Yes I’m in Nottingham just took delivery of RF 2.0 new bloody love it .Running it in a bit only got 200 miles so far push the revs a little up to around 4500 it still moves at that . Can’t wait till 7500 comes round …😂😂😂
If your thinking about an ND, IMHO is imperative you get the 2.0L ND2 due to a massive factory engine upgrade. The update to the 2-litre engine is fairly extensive with lighter pistons and conrods, revised camshafts, exhaust valves, fuel injectors (operating at a higher pressure), throttle valve and a new free flow air intake assembly. This was carried out to allow the engine to rev much more freely. Although as a consequence the power output also increased significantly. The ND3 has a slightly improved steering rack and a larger info screen but no real improvements.
The extra revs make the ND2 & ND3 more engaging as 6000 to 7500 is where the engine really comes alive... Even better if you take your ND2 to BBR for their Super 220 upgrade that takes it up to 7800rpm. BBR haven't developed a performance upgrade for the ND3 so arguably the ND2 is the one to get if you think that you might at some point want an extra 40bhp. You can add Apple Carplay and Android Auto to an ND1 & ND2 for £70 via a kit from eBay/Amazon which makes the financial jump to an ND3 even less necessary.
@@gamesmaster1060 yes, hence my emphasis with "really". It's up in the high revs, that many people don't take it on a test drive, where it's best. Some people say that the engine is a bit "meh", and I guess it's all relative to what other cars they're comparing it to, but I bet many such commentators haven't taken it up past 6k rpm.
Great video, thanks! A few comments, my Mazda dealer here near London quoted around £2300 for the spherical bearings to be changed. Checked with the guys at MX5 Restorer near Eastbourne and they use a Whiteline kit which costs £400 all in. The window guide and it going rusty was subject to a TSB, not sure if they'd change it for you. Lastly the tyres, I went from stock Bridgestones over to Michelin PS5's and the difference in grip is night and day, way better in the wet. Keep the videos coming, they're great 🙂
Great info, many thanks 👍 Now you mention it, it may well have been £1k/side!! Others are with you on the PS5s tbh, may have to take your advice and try them next.
It’s great to have your comments on this car! Especially as you’re in Scotland with all our challenging weather. I’m still after one for my retirement in a few years, so I’m delighted you’re still enjoying it.
I'm 5ft8inches shoe size 81/2 and heel and toeing is easy peasy. My 2016 Club did need a new tranny after 140,000 miles but never had bearing issues. It was rear ended and totalled (I was not harmed at all). I'm in a 2020 Club, now.
Well done for spending the effort to narrow down everything for mx5 lovers to know! As you said I think these problems are pretty minor and only mechanical problem apart from the info screen. Easy enough to look after them. Super reliable car makes you feel you're the owner of the car but not the other way round😂
I find it very interesting that you seem to prefer ND1 above newer incarnations. Most reviewers say get ND2 or 3. For me that's an issue, in my country the price difference between ND1 and ND2 is huge, like half the price. I'm struggling with the choice. Do you think it's doable to buy ND1 and mod it to the level of ND2 or should I wait and save a bit longer and get the proper ND2? Thanks
@ the nd1 is better value for money, no doubt. Think what I’m trying to say is don’t rule out the 1. The press and so on seem very adamant that the latest is best, but that’s just their opinion and a lot of the time they have to say that. I’ve friends with later cars and I don’t see any massive difference tbh. Maybe I’m a bit biased. You don’t need to modify a 1 to keep up with a 2 or 3. But if you are looking at mods it makes sense to pick a car out of warranty. Don’t get me wrong if someone gave me a newer car I’d be quite happy, but I won’t be using my own money. If you’re worried about being down 20bhp a sports cat, manifold and remap will resolve that, plus give you a bit more torque than the later cars.
Great answer, thank you for that! I think in the end it will be all about what is availible. There are not many of these on the market, and I specificly want 2.0 RF machine gray/soulcrystal red which further limits the options. Anyway, looking forward to join the miata club soon. Thanks again, cheers!
They are great little cars, I had a 30th Anniversary soft top and it brought joy every time I drove it. It is a worry about the drain holes blocking and causing internal water ingress when the rain is heavy over a few days and the rust was also a worry. However, roof down, heater on and you could have an enjoyable drive. I've since sold the car and own an Alpine A110S, that's a great car for different reasons but I miss my little ND, thankfully I get to borrow my son's MX5 NC every so often :) Cheers Kevin
@@edhot5613 Hello Ed, putting to one side the significant difference in price points for the moment I'd say the Alpine is more focused but retains the 'flow' of an MX5 (as long as it isn't the S which mines is but I digress) but with 300bhp. It's that wonderful light weight feeling but in a car with higher levels of capability. I will always have a soft spot for the MX5 and do miss a few things in particular: the gear change (Alpine's don't have that) and the obvious roof down which completely changes the perspective. I don't however worry about underbody rust, spherical bearings failure, gearbox issues or water leaks when the rain is really heavy (no garage) - none of these were a problem in my ownership experience but the internet can scare you! Oh one personal view, the Recaro seats in my 30th Anniversary edition were not comfortable over a long journey and the single piece Alpine seats that have less adjustability are super comfortable.
@@edhot5613 Honestly, the Alpine was an impulse buy for me and I was in a position to go for it. Had it been a purely value for money decision, I'm not so sure it stacks up - you have to really want that increased pace, improved handling and a mid-engined layout. I'd say if you have an Alpine dealer nearby, test drive one! PS I'd forgotten about the window regulators - honestly after reading some of the MX5 forums you'd be terrified to use it :)
The seatbelt issue id recommend give it a clean with soapy water then once its dry spray it with silicone spray will reduce the friction and itll retract no problem
I'm surprised at your comments on heel/toe. I've got an ND2 2.0 and the pedals are well set for it, just like my NC Roadster was. I agree the steering feel is not top notch like my NC was and that's because they changed from a hydraulic to an electric power steering rack for the ND to enable Lane Assist (the car has to be able to operate the steering if it senses you've left the lane) and you need electronics and an electric rack for that. But Lane Assist is the one feature on my ND that I have turned off all the time! It may work well on motorways but on fast A & B roads where you use both sides of the road when pressing on it gets in the way.
Must be my clumsy feet, doh!! Will keep practicing. Lane assist is just a pain no doubt. I keep it off all the time too. Watched a video the other day, think it was Harry's Garage, where they explained that from 2024 onwards all this safety stuff is mandatory now and must have a minimum of 2 buttons to de-active. The world has gone mad!!
The rear bushes are the lower ones. The further forward one gets all the spray from the rear tyre. The seals arent great , which allows water and dirt into the bushes, corrode and destroy. I checked mine on my ND1 ( 20k miles) and using a bicycle grease gun, stuck the nozzle under the seals and squirted waterproof grease , to prevent water increase. I hope this will just make the bushes last longer. The brakes will probably be the sliders are gritty and just need a strip off the calipers and clean up. All easy to do. Subframe and rot. See Bilt Hamber products. The first thing I did before agreeing to buy was lie on my back in the dealers shop with a torch and looked underneath. Any excessive rust and I would have said no. If you do rust protect yourself its a hateful job. Also note that the side sill covers fill with mud and dirt and you need to remove these to clean them out and then spray wax to protect the sills. I was surprised on how much was in there. Same with behind the wheel arch liners. Roof drains are a nuisance to do, but our sponges were pretty grime filled , so never been done. We usually put a hat on the screen to stop it baking in the sun, to hopefully help against delamination,when parked up. When moving its obviously cooler. The cars are great for a weekend car to tinker. Still pretty analogue as a whole. Mine has the BBR super 190 conversion , including the full exhaust . There is other perfomance trinkets on it but not to make major HP, thats not the point Also the BBR springs which lower in and does prevent the body roll . Any Eibach or BBR springs that are progressive are much better than standard. I am looking at anti roll bars next. They arent a fast car. They are a fun , roof down and nippy car. We are heading round Scotland in ours in April next year, which is a 2000 mile trip away. Yes, its small and cramped, but part of its charm. Happy we bought it early this year. I have changed the diff oil and have the gearbox oil to do as yet, which is a winter ticker job. Happy to own this one and keeping it protected from rot is always a good selling point should the time come to move it on. I have seen other cars which are loved and cherished, but the underside can still be pretty rough. If you arent sure when buying, then be wise and have an inspection. Owners clubs are good in some ways , such as runs out with like minded powered cars, but they do entice keyboard warriors which can be off putting. As a whole clubs are pretty helpful with discounts as well.
Great post, great info, many thanks 👍 Will be stripping the rear calipers over winter to clean, another tinkering job, plus full service, all fluids. Probably remove the side sill covers too to remove any buildup, good tip. Are you doing the nc500?? We live on the west coast of Scotland, some great roads, very mx5 friendly 😎
@@midlifemotors5050 Loosely, yes. We are in Newbury, so head to Kendal, then into Scotland via Glasgow, then to ferry to Skye , lap around there , back over the new bridge , NC500 round the top including Belach Na Ba . A few Pods to sleep in and B&B's , head down to Inverness, Drumnadrochit , then to see friends in Kircaldy . Also have the Kelpies to visit, the to Sunderland to the in laws and home again. All booked except the ferry crossing, so cant wait.
@@midlifemotors5050 If you do the side sills, you will need new fixings for the covers, as they will break, however gently you remove them. There is a place on ebay that does them cheap enough as packs for ironically 2 miles from my house in Newbury. With the MX5 full of plastic clips, I just bought those, plus wheel liner clips and other fasteners for stock.
I'd love one, sadly I'm slightly too big for comfort having tried one. Great video again! Would love to see you to do an AMA or Q and A. Keep on going, dude!
Hello there. recent 2016 1.5 soft top owner here. I love my car. But main Mazda dealer sold me the car with "full service history" but the gear oil had never been done. It was shifting not very nice, especially when cold. So I agree about just saving money privately, Mazda used dont check correctly or spend money on the cars they sell, they always fit unheard off cheapest budget brand tyres on too. (I have a big list of Mazda dealer complaints.) But I would buy new if I had the money lol. Off your list only the brakes I dont think I have had issue with. Different ones maybe on the lighter less power 1.5. I got Mazda to give me new belts as its a known fault in design. They try cleaning them first but it didnt work for me at all. I got the touchscreen fixed on warranty. And also the rusty window guide. They lubricated my window regulator. My bushes dont look great and have purchased bit by bit a whole rear end of uprated bushes and new link arms etc to be fitted sometime. very expensive. I couldnt face complaining about that so doing it myself. The car is softly compliant, ok for potholes and speedbumps I suppose. Handling fun but scares me a bit, I can lose the rear on roundabouts, I dont think it can be normal so I think its bush related. Although its quite similar on the simulator. I need your rear spoiler. My tip for future owners is if you park on the busy packed town streets like me try find a car with rear bumper camera or parking sensors. Both ends difficult to judge. You can buy seat lowering kits if you feel too high up, havent fitted mine yet (will make parking even harder though!). Also an expensive steering wheel spacer with electric loom extension to bring it closer. Later models have telescopic reach wheel.
cheers and thx for this....i am currently looking into getting a mx5 maybe 2 to 4 years old here in germany.....and as you said...not a bad time to get one....although it looks like there won't be a 2 litre one soon, i shall look for one with the bigger engine....cheers.
@@midlifemotors5050I find that heel & toe is fine if you use the ball of your foot on the brake and pivot to use the heel to dab the accelerator. I gave up trying to do it with the left side of my foot on the brake and rolling the right side of my foot onto the accelerator.
Enjoyed your video. As a long term 2016 ND1 Club BBS Brembo owner, I was surprised about your heel toe comment as I find mine ideal, coul be mine is a left hand drive model. I do agree the power upgrade on the ND2 is somewhat overrated. Some well respected magazines have testing showing a modest 0.1 second improvement in 0-60 mph improvement in acceleration. I do take issue with the MX-5 not being a good track day car. A set of lower/ stiffer springs and sway bars in addition to upgraded pads and brake pads are all you really need. The low cost of track consumables make track time affordable for those of more modest means. Cheers
Excellent report thank you. Topical as I’ve been looking at these as a replacement or addition to my 2004 R53 Mini. I just fancy lying on my back playing with the rear wheels as a bit of a diversion. I’ve only so far sat in two showroom Mk IVs ND2 and ND3 and ‘passengered’ in an NC3. For me, I’d have to have the RF with Recaros, which are only standard on the UK ND3 Homura. So in current market at the mo’, minimum £30kish for a pre-reg. Then there’s the body roll. You are one of the few reviewers that comes straight out and says you’ll need modified suspension. Just springs maybe, but what a hassle, especially on a young car with warranty. There’s literally nowhere else to go though on the Caterham to Cayman performance/comfort/price continuum (ok, plastic boy racer GR86 maybe). I’ll probably have one next year when the lightly used ND3 Homuras are down to £25k.
I’ve only done springs and geometry so far but I think ARBs will be next. We’re finding a Mini & MX5 a good combination tbh. Both great in different ways. Can’t help but think an 04 R53 would be worth holding on to 👌
I just bought an ND1 RF 2017 launch edition. Beautiful car. Main things I noticed is the pedals are slightly to the right vs other cars which takes a bit of getting used to. Takes a bit of time to learn to drive it smoothly. It's quite sensitive to pedal and clutch movements as it's so light and quite a bit of torque low down. Recaro seats are only suited for reasonably sized people. Otherwise it's too tight on the side and leg bolsters.
The body roll was something that i also didn't like (even though the car still handles very well). I put Eibach Pro springs and Eibach anti-roll bars (sway bars for the Americans) and it's much better without compromising compliance on British b-roads and no grounding issue with UK speed-bumps.
Getting my rear bushes upgraded to the spherical third party units. £300 including the tool. It'll be off to the mechanic to fit them. Mid 2018 car with 30k miles and a knocking offside rear. I may as well get all four done as a preventative measure.
@@midlifemotors5050 They are a UK crowd called performancebushes. If you buy the set of 4 they also include the tool. It looks a sensible job so long as you can get the wheels off the ground.
I was considering moving from my well sorted NB model to an early ND but the gearbox issue alone put me off. Factor £5K to sort the 'box made of cheese' issue. No wonder these can be had for sub £10K now. Add the body roll, which requires lowering and stiffer A/R bars, the electric steering, the rear bushes, the dodgy paint etc - I'm looking at an Abarth 124 as a much better buy. Pity as the ND looks fantastic.
8:35 I don’t understand why you say that it’s only torque that matters, not horsepower. I’d go further and say that there is widespread lack of understanding on the whole subject. Torque and horsepower are both quoted as peak figures at a particular rpm, which means very little because the engine doesn’t operate at a single rpm. What actually matters is the power curve vs rpm (or the torque curve vs rpm if you prefer - they are different ways of presenting the same data). Absolute torque value is not important in itself because it is converted to power by the gearbox. Interested in your thoughts! Just to add, power = torque x rpm (scaled for units), so if you have the torque curve you can calculate the power curve and visa-versa.
Sounds like you know way more about this than me to be fair it's just my experience/opinion, that's all. I've just always preferred a torquie engine with low down grunt to fire you out of the corner to a revy one where you just seem to wait all the time. In my younger days we tuned evos and scoobys and it was always the torque we had to limit and map to protect the drivetrain and improve driveability.
@ Yes, it’s not so much the peak torque (although that’s what is quoted) as the shape of the torque curve. A wider curve gives you power through the curve as you accelerate from low speed out of a corner without having to change gear. I used to race Rotax 125 air cooled karts back in the 90s and all the power was between 7000 and 9000 rpm and you needed very frequent changes through the 7 speed box to stay in it. On a 50 second lap I was changing gear about 50 times. Clutch not needed - just bang it through the gears.
Buffeting doesn’t really start till above 65/70 I’d say and it really isn’t as bad as the soft top owners would have you believe. Yeah you notice the roofs down but doesn’t spoil the drive. Need to be aware of rust and bushes for sure 👍 The bushes seem to be mileage rather than age related.
I’m afraid not, no. I’m only 5’10” and the seat is already all the way back. You’ll fit in a MK3 though. Late mk3, 2014, is a great car. Better steering for a start.
This is harder to answer than a simple yes/no. I have this exact car, I'm 6,1 and I fit perfectly. I don't even have the seat all the way back. It depends how you like to sit in relation to pedals. Can I reach the pedals with the seat all the way back? Yes. Do I NEED to have it all the way back? No. I just went to a dealer and asked if I could sit in one before deciding I wanted it.
@ thanks for getting back so lsd will that much of difference? The reason I want to get 1.5 is cheaper to run for long term that’s if I like it, this will be my first ever sports car I will own. You suggested getting 2017 onwards due to upgrades, does that applies to the 1.5 as well?
@@cheungman83 Get a car registered after March 2017, you’ll thank yourself later. The lsd depends. If the car is going to be more of a hood down enjoy the scenery type of car then no lsd is probably better, less tram-lining for a start. If however you’re going to drive in harder and chase apexes then you’ll miss the lsd. The diff on the MX5 works well, it’s good, not too snatchy and really lets you get the best out of the cars chassis.
Thanks for your review and information. The best car ever ! MX5 Must have a soft top ! Nd2 better than nd1 Nd3 better than nd2. So , must soft top And for the suspension Eibach pro plus kit spring and sway bar.
Yes they still do with the 1.5 engines. Chap on MX5 OC had a brand new car recently (2024) elderly guy spent his money. Mazda weren't much cop, so after waiting ages, rejected the car for a refund.
@lassydogpie5390 NC is the conversion to make the ND gearbox better. But you need the Fiat differential and a bell housing conversion from BBR and a lot of cash. NC is better in that respect, but don't let it out you off. I prefer the ND soft top than my son in laws NC that he used to have.
Enjoying a bit of daylight 😎
Any other owners/potential owners out there??
Yes I’m in Nottingham just took delivery of RF 2.0 new bloody love it .Running it in a bit only got 200 miles so far push the revs a little up to around 4500 it still moves at that . Can’t wait till 7500 comes round …😂😂😂
@@Mike-ip8hg Exciting times 😀 Health to enjoy your new car, you’ll love it 👍
from Slovakia..I bought the last 2 litre in my country..not regretting it.
Just bought my 2024 RF Club this past weekend, loving it! Edit: North America here, 2.0L 181HP motor.
@@pauliericher8504 great purchase 👍 very cool to have the last car too
If your thinking about an ND, IMHO is imperative you get the 2.0L ND2 due to a massive factory engine upgrade. The update to the 2-litre engine is fairly extensive with lighter pistons and conrods, revised camshafts, exhaust valves, fuel injectors (operating at a higher pressure), throttle valve and a new free flow air intake assembly.
This was carried out to allow the engine to rev much more freely. Although as a consequence the power output also increased significantly.
The ND3 has a slightly improved steering rack and a larger info screen but no real improvements.
The extra revs make the ND2 & ND3 more engaging as 6000 to 7500 is where the engine really comes alive... Even better if you take your ND2 to BBR for their Super 220 upgrade that takes it up to 7800rpm.
BBR haven't developed a performance upgrade for the ND3 so arguably the ND2 is the one to get if you think that you might at some point want an extra 40bhp. You can add Apple Carplay and Android Auto to an ND1 & ND2 for £70 via a kit from eBay/Amazon which makes the financial jump to an ND3 even less necessary.
@@justinbennitt835 The engine feels 'alive' well below that rpm
@@gamesmaster1060 yes, hence my emphasis with "really". It's up in the high revs, that many people don't take it on a test drive, where it's best. Some people say that the engine is a bit "meh", and I guess it's all relative to what other cars they're comparing it to, but I bet many such commentators haven't taken it up past 6k rpm.
Great video, thanks! A few comments, my Mazda dealer here near London quoted around £2300 for the spherical bearings to be changed. Checked with the guys at MX5 Restorer near Eastbourne and they use a Whiteline kit which costs £400 all in.
The window guide and it going rusty was subject to a TSB, not sure if they'd change it for you.
Lastly the tyres, I went from stock Bridgestones over to Michelin PS5's and the difference in grip is night and day, way better in the wet.
Keep the videos coming, they're great 🙂
Great info, many thanks 👍
Now you mention it, it may well have been £1k/side!!
Others are with you on the PS5s tbh, may have to take your advice and try them next.
I love your thoughts on why you love the car.
Cheers 👍
It’s great to have your comments on this car! Especially as you’re in Scotland with all our challenging weather. I’m still after one for my retirement in a few years, so I’m delighted you’re still enjoying it.
My favourite car 😎 But I do try and be honest, both good and bad.
A great review of this model. You have accurately noted all the good points as well as the quirks, and I agree... heal'n toe is not an easy task.
Many thanks for tuning in 👍
I'm 5ft8inches shoe size 81/2 and heel and toeing is easy peasy. My 2016 Club did need a new tranny after 140,000 miles but never had bearing issues. It was rear ended and totalled (I was not harmed at all). I'm in a 2020 Club, now.
Well done for spending the effort to narrow down everything for mx5 lovers to know! As you said I think these problems are pretty minor and only mechanical problem apart from the info screen. Easy enough to look after them. Super reliable car makes you feel you're the owner of the car but not the other way round😂
Oh, it’s still a great car, no doubt and any manufacturer has issues. The MX5s are by no means show stoppers, all relatively cheap and easy to fix 👍
Saving my pennies so I can buy an mx5 rf after the new year, cannot wait 👍👍
Great stuff, exciting times 👍
I'm prepraring to fullfill my dream and get one of those. That video was very usefull, thanks.
Great cars, just watch out for rust and you’ll love it 👌
I find it very interesting that you seem to prefer ND1 above newer incarnations. Most reviewers say get ND2 or 3. For me that's an issue, in my country the price difference between ND1 and ND2 is huge, like half the price. I'm struggling with the choice. Do you think it's doable to buy ND1 and mod it to the level of ND2 or should I wait and save a bit longer and get the proper ND2?
Thanks
@ the nd1 is better value for money, no doubt. Think what I’m trying to say is don’t rule out the 1. The press and so on seem very adamant that the latest is best, but that’s just their opinion and a lot of the time they have to say that. I’ve friends with later cars and I don’t see any massive difference tbh.
Maybe I’m a bit biased.
You don’t need to modify a 1 to keep up with a 2 or 3. But if you are looking at mods it makes sense to pick a car out of warranty.
Don’t get me wrong if someone gave me a newer car I’d be quite happy, but I won’t be using my own money.
If you’re worried about being down 20bhp a sports cat, manifold and remap will resolve that, plus give you a bit more torque than the later cars.
Great answer, thank you for that!
I think in the end it will be all about what is availible. There are not many of these on the market, and I specificly want 2.0 RF machine gray/soulcrystal red which further limits the options.
Anyway, looking forward to join the miata club soon. Thanks again, cheers!
They are great little cars, I had a 30th Anniversary soft top and it brought joy every time I drove it. It is a worry about the drain holes blocking and causing internal water ingress when the rain is heavy over a few days and the rust was also a worry. However, roof down, heater on and you could have an enjoyable drive. I've since sold the car and own an Alpine A110S, that's a great car for different reasons but I miss my little ND, thankfully I get to borrow my son's MX5 NC every so often :) Cheers Kevin
Oh, Alpine, very nice 👌 The 30th Anniversary is a great spec car.
@@edhot5613 Hello Ed, putting to one side the significant difference in price points for the moment I'd say the Alpine is more focused but retains the 'flow' of an MX5 (as long as it isn't the S which mines is but I digress) but with 300bhp. It's that wonderful light weight feeling but in a car with higher levels of capability. I will always have a soft spot for the MX5 and do miss a few things in particular: the gear change (Alpine's don't have that) and the obvious roof down which completely changes the perspective. I don't however worry about underbody rust, spherical bearings failure, gearbox issues or water leaks when the rain is really heavy (no garage) - none of these were a problem in my ownership experience but the internet can scare you! Oh one personal view, the Recaro seats in my 30th Anniversary edition were not comfortable over a long journey and the single piece Alpine seats that have less adjustability are super comfortable.
@@edhot5613 Honestly, the Alpine was an impulse buy for me and I was in a position to go for it. Had it been a purely value for money decision, I'm not so sure it stacks up - you have to really want that increased pace, improved handling and a mid-engined layout. I'd say if you have an Alpine dealer nearby, test drive one! PS I'd forgotten about the window regulators - honestly after reading some of the MX5 forums you'd be terrified to use it :)
The seatbelt issue id recommend give it a clean with soapy water then once its dry spray it with silicone spray will reduce the friction and itll retract no problem
I'm surprised at your comments on heel/toe. I've got an ND2 2.0 and the pedals are well set for it, just like my NC Roadster was. I agree the steering feel is not top notch like my NC was and that's because they changed from a hydraulic to an electric power steering rack for the ND to enable Lane Assist (the car has to be able to operate the steering if it senses you've left the lane) and you need electronics and an electric rack for that.
But Lane Assist is the one feature on my ND that I have turned off all the time! It may work well on motorways but on fast A & B roads where you use both sides of the road when pressing on it gets in the way.
Must be my clumsy feet, doh!! Will keep practicing.
Lane assist is just a pain no doubt. I keep it off all the time too. Watched a video the other day, think it was Harry's Garage, where they explained that from 2024 onwards all this safety stuff is mandatory now and must have a minimum of 2 buttons to de-active. The world has gone mad!!
The rear bushes are the lower ones. The further forward one gets all the spray from the rear tyre. The seals arent great , which allows water and dirt into the bushes, corrode and destroy. I checked mine on my ND1 ( 20k miles) and using a bicycle grease gun, stuck the nozzle under the seals and squirted waterproof grease , to prevent water increase. I hope this will just make the bushes last longer.
The brakes will probably be the sliders are gritty and just need a strip off the calipers and clean up. All easy to do.
Subframe and rot. See Bilt Hamber products. The first thing I did before agreeing to buy was lie on my back in the dealers shop with a torch and looked underneath. Any excessive rust and I would have said no. If you do rust protect yourself its a hateful job. Also note that the side sill covers fill with mud and dirt and you need to remove these to clean them out and then spray wax to protect the sills. I was surprised on how much was in there. Same with behind the wheel arch liners.
Roof drains are a nuisance to do, but our sponges were pretty grime filled , so never been done. We usually put a hat on the screen to stop it baking in the sun, to hopefully help against delamination,when parked up. When moving its obviously cooler.
The cars are great for a weekend car to tinker. Still pretty analogue as a whole. Mine has the BBR super 190 conversion , including the full exhaust . There is other perfomance trinkets on it but not to make major HP, thats not the point Also the BBR springs which lower in and does prevent the body roll . Any Eibach or BBR springs that are progressive are much better than standard. I am looking at anti roll bars next.
They arent a fast car. They are a fun , roof down and nippy car. We are heading round Scotland in ours in April next year, which is a 2000 mile trip away. Yes, its small and cramped, but part of its charm. Happy we bought it early this year. I have changed the diff oil and have the gearbox oil to do as yet, which is a winter ticker job.
Happy to own this one and keeping it protected from rot is always a good selling point should the time come to move it on. I have seen other cars which are loved and cherished, but the underside can still be pretty rough. If you arent sure when buying, then be wise and have an inspection. Owners clubs are good in some ways , such as runs out with like minded powered cars, but they do entice keyboard warriors which can be off putting. As a whole clubs are pretty helpful with discounts as well.
Great post, great info, many thanks 👍
Will be stripping the rear calipers over winter to clean, another tinkering job, plus full service, all fluids. Probably remove the side sill covers too to remove any buildup, good tip.
Are you doing the nc500?? We live on the west coast of Scotland, some great roads, very mx5 friendly 😎
@@midlifemotors5050 Loosely, yes. We are in Newbury, so head to Kendal, then into Scotland via Glasgow, then to ferry to Skye , lap around there , back over the new bridge , NC500 round the top including Belach Na Ba . A few Pods to sleep in and B&B's , head down to Inverness, Drumnadrochit , then to see friends in Kircaldy . Also have the Kelpies to visit, the to Sunderland to the in laws and home again. All booked except the ferry crossing, so cant wait.
@@midlifemotors5050 If you do the side sills, you will need new fixings for the covers, as they will break, however gently you remove them. There is a place on ebay that does them cheap enough as packs for ironically 2 miles from my house in Newbury. With the MX5 full of plastic clips, I just bought those, plus wheel liner clips and other fasteners for stock.
@@justinsheldon5015 sounds superb. Skye is fantastic and bridge is a great photo spot. Fingers crossed you get the weather, that’ll make it perfect 👌
Great posting, thanks. Looking right now to buy an RF, some good useful stuff here.
Great cars, just check for rust
I'd love one, sadly I'm slightly too big for comfort having tried one. Great video again! Would love to see you to do an AMA or Q and A. Keep on going, dude!
Many thanks for the kind words, much appreciated 👍
Hello there. recent 2016 1.5 soft top owner here. I love my car. But main Mazda dealer sold me the car with "full service history" but the gear oil had never been done. It was shifting not very nice, especially when cold. So I agree about just saving money privately, Mazda used dont check correctly or spend money on the cars they sell, they always fit unheard off cheapest budget brand tyres on too. (I have a big list of Mazda dealer complaints.) But I would buy new if I had the money lol.
Off your list only the brakes I dont think I have had issue with. Different ones maybe on the lighter less power 1.5.
I got Mazda to give me new belts as its a known fault in design. They try cleaning them first but it didnt work for me at all.
I got the touchscreen fixed on warranty. And also the rusty window guide. They lubricated my window regulator.
My bushes dont look great and have purchased bit by bit a whole rear end of uprated bushes and new link arms etc to be fitted sometime. very expensive. I couldnt face complaining about that so doing it myself.
The car is softly compliant, ok for potholes and speedbumps I suppose. Handling fun but scares me a bit, I can lose the rear on roundabouts, I dont think it can be normal so I think its bush related. Although its quite similar on the simulator. I need your rear spoiler.
My tip for future owners is if you park on the busy packed town streets like me try find a car with rear bumper camera or parking sensors. Both ends difficult to judge.
You can buy seat lowering kits if you feel too high up, havent fitted mine yet (will make parking even harder though!). Also an expensive steering wheel spacer with electric loom extension to bring it closer. Later models have telescopic reach wheel.
Brilliant info there, many thanks, I’m sure others will greatly appreciate also 👍
cheers and thx for this....i am currently looking into getting a mx5 maybe 2 to 4 years old here in germany.....and as you said...not a bad time to get one....although it looks like there won't be a 2 litre one soon, i shall look for one with the bigger engine....cheers.
Sounds like a 2.0 ND2 will suit you perfectly 👍 Good thing about MX5s there’s a model for everyone and every price point. Enjoy
Re your heel/toe difficulties, Verus Engineering have a product that raises the height of the accelerator pedal. Works a treat.
Oh, good info, thanks 👍 Off to do a search
@@midlifemotors5050I find that heel & toe is fine if you use the ball of your foot on the brake and pivot to use the heel to dab the accelerator. I gave up trying to do it with the left side of my foot on the brake and rolling the right side of my foot onto the accelerator.
Enjoyed your video. As a long term 2016 ND1 Club BBS Brembo owner, I was surprised about your heel toe comment as I find mine ideal, coul be mine is a left hand drive model. I do agree the power upgrade on the ND2 is somewhat overrated. Some well respected magazines have testing showing a modest 0.1 second improvement in 0-60 mph improvement in acceleration. I do take issue with the MX-5 not being a good track day car. A set of lower/ stiffer springs and sway bars in addition to upgraded pads and brake pads are all you really need. The low cost of track consumables make track time affordable for those of more modest means. Cheers
Excellent report thank you. Topical as I’ve been looking at these as a replacement or addition to my 2004 R53 Mini. I just fancy lying on my back playing with the rear wheels as a bit of a diversion. I’ve only so far sat in two showroom Mk IVs ND2 and ND3 and ‘passengered’ in an NC3. For me, I’d have to have the RF with Recaros, which are only standard on the UK ND3 Homura. So in current market at the mo’, minimum £30kish for a pre-reg. Then there’s the body roll. You are one of the few reviewers that comes straight out and says you’ll need modified suspension. Just springs maybe, but what a hassle, especially on a young car with warranty. There’s literally nowhere else to go though on the Caterham to Cayman performance/comfort/price continuum (ok, plastic boy racer GR86 maybe). I’ll probably have one next year when the lightly used ND3 Homuras are down to £25k.
I’ve only done springs and geometry so far but I think ARBs will be next.
We’re finding a Mini & MX5 a good combination tbh. Both great in different ways. Can’t help but think an 04 R53 would be worth holding on to 👌
I think I might get one.
Good thought 👍
I just bought an ND1 RF 2017 launch edition. Beautiful car. Main things I noticed is the pedals are slightly to the right vs other cars which takes a bit of getting used to. Takes a bit of time to learn to drive it smoothly. It's quite sensitive to pedal and clutch movements as it's so light and quite a bit of torque low down. Recaro seats are only suited for reasonably sized people. Otherwise it's too tight on the side and leg bolsters.
Can't argue with any of that, great choice, clearly gone for the best MX5 variant...IN THE WORLD 😉
The body roll was something that i also didn't like (even though the car still handles very well). I put Eibach Pro springs and Eibach anti-roll bars (sway bars for the Americans) and it's much better without compromising compliance on British b-roads and no grounding issue with UK speed-bumps.
Think I’m going to do ARBs next tbh. Quite a few people have recommended them now.
I’d get a super light 1.5 rag top
Getting my rear bushes upgraded to the spherical third party units. £300 including the tool. It'll be off to the mechanic to fit them. Mid 2018 car with 30k miles and a knocking offside rear. I may as well get all four done as a preventative measure.
Absolutely do the preventative work, very wise. It’s good to know there is a sensibly priced solution, phew!,
@@midlifemotors5050 They are a UK crowd called performancebushes. If you buy the set of 4 they also include the tool. It looks a sensible job so long as you can get the wheels off the ground.
I was considering moving from my well sorted NB model to an early ND but the gearbox issue alone put me off. Factor £5K to sort the 'box made of cheese' issue. No wonder these can be had for sub £10K now. Add the body roll, which requires lowering and stiffer A/R bars, the electric steering, the rear bushes, the dodgy paint etc - I'm looking at an Abarth 124 as a much better buy. Pity as the ND looks fantastic.
Nice review. May I know your height? Seems the head room quite promising
Thanks 👍 5’10” I’d say up to 6 foot you’re ok, after that, hmmmm
@midlifemotors5050 Just nice I am 6 feet tall. Tested RS before only not sure RF. Thanks for reply.
8:35 I don’t understand why you say that it’s only torque that matters, not horsepower. I’d go further and say that there is widespread lack of understanding on the whole subject. Torque and horsepower are both quoted as peak figures at a particular rpm, which means very little because the engine doesn’t operate at a single rpm. What actually matters is the power curve vs rpm (or the torque curve vs rpm if you prefer - they are different ways of presenting the same data). Absolute torque value is not important in itself because it is converted to power by the gearbox. Interested in your thoughts!
Just to add, power = torque x rpm (scaled for units), so if you have the torque curve you can calculate the power curve and visa-versa.
Sounds like you know way more about this than me to be fair it's just my experience/opinion, that's all.
I've just always preferred a torquie engine with low down grunt to fire you out of the corner to a revy one where you just seem to wait all the time.
In my younger days we tuned evos and scoobys and it was always the torque we had to limit and map to protect the drivetrain and improve driveability.
@ Yes, it’s not so much the peak torque (although that’s what is quoted) as the shape of the torque curve. A wider curve gives you power through the curve as you accelerate from low speed out of a corner without having to change gear. I used to race Rotax 125 air cooled karts back in the 90s and all the power was between 7000 and 9000 rpm and you needed very frequent changes through the 7 speed box to stay in it. On a 50 second lap I was changing gear about 50 times. Clutch not needed - just bang it through the gears.
How do you find the buffeting and noise when you go over 50 mpg with top off 🤔 worried about rust and rear hub bush issues 😳
Buffeting doesn’t really start till above 65/70 I’d say and it really isn’t as bad as the soft top owners would have you believe. Yeah you notice the roofs down but doesn’t spoil the drive.
Need to be aware of rust and bushes for sure 👍 The bushes seem to be mileage rather than age related.
Liked & subbed. 6'3" - too tall?
Many thanks 👍 - I think so , yes. But I’d rather be 6’3” 😀
Just a question, would i fit in ok at 6ft 3? Thanks.
I’m afraid not, no. I’m only 5’10” and the seat is already all the way back.
You’ll fit in a MK3 though. Late mk3, 2014, is a great car. Better steering for a start.
@midlifemotors5050 cheers matey, 👍
This is harder to answer than a simple yes/no. I have this exact car, I'm 6,1 and I fit perfectly. I don't even have the seat all the way back. It depends how you like to sit in relation to pedals. Can I reach the pedals with the seat all the way back? Yes. Do I NEED to have it all the way back? No.
I just went to a dealer and asked if I could sit in one before deciding I wanted it.
As a Mk3 owner, they suffer from the sticky seat belt retraction and rusting window pillars as well.
How to Mazda many to get the easy stuff so wrong 🤔
Would never buy an ND1 unless I was supercharging it. Pony up for ND2.
Fair enough
Mazda 3 2016 does same with brakes. 1st dab is dull. 2nd dab puts u thru the front window.
Strange isn’t it 🤔
Have you drove the 1.5 before? just want to see what’s your thoughts on differences between your mx5
I haven’t unfortunately, apparently it’s a peach of an engine. Not sure the 1.5s have an lsd though and I think you’d miss that.
@ thanks for getting back so lsd will that much of difference? The reason I want to get 1.5 is cheaper to run for long term that’s if I like it, this will be my first ever sports car I will own. You suggested getting 2017 onwards due to upgrades, does that applies to the 1.5 as well?
@@cheungman83 Get a car registered after March 2017, you’ll thank yourself later.
The lsd depends. If the car is going to be more of a hood down enjoy the scenery type of car then no lsd is probably better, less tram-lining for a start.
If however you’re going to drive in harder and chase apexes then you’ll miss the lsd. The diff on the MX5 works well, it’s good, not too snatchy and really lets you get the best out of the cars chassis.
Thanks for your review and information.
The best car ever !
MX5 Must have a soft top !
Nd2 better than nd1
Nd3 better than nd2.
So , must soft top
And for the suspension Eibach pro plus kit spring and sway bar.
That’s the great thing about MX5s, model/variant for all tastes and budgets.
Id get a light 1.5 plus they don’t have exploding gearboxes
Yes, great choice 👍
Yes they still do with the 1.5 engines. Chap on MX5 OC had a brand new car recently (2024) elderly guy spent his money. Mazda weren't much cop, so after waiting ages, rejected the car for a refund.
@ never heard of one on the 1.5.. it’s enough to make me want to keep my nc
@lassydogpie5390 NC is the conversion to make the ND gearbox better. But you need the Fiat differential and a bell housing conversion from BBR and a lot of cash. NC is better in that respect, but don't let it out you off. I prefer the ND soft top than my son in laws NC that he used to have.
@ I had a nd yrs ago, felt lighter and nimbler than my prht nc
:D
I am shocked tbh
Nights suck d i k
Yup 🤣🤣