It might be good to mention that you close all the holes in the tub top and bottom to let the CO2 build up in the tub as it helps promote colonization. Once fully colonized and you are ready for the pinning and fruiting stage, you open the holes as air is needed for these stages. Keep up the good work!
actually building CO2 doesnt promote colonization but restric fructification so the mycelium can focus all the energy to colonize, so yes basicaly promote colonization still
@@Krystalbeing444 for fructification you need at least 70% humidity being 90-95% the best (With a decent FAE). For colonization close the lid of the monotub and tape the holes(almost 100% humidity) Condensation is formed when there is difference of temperature between the interior of the monotub and the exterior, in fact condensation is a bad thing, it can form little puddles wich increases contamination rates and it mean that the water from the air ("Humidity) is CONDENSING and thus lowering air humidity. Basically you need an hygrometer wich can read relative humidity inside the monotub and a "CO2-meter" to know how much CO2 is building inside and with that info adjusting your FAE techniques(Manual ventilation or dialing your monotub with polyfil) and misting if is needed.
This was a really good step-by-step video, I’ve been taking a break from growing mushrooms and been wanting to start up again so this was a perfect, “refresher” 4 me. 😆
Im glad i found this video ive mixed 1kg of grain spawn with 3kg of CVG substrate. I normally layer it but just mixed it this time. I was starting to doubt what I'd done until i watched your video. Would using manure based substrate be better and do you think thats why it colonised so quickly. Thanks for sharing your knowledge 🙏 🍄
If you are buying pre sterilized substrate from most sites it will already have good water content and shouldn’t need any water added. This does depend on where you are buying from though :)
It will take longer if the temps are too cold. I have had grows stall out from not keeping the temperature in the right range and consistent. Usually it’s actually beneficial for avoiding contamination but also increases colonization times. I like to keep my bins that are colonizing around 80f and when fruiting I prefer to turn it down to 70-75f
Thanks for tuning in! Vermiculite has quite a few uses for mushroom cultivation. It’s often mixed with coco coir and gypsum to make CVG. Which is a great substrate for growing many different species of mushrooms.
I use vermiculite all the time with growing mushrooms in “cakes” But I’m not sure if or how it’s used when going in tubs. I’m learning this now so I can yield more growth. Good luck to you. ❤
It took this one about a month to fully colonize, and it changes per species of mushroom you are growing. I also used LC so if you use a multi spore syringe you can expect an extra 1-2 weeks for full colonization on top of that. I will also make a video soon on getting a fully colonized grain bag. Thanks for watching!
Exactly what squiggy said. Sorry for getting back to you late. I always try to wait for it to be fully colonized; this will help with fighting contam. However if it has been over a few weeks and a certain spot isn’t colonizing it is very possibly that the area that’s not colonizing is just too dry to colonize. I’ve ran into this issue a few times with my grain bags made at home.
Idk why, but your videos make me more comfortable at what I'm doing. Everybody does it differently, and I am trying to stay with the "KISS" (keep it simple stupid) approach. While I have learned a ton from others on here, I like the simplicity of the methods you use.
Thank you for the positive feedback and I’m glad you found my videos helpful. I strive for very simple processes and I like to show others that they can also successfully grow mushrooms without needing all the extra equipment and an entire lab set up. However, in the future as I learn more I would love to have a whole lab and make videos that go more in depth on the science behind mushrooms and how they grow. 😁
First of all, why would I lie about that? 🤣 I spray / mist my tubs after the first flush but never on the first flush. There is plenty of moisture in your substrate that gets brought to the surface during colonization and makes the bin plenty humid. Once moving onto the second flush, I do start misting and fanning about 2-3 times a day.
@@robjones6741 yessir 100%, less lid lifting will result in less chance of contamination, higher humidity and more c02. Perfect for colonization. Once you get into fruiting it’s less of a big deal.
I zip lock bagged it and tried to use it within the month. Not too sure though but my first bin that contaminated ironically had that same substrate in it that I used a few weeks after I bagged it. I would recommend just using the whole bag as it’s probably more safe than trying to save it for later. Great question though thanks for the comment!
Guaranteed that you cannot! You can possibly get less side pins and maybe none for the first flush but your cake will always shrink and not stick to the sides throughout the life of your grow. Arguably packing down the sides and using a garbage bag like liner you can substantially reduce the amount of side pins but preventing them completely is almost impossible.
@@GoombaGrowsJust curious, but what’s your thoughts on not using liners? I’ve seen a lot of myco’s be very successful on not having, or minimizing side/bottom pins without liners. I’m kinda on the fence of if a liner is worth it due to having to try to sanitize something that’s got tons of cracks & crevices. According to the myco’s with more experience than I, they claim that keeping fruiting conditions best on the top will knock out most issues with side pinning. Granted they do make it a lot easier to get the cakes out if they’re gonna be pulled out.
@@CornPopsDood in my opinion I don’t see a problem with it at all. Especially when it comes to the liners I have been using (max yield bin liners) they really don’t seem to help me much other than when it comes to dunking it’s easier to pull the cake out and I also use the liners to hold the cake down. You don’t have to worry much about cleaning your liner though so long as you just cut out a garbage bag and use that. Since they come sterile from the factory no cleaning is necessary and it’s not too much waste to throw it away and use another bag for your next grow!
@@CornPopsDood the garbage bags will help with side pins more than the liners I use because they will actually stick to the walls and shrink with the cake as your flushes go on.
The short answer is yes. You have more nutrients for the mycelium to feed off of over a period of time. However I don’t believe this will increase the yields in each flush, rather it would make it so you get more flushes over all. This does raise the chances of getting contamination. In my opinion if you were to use say 5lbs of spawn and 10lbs of substrate I would make sure to use a bigger style of bin so that the cake isn’t so thick. I have had more success in terms of colonization times with thinner cakes and also less contamination as it colonizes quicker
@@GoombaGrows Thank you very much for this very thoughtful answer. I'm just getting started with this super-fun hobby and your vids are among my go-to tutorials.
@@patrickm1491 that puts a smile on my face :) I’m glad to hear it! Good luck on your mycology journey and if you have any questions in the near future don’t hesitate to reach out to me via dm on instagram. I try to get back to all messages as soon as possible!
Honestly a good question. I still find them useful when it comes to dunking the cake and keeping your bin clean. Makes it a lot easier to remove the cake when all is said and done.
At first, I was concerned because of the ratio you used. I didn't think your cake was going to be thick enough. I was floored to see it 100% colonized after days. Well done you! I just got those bins and can't wait to use them. Do you still like the bins? 😊
Before fruiting you want it to be as humid as possible without water pooling on the surface. Most of the time as long as your water content is in the right range you shouldn’t need to mist at all while colonizing. When you do transfer into fruiting conditions though your going to want around a 70-75% humidity level. You want very small water droplets on the surface but not too much water and not too much FAE or it will dry out. Best thing to do though is like 90 second mycology always says. Common sense will almost always prevail. If it seems to dry, mist it once or twice a day and if it seems to wet don’t be afraid to use a clean paper towel to dry up the surface water :)
Hello! Just curious what type of mushroom are you growing? I definitely plan on using the same technique you have used with 5 pounds substrate to 3 pound grain spawn, ..painters tape , etc. do you feel this would work with oyster mushrooms? Also can you tell me what type of light you’re using ?
I think the set up I’m using here would be sub par for oyster mushrooms only because they need a hefty amount of FAE. Theoretically you could possibly use a max yield bin with no lid when fruiting and it could work. But most of the time with oysters, bag or bucket tek works best! And for the light I’m using a spider farmer sf1000. Thanks for watching!
@@ToddPekarski-si6pl the substrate I used was a manure based substrate that I bought from north spore :) and if you would like to know the species grown in this exact video feel free to hit me up on instagram!
Gotcha.. could you give me a suggestion of any type species of mushroom that would grow effectively with that exact procedure you did ? I’ve tried blue oysters , but I think my cake was too big for monotub, I see your mixture lays far beneath the side holes which I’m guessing allows BetteR air exchange ..so any type species you can suggest for your procedure ? Looking to buy grain spawn already colonized .. of the culinary variety 😊
@@ToddPekarski-si6pl yes! Portobella and shaggy manes both have a nutty flavor and are sought after in a variety of different recipes. They are also able to be grown indoors with manure based substrate. Just make sure that whatever species you end up growing to do a little research on them as many different species require different temperatures for colonization and fruiting and different variations of soil such as wood lovers etc..
I see conflicting info on what to do with the holes during colonization (blocking/sealing vs open/ filter). I'm confused . My tub is a 'lock lid' with a foam gasket. Would you recommend putting filters on the holes instead of blocking/sealing them completely off with tape during colonizing? Thanks
I have a 2lb spawn bag. should I split it 1lb and 1lb into smaller tubs. or leave it as is in a 2lb spawn in a tub. And also What size of tub do should i use for 2 lb?
Good question, I would probably split it into two shoebox size bins and add 2lb of substrate to both. Or the other option would be putting it in one bin with 3-4lb of substrate. Size of the bin doesn’t matter too much as long as it fits!
Colonization times heavily vary depending on genetics, species and environment. Since it can be a variety of those things it would be hard to pinpoint why yours is going slow. I’d make sure that your temperatures are staying consistent to what is recommend for the species you are growing. I’ve had trouble in the past with inconsistent temperatures leading to slower colonization times
@@GoombaGrows Ah thanks! I think its temperature - we in spring but there are some hot days and cool nights. I'll just be patient as I am sure more will colonise in the next few days.
Hey mate another question. So I'm now at about 95% colonised!! The 5% substrate I can't really see more mycelium. Should I just give it a couple more days or go straight to FAE? The tub looks really good btw with pins forming. Also there is some condensation on the roof pooling, when I open to FAE should i dry and re-mist as I heard it can damage the mycelium if it drops down. Sorry for all the questions@@GoombaGrows
@@jeedphoenix if pins are forming definitely transfer to fruiting! The pins need air exchange and will benefit from it. The other 5% will most likely colonize during fruiting and if it doesn’t there is nothing to worry about!
The holes and the tape are kind of unnecessary steps if you just do Neglek Tek or the Dub Tub method. No need to perform extra steps when there are already so many steps involved, save time. I wonder why have so many holes when that could allow enemy spores inside? Leave one hole to vent the co2 to get less contam, and its all good.
Hey raiden, thanks for your comment! The max yield bin comes that way to allow for maximum FAE so you don’t need to fan everyday. This is exactly why I do cover all of those holes because if they are not covered that allows contamination to enter.
All depends on genetics and conditions 💪 the genetics in this video were very aggressive. I believe it also only took about 2-3 weeks to fully colonize the grain bag which is much quicker than some other species I’ve worked with
@@kazykamakaze131 try explaining that to someone who has never grown mushrooms before! You would probably say “it smells like a walk in the forest” however that smell you are referring to in the forest is more than likely mycelium!
@@GoombaGrows Moist is just humidity, the chamber is very high humidity(after it rained, a closed off wet basement), so when you open it, the smell you get is a combination of moisture, substrate and mushroom.
The sound is most definitely on the quiet side in this video, I have been working on getting the sound of my voice and background music to a good even level. But I most definitely can hear what I’m saying in this video. Try checking your volume settings?
Man I used mushrooms supplies. Straight trash. I’d never recommend, sad to see you using them. I tried growing with their kits and wasted money for a year straight. Now I use a non profit company for grow bags. I’d fuqs with you but not when you use a company I despise.
Sorry to hear that man! I’m not sponsored or anything like that but there was a deal going for the spawn bags so that’s why I used em. Personally I didn’t run into any trouble but I’m sorry to hear abt your experience with them.
Piece of advice before you start breaking up the substrate and the grain, clean the bags with alcohol, and do not do it with your hands do it with gloves because once you’re shaking them out into your tub, you’re handling them with clean gloves, and contaminating your hands with yeast😊
Use your money how you would like to. I wouldn’t critique your video or style of doing something because of my opinion on if you spent too much or too little on your equipment. As stated I spent the money I did because I’ve seen others experience success with similar setups, and you are probably right. Beginners will spend more on simplicity because when you are just starting you are not normally aware of all the different methods of growing. How easy is it to buy a 150$ starter kit that’s comes with a bin, spawn, and substrate then spend an extra 20$ on spores or liquid culture? Over going to multiple different stores in person to buy a bin, box cutter for the holes, micropore tape, a garden store for the substrate and grain then to go buy a pressure cooker to sterilize? Doesn’t seem so beginner does it. Just to end up having a janky looking bin. If you really want to save money. Head over to Microppose website and use my code GOOMBAGROWS for 10% off :)
@@PEneoark you are quite the bozo. You like your own comments, claim I said things I’ve never said, fail to be able to back up said claim with the time stamp in the video. You know the part where I said using a liner is optional and using one can assist in avoiding side pins? Absolutely never once did I say a liner is going to prevent side pins 🤣. Nothing will prevent side pins, they are just a part of growing mushrooms. Good luck getting far in life with your negativity.
Glad your into the mycology community but the video is very generic and there are too many like it that are better. U need to come up with something unique
I appreciate the feedback! Mycology is a new hobby for me and so is TH-cam so with time I will improve :) I plan on going into much more advanced mycology techniques but I need to start with the basics. Although it is a generic video it is just to showcase how I do it, as many people do it differently. Thanks again!
@@GoombaGrows yes don’t take my criticism as bad criticism it was meant to be good I hope you grow in mycology and stick with it. Try to find a road nobody else has taken. Like I’m making a 5x5 grow room out of pvc for under 50 dollars for a contaminate free zone in my room like a green house of sorts. Be different good luck I subbed
Well, after spawning to bulk I waited a little over 24 hours to add the pseudo casing layer. Then after I added that layer it was another 4 days that the top layer had fully colonized. So technically 5-6 days.
It might be good to mention that you close all the holes in the tub top and bottom to let the CO2 build up in the tub as it helps promote colonization. Once fully colonized and you are ready for the pinning and fruiting stage, you open the holes as air is needed for these stages. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for watching! And that is correct :) I’m editing a video on how to put your monotub into fruiting conditions tonight.
Definitely need fresh air exchange after colonization!!
Without fresh air exchange you get wet rot bacillus.
actually building CO2 doesnt promote colonization but restric fructification so the mycelium can focus all the energy to colonize, so yes basicaly promote colonization still
Do you know what the humidity should be during this process , my mono tub has no condensation at all help??
@@Krystalbeing444 for fructification you need at least 70% humidity being 90-95% the best (With a decent FAE). For colonization close the lid of the monotub and tape the holes(almost 100% humidity)
Condensation is formed when there is difference of temperature between the interior of the monotub and the exterior, in fact condensation is a bad thing, it can form little puddles wich increases contamination rates and it mean that the water from the air ("Humidity) is CONDENSING and thus lowering air humidity.
Basically you need an hygrometer wich can read relative humidity inside the monotub and a "CO2-meter" to know how much CO2 is building inside and with that info adjusting your FAE techniques(Manual ventilation or dialing your monotub with polyfil) and misting if is needed.
This was a really good step-by-step video, I’ve been taking a break from growing mushrooms and been wanting to start up again so this was a perfect, “refresher” 4 me. 😆
Glad you found value in this video! :)
i spray in the air with the 70% around the area and make sure AC or every fans are off and i use a air fliter to farther reduce chaces yk
Im glad i found this video ive mixed 1kg of grain spawn with 3kg of CVG substrate. I normally layer it but just mixed it this time. I was starting to doubt what I'd done until i watched your video. Would using manure based substrate be better and do you think thats why it colonised so quickly. Thanks for sharing your knowledge 🙏 🍄
REALLY GOOD VIDEO BRO. helped a lot! I just have one question, do you add any water to the substrate or is it fine the way it comes in the bag?
If you are buying pre sterilized substrate from most sites it will already have good water content and shouldn’t need any water added. This does depend on where you are buying from though :)
At what temperature should we have for colonization? My substitute hardly hits 70. Mostly 68 i assuming it may just take longer 😊
It will take longer if the temps are too cold. I have had grows stall out from not keeping the temperature in the right range and consistent. Usually it’s actually beneficial for avoiding contamination but also increases colonization times. I like to keep my bins that are colonizing around 80f and when fruiting I prefer to turn it down to 70-75f
@GoombaGrows cool thanks, maybe I'll throw the heated blanket under it, and just keep a close eye it has 6 settings sure I can dial
Man, I love your videos
Nice and simple. I got vermiculite in the grow kit. How can i use and is it necessary to use vermiculite.
Thanks for tuning in! Vermiculite has quite a few uses for mushroom cultivation. It’s often mixed with coco coir and gypsum to make CVG. Which is a great substrate for growing many different species of mushrooms.
I use vermiculite all the time with growing mushrooms in “cakes” But I’m not sure if or how it’s used when going in tubs. I’m learning this now so I can yield more growth. Good luck to you. ❤
Can you add a little vermiculite to the top to help trap moisture??
Yes you can!
How long did it take for the grain bag to be fully cloninized?
It took this one about a month to fully colonize, and it changes per species of mushroom you are growing. I also used LC so if you use a multi spore syringe you can expect an extra 1-2 weeks for full colonization on top of that. I will also make a video soon on getting a fully colonized grain bag. Thanks for watching!
I have grain looking just like this is it ready. Keep getting told let it turn completely white
Wait a few days after it’s all white in case the middle has anything not done, it’s good for immunity to fight contamination
Exactly what squiggy said. Sorry for getting back to you late. I always try to wait for it to be fully colonized; this will help with fighting contam. However if it has been over a few weeks and a certain spot isn’t colonizing it is very possibly that the area that’s not colonizing is just too dry to colonize. I’ve ran into this issue a few times with my grain bags made at home.
@@GoombaGrows if it doesn’t at all I’d fruit it or bulk it but try getting rid of the uncolonized part and cut out the part it’s been in contact with
Cheers just getting in to grow mushrooms
Cheers. You can get your growing materials from @benjidelics. He's on
Instagram 🤳
Idk why, but your videos make me more comfortable at what I'm doing. Everybody does it differently, and I am trying to stay with the "KISS" (keep it simple stupid) approach. While I have learned a ton from others on here, I like the simplicity of the methods you use.
Thank you for the positive feedback and I’m glad you found my videos helpful. I strive for very simple processes and I like to show others that they can also successfully grow mushrooms without needing all the extra equipment and an entire lab set up. However, in the future as I learn more I would love to have a whole lab and make videos that go more in depth on the science behind mushrooms and how they grow. 😁
I like to use 3lbs grain to 10lbs sub in my max yield, refill kit comes with 15lbs but I use the other 5 for dubtubs
Not a bad ratio at all! I was actually going to do the same with this one but since it was my first grow I was nervous about contamination.
Hello how big is this mono tub?
Be honest...did you spray any more moisture in there??
First of all, why would I lie about that? 🤣 I spray / mist my tubs after the first flush but never on the first flush. There is plenty of moisture in your substrate that gets brought to the surface during colonization and makes the bin plenty humid. Once moving onto the second flush, I do start misting and fanning about 2-3 times a day.
@@GoombaGrows thanks brotha
When you're waiting for your substrate to colonise should you mist, and if so, how often ?
I don’t recommend it, as long as your water content is in the right spot. No misting should be necessary when colonizing.
@GoombaGrows Excellent, I was worried about contamination. So less lid lifts is better. 👍🏼
@@robjones6741 yessir 100%, less lid lifting will result in less chance of contamination, higher humidity and more c02. Perfect for colonization. Once you get into fruiting it’s less of a big deal.
Thanks for the tutorial!
How did you save the rest of the substrate you didn’t use after breaking the bag open??
I zip lock bagged it and tried to use it within the month. Not too sure though but my first bin that contaminated ironically had that same substrate in it that I used a few weeks after I bagged it. I would recommend just using the whole bag as it’s probably more safe than trying to save it for later. Great question though thanks for the comment!
Dude really appreciate this vid. totally educational. :) thank you
Glad you found it helpful!!
if you pack the sides down semi firm, you can prevent side pins.
Guaranteed that you cannot! You can possibly get less side pins and maybe none for the first flush but your cake will always shrink and not stick to the sides throughout the life of your grow. Arguably packing down the sides and using a garbage bag like liner you can substantially reduce the amount of side pins but preventing them completely is almost impossible.
@@GoombaGrowsJust curious, but what’s your thoughts on not using liners? I’ve seen a lot of myco’s be very successful on not having, or minimizing side/bottom pins without liners. I’m kinda on the fence of if a liner is worth it due to having to try to sanitize something that’s got tons of cracks & crevices. According to the myco’s with more experience than I, they claim that keeping fruiting conditions best on the top will knock out most issues with side pinning. Granted they do make it a lot easier to get the cakes out if they’re gonna be pulled out.
@@CornPopsDood in my opinion I don’t see a problem with it at all. Especially when it comes to the liners I have been using (max yield bin liners) they really don’t seem to help me much other than when it comes to dunking it’s easier to pull the cake out and I also use the liners to hold the cake down. You don’t have to worry much about cleaning your liner though so long as you just cut out a garbage bag and use that. Since they come sterile from the factory no cleaning is necessary and it’s not too much waste to throw it away and use another bag for your next grow!
@@CornPopsDood the garbage bags will help with side pins more than the liners I use because they will actually stick to the walls and shrink with the cake as your flushes go on.
Not sure if anyone has asked but...if you use 10lbs of substrate would you get a bigger yield?
The short answer is yes. You have more nutrients for the mycelium to feed off of over a period of time. However I don’t believe this will increase the yields in each flush, rather it would make it so you get more flushes over all. This does raise the chances of getting contamination. In my opinion if you were to use say 5lbs of spawn and 10lbs of substrate I would make sure to use a bigger style of bin so that the cake isn’t so thick. I have had more success in terms of colonization times with thinner cakes and also less contamination as it colonizes quicker
@@GoombaGrows Thank you very much for this very thoughtful answer. I'm just getting started with this super-fun hobby and your vids are among my go-to tutorials.
@@patrickm1491 that puts a smile on my face :) I’m glad to hear it! Good luck on your mycology journey and if you have any questions in the near future don’t hesitate to reach out to me via dm on instagram. I try to get back to all messages as soon as possible!
The pre made liners dont make since to me they dont shrink with the cake why even have it?
Honestly a good question. I still find them useful when it comes to dunking the cake and keeping your bin clean. Makes it a lot easier to remove the cake when all is said and done.
How long does it take to see pns forming?
It took this batch exactly 2 weeks. Depends on species and genetics though!
At first, I was concerned because of the ratio you used. I didn't think your cake was going to be thick enough. I was floored to see it 100% colonized after days. Well done you! I just got those bins and can't wait to use them. Do you still like the bins? 😊
Thank you! And yes I love the max yield bins. I just picked up a second bin recently and it probably won’t be my last :)
@@GoombaGrows I got 4. One for each different strain that are suppose to be awesome! 😂😂
@@kitc1031 go big or go home i guess haha good luck on those 4 bins!! :) 🍄
No way that was just 4 days later
Awesome vid. thnx
Also what type of size tub qt is that monotub you are using?
Approximately 20 quarts I believe. It’s advertised to hold 20lbs of substrate and 10lbs of grain.
What about 2 pounds spawn? How much substrate would I use then? Using 2 16qt bins
Most of the time the bags of substrate your going to find will be 5 pounds. I would use one 5 pound bag with your 2 pounds of grain spawn.
@@GoombaGrows thank you!
What should the humidity be during this stage before fruiting ?
Before fruiting you want it to be as humid as possible without water pooling on the surface. Most of the time as long as your water content is in the right range you shouldn’t need to mist at all while colonizing. When you do transfer into fruiting conditions though your going to want around a 70-75% humidity level. You want very small water droplets on the surface but not too much water and not too much FAE or it will dry out. Best thing to do though is like 90 second mycology always says. Common sense will almost always prevail. If it seems to dry, mist it once or twice a day and if it seems to wet don’t be afraid to use a clean paper towel to dry up the surface water :)
Hello! Just curious what type of mushroom are you growing? I definitely plan on using the same technique you have used with 5 pounds substrate to 3 pound grain spawn, ..painters tape , etc. do you feel this would work with oyster mushrooms? Also can you tell me what type of light you’re using ?
I think the set up I’m using here would be sub par for oyster mushrooms only because they need a hefty amount of FAE. Theoretically you could possibly use a max yield bin with no lid when fruiting and it could work. But most of the time with oysters, bag or bucket tek works best! And for the light I’m using a spider farmer sf1000. Thanks for watching!
Ok great that’s for the info .. can you tell me what type of mushrooms grow well in the procedure you showed .. and what type of substrate you used ?
@@ToddPekarski-si6pl the substrate I used was a manure based substrate that I bought from north spore :) and if you would like to know the species grown in this exact video feel free to hit me up on instagram!
Gotcha.. could you give me a suggestion of any type species of mushroom that would grow effectively with that exact procedure you did ? I’ve tried blue oysters , but I think my cake was too big for monotub, I see your mixture lays far beneath the side holes which I’m guessing allows BetteR air exchange ..so any type species you can suggest for your procedure ? Looking to buy grain spawn already colonized .. of the culinary variety 😊
@@ToddPekarski-si6pl yes! Portobella and shaggy manes both have a nutty flavor and are sought after in a variety of different recipes. They are also able to be grown indoors with manure based substrate. Just make sure that whatever species you end up growing to do a little research on them as many different species require different temperatures for colonization and fruiting and different variations of soil such as wood lovers etc..
I see conflicting info on what to do with the holes during colonization (blocking/sealing vs open/ filter). I'm confused . My tub is a 'lock lid' with a foam gasket. Would you recommend putting filters on the holes instead of blocking/sealing them completely off with tape during colonizing? Thanks
I recommend completely sealing the bin when colonizing. Colonization can benefit from high c02 levels and high humidity
use mircopore tape on both steps. its to allow gas exchange ( not mandatory but its a little redundant).
You do not want micropore tape for both steps as during colonization you want high humidity and high c02 levels. Micropore tape allows for FAE
4 days later and the monoTub is completely colonized.
Came for the Tek, stayed for the royalty free dingeling
Thanks for getting me straight on the 5lb to 3lb mycelium to the substrate,
Hi you said something about great Genetics I really need some good genetics. Keep getting small fruits an small yields
Head over to my instagram and I can help ya out. I don’t sell any myself but I got some places I can recommend!
I have a 2lb spawn bag. should I split it 1lb and 1lb into smaller tubs. or leave it as is in a 2lb spawn in a tub. And also What size of tub do should i use for 2 lb?
Good question, I would probably split it into two shoebox size bins and add 2lb of substrate to both. Or the other option would be putting it in one bin with 3-4lb of substrate. Size of the bin doesn’t matter too much as long as it fits!
@@GoombaGrows thanks g
jw do u sell ur shrooms? or is it purely personal?
Purely personal. If you would like more information on why feel free to head over to the instagram and shoot me a message :)
I Layered my spawn and bulk 🤷🏽♂️ thanks for the info!
Of course! And thank you for your comment :) everyone has there own method and layering should work just fine!
I fold the end of my type in on it's self to make it easier to grab with glove's
woodsy smell yummm!!
Cool stuff 😊
Hey man, Its been 7 days for me and only seeing a real little amount of white on top of my substrate, is that normal?You had heaps after 4 days!
Colonization times heavily vary depending on genetics, species and environment. Since it can be a variety of those things it would be hard to pinpoint why yours is going slow. I’d make sure that your temperatures are staying consistent to what is recommend for the species you are growing. I’ve had trouble in the past with inconsistent temperatures leading to slower colonization times
@@GoombaGrows Ah thanks! I think its temperature - we in spring but there are some hot days and cool nights. I'll just be patient as I am sure more will colonise in the next few days.
@@jeedphoenix yessir all about patience! If your having trouble keeping temperature stable you can try a heating mat :)
Hey mate another question. So I'm now at about 95% colonised!! The 5% substrate I can't really see more mycelium. Should I just give it a couple more days or go straight to FAE? The tub looks really good btw with pins forming. Also there is some condensation on the roof pooling, when I open to FAE should i dry and re-mist as I heard it can damage the mycelium if it drops down. Sorry for all the questions@@GoombaGrows
@@jeedphoenix if pins are forming definitely transfer to fruiting! The pins need air exchange and will benefit from it. The other 5% will most likely colonize during fruiting and if it doesn’t there is nothing to worry about!
It smells kind of like some packaging tape I feel. Def weird and smells good
Do you happen to mist after spawning?
As long as your substrate is at field capacity that your spawning to bulk with. Misting shouldn’t be necessary until fruiting conditions :)!
awesome video!
The holes and the tape are kind of unnecessary steps if you just do Neglek Tek or the Dub Tub method.
No need to perform extra steps when there are already so many steps involved, save time.
I wonder why have so many holes when that could allow enemy spores inside? Leave one hole to vent the co2 to get less contam, and its all good.
Hey raiden, thanks for your comment! The max yield bin comes that way to allow for maximum FAE so you don’t need to fan everyday. This is exactly why I do cover all of those holes because if they are not covered that allows contamination to enter.
4 days to that? unreal I know someone who has a tub that after 15 days is no where near that covered.
All depends on genetics and conditions 💪 the genetics in this video were very aggressive. I believe it also only took about 2-3 weeks to fully colonize the grain bag which is much quicker than some other species I’ve worked with
I always thought it smelled like mushrooms
You didn't sanitize either one of your bags before opening them. The field capacity on your substrate looks awfully dry.
It smells like earth dude chill :)
Yeah It totally does smell like earth but since mars and Jupiter smell almost the same I just explained it the best I could!
Homie couldn’t bother to remove the drip. Dragging the gold all through shit.
On god I let my shit hang
3lbs of spawn and 5lbs of sub is definitely not 1:1
haha 💯 you don't have to be a maths teacher to know that
Holy shit your right! My god, how could I be so silly. The word around is totally not anywhere near there either.
The smell is not unexplainable. It's earthy, moist and mildly mouldy, with the smell of your substrate.
@@kazykamakaze131 try explaining that to someone who has never grown mushrooms before! You would probably say “it smells like a walk in the forest” however that smell you are referring to in the forest is more than likely mycelium!
@@kazykamakaze131 I’d also love to know what moist smells like
@@GoombaGrows I'd say a dark part of the forest after it rained.
@@GoombaGrows Moist is just humidity, the chamber is very high humidity(after it rained, a closed off wet basement), so when you open it, the smell you get is a combination of moisture, substrate and mushroom.
I cant hear you.
The sound is most definitely on the quiet side in this video, I have been working on getting the sound of my voice and background music to a good even level. But I most definitely can hear what I’m saying in this video. Try checking your volume settings?
Man I used mushrooms supplies. Straight trash. I’d never recommend, sad to see you using them. I tried growing with their kits and wasted money for a year straight. Now I use a non profit company for grow bags. I’d fuqs with you but not when you use a company I despise.
Sorry to hear that man! I’m not sponsored or anything like that but there was a deal going for the spawn bags so that’s why I used em. Personally I didn’t run into any trouble but I’m sorry to hear abt your experience with them.
3lbs of grains and 5lbs of substance, isn't 1/1 ratio lol
Go ahead and put the time slot of where I said it’s exactly a 1:1 ratio please. Thanks so much!
Piece of advice before you start breaking up the substrate and the grain, clean the bags with alcohol, and do not do it with your hands do it with gloves because once you’re shaking them out into your tub, you’re handling them with clean gloves, and contaminating your hands with yeast😊
You spent way too much on that bin a 15$ tote work exactly the same way. Beginners love wasting money
Use your money how you would like to. I wouldn’t critique your video or style of doing something because of my opinion on if you spent too much or too little on your equipment. As stated I spent the money I did because I’ve seen others experience success with similar setups, and you are probably right. Beginners will spend more on simplicity because when you are just starting you are not normally aware of all the different methods of growing. How easy is it to buy a 150$ starter kit that’s comes with a bin, spawn, and substrate then spend an extra 20$ on spores or liquid culture? Over going to multiple different stores in person to buy a bin, box cutter for the holes, micropore tape, a garden store for the substrate and grain then to go buy a pressure cooker to sterilize? Doesn’t seem so beginner does it. Just to end up having a janky looking bin. If you really want to save money. Head over to Microppose website and use my code GOOMBAGROWS for 10% off :)
A lot of very important things were skipped in this video.
Liners don't prevent side pins. Lol
Leave the part in the video where I said that please thank you
@@GoombaGrows cool. You figure it out. You said it lol.
Sounds like you’re an idiot. I’m sorry you ended up that way.
@@GoombaGrows you're special dude. You know when you said that liners prevent side pins. Fr fr no cap skeet skeet fun. Enjoy your pre made mono's.
@@PEneoark you are quite the bozo. You like your own comments, claim I said things I’ve never said, fail to be able to back up said claim with the time stamp in the video. You know the part where I said using a liner is optional and using one can assist in avoiding side pins? Absolutely never once did I say a liner is going to prevent side pins 🤣. Nothing will prevent side pins, they are just a part of growing mushrooms. Good luck getting far in life with your negativity.
Glad your into the mycology community but the video is very generic and there are too many like it that are better. U need to come up with something unique
I appreciate the feedback! Mycology is a new hobby for me and so is TH-cam so with time I will improve :) I plan on going into much more advanced mycology techniques but I need to start with the basics. Although it is a generic video it is just to showcase how I do it, as many people do it differently. Thanks again!
@@GoombaGrows yes don’t take my criticism as bad criticism it was meant to be good I hope you grow in mycology and stick with it. Try to find a road nobody else has taken. Like I’m making a 5x5 grow room out of pvc for under 50 dollars for a contaminate free zone in my room like a green house of sorts. Be different good luck I subbed
@@bqoutdoors2334All feedback is good feedback :) thanks again for watching ❤️🍄
@@bqoutdoors2334 how did the pvc frame green house work out? I had the same idea to help with contam. Thanks for your time.
@@AC-yi3qb it cam out awesome 4 tubs moved to it with all my lab stuff
No way that was just 4 days later. I know this isn't possible.
Well, after spawning to bulk I waited a little over 24 hours to add the pseudo casing layer. Then after I added that layer it was another 4 days that the top layer had fully colonized. So technically 5-6 days.