Years pass and all your videos are still helping countless people. I look at the stats as I type this, and I see you have something upwards of 51,000 subscribers, this video has been viewed by 24,587 times, and yet only 617 people clicked thumbs up / like. I have to assume that is just because folks have come to simply _expect_ interesting, informative, and well narrated videos from you, and so they just take them for granted. Expecting good as only normal is a compliment in itself. As far as the 15 thumbs down / dislikes - those clearly must be from owners and employees of various overpriced case lube companies. You are costing them money. :-)
Thank you sir. Great vid and I feel like I'm 12 back at my grandpas work bench watching him explain reloading 30 06. I thank you for that. God bless and great knowledge
Good on you Gun Blue.Ive been shooting all my life since i was 3 years old and reloading for the past 45 years and your video has shown me that Ive been wasting a lot of time lubing cases individually and cleaning them individually.Thanking you for another great video and God Bless you and your family.
Still relevant! I just started delving into .223 with my LM. Faced with the, apparently common, issue of stuck cases, I got to the point where I was spraying enuff lanolin mix on them to oil up a good sized sumo, and spraying on a coat of one-shot too! Still had stuck cases. A tube of Lee lube, a tub, and a little experimentation to make sure I am using enough and problem solved. Thanks
I try to watch at least 1 video of yours a week, they're long but very detailed and informative. I'm glad I watched this, I just started getting into reloading and this is probably going to save me money, and be less wasteful
Started reloading in the late 1970s. Went with the standard RCBS stuff to put on their pad and was very dissatisfied with it, gummy junk. Perhaps I used too much but eventually it built up in my die and I was experiencing dents when reloading for .25-20WIN. Cleaned my die(s) with brake cleaner spray and blown out with compressed air. Repeated with rubbing alcohol and air to make sure all was clean and dry. Then I went with the thinner Dillon pump spray and have had zero problems since. You are slowly changing me and now I will try this Lee resizing goop. THANK YOU. Old dogs can learn new tricks. Luckily I have never experienced a stuck case(except in a .223/5.56 chamber). I sure never want that headache! All my pistol dies and some of my rifle dies are carbide. For those rifle calibers that have carbide dies I still lube about 20% of my cases in fear of a stuck case. Maybe I don't need it but I find it makes all the resizing smooth as butter. Butter! Now that's an idea, "organic" and I can lick the cases clean! Vegans can use coconut butter.
This is becoming one of my favorites. You actually LEARN something. Am thinking about a "one load for everything" concept. Become "field familiar" with this load, be ready the day I can afford to hunt dangerous game in Alaska.
Sir! You've enriched the experience of my introduction. To this rewarding pastime. By removing the mysterious veneer. Of the volumeous knowledge required. To safely conduct our activities. Kudos and bravo Zulu. Thanks Chief. Fond regards sir.
I too really like the wipe-on lubricants as opposed to the sprays; I just lost too many cases to dents with sprays, though they are convenient. Imperial Wax for me; I like how it just wipes off with a microfiber rag, and as with the Lee, you just need a tiny, tiny amount. I do also like the dry neck lube that you apply using a small tub of ceramic balls; very convenient method. If your necks are very clean, as happens with wet tumbling or ultrasonic cleaning, they can be a bit tight through the expander ball, even with a carbide expander -- the dry lube really helps with that situation.
I'm always amazed by your knowledge,patience, and attention to detail. How does it feel to be still that good, at your stage in life. Believe me, I didn't know the best way to word that compliment. Thanks for your willingness to share knowledge. It has helped, greatly.
I came a little late to reloading but man I love your videos , your so informative, I'm learning and I really soak up you're videos. Please keep them up 🙏 thanks
great video, I use the Lee case lube myself, I last bought a tube in 2012 2k + 40 S&W, 1k 45 acp, 2k 45 colt, looks like I will have to get another tube this year. 2019
Thank you so much for your videos! I got a little over ambitious with the amount of lee lube today. With the size of a almond of lee lube tried to resize 150 223 cases and had my first stuck case lol got it take care of and realized It was my fault lol keep up the great videos!
Brilliant video was having problems with stuck cases in 223 and 243 useing spray lube had some lee lubricant but was using it all wrong just putting around the neck applied it to the case as you did and I have not had a problem. Thank you Steve Shipley UK.
This is a MARVELOUS video - keeping it real and in perspective, almost always lacking in other videos. I do find it interesting with your "reveal" of the Castrol Iloform PS700 drawing paste - looking at the MSDS they write, "Not recommended for yellow metal." And still, hard to argue with the results, right ? There is the saying, "He who says it can't be done, should step aside for one who is doing it." Thank you ! For anyone so interested, they also say (as Lee now prints on their packaging) that this can be diluted with water (Lee says "four parts water"). The Castrol MSDS explicitly states that when diluting, (they call it "extending") water should be added slowly to the paste while mixing, and never add the paste to the water. This is curious for a chemist anyway, as we learn that just the opposite is generally true, with the nemonic "one can add a substance to the river - one cannot add the river to the substance".
Very instructive. I am about to begin reloading 223 which will be my first rifle rounds to prep and reload. I am reloading for accuracy in a bolt action that I want to use in 3 gun matches. I have a progressive Dillon 550 press and am trying to come up with minimal but necessary steps for the whole process. My idea is to take uncleaned previously fire formed brass from my rifle and 1. Mass lube, resize and deprime 2. Wet tumble to clean lube off and get primer pockets cleaner 3. Swage primer pocket (if necessary) and trim if necessary, deburr case mouth 4. Simply run remaining steps of priming only in station one, drop powder in station 2, seat bullet in station 3 and finally crimp in station 4 if necessary. My only concern is not cleaning cases prior to resizing and depriming. I don't think that will be an issue. BTW, I want to wet tumble as that is how I prep my 9mm cases which I reload about 1000/month. Your thoughts.
Prioritize things in a different order. Case preparation comes before anything, and the first order of case prep is not cleaning. Primer pocket cleaning receives incredible press, but is 100 percent waste of time, so I wouldn't fuss over it. I shoot benchrest accuracy with my rifles and stopped doing it 40 years ago. Mixed brass have far more velocity variations than any other irregularities! First, cull out any military cases and separate them aside. Buy a simple one-stage press and mount a Lee universal decapping die on it, and run all your crimped military cases through it, then swage them. Trim all cases to length. NOW is the time to clean them. I dry tumble all my cases in walnut media, and it's perfect. I see absolutely no purpose for fussing over this extraordinarily unimportant and overblown part of the reloading procedure. Like dirty primer pockets, dirty interiors make no difference whatsoever. It's just a powder compartment, and burnng powder granules could care less and are not going to change their burning rate or efficiency. Does a person polish the inside of his wood stove every night before adding logs? I vastly prefer Lee case lube to ANY other lube, and I've used them all. A very, very, very, little goes a long way. You can thin it with a small amount of alcohol. Just put all your cases in a plastic tub with a lid on it and shake them with the lube until each case has a haze on them. A haze, not a layer. Allow for the haze to dry. It may take as much as two minutes on a bad day. Load them through all stages of the Dillon. When done, your ammo is completely water proof. Put them all back into that lubrication tub and fill it with warm water and a few drops of Dawn dish detergent. Use both hands to agitate them thoroughly until squeaky clean. Rinse completely. Spread out on a large bath towel and dry them off. Typing this took longer than doing it.
A nice segue from your 270 super accurate ammo series! I use the Dillon lanolin mixture and spritz it on rifle cases. Now I have a use for that very old can of Crisco and maybe even some bacon grease!
GunBlue- I highly recommend you to a serious look at Browning's ABolt III if you find yourself itching for a new rifle. I've found their design overwhelmingly intriguing and probably will set the standard for some years to come, and your mechanical knowledge on firearm assembly and employment would give viewers a standing room only audience.
I use common coconut oil. I apply either with fingertips (like lube wax) or roll on a pad. Very inexpensive, clean, easy to wipe off (removes residues on the case too). You only need a very little to get butter-smooth FL resizing. I use RCBS Case Lube 2 (water-based) for neck lube just before sizing with a nylon bore brush. The coconut oil is too oily for inside the neck. After sizing, I roll the cases on a terrycloth towel, heat them up and shake them for a few seconds. Simple, easy-peasy! Try it and you will abandon all other case lubes.
Great Apron!!!I live down by New Orleans and Love Muffulettas from Central Grocery when I go down to the French Quarter.. I am enjoying your Re-loading videos and getting a lot of info!!! Thanks!!
Cough, Cough...retrieves jaw from lap....YOU SOLD YOUR 7-08? Where's my nitro? Someone call the nurse? I can't see the numbers on the phone to call for 911....on a side note- Indeed, Lee's Lube is the tried and true goto product. May God Bless You & Yours for many many to come-
1 part of lanolin / 8 to 12 part of isopropanol alcohol (depend of the consistancy you want), works very well (that's probably the same recipe than Dillon and RCBS case lube, and certainly others)
Yes, it's the most messy, antiquated, costly, difficult to remove, and unnecessary lubricant ever devised. The ONLY lube I have used for 20 years and which I assuredly advise over any other, is Lee case lube. It's an industrial metal FORMING lubricant, made specifically for extreme pressure forming, it's extremely efficient, requiring a bare trace, it is super cheap and economical (one small tube lasts me for 3 years), it's water soluble, and washes off with warm water and dish detergent, or it can be wiped off with a wet cloth, and it works wet or dry. It's superior to anything I have ever used, because it's the only lubricant that started life as a metal reforming lube and not as boot wax or hair grease (that's where the lanolin recipe came from). I have used every possible lubricant available, including the ancient lanolin recipe, and I have used the best and the worst, and have sized big 30-06 cases down to 22-250 cases, and I know what works. The last lubricant I would ever recommend is that lanolin recipe or any of those gunky commercial versions used by your great great grandfather to keep his hair down and his mustache up.
I am a neophyte to reloading which means I'm impressionable to the experienced folks to whom I have access. Thankfully the Lord has given me a measure of common sense and I consider myself using it well, when I gravitate toward these types of instructionals. I know the point you were conveying in this video, but I think I'll leave the gear oil in my gear box, leave the bearing grease on my spindles, the shortening in the kitchen, and the toxic substances in things that it is needed for. That leaves the water based waxy substance that will last me 5 years at the cost of $5.00. The substance that won't get sprayed all over my workspace or cause powder charges to lose uniformity. I just bought four tubes of Lee Resizing Lube. One less decision where I don't have to spend a lot for better performance. Thank you and may God bless!
Well sir, you've opened my eyes. The tube of Lee resizing lubricant that I ordered up to try arrived today. Much nicer to use than the Imperial that I normally use, and the option to use it either wet or dry is handy. I find it to wipe off just as easily with the microfiber rag I normally use. Sure glad I gave it a try.
Allan Bazinet The microfiber is great for a few, but may I suggest the following. Loaded ammo is totally waterproof. Place the ammo in the same plastic container that is used to coat the brass for sizing. Put a squirt of Dawn dish detergent in and fill with hot, not scalding water, suds up and agitate for 30 seconds or so, just like doing silverware. Rinse thoroughly and dump onto a heavy towell, and dry. I've done as many as two hundred 223 rounds at a time that way, and it makes short work of an otherwise tedious job, and they sparkle!
When resizing 200 pieces of mil-surp once fired 50 BMG brass that had been shot in a loose chamber machine gun, I got a good lesson in resizing lube. You do NOT want to get one of those stuck in a resizing die. I actually found that the best lube for volume applications was synthetic motor oil, because it was the easiest to apply by hand. Now, I use my rotary tumbler for most reloading chores and a lot of other shop purposes as well. It's great for lubing brass similar to the shaken tub method you showed in the video. I use two gallon wide mouth plastic jugs, and they're each dedicated to a certain task so I never need to clean them to use them for something else. I also tumble clean the brass to remove the case lube. I have jugs for cold bluing steel parts, powder coating cast bullets (a real time saver and great quality), etc. The video didn't mention lubing the inside of the case neck, and that's not a problem when sizing 7mm down to 6mm, but in the normal resizing process the neck is undersized a bit and then expanded back out, and a tiny bit of lube for the case neck expander is a good thing. Lee recommends wiping a tiny bit across the neck after rolling the outside of the brass between your finger and thumb to lube the outside of the case using their case lube.
The point is to lubricate as necessary, and however necessary, but not because it's a religion. Lubrication issues are of two types: None and too much. I have never used a case lubricant that worked finer than the Lee lubricant, which is an industrial metal drawing product made by Castrol, just for metal drawing. You can put as much on as you like, and will not collapse shoulders when used dry, inside and out.
I too have had very good luck with Lee case lube. I particularly like that it's easy to remove with water. It's also great that it's so cheap. I've used Castrol synthetic oil because it was easier to apply by hand, but I'll tumble lube rifle cases in a manner that is the automated version pf your tumble lube method, even though I was surprised at how quickly you were able to tumble them by hand. I may just keep a gallon jug next to the reloading bench rather than mess with the tumbler. I also love how the Lee lubed brass quickly dries and isn't wet and sticky to handle. Thanks again for the great video.
Have used Lee lubricant thinned with alcohol in a small spray bottle to spritz cases 2 or 3 squirts. You can put cases in a bowl and shake them or lay them on a shop towel or lube pad to spread the lube. Twenty five percent lube to seventy five percent alcohol works well and the alcohol evaporates quickly. A tube of Lee lube lasts me about 10 years.
Regarding the Lee lube: I live in an arid climate, and it seams that allowing it to dry between one and three hours seems to be perfect. I'm using a Lee Hand Press, and the effort needed to pull the ram back down increases greatly if it dries more.
No one ever told me to not lube the shoulder? Do we also not lube the neck? I have learned a lot from your video's! I shoot F-Class T/R with Win .308 and a 6.5-06 out of 32inch cut rifled barrel in Unlimited. Always learning. I use a single shot rifled slug gun 12ga., 10/22 and 45/70 Lever Action for hunting. My Dad was self taught and he taught me so we are always learning! Thanks for your video's!
buckaroobonsi555 Any wet lubrication of the outside of the neck will gather onto the shoulder, which can create hydraulic compression between the shoulder and die and make wrinkles or dents. The sharper shouldered cases are more prone to such issues. That's why I prefer Lee case lube, which I can toss on the entire case, and allow to dry, eliminating the hydraulic effect. If tossed wet, just wipe the neck and shoulder off. Good old case lube pads sold everywhere are great for small amounts of cases, as they allow you to roll half a dozen cases neatly, where no lube contacts the shoulder. I used them for many years and they were foolproof.
Yes my Dad and I use Lee Case Lube. We use a Lee Anniversary set to develop loads than a DIllion 550B to mass produce them after we work up a good load. Sinclair is just too expensive for me so I use Lee and Hornady and RCBS dies in that order. I compete on a budget. I go their to win obviously but I am not willing to spend what it would cost to be truly competitive plus I have to work and go to school etc....I am not retired so I cannot sit around shooting and reloading all day like some of those retired Doctors, Lawyers and Engieers.....LOL Most of all I do it to have fun. I sometimes get dents on the shoulders when reloading 300 Win Mag for my Dad. I am guessing I am over lubing and I need to stop lubing the short neck and the shoulder. Thanks!
I did not think Crisco would work so well. I use with my black powder guns never thought it would work for sizing cases. I am starting to get the feeling a lot of specialty products you see people selling really arn't needed.
I'm going to have to try this again. Years back, I tried running a 30-06 case through the 270 Win. dies to shrink it down. However, it was a bear to do. I got half way through the stroke on the press when it became stuck, and I do mean stuck. I had to literally put all my weight on the lever to complete the re-size. I was very fearful of breaking the press. The press didn't break, however, but I got a pretty significant dent in the mid section of the case. Worried about having pressure issues from the damaged case, I loaded it with a lite load and fire formed it.
At 34:23 of the video, showing cases lubed with Lee paste, I see what looks like an unfired primer in one of the cases. Your Lee resizing die also looks like it has the de-priming pin/expander in place. Driving out an unfired primer would be dangerous. Please explain.
It's actually not unsafe at all, for a very basic reason. Understand that the decapping pin presses on the anvil of the primer, which is not the same as the firing pin striking the cup, which pinches the priming compound. This was explained to me many years ago. I have actually decapped many hundreds of unfired primers in my life for one reason or another, without one ever going off. However, I have had a few detonate while inserting, not removing primers, especially in the days when some primers were made with domed tops, before being flat. In the event that one might detonate, it would simply fire into the die harmlessly, and the primer would go downward. I certainly advise that everyone wear glasses while reloading.
Yes, yet another great vid. I was wondering if you could help me understand something better? I was quite surprised when you didn't lube the neck area. I understand watching your video the concerns shoulder with denting. When you run that case into the die I would expect the neck to be experiencing the most deformation since it's being squeezed down to a smaller caliber. How come no lube is required here? Is it because the smaller surface area doesn't generated enough surface tension to cause problems? Sorry if I'm geeking out just trying to understand it a little better and you're the only one who explains these things real clear! BTW, thanks for making me smarter....
Never, ever, lube above the shoulder of the case, which causes hydraulic dents, except with very light amounts of tossed Lee lube or similar drying lubricant when allowed to fully dry. Lubrication has nothing to do with the effects of case stretching nor the mechanical function of sizing. It is only used to prevent seizure in the die. The small surface area and ductility of the neck and shoulder provide the means to resize that section without lube. It is the hard case body that gets stuck. Even dry lubes, when used excessively, will dent cases when applied on the neck or shoulder. A very light amount may be applied with a nylon case neck brush to the inside of the neck, if the sizing ball is sticking. Apply lubrication only to the body of the case, using the lightest possible application, but NEVER to the neck and shoulder.
Very educational video thank you for it. I do have a question, what would happen if you accidentally loaded that resized round into 7 mm-08 and fired it?
I love your channel I used to reload constantly rifle and shotgun being born and raised in NV I had a lot of areas to shoot my dad's reloader had this sticky carp for a lube. I don't remember why I tried it but I took a plastic case that held electrical tape. I filled one have of the case with powdered graphite to my kneck depth for my 243 and dipped it in I never used anything else again my brass lasted forever and even full re s sizing took half the effort I'm going to get back into reloading now that I'm retired and I'm going to try hexagonal born the nickname for it is white graphite maybe I almost caused an atomic explosion but it worked great with no buildup and being graphite a wipe down before putting it in the box give it a try on a small batch and see what you think thanks for the great videos
2 questions. I read that you need to use carbide dies to reload nickel plated brass, but you said not to use on tapered cases. And you said to never put lube on the necks, but when you mass lube you're getting lube on the necks. How do you handle these issues?
For case lube I use a mixture of HEET carb cleaner and Lanolin. I get the Lanolin from the local health food store and HEET from the local auto parts store. Mix a whole bottle of HEET with a quarter bottle of Lanolin and put into a spray bottle. I then take a couple of hundred cases and put them in a plastic drum with a clean rag sprayed with the HEET/Lanolin. Shake for a minute or two and you will have perfectly lubed cases. Cases sprayed with this stay lubed for a long time. This mixture is the same stuff that a lot of manufacturers use like Dillon. The HEET evaporates quickly and the Lanolin lubes the cases as good as or better than commercially available products at a much lower cost. 2 bucks for HEET and about 5 bucks for Lanolin for thousands of rounds of reloading!
Like SomeGuyInSandy said , I have heard about the lanolin and alcohol method , and no where on YT did anyone say things were as easy as you showed and explained . Thank you so much for the awesome info and en depth descriptions of what you actually do . Thank you so much for sharing your wealth of knowledge with us , keep up the great work , have fun and be safe .
Donald R I apply a standard rule of thumb in my life. I consistently find that simplicity is inversely proportional to the complications described. To put it another way; the more complex and confusing an issue appears, the easier and less complex it really is. My grandmother taught me not to make mountains out of molehills, and to find more constructive things to do with my time than to invent trouble.
I appreciate that , thank you again . Your grandfather was very right on that point , about not making mountains out of mole hills . I also like the idea of Keep It Simple , the KISS method of things, yeah , I know other words go into the saying , but some can just be really derogatory . Thank you again , love your videos , have watched almost all of them over the past few months .
Do you have any videos on full length resizing and bumping the shoulder of your brass I'm having a problem where my cases are getting stuck in the chamber I'm shooting a 220 Swift and have trimmed all the cases to spec but they're still getting stuck in the chamber so I figured the shoulder needs to be bumped could I have your opinion on this matter it seems I'm always going. I always reference your videos if I want to do something you seem to be very knowledgeable
Thank you for this video, Sir. It has a lot of good information. I'm going to size a bunch of new .30-'06 brass up to .338-'06 A-Square, and I'm wondering if I need to also use a very small amount of lube on the inside of the case mouths(as well as the outside of the case walls) when I do this. These cases haven't been annealed yet, and I'm assuming that there was a small amount of work - hardening that occurred when they were formed at the factory. Is annealing something that should be done, and how often? Thanks again for your channel, and for your help!
I liked the, I think it's made by Hornady...One Shot spray lube. You could lube lots of cases really fast. Recently I have been introduced to Imperial Sizing Wax and a neck lube called Redding Imperial Convenien........be Plus Application Media. I typed this exactly as it reads on the tube it comes in. These two lubes are great!! It takes just a hint to lube the case and I don't know how the necks get lubed but they do. Not as fast as One Shot but a lot less messy and easy to wipe clean with a cloth. Thanks for the video Cap.
Can you use Ballistol as a case lube using the formula of one quarter cup Ballistol to three quarters cup of water as the company says for treating metal and leather?
Finally found someone who mentions that carbide tubes are only available in one diameter and therefore carbide dies are not available in the likes of a 223 neckdown. Thanks....
Aerosol spray works great if you barely spray the inside of a big ziplock bag, then pour in your brass and roll it around. Doesn't get on the inside of the brass. Coats very well, and it last forever.
Have you ever used Imperial sizing lube? Also about the static electricity I heard you could use a dryer sheet to help the problem is that true? Thank you for your valuable time and information!
I know you can answer this. I had a bunch of once used .223 brass I shot out of my S&W AR15 Sport. I reloaded all of it in my Lee Turret press and have used some of it in the same S&W with no problem. However, I built an AR with a Wylde bore and most of this ammo will not extract. In fact, I have to use a soft mallet to extract it by tapping on the recharge handle. The Wylde chamber leaves some score marks about 2/3 of the way down the case even though I ran the cases through a Lee Resizing Die. I don't understand why the cases are too large. I thought the resizing die would have taken care of this.
That was my first thought. I have the Lee Ultimate Die set that comes with both full length & neck dies. I used the full length sizer. I checked against the instructions & Lee website (i leave it mounted in the turret). I suppose if the case was not pressed all the way into the die the lower part of the case would not get resized. I do not think this happened but that would be a possible explanation. I cannot think of an alternative. If the case was pressed all the way into the die I don't see how it could not be the appropriate size. I'm puzzled.
Yes, I can. Sizing dies are typically made to maximum SAAMI chamber standards so resized brass typically fits more snugly than factory brass (good thing), which must be made to minimum dimensions to fit every chamber. Wylde chambers are hybrid custom chambers, and may be minimum chambers that will only accept minimum commercial or NATO ammo. Wylde chambers are not unique in this situation, which is why some die manufacturers provide small base dies. Over the years, certain firearms, particularly Remington pumps and autos, Browning autos, and others, have had minimum chambers that would not accept traditionally resized brass. My vintage 99 Savage is one, also, where resized brass from my Lee dies barely chambered with force. I discovered that I had my die set on the press to a rather lazy adjustment, where I could see light between the die and shell holder at full extension, and was not really getting full advantage. It's still snug, but now chambers and ejects nicely as you see in my latest outdoor video. Check that first. Screw the die down beyond full extention, where you cannot compress the ram, then back off a tweak at a time until compound leverage is complete. If that is not sufficient, you will need a small base die. Contact Lee, and see if they can ship one. I would be surprised if they could not. If not, I know that RCBS makes them, and possibly others do.
Excellent, that makes sense in light of what I am seeing. Thank you for the feedback. I learned something new about chamberings. Thank you for all your well informed vids & info.
GunBlue490 - RCBS does indeed offer small base dies. I have them in .30-06 and .308. I love RCBS. There products are sold everywhere and their customer service cannot be beat.
You know I was always told with the lee lubricant, that just a simple wiping of the case with a clean rag was sufficient enough to start reloading. Is that wrong info? With spray lubes I use a plastic sandwich bag and spray a small amount in bag and throw the brass in close it and rub them around till lightly coated, cuts down on waste and mess...
Nice video! I'm a fan of the lanolin and alcohol spray method myself. I do get a dented neck once in a while. Next time I'll try wiping the necks clean beforehand. Thanks for the tip!
SomeGuyInSandy I'm well aware of Lanolin and alcohol, which I used in the 70s. Lanolin is one of the oldest case lubricants that was used 100 years ago, but it's unnecessarily sticky and thick, and very prone to denting cases and even distorting them. There's no need whatsoever to use such antiquated methods when much better alternatives are available, that are easier, less costly, easier to wash off, and are nowhere near such a nuisance. I appreciate your faithful adherence to tradition, but lubing cases is not dry fly fishing, and there is no cult associated with lubing cases that needs historic preservation. Understand that the best lube is the one that gets the job done with the least physical presence and minimal viscosity.
@@SomeGuyInSandy I agree with you, i like DCL lube its a lanolin case lube, i spray in a bag then i never dent cases because i use mutch less in a closed bag. I would die if would have to use Lee shit lube on like 1000 shells.
your videos are great, I'm working on watching all of them. I was my resized cases in Dawn before I load them, did I hear you correctly that you wash your loaded cases in water and Dawn, you don't have any fear of possible water contamination to your loaded rounds. I know primers and bullets are seated tight but there could be a chance of water getting in.
I'm curious as to your view on not using graphite on your cases. I have a .338LM and had a heck of a job lubricating the neck just the right amount , with a fraction too much and the shoulder would pop. No lube would put too much strain on the brass and the press. I tried placing the case mouth onto the lube mat which added a tiny consistent amount onto the inside and outside which worked OK. This was until I used graphite dusted ceramic balls, just dip the case neck in the balls and it lubricates inside and out and the case and the loader handle like a dream every time. I have been reloading for 30 years and loaded many cases/calibres, but the .338 is by far the fiddliest/most sensitive I have struck .... until now that is.
Try the Lee lube, and use as I demonstrated. I would be VERY surprised if you had any issues. It's made for drawing metal in industrial applications (made by Castrol) and is absolutely the best lubricant that I have ever used. When allowed to dry, it will work on case necks, inside and out.
I evenly distribute my case lube on my index, middle finger and thumb.... place a very small dab on your index finger and distribute. Coat the whole case even the shoulder and neck. I get no dings or dimples at all.
Good video. Some of those...petroleum-based, I don't think I'd ever use though. For clarification, did you say "never use graphite" on the outside of cases for full length resizing...or are you averse to using it for case necks too? I really like the Lee case lube myself. If I do large quantities, I will use the homemade lanolin/iso-heet spray. However, I then wet tumble them after resizing to remove any possibility of it inside the case, necks and primer pockets. I'm sure that additional step would drive most people crazy!
I noticed some cases in the shaken container had a clump of lube in the throat. - apparently that is not an issue. Guessing the Dawn wash takes care of excess.
Tossing cases works particularly well with Lee case lubricant, though it would not be recommended for many other lubes. It's an industrial metal forming lubricant that works whether wet or dry, and it dries quite quickly. As such, it's well dried before powder charging, and harmless to powder, should any small amount get inside the case. Hydraulic case dents to the shoulders occur with any wet or greasy lubricants, which is not the situation with the dried film of Lee case lube. Of course, the operator must always be vigilant to remove excess of any kind before proceeding. Dawn is used only on fully loaded, completely watertight rounds.
you are a wonderful teacher. you put a large amount of information into a condensed amount of time without anything useless.
I’ve been reloading for almost 10 years. And I learned SO much from this video! I wish he was my grandfather!
You are quickly becoming my go to advisor and I am in my 73rd year. Thank you so much. Dr. K
Years pass and all your videos are still helping countless people. I look at the stats as I type this, and I see you have something upwards of 51,000 subscribers, this video has been viewed by 24,587 times, and yet only 617 people clicked thumbs up / like. I have to assume that is just because folks have come to simply _expect_ interesting, informative, and well narrated videos from you, and so they just take them for granted. Expecting good as only normal is a compliment in itself.
As far as the 15 thumbs down / dislikes - those clearly must be from owners and employees of various overpriced case lube companies. You are costing them money. :-)
Thank you sir. Great vid and I feel like I'm 12 back at my grandpas work bench watching him explain reloading 30 06. I thank you for that. God bless and great knowledge
I am amazed at the amount of information I just absorbed in just 38 minutes. Thank you, sir!
Good on you Gun Blue.Ive been shooting all my life since i was 3 years old and reloading for the past 45 years and your video has shown me that Ive been wasting a lot of time lubing cases individually and cleaning them individually.Thanking you for another great video and God Bless you and your family.
Still relevant! I just started delving into .223 with my LM. Faced with the, apparently common, issue of stuck cases, I got to the point where I was spraying enuff lanolin mix on them to oil up a good sized sumo, and spraying on a coat of one-shot too! Still had stuck cases. A tube of Lee lube, a tub, and a little experimentation to make sure I am using enough and problem solved. Thanks
I try to watch at least 1 video of yours a week, they're long but very detailed and informative. I'm glad I watched this, I just started getting into reloading and this is probably going to save me money, and be less wasteful
As a new handloader, I appreciate the knowledge shared on this video.
Started reloading in the late 1970s. Went with the standard RCBS stuff to put on their pad and was very dissatisfied with it, gummy junk. Perhaps I used too much but eventually it built up in my die and I was experiencing dents when reloading for .25-20WIN. Cleaned my die(s) with brake cleaner spray and blown out with compressed air. Repeated with rubbing alcohol and air to make sure all was clean and dry. Then I went with the thinner Dillon pump spray and have had zero problems since. You are slowly changing me and now I will try this Lee resizing goop. THANK YOU. Old dogs can learn new tricks. Luckily I have never experienced a stuck case(except in a .223/5.56 chamber). I sure never want that headache!
All my pistol dies and some of my rifle dies are carbide. For those rifle calibers that have carbide dies I still lube about 20% of my cases in fear of a stuck case. Maybe I don't need it but I find it makes all the resizing smooth as butter. Butter! Now that's an idea, "organic" and I can lick the cases clean! Vegans can use coconut butter.
I'm always learning new tidbits and tricks, and love learning about how you're saving money with Lee Products by watching your channel.
This is becoming one of my favorites. You actually LEARN something. Am thinking about a "one load for everything" concept. Become "field familiar" with this load, be ready the day I can afford to hunt dangerous game in Alaska.
Sir! You've enriched the experience of my introduction. To this rewarding pastime.
By removing the mysterious veneer.
Of the volumeous knowledge required.
To safely conduct our activities.
Kudos and bravo Zulu.
Thanks Chief. Fond regards sir.
Thank you sir! I sat down at my computer looking for a more efficient way to lube my brass with the Lee lube and you provided the answer...godspeed.
You sir are a good Elmer! Much appreciate you passing on your knowledge to us wipper snappers, and making the follow generation better for it.
Wow. Your videos are so informative. Thank you for taking the time to do this. It really helps a relatively new reloader like myself.
I too really like the wipe-on lubricants as opposed to the sprays; I just lost too many cases to dents with sprays, though they are convenient. Imperial Wax for me; I like how it just wipes off with a microfiber rag, and as with the Lee, you just need a tiny, tiny amount.
I do also like the dry neck lube that you apply using a small tub of ceramic balls; very convenient method. If your necks are very clean, as happens with wet tumbling or ultrasonic cleaning, they can be a bit tight through the expander ball, even with a carbide expander -- the dry lube really helps with that situation.
+1 on RCBS Imperial Sizing Wax and the graphite in clay balls stuff for inside the neck. Graphite first or you’ll have a ball of goo quickly.
Lee, says to thin this lube with water or alcohol. Alcohol is better it evaporates quicker. Can also use it wet. Best on the market.
I'm always amazed by your knowledge,patience, and attention to detail. How does it feel to be still that good, at your stage in life. Believe me, I didn't know the best way to word that compliment. Thanks for your willingness to share knowledge. It has helped, greatly.
I came a little late to reloading but man I love your videos , your so informative, I'm learning and I really soak up you're videos. Please keep them up 🙏 thanks
Welcome to the channel, and thank you.
great video, I use the Lee case lube myself, I last bought a tube in 2012 2k + 40 S&W, 1k 45 acp, 2k 45 colt, looks like I will have to get another tube this year. 2019
great info site. been reloading over 40 years but still learn more here. subscribed
Good video. I'm a BIG fan of the Imperial Sizing Die wax, which I believe has a lanolin base. It's "perfect", just like all of the rest of them! :)
As an Engineer I appreciate your common sense! Redding sells a dry graphite neck lube. It works well for me.
Your videos are excellent! I've learned so much from you and I'm not expecting my press and reloading supplies to be delivered until Saturday , LOL
Thank you so much for your videos! I got a little over ambitious with the amount of lee lube today. With the size of a almond of lee lube tried to resize 150 223 cases and had my first stuck case lol got it take care of and realized It was my fault lol keep up the great videos!
You're my boy, Blue! You're my boy.
Thank you for patient way of presenting different products. My first time watching you and I am informed. Thanks again.
Brilliant video was having problems with stuck cases in 223 and 243 useing spray lube had some lee lubricant but was using it all wrong just putting around the neck applied it to the case as you did and I have not had a problem.
Thank you Steve Shipley UK.
This is a MARVELOUS video - keeping it real and in perspective, almost always lacking in other videos. I do find it interesting with your "reveal" of the Castrol Iloform PS700 drawing paste - looking at the MSDS they write, "Not recommended for yellow metal." And still, hard to argue with the results, right ? There is the saying, "He who says it can't be done, should step aside for one who is doing it." Thank you ! For anyone so interested, they also say (as Lee now prints on their packaging) that this can be diluted with water (Lee says "four parts water"). The Castrol MSDS explicitly states that when diluting, (they call it "extending") water should be added slowly to the paste while mixing, and never add the paste to the water. This is curious for a chemist anyway, as we learn that just the opposite is generally true, with the nemonic "one can add a substance to the river - one cannot add the river to the substance".
And again, I've learned something. Actually several things about reloading.
You sir are a wealth of useful information thank you and God Bless!
Very helpful video. I especially like the tip for lubing then cleaning multiple cases. Thanks!
Thank you so much. I've been asking myself the same questions the past month processing brass.
Very instructive. I am about to begin reloading 223 which will be my first rifle rounds to prep and reload. I am reloading for accuracy in a bolt action that I want to use in 3 gun matches. I have a progressive Dillon 550 press and am trying to come up with minimal but necessary steps for the whole process.
My idea is to take uncleaned previously fire formed brass from my rifle and
1. Mass lube, resize and deprime
2. Wet tumble to clean lube off and get primer pockets cleaner
3. Swage primer pocket (if necessary) and trim if necessary, deburr case mouth
4. Simply run remaining steps of priming only in station one, drop powder in station 2, seat bullet in station 3 and finally crimp in station 4 if necessary.
My only concern is not cleaning cases prior to resizing and depriming. I don't think that will be an issue. BTW, I want to wet tumble as that is how I prep my 9mm cases which I reload about 1000/month. Your thoughts.
Prioritize things in a different order. Case preparation comes before anything, and the first order of case prep is not cleaning. Primer pocket cleaning receives incredible press, but is 100 percent waste of time, so I wouldn't fuss over it. I shoot benchrest accuracy with my rifles and stopped doing it 40 years ago. Mixed brass have far more velocity variations than any other irregularities! First, cull out any military cases and separate them aside. Buy a simple one-stage press and mount a Lee universal decapping die on it, and run all your crimped military cases through it, then swage them. Trim all cases to length. NOW is the time to clean them. I dry tumble all my cases in walnut media, and it's perfect. I see absolutely no purpose for fussing over this extraordinarily unimportant and overblown part of the reloading procedure. Like dirty primer pockets, dirty interiors make no difference whatsoever. It's just a powder compartment, and burnng powder granules could care less and are not going to change their burning rate or efficiency. Does a person polish the inside of his wood stove every night before adding logs? I vastly prefer Lee case lube to ANY other lube, and I've used them all. A very, very, very, little goes a long way. You can thin it with a small amount of alcohol. Just put all your cases in a plastic tub with a lid on it and shake them with the lube until each case has a haze on them. A haze, not a layer. Allow for the haze to dry. It may take as much as two minutes on a bad day. Load them through all stages of the Dillon. When done, your ammo is completely water proof. Put them all back into that lubrication tub and fill it with warm water and a few drops of Dawn dish detergent. Use both hands to agitate them thoroughly until squeaky clean. Rinse completely. Spread out on a large bath towel and dry them off. Typing this took longer than doing it.
A nice segue from your 270 super accurate ammo series! I use the Dillon lanolin mixture and spritz it on rifle cases. Now I have a use for that very old can of Crisco and maybe even some bacon grease!
GunBlue- I highly recommend you to a serious look at Browning's ABolt III if you find yourself itching for a new rifle. I've found their design overwhelmingly intriguing and probably will set the standard for some years to come, and your mechanical knowledge on firearm assembly and employment would give viewers a standing room only audience.
I will have to take a look at one soon. No particular itches at this moment!
I use common coconut oil. I apply either with fingertips (like lube wax) or roll on a pad. Very inexpensive, clean, easy to wipe off (removes residues on the case too). You only need a very little to get butter-smooth FL resizing.
I use RCBS Case Lube 2 (water-based) for neck lube just before sizing with a nylon bore brush. The coconut oil is too oily for inside the neck.
After sizing, I roll the cases on a terrycloth towel, heat them up and shake them for a few seconds.
Simple, easy-peasy! Try it and you will abandon all other case lubes.
Awesome videos. So glad i found your channel.
I’ll keep watching
Great Apron!!!I live down by New Orleans and Love Muffulettas from Central Grocery when I go down to the French Quarter.. I am enjoying your Re-loading videos and getting a lot of info!!! Thanks!!
Cough, Cough...retrieves jaw from lap....YOU SOLD YOUR 7-08? Where's my nitro? Someone call the nurse? I can't see the numbers on the phone to call for 911....on a side note- Indeed, Lee's Lube is the tried and true goto product. May God Bless You & Yours for many many to come-
1 part of lanolin / 8 to 12 part of isopropanol alcohol (depend of the consistancy you want), works very well (that's probably the same recipe than Dillon and RCBS case lube, and certainly others)
Yes, it's the most messy, antiquated, costly, difficult to remove, and unnecessary lubricant ever devised. The ONLY lube I have used for 20 years and which I assuredly advise over any other, is Lee case lube. It's an industrial metal FORMING lubricant, made specifically for extreme pressure forming, it's extremely efficient, requiring a bare trace, it is super cheap and economical (one small tube lasts me for 3 years), it's water soluble, and washes off with warm water and dish detergent, or it can be wiped off with a wet cloth, and it works wet or dry. It's superior to anything I have ever used, because it's the only lubricant that started life as a metal reforming lube and not as boot wax or hair grease (that's where the lanolin recipe came from). I have used every possible lubricant available, including the ancient lanolin recipe, and I have used the best and the worst, and have sized big 30-06 cases down to 22-250 cases, and I know what works. The last lubricant I would ever recommend is that lanolin recipe or any of those gunky commercial versions used by your great great grandfather to keep his hair down and his mustache up.
Yes, but I wonder how toxic that stuff is??
@@GunBlue490As a former lanolin case lube guy, I couldn’t agree with you more. Thank you for educating me - again!
I am a neophyte to reloading which means I'm impressionable to the experienced folks to whom I have access. Thankfully the Lord has given me a measure of common sense and I consider myself using it well, when I gravitate toward these types of instructionals. I know the point you were conveying in this video, but I think I'll leave the gear oil in my gear box, leave the bearing grease on my spindles, the shortening in the kitchen, and the toxic substances in things that it is needed for. That leaves the water based waxy substance that will last me 5 years at the cost of $5.00. The substance that won't get sprayed all over my workspace or cause powder charges to lose uniformity. I just bought four tubes of Lee Resizing Lube. One less decision where I don't have to spend a lot for better performance. Thank you and may God bless!
Very interesting video. Informative, straightforward, and pragmatic. Thanks for the tips on how to be time efficient without the use of aerosols.
Well sir, you've opened my eyes. The tube of Lee resizing lubricant that I ordered up to try arrived today. Much nicer to use than the Imperial that I normally use, and the option to use it either wet or dry is handy. I find it to wipe off just as easily with the microfiber rag I normally use. Sure glad I gave it a try.
Allan Bazinet
The microfiber is great for a few, but may I suggest the following. Loaded ammo is totally waterproof. Place the ammo in the same plastic container that is used to coat the brass for sizing. Put a squirt of Dawn dish detergent in and fill with hot, not scalding water, suds up and agitate for 30 seconds or so, just like doing silverware. Rinse thoroughly and dump onto a heavy towell, and dry. I've done as many as two hundred 223 rounds at a time that way, and it makes short work of an otherwise tedious job, and they sparkle!
That’s a brilliant video. Very useful. You have earned yourself a subscriber 😁
When resizing 200 pieces of mil-surp once fired 50 BMG brass that had been shot in a loose chamber machine gun, I got a good lesson in resizing lube. You do NOT want to get one of those stuck in a resizing die. I actually found that the best lube for volume applications was synthetic motor oil, because it was the easiest to apply by hand. Now, I use my rotary tumbler for most reloading chores and a lot of other shop purposes as well. It's great for lubing brass similar to the shaken tub method you showed in the video. I use two gallon wide mouth plastic jugs, and they're each dedicated to a certain task so I never need to clean them to use them for something else. I also tumble clean the brass to remove the case lube. I have jugs for cold bluing steel parts, powder coating cast bullets (a real time saver and great quality), etc.
The video didn't mention lubing the inside of the case neck, and that's not a problem when sizing 7mm down to 6mm, but in the normal resizing process the neck is undersized a bit and then expanded back out, and a tiny bit of lube for the case neck expander is a good thing. Lee recommends wiping a tiny bit across the neck after rolling the outside of the brass between your finger and thumb to lube the outside of the case using their case lube.
The point is to lubricate as necessary, and however necessary, but not because it's a religion. Lubrication issues are of two types: None and too much. I have never used a case lubricant that worked finer than the Lee lubricant, which is an industrial metal drawing product made by Castrol, just for metal drawing. You can put as much on as you like, and will not collapse shoulders when used dry, inside and out.
I too have had very good luck with Lee case lube. I particularly like that it's easy to remove with water. It's also great that it's so cheap. I've used Castrol synthetic oil because it was easier to apply by hand, but I'll tumble lube rifle cases in a manner that is the automated version pf your tumble lube method, even though I was surprised at how quickly you were able to tumble them by hand. I may just keep a gallon jug next to the reloading bench rather than mess with the tumbler. I also love how the Lee lubed brass quickly dries and isn't wet and sticky to handle. Thanks again for the great video.
Have used Lee lubricant thinned with alcohol in a small spray bottle to spritz cases 2 or 3 squirts. You can put cases in a bowl and shake them or lay them on a shop towel or lube pad to spread the lube. Twenty five percent lube to seventy five percent alcohol works well and the alcohol evaporates quickly. A tube of Lee lube lasts me about 10 years.
Fantastic information thank you sir keep up the good work 👍
Regarding the Lee lube: I live in an arid climate, and it seams that allowing it to dry between one and three hours seems to be perfect. I'm using a Lee Hand Press, and the effort needed to pull the ram back down increases greatly if it dries more.
Great video, you answered many questions. Crisco I didn't know about.
Thank you for taking the time and the detail. I alway learn something new whenI watch your videos and I like your no nonsense style. 😎👍
Always informative. Appreciate the videos
No one ever told me to not lube the shoulder? Do we also not lube the neck? I have learned a lot from your video's! I shoot F-Class T/R with Win .308 and a 6.5-06 out of 32inch cut rifled barrel in Unlimited. Always learning. I use a single shot rifled slug gun 12ga., 10/22 and 45/70 Lever Action for hunting. My Dad was self taught and he taught me so we are always learning! Thanks for your video's!
buckaroobonsi555
Any wet lubrication of the outside of the neck will gather onto the shoulder, which can create hydraulic compression between the shoulder and die and make wrinkles or dents. The sharper shouldered cases are more prone to such issues. That's why I prefer Lee case lube, which I can toss on the entire case, and allow to dry, eliminating the hydraulic effect. If tossed wet, just wipe the neck and shoulder off. Good old case lube pads sold everywhere are great for small amounts of cases, as they allow you to roll half a dozen cases neatly, where no lube contacts the shoulder. I used them for many years and they were foolproof.
Yes my Dad and I use Lee Case Lube. We use a Lee Anniversary set to develop loads than a DIllion 550B to mass produce them after we work up a good load. Sinclair is just too expensive for me so I use Lee and Hornady and RCBS dies in that order. I compete on a budget. I go their to win obviously but I am not willing to spend what it would cost to be truly competitive plus I have to work and go to school etc....I am not retired so I cannot sit around shooting and reloading all day like some of those retired Doctors, Lawyers and Engieers.....LOL Most of all I do it to have fun.
I sometimes get dents on the shoulders when reloading 300 Win Mag for my Dad. I am guessing I am over lubing and I need to stop lubing the short neck and the shoulder. Thanks!
Good video and loved watching the Holly Cross on your bench.
I did not think Crisco would work so well. I use with my black powder guns never thought it would work for sizing cases. I am starting to get the feeling a lot of specialty products you see people selling really arn't needed.
Thank you sir, you have been a wealth of help. Cheers from Australia 👍
I'm going to have to try this again. Years back, I tried running a 30-06 case through the 270 Win. dies to shrink it down. However, it was a bear to do. I got half way through the stroke on the press when it became stuck, and I do mean stuck. I had to literally put all my weight on the lever to complete the re-size. I was very fearful of breaking the press. The press didn't break, however, but I got a pretty significant dent in the mid section of the case. Worried about having pressure issues from the damaged case, I loaded it with a lite load and fire formed it.
At 34:23 of the video, showing cases lubed with Lee paste, I see what looks like an unfired primer in one of the cases. Your Lee resizing die also looks like it has the de-priming pin/expander in place. Driving out an unfired primer would be dangerous. Please explain.
It's actually not unsafe at all, for a very basic reason. Understand that the decapping pin presses on the anvil of the primer, which is not the same as the firing pin striking the cup, which pinches the priming compound. This was explained to me many years ago. I have actually decapped many hundreds of unfired primers in my life for one reason or another, without one ever going off. However, I have had a few detonate while inserting, not removing primers, especially in the days when some primers were made with domed tops, before being flat. In the event that one might detonate, it would simply fire into the die harmlessly, and the primer would go downward. I certainly advise that everyone wear glasses while reloading.
Yes, yet another great vid. I was wondering if you could help me understand something better? I was quite surprised when you didn't lube the neck area. I understand watching your video the concerns shoulder with denting. When you run that case into the die I would expect the neck to be experiencing the most deformation since it's being squeezed down to a smaller caliber. How come no lube is required here? Is it because the smaller surface area doesn't generated enough surface tension to cause problems? Sorry if I'm geeking out just trying to understand it a little better and you're the only one who explains these things real clear! BTW, thanks for making me smarter....
Never, ever, lube above the shoulder of the case, which causes hydraulic dents, except with very light amounts of tossed Lee lube or similar drying lubricant when allowed to fully dry. Lubrication has nothing to do with the effects of case stretching nor the mechanical function of sizing. It is only used to prevent seizure in the die. The small surface area and ductility of the neck and shoulder provide the means to resize that section without lube. It is the hard case body that gets stuck. Even dry lubes, when used excessively, will dent cases when applied on the neck or shoulder. A very light amount may be applied with a nylon case neck brush to the inside of the neck, if the sizing ball is sticking. Apply lubrication only to the body of the case, using the lightest possible application, but NEVER to the neck and shoulder.
Very educational video thank you for it. I do have a question, what would happen if you accidentally loaded that resized round into 7 mm-08 and fired it?
Excellent.... this. Explains. Many. Things..8. And. That. Mostly .. You. Don.t. need. To. Fear. These. Things. Just. Pay. Attention.. to. Instructions ... and. The. Finest. Of. Details... look. For.... And. Notice. Differences.... then. Use. These. Things...To. their. Maximum.. potential... as. Often. As. Physically. Possible. Good. Craftsmanship....takes. care... and. Experience... that. Will. Produce. The. Quality. Needed..... thankyou. Very. Much... and. Have. A. Nice. Day....
what about the case lube one would get on the neck during the Bulk Lubing Process? (by the way,I really enjoyed seeing that Central Grocery apron!).
I agree 100% with the Lee lube. Crisco? You can't even make decent pastry with that. Lard is king.
Do you use the neck brush in addition to running brass through a tumbler?
Many thanks! You helped me eliminate case dents!
I spray my Tupperware container with Pam nonstick cooking spray put my brass inside put the lid on and shake it and never had a problem
I love your channel I used to reload constantly rifle and shotgun being born and raised in NV I had a lot of areas to shoot my dad's reloader had this sticky carp for a lube. I don't remember why I tried it but I took a plastic case that held electrical tape. I filled one have of the case with powdered graphite to my kneck depth for my 243 and dipped it in I never used anything else again my brass lasted forever and even full re s sizing took half the effort I'm going to get back into reloading now that I'm retired and I'm going to try hexagonal born the nickname for it is white graphite maybe I almost caused an atomic explosion but it worked great with no buildup and being graphite a wipe down before putting it in the box give it a try on a small batch and see what you think thanks for the great videos
2 questions. I read that you need to use carbide dies to reload nickel plated brass, but you said not to use on tapered cases. And you said to never put lube on the necks, but when you mass lube you're getting lube on the necks. How do you handle these issues?
I had heard about the STP lube trick about 30 years ago...been wanting to try it but i havent ran out of the current case lube yet! 😂
For case lube I use a mixture of HEET carb cleaner and Lanolin. I get the Lanolin from the local health food store and HEET from the local auto parts store. Mix a whole bottle of HEET with a quarter bottle of Lanolin and put into a spray bottle. I then take a couple of hundred cases and put them in a plastic drum with a clean rag sprayed with the HEET/Lanolin. Shake for a minute or two and you will have perfectly lubed cases.
Cases sprayed with this stay lubed for a long time. This mixture is the same stuff that a lot of manufacturers use like Dillon. The HEET evaporates quickly and the Lanolin lubes the cases as good as or better than commercially available products at a much lower cost. 2 bucks for HEET and about 5 bucks for Lanolin for thousands of rounds of reloading!
HEET is 91% isopropyl alcohol. Iso is cheaper than HEET.
Like SomeGuyInSandy said , I have heard about the lanolin and alcohol method , and no where on YT did anyone say things were as easy as you showed and explained . Thank you so much for the awesome info and en depth descriptions of what you actually do . Thank you so much for sharing your wealth of knowledge with us , keep up the great work , have fun and be safe .
Donald R
I apply a standard rule of thumb in my life. I consistently find that simplicity is inversely proportional to the complications described. To put it another way; the more complex and confusing an issue appears, the easier and less complex it really is. My grandmother taught me not to make mountains out of molehills, and to find more constructive things to do with my time than to invent trouble.
I appreciate that , thank you again . Your grandfather was very right on that point , about not making mountains out of mole hills . I also like the idea of Keep It Simple , the KISS method of things, yeah , I know other words go into the saying , but some can just be really derogatory . Thank you again , love your videos , have watched almost all of them over the past few months .
Thanks for your support.
Do you have any videos on full length resizing and bumping the shoulder of your brass I'm having a problem where my cases are getting stuck in the chamber I'm shooting a 220 Swift and have trimmed all the cases to spec but they're still getting stuck in the chamber so I figured the shoulder needs to be bumped could I have your opinion on this matter it seems I'm always going. I always reference your videos if I want to do something you seem to be very knowledgeable
Appreciate your video's. Very informative, and thank you!
Thank you for this video, Sir. It has a lot of good information.
I'm going to size a bunch of new .30-'06 brass up to .338-'06 A-Square, and I'm wondering if I need to also use a very small amount of lube on the inside of the case mouths(as well as the outside of the case walls) when I do this. These cases haven't been annealed yet, and I'm assuming that there was a small amount of work - hardening that occurred when they were formed at the factory. Is annealing something that should be done, and how often?
Thanks again for your channel, and for your help!
I liked the, I think it's made by Hornady...One Shot spray lube. You could lube lots of cases really fast. Recently I have been introduced to Imperial Sizing Wax and a neck lube called Redding Imperial Convenien........be Plus Application Media. I typed this exactly as it reads on the tube it comes in. These two lubes are great!! It takes just a hint to lube the case and I don't know how the necks get lubed but they do. Not as fast as One Shot but a lot less messy and easy to wipe clean with a cloth. Thanks for the video Cap.
Can you use Ballistol as a case lube using the formula of one quarter cup Ballistol to three quarters cup of
water as the company says for treating metal and leather?
Great video as usual. Can a carbide resizing die be used on a slightly tapered 'straight-wall' case like a 350 legend?
Great video! Learned a lot from it.
You have really proven a point. I will be spraying my lube pad with Amsoil firearm lube.
Finally found someone who mentions that carbide tubes are only available in one diameter and therefore carbide dies are not available in the likes of a 223 neckdown. Thanks....
Your an excellent teacher!
I use the Lee sizing lube but for years used beeswax based boot water proofing.
Aerosol spray works great if you barely spray the inside of a big ziplock bag, then pour in your brass and roll it around. Doesn't get on the inside of the brass. Coats very well, and it last forever.
I do the same thing, it works great, requires a minimum amount of aerosol, it is fast and efficient
How about Redding Imperial Sizing Wax, can it be cleaned off cases via the Dawn soap method you describe?
Have you ever used Imperial sizing lube? Also about the static electricity I heard you could use a dryer sheet to help the problem is that true? Thank you for your valuable time and information!
I know you can answer this. I had a bunch of once used .223 brass I shot out of my S&W AR15 Sport. I reloaded all of it in my Lee Turret press and have used some of it in the same S&W with no problem. However, I built an AR with a Wylde bore and most of this ammo will not extract. In fact, I have to use a soft mallet to extract it by tapping on the recharge handle. The Wylde chamber leaves some score marks about 2/3 of the way down the case even though I ran the cases through a Lee Resizing Die. I don't understand why the cases are too large. I thought the resizing die would have taken care of this.
That was my first thought. I have the Lee Ultimate Die set that comes with both full length & neck dies. I used the full length sizer. I checked against the instructions & Lee website (i leave it mounted in the turret). I suppose if the case was not pressed all the way into the die the lower part of the case would not get resized. I do not think this happened but that would be a possible explanation. I cannot think of an alternative. If the case was pressed all the way into the die I don't see how it could not be the appropriate size. I'm puzzled.
Yes, I can. Sizing dies are typically made to maximum SAAMI chamber standards so resized brass typically fits more snugly than factory brass (good thing), which must be made to minimum dimensions to fit every chamber. Wylde chambers are hybrid custom chambers, and may be minimum chambers that will only accept minimum commercial or NATO ammo. Wylde chambers are not unique in this situation, which is why some die manufacturers provide small base dies. Over the years, certain firearms, particularly Remington pumps and autos, Browning autos, and others, have had minimum chambers that would not accept traditionally resized brass. My vintage 99 Savage is one, also, where resized brass from my Lee dies barely chambered with force. I discovered that I had my die set on the press to a rather lazy adjustment, where I could see light between the die and shell holder at full extension, and was not really getting full advantage. It's still snug, but now chambers and ejects nicely as you see in my latest outdoor video. Check that first. Screw the die down beyond full extention, where you cannot compress the ram, then back off a tweak at a time until compound leverage is complete.
If that is not sufficient, you will need a small base die. Contact Lee, and see if they can ship one. I would be surprised if they could not. If not, I know that RCBS makes them, and possibly others do.
Excellent, that makes sense in light of what I am seeing. Thank you for the feedback. I learned something new about chamberings. Thank you for all your well informed vids & info.
GunBlue490 - RCBS does indeed offer small base dies. I have them in .30-06 and .308. I love RCBS. There products are sold everywhere and their customer service cannot be beat.
You know I was always told with the lee lubricant, that just a simple wiping of the case with a clean rag was sufficient enough to start reloading. Is that wrong info? With spray lubes I use a plastic sandwich bag and spray a small amount in bag and throw the brass in close it and rub them around till lightly coated, cuts down on waste and mess...
Nice video! I'm a fan of the lanolin and alcohol spray method myself. I do get a dented neck once in a while. Next time I'll try wiping the necks clean beforehand. Thanks for the tip!
SomeGuyInSandy
I'm well aware of Lanolin and alcohol, which I used in the 70s. Lanolin is one of the oldest case lubricants that was used 100 years ago, but it's unnecessarily sticky and thick, and very prone to denting cases and even distorting them. There's no need whatsoever to use such antiquated methods when much better alternatives are available, that are easier, less costly, easier to wash off, and are nowhere near such a nuisance. I appreciate your faithful adherence to tradition, but lubing cases is not dry fly fishing, and there is no cult associated with lubing cases that needs historic preservation. Understand that the best lube is the one that gets the job done with the least physical presence and minimal viscosity.
Meh, 100 years old or not, I spray on a very small amount, and run them. Pretty easy, even if it is outdated. Thanks.
@@SomeGuyInSandy I agree with you, i like DCL lube its a lanolin case lube, i spray in a bag then i never dent cases because i use mutch less in a closed bag. I would die if would have to use Lee shit lube on like 1000 shells.
your videos are great, I'm working on watching all of them. I was my resized cases in Dawn before I load them, did I hear you correctly that you wash your loaded cases in water and Dawn, you don't have any fear of possible water contamination to your loaded rounds. I know primers and bullets are seated tight but there could be a chance of water getting in.
I'm curious as to your view on not using graphite on your cases. I have a .338LM and had a heck of a job lubricating the neck just the right amount , with a fraction too much and the shoulder would pop. No lube would put too much strain on the brass and the press. I tried placing the case mouth onto the lube mat which added a tiny consistent amount onto the inside and outside which worked OK. This was until I used graphite dusted ceramic balls, just dip the case neck in the balls and it lubricates inside and out and the case and the loader handle like a dream every time. I have been reloading for 30 years and loaded many cases/calibres, but the .338 is by far the fiddliest/most sensitive I have struck .... until now that is.
Try the Lee lube, and use as I demonstrated. I would be VERY surprised if you had any issues. It's made for drawing metal in industrial applications (made by Castrol) and is absolutely the best lubricant that I have ever used. When allowed to dry, it will work on case necks, inside and out.
I evenly distribute my case lube on my index, middle finger and thumb.... place a very small dab on your index finger and distribute. Coat the whole case even the shoulder and neck. I get no dings or dimples at all.
Looks like the STP was the best.... less ram pressure
Good video. Some of those...petroleum-based, I don't think I'd ever use though. For clarification, did you say "never use graphite" on the outside of cases for full length resizing...or are you averse to using it for case necks too? I really like the Lee case lube myself. If I do large quantities, I will use the homemade lanolin/iso-heet spray. However, I then wet tumble them after resizing to remove any possibility of it inside the case, necks and primer pockets. I'm sure that additional step would drive most people crazy!
Thanks for another great video I'm going to resize some 308 brass to 7mm-08 it's cheaper to buy.
wonderfully simple. thank you
Great post👍the best on line I've seen. Thank you sirus. 🇺🇸 2A 🇺🇸
Thanks for sharing your videos and keep them coming please
I noticed some cases in the shaken container had a clump of lube in the throat. - apparently that is not an issue. Guessing the Dawn wash takes care of excess.
Tossing cases works particularly well with Lee case lubricant, though it would not be recommended for many other lubes. It's an industrial metal forming lubricant that works whether wet or dry, and it dries quite quickly. As such, it's well dried before powder charging, and harmless to powder, should any small amount get inside the case.
Hydraulic case dents to the shoulders occur with any wet or greasy lubricants, which is not the situation with the dried film of Lee case lube. Of course, the operator must always be vigilant to remove excess of any kind before proceeding. Dawn is used only on fully loaded, completely watertight rounds.
Ever tried Hornady One-Shot Case Lube on your bottleneck cases?Apparently so because you just brought it up.I use it on ALL of my Match .308 ammo.