than the max load in the published data. His observation was across numerous calibers and handguns. I would say for me I find the 'hand-loading' experimentation of working up loads to be the fun part. Then doing 'reloading' once it is figured out to enjoy my satisfaction. Then start all over trying a different component to see which works better between my old 'best' and the new component.
Great video Thanks. I'm 72 years old and been loading since I was 18. As my Grandfather always said, "learn something new every day." (You get ought for nought was another one of his maxims as well, haha). I always enjoy your videos.
I am sure you have covered this. But, I my head spins when I see all the videos on chasing the lands, jam or free off the lands .010, .020 or whatever! I know you got a view that I old brain can absorb! Thanks for all the great work you do!
Pop, can I call you Pop?.. you are SO Full of common sense it's not even funny..! In this world today when no one seems to have any,.. It just seems to roll right off your tongue... I love it ! The voice of reason in a world gone mad.
Stick to only Manufacturer's Load! Stay off blog's. And when you go to the PDF's of a Manufacturer's recommendation they will require certain question's before you can access like "Are you stupid? Thanks Professor I needed that laugh my ribs are about to crack:) I am amazed at these blogs as well and always come back to you for advice. Proverbs speaks of a man with gray hair has much WISDOM and you Sir are the Calm in the storm when accurate info is needed! God bless!
I want to thank you for your videos sir! The most informative and easy to understand videos I have ever watched. Your and excellent teacher, keep up the great work!
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge with us. I have learned so much from you and I watch and listen to your videos constantly. I have bought some flannel cloth and used mineral oil. I did buy some LSA oil from amazon and use it on my AR rifles. Your advise is perfect. Your information is priceless and has answered many questions of mine. Thank you very much.
I’m new to reloading and this information is just what I needed. I felt like I had a hole in my knowledge. Thank you so much. I’ll continue to lean from you at every opportunity.
Incredible........ I am 75 years old and have been hand loading for three years and find your videos to be inspirational. The topics are on the money and you convey your exceptional knowledge in ways that make it easy, fun and exciting to learn. As an example, I have struggled with interpreting flat primers as a sign of over pressure. In this video you talk about using the rounded radius as a sort of 'go/no-go' clue and that one comment brought the whole issue into focus for me. I put the video on pause, headed for my loading room and examined a number of .223 brass cases that I shot yesterday and low and behold there was no radius. I had known that they were flat but, I was not sure if it was a case of over pressure. Talk about helpful. Thank you so much.
very good information, thank you.. I just started myself, learned some from my Dad, but still alot to learn. I wanna load safe and right and the smart way. Thank you, and God bless you as well.
A way to check for stretch marks in front of the web is to straighten out a paperclip and make a short "L" at the end. Stick the "L" end to the end. Drag the tip of the "L" along the side of the case. You'll feel it if the case is stretched in front of the web and about to get a case head separation, sometimes before it is visible on the outside of the case. Here's a trick I use to minimize case stretching. NOTE; this is based on MY experience and MY .30-06. When I resize, I resize just the neck and don't touch the shoulder. This way, when fired, there is no place where the cartridge case can stretch. Your results may vary. It would seem to me that shooters of belted magnums could use this trick and have their reloads headspace on the shoulder rather than on the belt. For them, it should minimize case stretching. I read anecdotal accounts of people accidentally (NOT RECOMMENDED, DON'T TRY IT) chambering and firing .300 H&H cartridge in a .300 Weatherby chamber and ejecting a fireformed .300 Weatherby case. This can also cause a split cartridge case and a faceful of hot gas and brass fragments. However necksizing a .300 Weatherby case will eliminate the .0002" or .0003" slop and prolong case life by reducing stretching.
Gunblue490 my Mini 14 ranch rifle is stamped 5.56. That says it for me. I purposely purchased this rifle do I would be as be to safely use both 5.56 oe 223 ammo. I have seen so much argument on this subject it drives me crazy . thank you for again ( as I saw your video specific to this topic ) making clear this question. I am completely nes to reloading and am watching your series on the subject. thank you. I respect your teachings and will not make a purchase towards reloading until I first have finished your series and have the proper manuals in hand. thanks again. God bless.
This is by far the best firearms related channel out there. I greatly appreciate you sharing your vast knowledge. I have a question. I had a 300 Weatherby magnum and had a blown primer with Weatherby factory ammo. I tried several other boxes of different ammo after this and would continue to have sticky bolts and extractor marks on the brass. I’m not very familiar with pressure signs. Do you know how this could have happened with 4 different types of factory ammo? I contacted Weatherby and they simply said that there were no reported issues with any of the lot numbers for the ammo, so they did nothing.
I love your vids. I also mic base of case of factory load then work up my loads using pressure signs using a mic measuring base. Primers very alot from makers. I use primers like you state but can catch pressure signs sooner using a mic
I really struggled with trying to get the most velocity when I started reloading, I inflicted a lot of premature wear on a nice Remington 700 mountain rifle in 270. A hard lesson learned. I usually back off 100 FPS off my max loads now. Much softer shooting and much easier on my equipment.
Wow, that was a heck of a video. Thank you. It's interesting, there are all these reloaders who only got into reloading during the 2020 to 2022 ammo panic to try to offset the lack of availability and outrageous prices. They do not care about the details. You are right when you say that reloading is basically not rocket science but one must reload within the established guidelines that will keep a person safe and will not damage their firearm (the former being more important than the latter). So these jokers are adamant that they do not need a reloading manual because the load data is online, and they just pick a powder charge smack dab in the middle of the min and max. They think that is all they need to know. There is no convincing them otherwise. And just like you said, they then share their bad advice with others who subsequently adhere to the bad and dangerous advice and they share it with more lazy reloaders. It's like that old Fabergé shampoo TV commercial from the 70's, "...and they'll tell two friends, and so on, and so on..." Thank you for creating this video. I am going to save it in a list so that I can recommend it to new reloaders when they ask my advice. I always tell people to buy a reloading book, or even just download it in PDF format. And READ. Too many people do not read and treat video like it is the only medium that is necessary to learn. They also seem to forget that 99% of us can read much faster than what we watch or listen to. Before I started reloading, I read my Lee reloading book (always my first recommendation) three times. First time it pretty much went right through me, as I did not understand it or have the equipment yet. Second time started to make more sense. The third time was when I actually had my Lee single stage and some dies and I could actually grasp the material. I've been reloading for around 10 years and I still have a lot to learn. Thankfully I have my reloading books to reference at any time. And to watch the occasional video when I want to as well, like this one.
Excellent points! "working with a thin barreled shotgun, they burst very easily.....there is no such thing as pressure signs with a shotgun" "you could hit maximum below what is listed in the book"...so true...especially if bullet is seated in the rifle lands. Also a load developed at cold environments (I live in Alaska) may show no pressure signs, yet under hot summer conditions may have high pressure. Monolithic bullets will typically have higher pressure, for example in 30 06 a 150 gr Nozler E-Tip has published higher pressure than a 150 gr Nozler Ballistic tip using the same powder charge and same velocity. For precision rifle hand loads, typically I get my lowest variation in muzzle velocity below published max.
Hi Gunblue . Not a reloading question but a factory ammo /gun question. I picked up a late 50s 30-30 winchester last year and love it. However , fired some Rem Core Lokts and was sticky on extraction. Ran some Empty ones from a few months ago through one at a time some sticky some normal easy extraction . So went shooting Fired one wanted to be sticky so cocked hammer fired empty shell extracted perfectly I did this several times same result. Bought some Win Superx came back to shooting spot ran like a champ and then so did the rest of the Remingtons . Cleaned it up last night first couple shots this morning little resistance unlocking , shot Remingtons and Winchester box each today and all ran well. Weird , all factory ammo. I don't reload but keep center fired brass in case I do at some point. Some of Remington a few were very slightly protruding but definitely not flat.
chamber was tiny bit rough. No head space issues. Back in business but wow does that thin barrel get hot from shooting from the bench. Three shots and then she gets a rest -rinse and repeat.
Hey gun blue I love your channel and love the way u present the information. I am a mechanic(very good mechanic ) and I appreciate all cars and they're design . I can tell u have been doing this a long time and have a great appreciate all things ammo/guns. I am new to reloading. I have 60 rifle (223)and 500 pistol (9mm)cartridges loaded and shot . What rifle/cartridge do u recommend I start with to learn the intricacies, but with the Most success accuracy wise. I'm thinking a 22-250 or a 6.5 Grendel . Let me know if I'm way off base.
You can learn with any number of cartridges, but its always nice to have one that can provide great accuracy for your efforts, and a rifle that matches it. Great expense is completely unnecessary. I always prefer bolt action rifles, simply because they are strong, have great leverage, and are the easiest to achieve accuracy. The 22-250 is a wonderful round that works with a lot of bullet weights, and has versatility to be loaded at various power levels.
Adam, I was a light/medium diesel truck mechanic in the army and an automobile mechanic in the 1990's/2000's when I got out. I DON'T, however, appreciate all automotive designs and found some absolutely deplorable like the Mercedes-Benz grille hanging from the hood that once whacked me in the skull and the stupid horn button on the end of the turn-signal arm in a Jaguar Sovereign. The vehicles I appreciate most nowadays are Toyota cars and light trucks. I own a 1995 Corolla DX now and it's a sledgehammer and anvil for reliability just like the 1975 Corolla E-5 five-door wagon my family got new in 1975.
Back in the mid nineties, a range friend of mine had just bought a new Glock in .45 acp. We used to meet there one night a week to shoot. We would shoot each others guns at the range etc. He hadn't shown up for a few weeks and I thought nothing of it. Then one day, I walked in, and there he was talking with the salesman at the gun counter. I asked him where he had been. He said, didn't you hear? His gun show reloads had blown out the bottom of the Glock's chamber. The slide and barrel flew up and hit him in the head between his eyes, breaking his glasses. The frame broke in two on the right side, and the discharge blew the trigger group down into his index finger and hand. His trigger and middle finger, and part of his palm were all wrapped up and healing. He said the trigger and frame pieces mangled his trigger finger when the assy blew out the bottom of the frame. Also, he wasn't sure normal function of his finger would return as he had some nerve damage. He appealed to Glock in an attempt to get them to warranty his pistol, but they declined. That's one reason why I never gift anyone my reloads, and when I load fast powders like 231, bullseye, etc., I'm very wary of my powder charges. I check, then check, then recheck again that I haven't thrown a double charge. Use the book when determining charges, discipline yourself to pay attention when you reload, and know that the headspacing is correct on all of your firearms.
I am researching loads for my .45 Colt using a 250 grain RNFP bullet and using powder that I currently have. I found two, one calls for a OAL of 1.575 and one 1.600 with two different powders. At a seating depth of 1.575 the case mouth is lined up with the crimp groove of the bullet, the 1.600 seating depth leaves the crimp groove high. What affect would seating the bullet to 1.575 have on pressure?
I started reloading about 5 years ago and I use lee dies, I reload for 6 different calibers and I love it but the only issue I ever had was with my Parker Hale 7 mm rem mag on some cases I was getting a ring about 3/8 of an inch from the bottom, and on 2 occasions I had the cases separate now I tried to find out what could I be doing wrong or was the issue with the rifle I wasn't close to max load so I didn't think that was the issue , and I was setting my dies as per lee recommendation. I got all kind of answers from my query's but nothing that helped, but I did find your comment about the dies adjustment causing such problem interesting but since i was setting them as per lee recommendation I'm not sure that alone was the issue , but 2 years ago I invested in neck sizing dies and instead of Full length sizing I neck size I haven't had the problem since. I'm not sure neck sizing resolved the issue but in my case I haven't had any case separation since neck sizing. I do like you videos they provide valuable information keep them coming.
The answer is simple, to a problem that's extremely common. Lee' dies are correct, but it's typical for shoulder length in the chamber to be excessive, due to headspace being determined from the belt. Unscrew your full length die by one and a half turns, and progressively size a case and tighten the die by a quarter turn until the case fits your rifle normally. Use a different case each time, so you don't overwork the brass. When done, go back and resize all. Neck sizing is also extremely good, with the same rifle, especially if with a Lee collet die which will preserve your brass, too.
I have an Spanish Mauser, model of 1893. My copy was made at Oviedo in 1899 as a replacement for a similar rifle that was lost in the Spanish American War in '98. I am told that they were made deliberately with excess headspace because late 19th century brass was made to liberal tolerances. I noticed that primers of factory loads would back halfway out on firing. After a spell in my pocket, the primer would separate completely. On reloading the case, I keep full length resizing to a minimum. On second and subsequent firings, the excess headspace is gone and the primer remains secure.
I find best accuracy is achieved before maximum loads are reached. If you need much faster velocities then use another cartridge. IMR 3031 has served me well for several cartridges. I get the same velocity with IMR 3031 and IMR 4895 in my 35 WCF however it feels like less recoil with IMR 3031. I'm I dreaming this or do others have the same result?
You should have mentioned different LOT NUMBERS of different components, particularly powders and primers. New lot numbers, rework as a new load. When going from standard to Magnum primers for, for example, hunting in Alaska (cold weather), consult the manual, rework as a new load.
Never, never, ever, take a .222 Rem Mag., and a .223 Remington to the range at the same time! It's one of the quickest ways to learn a hard lesson about headspace, and to feel like a very stupid human being! Thankfully, I was alone at the range! Now, I use color coded boxes in addition to the labels to differentiate between the two. Very thankful for the robust Steyr SL action.
Just received my copy of Richard Lee’s Modern Reloading. In the manual they list a overall length. Is that measurement a maximum length or a minimum length? Thanks
Lengths are always minimum. Maximum is limited only by magazine length, minimum allowable seating depth, and/or throat length. The general rule is to seat at least one caliber deep, though there are exceptions.
If anyone could tell what happened with my experience I would greatly appreciate it. At the range I was shooting my smith and wesson model 629 chambered in. 44 magnum when it jammed I couldn't get the cylinder open. I had to take the gun apart. What I found was the primer came out or backed out and jammed. The bullet ever fired.
I'm not sure if I missed it in the video - but could you please explain how a NATO cartridge could have higher pressure, but same muzzle velocity as a standard round? Thanks!
No, it doesn't. The 7.62 NATO may be fired without concern in a .308 Winchester chamber. In fact, as with military loadings of the 30-06 Springfield, civilian loads are loaded to greater velocities and higher pressure than service loads by at least 100 feet per second. 7.62 NATO brass is typically heavier, which reduces powder capacity, so charges should be reduced by at least five percent and worked up with great caution.
I have been reloading since the early 80's, and it has always been about accuracy. In all these years I have only seen 1 rifle that liked over max loads, (flat primer is as far as I would ever try). Having seen several firearms come apart via overpressure, it is a dance I am not willing to do. And to that 1 rifle I meantioned I got rid of it quickly.
Most folks don't realize that an overcharged load will yield less than 1 percent greater velocity. Even at 100 feet per second for a 3,000 fps caliber, that gains less than 20 yards of ballistic advantage, and with such calibers, the standard pressures are already on the roof.
The 45 ACP headspaces on the front of the case and cannot be roll crimped. It requires a firm taper crimp. I prefer to use Lee 4 die set with the factory crimp die that post sizes to exact factory dimensions.
Is it really a big deal to shoot some corrosive ammo in my chrome lined ZPAP? I mean, I think it'll be alright. I got one case of 1240 Yugo M67 cartridges made in 2002 which may have corrosive primers. That is the ammunition that was issued with the M70 rifles.
Saw a video regarding bullet to land measuring. It went as follows. Fit the bullet in a case so it it can move without any force. Then a little loc tite to inside of caase. Put this round in chamber , close the bolt and let it sit for a few minutes. Remove bullet , measure overall length and decide adjustment of .030 or whatever for jump to rifling lands. What is your thoughts on this sir?
Absolutely!! That will destroy your gun, and may kill you!! Gasses may have cut into the firing pin, sharpening it, making matters worse. Do not fire it again before having it checked by the factory, or knowledgeable gunsmith. This is normally a condition caused by cheaply made ammo, which should never be fired, but I had one very high grade rifle that had a firing pin that protruded too far, requiring professional shortening. The latter is a very rare situation. The first is not uncommon with cheap guns and/or ammunition. Even if ammo resolves the problem, you must have the gun inspected before firing it again, as it could be seriously weakened, and certainly the firing pin or spring could be damaged.
mzaboynik They are a magnum small rifle primer that are designed with reduced sensitivity to help prevent unintentional slam fires in military applications. Unless you have a particular concern about slam fires in combat conditions, there's no benefit whatsoever. Lowered sensitivity comes with a price, too. If you desire accuracy, you want increased sensitivity, not decreased. I wouldn't buy them for my ammo, unless others were unavailable. Just use what the loading manuals call for, and keep things simple.
Pay very close attention to what he says about the .223 vs the 5.56. I have a friend who told me they were the same round, and I had to insist very strongly that they are not the same, as the 5.56 is a military round that produces more pressure. I am fortunate that my AR is rated on the barrel to fire both types. Do not fire 5.56 NATO out a rifle rated only for .223. Just like you don't want to fire .30-06 out an M1 Garand.
No sir, Mr. GunBlue490, handloading/reloading is not for idiots who want instant gratification or who hate to read books. You are correct, sir, to state it's not the cup of tea for everybody.
My state this year (2019) requires Non-Lead bullets for all hunting. There's very little information about reloading the Non-Lead bullets. Would this be something you would be interested in, making a reloading video all about the Non-Lead bullets? I sure hope so, because I don't want to damage my rifle let alone myself. Ha. Thank you for your time.
Yes. Calculate the cost of a reloading manual published by laboratory technicians that measure those pressures with advanced pressure measuring systems. Never load without approved, published loading data.
@@GunBlue490 well I have both the lyman manual and the lee manual but I mean as in if I go up or down a few grains how much should I expect the pressure to change. I read both books cover to cover and haven't seen any specific calculations
Using 3 different hypothetical bullet weights 150, 160 and 170 with 160gr as the baseline. The 170gr bullet should use relatively less powder because heavier bullet has higher inertia and takes up more case capacity. So to prevent higher pressure, the powder needs to be reduced. However, what would happen if you were to use the same powder weight for the 150gr as the 160gr? Does it also cause the pressure to spike? This is purely an academic question, in practice I only follow the load specified in the manual....and yes, there is only one God and He loves us.
Your correct about higher inertia. But not case capacity....you can load 150 gr vs 180 gr and they could have a case capacity of 88% 82%. Imagine pushing a marble through a pipe versus a lead ball through a pipe with a handheld rod. As an example, 30 06 with IMR4350 54.0 gr, 150 gr bullet had a published pressure of 47,400 psi while 30 06 with IMR4350 53.0 gr, 180 gr bullet had a published pressure of 48,300 psi
@@RetrieverTrainingAlone still...what would happen if one were to load lighter bullets with heavier bullet data? If case capacity is the same and less inertia, what's the danger? I also have a similar Q but regarding same bullet weight but jacketed vs lead but that's for later.
The .380 has improved greatly with better bullets. It is entirely a self defense or officer's back-up weapon. It's certainly adequate. It's primary usefulness is its compact size, but now that 9mm pistols have arrived with more compact design, they are worth considering, though they will never be as small. Ultra small .380s are very difficult to shoot. But a .380 in you pocket is better than a 9mm you leave home.
I think the only load data I'd take from the web is if it was a direct reference to a book load ... example I see on shotgun world is referencing something from one of the many reloading manuals from BPI or Precision Reloading where the person suggests the page number and the load number and leaves it at that for the person asking for help to purchase said manual and follow the recipe from the manual. you are right that taking actual recipe data from the web is extremely dangerous... you don't know who that person posting the data is or what their motivation is either, they could be deliberately posting hot loads for malicious purposes for all you know.
I have not been reloading very long but I do double check with the powder manufacturers load data and compare to the reloading manuals to make sure. I did a ladder test for my Savage 99C (modern) .308 with some VV-N550. I loaded to the Lee manual (I think). The top loads were tough extraction. Once I checked the V V website it seems the Lee specs were actually higher than the manufacturer's. So definitely look at and compare pressure statistics among the different sources. My suggestion is to use at least three different sources for comparison. Just my two bits worth. Thanks for the knowledge.
Speaking of the primers. I have had one pierced in cheap tula ammo 7.62 x39 in my sks. The force of that gas coming back through, slammed the firing pin to the back of the bolt and physically bent it. Avoid these cheap ammo manufactures as well.
I like your comment. I have been shooting cheap steelcase ammo for 30+ years. I know if you have a problem that damages your firearm within 5 years of using cheap ammo, you may advise against this ammo. As far as center fire ammo goes, I've never had damage to my guns, 30+ years. I will tell you that I have Russian junior 22 rimfire steelcase ammo. 5000 round case. No problems for 15+ years. But the 500 round brick that I just opened, has many misfires, jams, corrosive smoke, and leaning projectiles in case. Two jams produced 2 rounds that the bullets fell out. Thanks.
11! WARNING-AMMUNITION (CARTRIDGES) NOTICE WE SPECIFICALLY DISCLAIM RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE FOR INJURY WHATSOEVER OCCURRING IN CONNECTION WITH, OR AS THE RESULT OF, THE USE IN RUGER FIREARMS OF FAULTY, OR NON-STANDARD, OR “REMANUFACTURED” OR HAND LOADED(RELOADED) AMMUNITION, OR OF CARTRIDGES OTHER THAN THOSE FOR WHICH THE FIREARM WAS ORIGINALLY CHAMBERED.AMMUNITION The RUGER ® MINI-14® RANCH RIFLES are chambered for the .223Remington (5.56mm) cartridge. The Ranch Rifle is designed to use either standardize U.S. military or factory loaded sporting .223 (5.56mm) cartridges manufactured in accordance with U.S. industry practice. See “Ammunition Notice” & “Ammunition Warning”, below. Sir, I copied this off the Ruger website (as you suggested) and I read it that the Ruger Mini 14 Rance can use EITHER standardized U.S. Military or factory loaded sporting .223 (5.56) cartridges. To me it says that this rifle can fire both! Am I reading this incorrectly? I believe what you are trying to say and I have read the owner manual...it says "either" cartridge may be used. What am I misunderstanding? On a similar note...what if an AR platform rifle is using an upper and lower that is chambered for and states "Multi" for cartridges it can fire? Is there latitude there to fire both .223 and 5.56?
Always read the manual. I don't know why that's unclear. I read directly from the manual in the video, where it stated that all .223 or military 5.56mm ammo may be safely used, with the only exception being the .223 Target Model, which is a very rare production gun.
@@GunBlue490 I am totally kidding, this was one of the funniest lines I have seen in your videos, and there are many. And I AM one of those dummies who skipped over the manual before I watched this video. I'll always read the manual... I also love your channel, such amazing information, thanks so much for your wisdom.
I am 67 years old. The information you are sharing would/should cost a boatload of money. That this information is free to all is simply fantastic! You sir are a very generous individual. I can only imagine what the cost would entail. Thank you from the bottom of my heart! Very few folks would be willing or able to teach/share such a wealth of information. Again, Thank you sir.
+ctxflyer God gave generously my talents freely to me, and in the parable of the talents, Jesus, warned of those who don't use their talents wisely, and what wiser way than to give freely as God gave freely to me, trusting Him to provide all my needs, as he has always done. Besides, there are greater rewards than monetary. Mathew 6:19 "Do not store up for yourselves treasures on earth, where moth and decay destroy, and thieves break in and steal. 20. But store up treasures in heaven, where neither moth nor decay destroys, nor thieves break in and steal. 21. For where your treasure is, there also will your heart be. I reach far more people this way than I could in any classroom.
Thanks. I am enjoying these videos most. Peace be with you my brother in CHRIST.
@@GunBlue490
Words to live by right there :)
@@GunBlue490 Sincere thanks Gunblue. There is no one out there that compares, technically, to you. Your presentation indicates that you know really what you are talking about. I've been reloading since 1990, and I still learn much from you. I reconfirm much of my training with you. I listen to your videos over and over as I work around the house or drive in my car. You are a treasure! You reliably verify what I've learned from manuals and online information. Also, many of the marketing tricks and gimmicks that you mention verify my feelings and suspicions. As an example, I now use only mineral oil and mineral spirits on all my firearms (although, like you, I secretly sneak some Hoppes perfume into my mix of chemicals. A sniff of Hoppes takes me back to 1965, on the farm, shooting grackles and sparrows off the back of our sweet herd bull with my beautifully stocked 1950's Harrington and Richardson .22
Your faith and caring for humanity makes you very, very special. You are one of the greatest gifts to us shooters. You are a great man, and you share your stature with all the prominent gun writers in history. Guys like Skelton, Page, Askins, O'Connor, Jordan, Kieth, etc., etc., etc,. You absolutely rank among the best of them without question. I am happily indebted to you.
What an honor it would be, to simply buy you a beer!
@@GunBlue490 I am 71 years old, have been reloading since 1970. Thank you for your words of wisdom both in your videos and from the Bible. Both provide wisdom to live by. My father was a watchmaker and I find I take a lot of the attention to detail in my life. Mechanical Engineering in the Semiconductor industry although challenging and interesting does not hold a candle to the satisfaction I get from this endeavor. Thank You so much and be well.
I've Been Reloading for about 10 yrs.and Make sure to pay attention to EVERY word this Man says, You can NEVER know it All ! Thank You for All of your Time Sir, You are a Gem
I’ve been handloading for over thirty years. You can never learn enough. Thank you for these videos.
I don’t get the people who like to load “red line”. I load tons of 357’s at 38 special velocities and 44 magnums at 44 special velocities. They’re pleasant to shoot and easy on guns.
This has to be one of the most thoroughly informative channels about need-to-know information on firearms and ammunition on TH-cam. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos.
Nah, not one of the best, this is THE BEST! Yet to find as concise,accurate and well presented information in any other single channel.
Yes there is a God and he loves us fact.Thank you sir love all you do.
"If you won't read directions stick with what you buy in a box" That's priceless.!!!!
If it was my decision everyone considering reloading or even shooting would have to watch this video. Perhaps a bit much but I will recommend it to everyone.
Who on earth would possibly give these videos a thumbs down, obviously really stupid people. The information is awesome and I enjoy the presentation too, it's very straightforward and explained in a very thorough manner, like having your Dad or Grandfather teach you the ins and outs. Good stuff, keep them coming.
The analysis provided here should be mandatory viewing for everyone engaged in this activity. Well done!
Thank you again for another fine video.
I found another sound mind that explained min vs max powder charges in a way that agreed with what I read. I watched another channel where he tried to explain that 'Max' loading is just wrong from a safety standpoint and shooting as he was seeing this in forums. Powder, Pressure, and velocity are dangerous aspects of reloading. I liked the rattle snake explanation !
Specifically, he was addressing pistol reloading of range brass. He pointed out that for him that the he found that the min load data was always closer to his 'perfected load' than the max load in the published data. His observation was across numerous calibers and handguns.
I would say for me I find the 'hand-loading' experimentation of working up loads to be the fun part. Then doing 'reloading' once it is figured out to enjoy my satisfaction. Then start all over trying a different component to see which works better between my old 'best' and the new component.
Great video Thanks. I'm 72 years old and been loading since I was 18. As my Grandfather always said, "learn something new every day." (You get ought for nought was another one of his maxims as well, haha). I always enjoy your videos.
Thank you for sharing your information I'm just getting started on reloading and your videos are awesome.
I am sure you have covered this. But, I my head spins when I see all the videos on chasing the lands, jam or free off the lands .010, .020 or whatever! I know you got a view that I old brain can absorb! Thanks for all the great work you do!
Excellent information! My knowledge certainly increased watching this video. I appreciate the visual and audio explanations. What a blessing!
My time was well spent learning from you. Thanks and God bless you as well.
Pop, can I call you Pop?.. you are SO Full of common sense it's not even funny..! In this world today when no one seems to have any,.. It just seems to roll right off your tongue... I love it ! The voice of reason in a world gone mad.
Stick to only Manufacturer's Load! Stay off blog's. And when you go to the PDF's of a Manufacturer's recommendation they will require certain question's before you can access like "Are you stupid? Thanks Professor I needed that laugh my ribs are about to crack:) I am amazed at these blogs as well and always come back to you for advice. Proverbs speaks of a man with gray hair has much WISDOM and you Sir are the Calm in the storm when accurate info is needed! God bless!
Excellent dissertation on this subject.... You truly should write a book on shooting. Thank you so very much !
I want to thank you for your videos sir! The most informative and easy to understand videos I have ever watched. Your and excellent teacher, keep up the great work!
Zach Wittrock
Thank you.
You are a precious source of information. You are a national asset. God bless you and God bless America.
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge with us. I have learned so much from you and I watch and listen to your videos constantly. I have bought some flannel cloth and used mineral oil. I did buy some LSA oil from amazon and use it on my AR rifles. Your advise is perfect. Your information is priceless and has answered many questions of mine. Thank you very much.
I'm very pleased to have helped you. God bless.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and life experience
I’m new to reloading and this information is just what I needed. I felt like I had a hole in my knowledge. Thank you so much. I’ll continue to lean from you at every opportunity.
You just gave me hope for the new reloaders out there!
Incredible........ I am 75 years old and have been hand loading for three years and find your videos to be inspirational. The topics are on the money and you convey your exceptional knowledge in ways that make it easy, fun and exciting to learn. As an example, I have struggled with interpreting flat primers as a sign of over pressure. In this video you talk about using the rounded radius as a sort of 'go/no-go' clue and that one comment brought the whole issue into focus for me. I put the video on pause, headed for my loading room and examined a number of .223 brass cases that I shot yesterday and low and behold there was no radius. I had known that they were flat but, I was not sure if it was a case of over pressure. Talk about helpful. Thank you so much.
i love the videos and your rationale and the way you convey the points is outstanding
Excellent information and sound advice!
very good information, thank you.. I just started myself, learned some from my Dad, but still alot to learn. I wanna load safe and right and the smart way. Thank you, and God bless you as well.
There needs to be a two thumbs up button for this video!
A way to check for stretch marks in front of the web is to straighten out a paperclip and make a short "L" at the end. Stick the "L" end to the end. Drag the tip of the "L" along the side of the case. You'll feel it if the case is stretched in front of the web and about to get a case head separation, sometimes before it is visible on the outside of the case.
Here's a trick I use to minimize case stretching. NOTE; this is based on MY experience and MY .30-06. When I resize, I resize just the neck and don't touch the shoulder. This way, when fired, there is no place where the cartridge case can stretch. Your results may vary.
It would seem to me that shooters of belted magnums could use this trick and have their reloads headspace on the shoulder rather than on the belt. For them, it should minimize case stretching. I read anecdotal accounts of people accidentally (NOT RECOMMENDED, DON'T TRY IT) chambering and firing .300 H&H cartridge in a .300 Weatherby chamber and ejecting a fireformed .300 Weatherby case. This can also cause a split cartridge case and a faceful of hot gas and brass fragments.
However necksizing a .300 Weatherby case will eliminate the .0002" or .0003" slop and prolong case life by reducing stretching.
You are an incredible teacher.
And I quote: “Well there’s a lot of things that are black and white; yes there is a God. That’s black and white. And he loves us...” end quote.
Simply EXCELLENT ! Thank you.
Yes He does love us.Thank you sir your very appreciated
Nothing I could add . Gunblue is 100% correct. I give him an AMAN.
Gunblue490
my Mini 14 ranch rifle is stamped 5.56. That says it for me. I purposely purchased this rifle do I would be as be to safely use both 5.56 oe 223 ammo. I have seen so much argument on this subject it drives me crazy .
thank you for again ( as I saw your video specific to this topic )
making clear this question.
I am completely nes to reloading and am watching your series on the subject.
thank you. I respect your teachings and will not make a purchase towards reloading until I first have finished your series and have the proper manuals in hand.
thanks again.
God bless.
This is by far the best firearms related channel out there. I greatly appreciate you sharing your vast knowledge. I have a question. I had a 300 Weatherby magnum and had a blown primer with Weatherby factory ammo. I tried several other boxes of different ammo after this and would continue to have sticky bolts and extractor marks on the brass. I’m not very familiar with pressure signs. Do you know how this could have happened with 4 different types of factory ammo? I contacted Weatherby and they simply said that there were no reported issues with any of the lot numbers for the ammo, so they did nothing.
I love your vids. I also mic base of case of factory load then work up my loads using pressure signs using a mic measuring base. Primers very alot from makers. I use primers like you state but can catch pressure signs sooner using a mic
Hey Neighbor! Great video, on to number III.
I really struggled with trying to get the most velocity when I started reloading, I inflicted a lot of premature wear on a nice Remington 700 mountain rifle in 270. A hard lesson learned. I usually back off 100 FPS off my max loads now. Much softer shooting and much easier on my equipment.
Wow, that was a heck of a video. Thank you. It's interesting, there are all these reloaders who only got into reloading during the 2020 to 2022 ammo panic to try to offset the lack of availability and outrageous prices. They do not care about the details. You are right when you say that reloading is basically not rocket science but one must reload within the established guidelines that will keep a person safe and will not damage their firearm (the former being more important than the latter). So these jokers are adamant that they do not need a reloading manual because the load data is online, and they just pick a powder charge smack dab in the middle of the min and max. They think that is all they need to know. There is no convincing them otherwise. And just like you said, they then share their bad advice with others who subsequently adhere to the bad and dangerous advice and they share it with more lazy reloaders. It's like that old Fabergé shampoo TV commercial from the 70's, "...and they'll tell two friends, and so on, and so on..."
Thank you for creating this video. I am going to save it in a list so that I can recommend it to new reloaders when they ask my advice.
I always tell people to buy a reloading book, or even just download it in PDF format. And READ. Too many people do not read and treat video like it is the only medium that is necessary to learn. They also seem to forget that 99% of us can read much faster than what we watch or listen to. Before I started reloading, I read my Lee reloading book (always my first recommendation) three times. First time it pretty much went right through me, as I did not understand it or have the equipment yet. Second time started to make more sense. The third time was when I actually had my Lee single stage and some dies and I could actually grasp the material. I've been reloading for around 10 years and I still have a lot to learn. Thankfully I have my reloading books to reference at any time. And to watch the occasional video when I want to as well, like this one.
Thank you for your support and kind words.
4 year old tutorial: great information GB.
Thanks
Very informative .Thank you for mentioning God
Excellent points!
"working with a thin barreled shotgun, they burst very easily.....there is no such thing as pressure signs with a shotgun"
"you could hit maximum below what is listed in the book"...so true...especially if bullet is seated in the rifle lands. Also a load developed at cold environments (I live in Alaska) may show no pressure signs, yet under hot summer conditions may have high pressure. Monolithic bullets will typically have higher pressure, for example in 30 06 a 150 gr Nozler E-Tip has published higher pressure than a 150 gr Nozler Ballistic tip using the same powder charge and same velocity.
For precision rifle hand loads, typically I get my lowest variation in muzzle velocity below published max.
Hi Gunblue . Not a reloading question but a factory ammo /gun question.
I picked up a late 50s 30-30 winchester last year and love it. However , fired some Rem Core Lokts and was sticky on extraction. Ran some Empty ones from a few months ago through one at a time some sticky some normal easy extraction . So went shooting Fired one wanted to be sticky so cocked hammer fired empty shell extracted perfectly I did this several times same result.
Bought some Win Superx came back to shooting spot ran like a champ and then so did the rest of the Remingtons .
Cleaned it up last night first couple shots this morning little resistance unlocking , shot Remingtons and Winchester box each today and all ran well. Weird , all factory ammo.
I don't reload but keep center fired brass in case I do at some point. Some of Remington a few were very slightly protruding but definitely not flat.
chamber was tiny bit rough. No head space issues. Back in business but wow does that thin barrel get hot from shooting from the bench. Three shots and then she gets a rest -rinse and repeat.
Amazing video 👍👍
Hey gun blue I love your channel and love the way u present the information. I am a mechanic(very good mechanic ) and I appreciate all cars and they're design . I can tell u have been doing this a long time and have a great appreciate all things ammo/guns. I am new to reloading. I have 60 rifle (223)and 500 pistol (9mm)cartridges loaded and shot . What rifle/cartridge do u recommend I start with to learn the intricacies, but with the Most success accuracy wise. I'm thinking a 22-250 or a 6.5 Grendel . Let me know if I'm way off base.
You can learn with any number of cartridges, but its always nice to have one that can provide great accuracy for your efforts, and a rifle that matches it. Great expense is completely unnecessary. I always prefer bolt action rifles, simply because they are strong, have great leverage, and are the easiest to achieve accuracy. The 22-250 is a wonderful round that works with a lot of bullet weights, and has versatility to be loaded at various power levels.
Adam, I was a light/medium diesel truck mechanic in the army and an automobile mechanic in the 1990's/2000's when I got out. I DON'T, however, appreciate all automotive designs and found some absolutely deplorable like the Mercedes-Benz grille hanging from the hood that once whacked me in the skull and the stupid horn button on the end of the turn-signal arm in a Jaguar Sovereign. The vehicles I appreciate most nowadays are Toyota cars and light trucks. I own a 1995 Corolla DX now and it's a sledgehammer and anvil for reliability just like the 1975 Corolla E-5 five-door wagon my family got new in 1975.
Yes thank you for the information
Thank you very much ..
Back in the mid nineties, a range friend of mine had just bought a new Glock in .45 acp. We used to meet there one night a week to shoot. We would shoot each others guns at the range etc. He hadn't shown up for a few weeks and I thought nothing of it. Then one day, I walked in, and there he was talking with the salesman at the gun counter. I asked him where he had been. He said, didn't you hear? His gun show reloads had blown out the bottom of the Glock's chamber. The slide and barrel flew up and hit him in the head between his eyes, breaking his glasses. The frame broke in two on the right side, and the discharge blew the trigger group down into his index finger and hand. His trigger and middle finger, and part of his palm were all wrapped up and healing. He said the trigger and frame pieces mangled his trigger finger when the assy blew out the bottom of the frame. Also, he wasn't sure normal function of his finger would return as he had some nerve damage.
He appealed to Glock in an attempt to get them to warranty his pistol, but they declined. That's one reason why I never gift anyone my reloads, and when I load fast powders like 231, bullseye, etc., I'm very wary of my powder charges. I check, then check, then recheck again that I haven't thrown a double charge. Use the book when determining charges, discipline yourself to pay attention when you reload, and know that the headspacing is correct on all of your firearms.
I am researching loads for my .45 Colt using a 250 grain RNFP bullet and using powder that I currently have. I found two, one calls for a OAL of 1.575 and one 1.600 with two different powders. At a seating depth of 1.575 the case mouth is lined up with the crimp groove of the bullet, the 1.600 seating depth leaves the crimp groove high. What affect would seating the bullet to 1.575 have on pressure?
I started reloading about 5 years ago and I use lee dies, I reload for 6 different calibers and I love it but the only issue I ever had was with my Parker Hale 7 mm rem mag on some cases I was getting a ring about 3/8 of an inch from the bottom, and on 2 occasions I had the cases separate now I tried to find out what could I be doing wrong or was the issue with the rifle I wasn't close to max load so I didn't think that was the issue , and I was setting my dies as per lee recommendation. I got all kind of answers from my query's but nothing that helped, but I did find your comment about the dies adjustment causing such problem interesting but since i was setting them as per lee recommendation I'm not sure that alone was the issue , but 2 years ago I invested in neck sizing dies and instead of Full length sizing I neck size I haven't had the problem since. I'm not sure neck sizing resolved the issue but in my case I haven't had any case separation since neck sizing. I do like you videos they provide valuable information keep them coming.
The answer is simple, to a problem that's extremely common. Lee' dies are correct, but it's typical for shoulder length in the chamber to be excessive, due to headspace being determined from the belt. Unscrew your full length die by one and a half turns, and progressively size a case and tighten the die by a quarter turn until the case fits your rifle normally. Use a different case each time, so you don't overwork the brass. When done, go back and resize all. Neck sizing is also extremely good, with the same rifle, especially if with a Lee collet die which will preserve your brass, too.
+GunBlue490
Thanks I'll try that next time I resize my 7mm
Thank you
20:29 "Instead of waiting 3 or 4 days for all these dopes to pile on with their information" Isn't that the truth. hahahaha
I have an Spanish Mauser, model of 1893. My copy was made at Oviedo in 1899 as a replacement for a similar rifle that was lost in the Spanish American War in '98. I am told that they were made deliberately with excess headspace because late 19th century brass was made to liberal tolerances. I noticed that primers of factory loads would back halfway out on firing. After a spell in my pocket, the primer would separate completely. On reloading the case, I keep full length resizing to a minimum. On second and subsequent firings, the excess headspace is gone and the primer remains secure.
I find best accuracy is achieved before maximum loads are reached. If you need much faster velocities then use another cartridge. IMR 3031 has served me well for several cartridges. I get the same velocity with IMR 3031 and IMR 4895 in my 35 WCF however it feels like less recoil with IMR 3031. I'm I dreaming this or do others have the same result?
You should have mentioned different LOT NUMBERS of different components, particularly powders and primers. New lot numbers, rework as a new load.
When going from standard to Magnum primers for, for example, hunting in Alaska (cold weather), consult the manual, rework as a new load.
I kept hearing about ringed barrels but couldn't find any information. I now know about case separation and what it causes.
Never, never, ever, take a .222 Rem Mag., and a .223 Remington to the range at the same time! It's one of the quickest ways to learn a hard lesson about headspace, and to feel like a very stupid human being! Thankfully, I was alone at the range! Now, I use color coded boxes in addition to the labels to differentiate between the two. Very thankful for the robust Steyr SL action.
Im using liquid heat mixed with lanolin as lubricany. Im small base sizing 3/4th of 223/5.56
Brass.
Just received my copy of Richard Lee’s Modern Reloading. In the manual they list a overall length. Is that measurement a maximum length or a minimum length? Thanks
Lengths are always minimum. Maximum is limited only by magazine length, minimum allowable seating depth, and/or throat length. The general rule is to seat at least one caliber deep, though there are exceptions.
If anyone could tell what happened with my experience I would greatly appreciate it.
At the range I was shooting my smith and wesson model 629 chambered in. 44 magnum when it jammed I couldn't get the cylinder open.
I had to take the gun apart.
What I found was the primer came out or backed out and jammed.
The bullet ever fired.
I'm not sure if I missed it in the video - but could you please explain how a NATO cartridge could have higher pressure, but same muzzle velocity as a standard round? Thanks!
Barrel length
Sir, with respect to pressure and your comments on the 5.56 NATO vs .223 Rem, does the same hold true for 7.62 NATO and .308 Win?
No, it doesn't. The 7.62 NATO may be fired without concern in a .308 Winchester chamber. In fact, as with military loadings of the 30-06 Springfield, civilian loads are loaded to greater velocities and higher pressure than service loads by at least 100 feet per second. 7.62 NATO brass is typically heavier, which reduces powder capacity, so charges should be reduced by at least five percent and worked up with great caution.
I have been reloading since the early 80's, and it has always been about accuracy. In all these years I have only seen 1 rifle that liked over max loads, (flat primer is as far as I would ever try). Having seen several firearms come apart via overpressure, it is a dance I am not willing to do. And to that 1 rifle I meantioned I got rid of it quickly.
Most folks don't realize that an overcharged load will yield less than 1 percent greater velocity. Even at 100 feet per second for a 3,000 fps caliber, that gains less than 20 yards of ballistic advantage, and with such calibers, the standard pressures are already on the roof.
When loading 45acp with cast bullets and you use a rolled crimp how does that impact where the headspace is or will be?
The 45 ACP headspaces on the front of the case and cannot be roll crimped. It requires a firm taper crimp. I prefer to use Lee 4 die set with the factory crimp die that post sizes to exact factory dimensions.
Ruger Mini 30 manual says do not use steel cased ammunition but does not elaborate as to why. Why??
Is it really a big deal to shoot some corrosive ammo in my chrome lined ZPAP? I mean, I think it'll be alright. I got one case of 1240 Yugo M67 cartridges made in 2002 which may have corrosive primers. That is the ammunition that was issued with the M70 rifles.
Saw a video regarding bullet to land measuring. It went as follows. Fit the bullet in a case so it it can move without any force. Then a little loc tite to inside of caase. Put this round in chamber , close the bolt and let it sit for a few minutes. Remove bullet , measure overall length and decide adjustment of .030 or whatever for jump to rifling lands. What is your thoughts on this sir?
That should work. Be sure that the LocTite doesn't get into the gun.
@@GunBlue490 Yes Sir! Thank you!
@@GunBlue490 the loctite is applied a small drop with a q tip. In case anyone read this. Thanks for all your great work sir!
I have a question, if your weapon is punching a hole in primer will that cause damage ?
Absolutely!! That will destroy your gun, and may kill you!! Gasses may have cut into the firing pin, sharpening it, making matters worse. Do not fire it again before having it checked by the factory, or knowledgeable gunsmith. This is normally a condition caused by cheaply made ammo, which should never be fired, but I had one very high grade rifle that had a firing pin that protruded too far, requiring professional shortening. The latter is a very rare situation. The first is not uncommon with cheap guns and/or ammunition. Even if ammo resolves the problem, you must have the gun inspected before firing it again, as it could be seriously weakened, and certainly the firing pin or spring could be damaged.
Can you use cci 41 primers for 223 ar15 rifles
mzaboynik
They are a magnum small rifle primer that are designed with reduced sensitivity to help prevent unintentional slam fires in military applications. Unless you have a particular concern about slam fires in combat conditions, there's no benefit whatsoever. Lowered sensitivity comes with a price, too. If you desire accuracy, you want increased sensitivity, not decreased. I wouldn't buy them for my ammo, unless others were unavailable. Just use what the loading manuals call for, and keep things simple.
Pay very close attention to what he says about the .223 vs the 5.56. I have a friend who told me they were the same round, and I had to insist very strongly that they are not the same, as the 5.56 is a military round that produces more pressure. I am fortunate that my AR is rated on the barrel to fire both types. Do not fire 5.56 NATO out a rifle rated only for .223. Just like you don't want to fire .30-06 out an M1 Garand.
No sir, Mr. GunBlue490, handloading/reloading is not for idiots who want instant gratification or who hate to read books. You are correct, sir, to state it's not the cup of tea for everybody.
My state this year (2019) requires Non-Lead bullets for all hunting. There's very little information about reloading the Non-Lead bullets. Would this be something you would be interested in, making a reloading video all about the Non-Lead bullets? I sure hope so, because I don't want to damage my rifle let alone myself. Ha. Thank you for your time.
Call hammer bullet company. Great people.
👍
"Are you stupid?"..."yes I'm stupid." LOL!
Is their a "simple" math problem you can do to calculate your pressure or what it should be before loading
Yes. Calculate the cost of a reloading manual published by laboratory technicians that measure those pressures with advanced pressure measuring systems. Never load without approved, published loading data.
@@GunBlue490 well I have both the lyman manual and the lee manual but I mean as in if I go up or down a few grains how much should I expect the pressure to change. I read both books cover to cover and haven't seen any specific calculations
@23:10 Amen
When all else fails read the manual. Why is reading it first so difficult to do???
It's a guy thing. We like to figure things out ourselves as a skill builder and because as men/leaders we're expected to just know everything.
"just because its simple doesn't mean everybody can bake a pie" lol
back when i was 6 weeks old -- i remember it clearly-- dad taught me the valuable lesson to R.T.F.M.: READ THE FUCKIN' MANUAL
Using 3 different hypothetical bullet weights 150, 160 and 170 with 160gr as the baseline. The 170gr bullet should use relatively less powder because heavier bullet has higher inertia and takes up more case capacity. So to prevent higher pressure, the powder needs to be reduced. However, what would happen if you were to use the same powder weight for the 150gr as the 160gr? Does it also cause the pressure to spike? This is purely an academic question, in practice I only follow the load specified in the manual....and yes, there is only one God and He loves us.
Your correct about higher inertia. But not case capacity....you can load 150 gr vs 180 gr and they could have a case capacity of 88% 82%.
Imagine pushing a marble through a pipe versus a lead ball through a pipe with a handheld rod.
As an example, 30 06 with IMR4350 54.0 gr, 150 gr bullet had a published pressure of 47,400 psi while
30 06 with IMR4350 53.0 gr, 180 gr bullet had a published pressure of 48,300 psi
@@RetrieverTrainingAlone still...what would happen if one were to load lighter bullets with heavier bullet data? If case capacity is the same and less inertia, what's the danger? I also have a similar Q but regarding same bullet weight but jacketed vs lead but that's for later.
Also what is your opinion of 380 for self defense ? Thank you in advance..
The .380 has improved greatly with better bullets. It is entirely a self defense or officer's back-up weapon. It's certainly adequate. It's primary usefulness is its compact size, but now that 9mm pistols have arrived with more compact design, they are worth considering, though they will never be as small. Ultra small .380s are very difficult to shoot. But a .380 in you pocket is better than a 9mm you leave home.
Thanks again for your very valuable information.
I did a video myself on accuracy vs velocity. For some reason the "new" guys don't understand and want down range energy without a bigger bullet.
I never load max. Try to go half way from min to max or less. No need for hot loads.
Staynless, non corrosive
reading the news paper as you say well get you more lies than the internet....
I think the only load data I'd take from the web is if it was a direct reference to a book load ... example I see on shotgun world is referencing something from one of the many reloading manuals from BPI or Precision Reloading where the person suggests the page number and the load number and leaves it at that for the person asking for help to purchase said manual and follow the recipe from the manual. you are right that taking actual recipe data from the web is extremely dangerous... you don't know who that person posting the data is or what their motivation is either, they could be deliberately posting hot loads for malicious purposes for all you know.
I have not been reloading very long but I do double check with the powder manufacturers load data and compare to the reloading manuals to make sure. I did a ladder test for my Savage 99C (modern) .308 with some VV-N550. I loaded to the Lee manual (I think). The top loads were tough extraction. Once I checked the V V website it seems the Lee specs were actually higher than the manufacturer's. So definitely look at and compare pressure statistics among the different sources. My suggestion is to use at least three different sources for comparison.
Just my two bits worth.
Thanks for the knowledge.
:-)
Speaking of the primers. I have had one pierced in cheap tula ammo 7.62 x39 in my sks. The force of that gas coming back through, slammed the firing pin to the back of the bolt and physically bent it. Avoid these cheap ammo manufactures as well.
I like your comment. I have been shooting cheap steelcase ammo for 30+ years. I know if you have a problem that damages your firearm within 5 years of using cheap ammo, you may advise against this ammo. As far as center fire ammo goes, I've never had damage to my guns, 30+ years. I will tell you that I have Russian junior 22 rimfire steelcase ammo. 5000 round case. No problems for 15+ years. But the 500 round brick that I just opened, has many misfires, jams, corrosive smoke, and leaning projectiles in case. Two jams produced 2 rounds that the bullets fell out. Thanks.
Awesome vid thanks.Put it in a hat n burn it lol
11! WARNING-AMMUNITION (CARTRIDGES) NOTICE WE SPECIFICALLY DISCLAIM RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE FOR INJURY WHATSOEVER OCCURRING IN CONNECTION WITH, OR AS THE RESULT OF, THE USE IN RUGER FIREARMS OF FAULTY, OR NON-STANDARD, OR “REMANUFACTURED” OR HAND LOADED(RELOADED) AMMUNITION, OR OF CARTRIDGES OTHER THAN THOSE FOR WHICH THE FIREARM WAS ORIGINALLY CHAMBERED.AMMUNITION The RUGER ® MINI-14® RANCH RIFLES are chambered for the .223Remington (5.56mm) cartridge. The Ranch Rifle is designed to use either standardize U.S. military or factory loaded sporting .223 (5.56mm) cartridges manufactured in accordance with U.S. industry practice. See “Ammunition Notice” & “Ammunition Warning”, below.
Sir, I copied this off the Ruger website (as you suggested) and I read it that the Ruger Mini 14 Rance can use EITHER standardized U.S. Military or factory loaded sporting .223 (5.56) cartridges. To me it says that this rifle can fire both! Am I reading this incorrectly? I believe what you are trying to say and I have read the owner manual...it says "either" cartridge may be used. What am I misunderstanding?
On a similar note...what if an AR platform rifle is using an upper and lower that is chambered for and states "Multi" for cartridges it can fire? Is there latitude there to fire both .223 and 5.56?
34:23 - I don't think I understand this completely, so you should or should not read the manual? 😂😂😂
Always read the manual. I don't know why that's unclear. I read directly from the manual in the video, where it stated that all .223 or military 5.56mm ammo may be safely used, with the only exception being the .223 Target Model, which is a very rare production gun.
@@GunBlue490 I am totally kidding, this was one of the funniest lines I have seen in your videos, and there are many. And I AM one of those dummies who skipped over the manual before I watched this video. I'll always read the manual... I also love your channel, such amazing information, thanks so much for your wisdom.
Thank you