If you click "SHOW MORE" in the description above your be able to see Links to the Tools 🔧🔨🔧 I use. Also Clickable Chapters📋 📙 throughout the video and other Links 🎬 that may be of interest. I've had a few viewers request where they can buy the tools they see in some of my videos but it's not very clear that the "SHOW MORE" tab has a lot of information in that may be of interest. Admittedly the amazon links are associated with me and I would earn a small commission which helps towards keeping the channel funded.
Another great video. Good news that the timing is still aligned and no bent valves. If the engine is in a reparable state, I would be putting on a new timing belt just for piece of mind (made in Romania) would not instill confidence. Can't wait for the next installment.
Hi Neil and thank you. I think the belt is made by Schaeffler under the INA name. I just had a comment about the timing belt lol and I'm now going to be really lazy and copy and paste what I said. "I have to put costs ahead of everything at the moment due to lack of funds. Because of the shear number of things that need mending and it's yet to pass an MOT I am very reluctant to buy anything that doesn't absolutely require buying. I think I would replace the timing belt and apply the same tension it had before removal thereby I wouldn't be adding extra tension on a belt that's already been pre tensioned. The water pump was also changed 11,000 miles ago. If I get the car actually mended and it passes an MOT I would then consider spending money on it. But I actually drive less than 100 miles a month so a car isn't a high priority to me."
@@CoatsandGaiters Hello Mark. I can see your point on costs these days, just a simple oil change is a small fortune. I have just watched a video on TH-cam, and a so called pro mechanic filling an engine using 1 liter bottles of oil. Now that is a total farse,as they cost a lot more in single liter bottles. To do an oil change on my old Merc' would cost £144 in single bottles and £98 buying 2 x 4L and one single liter bottle. The world has gone mad.
@@neilhampson2843 I think the car has to prove it's worth to me first. Having a receipt for £500 in 2019 for that belt would wind me up if I changed it as it would mean that £500 only got the car moving for 11,000 miles. I am very quirky in this area as your probably finding out lol. I buy my oil in 20 litre lots from Exol on ebay and it's around £75 delivered so a garage must be getting it for £2 a litre I expect in the oil drums they would buy.
Awesome video !! That help me a lot 👍! My car has the same problem, the tensioner is broken. I will start the repair now at Christmas, my own Christmas gift to myself. 💥 💥I hope the damage is not big 💥💥
Thank you for the compliment. Just be aware that if the hydraulic lifters drain of oil you might have some trouble restarting the car as in my last episode. Keep me posted as to how easily the car started.
Yes, the engine is stuck, turns about 5 degrees and stuck. The car shut off in the middle of driving, and I drove into a ditch. I thought the timing chain tensioner broke, but now there is another problem. Everything looks OK in the engine. I'll remove the gearbox when I have time . Thanks for the reply
hello, love all your video's! very clear! i am wondering why there is so much different information about the Mini D engine regarding the timing belt or chain.... on many websites i find there is a chain. my engine code is : 9HZ (DV6TED4), on a mini clubman 2008 D. i thinck this is the same one as this one, so should i conclude i have a belt as well? how can it be so unclear? greetz K
Thank you for the compliment. I'm wondering is they did an 8 valve version of this engine and upgraded it to 16 by fitting another head on top of the old block. If that was the case it was probably a rubber belt and the cheapest way to convert to 16 was to use that belt to run one of the cams and simply use a small chain from that cam to the second cam, hence it has a belt and a small chain linking the 2 cams together.
aha, that indeed sounds very plausible. it seems to be a often used engine by many brands. weird it's so unclear. never found it explained like this before. wich one should than be changed at 240 000km? or just change both belt and cam? thnx for your reply!@@CoatsandGaiters
The chain between the two cams is a pretty major job as you may have seen in my videos. I think the main issue with the cam joining chain is the tensioner can break apart. Yours might be ok. Obviously if the rubber belt snaps its game over so I'd assume the rubber one to be the all important one. But bear in mind I'm not a mechanic. @@kevinvancappellen2854
Unless you don't want to spend too much on this car, you should not put back an old timing belt. I've heard that once you apply tension on it, if you remove that tension you have to change it. Same goes for water pump. The axle isn't made to have tension/no tension cycles
I totally agree with you but I have to put costs ahead of everything at the moment due to lack of funds. Because of the shear number of things that need mending and it's yet to pass an MOT I am very reluctant to buy anything that doesn't absolutely require buying. I think I would replace the timing belt and apply the same tension it had before removal thereby I wouldn't be adding extra tension on a belt that's already been pre tensioned. The water pump was also changed 11,000 miles ago. If I get the car actually mended and it passes an MOT I would then consider spending money on it. But I actually drive less than 100 miles a month so a car isn't a high priority to me.
@@L3xou97 I think the Peugeot 207cc that's sat in my barn which was running fine and then destroyed it's self and locked up on tick over has put me off spending money on these dodgy cars I keep buying. There could be an argument that had I changed the timing chain in that Peugeot it may not have destroyed its self but we won't go there haha
![[FINALE] 💸ที่แท้พ่อเป็นผู้ถือหุ้นบริษัทพันล้าน เขากลับใจตอนนี้ก็สายไปแล้ว🙇🏻♂️#ละครคุณธรรม #short](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/yFwgjTFISUI/mqdefault.jpg)
If you click "SHOW MORE" in the description above your be able to see Links to the Tools 🔧🔨🔧 I use. Also Clickable Chapters📋 📙 throughout the video and other Links 🎬 that may be of interest. I've had a few viewers request where they can buy the tools they see in some of my videos but it's not very clear that the "SHOW MORE" tab has a lot of information in that may be of interest. Admittedly the amazon links are associated with me and I would earn a small commission which helps towards keeping the channel funded.
Anazing video,as these engines been used by quite few manufactures.
I'm finding Proper atention to detail in your channel.
Thank you !
Thank you kindly. Hope they help you.
@@CoatsandGaiters Definitely !
Just great.Very calm and detailed.
Thank you
Another awesome video Mark. The detail to your work is second to none 👍
Thank you so much for that Michael.
Another great video Mark! One of the first since you started working on the r56 where no parts broke when taking them off :-)
Haha very true and nothing was rusty either.
Another great video. Good news that the timing is still aligned and no bent valves. If the engine is in a reparable state, I would be putting on a new timing belt just for piece of mind (made in Romania) would not instill confidence. Can't wait for the next installment.
Hi Neil and thank you. I think the belt is made by Schaeffler under the INA name. I just had a comment about the timing belt lol and I'm now going to be really lazy and copy and paste what I said. "I have to put costs ahead of everything at the moment due to lack of funds. Because of the shear number of things that need mending and it's yet to pass an MOT I am very reluctant to buy anything that doesn't absolutely require buying. I think I would replace the timing belt and apply the same tension it had before removal thereby I wouldn't be adding extra tension on a belt that's already been pre tensioned. The water pump was also changed 11,000 miles ago. If I get the car actually mended and it passes an MOT I would then consider spending money on it. But I actually drive less than 100 miles a month so a car isn't a high priority to me."
@@CoatsandGaiters Hello Mark. I can see your point on costs these days, just a simple oil change is a small fortune. I have just watched a video on TH-cam, and a so called pro mechanic filling an engine using 1 liter bottles of oil. Now that is a total farse,as they cost a lot more in single liter bottles. To do an oil change on my old Merc' would cost £144 in single bottles and £98 buying 2 x 4L and one single liter bottle. The world has gone mad.
@@neilhampson2843 I think the car has to prove it's worth to me first. Having a receipt for £500 in 2019 for that belt would wind me up if I changed it as it would mean that £500 only got the car moving for 11,000 miles. I am very quirky in this area as your probably finding out lol. I buy my oil in 20 litre lots from Exol on ebay and it's around £75 delivered so a garage must be getting it for £2 a litre I expect in the oil drums they would buy.
@@CoatsandGaitersHi again. Thank you for that tip I will have a look at that on Ebay.
@@neilhampson2843 ebay item number 350475829081 been using this for years
Is this the same engine as the DV5RD.. peugeot BHDi thanks
That's a later engine so I wouldn't know but normally they just adjust the older models and tweak them. Might be the same block.
is this same engine as in peugoeut 207 ,i think on 1.6 hdi 109hp
I believe so
Awesome video !! That help me a lot 👍! My car has the same problem, the tensioner is broken. I will start the repair now at Christmas, my own Christmas gift to myself. 💥 💥I hope the damage is not big 💥💥
Thank you for the compliment. Just be aware that if the hydraulic lifters drain of oil you might have some trouble restarting the car as in my last episode. Keep me posted as to how easily the car started.
Now I have opened the valve cover and the cam chain tensioner was fine. But the engine is still stuck. Would the dual mass clutch be broken??
@@Kalleppi when you say stuck do you mean the engine is locked up and won’t rotate.
Yes, the engine is stuck, turns about 5 degrees and stuck. The car shut off in the middle of driving, and I drove into a ditch. I thought the timing chain tensioner broke, but now there is another problem. Everything looks OK in the engine. I'll remove the gearbox when I have time . Thanks for the reply
@@Kalleppi wonder if the timing slipped out or the chain jumped and the pistons hit the valves.
hello, love all your video's! very clear! i am wondering why there is so much different information about the Mini D engine regarding the timing belt or chain.... on many websites i find there is a chain. my engine code is : 9HZ (DV6TED4), on a mini clubman 2008 D. i thinck this is the same one as this one, so should i conclude i have a belt as well? how can it be so unclear? greetz K
Thank you for the compliment. I'm wondering is they did an 8 valve version of this engine and upgraded it to 16 by fitting another head on top of the old block. If that was the case it was probably a rubber belt and the cheapest way to convert to 16 was to use that belt to run one of the cams and simply use a small chain from that cam to the second cam, hence it has a belt and a small chain linking the 2 cams together.
aha, that indeed sounds very plausible. it seems to be a often used engine by many brands. weird it's so unclear. never found it explained like this before. wich one should than be changed at 240 000km? or just change both belt and cam? thnx for your reply!@@CoatsandGaiters
The chain between the two cams is a pretty major job as you may have seen in my videos. I think the main issue with the cam joining chain is the tensioner can break apart. Yours might be ok. Obviously if the rubber belt snaps its game over so I'd assume the rubber one to be the all important one. But bear in mind I'm not a mechanic. @@kevinvancappellen2854
Unless you don't want to spend too much on this car, you should not put back an old timing belt.
I've heard that once you apply tension on it, if you remove that tension you have to change it.
Same goes for water pump. The axle isn't made to have tension/no tension cycles
I totally agree with you but I have to put costs ahead of everything at the moment due to lack of funds. Because of the shear number of things that need mending and it's yet to pass an MOT I am very reluctant to buy anything that doesn't absolutely require buying. I think I would replace the timing belt and apply the same tension it had before removal thereby I wouldn't be adding extra tension on a belt that's already been pre tensioned. The water pump was also changed 11,000 miles ago. If I get the car actually mended and it passes an MOT I would then consider spending money on it. But I actually drive less than 100 miles a month so a car isn't a high priority to me.
@@CoatsandGaiters Okay I understand. Pass the MOT before.
Maybe don't go in high RPM with this timing belt
@@L3xou97 I think the Peugeot 207cc that's sat in my barn which was running fine and then destroyed it's self and locked up on tick over has put me off spending money on these dodgy cars I keep buying. There could be an argument that had I changed the timing chain in that Peugeot it may not have destroyed its self but we won't go there haha