It was your recent video that got me to buy two rolls of PET-CF and finally start printing my hose clamp whale, so I was excited to see My Tech Fun finally has a video on it too
FYI: PETG isn't "PET with glycol added". It's a polymer made similarly to how PET is made, but with the glycol part of the ethylene glycol precursor messed up so that the resulting polymer is irregular and can't line up to crystallize. So PETG is more like PET minus (some of the) glycol plus some other gunk. Not PET plus glycol.
@@genin69 Did you completely not read the comment you replied to? PET is not "PETG with glycol removed". It's with the glycol unadulterated with random shit to mess up the polymerization process. Hopefully this does end up being real PET not some fake, but I haven't found a place to buy it to evaluate yet.
In all of my use with engineering filaments- I'm certain that BLACK colored ones are often noticeably less strong than other colors esp clears or opaques @@MyTechFun
I've just started printing with PET-CF, from both Polymaker and Siraya. It's a wonderful material so far. I look forward to really seeing what it's capable of!
Both are on the way to Mytechfun for the testing (Polymaker and Siraya). And when I finish all separate reviews, there will be compared in one single video (with different testing methods)
Nice work, as always. The large nuts securing the thermocouple have large heat capacity and thermal conductivity. They take longer to heat up, so they could result in low temperature readings.
Doesn't need heated chamber. Really stiff. Impervious to most household chemicals. Doesn't warp. Doesn't smell too bad when printing. What's not to love? I wish we could get PET more easily too. I tend to buy it in large quantities in bulk whenever I can.
@@notyouraveragegoldenpotato The only manufacturer I can readily get hold of in UK is BASF. It's damn expensive at about £32/kg but every so often you can pick it up for
I actually got Pet from BASF at home. It seems like a bad joke. Print temperature is like Petg and even the profile for Bambu lab is named with Petg...
@@j.b.3171 Wdym? I've got a lot of experience with this material (exclusively printed in BASF PET and PET-CF the last two years) so if you have some problems maybe I can help. I don't have a Bambu though so might be more general tips rather than specific
Nice. The price/strength relation of PET-CF seems better than PPA-CF or Nylon-CF especially when looking at the layer adhesion which is usually the weak point and has killed fiber based filaments for me till now. Got a try this one. BTW I have poor experience with PETG-CF It was very strong but lost it's strength after 6 to 9 months of usage (mainly layer adhesion became very poor, probably caused by material fatigue). I hope this will not be the case with this one.
That's interesting! Yeah, changes of properties after some time. Poor Igor if he needs to include that into his analysis... Making a comprehensive analysis for EVERY filament would become an impossible task for a single person! 😬
I have made thousands of parts in petg-cf and have never had layer adhesion issues even long term but I do not load these parts perpendicular to the layer lines so maybe that is your issue.
I thought it was a great comparison comparing to ppa-cf, mechanical properties not quite as impressive but if they are enough for your needs so much cheaper for the additional effort of annealing. Thank you!
I just ordered a kg of Siraya Tech PET-CF for $37.49. According to the video you posted today, the Siraya Tech PET-CF has very similar properties to the Bambu PET-CF at less than half the price.
As always, great video!! I would love to see a video about the polymaker fiberon filaments that are now available in Europe. They seem to have rebranded some filaments into the FIberon (maybe to classify them as consumer engineering materials). I'm already testing the PET-CF and PETG-CF filaments for production, and they seem very promising, especially the PET-CF, since it can be printed relatively fast on a Prusa XL. So far, I had issues with all CF filaments and HF nozzles clogging. Best Fabian
Supposedly one of the "best" engineering materials out lately is Polymaker CoPA CF. Tests conducted on other channels show it to be a stand out performer. I have yet to crack open my test roll.
Igor, I've printed my own home recycled PET filament and it's not hard to print. I would say I used settings similar to your PET-CF with no problems. I wouldn't say it was any harder to print than PETG apart from higher temperature. I would only say it is more hygroscopic. I wish someone sold pure PET,it's a lot better than PETG, IMO. The only issue I had was welding my recycled filament, which is why I gave up eventually.
it might be a silly question but i am curious - do you fully tune your printer to the filaments you test? i am mainly expressing concern over temperature tuning as it has impacts on these tests. the reason i ask is because there is a cut from the default settings & the test objects being printed with no mention of whether it has been properly configured. i also wonder how significant the difference is between default slicer profile & properly configured profile.
Great video. i would like to see pet-cf vs pc-cf since they are both not super expensive compared to other engeneering fillaments. great video as always mtf!
Very interesting! I love your thorough and no nonsense videos! I've recently come to love printing PET, but there aren't a ton of brands that make PET filament, especially cheap PET... It does seem to make great springy parts and clip arms that don't creep as much as other materials I've tried. I wonder how it compares to HTPET+ from fusion filaments though? Mostly when it comes to how much you have to dry it anyway... It's not apples to apples as its not fiber fileld, but I find that the Fusion Filaments PET prints as fast as PLA and doesn't warp at all but, unfortunately, strings like CRAZY if you don't keep it perfectly dry. It also seems to absorb moisture MORE readily than silica gel, so I pretty much just have to keep it in a dryer at all times. Does this stuff suck up moisture like that? I almost feel like the fusion filaments stuff would work better as a desiccant than actual desiccant. The upside is that it only costs $35 a roll.
@@riba2233 Directly from the "Fusion Filaments" website under the "engineering filaments" category. I guess the named it HTPET+ because people kept mixing it up with PETG and they used to make and sell both. I think they usually sell out on a lot of the colors but they do make some nice colors of it.
Very curious to see the results for Siraya Tech PET-CF and PAHT-CF. The prices are very good, and they specifically claim that their PAHT is actually PPA and not PA-12
I've printed half a roll of their PET-CF for printer parts and I really like it, but I also don't have many points of reference (it's replacing 10-year-old PLA)
Did you keep all the printing settings stock? I'm trying my luck with priting BambuLab PET-CF with X1C with little to no luck. I tried priting the benchy with stock settings and edges of the print warp like crazy. Slowing down the print and increasing the temp. didn't really improve much.
From the Bambu Technical Data Sheet (TDS) for PET-CF - "All the test specimens were annealed and dried at 80 °C for 12 h before testing. And the suggested annealing temperature of models printed with Bambu PET-CF is 80 to 140 °C, and the time is 6 to 12 hours."
The temperature resistance without annealing is still good for 90% of applications I would say and if you really need more you can just anneal it. The value for the properties is very good for this PET CF. I am starting to wonder how low warping these engineering materials are. There are some larger build volume printers out there. For example with a Ratrig V Core 4 - 500mm you could actually print PC cases out of these materials, but would a case panel 400mm long print without warping with PET CF or PPA CF?
In my experience, every plastic will warp on large objects if you don't design to counter that warp. Even small shrinkage rates develop over distance and can cause warping. The key is to prevent very long, unbroken sections, add relief points to help. Or decouple the longer extrusions from direct bed contact. If you play with your design you minimize warping, and just have to deal with shrinkage, with is a much easier problem.
@@riba2233 All one offs custom cases are very expensive. If you see InWin limited edition (Z-tower for example) and Singularity Computers cases then a 3d printed case out of PET CF is easily comparable.
@@JOEDHIGGINS Definitely, adjusting the design for the manufacturing technology is key. But having a different design and print orientations for example can lead to weak points due to anisotropic properties (intelayer adhesion), so lower warping materials just give you more play room and you have to make less compromises on aesthetics for example.
@@Dramaican88 Yup, but even PLA shrinks meaningfully over several hundred MM. All plastic does (hell nearly all materials shrink when cooling from 2-300c to room temperature. Over a large part, this becomes significant, and requires design and fabrication considerations, regardless of material. But like I said, there are tons of solutions, and some of them, like corrugation can be easily incorporated. This isn't unique to 3d printing g either. Even CNC machining has to take this into account.
Good analysis! @ My Tech Fun Do you have any hypothesis to why the temp data on the Bambulab site is so off to real world? I can't imagine annealing being a given as usually alot of other problems follow.
You should print from the heated dry box with Bowden tube. Keeps it flexible on the way to extruder. In my opinion, in your shear tests, it looks like you’re not printing hot enough or your part cooling is turning on. You shouldn’t be able to see evidence of filament in the layers You’ve gotta try polymaker’s Fiberon engineering filaments.
@@TheElectronicDilettante Part cooling is fine with PET unless you're running way too cold, and you need it if you don't want heat dense parts to anneal in places during printing (which gives inconsistent shrinkage).
I’m curious if you’ve tried Polymaker’s Fiberon filament line, specifically the PET-CF17. They offer a downloadable filament profile for the Bambu X1, which I used as a baseline for my K1C. It printed well at 300°C, but the infill didn’t seem to reach an ideal temperature. After adjusting temp safety values in the printer.cfg file, I raised the nozzle’s safe temperature to 320°C and printed at 310°C. This change made a huge difference in both print appearance and layer adhesion. I also anneal my parts if I need optimal material performance, but my process differs a bit from what’s typically shown on TH-cam. I’d love to see a comparison between the two manufacturers. I’d even be happy to send over some Fiberon I have on hand if you’re interested in testing it out. Just let me know where to send it! Thanks for all your videos! I’m fairly new to 3D printing, but your channel has quickly become one of my top resources for learning the ins and outs of the hobby. Thanks for the reply! - Jason Burchell
With PPA-CF? In review video I used default settings in BambuStudio. In second video (PPA-CF vs PEEK) I changed the settings, printing at 300C and reduced part cooling, it was better.
4:56 you would make me really happy if you would wear safety glasses in the future. I use them for everything from removing support structures to drilling since i had a close call
@@riba2233 that's kinda obvious. Eg. ABS is notorious for needing an enclosure, but it's also notorious that small parts don't make it in time to warp. PLA and PETG on the other hand don't need an enclosure whatever the part size. So PET-CF absolutely needs an enclosure for big or complex parts?
Petg will absolutely warp if the ambient temp ragerdless of enclosure is too far below it's Tg. But this is still dependant on build plate, glue etc. Petg cf much less so.
If you don't want too much hassle, and your goal is a print that can withstand the temperatures inside your car, PET-CF and PET-GL are the best choice if you have budget open printers.
I have ordered 3 rolls of PET-CF from QIDI just few days ago. For 56€ per 1kg roll, it's an amazing filament. Edit: As for annealing, QIDI's wiki states 90-130°C for 6-8h. I am curious what the difference would be (e.g. 100°C for 2h vs 100°C for 6h vs 130°C for 6h etc., but that's a lot of tests 😅).
@@MyTechFun Yes, I do agree that 2h should be enough for your specimens, though difference between 100°C for 2h and 130°C for 2h could maybe yield some differences, but I honestly have no idea, just theorizing here. 100°C for 2h vs 6h was just me thinking if the core needs to be kept at that temp for certain time, but I don't think it is necessary as long as you hit it evenly for at least few minutes.
Great info. The results of annealing are interesting, the slight loss of stiffness in particular.
Yes. But if I don't need so high temperature, I woudn't anneal it at all.
It was your recent video that got me to buy two rolls of PET-CF and finally start printing my hose clamp whale, so I was excited to see My Tech Fun finally has a video on it too
@@MyTechFun 100%. The unannealed temp resistance is plenty for most applications.
@yakostudios5405 100% will do so!
Just ordered a PET CF roll after seeing your latest vid. Awesome work as usual brother
helping me quite a bit while I fall down the materials rabbit hole
Thank you for the support!
PET-CF is amazing. I use it for parts on my lathe and it works great.
FYI: PETG isn't "PET with glycol added". It's a polymer made similarly to how PET is made, but with the glycol part of the ethylene glycol precursor messed up so that the resulting polymer is irregular and can't line up to crystallize. So PETG is more like PET minus (some of the) glycol plus some other gunk. Not PET plus glycol.
Thanks for the information, i guess that's why it's called Glycol modified xD
Esun has a brand new filament out which is PET. They removed the glycol. Still easy to print and stronger. Excited to try it
@@genin69 Did you completely not read the comment you replied to? PET is not "PETG with glycol removed". It's with the glycol unadulterated with random shit to mess up the polymerization process. Hopefully this does end up being real PET not some fake, but I haven't found a place to buy it to evaluate yet.
Thanks for testing, and looking forward to the ASA-CF
Wow this channel is absolutely fantastic. Thank you so much for sharing these tests and valuable data.
Very cool. Annealing definitely helped, even if it wasn't dramatic in most tests. That added temperature resistance though!
Awesome work! Thank you for your efforts with all your tests! They are super helpful and such a valuable resource to the community!!
thanks, I was waiting for this one and very curious about ASA-CF :)
And after I finish ASA-CF I will have comparison of BambuLab ABS, ABS-GF, ASA, ASA-CF all 4 in black color (with some new testing methods)
@@MyTechFun sounds very interesting, can't wait :)
I love bambus ASA-CF. Printing is easy as PLA on my P1S, and it is AMS compatible. Cant wait for the test.
@@dymel_88 you already got it? Nice!
In all of my use with engineering filaments- I'm certain that BLACK colored ones are often noticeably less strong than other colors esp clears or opaques @@MyTechFun
Thank you for publishing your data, it’s extremely helpful for comparisons
I've just started printing with PET-CF, from both Polymaker and Siraya. It's a wonderful material so far. I look forward to really seeing what it's capable of!
Both are on the way to Mytechfun for the testing (Polymaker and Siraya). And when I finish all separate reviews, there will be compared in one single video (with different testing methods)
@@MyTechFun awesome, can't wait!
@@riba2233 same here
Nice work, as always. The large nuts securing the thermocouple have large heat capacity and thermal conductivity. They take longer to heat up, so they could result in low temperature readings.
Doesn't need heated chamber. Really stiff. Impervious to most household chemicals. Doesn't warp. Doesn't smell too bad when printing. What's not to love? I wish we could get PET more easily too. I tend to buy it in large quantities in bulk whenever I can.
I'd love to do that, where have you had luck sourcing PET?
@@notyouraveragegoldenpotato The only manufacturer I can readily get hold of in UK is BASF. It's damn expensive at about £32/kg but every so often you can pick it up for
I actually got Pet from BASF at home. It seems like a bad joke. Print temperature is like Petg and even the profile for Bambu lab is named with Petg...
@@j.b.3171 Wdym? I've got a lot of experience with this material (exclusively printed in BASF PET and PET-CF the last two years) so if you have some problems maybe I can help. I don't have a Bambu though so might be more general tips rather than specific
@@MrJofArnold The only BASF "PET" without CF I've found is "amorphous PET", i.e. some PETG variant.
As always, excellent testing and visualization of the data. Thank you!
Nice. The price/strength relation of PET-CF seems better than PPA-CF or Nylon-CF especially when looking at the layer adhesion which is usually the weak point and has killed fiber based filaments for me till now. Got a try this one.
BTW I have poor experience with PETG-CF It was very strong but lost it's strength after 6 to 9 months of usage (mainly layer adhesion became very poor, probably caused by material fatigue). I hope this will not be the case with this one.
That's interesting! Yeah, changes of properties after some time. Poor Igor if he needs to include that into his analysis... Making a comprehensive analysis for EVERY filament would become an impossible task for a single person! 😬
I have made thousands of parts in petg-cf and have never had layer adhesion issues even long term but I do not load these parts perpendicular to the layer lines so maybe that is your issue.
Одличан видео, много ми се допадају преформансе филамента уз поређење са PPA-CF поготово што је много јефтинији.
Da, nije puno skuplji od ABS-a napr. ali je mnogo jaci i otporniji na temperaturu.
I thought it was a great comparison comparing to ppa-cf, mechanical properties not quite as impressive but if they are enough for your needs so much cheaper for the additional effort of annealing. Thank you!
I just ordered a kg of Siraya Tech PET-CF for $37.49. According to the video you posted today, the Siraya Tech PET-CF has very similar properties to the Bambu PET-CF at less than half the price.
As always, great video!!
I would love to see a video about the polymaker fiberon filaments that are now available in Europe. They seem to have rebranded some filaments into the FIberon (maybe to classify them as consumer engineering materials). I'm already testing the PET-CF and PETG-CF filaments for production, and they seem very promising, especially the PET-CF, since it can be printed relatively fast on a Prusa XL. So far, I had issues with all CF filaments and HF nozzles clogging.
Best
Fabian
talk about bang for buck, I'm strongly considering getting a spool of pet-cf.
I ❤ your testing and these videos!
Supposedly one of the "best" engineering materials out lately is Polymaker CoPA CF. Tests conducted on other channels show it to be a stand out performer. I have yet to crack open my test roll.
What about creep?
Can you post the link?
Got my channels mixed. It was edgeof3d I wanted to test CoPA.
he tested it and cf and gf variants.
Where? link?
interesting ! seems to strike a good balance of very good characteristics
Very interesting material. I might have to pick up a roll for some projects I have mind. Thanks for the data!
Igor, I've printed my own home recycled PET filament and it's not hard to print. I would say I used settings similar to your PET-CF with no problems. I wouldn't say it was any harder to print than PETG apart from higher temperature. I would only say it is more hygroscopic. I wish someone sold pure PET,it's a lot better than PETG, IMO. The only issue I had was welding my recycled filament, which is why I gave up eventually.
there are pure PET filaments
it might be a silly question but i am curious - do you fully tune your printer to the filaments you test? i am mainly expressing concern over temperature tuning as it has impacts on these tests. the reason i ask is because there is a cut from the default settings & the test objects being printed with no mention of whether it has been properly configured. i also wonder how significant the difference is between default slicer profile & properly configured profile.
Great video. i would like to see pet-cf vs pc-cf since they are both not super expensive compared to other engeneering fillaments. great video as always mtf!
Nice work. It will be interesting (at least for me) to do the mechanical strength test, you usually do on 3d prints with different infill patterns
Thank you for your videos. What do you think is the best material that can bend but not break under high striking forces?
Hard TPU
You are doing a good job. TY.
Very interesting! I love your thorough and no nonsense videos!
I've recently come to love printing PET, but there aren't a ton of brands that make PET filament, especially cheap PET... It does seem to make great springy parts and clip arms that don't creep as much as other materials I've tried.
I wonder how it compares to HTPET+ from fusion filaments though? Mostly when it comes to how much you have to dry it anyway... It's not apples to apples as its not fiber fileld, but I find that the Fusion Filaments PET prints as fast as PLA and doesn't warp at all but, unfortunately, strings like CRAZY if you don't keep it perfectly dry. It also seems to absorb moisture MORE readily than silica gel, so I pretty much just have to keep it in a dryer at all times. Does this stuff suck up moisture like that? I almost feel like the fusion filaments stuff would work better as a desiccant than actual desiccant. The upside is that it only costs $35 a roll.
Whete are you buying that one?
@@riba2233 Directly from the "Fusion Filaments" website under the "engineering filaments" category. I guess the named it HTPET+ because people kept mixing it up with PETG and they used to make and sell both. I think they usually sell out on a lot of the colors but they do make some nice colors of it.
@@DrPersonman Use 4A molecular sieve desiccant instead of silica gel.
PET based filaments are generally really easy to sand and machine. Curious as to how the PPA-CF handles post processing such as sanding/machining.
I feel like annealing should also further improve PET's creep resistance, as it causes the material to be more crystalline in nature.
Love it, want to make a pomodoro one like this
Wow, no need for enclosures makes this one of the best high-temp filaments imo. Any chance you can do a video on PET-GF?
Please please test Qidi PPA-CF (PAHT-CF). I got some to try out and it is INCREDIBLE. Great layer adhesion, great printability and very strong.
Very curious to see the results for Siraya Tech PET-CF and PAHT-CF. The prices are very good, and they specifically claim that their PAHT is actually PPA and not PA-12
I've printed half a roll of their PET-CF for printer parts and I really like it, but I also don't have many points of reference (it's replacing 10-year-old PLA)
Interesting Material!
Did you keep all the printing settings stock? I'm trying my luck with priting BambuLab PET-CF with X1C with little to no luck. I tried priting the benchy with stock settings and edges of the print warp like crazy. Slowing down the print and increasing the temp. didn't really improve much.
Stock settings, engineering plate+ glue stick
From the Bambu Technical Data Sheet (TDS) for PET-CF - "All the test specimens were annealed and dried at 80 °C for 12 h before testing. And the suggested annealing temperature of models printed with Bambu PET-CF is 80 to 140 °C, and the time is 6 to 12 hours."
@@calebihrig2915 FWIW PET will anneal in about 3 seconds if you get it hot enough. Somewhere between 150 and 250.
The temperature resistance without annealing is still good for 90% of applications I would say and if you really need more you can just anneal it. The value for the properties is very good for this PET CF. I am starting to wonder how low warping these engineering materials are. There are some larger build volume printers out there. For example with a Ratrig V Core 4 - 500mm you could actually print PC cases out of these materials, but would a case panel 400mm long print without warping with PET CF or PPA CF?
In my experience, every plastic will warp on large objects if you don't design to counter that warp. Even small shrinkage rates develop over distance and can cause warping. The key is to prevent very long, unbroken sections, add relief points to help. Or decouple the longer extrusions from direct bed contact.
If you play with your design you minimize warping, and just have to deal with shrinkage, with is a much easier problem.
That would be a VERY expensive pc case.
@@riba2233 All one offs custom cases are very expensive. If you see InWin limited edition (Z-tower for example) and Singularity Computers cases then a 3d printed case out of PET CF is easily comparable.
@@JOEDHIGGINS Definitely, adjusting the design for the manufacturing technology is key. But having a different design and print orientations for example can lead to weak points due to anisotropic properties (intelayer adhesion), so lower warping materials just give you more play room and you have to make less compromises on aesthetics for example.
@@Dramaican88 Yup, but even PLA shrinks meaningfully over several hundred MM. All plastic does (hell nearly all materials shrink when cooling from 2-300c to room temperature. Over a large part, this becomes significant, and requires design and fabrication considerations, regardless of material. But like I said, there are tons of solutions, and some of them, like corrugation can be easily incorporated.
This isn't unique to 3d printing g either. Even CNC machining has to take this into account.
Good analysis! @
My Tech Fun Do you have any hypothesis to why the temp data on the Bambulab site is so off to real world? I can't imagine annealing being a given as usually alot of other problems follow.
If you read the tds samples were annealed so yeah, it is that
@@riba2233 Interesting, my limited experience with annealing is that it is a nogo for anything that needs to remain in shape :)
I remember you had a video where you compare all PET filaments . I looked for it but I couldn’t find it
It was PETG. And soon I will compare 10 transparent PETG filaments. th-cam.com/video/WRGQ1MBp30A/w-d-xo.htmlsi=PDgDS6erMU2L-n3S
You should print from the heated dry box with Bowden tube. Keeps it flexible on the way to extruder.
In my opinion, in your shear tests, it looks like you’re not printing hot enough or your part cooling is turning on. You shouldn’t be able to see evidence of filament in the layers
You’ve gotta try polymaker’s Fiberon engineering filaments.
@@TheElectronicDilettante Part cooling is fine with PET unless you're running way too cold, and you need it if you don't want heat dense parts to anneal in places during printing (which gives inconsistent shrinkage).
I’m curious if you’ve tried Polymaker’s Fiberon filament line, specifically the PET-CF17. They offer a downloadable filament profile for the Bambu X1, which I used as a baseline for my K1C. It printed well at 300°C, but the infill didn’t seem to reach an ideal temperature. After adjusting temp safety values in the printer.cfg file, I raised the nozzle’s safe temperature to 320°C and printed at 310°C. This change made a huge difference in both print appearance and layer adhesion. I also anneal my parts if I need optimal material performance, but my process differs a bit from what’s typically shown on TH-cam.
I’d love to see a comparison between the two manufacturers. I’d even be happy to send over some Fiberon I have on hand if you’re interested in testing it out. Just let me know where to send it!
Thanks for all your videos! I’m fairly new to 3D printing, but your channel has quickly become one of my top resources for learning the ins and outs of the hobby. Thanks for the reply!
- Jason Burchell
Would love to see pps-cf tested :)
Soon (from 3 different brands). But I have to finish Plus4 review first.
You should re-try the layer adhesion test with PPA-CF seems little low
With PPA-CF? In review video I used default settings in BambuStudio. In second video (PPA-CF vs PEEK) I changed the settings, printing at 300C and reduced part cooling, it was better.
i think you should do a tier list
4:56 you would make me really happy if you would wear safety glasses in the future. I use them for everything from removing support structures to drilling since i had a close call
Does this material require an enclosure?
Depends on the part size
@@riba2233 that's kinda obvious. Eg. ABS is notorious for needing an enclosure, but it's also notorious that small parts don't make it in time to warp. PLA and PETG on the other hand don't need an enclosure whatever the part size. So PET-CF absolutely needs an enclosure for big or complex parts?
@@KToMmi I would say that it does yeah, it warps more than petg
Petg will absolutely warp if the ambient temp ragerdless of enclosure is too far below it's Tg. But this is still dependant on build plate, glue etc. Petg cf much less so.
@@KToMmi For getting good prints, no. For avoiding lung cancer from CF dust going everywhere, yes.
If you don't want too much hassle, and your goal is a print that can withstand the temperatures inside your car, PET-CF and PET-GL are the best choice if you have budget open printers.
PET Gl? what us gl?
@@warmesuppe Fiber glass
@@ilKamuTube Which brand has it?
@@warmesuppe Phaetus th-cam.com/video/9el8qAkOAjU/w-d-xo.html
@@warmesuppe Phaetus
I have ordered 3 rolls of PET-CF from QIDI just few days ago. For 56€ per 1kg roll, it's an amazing filament.
Edit: As for annealing, QIDI's wiki states 90-130°C for 6-8h. I am curious what the difference would be (e.g. 100°C for 2h vs 100°C for 6h vs 130°C for 6h etc., but that's a lot of tests 😅).
When they write this annealing times, they must predict every object type. Mine are small, 2 hrs are enough for the core to heat up.
@@MyTechFun Yes, I do agree that 2h should be enough for your specimens, though difference between 100°C for 2h and 130°C for 2h could maybe yield some differences, but I honestly have no idea, just theorizing here.
100°C for 2h vs 6h was just me thinking if the core needs to be kept at that temp for certain time, but I don't think it is necessary as long as you hit it evenly for at least few minutes.
Raw PET isn't that hard to print, watch some prints from pet bottles.
@@Kmnri It's delightful to print aside from the need to keep it perfectly dry.
Are you speaking in Intaliano?
no lol
Two hours and 110C is NOT enough for PET-CF. This is a good starting point, but ramp up to at least 120 and if possible 140C for an additional 4hrs
Depend of the object size. For my small test objects, 2 hours are far enough for the core to heat up
Its quite expensive from Bambu, I have used the Copymaster PET G CF which is much less expensive and I have had extremely good results.
2nd?
Interesting, but i can only understand everyother word
Try listening, you can also slow down the vide0 and enable captions
1st