Hey maybe i missed it but how do i know if its tdc on exhaust or intake? I have the heads off and the number one piston is raised up and crank pulley timing mark is at the 0 closest to the tdc letters. Do the rod lifter positions matter? I just want to make sure its tdc how its supposed to be. Can't find any other videos explaining it and i dont recall hearing u explain it cuz it was already off
I'm at this point with block on a stand. Old compression ring had .035" gap and 160psi no cylinder wear. The rering kit top ring was .028" gap. Ford & Haynes manual call for .015" to .023" ring gap. What would you do?
Here's my issue with the ring gap, according to my shop software Prodemand Mitchell, the ring gap calls for .010"-.020" for the compression rings on my 92. But do remember that old rings may have worn down to get the .035" gap, and they might have originally been .028" or whatever the original size was. Are you doing an oversize ring kit or is it factory size?
@@backyardmechanics5170 Thank you soo much for reply...I can't get anyone to comment on this in several forums. I'm simply refreshing the engine 101k miles wifes daily driver due to the heads cracked and sludged oil finding little wear even at bearings. Yes, I just yanked the engine wanting to also fix oil seal leaks. With the original big gap .035" the cylinder still had 160psi 170psi with an oil squirt during test. The ring is the same width as the new ring. The bores all measured to be very close to perfect and stone honed great. I did buy a rering kit STD size and this new ring had .028" gap. Is this a mfr defect I wondered? THEN...I ordered Hastings .010" over and this ring had almost zero gap. These can be filed to fit spec (maybe .018") BUTT I'm still concerned why there is so much indifference. Please give me your opinion.
From what I have seen the factory style replacements always have a slight indifference to them. You don't want to have a zero gap because as the motor warms up the gap is going to close up onto itself. I went with std rings due to the quick availability at the time and my gap was about .050, however, I am not really to worried about this motor at the moment. This truck is my beater truck. My 7.3l was done properly.
@@backyardmechanics5170 I understand heat and ring gap needed. It just confuses me why there are so many indifference's in spec. I can't afford for this rebuild to fail and need to get it right. I'm chancing either way maybe less using the kit rings with the .028" gap OR filing the .010" over rings to fit within spec goal to be .018". Tell me...do you think there is any chance of the gap closing .018" being a regular ole wife driven go to store for my sandwich fix'ns...lol?
Did your rotating assembly become hard to turn after installing the new rings(with the heads off). I tore my 3.0 down about a year ago and it smokes really bad after doing the work. The only issue I encountered when doing the work was a tight ring gap, which I ground down so it would be right around 10 thousandth A lot of the other cylinders read in the 12-15 thousandth. But there were a few that I found I needed to grind.
Bought a 92 thinking “this will be fun” and then I find your channel and it’s literally a step by fucking step guide. Dude you’re a legend
Thanks I appreciate it 🙏
Vulcan power!
Damm great video
Thanks 😊
Did you do measurements on your engine before you built it? Like oil clearances?
Hey maybe i missed it but how do i know if its tdc on exhaust or intake? I have the heads off and the number one piston is raised up and crank pulley timing mark is at the 0 closest to the tdc letters. Do the rod lifter positions matter? I just want to make sure its tdc how its supposed to be. Can't find any other videos explaining it and i dont recall hearing u explain it cuz it was already off
Do you “Rock” 1 and torque 5…etc.
Where do you think I can find me a 3.0 engine manifold
I'm having some real problems
I'm at this point with block on a stand. Old compression ring had .035" gap and 160psi no cylinder wear. The rering kit top ring was .028" gap. Ford & Haynes manual call for .015" to .023" ring gap. What would you do?
Here's my issue with the ring gap, according to my shop software Prodemand Mitchell, the ring gap calls for .010"-.020" for the compression rings on my 92. But do remember that old rings may have worn down to get the .035" gap, and they might have originally been .028" or whatever the original size was. Are you doing an oversize ring kit or is it factory size?
@@backyardmechanics5170 Thank you soo much for reply...I can't get anyone to comment on this in several forums. I'm simply refreshing the engine 101k miles wifes daily driver due to the heads cracked and sludged oil finding little wear even at bearings. Yes, I just yanked the engine wanting to also fix oil seal leaks. With the original big gap .035" the cylinder still had 160psi 170psi with an oil squirt during test. The ring is the same width as the new ring. The bores all measured to be very close to perfect and stone honed great. I did buy a rering kit STD size and this new ring had .028" gap. Is this a mfr defect I wondered? THEN...I ordered Hastings .010" over and this ring had almost zero gap. These can be filed to fit spec (maybe .018") BUTT I'm still concerned why there is so much indifference. Please give me your opinion.
From what I have seen the factory style replacements always have a slight indifference to them. You don't want to have a zero gap because as the motor warms up the gap is going to close up onto itself. I went with std rings due to the quick availability at the time and my gap was about .050, however, I am not really to worried about this motor at the moment. This truck is my beater truck. My 7.3l was done properly.
@@backyardmechanics5170 I understand heat and ring gap needed. It just confuses me why there are so many indifference's in spec. I can't afford for this rebuild to fail and need to get it right. I'm chancing either way maybe less using the kit rings with the .028" gap OR filing the .010" over rings to fit within spec goal to be .018". Tell me...do you think there is any chance of the gap closing .018" being a regular ole wife driven go to store for my sandwich fix'ns...lol?
I'll be honest without knowing any other measurements piston diameter, cylinder wall diameter etc I couldn't make that call.
Did your rotating assembly become hard to turn after installing the new rings(with the heads off). I tore my 3.0 down about a year ago and it smokes really bad after doing the work. The only issue I encountered when doing the work was a tight ring gap, which I ground down so it would be right around 10 thousandth A lot of the other cylinders read in the 12-15 thousandth. But there were a few that I found I needed to grind.
No, my rotating assembly did not become hard due to the assembly lube that I had used.
What went wrong here?
Is this the same block as the Taurus 3.0L Vulcan engine?
Yes they just changed the way the motor mounts are attached, exhaust etc.
Si, si es el mismo el de la Ranger, taurus, ghia y topaz v6 todos los que lleven el vulcan es lo mismo
The disorganization is stressing me out.