You guys are killing it with these DIY videos! Thank you for supporting the community. This video also applies to the BMW F25/F26 X3/X4. If needed, the Neiko 10083A kit provides the T60 and TP60 bits and the Neiko 10288A kit provides the 17mm male hex. Make sure both front wheels are off the ground so the steering wheel and axle can be turned freely. Two of the four hub bolts are inconveniently near suspension bits. A flex-head breaker bar and torque wrench helps get past the suspension bits and out of the wheel well with usable rotation. Having the steering wheel turned close to (but not at!) full lock also helps get the right angle on them. After the axle bolt is removed, you can push inward on the axle's spline face and reposition it to keep the boot from interfering with the bolts. At 9:33 in the video, you can see how he has it repositioned away from the two troublesome bolts. The four hub bolts are recessed into the carrier just enough to make them difficult to access without an extension. But even my shortest extension pushed me inconveniently close to the suspension bits. I strongly recommend getting a 1/2" mini-extension, which would make access much easier. Getting the extra 90 degrees on the hub bolts is a pain if you don't have a full lift and can't see what you're doing from underneath the car. The four bolt ends are visible from the exterior; you can make a paint marker witness mark to help clock the 90 degrees. When seating the new hub's splines on the axle splines, I found it easiest to turn the axle by hand, then watch for the hub to turn. You can also pull the axle away from the hub a bit to feel the splines skip; this will help you feel for engagement. Make sure the steering wheel is straight so there's no steering angle on the axle. When tightening the new axle nut, make sure the small rotor retaining screw is not installed. It's not meant to handle that torque, and the lug bolts won't hold the rotor tightly enough to keep it from seeing that force. Having occasional access to a helper is nice. They can turn the steering wheel left and right to help with hub bolt R&R, and they can press on the brake pedal to hold the rotor during axle bolt R&R.
bmw man. love all the different sizes and bolts and sockets and the headaches it comes with. But when everything is in harmony, it drives like the ultimate machine. lol
Excellent video! Just perfect. I (and many others) really appreciate you taking the time to create such good, easy-to-follow instructional videos. The whole thing (information, camerawork, sound and editing) are top level. Thank you! I am about to perform this repair on my F10 X-drive, and though it is not the exact same series, this video is going to make the job a lot easier (I've also studied a video particular to the F10 series, but thanks to your video and in particular your instruction to use a flat head screw driver through the brake disk to hold the hub in place while loosening the hub nut, I now don't have to rely on the presence of my wife to push on the brake pedal while I break that hub bolt free).
You probably dont give a shit but does any of you know of a tool to get back into an Instagram account? I was dumb forgot the password. I appreciate any help you can give me
@Grey Roger i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now. I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Amazing video once again. Thank you very much. I will be ordering the kit. I have a 2015 F25 and yes 100%, with only 70,000 km on my X3, The front end is growling/howling. Those bearings are done.
Respect! For the correctness and fullness of informations. Really! I'm planning to change front right side wheel bearing on my BMW X1 e84 x drive 20D 2014. It's an Xdrive (4wd). My kind question is if it's the same process as described in this video. Thanking you.
This is what you need to watch if you are looking to replace the Hub in a 2014 X1 XDrive28i. Watch it carefully. Make sure you buy the posterior SCREWS when you buy the Hub. Also you will need a T60, TP60 and the 17mm (which you usually don't have in your tool box)
Thank you for this great video vero useful. I have a question. You said that the new four bolts have a pitch of 1.25 instead of 1.50. I noticed in bmw technical repair guides that these bolts should be torqued at 120 nm + 90 degrees. Is this correct? Thank you.
Just watched this video again today and saw several comments I'd like to answer even if it's a late reply. With BMW's change of thread pitch on these wheel hub mounting bolts. There is updated information from TIS on these two variations of bolts. The M12x1.25 screws are torqued 120Nm + 90 while the old M12x1.5 screws are 80Nm + 90.
@@GarethFoley Can you confirm the torque is the same for the 535i (F10) ? also, I believe I need to remove the tension strut ball joint nut on a non xdrive model to access one of the 4 hub bolts. Would you happen the know the torque for this nut?
@@MrSohara89 I know this is a late reply, but if you did it 80Nm, just rotating 35 degree seems enough to meet its torque spec. I checked it when work this job. Otherwise, just buy new one bolt and replace it. when replacing with new bolt, try 80Nm first then 120Nm to check how much degree more rotated. then apply additional degree between 80 and 120 to other bolts.
Would you / anybody know what bolts are needed on a 2014 335i RWD & if I need to replace the wheel hub and bearing or can I get away with just replacing the bearing?? Lastly thank you for this informative breakdown & install...
Hey Gareth, or the FCP team, do you happen to know the correct torque spec for the rear axles on a F30 335? My rear axle nut keeps coming loose causing a clicking noise during acceleration.
145Nm + 45°. But a few tips on these axle nuts. I always put a little bit of oil on the back side flange (the part that torques against the wheel hub) to prevent any friction from preventing a true torque spec. If the wheel hub is corroded it's important to make sure the seat for the nut is clean of corrosion. Make sure you use a new axle nut and also stake the axle nut once installed to prevent it from being able to back off. There should be two notches on the axle in which you can deform the outer edge of the axle nut into.
I believe the cut-off date on the old bolts is 10/14. Correct me if I am wrong, if you get a NOS wheel bearing that does not accommodate the new bolt size, then the old style bolt must be used. That being said, I doubt bearings that old are still floating around on the market...but possible. Thanks for the video.
Great video! I tried to start this but the 17mm allen wouldn't come off, even with a breaker bar. It's a 10-year-old F25 that's seen a few NY winters. Should heat do the trick?
Well, it looks fairly easy. I hope it goes as good for me, I am not a mechanic but accomplished the drive line by myself. Still a little nervous, so my 320i 2015 is not an xdrive and I am replacing both the rear hubs and bearings. Is there anything I need to know different?
Thanks for this. My F30 30d XDrive makes a noise and vibration from the left wheel when I turn left doing 60mph+. I am under the impression it might be the wheel bearing and I due to change the rotors and pads anyways. Any advice for me? Cheers.
Sorry for the dumb Question new to this I have an 328i xdrive 09. Do I need a special socket to take off the big center bolt before I take off the rotor etc ?
Have a 2011 328i xdrive. From what I have found, it has a separate hub and bearing. In other words, the bearing gets pressed on the hub. So is this video correct or not correct for my car?
Gareth, you are DA man! Thanks. Couple questions: 1) Root cause: Was this case strictly the humming sound while driving or was there slop felt in the bearing when moving the wheel (on hoist)? 2) Would you recommend doing the other side at the same time, regardless of symptoms on that side? Cheers.
Late on the reply (sorry about that) but I think your question is still relevant to answer for anyone else looking for the same information. This wheel bearing did not have any play in it. However, one thing that was especially of note is the noise from this bearing was louder on right hand turns at speed than left hand turns. Since the noise was coming from the front this indicated to me that the front left wheel bearing was the likely culprit. On visual I also noticed some reddish/brown dust on the back side of the wheel bearing around the tone ring seal. When you see brownish/reddish dust around any bearing (u joints as well) it's a wear situation at that point. And generally, it's advisable to replace both sides to not have to deal with it later on however you can get away with replacing a single wheel bearing. The items we always recommend to replace in pairs are suspension components.
Change front bearing on mine no xdrive f30 with skf vkba 6781. Thanks for your video, but the new bearing bolt has triple square head with same threads. Can you confirm?
Great video How nice from BMW to give us more different nuts and bolts I wonder how long before they quit using nuts and bolt they should weld everything so when it comes the time to replace your tire you just go buy new BMW 🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬
A few possible sources. Wastegate noise is a possibility but if you have the A/C on or the defroster some of the noise could be from the A/C compressor. Past those external elements you could be hearing lifter noise (they can bleed out and take a few second to prime). The other thing you may be hearing is the floating wrist pins for the connecting rods. Since the noise is only present at start up and can't be heard when the engine is warm or while driving it's most likely nothing to worry about.
The wheel speed sensor itself is a separate item. The magnetic tone ring integrated inside the wheel bearing cannot be replaced outside of a wheel bearing hub assembly replacement. A failing wheel bearing can case ABS related issues if the tone ring has been damaged. That's common on wheel bearings that are very worn and have a lot of play.
This is a dumb question but I am new to BMWs. I got an inspection for a 435i I might buy, they said I need new front swivel bearings on each side. Is that the wheel bearing?
"Swivel bearing" is BMW terminology for the front wheel carrier/knuckles. The only reason I am assuming that came up during an inspection is because of a camber problem that could not be corrected via the small amount of adjustment available at the strut tower. BMW has camber correction knuckles for the front suspension. They have knuckles that can either increase camber or decrease camber. However, there are other things like worn control arm bushings that can cause increased camber so replacement of those swivel bearings may not be required.
I found I have bolts that have several teeth on the inside. They look like the bolts in the video but with several sides as opposed to just 6. Does anyone have any idea what they are?
You guys are killing it with these DIY videos! Thank you for supporting the community.
This video also applies to the BMW F25/F26 X3/X4. If needed, the Neiko 10083A kit provides the T60 and TP60 bits and the Neiko 10288A kit provides the 17mm male hex.
Make sure both front wheels are off the ground so the steering wheel and axle can be turned freely.
Two of the four hub bolts are inconveniently near suspension bits. A flex-head breaker bar and torque wrench helps get past the suspension bits and out of the wheel well with usable rotation. Having the steering wheel turned close to (but not at!) full lock also helps get the right angle on them.
After the axle bolt is removed, you can push inward on the axle's spline face and reposition it to keep the boot from interfering with the bolts. At 9:33 in the video, you can see how he has it repositioned away from the two troublesome bolts.
The four hub bolts are recessed into the carrier just enough to make them difficult to access without an extension. But even my shortest extension pushed me inconveniently close to the suspension bits. I strongly recommend getting a 1/2" mini-extension, which would make access much easier.
Getting the extra 90 degrees on the hub bolts is a pain if you don't have a full lift and can't see what you're doing from underneath the car. The four bolt ends are visible from the exterior; you can make a paint marker witness mark to help clock the 90 degrees.
When seating the new hub's splines on the axle splines, I found it easiest to turn the axle by hand, then watch for the hub to turn. You can also pull the axle away from the hub a bit to feel the splines skip; this will help you feel for engagement. Make sure the steering wheel is straight so there's no steering angle on the axle.
When tightening the new axle nut, make sure the small rotor retaining screw is not installed. It's not meant to handle that torque, and the lug bolts won't hold the rotor tightly enough to keep it from seeing that force.
Having occasional access to a helper is nice. They can turn the steering wheel left and right to help with hub bolt R&R, and they can press on the brake pedal to hold the rotor during axle bolt R&R.
bmw man. love all the different sizes and bolts and sockets and the headaches it comes with. But when everything is in harmony, it drives like the ultimate machine. lol
No it’s ass please hush
Excellent video! Just perfect. I (and many others) really appreciate you taking the time to create such good, easy-to-follow instructional videos. The whole thing (information, camerawork, sound and editing) are top level. Thank you! I am about to perform this repair on my F10 X-drive, and though it is not the exact same series, this video is going to make the job a lot easier (I've also studied a video particular to the F10 series, but thanks to your video and in particular your instruction to use a flat head screw driver through the brake disk to hold the hub in place while loosening the hub nut, I now don't have to rely on the presence of my wife to push on the brake pedal while I break that hub bolt free).
Man I really appreciate these videos. I did this job on my car about 4 months ago without a diy, i couldn’t find one online.
Drinking a beer on a Friday evening, and a video pops up of Gareth work on an F30. Nice! Thanks again for doing these videos, guys! 👍
You probably dont give a shit but does any of you know of a tool to get back into an Instagram account?
I was dumb forgot the password. I appreciate any help you can give me
@Kace Rory Instablaster :)
@Grey Roger i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now.
I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Grey Roger It did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thanks so much, you really help me out :D
@Kace Rory Happy to help :D
Brilliant DIY Videos for the F30 Xdrive, keep them going Guys, they’re surely appreciated.Thank you
Keep it up with the f30 content
Yeah thanks again, did this, went well. Some of the bolts were hard to get off, but did it. Saved me a few hundred $$ much appreciated….
Glad to hear it, Donz!
Amazing video once again. Thank you very much. I will be ordering the kit. I have a 2015 F25 and yes 100%, with only 70,000 km on my X3, The front end is growling/howling. Those bearings are done.
Thanks for confirming the Torx plus TP60 bit needed for the new bolts. Great video.
Excellent mechanic and video
Respect! For the correctness and fullness of informations. Really!
I'm planning to change front right side wheel bearing on my BMW X1 e84 x drive 20D 2014. It's an Xdrive (4wd).
My kind question is if it's the same process as described in this video.
Thanking you.
Is this the same process for the rear wheel bearing?
This is what you need to watch if you are looking to replace the Hub in a 2014 X1 XDrive28i. Watch it carefully. Make sure you buy the posterior SCREWS when you buy the Hub. Also you will need a T60, TP60 and the 17mm (which you usually don't have in your tool box)
Also axel bolt.
Thank you for this great video vero useful. I have a question. You said that the new four bolts have a pitch of 1.25 instead of 1.50. I noticed in bmw technical repair guides that these bolts should be torqued at 120 nm + 90 degrees. Is this correct? Thank you.
Just watched this video again today and saw several comments I'd like to answer even if it's a late reply. With BMW's change of thread pitch on these wheel hub mounting bolts. There is updated information from TIS on these two variations of bolts. The M12x1.25 screws are torqued 120Nm + 90 while the old M12x1.5 screws are 80Nm + 90.
@@GarethFoley I just followed this video and did 80Nm + 90 degrees with the new bolts. Should I buy new bolts or hope that they are not at 120Nm yet?
@@GarethFoley Awesome! Thanks for the update.
@@GarethFoley Can you confirm the torque is the same for the 535i (F10) ? also, I believe I need to remove the tension strut ball joint nut on a non xdrive model to access one of the 4 hub bolts. Would you happen the know the torque for this nut?
@@MrSohara89 I know this is a late reply, but if you did it 80Nm, just rotating 35 degree seems enough to meet its torque spec. I checked it when work this job. Otherwise, just buy new one bolt and replace it. when replacing with new bolt, try 80Nm first then 120Nm to check how much degree more rotated. then apply additional degree between 80 and 120 to other bolts.
What torque wrench do you use on the video
WE NEED AN F82 REAR WHEEL BEARING VIDEO!!!! TRYING TO DO THIS MYSELF BUT NEED DIRECTION
Great video! I appreciate your efforts.
Would you / anybody know what bolts are needed on a 2014 335i RWD & if I need to replace the wheel hub and bearing or can I get away with just replacing the bearing??
Lastly thank you for this informative breakdown & install...
Hey Gareth, or the FCP team, do you happen to know the correct torque spec for the rear axles on a F30 335? My rear axle nut keeps coming loose causing a clicking noise during acceleration.
145Nm + 45°. But a few tips on these axle nuts. I always put a little bit of oil on the back side flange (the part that torques against the wheel hub) to prevent any friction from preventing a true torque spec. If the wheel hub is corroded it's important to make sure the seat for the nut is clean of corrosion. Make sure you use a new axle nut and also stake the axle nut once installed to prevent it from being able to back off. There should be two notches on the axle in which you can deform the outer edge of the axle nut into.
Great job. Can you do this same video for the Audi B8.5?
Great video I have to do this job myself on my 328 Xi. One question did you put grease on that spline gear.
Hi Maxx, a small amount will not hurt!
I believe the cut-off date on the old bolts is 10/14. Correct me if I am wrong, if you get a NOS wheel bearing that does not accommodate the new bolt size, then the old style bolt must be used. That being said, I doubt bearings that old are still floating around on the market...but possible. Thanks for the video.
Great video! I tried to start this but the 17mm allen wouldn't come off, even with a breaker bar. It's a 10-year-old F25 that's seen a few NY winters. Should heat do the trick?
Heat and and penetrating fluid should help!
Are these the same instructions for the f10? I have a 2016 535i xdrive
Well, it looks fairly easy. I hope it goes as good for me, I am not a mechanic but accomplished the drive line by myself. Still a little nervous, so my 320i 2015 is not an xdrive and I am replacing both the rear hubs and bearings. Is there anything I need to know different?
Get a long t60 or tp60 bit is crucial!!!! Those 4 rear bolts are extremely difficult yo remove due to its location
Thanks for this. My F30 30d XDrive makes a noise and vibration from the left wheel when I turn left doing 60mph+. I am under the impression it might be the wheel bearing and I due to change the rotors and pads anyways. Any advice for me? Cheers.
Is the principle/process similar for the rear of the F80? Thanks for these videos
Is the back bearing the same as the front?
Great video! Is an alignment needed after this?
No alignment needed
Is this the same for the rears, especially for RWD F3X vehicles
I wish you guys would make a rear wheel bearing DIY lol.
how do you make sure the splines matchup with the new wheel bearing?
Can you show up if you only got jacks to work with
do you have a video on how to replace a wheel baring for a 328i X DRIVE e90?
do you need to change both or only the affected one?
I'd love to see this same job done on a g20 😉
Is it the same prospect for the rear wheel drive Version
Tools is the key here
Is this the same for F06 bmw? Thank you
By chance, same procedure for the BMW G12? (2018 750i X-drive)
Eric, it will be the same general idea!
Do these parts not need any type of grease applied before tightening up and covering? Considering bearings are something that have friction.
Does it need to be a bearing/hub with integrated ABS sensor?
Does this apply to a F06 640iXdrive gran coupe ?
Thanks
X3 owner here. Would the F25 X3 be similar to this? TIA
Sorry for the dumb Question new to this I have an 328i xdrive 09. Do I need a special socket to take off the big center bolt before I take off the rotor etc ?
Have a 2011 328i xdrive. From what I have found, it has a separate hub and bearing. In other words, the bearing gets pressed on the hub. So is this video correct or not correct for my car?
hi guys, could you advise what torque to use on bmw f30 316d 2017 without xdrive.
Is this similar to the e90 328i xdrive?
Gareth, you are DA man! Thanks.
Couple questions:
1) Root cause: Was this case strictly the humming sound while driving or was there slop felt in the bearing when moving the wheel (on hoist)?
2) Would you recommend doing the other side at the same time, regardless of symptoms on that side?
Cheers.
Late on the reply (sorry about that) but I think your question is still relevant to answer for anyone else looking for the same information. This wheel bearing did not have any play in it. However, one thing that was especially of note is the noise from this bearing was louder on right hand turns at speed than left hand turns. Since the noise was coming from the front this indicated to me that the front left wheel bearing was the likely culprit. On visual I also noticed some reddish/brown dust on the back side of the wheel bearing around the tone ring seal. When you see brownish/reddish dust around any bearing (u joints as well) it's a wear situation at that point. And generally, it's advisable to replace both sides to not have to deal with it later on however you can get away with replacing a single wheel bearing. The items we always recommend to replace in pairs are suspension components.
Awesome info, thanks Garett! 👍🏻
Is it the same procedure for an bmw 2 series f22 ?
Change front bearing on mine no xdrive f30 with skf vkba 6781. Thanks for your video, but the new bearing bolt has triple square head with same threads. Can you confirm?
Often times BMW, as well as other manufacturers change hardware, so seeing a triple head square on newer hardware is normal!
Is this the same for G30?
Gareth & FCP Euro rule
Ty
Awesome help thanks
Glad it helped!
Great vid
Great video
How nice from BMW to give us more different nuts and bolts
I wonder how long before they quit using nuts and bolt they should weld everything so when it comes the time to replace your tire you just go buy new BMW 🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬
What can it be on a cold engine for about 10 seconds. I hear the BMW e90 335i N55 rattling
Possibly wastegate rattle
A few possible sources. Wastegate noise is a possibility but if you have the A/C on or the defroster some of the noise could be from the A/C compressor. Past those external elements you could be hearing lifter noise (they can bleed out and take a few second to prime). The other thing you may be hearing is the floating wrist pins for the connecting rods. Since the noise is only present at start up and can't be heard when the engine is warm or while driving it's most likely nothing to worry about.
Can the speed sensor in the wheel bearing be bought separately instead of cleaning?
The wheel speed sensor itself is a separate item. The magnetic tone ring integrated inside the wheel bearing cannot be replaced outside of a wheel bearing hub assembly replacement. A failing wheel bearing can case ABS related issues if the tone ring has been damaged. That's common on wheel bearings that are very worn and have a lot of play.
This is a dumb question but I am new to BMWs. I got an inspection for a 435i I might buy, they said I need new front swivel bearings on each side. Is that the wheel bearing?
"Swivel bearing" is BMW terminology for the front wheel carrier/knuckles. The only reason I am assuming that came up during an inspection is because of a camber problem that could not be corrected via the small amount of adjustment available at the strut tower. BMW has camber correction knuckles for the front suspension. They have knuckles that can either increase camber or decrease camber. However, there are other things like worn control arm bushings that can cause increased camber so replacement of those swivel bearings may not be required.
Hi do you have a video for the rear
We can certainly queue it up!
That f30 is practically new by this time 🥴🥴
Can the axel bolt be reused
No. It's a torque to yield fastener and it should be replaced.
dude wtf those bolt are freaking EXPENSIVE
most of the time youre just changing one bearing so its not that bad
I found I have bolts that have several teeth on the inside. They look like the bolts in the video but with several sides as opposed to just 6. Does anyone have any idea what they are?
I believe it is a 12mm triple square if it has 12 points. That is what my original 14' 535i has.
How is the f20 always forgotten 😭😭
Dealership tried to charge me $1500 for this service
😟
Do you recommend oem or aftermarket wheel bearings