This video was exactly what I needed to fix my fridge. HUGE thanks to Repair Clinic for getting me the new wire harness ASAP and providing this great how-to video for installing it. It took about every tool in my toolbox and 2 hours to do it, but that's KitchenAids fault for making this critical cable so difficult to replace. Thanks again!
Thank you very much for this video Repair Clinic. We had a repair man come out and charged $150.00 just to say our fridge wasn't repairable. I watch the video a few time and thought, why not give it a try. Purchased the wire harness from Repair Clinic per the link supplied for $55.00 About an hour of time and the fridge is as good as new. Thanks again....
A HUGE Thank You to the Repair Clinic for this video. Very easy to follow and extremely clear instructions. repaired it myself and saved me a 400$ service call that wouldn't have happened for about 4 weeks. Thank you again
My lights went off along with no water or ice making/dispensing and the deli drawer cooling selection indicator was off. The wire harness replaced in this video was the culprit! Ordered the part from you and replaced it following this video. Thank you so much for the explicit step by step instructions to replace this wire harness! Fixed!
Thank you for this excellent instructional video. My wire harness also failed with the following strange symptoms: first "open door" icon was flashing and chiming with doors closed; then after pulling pantry door plug and powering off and on, the LDEs inside fridge would stay on: after more fiddling with plug and power, got the LEDs to stay off, even with door open. Confirm harness wires a problem by pulling on individual wires - 4 wires had snapped at the flex point. This is a common problem referenced on appliance repair sites, and KitchenAid should provide replacement harnesses for free. Poor engineering of wire harness is the root cause.
Replaced the deli drawer control panel but that did not fix my problems (door ajar signal sounding, no water dispensing, no ice making, no lights). Strangely, almost all fridge features returned after I disconnected the deli drawer control panel (only problem remaining is deli drawer light doesn't work). Can I deduce that the pantry drawer wiring harness needs to be replaced to restore the full functioning? Did the wiring fail because water is getting under the deli drawer control board? If so, how do I prevent this from happening again? What's the harm in just leaving the deli drawer control panel disconnected?
Thank you for this video! Your instructions were spot on. Thanks to you, this old computer nerd got the fridge fixed like a pro. And the best part is the old harness had a severed wire under the mesh, so it was obviously the fault. I agree with the earlier post about the harness being a bad design. To be honest, we never even use the temperature buttons that the harness connects to, so it could all just go away, IMO.
Slight issue...my lights are out and my ice and water dispensers stopped working at same time lights did. Read and watched your great video...decided to go to left pantry meat drawer..wiggled the wire by where rail meets front of drawer. And my lights came on...but...the door open light is illuminated when all doors are fully shut. Can you deduce from this if it's the wiring harness or is it one of the 3 control boards? Also , is there a way to disconnect something so the door open chime doesn't keep going off with this issue. Thank you.
Can you come by and fix my fridge. I am stuck with this lemon and nobody wants to repair it. I have done two repairs on it myself already, and this one is a bit daunting. haha. Thank you for the video.
Wondering if you could advise me here... My fridge lights stopped turning on, and my water stopped dispensing at the same time. If the water paddle was pressed, water would randomly dispense minutes later instead of right when it was pressed. After reading up on the issue, it seemed like there could be a connection issue with this wire harness. Sure enough, when I unplugged it from the drawer, the connection was corroded with water inside. I tried cleaning out the contacts with some corrosion remover, and after a few days the lights came back on consistently as they should when the doors are open. But now the water still does not dispense, the ice is clumped in the ice machine, and the fridge does not seem to be cooling optimally. Could these still be symptoms of a faulty harness that needs replacing? Or do you think there may now be additionally faulty parts? Thanks in advance!
I bought this refrigerator thinking the evaporator fan assembly was malfunctioning, as I was told that the refrigerator was cooling no further than 44 degrees, but the freezer was fine. Had to remove all doors to enter the home. At this point, I noticed that the "select" touchpad was black, and two blue wires were severed on this wire harness. I temporarily repaired the wires and hooked up the fridge. I unplugged this connector from the drawer, and temporarily spliced the wires back together. Both the fridge and freezer will only cool to 15 degrees above the recommended settings. Tried plugging this harness back into the drawer, but interface panel is unresponsive. No change in refrigerator or freezer cooling. My question is: Would this harness and interface panel affect the cooling of the refrigerator and freezer? I don't want to replace the Evaporator fan motor and air damper control assembly if these also must be replaced. Also, just found that there are TWO Evaporator assemblies. Which fix should I try first? Thanks so much for the assistance.
Yes, it is a lot of work, and you really do need to do all of the steps! The connectors are buried inside and behind the drawer track which you cannot get out without removing the door and the hinges. Secondly, the replacement part is just as bad as the original. I have had to do this twice now in seven years. The wire quality just cannot stand up to the temperature and movement. If you slide the weaving on the harness you will find a broken wire. If you are good with wiring and a solder iron, you can fix versus replace. Lastly, this fridge is very heavy on electronics. That broken wire can cause unrelated issues such as the ice maker ceasing to function.
You have got to be kidding me. When a tech was here to replace a failed ICE maker he noticed the left hand Pantry Drawer we not aligned properly, so he removed the plastic drawer to get to the adjustment screws. While in there we both noticed the wire harness protective sheath was worn through exposing the wires inside. He used a zip tie to put a small loop in it. I’m not sure what it will do. Seems to be working but for how long. I took a photo. Guess I’ll call Lowes since I have an extended warranty. But it’s obviously a design defect. I hope they have some revised technical solution to prevent this from happening again. I wonder what this service call would cost out of warranty.
This video was exactly what I needed to fix my fridge. HUGE thanks to Repair Clinic for getting me the new wire harness ASAP and providing this great how-to video for installing it. It took about every tool in my toolbox and 2 hours to do it, but that's KitchenAids fault for making this critical cable so difficult to replace. Thanks again!
Thank you very much for this video Repair Clinic. We had a repair man come out and charged $150.00 just to say our fridge wasn't repairable. I watch the video a few time and thought, why not give it a try. Purchased the wire harness from Repair Clinic per the link supplied for $55.00 About an hour of time and the fridge is as good as new. Thanks again....
Holy crap! There's like...127 steps! (but it's done very well, thank you)
A HUGE Thank You to the Repair Clinic for this video. Very easy to follow and extremely clear instructions. repaired it myself and saved me a 400$ service call that wouldn't have happened for about 4 weeks. Thank you again
My lights went off along with no water or ice making/dispensing and the deli drawer cooling selection indicator was off. The wire harness replaced in this video was the culprit! Ordered the part from you and replaced it following this video. Thank you so much for the explicit step by step instructions to replace this wire harness! Fixed!
Thank you for this excellent instructional video. My wire harness also failed with the following strange symptoms: first "open door" icon was flashing and chiming with doors closed; then after pulling pantry door plug and powering off and on, the LDEs inside fridge would stay on: after more fiddling with plug and power, got the LEDs to stay off, even with door open. Confirm harness wires a problem by pulling on individual wires - 4 wires had snapped at the flex point. This is a common problem referenced on appliance repair sites, and KitchenAid should provide replacement harnesses for free. Poor engineering of wire harness is the root cause.
Replaced the deli drawer control panel but that did not fix my problems (door ajar signal sounding, no water dispensing, no ice making, no lights). Strangely, almost all fridge features returned after I disconnected the deli drawer control panel (only problem remaining is deli drawer light doesn't work). Can I deduce that the pantry drawer wiring harness needs to be replaced to restore the full functioning? Did the wiring fail because water is getting under the deli drawer control board? If so, how do I prevent this from happening again? What's the harm in just leaving the deli drawer control panel disconnected?
I don't see any need to remove the doors since the wire is full accessible from inside the fridge.
Thank you for this video! Your instructions were spot on. Thanks to you, this old computer nerd got the fridge fixed like a pro. And the best part is the old harness had a severed wire under the mesh, so it was obviously the fault. I agree with the earlier post about the harness being a bad design. To be honest, we never even use the temperature buttons that the harness connects to, so it could all just go away, IMO.
Slight issue...my lights are out and my ice and water dispensers stopped working at same time lights did.
Read and watched your great video...decided to go to left pantry meat drawer..wiggled the wire by where rail meets front of drawer. And my lights came on...but...the door open light is illuminated when all doors are fully shut.
Can you deduce from this if it's the wiring harness or is it one of the 3 control boards? Also , is there a way to disconnect something so the door open chime doesn't keep going off with this issue.
Thank you.
Can you come by and fix my fridge. I am stuck with this lemon and nobody wants to repair it. I have done two repairs on it myself already, and this one is a bit daunting. haha. Thank you for the video.
This was the perfect help, thank you!
Thank you. As soon as I saw the doors needed to come off for this harness I was like “welp no turning back now!”
Great help!! Thank you.
Wondering if you could advise me here... My fridge lights stopped turning on, and my water stopped dispensing at the same time. If the water paddle was pressed, water would randomly dispense minutes later instead of right when it was pressed. After reading up on the issue, it seemed like there could be a connection issue with this wire harness. Sure enough, when I unplugged it from the drawer, the connection was corroded with water inside. I tried cleaning out the contacts with some corrosion remover, and after a few days the lights came back on consistently as they should when the doors are open. But now the water still does not dispense, the ice is clumped in the ice machine, and the fridge does not seem to be cooling optimally. Could these still be symptoms of a faulty harness that needs replacing? Or do you think there may now be additionally faulty parts? Thanks in advance!
I bought this refrigerator thinking the evaporator fan assembly was malfunctioning, as I was told that the refrigerator was cooling no further than 44 degrees, but the freezer was fine. Had to remove all doors to enter the home. At this point, I noticed that the "select" touchpad was black, and two blue wires were severed on this wire harness. I temporarily repaired the wires and hooked up the fridge. I unplugged this connector from the drawer, and temporarily spliced the wires back together.
Both the fridge and freezer will only cool to 15 degrees above the recommended settings. Tried plugging this harness back into the drawer, but interface panel is unresponsive. No change in refrigerator or freezer cooling.
My question is: Would this harness and interface panel affect the cooling of the refrigerator and freezer? I don't want to replace the Evaporator fan motor and air damper control assembly if these also must be replaced. Also, just found that there are TWO Evaporator assemblies.
Which fix should I try first?
Thanks so much for the assistance.
Yes, it is a lot of work, and you really do need to do all of the steps! The connectors are buried inside and behind the drawer track which you cannot get out without removing the door and the hinges. Secondly, the replacement part is just as bad as the original. I have had to do this twice now in seven years. The wire quality just cannot stand up to the temperature and movement. If you slide the weaving on the harness you will find a broken wire. If you are good with wiring and a solder iron, you can fix versus replace. Lastly, this fridge is very heavy on electronics. That broken wire can cause unrelated issues such as the ice maker ceasing to function.
You have got to be kidding me. When a tech was here to replace a failed ICE maker he noticed the left hand Pantry Drawer we not aligned properly, so he removed the plastic drawer to get to the adjustment screws. While in there we both noticed the wire harness protective sheath was worn through exposing the wires inside. He used a zip tie to put a small loop in it. I’m not sure what it will do. Seems to be working but for how long. I took a photo. Guess I’ll call Lowes since I have an extended warranty. But it’s obviously a design defect. I hope they have some revised technical solution to prevent this from happening again. I wonder what this service call would cost out of warranty.
Worst fridge ever!