Alternative to Wetsanding 3M's Compounds and pads. Learn the fastest way to glossy. Gelcoat fix.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
- I have many more (300+)videos; before and after boat detailing videos including boat waxing, boat buffing...
Have a question? Comments section will be replied to.
🔆🔆Want to help me make some changes @ 3M? Think about giving them a call and tell them to look at my videos. Give them a piece of your mind. Help me light a fire under their butts.
Phone: 1-866-279-1235 (general marine)
Phone: 1-877-666-2277 (waxes and compounding stuff) 🔆🔆
Anyone can hit a rock with a hammer; getting the rock to look like something that belongs in museums and books... Takes a love of hitting rocks with a purpose and not just the right tools/products.
I use a DeWalt DWP849X
If I'm going for perfection in gelcoat, I don't use a ceramic (unless a very new boat) I prefer the ease, cost and reliability of Fire Glaze by RMP. Make sure you get all the oxidation out of the gelcoat, get a great finish, clean and strip the surface and then apply Fire Glaze.
www.restructur...
(tell them Lee sent you. No discount and I receive nothing but I'd like them to know 😊)
There's a "marine" version but it has the same main ingredient as Fire Glaze, just a different lubricant/carrier solution made to be environment friendly. I find it dries rather fast and as I'm in a hot climate, I use Fire Glaze instead of Restructure Marine Polish. I like their Mirasol spray for all the interior furnishings as well.
For a demo on how I apply this stuff:
• Boat wax, kind of. Fir...
(tell them Lee sent you. No discount and I receive nothing but I'd like them to know 😊)
3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754)
Foam compounding pads 3M (05737-discontinued but awesome)
or (05723-new version 😑)
3M Super-Duty (05954)
3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102)
Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060)
Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard.
I receive no payment for listing these items. I list them because you guys ask and I just thought I would save some time.
Wear protective gear, this stuff can cause cancer and kill you.
If you are a fan of what I do, I don't take money from manufacturing companies or product suppliers.
www.paypal.me/...
Thanks for your time and support.
Lee
To any doubters out there, this method brought my 1999 Malibu Sunsetter VLX back from the dead. What was once a chalky and super faded boat now shines great and gets compliments almost every time we go out.
I love that! Thanks Patrick! Much LUV❤️😊
Do you use the same pad for each step just cleaning in between? I was curious if i should get the yellow wool pad aswell.
Yellow pads are for wax only. I know people try to use a light compound with them but a wool pad works so why ruin a soft wax pad..?
I try to keep one side, the aggressive side and the other the finish side. Depending on what project I'm on, I'll either do a section with a compound and follow up with another before moving on or, I'll do the entire area in one compound and then switch over and hit everything with the lighter compound. Sometimes for the videos, I just focus on one section and I don't move much, to show the whole process in one cut.
As long as you're spurring out your pads when they dry, it really does not matter.
Heavy Cut breaks down past where Perfect-it ex ac starts so even if using the same pad, as long as it's mostly clean, you're good.
Lee
so many dull oxidised boats around, so easy to fix it, why wouldnt you?
Not enough beer? 😅
South Florida checking in.
I'm nearly half way through and I hit the 👍
Thanks brother. Stay cool, I hear it's warm today.
I just commented asking where you’re at, I read in a comment you’re in Seattle. Are you still there? I’m in la grande or and would love to get an app set up with ya. Also interested in your classes. Can this be done with foam pads?
If you have all the time in the world, possibly. Wool pads.
On the youtube channel, in the "about me" section, it has my email.
Another great video displaying proven results by using the right products with the right technique. You are very efficient at your craft. Couple of questions:
1. How many applications do you typically get out of one side of the pad before it's time to flip it over?
2. What product(s) do you use to clean/wash your pads?
1) sometimes 3-4 if I'm not usint too much.
2) time and a Spur tool. I don't wash my pads.
3) thank you for your time and kibdness
Thank you for the reply.
Any time.
If you use super duty compound versus sanding how long will it be before the oxidation comes back after using super duty is it one year six months year and a half and is it sooner than using wet send making maybe sending a better idea for the oxidation not to come back soon
Thanks hope you understand
Regardless of what is used, the goal is to pull the oxidation out. The lasting results rely more on what you use to protect it. I have boats that have come back in 2 years looking great. One boat I compounded 3 years ago that still shines. Maintenance and care are more a factor than anything.
Cheers,
Lee
How do you polish a metallic bass boat with heavy flake in it? Wondering if it’s the same way
It usually is. If however the clear gelcoat has 'crazed' or cracked on the surface, Sanding will be faster in spots. Usually rounded and sharp corners are saved this way with buffing while Sanding can get to 2nd base faster Once there, I would only buff.
There's no rules here, ya try stuff and see. Without seeing, feeling and getting a sense of what's working and what isn't, to help you decide.
Perhaps, if you have time and patience, lots of that... try watching a few more of my videos. Around March of 2022, I think I got into so random boats and gelcoats.
Even clear gelcoat has pores and there's a semi-real limit as to how deep you go because at that point you can't go deeper next time. There's always a next time. The goal is to get your boat to a point that you can go up to 3-5 years without doing it again.
If repainting/regelcoating is in the future, Awlgrip makes one that holds a shine for a long time and can be coated in a great protectant and last even longer. Yesrs and years..
Cross this bridge when you know how much life is in the surface. The only way to find out is to get in there and make her tell you what she responds to.
I have a list of crap I use that you can buy used usually, in the description.
Good luck. I'm here if you get stuck.
Lee
I bought a dewalt because of your videos. Quick connect and double sided pad also.
Thank you for all your great help and direction Lee! Much appreciated 💪
I hope you like them, I really do. Cheers!
My pleasure brother.
I did the same here, everything works as described, TYVM.
I'm happy to help.
which fire glaze product are you using? the site is a bit confusing.
Auto product, "Fire Glaze +"
As a booster to that, in their marine line, the "Mirasol" spray works great.
Thanks
Lee
Been watching your videos for quite a while. Thanks for the no BS content! I did my white/black Crownline 210LS last year with Harbor Freight wool pad and Meguiars heavy cutting compound, got fair results but not great. Working on it again currently with 3M wool pad and Heavy Cut. It's remarkable how much faster, easier, and better it works. The results are night and day better. It was pretty neglected when we got it and looked like it was washed with a 80grit brush. The heavy cut works the deep scratches right out doing your crosscut method. I'll be doing Perfect it and have Fireglaze ordered as well. Keep up the great work and thanks for showing us diy guys how to get it done.
My pleasure. Tell a friend, youtube hates me.
Lee
I refer anyone I see asking about buffing a boat to your channel. Keep up the work and they will come!
Thank you. I appreciate the accolades.
Lee
What would a restoration ballpark cost be for a for a 3207 Carver Aft cabin top and bottom exterior using these techniques?
$1,600-2,200 depends on the oxidation level and the owner's attitude. 😁
@@Local_Boydidgood ty, that's about what I was thinking, it's a big job.
Roughly $45-65 a foot for a basic "used compound to get a shine we all like and lock it in with a protective layer" If there's extreme oxidation and the customer wants the best I can do, I'd be @ close to $90 a foot and if the boat is longer than 65', $120 a foot.
Here's the cool part though, with me at least. If I get that top-tier price and you need a touch up before a year, it's on me. I don't mind putting my money where my mouth is and charging for the work I do.
Most detailers try to get every boat on the water, I want great customers I can chat with, relate to and respect as they respect me. If the respect isn't there, I don't care what they're paying, they can hire the next guy and I'll move on to someone who understands that detailing is like anything. The 1st time is the hardest, for everyone involved and after that, it should be easier, for everyone involved. Sometimes I have to break hearts and speak the truth and charge the moon but I also try to deliver the moon and if I miss a small spot, yelling and screaming do not motivate me to come fix it. Mentioning it calmy while being appreciative of everything else gets me there the next day and I'll go around the boat to look for other mistakes I might catch, that the owner hasn't yet.
I charge somewhere around 2-3 times what others might charge in certain places. I try to make sure the owner doesn't ever feel bad that they paid what I charge and I also offer them this: "If you don't like the work, don't pay me." Confidence, perhaps but a history of not being stiffed plays a part too.
It's dating, just with boats. I'll either be there again or I won't, the customer and I decide that. The money becomes just a thing we don't talk about anymore if I come back or am asked to.
What RPM do you run on & what compound, thank you.
Go slow brother.
I use a DeWalt DWP849X
If I'm going for perfection in gelcoat, I don't use a ceramic (unless a very new boat) I prefer the ease, cost and reliability of Fire Glaze by RMP
www.restructuremarine.com/fireglaze-products-2
(tell them Lee sent you. No discount and I receive nothing but I'd like them to know 😊)
3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754)
Foam compounding pads 3M (05737-discontinued but awesome)
or (05723-new version 😑)
3M Super-Duty (05954)
3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102)
Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060)
Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard.
I receive no payment for listing these items. I list them because you guys ask and I just thought I would save some time.
Wear protective gear, this stuff can cause cancer and kill you.
Great work. Chilled with a beer to watch. Did an on water interior today. I cooked lolz. Thanks Lee. Who gets to compound around those stoopid badges 😂?
Nm realized the badges are coming off and back on. Better than hand polishing around em.
Yanked "em but then... I hate interiors on hot days... 🥵
I agree but re-doing the double-sided tape and getting them straight, yuck.
Great Vid down and dirty with a touch of class
Wait, you found class?! Lol
Hello. What would you wash the boat with first? If you have a video about that I’d love to watch it too. Thanks
Hi.
We'll, wash for what? Maintenance or while compounding?
For working on boats, I use Dawn dish soap and water. A capfull per gallon, an oil stripping spray or window cleaner. White vinagar and water can work as well as isopropyl alcohol.
To maintain a boat, use a soap that states "won't remove wax". Use a soap that leaves behind a coating to help protect your boat. Salt-A-Way is expensive and even if you're on fresh water, awesome stuff to wash a boat with and it leaves behind a protective layer. Mermaid's boat soap, turtle wax car wash soap.. All are kind of the same. Mild but effective and they compliment the "wax" used.
Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood I meant before you buff and polish the boat. Guess that wasn’t clear. Lol. Thank you very much.
Just picked up a 2000 Glastron that’s been sitting for years and stumbled across your videos. I grateful cause people said I would have to wet sand. However some boats in your videos are far worse than this one. Thank you again for your time.
Sure and I'm glad you didn't need to go the Sanding route. I only pre-wash a boat if there's sand or seashells on the decks. If not, the compounding is way more a threat to a surface than dust, mildew or spider poop.
If you want a pre-wash because everyone in the "sell more products" camp says so; go ahead. Use anything soap-based you want. I don't wash more than 1-2 boats a season because they're trashed and I'd waste more time buffing through it than just removing tree sap Ora quarter inch of scum on the waterline (I usually just scrape it with a straight edge when dry and buff off the remainder. Keep watching, you'll see what I mean. I make a point to show what I don't and do wash and why in the videos.
You should be fine. Some heavy Cut, some Perfect-it ex ac and some Meguiar's Flagship should get you there fairly easily. The buffer is expensive but, it's yours now and you can do all sorts of things with it. I carved a bench with a chainsaw and slapped a 7" sanding disk (300 grit) and smoothed out the saw marks in an afternoon. You can clean carpets with one, impress your friends by doing your own car and shower stall/tub (if fiberglass)
The 1st "grind" will have you repeating it next season but it gets better and easier each time. Learn to keep the shine going long after the buffer stopped and you're on your way to actually enjoying your boat, I hope anyway.
My best, sorry for the confusion.
Lee
Great videos! What speeds are you running at? I'm about to start my boat to correct some hurricane damage and oxidation.
You seem to spend more time at higher speeds and flat. Is that generally the case?
Hi. I have close to 20 years at this. Go slower than you want to, the slowest your machine will go and get better, safer results.
Good luck,
Lee
Go slow. Speed kills.
th-cam.com/video/ky-qHYzJlo4/w-d-xo.html
@@Local_Boydidgood slooow it is. Thanks!
This is beyond amazing that he is willing to take the time to make videos to teach us this method that works. I have been waiting to perform this on my boat…I just got it and I can’t see any other way to get this done, that I approve of, except this method he is showing us!
Well, preach on brother! I hope it works for you. Send me the video and you can see it in my "tubers didgoodtoo" Playlist.
I wouldn't say amazing. I was tired of the Drakes of youtube telling people 15 steps to a shiny boat and then saying they needed to buy the products that paid them to say just that.
I preach some products but am not paid to, they just work. I appreciate your kindness.
Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood I will make some videos and send them to you. I know you are humble and are not paid, I wanted to send you a gift just for teaching us and you didn’t even reply, so I know how humble you are. I can’t wait to share the results. My boat is tied up for another month, I am getting a new trailer built but I will make some videos and send them your way. It’s a Yellow and a white and has some oxidation from sitting in the Marina. I already purchased the products. My detail guy wants to do it, but I know I’m very particular and I can’t see him taking the time to really do it right. Some will get a quick shine and move on, you actually cut through all of the oxidation. Thanks!
@@Local_Boydidgood also, I forgot I have Bottom Paint. Is there anything for that or should I have it redone, removed or what?! That’s the only part I’m confused on. I take care of my stuff so I want to cherry out my boat top to bottom. If you have any advice I’d appreciate it!
Tape off the bottom paint so it stays looking good. If you get compound/wax on it, you can use a gentle cleaner to remove it.
My email/number are in my "about me" section of the channel. If you have whatsapp, sending videos that way is usually easy.
I'd appreciate it.
I know what you mean about most detailers. "cleaner wax" ho's.. 😅
Thank you for this video! Do you always complete all 3 steps in a section then go to a new section or did you do it that way for the video. I would have been inclined to complete a step over the entirety of the boat then do the next step, although the way you showed it in the video seems like it would be so much more satisfying.
Hi and thanks. Every boat is different and should be addressed as such. I'm glad you liked the video however this is one out of hundreds I have up. If it isn't being too bold of me to suggest that you spend some time to watch a few more (I know how boring they are, sorry) Get a sense of what to look for in gelcoat and then how to attack it.
If you simply don't know, trust the process. It is best to use only what you need however, some exploratory compounding can't hurt, too much.
The different compounds (except Super-Duty and even it on the right boat) can all be made to get gelcoat to shine, if you have the patience to allow them to work (most people don't, even me)
I use whatever will keep me moving along at a good clip. This means I try to breakdown to ugly quickly, smooth it out and flatten the surface as fast as I can and on some boats, one compound is used and on some, 3 are.
As to going section-to-section or the whole boat.. Again, boats are different so if there's a shine you want to get, sometimes I'll just work one spot till I see what I want and then I have motivation and a target to blend into. The other option on a trashed boat is to yes, do an entire side or the whole boat in 1 product and then follow with the next and so on. On a smaller boat (fits on a trailer) this is easy. On bigger boats, you or rather we, focused on starting and finishing an area before moving on to another with planned routes for making sure we didn't touch those places again after finishing them, until the last wash.
I just show how effective compounding is, that's it. How to attack your boat is entirely on you. Good luck. I'm here for questions.
Lee
Thank you, and maybe there’s something wrong with me, but I don’t find your videos boring at all!
I will go in sections. My boat is not in terrible shape, but I don’t think I’ll be able to get it back to a good shine without taking steps such as the ones you are suggesting. I’ve ordered all the materials you’ve mentioned, and thank you for wishing me luck, because, I’m going to need it!
Remember: this isn't as much a fight with the boat as it's a dance.
The first time you get good results from whatever you're doing, repeat. Walking controlled to get somewhere is better than trying to ride a unicycle and juggle to where you're going when you just learned to do both. Go slow, speed kills. Remember the steps (no matter the compound, they're the same)
You'll be OK. I look forward to hearing how it goes. Let me know if you get stuck.
Lee
Hi Lee, while in storage, we were able to finish all of the smooth surfaces on our boat. it’s a 21 year-old cabin cruiser, has been well taken care of, and using your steps, I feel like it’s in near showroom condition. I smile every time I walk up to it. Additionally, it’s so easy to clean now.
What we did not do is the top and swim platform where there is a bumpy no slip surface.
When we first tried a section, we noticed we were not getting all of the product out. Should we continue to use the steps and directions you’ve given or do you recommend another process for those areas.
I feel like this is a good time to mention that I will reinstate my PayPal so I can compensate you a bit for not only your great video that helped us get where we are, but also for you replying to my earlier questions and this one, too!
Are you asking about the non-skid, holding product?
I'm happy you're happy with what you've done thus far. Thanks for letting me know.
If you're dealing with textured surfaces, applying by hand and removing by hand might be the trick. A buffer wheel likes to skip over stuff and ignore that which lays beneath the plane of the wheel..
Use a buffer to do the work side of things but then use a microfiber rag and some non-skid boat wax (Google it). Apply and remove the wax with the towels but while doing so, put extra effort into wetting up (removing if possible) the stuff, left behind by the buffer and then just remove it all when cleaning up.
Without being there, it's difficult to assess your issue but if I've understood correctly, non-skid is being a jerk.. Be a smarter jerk. 😊
Hope things go well,
Lee
So in this video you use the 3m super duty compound 05954, then the heavy cut compound 36102 & then the ex - ac rubbing compound 36060. All 3 different compounds on top each other?
Keep watching, every boat is different. In person, it generally takes someone 2-3 days to get the feel of things and feel confident.
10 videos is like the 1st half of a day.. the 1st day. I'm happy that you're watching however most people watch my videos for 10-20 hrs before they "get it".
If you just want the quick way, come on out and take a class. If you have the time, keep watching.
Lee
@@Local_Boydidgoodwhy do you need to use 3 different compounds? Instead of using the most aggressive compound and then skip polish and just wax? Or use the highest cut compound 2-3 times to get the oxidization out ?
Well, if I only cared about color and gloss, sure but to achieve a sharp reflection that lasts longer and reach a smooth surface that's easy to maintain, I do what I do.
@@Local_Boydidgoodhow do you use spur tool on white gelcoat without the spur metal staining the white gel coat?
It's never been an issue in my history.
Try letting your pad dry before spuring it. If doing it wet, A) you didn't get that from watching me and B) you're basically trying to compound the spur if the pad is gummed up and wet. That could cause the black color you see. It it transfers to the boat, get a clean pad and re compound that spot.
Good luck