I love how detailed you are about each of your modifications. Informing us beforehand that you already have other parts that could also change performance. As someone who is just getting into trucks, that helps me a lot. Very descriptive about what needs to be done and how to do it, keep it up!
FanFknTastic!! Best video ive seen on the entire TH-cam platform for any vehicle modification or tutorial in general. Common sense, logic, explanation clear as day, completely followed you every step of the way. Im dropping a complete reman (powertorque) 3.0 in my 04 today. I KNEW those damn injectors had to do with the 171 & 173s lean and misfires and not a vacuum leak. You just un-fkd the engineered fckry from da fackry!!!! Good on ya Bro!! May karmic blessings make it rain whatever it is you want to rain down on ya! Peace...
I did something sort of similar. Kept the torque biased aluminum manifold on mine, deleted heater hoses, ported the hell out of the manifolds and really polished the exhaust side of heads. BBK 56mm TB halfshafted, and cut the MAF post. So I kept EGR and it still uses the 58psi flex pump and injectors. I think the ASP crank pulley is a decent gain, and the shift kit helps the auto a TON. Also did headers back. I'm eager to do the electric fan, don't have that yet. Nice vid, saw you on the sub too. Unfortunately mine is 4200-4400 lbs and high mileage, but it's a world of difference over how it was
We are building a Daily Driven Landspeed 93 Ford Ranger Splash with the Vulcan 3.0 on our channel. Since it's a 93 we are working with speed density EFI. The plan is to use later pistons for more compression, do some flowbench testing on the cylinder heads with different valve jobs, fit LS beehive valve springs and 1.8 ratio rockers. Other than that the EFan like you have done along with headers and exhaust. Have you put your truck on a Dyno or just done the butt Dyno or maybe dragy?
Only butt Dyno but I have raced my 2011 with the 4.0L and 3.55 gears and this 3.0 is faster. Currently the truck has a 5.0L in it that I haven't done the first drive of yet. Planning on doing a video soon.
Thanks for the reply! We are going to Dyno after the changes, truck was DOA, and in between anything after the baseline. We probably should have just put the 5.0l in the truck but that class where we race is super competitive. Not to mention this is the first truck high school daily 98% of the time. We look forward to seeing your new setup!
@@LateStartRacingTeam if you're going all the way, I made custom headers for my 5.0l, or you could buy the adapter plates from tom morana racing to mount 3.8 mustang tubular headers. Huge improvement
I have seen Tom's stuff. That's where I got the roller rockers idea. I have been looking at inexpensive header cross over combos for a 4.0l Ranger as those are still common. We figured I could modify those instead of starting from scratch. Maybe save some time but likely not, hahaha
Vulcan is really good. I believe he held himself back in a way though because he seen through things, understood enough to know it'd work and improve, but like he seemed to lack some kind of confidence. Like very low spoken. But his results are actually proven. I've done a couple of the same mods, headers, full cold air with the filter aimed up at a functional hood scoop, 8.8 spark wires and 50k volt coil and free flow cat delete exhaust. I'm yet to do the clutch fan delete an replace with electric and do the MAF mod. I also want to do the 1.7 rockers and better fuel rails from tom Morena. I have the JBA headers. Summit sells the aftermarket replacement parts to make the stock 7.5 as tough as an 8.8 with solid Richmond parts all the way. But honestly I'd like to see someone actually bust the bank and get the full tom Morena stroker kit, stage 3 heads, cam, roller rockers, supercharger plate, m112 supercharger and whatever else I'm missing to see what a maxed out 3.0 can actually do
@@codymoser65 how did I plumb it? Meaning how did I incorporate it into the system. You can either use a Ford fuel rail to an fitting, but what I did was swap my fuel filter from the return style to a non return k&n filter then ran the line back to the pump
Nice video. Breaks your modifications down logically and easy to follow. What size injectors did you use? Or, what were the injectors out of? Also, did changing the MAF and injectors change MPG noticably? What about low end torque? Thanks!
19lb injectors running at 60-70 variable fuel pressure. They came out of a flex fuel 3.0L ranger. Mpg increased but as I alluded to in the video I didn't want to make any claims since I've done other mods which gives me better mpg. But yes, in my experience the mpg from when I got the truck and drove it normally, to now and I drive it into the ground- is much better. The low end torque is not only better, but mostly the revs come on faster. The ranger stock is a dog. I mash the pedal, the 245 tires spin. Not huge for different cars but for a ranger that's something
One more question: On the air intake hose where did you place your air intake temp sensor? Mine goes in the intake tube but it doesn't look like the 4.0 intake hose has a space for it.@@Alahdeen_
2001 and onward 3.0L do not have air intake temp sensors. They're combined into the mass airflow sensor. If you need to install one, the spot I plugged with a wine cork all the way on the right near the throttle body would would well, @3:03 as long as you affix it strongly and extend the wires. Epoxy is your friend.
@@351cleavlandone more option is to remove the PCV/vent pipe from your oil filler neck and use that inlet, you wouldn't need to extend your wires at all. You could vent it to atmosphere to keep from modifying too much. That's what I would do.
The one thing that you were incorrect about. Was my Ranger came stock with 556 gears The codes on my door. I got to admit I've rebuilt multiple rangers out of all the BS that people put on here You made a good video man. It would be cool if you did some kind of commentary on the flex fuel engine if it's even possible
What, to adapt the 4.0L intake tube to a filter? You can use the whole intake box from a 4.0L if you want to keep it stock, the 5.0L MAF bolts right up to it and fits with the tube. Otherwise, for a cone filter, it's just a MAF housing adapter plate and elbow, pretty much all at AutoZone or online.
@@Alahdeen_thanks! I’m only 16 and trying to learn more stuff about engines and how they work and stuff. So what things did you do to the ranger to get better gas mileage? Obviously the new fuel injectors and bigger air intake make you use more gas, and you mentioned you had done an upgrade to alter that, what did you do?
@@MichaelR.Lindblad the truck is lowered, which lets almost no air underneath the truck. Air under the truck can create more drag and resistance in driving. I also have side skirts on the truck, which do the same. That's why semi trucks hug the ground and have that flashing and front bumper that doesn't let air under the truck. I also have a tonneau cover which doesn't allow the bed to add any vortexes to behind the cab and the air passes over smoothly and aerodynamically. It's also a 5 speed manual so staying in 5th gear and at a constant speed keeps the engine more efficient
One more thing, do you have some links you could possibly reply to me with for some of the stuff you got ? Like injectors, the fan and shroud... stuff like that ?
www.ebay.com/itm/153969476294?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=WDnZWFguTZ-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=-x0eZDHnTo-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY This is the original listing for the injectors I got. Theyve since doubled in price so just find the green tip 19# injectors for a flex fuel ranger 01+ www.amazon.com/dp/B01ENV78AG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Fan shroud www.amazon.com/dp/B0034G2IFC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Fan
I made my 2wd 3.G0 5sp faster by junking the 3:45 gears and adding 3:08 gears. Never used overdrive after that. 120mph in 4th was fast enough. Who cares about gas mileage?
I love how detailed you are about each of your modifications. Informing us beforehand that you already have other parts that could also change performance. As someone who is just getting into trucks, that helps me a lot. Very descriptive about what needs to be done and how to do it, keep it up!
FanFknTastic!! Best video ive seen on the entire TH-cam platform for any vehicle modification or tutorial in general. Common sense, logic, explanation clear as day, completely followed you every step of the way. Im dropping a complete reman (powertorque) 3.0 in my 04 today. I KNEW those damn injectors had to do with the 171 & 173s lean and misfires and not a vacuum leak. You just un-fkd the engineered fckry from da fackry!!!! Good on ya Bro!! May karmic blessings make it rain whatever it is you want to rain down on ya! Peace...
I did something sort of similar. Kept the torque biased aluminum manifold on mine, deleted heater hoses, ported the hell out of the manifolds and really polished the exhaust side of heads. BBK 56mm TB halfshafted, and cut the MAF post.
So I kept EGR and it still uses the 58psi flex pump and injectors. I think the ASP crank pulley is a decent gain, and the shift kit helps the auto a TON. Also did headers back. I'm eager to do the electric fan, don't have that yet.
Nice vid, saw you on the sub too. Unfortunately mine is 4200-4400 lbs and high mileage, but it's a world of difference over how it was
Where can I get the shift kit
Thanks for the video man, will definetly be back to ask some questions when next summer comes around and I can work on my 3.0 again lol
since no one else said it.... lol
never heard anyone pronounce it "plee-num" 😄
We are building a Daily Driven Landspeed 93 Ford Ranger Splash with the Vulcan 3.0 on our channel. Since it's a 93 we are working with speed density EFI. The plan is to use later pistons for more compression, do some flowbench testing on the cylinder heads with different valve jobs, fit LS beehive valve springs and 1.8 ratio rockers. Other than that the EFan like you have done along with headers and exhaust. Have you put your truck on a Dyno or just done the butt Dyno or maybe dragy?
The rest is all intake, throttle body, injectors, fuel system for higher pressure, and shimmed valves.
Only butt Dyno but I have raced my 2011 with the 4.0L and 3.55 gears and this 3.0 is faster. Currently the truck has a 5.0L in it that I haven't done the first drive of yet. Planning on doing a video soon.
Thanks for the reply! We are going to Dyno after the changes, truck was DOA, and in between anything after the baseline. We probably should have just put the 5.0l in the truck but that class where we race is super competitive. Not to mention this is the first truck high school daily 98% of the time. We look forward to seeing your new setup!
@@LateStartRacingTeam if you're going all the way, I made custom headers for my 5.0l, or you could buy the adapter plates from tom morana racing to mount 3.8 mustang tubular headers. Huge improvement
I have seen Tom's stuff. That's where I got the roller rockers idea. I have been looking at inexpensive header cross over combos for a 4.0l Ranger as those are still common. We figured I could modify those instead of starting from scratch. Maybe save some time but likely not, hahaha
Im glad to see Budweiser having a good day.
Vulcan is really good. I believe he held himself back in a way though because he seen through things, understood enough to know it'd work and improve, but like he seemed to lack some kind of confidence. Like very low spoken. But his results are actually proven. I've done a couple of the same mods, headers, full cold air with the filter aimed up at a functional hood scoop, 8.8 spark wires and 50k volt coil and free flow cat delete exhaust. I'm yet to do the clutch fan delete an replace with electric and do the MAF mod. I also want to do the 1.7 rockers and better fuel rails from tom Morena. I have the JBA headers. Summit sells the aftermarket replacement parts to make the stock 7.5 as tough as an 8.8 with solid Richmond parts all the way. But honestly I'd like to see someone actually bust the bank and get the full tom Morena stroker kit, stage 3 heads, cam, roller rockers, supercharger plate, m112 supercharger and whatever else I'm missing to see what a maxed out 3.0 can actually do
Do you know what the part number for those headers are? I can't seem to find anything for the life of me
Thanks for the breakdown!
How did you plumb the adjustable fuel pressure unit? Im trying to turbo my 3.0
@@codymoser65 how did I plumb it? Meaning how did I incorporate it into the system. You can either use a Ford fuel rail to an fitting, but what I did was swap my fuel filter from the return style to a non return k&n filter then ran the line back to the pump
@@Alahdeen_ so you ran it ahead of the rail through the stock regulator with no issue?
@codymoser65 I have my own fuel cell, pump, and external regulator with a return. I said it in the video
Yo your the bolt on danger ranger off the subredit i love that truck and im gonna to do this to mine soon
3.0s are pretty hard to get power out of without using boost and arent really worth trying to get power naturally aspirated
Nice video. Breaks your modifications down logically and easy to follow.
What size injectors did you use?
Or, what were the injectors out of?
Also, did changing the MAF and injectors change MPG noticably?
What about low end torque?
Thanks!
19lb injectors running at 60-70 variable fuel pressure. They came out of a flex fuel 3.0L ranger. Mpg increased but as I alluded to in the video I didn't want to make any claims since I've done other mods which gives me better mpg. But yes, in my experience the mpg from when I got the truck and drove it normally, to now and I drive it into the ground- is much better.
The low end torque is not only better, but mostly the revs come on faster. The ranger stock is a dog. I mash the pedal, the 245 tires spin. Not huge for different cars but for a ranger that's something
Hey, thanks for the perspective!!!😀@@Alahdeen_
One more question: On the air intake hose where did you place your air intake temp sensor?
Mine goes in the intake tube but it doesn't look like the 4.0 intake hose has a space for it.@@Alahdeen_
2001 and onward 3.0L do not have air intake temp sensors. They're combined into the mass airflow sensor. If you need to install one, the spot I plugged with a wine cork all the way on the right near the throttle body would would well, @3:03 as long as you affix it strongly and extend the wires. Epoxy is your friend.
@@351cleavlandone more option is to remove the PCV/vent pipe from your oil filler neck and use that inlet, you wouldn't need to extend your wires at all. You could vent it to atmosphere to keep from modifying too much. That's what I would do.
The one thing that you were incorrect about. Was my Ranger came stock with 556 gears The codes on my door. I got to admit I've rebuilt multiple rangers out of all the BS that people put on here You made a good video man. It would be cool if you did some kind of commentary on the flex fuel engine if it's even possible
4.56 gears in the fx ll level 148 or whatever. They came factory with 31x10.50 tires.
What kind of air intake tubes/ filter should I get and where could I get that?
What, to adapt the 4.0L intake tube to a filter? You can use the whole intake box from a 4.0L if you want to keep it stock, the 5.0L MAF bolts right up to it and fits with the tube. Otherwise, for a cone filter, it's just a MAF housing adapter plate and elbow, pretty much all at AutoZone or online.
@@Alahdeen_thanks! I’m only 16 and trying to learn more stuff about engines and how they work and stuff.
So what things did you do to the ranger to get better gas mileage? Obviously the new fuel injectors and bigger air intake make you use more gas, and you mentioned you had done an upgrade to alter that, what did you do?
@@MichaelR.Lindblad the truck is lowered, which lets almost no air underneath the truck. Air under the truck can create more drag and resistance in driving. I also have side skirts on the truck, which do the same. That's why semi trucks hug the ground and have that flashing and front bumper that doesn't let air under the truck. I also have a tonneau cover which doesn't allow the bed to add any vortexes to behind the cab and the air passes over smoothly and aerodynamically. It's also a 5 speed manual so staying in 5th gear and at a constant speed keeps the engine more efficient
@@Alahdeen_oh ok just aerodynamics and stuff. What was the mpg before and after?
@@MichaelR.Lindblad went from around 12 to 20, and 32 on the highway
One more thing, do you have some links you could possibly reply to me with for some of the stuff you got ? Like injectors, the fan and shroud... stuff like that ?
www.ebay.com/itm/153969476294?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=WDnZWFguTZ-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=-x0eZDHnTo-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
This is the original listing for the injectors I got. Theyve since doubled in price so just find the green tip 19# injectors for a flex fuel ranger 01+
www.amazon.com/dp/B01ENV78AG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Fan shroud
www.amazon.com/dp/B0034G2IFC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Fan
@@Alahdeen_ thanks alot, know it's been a minute but I just got this haha !
it would be awesome if you guys raced 😂
I love that you made headgasket job sound like a fun weekend 😂😂🫡
What is the specs on the wheels and tires
17x9, 245 45 17, MST time attack +25 offset, 2.5inch spacers in the rear and 3 inch spacers in the front. They're 19.5 pounds a piece
great video , nice ideas ! Wish i could do this in California ! it would never pass smog tests.
man i’d hate to live in a state where mods of any type are illegal
Well all I can say is thank God you have a clean engine bay. That lends credence or credibility to what you're saying
I gotta get richened up. Hell ya my ford fkn ranger.
How do you achieve what you never had
I like when you started it
I made my 2wd 3.G0 5sp faster by junking the 3:45 gears and adding 3:08 gears. Never used overdrive after that.
120mph in 4th was fast enough. Who cares about gas mileage?
I want to get mine healthy while i build an 5.3 or something.
you a jeen-yus!
3.0
Three point slow
I like when you started it