At 68 years old one of my greatest pleasures is listening to someone that knows what they are talking about speak about the things I love, a lifetime of shooting and handloading
You are such a joy to listen to. Reminds me of my Dad and his friend from many, many years ago. This is the way knowledge was passed down from Father to son. Tradition. So much hype today on the Internet. Core values, teachings and meanings. Bless you Sir for keeping the tradition alive!
Thankfully, I had found your channel before I delved into rifle reloading. Knowing that this video is a recap of content already covered several years prior, the results from that content that I had learned from you are results that I have been very happy with. I didn't buy all of the high-cost gimmickries often sold out there. I have now seen that many such products would have broken my blue-collar wallet, put me on a path of complication and frustration, and wasted a lot of time and resources. I'll say it again, I am very happy with the results! My last loadings had me shooting sub .5 MOA and I found that load in less than 30 incremental loads! I consider that very good indeed. A million thanks captain for all the firearm wisdom that I have gleaned. God Bless!
I really appreciate your no-nonsense approach to everything. When I started down the road of reloading and shooting, I watched many channels but was unimpressed with some of the illogical advice and straight up stupid claims. Then I found your channel and have continued to watch and learn for several years. Thank God for your friend and companion, Benney. It is great to hear him and see him after the big scare years ago.
Thank your for sharing all your knowledge gained throughout your years of shooting and reloading. You are never preachy like other writers and always calm and articulate.
You sir are a wealth of information and knowledge. I'm 50 years old been hunting since I was ten and reloading since I was 15. Sitting at my bench and for nostalgia reasons loading some 303 brit. We farm out here in Canada which gives me the ability to have my own range. Story time! I have a friend that has a friend! (I don't know this person) but he bought a tikka t3 300wsm forest hunter stock stainless beautiful piece of equipment. Came to my range and was livid it would not shoot sub moa as guaranteed. (180gn winchester power point) is all he could get at the shop. I tried to explain to him that when tikka does this it's in a controlled environment with there ammo. To him this did not make sense. On the spot he sold me the rifle ( maybe it was kick he didn't like) long story short I have this rifle to .455 moa nothing past 3 rounds due to heat then she starts to open up. Point being. Don't give up read your manuals listen to real world experience the reloading world is shrinking due to convenience. Hunting, shooting, reloading is a art. And needs to be treated that way. This video made my day. Thank you
I am surprised how few people in the US and Canada seem to reload. Here in the UK it's almost obligatory unless you only occasionally hunt deer. If you target shoot there is no option. Do many more possibilities to tune your loads if you reload.
After I made that statement I started to reminisce. I remember as I was a kid my grandfather and his colleagues having loading "parties" talking hunting,loading, farming etc.... same as my father did and my father in law. Now it's just me. It truly is a art that unfortunately is dying off.
@@303parkerhale Great having the space to shoot and other people interested in the same thing. In the UK if you're into shooting you're definitely on the fringe, reloading is not something that most even know exists. It's gradually being squeezed out and it's all political. At least I can enjoy it for now, hopefully I've got another 20+ years enjoying it. I had to learn what I could from books back in the 90's, the internet has helped tremendously.
Proverbs 27:17 Iron sharpeneth iron; So a man sharpeneth the countenance of his friend. Whoso keepeth the fig tree shall eat the fruit thereof: So he that waiteth on his master shall be honoured. Thank you for another wonderful lesson.
Suggestion: Take your videos and make DVD’s. I would pay top dollar. I would rather you get payed for all your knowledge.Always worried the Utube will take them down someday. Great video as always.
His free offering of his lifetime of wealth of knowledge makes him that much more valuable to the shooting community. He is immeasurable by the dollar but donate to his patreon!
You know that would be a fantastic opportunity 25 years ago lol. You can download his videos at rip them to a thumb drive or hard drive. Just give his patreon a tip. I'm going to.
Whenever I need an answer for anything firearm related, I find the answer in this site. I find answers for 99.9 percent of any questions I need answers for. This encyclopedia of firearm information has carried me through many years and kept me from making some really dumb things. It has also me aware of information that I should but didn't know.
I've been reloading 25+ years, and this guy is 100% right, no lies, no BS. I learn something every time I watch one of his vdeos. This video is an amazing resource, as knowledge is perishable, and must be updated frequently. Thank you, sir.
I really wish I'd had this sort of info years ago, when I was chasing ALL sorts of powders and bullets for an accurate hunting load for my .30-06. Now, starting the process all over again with a .30-30 lever gun, this helps a ton!!! Thank you for this video!!
Spot on. When I first started handloading I was pretty much broke most of the time, using a couple of gifted loading presses. I'd buy a pound of whatever powder the manual had listed, then work up a reasonably accurate load. Over several decades of loading one learns how to streamline the process of load work up, not by much, but better, none the less. You start looking for additional features in powders, low flash, clean burning, consistency in powder charge with progressive presses while still maintaining accuracy. These days it's not difficult to find powders that do all of these. Each firearm is unique, I tend to set goals that work in multiple weapons of the same caliber. I've been reasonably successful, ragged one hole groups at 7yds for my carry guns, sub MOA at 200yds for my .223 varmint AR's. I burned through many varieties of powder to find what works for me. Could it have been easier? Heck yeah, but I wouldn't have the first hand knowledge from experience, that also makes it enjoyable to learn from others first hand knowledge. So, thank you.
One thing i do is look at the charges compared to the pressure. If you have a lower charge, with the same velocity but a higher pressure, then it's a faster burning powder than the other.
My first attempts at reloading resulted in squibs, I think about one half dozen. So I stopped trying to reload in fear that I would do damage or cause serious injury to myself. If I can muster the courage to try again I will because I do like long range percision. Thank you.
I use same lee 4 hole and manual with great results just need to make my bench more solid …I haistly mounted it to get loadin and gives too much on the edge…thank you so much for your time and efforts….matt
I came for the knowledge and stayed for Benny. I just picked up a 9.3 and am excited to go through this process with my ADI manual. Thanks for all of your hard work.
What works for me is I start with min load on the data . And see what powders to use and see what I have and use 4 powders to test and see what one will group the best. And work with tge one that is the best. Thanks for going into details like you did . I learned alot .
Blue this is a excellent video. Your explanation of powder choice goes beyond words. The only reason i keep older manuals is for powder that the mfgs have dropped from they're list as usable powder, ie Greendot in .45acp. Most excellent job.
Happened to find your channel a few days ago.. wow. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with a straight forward no nonsense personable delivery. Quite refreshing in these times. Thanks again...
Nice video! I had a real pressure issue with H380 in my 6.5x55 due to ambient temperature change. This happened about 30 years ago and I have avoided it ever since.
Well, you have done it again! I really like the concept of a "composite group." Very clever and certainly lends more insight into your loads. Selecting from the top third of powders in my bullet range will help narrow my selection for powder next time too! However, the real gem for me was how to determine incremental loads and then to fine tune around the best group. I see this saving some rounds in the future. Good, solid, practical advice. You just can't ask for any better. Thank you!
I would like to see the manufacturers focus on fewer powders and prime variations and produce more quantities of those to get us out of this shortage and reduce cost.
@@GunBlue490 is it? I work at a gun store in TX, primers and powder are no longer available like they were 2-3 yrs ago. Used to keep piles of the stuff no prob. Now there is none to order.
I own a 1874 Pedersoli Sharps in 45-70, with a 34" barrel. I originally intended to shoot black powder only through the rifle: However, I would like to try a hand load for it. I previously used H4198 in hand loads for my Marlin 1895. The difference is 12" of barrel length. I would like to take advantage of the extra length by using a slower powder. I contacted Hodgdon and they said I should stick to H4198 or IMR 4198. Those powders are the best suited for that cartridge design. That will only give me a modest 100 fps more velocity and therefore it doesn't take advantage of the extra length. I have to be careful to stay below the SAAMI 2,800 p.s.i. standard for both rifles, so adding more 4198 is out of the question. Is there a slower burning powder I can try or am I stuck with the 4198 powders, which were designed to burn in a much shorter barrel? Thanks
Thank you Sir for the information. Great Video as always. Now more than ever it is good to have a solid plan for how to work up a load with powder price and availability. I appreciate these videos Sir. Blessings in Christ from Northern Maine.
Thanks for that info. Will save me some powder. Great formula. I enjoy reloading and get great results once I find the bullet my guns like best. Great video.
Hey I sent a photo shot of the text I received. But I deleted the Telegram app. I know you don't get something for nothing. At least I never have. Thanks
thank you for your uploads gunblue good to be able to do something with firearms without having to constantly spend money, do you have any advice on cleaning black powder firearms
When someone tells me they are thinking about reloading their own ammo, I tell them the very first purchase they should make is a manual... And the Lee manual is the one I recommend to anyone starting out.
Thank you for another great informative video. When working up a load development. Do you use the heaviest load and step back 5 like in this video? Of course shooting from the lowest charge and watch for pressure signs.
You're welcome! Actually, my stoutest load was not the maximum load at all. Different parameters are involved for various purposes. Match grade ammo, used for bullseye competition requires accuracy, with no other criteria. Accuracy in such competition also involves less tiring and disturbing recoil for the shooter, so everything bows to the most accurate load. The best loads are generally found in the midrange region; not too slow, and not too fast. Load development for hunting or self defense requires the highest velocity that can be attained, with accuracy being subordinate to striking energy. Such development generally seeks the load combinations that will derive the best accuracy with the highest velocity. One must start with the load that provides the lowest acceptable velocity, and work up from there.
Love and respect your content and experience. I recently began hand loading 38sp target loads for my revolver. I chose a light load published by Hornady with 125g and hp38 powder at 850fps. The recoil and report was a bit more than I expected, but seems to function well. When I chambered the same loads in my new suppressed Henry, I was surprised to hear a supersonic report. Mildly alarmed, I began looking at other published load data. The minimum load recommended by Hornady is well above the maximum load I can find anywhere else!?!? What am I missing here? Gross typo?
Pistol powders are inherently dangerous to overcharge, due to the sensitivities of such quick burning rates. You didn't mention the charge you are using, but a legitimate load should be quite mild. My 8th Edition of the Hornady manual lists no reference to HP38 powder. Be sure you're not confusing it with HS-6, which does indeed use far greater charge weights. Never exceed the powder manufacturers charge of 4.9 grains with a 125 grain jacketed bullet or 4.8 for lead. As for supersonic, the full charge that I stated above has a listed handgun velocity of 1,071 fps for lead, and 934 fps for jacketed bullets, which can certainly be expected to break the supersonic barrier from a rifle barrel.
Great video, especially enjoyed the information on incrementally working up the powder charge. I'm curious though about determining the incremental load for handguns cartridges such as the 9mm and 380acp.
Use the same procedure. Of course, the charge weights for many handgun cartridges will be smaller than ten grains, so incremental test charges will be only a single tenth.
Thank you for posting all of these great videos. Regarding the incremental load based on the maximum load, would your first load be using the “starting load” in the Modern Reloading Book or the lowest load calculated when working backwards from the Maximum load? I apologize if you mentioned it in the video and I missed that. Thanks for your help!
In more than 50 years of reloading, I have found that every rifle is a law unto itself, and what shoots great in one may be a dud in another. I have 3 different .308s, and none of them likes the same recipe.
Gun blue 490,,just found your channel,great vids awesome knowledge on almost everything guns very educational very well described,really enjoy your shooting vids. I also was in nam 69-70, was in the Tay ninh proveance area,for a few months just out side of Cambodia,we may have swallowed some of the same dust,I was with the 20th eng Brigade. Thank you for your service and great vids. Welcome home! Wishing you all the best.
Thanks for sharing as always good information not presented elsewhere. Do you ever start at the minimum charge and work up? Seems like you start at the maximum and work down?
As I explained, the calculation is established incrementally from the maximum, but the test lots are fired from the low. Unless the gun is of questionable strength, five increments below maximum is five percent, and a very safe starting point. Ten percent is not a required starting point, considerably below factory loads.
I have a .308 22” barrel 1:10 twist.. am getting info which implies bullet weights between 165 thru 200 grins. Whisk I could get your opinion on this subject sir
All sounds very logical and fun. But, doesn't it begin with bullet? Weight, type, best for your particular twist and length? For example, 5.56 in a 1:7 is common. So is 55-grain ball (XM193). It's less expensive, and a traditional combat round. Yet, there are those who say the 1:7 works best with, say, 77-grain bullets. So, if standard Lake City ball is so-so with that twist...would one be wasting time trying to find a FMJ projectile/powder combination that far exceeded ball in a specific rifle? How does one start by selecting the bullet...and then follow the methodology you outline here?
Great Job, Thanks. I have a beginner question, just purchased 1000 9mm 115 gn ?? they are from Berrys and I thought I ordered FMJ but now I noticed in the same book as you have, there is a difference between FMJ and COPPER PLATED. and for my powder I have there is quite a difference. The invoice only says RN round nose. I am not sure how to proceed, just retired and have not loaded my first cartridge yet. Thanks
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. One question: you recommend 10% powder increments during development; does it scale with calibers? In my own research (I load for 7mm WBY and 300 WM ~70-80 gr of powder, in rifles), I'd be loading rounds differing by more than 0.7 gr of powder. This, in my opinion and observations, is too big of a change to reliably find the nodes, at least for the calibers I mentioned. Even 0.4 gr that I used before (trial and error) made me skip some precision nodes. I use 0.3 gr increments, then 0.2 to fine tune and if needed (esp. in vertical stringing) or playing with seating depths, 0.1 gr. You criticized the 0.2-0.3 gr increments method as being wasteful ("foolish"), but the 10% will more than likely make you miss the nodes, being even more wasteful and possibly yielding no results at all in the end for a given powder. Could you please comment on this? I appreciate your opinion.
Sir, I have found that all barrels , Have a personality’s of each barrel in each caliber . Loads of 243 does .5 at 100 yards yet in my daughters rifle it’s at 1.7 yet change load by 2 grains up . Her rifle does .3 ? That’s why I feel all barrels have their own likes
Yes, you're correct. Even in barrels produced on the same machines can have enough variations in smoothness or exterior dimensions that can affect differences in pressures and vibrations that will change load preferences. Working with three different Sako rifles and a Remington in .270 Winchester, each one had a different sweet spot and load preference. Failure to take such modest charge variations into account would have resulted in quite serious accuracy results. There's no one universal accuracy load for any cartridge. A friend of mine owns an identical special edition Model 70 Winchester in caliber .257 Roberts as mine, produced in the same factory, and likely by the same people on the same machinery that shoots its best with entirely different loads. No one load for all guns exists.
I'm not a re-loader, yet. A friend is trying to convince me to reload 6.5x50 for my Arisaka. I do have a commercial "right load" question. I have a .357 (4")revolver and rifle (20") that go on back pack trips. I had some .357 180 gr Hard Cast LFN (1400fps) and need to reorder but I have seen 2 other loads at around half the price - 1. 130 gr Hard Cast RNFP (1600 fps) 2. 165 gr, Cast SWC (1490 fps). Do I gain or loose anything with either alternative ? I never had to use the 180s for predator defense...will either of the others be sufficient since I do not have a 10mm and do not want to lug the M1A.
The length and weight of a bullet relative to others of the same caliber describes its penetration capacity... Within limitations of the available powder capacity. Too short a bullet and it's not going to penetrate sufficiently. Too long a bullet and so much powder capacity is substituted for the bullet intrusion that it lacks sufficient velocity to penetrate. If you're speaking of a protection firearm for backpacking in dangerous grizzly bear country, the .357 Magnum has a bare minimum of bullet frontal area for close encounters. I would recommend keeping the velocity as high as possible with a bullet at least as heavy as 158 grains, and no heavier than 170 grains, with a solid construction, no soft lead or hollow point. In dire circumstances, avoid confrontation, and be prepared to keep firing into vitals, and try to keep a big tree between you and bruin.
@@GunBlue490 Thank You for the detailed response. Well that rules out the Buffalo Bore 180 gr and the Steinel 130 gr. so the Steinel 165 gr cast semi wad cutter seems to be the winner at 1490 fps. Let us hope the little fuzzy creatures stay away. The Henry should boost the speed. I've a chest rig for the revolver since we sometime load CCI shot for snakes. Thanks again.
Hi, I was curious what your opinion was on barrel break in, I’m getting a nice new rifle in .270 Winchester here soon and I’ve heard a lot about breaking in a barrel vs just shooting it, thoughts?
Yes, I did a very detailed and popular video regarding that matter that will answer all your questions. Under my videos, scroll down 6 years to: "How to Prepare and Care for a New Gun - The Break in Process Revealed". Write and let me know if that helps!
I love your videos sir. Would love to see one about tips and tricks you have used to train your children or raising a family around guns. Also more videos about the Lord Jesus would be great! Those are my favorite. God bless you and your family.
It seems to me, in my admittedly over-simplified thinking, that loads that create a "bigger/brighter/longer-lasting/etc" muzzle flash indicates a lot of powder burning after the bullet has left the barrel and thus is a waste of powder and potentially detrimental to accuracy as the extra blast adds so many uncontrollable variables. Any thoughts?
It sounds like you're describing a naval gun! lol. That's theoretically true in extreme cases, but powder manufacturers don't develop loads in a vacuum, which is why use of powder data is imperative. What I described, using powder manufacturer data is precisely the manner by which the correct powder with the appropriate burn time is established. Powder manufacturers publish charts that are based upon the use of such powders, but for more reasons than than the ones you cited. Powders that are too quick are unable to develop bullet acceleration before pressure is excessive. In extreme cases, such as using pistol or shotgun powder in a rifle, the gun would simply blow up. On the other end of the spectrum, powders that are too slow for a given cartridge take too long to ignite and burn, and in extreme cases, as in using rifle powder in a pistol or shotgun, the powder would simply fail to burn at all. Another problem with too-slow powders in a given rifle, or with too little quantity of a slow burning powder, even in the correct chambering, is the phenomenon of "detonation". Until quite recently, this issue was not fully understood. However, it is known now that the primer and some fizzling powder, pushes the bullet part-way into the barrel. This more resistant situation now provides the perfect condition for slow powder to burn, and it then ignites, bursting the barrel, just as it would do if the barrel had been plugged. There has always been a trade-off to using barrels shorter than normal for given powders, whether it be pistols or rifles. The greatest is the simple loss of velocity. Over-bore and magnum cartridges require slow burning propellants in order to effectively accelerate the bullet to working velocity with safe pressures, and such longer burning time demands longer than standard barrels. Reducing barrel length by even small amounts will seriously reduce velocity. The same is true on a smaller scale for magnum handgun cartridges. Everyone wants top velocity from a super convenient 2" .44 Magnum without igniting the forest with their flamethrower, and they can't figure out why their 14.5" AR-15 shoots medieval catapult trajectories with 77 grain bullets. With an inordinately short barrel for a given cartridge, muzzle flash will be reduced, but it won't usually increase the velocity, because although the slower powder didn't burn completely, most of its job was done by the time the bullet exits. Follow the procedure that I explained with powder data, which isolates the best powders for the cartridge, and use the longest barrel that is practical for your personal requirements, and you'll have the best situation.
@@GunBlue490 Wow. Thank you for taking the time to put together such a considered and comprehensive reply. You are so good at recognizing and exploring the perspective from which a question arises in addition to the question itself. You answered a whole bunch of questions in a single go. Cheers!
Also..you can take two rifles off the line, and put them on the firing line, and will not come up with the same results. There’s too many variables, even though the numbers are sequential. I’ve been loading since 1970, and it’s very important to follow the loading guide. Take care and stay safe bud! God bless!✝️🙏🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
I have a pound of imr 4320 it has about 6000 grs left in it. I am not sure if it’s worth my time to load it because it’s no longer made. It would be really lame to get on a awesome load to know it’s not in production anymore. But this was a very good video in my opinion going to forums looking for information is spotty at best. I have found out in the last 2 years of reloading. That a good 80% of the stuff guys have said in all those forums to be complete BULL $HIT. You HAVE to do it for yourself to see what YOUR pistol or rifle are going to do. I also can’t stress it enough to get a manual and stay your self within the data. At least till you know what your doing 1 mistake can go bad real quick.
I would certainly use that IMR4320 and not waste it! That's equivalent to over 120 rounds of .308 Winchester ammo, which is six boxes at over $40 per box. It takes only 15 rounds as I described to find a good load.
I've explained that these are all compilations of powder manufacturers data, arranged under one cover, according to caliber, bullet weight and type, and in order of velocity. Lee had nothing to do with developing the loads, but published this digest with permission from every manufacturer listed. It's a very convenient reference that represents lots of painstaking work that required enormous hours of transcription and careful verification.
At 68 years old one of my greatest pleasures is listening to someone that knows what they are talking about speak about the things I love, a lifetime of shooting and handloading
You are such a joy to listen to. Reminds me of my Dad and his friend from many, many years ago. This is the way knowledge was passed down from Father to son. Tradition. So much hype today on the Internet. Core values, teachings and meanings. Bless you Sir for keeping the tradition alive!
Thankfully, I had found your channel before I delved into rifle reloading. Knowing that this video is a recap of content already covered several years prior, the results from that content that I had learned from you are results that I have been very happy with. I didn't buy all of the high-cost gimmickries often sold out there. I have now seen that many such products would have broken my blue-collar wallet, put me on a path of complication and frustration, and wasted a lot of time and resources. I'll say it again, I am very happy with the results! My last loadings had me shooting sub .5 MOA and I found that load in less than 30 incremental loads! I consider that very good indeed. A million thanks captain for all the firearm wisdom that I have gleaned. God Bless!
As a reloaded for past 48 years , my knowledge is a drop in bucket compared to this man of knowledge, thank you Sir , God bless
I really appreciate your no-nonsense approach to everything. When I started down the road of reloading and shooting, I watched many channels but was unimpressed with some of the illogical advice and straight up stupid claims. Then I found your channel and have continued to watch and learn for several years.
Thank God for your friend and companion, Benney. It is great to hear him and see him after the big scare years ago.
Thank your for sharing all your knowledge gained throughout your years of shooting and reloading. You are never preachy like other writers and always calm and articulate.
I've been reloading for 35 yrs and I always get good information from your videos. God bless you sir.
Oh my, such wisdom…I can listen to this man for hours. Thank you so much, God bless.👍
You sir are a wealth of information and knowledge. I'm 50 years old been hunting since I was ten and reloading since I was 15. Sitting at my bench and for nostalgia reasons loading some 303 brit. We farm out here in Canada which gives me the ability to have my own range. Story time! I have a friend that has a friend! (I don't know this person) but he bought a tikka t3 300wsm forest hunter stock stainless beautiful piece of equipment. Came to my range and was livid it would not shoot sub moa as guaranteed. (180gn winchester power point) is all he could get at the shop. I tried to explain to him that when tikka does this it's in a controlled environment with there ammo. To him this did not make sense. On the spot he sold me the rifle ( maybe it was kick he didn't like) long story short I have this rifle to .455 moa nothing past 3 rounds due to heat then she starts to open up. Point being. Don't give up read your manuals listen to real world experience the reloading world is shrinking due to convenience. Hunting, shooting, reloading is a art. And needs to be treated that way. This video made my day. Thank you
I am surprised how few people in the US and Canada seem to reload. Here in the UK it's almost obligatory unless you only occasionally hunt deer. If you target shoot there is no option. Do many more possibilities to tune your loads if you reload.
After I made that statement I started to reminisce. I remember as I was a kid my grandfather and his colleagues having loading "parties" talking hunting,loading, farming etc.... same as my father did and my father in law. Now it's just me. It truly is a art that unfortunately is dying off.
@@303parkerhale Great having the space to shoot and other people interested in the same thing. In the UK if you're into shooting you're definitely on the fringe, reloading is not something that most even know exists. It's gradually being squeezed out and it's all political. At least I can enjoy it for now, hopefully I've got another 20+ years enjoying it. I had to learn what I could from books back in the 90's, the internet has helped tremendously.
Proverbs 27:17
Iron sharpeneth iron;
So a man sharpeneth the countenance of his friend.
Whoso keepeth the fig tree shall eat the fruit thereof:
So he that waiteth on his master shall be honoured.
Thank you for another wonderful lesson.
Suggestion: Take your videos and make DVD’s. I would pay top dollar. I would rather you get payed for all your knowledge.Always worried the Utube will take them down someday. Great video as always.
His free offering of his lifetime of wealth of knowledge makes him that much more valuable to the shooting community. He is immeasurable by the dollar but donate to his patreon!
Agreed
What’s a DVD?
That's why he has Patreon, it's your option to pay so put your money where your mouth is!
You know that would be a fantastic opportunity 25 years ago lol. You can download his videos at rip them to a thumb drive or hard drive. Just give his patreon a tip. I'm going to.
Whenever I need an answer for anything firearm related, I find the answer in this site. I find answers for 99.9 percent of any questions I need answers for. This encyclopedia of firearm information has carried me through many years and kept me from making some really
dumb things. It has also me aware of information that I should but didn't know.
I've been reloading 25+ years, and this guy is 100% right, no lies, no BS. I learn something every time I watch one of his vdeos. This video is an amazing resource, as knowledge is perishable, and must be updated frequently. Thank you, sir.
I enjoy hearing about your passion of the art of accuracy.
Sound is good here
I enjoy all your videos, straight to the point, no nonsense, no BS. Thanks.
Sorry I don’t have text. Old school, still figuring out all this new tech.
@@OLDGRIZZ That text thing is a scam. Don’t reply to anything like that.
First one to watch, pretty cool haha
I really wish I'd had this sort of info years ago, when I was chasing ALL sorts of powders and bullets for an accurate hunting load for my .30-06. Now, starting the process all over again with a .30-30 lever gun, this helps a ton!!! Thank you for this video!!
Spot on. When I first started handloading I was pretty much broke most of the time, using a couple of gifted loading presses. I'd buy a pound of whatever powder the manual had listed, then work up a reasonably accurate load. Over several decades of loading one learns how to streamline the process of load work up, not by much, but better, none the less. You start looking for additional features in powders, low flash, clean burning, consistency in powder charge with progressive presses while still maintaining accuracy. These days it's not difficult to find powders that do all of these. Each firearm is unique, I tend to set goals that work in multiple weapons of the same caliber. I've been reasonably successful, ragged one hole groups at 7yds for my carry guns, sub MOA at 200yds for my .223 varmint AR's. I burned through many varieties of powder to find what works for me. Could it have been easier? Heck yeah, but I wouldn't have the first hand knowledge from experience, that also makes it enjoyable to learn from others first hand knowledge. So, thank you.
Thank you Gunblue 490
One thing i do is look at the charges compared to the pressure. If you have a lower charge, with the same velocity but a higher pressure, then it's a faster burning powder than the other.
Thank you for a great video! Helps a ton while I'm recovering from triple bypass surgery
God's speed on your recovery.
@@GunBlue490 Thank you my friend
My first attempts at reloading resulted in squibs, I think about one half dozen. So I stopped trying to reload in fear that I would do damage or cause serious injury to myself. If I can muster the courage to try again I will because I do like long range percision. Thank you.
I use same lee 4 hole and manual with great results just need to make my bench more solid …I haistly mounted it to get loadin and gives too much on the edge…thank you so much for your time and efforts….matt
Thank you Mr GB, this will help me in my reloading efforts this winter. God bless you, Mrs GB and Benny.
Love your videos and Benny. I’m a newer reloader and learning a lot. Thank you.
My friends used to say I put ball c2 on my food, because I used it on all caliber’s I used lols it’s great powder
This is the best and most thorough explanation of low development I have ever seen. Thank you for making this video.
I miss handloading so much right now!!
lol
Benny says it is time ....lol
thank you for the videos ,
Keep 'em coming
That intro with that smile... you re the best
I came for the knowledge and stayed for Benny.
I just picked up a 9.3 and am excited to go through this process with my ADI manual.
Thanks for all of your hard work.
Benny appreciates it, and so do I!
What works for me is I start with min load on the data . And see what powders to use and see what I have and use 4 powders to test and see what one will group the best. And work with tge one that is the best. Thanks for going into details like you did . I learned alot .
Great video presentation, really learn something with every video.
Blue this is a excellent video. Your explanation of powder choice goes beyond words. The only reason i keep older manuals is for powder that the mfgs have dropped from they're list as usable powder, ie Greendot in .45acp. Most excellent job.
Happened to find your channel a few days ago.. wow. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with a straight forward no nonsense personable delivery. Quite refreshing in these times. Thanks again...
Thank you for being here. God bless.
Thank you again for sharing your knowledge. You save us time and money. Appreciate you.
Nice video! I had a real pressure issue with H380 in my 6.5x55 due to ambient temperature change. This happened about 30 years ago and I have avoided it ever since.
Well, you have done it again! I really like the concept of a "composite group." Very clever and certainly lends more insight into your loads. Selecting from the top third of powders in my bullet range will help narrow my selection for powder next time too! However, the real gem for me was how to determine incremental loads and then to fine tune around the best group. I see this saving some rounds in the future. Good, solid, practical advice. You just can't ask for any better. Thank you!
Excellent starting place for a beginner. Needed a place to start. Very simple and well communicated.
Amazing content in every video you do , thank you all the way from Australia 🇦🇺 ❤
So informative, smart guy thanks.
Super informative great videos for any level of reloader
Thanks for the video and information. Very good as always.
That is a Gunbooboo , can't wait for the audio
No wonder benny is alway in a good mood he has been drinking scotch and somehow smoking cigars at 3pm.
Thank you for making this video. I've been a follower of you for quite sometime but as a relatively green reloader, I found this very informative.
I hope powders improve with age like fine wines because mine are older than most of your viewers.
Thank You for this excellent talk. I have the gear and this makes me want to work harder towards making time for it! Thank You!!
always great information
Love the channel. Keep them coming!
Great Video
Terrific. Like the dog-reminder.
So wait, we have to work to find out what works best with our rifles? But why can a forum somewhere just tell me.
Thanks.
This beginner says thank you!
I would like to see the manufacturers focus on fewer powders and prime variations and produce more quantities of those to get us out of this shortage and reduce cost.
That's certainly not the issue. Demand is exceeding production.
@@GunBlue490 is it? I work at a gun store in TX, primers and powder are no longer available like they were 2-3 yrs ago. Used to keep piles of the stuff no prob. Now there is none to order.
I own a 1874 Pedersoli Sharps in 45-70, with a 34" barrel. I originally intended to shoot black powder only through the rifle: However, I would like to try a hand load for it. I previously used H4198 in hand loads for my Marlin 1895. The difference is 12" of barrel length. I would like to take advantage of the extra length by using a slower powder. I contacted Hodgdon and they said I should stick to H4198 or IMR 4198. Those powders are the best suited for that cartridge design.
That will only give me a modest 100 fps more velocity and therefore it doesn't take advantage of the extra length. I have to be careful to stay below the SAAMI 2,800 p.s.i. standard for both rifles, so adding more 4198 is out of the question. Is there a slower burning powder I can try or am I stuck with the 4198 powders, which were designed to burn in a much shorter barrel? Thanks
I just got into reloading, and I appreciate the detailed information in all of your videos. Thanks for sharing you knowledge.
Good to see you again gun blue!!
Thank you Sir for the information. Great Video as always. Now more than ever it is good to have a solid plan for how to work up a load with powder price and availability. I appreciate these videos Sir. Blessings in Christ from Northern Maine.
Thanks for that info. Will save me some powder. Great formula. I enjoy reloading and get great results once I find the bullet my guns like best. Great video.
Hey I sent a photo shot of the text I received. But I deleted the Telegram app. I know you don't get something for nothing. At least I never have. Thanks
thank you for your uploads gunblue good to be able to do something with firearms without having to constantly spend money, do you have any advice on cleaning black powder firearms
Always has good solid information, comes from years of experience.
I have to ask this question. What’s your opinion of the leeloader kit for our reloading work?
Very valuable information. Thank you for sharing.
When someone tells me they are thinking about reloading their own ammo, I tell them the very first purchase they should make is a manual... And the Lee manual is the one I recommend to anyone starting out.
Thank you for another great informative video. When working up a load development. Do you use the heaviest load and step back 5 like in this video? Of course shooting from the lowest charge and watch for pressure signs.
You're welcome! Actually, my stoutest load was not the maximum load at all. Different parameters are involved for various purposes. Match grade ammo, used for bullseye competition requires accuracy, with no other criteria. Accuracy in such competition also involves less tiring and disturbing recoil for the shooter, so everything bows to the most accurate load. The best loads are generally found in the midrange region; not too slow, and not too fast.
Load development for hunting or self defense requires the highest velocity that can be attained, with accuracy being subordinate to striking energy. Such development generally seeks the load combinations that will derive the best accuracy with the highest velocity. One must start with the load that provides the lowest acceptable velocity, and work up from there.
@GunBlue490 I should have added my.load development is for hunting
Love and respect your content and experience.
I recently began hand loading 38sp target loads for my revolver. I chose a light load published by Hornady with 125g and hp38 powder at 850fps. The recoil and report was a bit more than I expected, but seems to function well.
When I chambered the same loads in my new suppressed Henry, I was surprised to hear a supersonic report. Mildly alarmed, I began looking at other published load data. The minimum load recommended by Hornady is well above the maximum load I can find anywhere else!?!?
What am I missing here? Gross typo?
Pistol powders are inherently dangerous to overcharge, due to the sensitivities of such quick burning rates. You didn't mention the charge you are using, but a legitimate load should be quite mild. My 8th Edition of the Hornady manual lists no reference to HP38 powder. Be sure you're not confusing it with HS-6, which does indeed use far greater charge weights. Never exceed the powder manufacturers charge of 4.9 grains with a 125 grain jacketed bullet or 4.8 for lead.
As for supersonic, the full charge that I stated above has a listed handgun velocity of 1,071 fps for lead, and 934 fps for jacketed bullets, which can certainly be expected to break the supersonic barrier from a rifle barrel.
Hi
Great video, especially enjoyed the information on incrementally working up the powder charge. I'm curious though about determining the incremental load for handguns cartridges such as the 9mm and 380acp.
Use the same procedure. Of course, the charge weights for many handgun cartridges will be smaller than ten grains, so incremental test charges will be only a single tenth.
Thank you for posting all of these great videos. Regarding the incremental load based on the maximum load, would your first load be using the “starting load” in the Modern Reloading Book or the lowest load calculated when working backwards from the Maximum load? I apologize if you mentioned it in the video and I missed that. Thanks for your help!
Very interesting notebook sir
In more than 50 years of reloading, I have found that every rifle is a law unto itself, and what shoots great in one may be a dud in another. I have 3 different .308s, and none of them likes the same recipe.
Superb video content!
CFE 223 is in the 2nd edition
Gun blue 490,,just found your channel,great vids awesome knowledge on almost everything guns very educational very well described,really enjoy your shooting vids. I also was in nam 69-70, was in the Tay ninh proveance area,for a few months just out side of Cambodia,we may have swallowed some of the same dust,I was with the 20th eng Brigade. Thank you for your service and great vids. Welcome home! Wishing you all the best.
Welcome home Brother.
Thanks for sharing as always good information not presented elsewhere. Do you ever start at the minimum charge and work up? Seems like you start at the maximum and work down?
As I explained, the calculation is established incrementally from the maximum, but the test lots are fired from the low. Unless the gun is of questionable strength, five increments below maximum is five percent, and a very safe starting point. Ten percent is not a required starting point, considerably below factory loads.
I have a .308 22” barrel 1:10 twist.. am getting info which implies bullet weights between 165 thru 200 grins. Whisk I could get your opinion on this subject sir
All sounds very logical and fun.
But, doesn't it begin with bullet?
Weight, type, best for your particular twist and length?
For example, 5.56 in a 1:7 is common.
So is 55-grain ball (XM193). It's less expensive, and a traditional combat round.
Yet, there are those who say the 1:7 works best with, say, 77-grain bullets.
So, if standard Lake City ball is so-so with that twist...would one be wasting time trying to find a FMJ projectile/powder combination that far exceeded ball in a specific rifle?
How does one start by selecting the bullet...and then follow the methodology you outline here?
Great Job, Thanks. I have a beginner question, just purchased 1000 9mm 115 gn ?? they are from Berrys and I thought I ordered FMJ but now I noticed in the same book as you have, there is a difference between FMJ and COPPER PLATED. and for my powder I have there is quite a difference. The invoice only says RN round nose. I am not sure how to proceed, just retired and have not loaded my first cartridge yet. Thanks
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. One question: you recommend 10% powder increments during development; does it scale with calibers? In my own research (I load for 7mm WBY and 300 WM ~70-80 gr of powder, in rifles), I'd be loading rounds differing by more than 0.7 gr of powder. This, in my opinion and observations, is too big of a change to reliably find the nodes, at least for the calibers I mentioned. Even 0.4 gr that I used before (trial and error) made me skip some precision nodes. I use 0.3 gr increments, then 0.2 to fine tune and if needed (esp. in vertical stringing) or playing with seating depths, 0.1 gr. You criticized the 0.2-0.3 gr increments method as being wasteful ("foolish"), but the 10% will more than likely make you miss the nodes, being even more wasteful and possibly yielding no results at all in the end for a given powder. Could you please comment on this? I appreciate your opinion.
I’m curious of this also…love everything this channel produces….I go .3 at a time most the time once I’ve got close
I basically do the same thing as the notebook, only in a MS Excel file.
Sir, I have found that all barrels , Have a personality’s of each barrel in each caliber . Loads of 243 does .5 at 100 yards yet in my daughters rifle it’s at 1.7 yet change load by 2 grains up . Her rifle does .3 ? That’s why I feel all barrels have their own likes
Yes, you're correct. Even in barrels produced on the same machines can have enough variations in smoothness or exterior dimensions that can affect differences in pressures and vibrations that will change load preferences. Working with three different Sako rifles and a Remington in .270 Winchester, each one had a different sweet spot and load preference. Failure to take such modest charge variations into account would have resulted in quite serious accuracy results. There's no one universal accuracy load for any cartridge. A friend of mine owns an identical special edition Model 70 Winchester in caliber .257 Roberts as mine, produced in the same factory, and likely by the same people on the same machinery that shoots its best with entirely different loads. No one load for all guns exists.
Brilliant
Danke
I'm not a re-loader, yet. A friend is trying to convince me to reload 6.5x50 for my Arisaka. I do have a commercial "right load" question.
I have a .357 (4")revolver and rifle (20") that go on back pack trips. I had some .357 180 gr Hard Cast LFN (1400fps) and need to reorder but I have seen 2 other loads at around half the price - 1. 130 gr Hard Cast RNFP (1600 fps) 2. 165 gr, Cast SWC (1490 fps). Do I gain or loose anything with either alternative ? I never had to use the 180s for predator defense...will either of the others be sufficient since I do not have a 10mm and do not want to lug the M1A.
The length and weight of a bullet relative to others of the same caliber describes its penetration capacity... Within limitations of the available powder capacity. Too short a bullet and it's not going to penetrate sufficiently. Too long a bullet and so much powder capacity is substituted for the bullet intrusion that it lacks sufficient velocity to penetrate. If you're speaking of a protection firearm for backpacking in dangerous grizzly bear country, the .357 Magnum has a bare minimum of bullet frontal area for close encounters. I would recommend keeping the velocity as high as possible with a bullet at least as heavy as 158 grains, and no heavier than 170 grains, with a solid construction, no soft lead or hollow point. In dire circumstances, avoid confrontation, and be prepared to keep firing into vitals, and try to keep a big tree between you and bruin.
@@GunBlue490 Thank You for the detailed response. Well that rules out the Buffalo Bore 180 gr and the Steinel 130 gr. so the Steinel 165 gr cast semi wad cutter seems to be the winner at 1490 fps. Let us hope the little fuzzy creatures stay away. The Henry should boost the speed. I've a chest rig for the revolver since we sometime load CCI shot for snakes. Thanks again.
Hi, I was curious what your opinion was on barrel break in, I’m getting a nice new rifle in .270 Winchester here soon and I’ve heard a lot about breaking in a barrel vs just shooting it, thoughts?
Yes, I did a very detailed and popular video regarding that matter that will answer all your questions.
Under my videos, scroll down 6 years to:
"How to Prepare and Care for a New Gun - The Break in Process Revealed".
Write and let me know if that helps!
@@GunBlue490 thank you! I love your videos, thank you for sharing your experience with us and your interaction with your viewers
I love your videos sir. Would love to see one about tips and tricks you have used to train your children or raising a family around guns. Also more videos about the Lord Jesus would be great! Those are my favorite. God bless you and your family.
I hope your not suggesting people follow old information on powder burn rates you do know they do change overtime it pays to get up to date darta
Benny is your alarm clock ;))
No audio 🔉
I have audio
It seems to me, in my admittedly over-simplified thinking, that loads that create a "bigger/brighter/longer-lasting/etc" muzzle flash indicates a lot of powder burning after the bullet has left the barrel and thus is a waste of powder and potentially detrimental to accuracy as the extra blast adds so many uncontrollable variables. Any thoughts?
It sounds like you're describing a naval gun! lol. That's theoretically true in extreme cases, but powder manufacturers don't develop loads in a vacuum, which is why use of powder data is imperative.
What I described, using powder manufacturer data is precisely the manner by which the correct powder with the appropriate burn time is established. Powder manufacturers publish charts that are based upon the use of such powders, but for more reasons than than the ones you cited. Powders that are too quick are unable to develop bullet acceleration before pressure is excessive. In extreme cases, such as using pistol or shotgun powder in a rifle, the gun would simply blow up.
On the other end of the spectrum, powders that are too slow for a given cartridge take too long to ignite and burn, and in extreme cases, as in using rifle powder in a pistol or shotgun, the powder would simply fail to burn at all.
Another problem with too-slow powders in a given rifle, or with too little quantity of a slow burning powder, even in the correct chambering, is the phenomenon of "detonation". Until quite recently, this issue was not fully understood. However, it is known now that the primer and some fizzling powder, pushes the bullet part-way into the barrel. This more resistant situation now provides the perfect condition for slow powder to burn, and it then ignites, bursting the barrel, just as it would do if the barrel had been plugged.
There has always been a trade-off to using barrels shorter than normal for given powders, whether it be pistols or rifles. The greatest is the simple loss of velocity. Over-bore and magnum cartridges require slow burning propellants in order to effectively accelerate the bullet to working velocity with safe pressures, and such longer burning time demands longer than standard barrels.
Reducing barrel length by even small amounts will seriously reduce velocity. The same is true on a smaller scale for magnum handgun cartridges. Everyone wants top velocity from a super convenient 2" .44 Magnum without igniting the forest with their flamethrower, and they can't figure out why their 14.5" AR-15 shoots medieval catapult trajectories with 77 grain bullets.
With an inordinately short barrel for a given cartridge, muzzle flash will be reduced, but it won't usually increase the velocity, because although the slower powder didn't burn completely, most of its job was done by the time the bullet exits.
Follow the procedure that I explained with powder data, which isolates the best powders for the cartridge, and use the longest barrel that is practical for your personal requirements, and you'll have the best situation.
@@GunBlue490 Wow. Thank you for taking the time to put together such a considered and comprehensive reply. You are so good at recognizing and exploring the perspective from which a question arises in addition to the question itself. You answered a whole bunch of questions in a single go. Cheers!
Also..you can take two rifles off the line, and put them on the firing line, and will not come up with the same results. There’s too many variables, even though the numbers are sequential.
I’ve been loading since 1970, and it’s very important to follow the loading guide. Take care and stay safe bud! God bless!✝️🙏🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
That's entirely true.
Benny is awesome, go enjoy your scotch and cigar. Weather is getting nappier enjoy while you can.
Trying to tell me that legendary loads don't work 🧐
I have a pound of imr 4320 it has about 6000 grs left in it. I am not sure if it’s worth my time to load it because it’s no longer made. It would be really lame to get on a awesome load to know it’s not in production anymore. But this was a very good video in my opinion going to forums looking for information is spotty at best. I have found out in the last 2 years of reloading. That a good 80% of the stuff guys have said in all those forums to be complete BULL $HIT. You HAVE to do it for yourself to see what YOUR pistol or rifle are going to do. I also can’t stress it enough to get a manual and stay your self within the data. At least till you know what your doing 1 mistake can go bad real quick.
I would certainly use that IMR4320 and not waste it! That's equivalent to over 120 rounds of .308 Winchester ammo, which is six boxes at over $40 per box. It takes only 15 rounds as I described to find a good load.
Benny boy!
Where is your Patreon account?
Patreon/gunblue490
Did Lee test any of these loads he has in his book, or did he just copy other peoples work ??
I've explained that these are all compilations of powder manufacturers data, arranged under one cover, according to caliber, bullet weight and type, and in order of velocity. Lee had nothing to do with developing the loads, but published this digest with permission from every manufacturer listed. It's a very convenient reference that represents lots of painstaking work that required enormous hours of transcription and careful verification.
RoaR
👍
All doggies can tell time 🤣🤣
Yes, they do.