My kitchenaid 5 french door refrigerator was collecting water and ice under the 2 pullout drawers. The drain tube at back of fridge was totally clear, but no water was collecting in drain pan. I found that the fridge was not tilted back enough and was too level. Raised front pods up 1/2". I took a hairdryer to the vent behind the drawers until the ice melted and could see the water draining into the drain pan at the back of the fridge. It has worked perfectly. Hope this helps.
I can't say thanks enough for your super helpful comment! I watched the whole video and almost to follow the step to unscrew the evaporator cover. I thought maybe check what others say. Then I saw your comments. Tried immediately and the issue was fixed!!! Thanks so much!
I have same exact model. Icemaker quit. Icebox fan would not operate. Problem (oddly) caused by a defective circuit board in the left-hand refrigerated drawer. I disconnected the wire harness at the drawer connection (this is shown in the video when removing the LH drawer). The icebox fan began running, and the icemaker began producing ice every 47 minutes. I am not replacing the $300 circuit board. Fridge has been operating fine with the wire harness disconnected. Unable to change LH drawer temperature, but it maintains normal fridge temperature, just like the RH drawer. I can live with that.
Just an excellent video. Getting that bar out to remove the evaporator cover has been a nightmare for me for years, but I always managed to get it out without removing the center mullion. This shows the right way,. I little more time, yep...but doesn’t wear you out doing any repair behind the shelves. Thanks RC again.
Thank you so much for these videos. My refrigerator was doing a number of things, from a warm top drawer of the freezer and making awful fan noises. Turns out I have not been doing enough cleaning on the bottom coils. I have 2 dogs and the build up underneath becomes pretty heavy. So I thawed the fridge cleaned out the water in the catch bucket. Then I basically watched your video and took the refrigerator all apart, this might have been overkill because I thought I was going to have to replace some fans. Turns out just the deep cleaning and putting the fridge back together has it running like a new refrigerator. Once again Thank you.
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This was an amazing video. I was able to cure our problem with ice on the freezer coils all by myself. No need for a $300-400 repair bill. Thanks so much.
You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!
Thank you very much for this valuable video. It takes all of the guesswork out of the job for a technically oriented home repairman. I have one suggestion though. If you could somehow correlate the various components in each “hiding place” locations that you clearly explained. Great work! Thank you and great job with this professionally created video.
Very helpful video. We had ice forming in the bottom of the refrigerator. Cleared debris in the drain tube underneath the refrigerator that was was causing evaporator condensate water to spill out of the evaporator collection tray. The clog allowed ice to form in the drain beneath the refrigerator evaporator. We used this video to guide us in taking the whole refrigerator apart to access the drain entrance and melt the ice. Saved us $$$ on a maintenance call I'm sure.
Thank you for the video. My Whirlpool version of this refrigerator was making a humming noise louder than normal. I used your video to disassemble my bottom freezer section and located a mass of ice build up on the copper tubing from the condenser. Thawed the ice build up and back up and running like new.
This only sounds like half the story. I am going through that now, and replaced the evaporator blower motor. However, I now don't think that was the problem. The ice buildup came into the fan blades, causing the noise - I assumed it was because of bad bearing, till I removed it and saw what was going on. I just ordered a heater, I am guessing that is the cause of the ice buildup, but of course it could be something else. I did go into the diagnostic mode, #6, (for the heater) and it came up with error code 03, which I believe is a Short.
@@billcoleman8854did you figure out the solution to diagnostic step 6 with error code 03? I am showing the same and it is not listed on the tech sheet. There is water buildup under the 2 pantry drawers though.
You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!
No, and I found the wiring corroded on one of the door switches. Switch was good, but wire had corroded internally and lost continuity. Be careful, some idiot designed these things with 120 unfused volts to the door ajar switches. Huge fire hazard..
I needed to replace the 3 light combo in the water filter upper right compartment and it appeared it would be an easy job. However after I removed the filter screws, the compartment cover would not budge at all and I was unable to remove it. I stopped trying after a while for fear of breaking part of the plastic, since it felt so flimsy. It made me wonder why there were screws in it at all since it seemed pretty secure without them. 😄In the videos I've seen it looks so totally effortless. Is there some trick or tip for removing that compartment cover?
Great video thank you! How do you remove the freezer door gasket, mine seems stuck. When I try to get it out of the channel, it seems like it's pulling some insulation out of the door?
My ice maker quit, then the freezer wouldn't freeze. Warranty company replace 2 circuit boards, one ice maker, defrost connector, compressor and this took 4 months with no results. Finally a repair tech turned off the selector on one of the drawers than had deli, cheese etc. That fixed it.
@@8hfcvfwr the left drawer has a way to set temperature in drawer by selecting delivery, cheese, vegatables, soda. Evidentley it was bad and effects all controls on refrigerator. Once it was replaced everything has been fine. It was a simple fix but the technician that kept coming didn't know about it.
Thank you for your support. We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!
KRMF706ESS00 - just had the " ice maker " replaced after 25 months of use - Fridge just stopped making ice . Diagnostic ice maker test #56 was showing E2 = Motor lost position.. diagnostic test to rotate the ice maker motor counter clockwise and clockwise did not do anything ....Service tech replaced Ice maker and test #56 showed E0 = no errors -- 2 hrs later we had 6 ice cubes -- 24 hrs later we had full Bin.
Mine would do that because the ice would begin to melt (other issues this one has when it starts to fail on you) then refreeze, so the hopper couldn't feed this newly formed block of ice cubes and it was difficult to chop through for crushed. Mostly, ice wouldn't even feed down the Chute because it was frozen back into that block
Did you ever get your auger motor issue resolved? To be perfectly honest, if you can do half of the things they show in this video, then replacing your auger motor will be pretty intuitive. If the problem is that the dispenser "hums" and doesn't turn, then it's likely due to moisture getting into the auger motor housing and freezing. Personally, I think this is a design flaw, but it's something you can resolve, although you may have to do it more than once if you're unable to resolve the rot cause... As ice melts in the bucket, water can drip down around the auger shaft, where it can get into the auger motor, despite a fairly tight bushing on the motor. The water then re-freezes down inside that motor between the gears, and bam... it won't work... at least not until you break it free to thaw it out. The larger problem is that once water gets into that thing, it seems to have no way out. The auger is a sealed unit, so you can't open it. I've thought about drilling a tiny weep hole in the bottom of the case to allow water to drain out, but then I keep thinking they sealed it for a reason, so I'm reluctant to do that. If you remove the motor and shake it, you'll likely hear water sloshing around inside it. I put mine on top of a paper towel upside down for two or three days and most of the water did manage to work its way out. another option might be to place it in a warm, dry environment for several hours. There is a little rubber boot that fits on to the auger shaft that "should" deflect water away from it, but I don't think it's 100% effective. To remove / replace the auger motor, remove the ice bucket, then remove the four Philips screws surrounding the base plate that the bucket sat on. This will expose the cavity where the motor sits. It's held in by a couple of hex screws. Once you get those out, you'll need to disconnect the electrical connector and the motor just lifts out. Once you get the motor thawed out and the water out of it, it will probably work fine and won't need to be replaced, but it does amaze me that KA hasn't solved this problem. As I said, I'm thinking about drilling a small weep hole in the bottom of the motor housing to give water some place to go should it get inside there. At this point, I figure I can't do any worse than what's already happening, but I hate permanently altering something. It's a sealed unit so you don't really have a lot of options though. Good luck! (Oh and BTW... If yours DOESN'T have that little boot on it, you need to ask KA to send you one, or see if you can order it separate from the motor. I ended up buying a new motor for mine only to discover this is what the real problem was, and the new one case with the boot; the original one didn't have it. That thing cost me over $120, so I'd definitely try and get the little boot first. Both motors mechanically still work fine now, although I still have problems with moisture getting inside even the ne motor.
My interior lights and ice maker do not work. Everything else seems to be fine. Water dispenser works, cooling works, ice dispenser functions just no ice made. Door ajar light is on, but I have checked all the sensors. They all tested fine. I've checked sabbath mode. Not that. I've also tried resetting my breakers a few times with no help. No idea where to go now. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
@@nmpeter487 I had the main board replaced and that looks like it did the trick. I had an extended warranty so that wasn't an issue. I hope the help you good luck.
I have this same fridge and the door water dispenser is very loud compared to the older kitchen fridge that was replaced. Also the water comes out of of the dispenser tube and splattering fashion, not a smooth stream of water.
We purchased this product in June, 2016. We loved the design of this product and paid $3,400.00 back then which is now $3,900.00 today. Two weeks ago the dispenser, the icemaker and the interior lights stopped working. I spent days researching the problem and replaced one circuit board for $300.00 and did not remedy these issues. I checked the continuity of the door switches and they were good. I had no choice but to call an appliance repairman and he told me that he could try to fix it by replacing two more circuit boards for $900.00 but this was no guarantee this would fix the issue. He explained there may be a short in the interior wiring which is not repairable. He also explained that if the $900.00 fix did work the life of the product may only be another year of two. Very disappointed to have spent this amount of money only to have it work for 5 1/2 years. Will not recommend this product to anyone.
ours has been a lemon since new. it's now 3.5yrs old and has had the following replaced. front panel, the three control boards in the back replaced twice. upper ice maker boards replaced, and now it needs the main board again and there is no stock. So after a month of no fridge, Lowes is sending us a check for the purchase price because we bought the extended 5yr warranty... and the techs can't fix it. I don't normally buy extended warranties, but with all the electronics in this thing, and the cost of replacing just a single component.... I decide to buy one. it was money well spent. But it's sad that all new refrigerators have all these electronic boards in them that the manufactures (all brands) stop making parts for after they have been in production for a few years. Pay all this money and they only last 3yrs? our old Montgomery Wards Admiral Side by Side is still humming along (doing garage duty now) after 30yrs. only thing ever replaced is the ice maker every 10yrs. Not because it stops working, but that the teflon lining on the tray starts to flake off into the ice itself.
That means there was a power outage and you should be aware of the potential of spoiled food that refroze. It could also mean you have a really expensive controller board problem. My KA sometimes needs to be powered down for ten minutes and restarted to restore power to the ice maker and interior lights. Service contract useless.
This is the worst fridge I've ever had I'm on my 2nd one..... I have so much money into this fridge it crazy they gave me some money back for the last one and gave me a new 1 soon as the warranty is up it starts the same shit it's a long story..but anyway... I come home all the time to the ice maker melting and freezer losing temperature and eventually the fridge will lose temperature also..... I have to unplug it for like 5 minutes play with the codes on icemaker for the diagnostics and it usually works again for a few weeks then does it again....DO NOT BUT THIS POS
I don't know what idiot designed these units, but they are nutz. Why would anyone use unfused 120 volts on the door sensor switches? Short one out and watch it burst into flames.. seen it happen.
My kitchenaid 5 french door refrigerator was collecting water and ice under the 2 pullout drawers. The drain tube at back of fridge was totally clear, but no water was collecting in drain pan. I found that the fridge was not tilted back enough and was too level. Raised front pods up 1/2". I took a hairdryer to the vent behind the drawers until the ice melted and could see the water draining into the drain pan at the back of the fridge. It has worked perfectly. Hope this helps.
We had this same problem. Adjusted the front feet and problem solved.
I can't say thanks enough for your super helpful comment! I watched the whole video and almost to follow the step to unscrew the evaporator cover. I thought maybe check what others say. Then I saw your comments. Tried immediately and the issue was fixed!!! Thanks so much!
God bless you and your family, mine has been doing this and will look into this!
Thank you! Perfect instruction. Got the job done in about 45 mins (with kids running around)
I have same exact model. Icemaker quit. Icebox fan would not operate. Problem (oddly) caused by a defective circuit board in the left-hand refrigerated drawer. I disconnected the wire harness at the drawer connection (this is shown in the video when removing the LH drawer). The icebox fan began running, and the icemaker began producing ice every 47 minutes. I am not replacing the $300 circuit board. Fridge has been operating fine with the wire harness disconnected. Unable to change LH drawer temperature, but it maintains normal fridge temperature, just like the RH drawer. I can live with that.
Same here.
Just an excellent video. Getting that bar out to remove the evaporator cover has been a nightmare for me for years, but I always managed to get it out without removing the center mullion. This shows the right way,. I little more time, yep...but doesn’t wear you out doing any repair behind the shelves. Thanks RC again.
Thank you so much for these videos. My refrigerator was doing a number of things, from a warm top drawer of the freezer and making awful fan noises. Turns out I have not been doing enough cleaning on the bottom coils. I have 2 dogs and the build up underneath becomes pretty heavy. So I thawed the fridge cleaned out the water in the catch bucket. Then I basically watched your video and took the refrigerator all apart, this might have been overkill because I thought I was going to have to replace some fans. Turns out just the deep cleaning and putting the fridge back together has it running like a new refrigerator. Once again Thank you.
You're welcome!
We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
This is one of the most beautiful videos on youtube
Thank you SO MUCH for this video. It’s the only one in TH-cam that shows in detail what I needed to do!
This was an amazing video. I was able to cure our problem with ice on the freezer coils all by myself. No need for a $300-400 repair bill. Thanks so much.
You're welcome!
We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
Thank you very much for this valuable video. It takes all of the guesswork out of the job for a technically oriented home repairman. I have one suggestion though. If you could somehow correlate the various components in each “hiding place” locations that you clearly explained. Great work! Thank you and great job with this professionally created video.
Very helpful video. We had ice forming in the bottom of the refrigerator. Cleared debris in the drain tube underneath the refrigerator that was was causing evaporator condensate water to spill out of the evaporator collection tray. The clog allowed ice to form in the drain beneath the refrigerator evaporator. We used this video to guide us in taking the whole refrigerator apart to access the drain entrance and melt the ice. Saved us $$$ on a maintenance call I'm sure.
Did that cause the evaporator to ice over and stop cooling the fridge? I'm hoping its a simple fix with the drain like yours was.
Thank you for the video. My Whirlpool version of this refrigerator was making a humming noise louder than normal. I used your video to disassemble my bottom freezer section and located a mass of ice build up on the copper tubing from the condenser. Thawed the ice build up and back up and running like new.
This only sounds like half the story. I am going through that now, and replaced the evaporator blower motor. However, I now don't think that was the problem. The ice buildup came into the fan blades, causing the noise - I assumed it was because of bad bearing, till I removed it and saw what was going on. I just ordered a heater, I am guessing that is the cause of the ice buildup, but of course it could be something else. I did go into the diagnostic mode, #6, (for the heater) and it came up with error code 03, which I believe is a Short.
@@billcoleman8854did you figure out the solution to diagnostic step 6 with error code 03? I am showing the same and it is not listed on the tech sheet. There is water buildup under the 2 pantry drawers though.
Thanks for the well-done vid. But wouldn't you think after 830 views this would tell the design engineers something?
Great video but how do I clean or replace the drip tray at the bottom of the fridge
Excellent in all aspects
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Awesome video, love the step by step verbal instructions. Question - is there a way to permanently disable the door ajar chime?
No, and I found the wiring corroded on one of the door switches. Switch was good, but wire had corroded internally and lost continuity. Be careful, some idiot designed these things with 120 unfused volts to the door ajar switches. Huge fire hazard..
I needed to replace the 3 light combo in the water filter upper right compartment and it appeared it would be an easy job. However after I removed the filter screws, the compartment cover would not budge at all and I was unable to remove it. I stopped trying after a while for fear of breaking part of the plastic, since it felt so flimsy. It made me wonder why there were screws in it at all since it seemed pretty secure without them. 😄In the videos I've seen it looks so totally effortless. Is there some trick or tip for removing that compartment cover?
Thanks! This saved me a ton of time. Great video.
Absolutely fantastic video. More help than you know. Thank You Thank You Thank You!
Thanks! FYI for others - middle freezer drawer cam be removed after taking out just one of the stops.
Great video thank you! How do you remove the freezer door gasket, mine seems stuck. When I try to get it out of the channel, it seems like it's pulling some insulation out of the door?
Thank you I loved the video it is well explained
Great video! Thank you guys!!!
thanks so much. this was very helpful!
My ice maker quit, then the freezer wouldn't freeze. Warranty company replace 2 circuit boards, one ice maker, defrost connector, compressor and this took 4 months with no results. Finally a repair tech turned off the selector on one of the drawers than had deli, cheese etc. That fixed it.
Same problem. What is the selector?
Please explain
@@8hfcvfwr the left drawer has a way to set temperature in drawer by selecting delivery, cheese, vegatables, soda. Evidentley it was bad and effects all controls on refrigerator. Once it was replaced everything has been fine. It was a simple fix but the technician that kept coming didn't know about it.
@@carrolstack4625 simple but very pricey
Any idea how he did that. Might be worth a shot.
Thank you!! This video was extremely helpful!
Thank you, God bless you
Good video, thanks you
Thanks!
Thank you for your support.
We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
KRMF706ESS00 - just had the " ice maker " replaced after 25 months of use - Fridge just stopped making ice . Diagnostic ice maker test #56 was showing E2 = Motor lost position.. diagnostic test to rotate the ice maker motor counter clockwise and clockwise did not do anything ....Service tech replaced Ice maker and test #56 showed E0 = no errors -- 2 hrs later we had 6 ice cubes -- 24 hrs later we had full Bin.
I'd love to know how to access the diagnostic features
th-cam.com/video/96QNlKSic60/w-d-xo.html
Great video! I wish you would have included the ice bucket and auger motor. Mine is working sporadically and I suspect it is the motor. Thanks
Mine would do that because the ice would begin to melt (other issues this one has when it starts to fail on you) then refreeze, so the hopper couldn't feed this newly formed block of ice cubes and it was difficult to chop through for crushed.
Mostly, ice wouldn't even feed down the Chute because it was frozen back into that block
Did you ever get your auger motor issue resolved? To be perfectly honest, if you can do half of the things they show in this video, then replacing your auger motor will be pretty intuitive. If the problem is that the dispenser "hums" and doesn't turn, then it's likely due to moisture getting into the auger motor housing and freezing. Personally, I think this is a design flaw, but it's something you can resolve, although you may have to do it more than once if you're unable to resolve the rot cause...
As ice melts in the bucket, water can drip down around the auger shaft, where it can get into the auger motor, despite a fairly tight bushing on the motor. The water then re-freezes down inside that motor between the gears, and bam... it won't work... at least not until you break it free to thaw it out. The larger problem is that once water gets into that thing, it seems to have no way out. The auger is a sealed unit, so you can't open it. I've thought about drilling a tiny weep hole in the bottom of the case to allow water to drain out, but then I keep thinking they sealed it for a reason, so I'm reluctant to do that. If you remove the motor and shake it, you'll likely hear water sloshing around inside it. I put mine on top of a paper towel upside down for two or three days and most of the water did manage to work its way out. another option might be to place it in a warm, dry environment for several hours. There is a little rubber boot that fits on to the auger shaft that "should" deflect water away from it, but I don't think it's 100% effective.
To remove / replace the auger motor, remove the ice bucket, then remove the four Philips screws surrounding the base plate that the bucket sat on. This will expose the cavity where the motor sits. It's held in by a couple of hex screws. Once you get those out, you'll need to disconnect the electrical connector and the motor just lifts out. Once you get the motor thawed out and the water out of it, it will probably work fine and won't need to be replaced, but it does amaze me that KA hasn't solved this problem. As I said, I'm thinking about drilling a small weep hole in the bottom of the motor housing to give water some place to go should it get inside there. At this point, I figure I can't do any worse than what's already happening, but I hate permanently altering something. It's a sealed unit so you don't really have a lot of options though. Good luck!
(Oh and BTW... If yours DOESN'T have that little boot on it, you need to ask KA to send you one, or see if you can order it separate from the motor. I ended up buying a new motor for mine only to discover this is what the real problem was, and the new one case with the boot; the original one didn't have it. That thing cost me over $120, so I'd definitely try and get the little boot first. Both motors mechanically still work fine now, although I still have problems with moisture getting inside even the ne motor.
Wow this was sooo informational
Do you have a video on how to remove the drain pan? Mine has a bunch of gunk in it and is causing it to smell.
I’m having the same issue, seems like a pertinent part of assembly/disassembly
What kind of tool do you need to loosen the handles I couldn't see what it was and you didn't say
My interior lights and ice maker do not work. Everything else seems to be fine. Water dispenser works, cooling works, ice dispenser functions just no ice made.
Door ajar light is on, but I have checked all the sensors. They all tested fine.
I've checked sabbath mode. Not that.
I've also tried resetting my breakers a few times with no help.
No idea where to go now. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
How do I disassemble the left drawer selector panel?
How do you remove the ice maker itself?
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the entire thing quit cooling. what could cause that? they are so expensive and dont last
Can you tell me what does the error code P0 mean in the KitchenAid refrigerator?
I was able to recover my lights by removing power wait a few seconds and repower. I would try this first, a lot easier.
I see this is a common problem. I'd like KA to repalce my baortds, even though I'm out of warranty, obvious defect
@@nmpeter487 I had the main board replaced and that looks like it did the trick. I had an extended warranty so that wasn't an issue. I hope the help you good luck.
But how do you get the drip tray out? That thing gets gross 🤮
Thank you! So helpful!
I am trying to find out how to remove the ice storage bin from KRFC704FPS - it is not frozen but it will not release.
I want to know how to disassemble the ice dispenser panel on a Kitchenaid superba refrigerator KSSP36Q
how do you rempve glass above crisper
how do you fix condensation in your fridge pl help
condensation problem how you you fix that pl help
My fridge quit freezing, not making ice and stop dispensing water what could it be???
disassembling the freezer just to clean it has to be the dumbest design idea in history
Yes👍
I have this same fridge and the door water dispenser is very loud compared to the older kitchen fridge that was replaced. Also the water comes out of of the dispenser tube and splattering fashion, not a smooth stream of water.
How do I fixs my frigrater
Anyone know how to permanently shut off the ice maker?
Open left door, look on left side above ice bucket and there should be an OFF/ON switch.
how door i take bottom draws out
We purchased this product in June, 2016. We loved the design of this product and paid $3,400.00 back then which is now $3,900.00 today. Two weeks ago the dispenser, the icemaker and the interior lights stopped working. I spent days researching the problem and replaced one circuit board for $300.00 and did not remedy these issues. I checked the continuity of the door switches and they were good. I had no choice but to call an appliance repairman and he told me that he could try to fix it by replacing two more circuit boards for $900.00 but this was no guarantee this would fix the issue. He explained there may be a short in the interior wiring which is not repairable. He also explained that if the $900.00 fix did work the life of the product may only be another year of two. Very disappointed to have spent this amount of money only to have it work for 5 1/2 years. Will not recommend this product to anyone.
Exactly what I’m up against right now, going to start troubleshooting this weekend
I was able to recover my lights by removing power, wait a few seconds and add power. I would try this first, a lot easier.
No lights
No lights
@@brendalove3906 How long did you turn it off for?
@@salalbanese5537 at least 10-15 minutes. I put a smart plug in for my fridge so I can power it off from my phone
I just bought this fridge. I hope the didn't produce the video of this model out of necessity.
Unfortunately they did. Lots of problems
Absolutely the worst fridge ever made... you will have problems.... Sorry but welcome to the club
ours has been a lemon since new. it's now 3.5yrs old and has had the following replaced. front panel, the three control boards in the back replaced twice. upper ice maker boards replaced, and now it needs the main board again and there is no stock. So after a month of no fridge, Lowes is sending us a check for the purchase price because we bought the extended 5yr warranty... and the techs can't fix it. I don't normally buy extended warranties, but with all the electronics in this thing, and the cost of replacing just a single component.... I decide to buy one. it was money well spent. But it's sad that all new refrigerators have all these electronic boards in them that the manufactures (all brands) stop making parts for after they have been in production for a few years. Pay all this money and they only last 3yrs? our old Montgomery Wards Admiral Side by Side is still humming along (doing garage duty now) after 30yrs. only thing ever replaced is the ice maker every 10yrs. Not because it stops working, but that the teflon lining on the tray starts to flake off into the ice itself.
I’ve had this fridge break twice on me.
I’ve given up repairing it for at least 500$ each time.
Totally a waste of money for a very expensive fridge
Amen
I have a problem. The front panel give me Code PO someone can help me please???
That means there was a power outage and you should be aware of the potential of spoiled food that refroze. It could also mean you have a really expensive controller board problem. My KA sometimes needs to be powered down for ten minutes and restarted to restore power to the ice maker and interior lights. Service contract useless.
Mine did that when it began icing up, and the temp in the freezer came above 26. Had to keep pressing reset.
The back grill is made of cardboard lol.
This is the worst fridge I've ever had I'm on my 2nd one..... I have so much money into this fridge it crazy they gave me some money back for the last one and gave me a new 1 soon as the warranty is up it starts the same shit it's a long story..but anyway... I come home all the time to the ice maker melting and freezer losing temperature and eventually the fridge will lose temperature also..... I have to unplug it for like 5 minutes play with the codes on icemaker for the diagnostics and it usually works again for a few weeks then does it again....DO NOT BUT THIS POS
I don't know what idiot designed these units, but they are nutz. Why would anyone use unfused 120 volts on the door sensor switches? Short one out and watch it burst into flames.. seen it happen.