Hey y'all! I made a guide to look up your spark plug thread sizes! ►►► SPARK PLUG THREAD SIZE GUIDE: th-cam.com/video/GWU7-_nGq2U/w-d-xo.html ◄◄◄ Links to tool in description (Amazon Affiliate)
+eric pigg You're welcome! It will work perfectly for a Grizzly if you can get to the spark plug. Make sure that you wash any dirt/mud off extremly well before you do this.
Juat had the first couple threads strip on my V8. Gonna have to do this to save the aluminum heads. Thanks for the video, this looks like a life saver.
It's good to verify the damage before anything. In my case the spark plug was hard to move, it looked like it was crossthreaded. I almost ended up rethreading when I looked by chance and saw small amount of varnish build up at the bottom. I proceeded to clean the threads and the problem was gone. It's good to verify the damage before doing any rethreading.
I've used taps to fix the treads while the heads are on but you do have to be very careful. Grease, small vacuum hose, compressed air, or maybe piece of paper towel stuck way down the hole.
What size would I need for a klx140? And my bike still has some threads left but not many so would this tool work? If not what would work? The threads hold the spark plug tight but when the bike runs there is small amount of air coming out the side
This is quite a find. I only found one guy in town that knew what a back-tap was. People typically use a HeliCoil, which also requires tapping the hole bigger.
Dear Matt, thank you for sharing this, it' really life saving. To use this tool for a NGK CR7E should i use the 10 or 12 mm tool? Thank you in advance.
Hey, I have a honda xr80r, and the previous owner had stripped the spark plug hole and drilled it out to 12mm, so its almost interfering with the valves, if that makes sense, but there is no threads and I don't know what to do, like if I should use jb weld to fill it in and use a 10mm spark plug, but I I don't know if it could withstand the heat, so if you had any ideas Matt that would be awesome.
I would have just gotten a new head at that point. JB weld isn't going to hold up to the heat or pressure. You can get a used head and swap all of the stuff over, but you have to know exactly what you're doing with the timing, valve clearances, valve seat angles, and everything.
Hey Matt Thank You for this Video.I have a question,my spark plug threads are also stripped and my original and standard spark plug size is C7HSA and i want to oversize it and turn it to DH7A.What size of hand tap should i use ? Thanks for the Answer 🙂🙂🙂
The first one: C7HSA has 10mm threads. I can't find that other spark plug. You have a different part number? Are the threads too far gone for one of these tools to work?
Take exhaust off push in a rag coated in grease on top of the piston . Tap/clean threads using normal or reverse tool with grease applied. Carefully remove rag hopefully caught any loose odd debris . Re fit exhaust . Run engine for 5 mins. Change oil and filter Should be good to go !
MORE GREAT TIPS .....THANK YOU😎 I just finished retracing my threads....it went very slow....my Generac engine required this maintenance....the threads were not buggered up ....they have always been ugly to loosen or tighten so I took the time to retrace them.....I did see teeny tiny metal in the grease at intervals I cleaned the tool and reapplied new grease. When you begin this retrace make sure your tool is aligned to the existing threads on the cylinder. All of this extra work was due to adjusting the valves....I had to remove spark plug to bring piston to TDC. WHAT A FIGHT BUT VICTORY WAS FOUND😎😎😎😎😎 Hurricane Dorian will arrive tomorrow
Thanks for the idea! Can you put an extension on it? I was doing a tune up and a spark plug for cylinder number 2 won’t go in all the way. It goes in pretty deep just not enough for the coil pad to be put on and secured properly.
Hey I know this is an old video, but I watched it and got me one of those, but I have a problem with the tool. When you demonstrate it Matt, you can widen the tool without putting pressure on the end, but with mine, it just keeps spinning and thusly never expands. Am I doing something wrong here or is my till faulty in some way? I'd appreciate any help here.
@@MattsShop Yup I see what you're saying, however I need to tighten it way past it beginning to expand, before it stops spinning. And by that time I can no longer get it in the hole without engaging the threads. Do I need Davinchi level of feel for this or is my Powerbuilt Tool ready for a refund?
@@MattsShop Thanks for the reply! Yup it gets tight at the bottom where the good threads supposedly are and that's where I need to be able to pass. Maybe the threads are just to far gone?
Arite pal just came this video. First time seen this tool within cool still a bit consided the metal has gone past before hand is that bike still going ....
Hey Matt, good video! I’ve got a 125cc pitbike & the plug is extremely loose & actually shoots out when trying to start the bike! Is there any other methods of fixing this problem or even a quick fix? As tomorrow is Sunday I will not be able to get anything that I need to properly fix it, but would still like to drive it tomorrow lol, thanks! Calvin.
Also, i’ll add that I got it started and driving for a short time, got into 2nd gear at maybe 15mph and the spark plug blew out of the head causing the bike to die out... Was it a really bad idea trying to get a quick fix? It’s obviously not good for the bike, but would what I just described be very bad/detrimental to the bike? Again, thanks, I really appreciate any help/guidance lol!
Nah, the bike is probably fine. It's just going to rip out the threads. You are going to have put a helicoil, timecert, or buy a new head/gaskets. It's up to you. Whatever you do. Make sure you don't get metal in the motor.
Matt's Shop Thanks for the speedy reply! I will look into purchasing a helicoil to suit, and might just leave the bike sitting until then. You don’t recommend any quick fixes then no lol?
Hey this video gives a great idea! To what depth do you push the back tap tool into the hole? Shouldn't you worry about the existing threads aligning with the tool? Please respond ASAP
You insert the tool until the threaded part of the tool is all the way in the hole. Then you expand the tool and start turning it backwards. It will be easy to align the threads.
Hey, my spark plug hole is REALLY stripped. I tried starting my bike when apparently the spark plug wasn't tight enough and it just popped out. It hardly grabs the threads at all (But will slightly) Is there any risk in trying the back tap? I got the tool, but am still hesitant to try. If it doesn't thread, can I use a helicoil? Thanks! I guess I'm slightly worried there might be tiny metal shaving in the engine from when the spark plug blew out. I just don't want to mess it up more trying to fix it.
You can try the back-tap, but if there is not enough metal left then it will not work very well. Most people either buy a new head or install something called a Timesert. You don't want to use a normal Heli-Coil on spark plug holes. They make a special one for spark plugs.
@@MattsShop Thank you for clearing that. Cause I've seen comments saying a helicoil is like a timesert. I think Helicoil is a brand that mainly makes a spring shaped coil, I've used those on normal bolts but never spark plugs. I believe they have a keensert or timesert style one also.
Will this work for me? I have an Arctic Cat 400 4x4 with a stripped out spark plug hole. The CR7E spark plug screws in and can screw off but it won't tighten it just spins.
This most likely won't work for you. This tool is made for crossthreaded spark plug holes. It sounds like you completely stripped out the threads. You need to look up videos on a thing called a "timesert". It is a steel insert that installs brand new threads. That is the best way but a little expensive. You can also use a "helicoil", but it is not as good a fix. It is much cheaper though a lot of people don't like them.
My plug screws in all the way but wont tighten, just spins. Will this work for me or is it just good for plugs that wont screw in all the way? My plug is ngk br83s. What size do i need?
I hate to tell you, but this is mainly for cross-threaded plugs. If your plug doesn't get tight it means the metal has been ripped out. NGK BR8ES is a 14mm thread. You can try, but you probably need what's called a "time-sert".
Yea, they work really well as long as there is still a good amount of threads left, especially at the bottom of the hole. Just make sure that you look up what the threads are of your spark plug. If you go to Autozone's website and look up spark plugs for your make/model you can usually find the thread size in the parts description. If you don't know what it is by looking at it.
nice quality video. what did you use to record? always wondered if these work. never had to use them fortunately. .. btw might want to add to blow out the hole with air before removing plug or you can get more junk in there. also antisieze to lubricate threads and keep plugs from sticking
Chris C Thanks! It was filmed on a Galaxy S6 phone set to 1080P 60FPS believe it or not. Yup, I always blow the area with compressed air before removing the spark plug. There is always a little bit of dirt down in there that needs to get blown out so that it doesn't fall down into the motor. Yea, these things work awesome for sure. It boggles my mind why they don't sell them at big box stores and only sell the screw in tap/thread restorer type. For sure, always put anti-seize on the threads and never over-torque them so you never have to use one of these in the first place.
I don't like the back tap. There's no guarantee that when you expand it you won't do more damage because you have no idea how wide to expand it. There's also no guarantee you won't be dropping shavings into the cylinder anyway. Aluminum is unlikely to damage the cylinder walls which are made of hardened steel. In most cases aluminum debris will just blow out the valves anyway without doing damage.
+Roadghost88 I respect your opinion, but I like back taps. I think they are pretty amazing. I'm not a fan of recutting already existing threads bad things can happen like a loose plug. Maybe the aluminum wouldn't really do much damage, but it still makes me cringe at the thought of dropping any metal down into the motor. How do you know that it will ever find it's way out of the motor and not just bounce around in there forever doing damage?
You can check Amazon in the UK and search for "10mm spark plug back tap". You could check eBay too. It's hard to say, but you'll just have to look around.
I had trouble getting the tool in the plug hole. It was very tight. I had to twist and jiggle to get it into the hole. Then when I expanded the tool and tried backing it out it got wedged in the hole. It is now in the hole, but it is sloppy. I can wiggle it, but it won't back out even when the tool is fully collapsed.
Were you able to get it out? I can't see why it would get stuck in the hole like that when it is fully collapsed. It is pretty small at that point. Your spark plug hole must be really damaged! Can you thread it out at all in the fully collapsed position?
tony purpura Hmmm I don't know. It sounds like your spark plug hole threads are probably ripped out. This will only fix it if there are some good threads left. Your repair is going to be much more involved than this:(
tony purpura sounds like the threads are chewed up enough that the plug is wallowing in the gallery. You'll most likely have to tap it and helicoil the head
No it won't. Problem is the hole is already losing aluminum and is actually too large for the current plug to fit properly. Use Timesert or Helicoil to fix properly.
They're out?? Hit up eBay! I don't think this one is Made In USA, but here's one. 10mm: ebay.to/2uDuEV8 10mm + 12mm: ebay.to/2miAJ5K He says this one is made by KD Tools. (Should be the same ones I have in the video.)
one trick when using a thread tap, dont use grease so that when the metal shavings fall into the motor they wont stick. cuz once your done you crank the motor over a few times with the spark plug removed it will blow the metal shavings out of the hole.
+James Bailey If you use this tool it just "massages" the plug threads back to what they are supposed to be. No insert needed, jut put the plug back in!
+James Bailey Yea, it only works if you have some threads to bite into though. If you ripped them all out it's no good, but that'd be extreme so yea, snug er down.
You only want to do that if you ripped all the threads out. I still had near perfect threads. They were just a little messed up in the middle of the hole.
Matt's Shop With that tool, you can't tell if you're adjusting it to the right size. If you adjust it too wide, the plug can come out. A thread chaser would be better if the threads are a little messed up. A tap would be the best tool.
Have you ever used one of these? Trust me! This thing works perfectly better than any of that other stuff. If you have a chance to ever use one you should try it. It just depends if you have enough threads left. This tool massages the threads it doesn't cut anything. You can't really mess up the threads. You just expand it a little at a time and check to see if the plug goes in. If not, just expand it a little more until your plug threads in.
Matt's Shop A steel insert is permanent and is one size. If you tap it too big, the plug can come out. It'll also enlarge the hole and then you need a insert. Aluminum expands when warm.
+Carl Yea, a tap makes it too big. I would never use one. This basically "mushes" the threads back into shape. There's no metal removed so the plug can't get loose.
+zaine swarts They are called "back taps". I put links in the description where you can order any size you need. The big box stores don't sell them, but they should!
It really depends. If the threads are ripped out, no it won't work well. If they are just cross-threaded where there is enough meat left it is worth a shot.
You have a couple options: Try this back-tap (10mm x 1.0 Spark plug threads) Try a regular tap (10mm x 1.0 Spark plug threads) Get what's called a Time-Sert thread insert kit. (Have to remove head)(Expensive) Take the head off and to a machine shop to fix it. (Expensive) Get a used head off of a parts motor maybe on eBay.(Valve seats might be worn out)(Expensive) If there is no metal left you don't really have a choice. There might be more metal there than you think though. I'd try the cheaper options first. You can always return the tool if it didn't work for you.
man screw chevy I got 1 spark hole stripped from the factory! Thing was screwed halfway in for 140,000 miles. You can see a ring of rust on the inside and bare aluminum where the spark plug currently threads into. Of course chevy wants a lot of money to fix with no warranty what a joke. I'll give this a try. It's the hardest plug to reach too that's probably why they stripped it to being with.
+infringinator What year what truck? No matter how well somthing is designed you can't prevent all screw ups from at factory. Yea, it's sad, but true most all dealerships just want your money and won't help you afterwards. Ford, Toyota, any of them would have done that lol
its a 2007 chevy silverado. If the original plug was only in halfway and lasted 140,000 miles I'm not sure it's worth fixing at this point. If the back tap messes up I'm screwed, and a few reviews said the damn thing snapped off and broke into the cylinder head! In a perfect world I could back tap and see what a V8 really feels like lol
+infringinator It probably backed itself out. I've seen it happen before, just to be fair to Chevy. Just go slow and gradually expand the back tap tool. It will not break off in there if you are patient and go slow it SHOULD fix it. Let me know how it goes.
no it was nice and tight one side of the cylinder threads they look almost melted, and the other side has threads with a gash in one lol. I really dont know how a factory messes up something like spark plug holes but maybe the guy was checking his phone texts while building mine. I'll decide if I'm going to try repairing. If the old one lasted 140,000 miles maybe it's worth leaving it be.
yeaa ill just take the head off and tap it bc my threads are basically non existent lmao i can legit put the sparkplug in without even screwing it it the plug just drops in and ngl idk how it got like that
![[ENGSUB] UNPRODUCTIVE DAY ใช้ชีวิต (เปื่อยๆ) ด้วยกัน 1 วัน! | OUROAD CLOSEFRiEND SS2 EP.9](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pyYKZ3kra9w/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey y'all! I made a guide to look up your spark plug thread sizes!
►►► SPARK PLUG THREAD SIZE GUIDE: th-cam.com/video/GWU7-_nGq2U/w-d-xo.html ◄◄◄
Links to tool in description (Amazon Affiliate)
Just can't thank you enough Matt for making this video. Just used this on my 1971 Honda CB350 that I'm restoring. You saved me bud, Cheers!
You're welcome!! Im glad it helped!
Thanks for the vid! Just bought this tool for my Grizzzly 550 and it worked like a charm!
+eric pigg You're welcome! It will work perfectly for a Grizzly if you can get to the spark plug. Make sure that you wash any dirt/mud off extremly well before you do this.
Juat had the first couple threads strip on my V8.
Gonna have to do this to save the aluminum heads. Thanks for the video, this looks like a life saver.
It works great if there is still some metal for the tool to grab onto.
@@MattsShop only the first couple threads are damaged, the bottom side of the threads are mint
It should work great then.
@@MattsShop worked extreamly well! 3 passes just to be safe
Awesome time saver. Worked perfectly….
🙌🏽thanks for posting!
You bet!
It's good to verify the damage before anything. In my case the spark plug was hard to move, it looked like it was crossthreaded. I almost ended up rethreading when I looked by chance and saw small amount of varnish build up at the bottom. I proceeded to clean the threads and the problem was gone. It's good to verify the damage before doing any rethreading.
Thank you! You saved me from having to disassemble my entire engine! This method works great
You're welcome! Glad I saved you all that trouble!
How do you know what size to order? I have jet ski vx1100 with stuck threads in cylinder heads after over tightening them
Look up the spark plug part number on any autoparts website. It will tell you the thread size in mm 14mm, 12mm, 10mm, etc...
I've used taps to fix the treads while the heads are on but you do have to be very careful. Grease, small vacuum hose, compressed air, or maybe piece of paper towel stuck way down the hole.
What size would I need for a klx140? And my bike still has some threads left but not many so would this tool work? If not what would work? The threads hold the spark plug tight but when the bike runs there is small amount of air coming out the side
Looks like a 10mm tool. Look up your spark plug on NGK's website. It'll tell you the thread size. It's hard to tell. It's worth a shot.
The size of the tool like 10/12/14 mm is the size of thread or the size of the hole ? Thanks in advance
They are standard spark plug hole sizes. That's how spark plugs are measured.
This is quite a find. I only found one guy in town that knew what a back-tap was. People typically use a HeliCoil, which also requires tapping the hole bigger.
Yea, no one knows about these. They are AWESOME!
I have a 2002 big bear 400 4x4 with a ngk DR8EA plug. What size tool should i use?
12mm x 1.25 Thread Pitch. Link in the description or here: amzn.to/3jGqLZT
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
@@MattsShop Thanks 👍
Dear Matt, thank you for sharing this, it' really life saving. To use this tool for a NGK CR7E should i use the 10 or 12 mm tool? Thank you in advance.
You're welcome. That spark plug needs the 10mm tool.
Hey, I have a honda xr80r, and the previous owner had stripped the spark plug hole and drilled it out to 12mm, so its almost interfering with the valves, if that makes sense, but there is no threads and I don't know what to do, like if I should use jb weld to fill it in and use a 10mm spark plug, but I I don't know if it could withstand the heat, so if you had any ideas Matt that would be awesome.
I would have just gotten a new head at that point. JB weld isn't going to hold up to the heat or pressure. You can get a used head and swap all of the stuff over, but you have to know exactly what you're doing with the timing, valve clearances, valve seat angles, and everything.
1980 Honda 200CMT 9k miles need to do this...thank you sir!
Hey Matt Thank You for this Video.I have a question,my spark plug threads are also stripped and my original and standard spark plug size is C7HSA and i want to oversize it and turn it to DH7A.What size of hand tap should i use ?
Thanks for the Answer 🙂🙂🙂
The first one: C7HSA has 10mm threads. I can't find that other spark plug. You have a different part number? Are the threads too far gone for one of these tools to work?
Which back tap should i use for an Ngk CR7GHP?
Awesome video ! I have that problem right now unbelievable this tool is going to come in Handy ! Thank you so much. Woooo.
You're welcome!
Excellent thanks
You are welcome
Take exhaust off push in a rag coated in grease on top of the piston . Tap/clean threads using normal or reverse tool with grease applied. Carefully remove rag hopefully caught any loose odd debris . Re fit exhaust .
Run engine for 5 mins.
Change oil and filter
Should be good to go !
MORE GREAT TIPS .....THANK YOU😎
I just finished retracing my threads....it went very slow....my Generac engine required this maintenance....the threads were not buggered up ....they have always been ugly to loosen or tighten so I took the time to retrace them.....I did see teeny tiny metal in the grease at intervals I cleaned the tool and reapplied new grease. When you begin this retrace make sure your tool is aligned to the existing threads on the cylinder.
All of this extra work was due to adjusting the valves....I had to remove spark plug to bring piston to TDC.
WHAT A FIGHT BUT VICTORY WAS FOUND😎😎😎😎😎
Hurricane Dorian will arrive tomorrow
Great tips never thought of the rag in the engine. This reverse tap tool doesn't make any metal shards. It just massages the threads back to normal.
How are you going to get a rag on top of the piston on a 4-stroke?
I have a Yamaha ttr 90 do you know the mm size I need help thanks matt's shop
10mm check them out in the description.
Thanks for the idea! Can you put an extension on it? I was doing a tune up and a spark plug for cylinder number 2 won’t go in all the way. It goes in pretty deep just not enough for the coil pad to be put on and secured properly.
You, can put an extension on the back of the tool it just depends what you are working on.
Omg finally a video that makes sense!!!! Thanks Matt. The reverse tap explanation video seemed to be missing from everything else so far :)
You're welcome! Thanks, these things are AWESOME!
Would you have a link for that plug thread repair tool
Description
I can't find it in the description
Hey I know this is an old video, but I watched it and got me one of those, but I have a problem with the tool. When you demonstrate it Matt, you can widen the tool without putting pressure on the end, but with mine, it just keeps spinning and thusly never expands. Am I doing something wrong here or is my till faulty in some way? I'd appreciate any help here.
You have to tighten up the end a little before you put it in the spark plug hole. You want it the adjuster tight before you insert it.
@@MattsShop Yup I see what you're saying, however I need to tighten it way past it beginning to expand, before it stops spinning. And by that time I can no longer get it in the hole without engaging the threads. Do I need Davinchi level of feel for this or is my Powerbuilt Tool ready for a refund?
@@scandinerdian1961 You can engage the threads a little bit if it's loose and sloppy. If it's tight don't do it though!!!
@@MattsShop Thanks for the reply! Yup it gets tight at the bottom where the good threads supposedly are and that's where I need to be able to pass. Maybe the threads are just to far gone?
Arite pal just came this video. First time seen this tool within cool still a bit consided the metal has gone past before hand is that bike still going ....
Hey Matt, good video! I’ve got a 125cc pitbike & the plug is extremely loose & actually shoots out when trying to start the bike! Is there any other methods of fixing this problem or even a quick fix? As tomorrow is Sunday I will not be able to get anything that I need to properly fix it, but would still like to drive it tomorrow lol, thanks! Calvin.
Also, i’ll add that I got it started and driving for a short time, got into 2nd gear at maybe 15mph and the spark plug blew out of the head causing the bike to die out... Was it a really bad idea trying to get a quick fix? It’s obviously not good for the bike, but would what I just described be very bad/detrimental to the bike? Again, thanks, I really appreciate any help/guidance lol!
Nah, the bike is probably fine. It's just going to rip out the threads. You are going to have put a helicoil, timecert, or buy a new head/gaskets. It's up to you. Whatever you do. Make sure you don't get metal in the motor.
Matt's Shop Thanks for the speedy reply! I will look into purchasing a helicoil to suit, and might just leave the bike sitting until then.
You don’t recommend any quick fixes then no lol?
Lol yea, you're welcome. No there are no quick fixes.
Matt's Shop Ok got it lol, thanks again buddy, really appreciate it!!
Nice info
hi, is the motorbike still working? awesome video!!
Yes!
Hey this video gives a great idea! To what depth do you push the back tap tool into the hole?
Shouldn't you worry about the existing threads aligning with the tool? Please respond ASAP
You insert the tool until the threaded part of the tool is all the way in the hole. Then you expand the tool and start turning it backwards. It will be easy to align the threads.
Does it work for sizes?
They have different sizes.
Hey, my spark plug hole is REALLY stripped. I tried starting my bike when apparently the spark plug wasn't tight enough and it just popped out. It hardly grabs the threads at all (But will slightly) Is there any risk in trying the back tap? I got the tool, but am still hesitant to try. If it doesn't thread, can I use a helicoil? Thanks! I guess I'm slightly worried there might be tiny metal shaving in the engine from when the spark plug blew out. I just don't want to mess it up more trying to fix it.
You can try the back-tap, but if there is not enough metal left then it will not work very well. Most people either buy a new head or install something called a Timesert. You don't want to use a normal Heli-Coil on spark plug holes. They make a special one for spark plugs.
@@MattsShop Thank you for clearing that. Cause I've seen comments saying a helicoil is like a timesert. I think Helicoil is a brand that mainly makes a spring shaped coil, I've used those on normal bolts but never spark plugs. I believe they have a keensert or timesert style one also.
Hi the back tap for the 14 mm tool is what thread pitch?
14mm x 1.25mm
Hi can i fix my thread spark plug with Hand screw tap wrench tap die set?
NOOO! You'll end up with a loose hole and metal in your motor. Try this tool first.
Where can you buy that tool
Amazon: amzn.to/3PFbbv1 They got a couple different thread sizes.
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Will this work for me? I have an Arctic Cat 400 4x4 with a stripped out spark plug hole. The CR7E spark plug screws in and can screw off but it won't tighten it just spins.
This most likely won't work for you. This tool is made for crossthreaded spark plug holes. It sounds like you completely stripped out the threads.
You need to look up videos on a thing called a "timesert". It is a steel insert that installs brand new threads. That is the best way but a little expensive.
You can also use a "helicoil", but it is not as good a fix. It is much cheaper though a lot of people don't like them.
I have a 2005 Yamaha yz6 what size should I need
A 2005 Yamaha FZ6?
My plug screws in all the way but wont tighten, just spins. Will this work for me or is it just good for plugs that wont screw in all the way? My plug is ngk br83s. What size do i need?
I hate to tell you, but this is mainly for cross-threaded plugs. If your plug doesn't get tight it means the metal has been ripped out.
NGK BR8ES is a 14mm thread.
You can try, but you probably need what's called a "time-sert".
I have a vn1600 classic and one of my holes are stripped, what size would I need?
Looks like 12mm for all years.
cool demo! i might buy an xr 75 head but sparkplug threads are bad
If you're buying a new head get one with good threads PLEASE!!
Thanks for the video bro, this may be the answer to my problem..Im trying this for sure..
Yes, please try this it works amazingly.
Which back-tap should I use for an NGK (6664) BR7EIX plug? Appreciate the assist
+James Douglas 14 mm so yo need this one: amzn.to/2ig7HkA
No problem
You're the man, man!
James Douglas Haha thanks, no you're the man!
thanks man I have a BMW 325 near my vent spark plug been stripped. it's a 1995 hope it works on my car
Yea, they work really well as long as there is still a good amount of threads left, especially at the bottom of the hole. Just make sure that you look up what the threads are of your spark plug. If you go to Autozone's website and look up spark plugs for your make/model you can usually find the thread size in the parts description. If you don't know what it is by looking at it.
nice quality video. what did you use to record? always wondered if these work. never had to use them fortunately. .. btw might want to add to blow out the hole with air before removing plug or you can get more junk in there. also antisieze to lubricate threads and keep plugs from sticking
Chris C Thanks! It was filmed on a Galaxy S6 phone set to 1080P 60FPS believe it or not. Yup, I always blow the area with compressed air before removing the spark plug. There is always a little bit of dirt down in there that needs to get blown out so that it doesn't fall down into the motor.
Yea, these things work awesome for sure. It boggles my mind why they don't sell them at big box stores and only sell the screw in tap/thread restorer type.
For sure, always put anti-seize on the threads and never over-torque them so you never have to use one of these in the first place.
What would you do in a case where the park plug doesn’t get stuck but just keeps spinning
I would get a new or used head on ebay, a time-sert, or a helicoil.
How do i get piston down great video by the way
Just tap the electric start or use the kick start until it goes all the way down.
@@MattsShop thanks got sealey tool 14mm will try this tomorrow
Hi Matt a million thanks finaly got it done you save me a fortune thank you for taking the time to post this you are legend
I bought one of these but the backtap of the tool doesn’t move upwards and expand the thread, is my tool defective?
It should work. Did you buy the wrong thing?
Good job.
+David's Favorite Videos Thanks!
I don't like the back tap. There's no guarantee that when you expand it you won't do more damage because you have no idea how wide to expand it. There's also no guarantee you won't be dropping shavings into the cylinder anyway. Aluminum is unlikely to damage the cylinder walls which are made of hardened steel. In most cases aluminum debris will just blow out the valves anyway without doing damage.
+Roadghost88 I respect your opinion, but I like back taps. I think they are pretty amazing. I'm not a fan of recutting already existing threads bad things can happen like a loose plug.
Maybe the aluminum wouldn't really do much damage, but it still makes me cringe at the thought of dropping any metal down into the motor.
How do you know that it will ever find it's way out of the motor and not just bounce around in there forever doing damage?
If it makes you feel better knock yourself out. But in my experience you aren't any further ahead.
What's the name of this tool
Spark plug back tap. Links to buy them in description.
Nice. 100 % ❤️
Thanks!!
Yes this is it
I knew it would be
Thank You...BIG TIME !!!!!
Glad I could help out. Yea, I'm a HUGE fan of anti-sieze.
what size do I need to fix a crown vic spark plug the hole is stipped
It should be 14mm x 1.25. The 14mm one in the description will work. Thanks for watching, don't forget to subscribe!
where can i buy the 10mm? i live in the UK n ur Amazon link don't work as its american
You can check Amazon in the UK and search for "10mm spark plug back tap". You could check eBay too. It's hard to say, but you'll just have to look around.
Red Legion amazon has them for like $25 USD
I had trouble getting the tool in the plug hole. It was very tight. I had to twist and jiggle to get it into the hole. Then when I expanded the tool and tried backing it out it got wedged in the hole. It is now in the hole, but it is sloppy. I can wiggle it, but it won't back out even when the tool is fully collapsed.
Were you able to get it out? I can't see why it would get stuck in the hole like that when it is fully collapsed. It is pretty small at that point. Your spark plug hole must be really damaged! Can you thread it out at all in the fully collapsed position?
lmao naughty
Haha That's not funny!
I have a problem that the plug goes all the way in but, gets snug then I feel it not getting any tighter. will this work ?
tony purpura Hmmm I don't know. It sounds like your spark plug hole threads are probably ripped out. This will only fix it if there are some good threads left. Your repair is going to be much more involved than this:(
tony purpura sounds like the threads are chewed up enough that the plug is wallowing in the gallery. You'll most likely have to tap it and helicoil the head
No it won't. Problem is the hole is already losing aluminum and is actually too large for the current plug to fit properly. Use Timesert or Helicoil to fix properly.
+Joey Kimrey He's right. Sounds like you don't have enough metal left to get it torqued down good enough.:(
Where do I find these? Can’t find them anywhere but online!?
You are not going to find these in stores. I put links in the description to different sizes.
The KD tools ones are Made In USA if it matters to you.
How do you put the piston down
Kick start or electric start with the plug out until it's where you want it.
Good video but any die cast moter I have determined junck never had problem with steal heads.
Yea, the aluminum heads are the ones that strip out. Most heads are aluminum on smaller engines these days.
where is this link? cant find anything in the description
All the links are there and working??? I just checked.
I am using a NGK-BKR5EGP what size back TAP do i need
14mm You can get one here: amzn.to/2ig7HkA
What size would you recommend for a 2000 Kawasaki Ninja ZX6R?
If you tell me the spark plug part # I'll tell you which one you need.
Matt's Shop NGK CR9EIX Iridiums
It is a 10 mm. Links in the description. Good luck!
Matt's Shop thanks, unfortunately Amazon doesn't have any anymore. 😭😭😭
They're out?? Hit up eBay! I don't think this one is Made In USA, but here's one.
10mm: ebay.to/2uDuEV8
10mm + 12mm: ebay.to/2miAJ5K He says this one is made by KD Tools. (Should be the same ones I have in the video.)
What size do I need for my 2007 r6 sparkplug hole?
+Brandon luna What are the numbers/letters on the side of one of the spark plugs? I can look it up from that info.
Good video
+Fendt On a farm Thanks!
I'm looking up my bikes spark plug size and it's saying they are 16mm but this tool doesn't seem to come in 16 mm size.
That's a huge spark plug. What model bike is it?
What if only the beginning threads are damaged because of over tightening? Do I start from there or from the bottom?
Yeaa, start from the bottom and make sure it stays tight toward the exit of the hole.
@@MattsShop thanks
Dove è come acquistarlo
thanks bro
You're welcome. Let me know if you run into any problems.
what kind of grease do i need to coat it in ?
Any kind of grease! Whatever you have in the shop. It doesn't matter what kind you use. You just need to make sure to use it!!
What size for a 2001 xr100r
10mm
Matt's Shop thanks
one trick when using a thread tap, dont use grease so that when the metal shavings fall into the motor they wont stick. cuz once your done you crank the motor over a few times with the spark plug removed it will blow the metal shavings out of the hole.
After I tap the whole do I have to a spark plug insert in or can I just put a spark plug
+James Bailey If you use this tool it just "massages" the plug threads back to what they are supposed to be.
No insert needed, jut put the plug back in!
Matt's Shop well hell im buying it thanks can I just tighten it till it kind of is snug
+James Bailey Yea, it only works if you have some threads to bite into though. If you ripped them all out it's no good, but that'd be extreme so yea, snug er down.
Matt's Shop yeah the threads at the top are screwed but there is some at bottom and middle would it still work
+James Bailey Yeah you should be in pretty good shape then. That's exactly what it was made for.
what size spark plug is that
+dion jones The size I was using was an 12mm. It's not the same for everything though.
is a size 12mm for a pitbikr NGK spark plug
dion jones It might be. What bike is it and what are the letters/numbers on the spark plug?
Use a steel insert from a Fix-A- Thread. It's better. Put wheel bearing grease on the tap.
You only want to do that if you ripped all the threads out. I still had near perfect threads. They were just a little messed up in the middle of the hole.
Matt's Shop With that tool, you can't tell if you're adjusting it to the right size. If you adjust it too wide, the plug can come out. A thread chaser would be better if the threads are a little messed up. A tap would be the best tool.
Have you ever used one of these? Trust me! This thing works perfectly better than any of that other stuff. If you have a chance to ever use one you should try it. It just depends if you have enough threads left. This tool massages the threads it doesn't cut anything. You can't really mess up the threads. You just expand it a little at a time and check to see if the plug goes in. If not, just expand it a little more until your plug threads in.
Matt's Shop A steel insert is permanent and is one size. If you tap it too big, the plug can come out. It'll also enlarge the hole and then you need a insert. Aluminum expands when warm.
+Carl Yea, a tap makes it too big. I would never use one. This basically "mushes" the threads back into shape. There's no metal removed so the plug can't get loose.
Went to buy one off the website but theyre unavailable wats the ebay site one
+Stevan McDonald what size do you need??
+Stevan McDonald Use one of the other links. They should work!
Matt's Shop hey man i think its a 10mm one the spark plug that goes in, is a CR7HSA. Standard 140cc Lifan engine the hole is just stripped
Yea, it's a 10mm plug. Here's one on eBay: ebay.to/2hncQHP
What should I do if I don't enough material left in my spark plug hole?
+lander man You shold look up "spark plug timeserts". Are you sure there aren't enough threads left?
Matt's Shop think so but I can send a pic on Twitter
Matt's Shop I tweeted an image to you, my name on Twitter is Liam Thelander
What are they called
+zaine swarts They are called "back taps". I put links in the description where you can order any size you need. The big box stores don't sell them, but they should!
Will this work if my threads are practically gone? Its that stripped
It really depends. If the threads are ripped out, no it won't work well. If they are just cross-threaded where there is enough meat left it is worth a shot.
@@MattsShop Yeah, there's like no threads at all and its all scored up, any suggestions? Like would a tap work?
What type of vehicle are you working on?
@@MattsShop 1995 honda xr80r
You have a couple options:
Try this back-tap (10mm x 1.0 Spark plug threads)
Try a regular tap (10mm x 1.0 Spark plug threads)
Get what's called a Time-Sert thread insert kit. (Have to remove head)(Expensive)
Take the head off and to a machine shop to fix it. (Expensive)
Get a used head off of a parts motor maybe on eBay.(Valve seats might be worn out)(Expensive)
If there is no metal left you don't really have a choice. There might be more metal there than you think though. I'd try the cheaper options first. You can always return the tool if it didn't work for you.
do you know how much the back tap cost?
Trashawn Hayes They're like $25-$30. Check the description. I have links there for all of the sizes you might need.
OK thanks
No problem.
Iron filling can damage the engine
This doesn't cut any metal it just massages the threads back to normal.
Which one for a 2001 Honda xr100r
10mm: amzn.to/2EztgHK
This one comes with 10mm and 12mm. They are the exact same ones I used in this video.
Matt's Shop thanks
No problem!
Matt's Shop which one for a 50cc pitbike sorry I'm a stupid 13 year old lol
Matt's Shop I have a ngk cr7hsa sparkplug
man screw chevy I got 1 spark hole stripped from the factory! Thing was screwed halfway in for 140,000 miles. You can see a ring of rust on the inside and bare aluminum where the spark plug currently threads into. Of course chevy wants a lot of money to fix with no warranty what a joke. I'll give this a try. It's the hardest plug to reach too that's probably why they stripped it to being with.
+infringinator What year what truck? No matter how well somthing is designed you can't prevent all screw ups from at factory.
Yea, it's sad, but true most all dealerships just want your money and won't help you afterwards. Ford, Toyota, any of them would have done that lol
its a 2007 chevy silverado. If the original plug was only in halfway and lasted 140,000 miles I'm not sure it's worth fixing at this point. If the back tap messes up I'm screwed, and a few reviews said the damn thing snapped off and broke into the cylinder head! In a perfect world I could back tap and see what a V8 really feels like lol
+infringinator It probably backed itself out.
I've seen it happen before, just to be fair to Chevy. Just go slow and gradually expand the back tap tool. It will not break off in there if you are patient and go slow it SHOULD fix it.
Let me know how it goes.
no it was nice and tight one side of the cylinder threads they look almost melted, and the other side has threads with a gash in one lol. I really dont know how a factory messes up something like spark plug holes but maybe the guy was checking his phone texts while building mine. I'll decide if I'm going to try repairing. If the old one lasted 140,000 miles maybe it's worth leaving it be.
infringinator That's crazy. Sounds like a lapse in quality control for sure.
dont get too worked up over alum chips this tool in not removing metal
It doesn't remove any metal at all!
Or go to Napa, 3blocks from me, and get your backstop there, no wait.
Backtap
Yea, you never know what they are going to have though.
Okey★★★...
Metal probably still will go in
Nahh, it doesn't cut the metal at all. I was expecting it to, but it didn't at all.
Did not work
The threads might have been too far gone.
I am not going somebody said they can destroy it for me.....I don't like it
OH SHIT, USA MADE?
Yea! The KD tools or NAPA ones are.
yeaa ill just take the head off and tap it bc my threads are basically non existent lmao i can legit put the sparkplug in without even screwing it it the plug just drops in and ngl idk how it got like that
Woah, that's bad
What is the size for a xr80r
10mm
Thanks
No problem