วีดีโอ

Both are options to look into just, one is an easier clean-up than the other. Both can go through the gelcoat. Sanding generally leaves a better finish but not always. I work with what I have. Lee

You're welcome, I don't recall but the part numbers are in the description. Enjoy reading all that. Lee

Hi, I don't. Search my library for "pads"

I always appreciate the thought. There is a bit in the description for the philanthropic in the group but I'm happy to hear about your Gelcoat. Thanks! Lee

Oy Oy Oy! One bottle of each should do however, knowing what shipping can be, buy 4 of each. I know there's a few guys in OZ who'd love to pay you for your importation of products that are rare down under. One of each but, oxidation will return so, perhaps 2 of each. You know it's all about maintenance but gelcoat and the sun are both jerks and will force a replay at some point. Having what you're gonna do need on-deck can't be a bad idea. Plus, we all have that friend who'll see your boat and ask you to do theirs. Tell 'em you'll teach him instead? These videos have put me to sleep, editing them. Relaxing is a polite thing hear, so thank you. Lee

@@Local_Boydidgood hey awesome quick reply and advice ..its just my boat once a year my detailer has passed away so its really become my job now . thanks again enjoy your day

Sorry for you pal. Best of luck.

Happy to hear about you getting a neat boat. There's about 300+ I have posted, videos on gelcoat and I think 4 or 5 on just pachangas. Soap/water, window cleaner, degrease, surface prep, white vinagar in pure water.. I tend to mention the process, sorry if I didn't here but pick any vid I have for more info. I'm almost positive. Lee

Awesome. Thanks 3M! Thanks. Lee

@@Local_Boydidgood Thank you! I'm about to go try this out on my boat. First time detailing.

You'll be fine. Just don't try to force anything to happen, let it happen. The chemicals and wool do all the work. You just hold a buffer. I'm here if you get stuck. Lee

No need to "wash" them. Let them dry and before the next use, spur them out. Search my library for "pads" Enjoy.

All this was fun to hear. I use the softest (slightly textured usually) foam pads I can find for the porter-cable. Shurehold makes them. They're black. Hope that helps! Lee

th-cam.com/video/fP9qf6sJPOA/w-d-xo.html Or th-cam.com/video/M7m3-6FdPaA/w-d-xo.html Or th-cam.com/video/LuPPLBwz1Cc/w-d-xo.html Some things you can buff, some you can't, oh well. If I can't buff it. I normally know and so I'll suggest a gelcoat repair. Answer your question?

Hi glad you are having some success, thanks for saying Hi. I don't always start with or use Super-Duty but it's always 1st, if it's needed. Perfect-it ex ac is actually a powerful compound on its own too however Heavy Cut can pull out some serious scratches from gelcoat and paint but it takes longer than Super-Duty, most times. I used to just use Perfect-it (not ex ac, prior to the new mix) It was all my crew used and we were able to achieve similar results but it took longer to achieve. Then we began to work with Heavy and liked it and saved some time. Finding Super-Duty was also a game changer. It reduced the time (on most gelcoat) it took to remove years of neglect in 1 application compared to 3-4 of Perfect-it or sometimes 2-3 passes with Heavy Cut. As to why the instructions contradict each other : Because, 3M are not boat detailers and don't know their own products. Never read the instructions on any of the boat stuff, they're guessing the whole time. You're right of course and in the last decade or so, you're at least the 80th person to ask about this. I'm not tossing shade for doing so, I fully agree with your thought process, most would. Not 3M... Super-Duty was designed for paint and Heavy Cut was made for gelcoat. If a sanding abrasive was used on paint and then gelcoat, to remove the scratches might require different effort on the two materials and that might be why there's some confusion in the labels. Not in us reading them and getting it wrong but perhaps when they tested Super-Duty back in the 60's, they just stuck with the info their engineers gave them and never saw or don't see a reason to change anything. I've suggested, they don't listen. I've asked if they'll change their instructions on these products and they gave me some long story about how many department heads had to sign off on a change that it'd be faster to just start a new company, seriously. 3M is way to big, slow and ignorant to make things make sense. Gelcoat is less than 6% of their market and they put in that level of effort.. foolishly in my opinion. More people would trust them if they weren't as confusing. I honestly don't know the reasons for the misleading numbers but you would never go Heavy Cut and then follow with Super-Duty. It'd mess up whatever the Heavy Cut did. Find the customer line for 3M in my descriptions and call 'em up. The more of us who point out the confusing info, the better chance that they'll fix it..? Cheers, Lee

I understand your frustration. In no way do I doubt your process, I’ve lived it the past few days and agree with the sequence. My project is not so much oxidation, it’s scratches caused by use of those maroon 3m scratch pad type things. It’s looking really good, and I haven’t even gotten to “perfect it” yet. Thanks for the reply and I’ll continue to watch and learn. Also just ordered some of the Mother’s surface prep to clean before waxing. Thanks again!

Sounds like you've got it pretty well figured out, based on your messages. Glad I could help. Cheers! Lee

Hi, thanks. If I have a place to stay, I'll travel! 😊👍🏼 Or, did you mean like in STRIPES? This is that RV. There's 2 in this town. Cheers🍻 Lee

If you're gumming up, use less or spread it thinner by pushing your boundaries out a bit. I'd prefer it if you just used less, keep it up on an edge while you cross cut and only go flat when you just see a thin film on the surface. Don't feel bad. Everyone experiences this, especially when using a new pad. Spur them a bit before using one fresh from the bag. If you mark one side of the pad, use it for the heavy and the other side for the perfect it. Or, use one side with Heavy Cut, when it gumms up, wipe down that area and see if it's ready for the Perfect-it ex ac. If it is, flip the pad and while you go over that area you just used Heavy Cut on, the gummed up side will dry a bit and seperate some of the fibers,making it easier to spur out later. Or, buy a few pads to always have a fresh one handy. Or, by the time you finish this project, you'll know all you need to avoid it altogether. It all takes some getting used to. I have over 300+ vids you can watch to get a sense of how much product goes how far. Get the rhythm and cadence of the buffer passes and you'll see something that will make you feel better about your work. It's juggling, just 3 things. I can do it but I've seen people who do it blindfolded, on a bicycle, on a cable strung between cliffs. I'm not there yet. Don't you expect to be there either without some learning curve. The videos are boring but I believe that you can see a ton more than I talk about in them. I hope so anyway. I'm happy to hear you trying to get this done. You've got this. Let us know your progress. If you don't use enough, you'll see scratches in the surface swirls and holograms. Or burn the surface (friction). You'll smell it, it sucks. People say "you need the heat from a buffer.." No, no you don't need or really, want heat here if it's avoidable. You'll heat up your area a bit using compounds but it is not an ingredient to its success. Hope this helps. Lee

See, there ya go! Thanks! So on the paint, Fire Glaze and on the SMC, Nufinish2000. We'll see.

Thanks but are you sure, you're not just easily entertained? LoL

Yes... Maybe... Make things shiney! Lol

I suffer the same illness... 😞

I removed the windshield from my boat yesterday and buffed, polished and waxed that too. Turned out really nice.

Nice! That's dedication to the cause.

Hi, thanks. This was just a demo. To answer your question, as long as you don't see a primer or fiberglass weave, you should be good, if there's enough gelcoat to oxidize but retain color, grind away. If it's thin, you'll learn quickly but it's rare for gelcoat to not be able to be brought back. I have about 300+ vids, keep watching to get a good idea of how this goes they are much better at showing the process and the audio doesn't suck so much. Lee

@@Local_Boydidgood Thanks for the reply! watching some of your vids now, a wealth of info, and obviously you've done a ton of boats. Nice of you to share the knowledge.

I appreciate the appreciation, thanks. 'bout to have 20 years in this, figured I'd let folks see the Wetsanding alternative. Lee

By the foot or the job, it's rather organic. My rates are specific to me, my area and how nice the customer is. Boats are by the foot and I hardly ever do RV's.

Hi. I NEVER do interiors of anything. I'm a 1 trick pony. Gelcoat is kind of my home and it's all I show. I rarely if ever show the washing or how I do stuff on vinyl, carpet, glass or anything but the outside, sorry. I try to focus on the parts most people don't know how to do. I've done a few minni-winnies, the gelcoat is thin compared to a boat but recoverable. Heavy Cut should make you happy. If you want more gloss, add Perfect-it ex ac to the mix. I hope you guys have a great trip and get lots of use out of your rig. Oh, a delay of 5 or more vehicles is illegal in most states here, find pull-off areas if needed and everyone will smile and wave as they pass! 😂👍🏼 (Or toss a turbo on that beast and do your own passing!) Thanks for the kind works, hope it helps push people in the right direction. Lee

Thanks, she was a chore for sure.

That one was an hr 20, hope you had snacks!

Yellow pads are for wax only. I know people try to use a light compound with them but a wool pad works so why ruin a soft wax pad..? I try to keep one side, the aggressive side and the other the finish side. Depending on what project I'm on, I'll either do a section with a compound and follow up with another before moving on or, I'll do the entire area in one compound and then switch over and hit everything with the lighter compound. Sometimes for the videos, I just focus on one section and I don't move much, to show the whole process in one cut. As long as you're spurring out your pads when they dry, it really does not matter. Heavy Cut breaks down past where Perfect-it ex ac starts so even if using the same pad, as long as it's mostly clean, you're good. Lee

That's an old video where I just wanted to show how fast this can take place. No finess-it was used. Watch any video of mine longer than 30 minutes and you'll have all the answers you need. Lee

292 at the wheel and 288 ft lbs compared to 256 at the wheel and 277 ft lbs prior. After the 1st tune, I still needed to reposition my 02 sensors. I still have not and thus, not top numbers but an S/C is in the works, someday. Lee Not as much as after adding an S/C or forced air from something like a turbo. It was enough to hold place in traffic lights against the E39 M5 so for a wagon, enough to make me smile daily. I owe Jed of Einhorn, years of my life. The headers allowed the car to play.

@@Local_Boydidgood I’m also running similar power to the wheels in my 540i 4.4 but ported m60 manifold, ported n62b48 throttle body slightly ported cylinder heads on exhaust side, s62 exhaust manifold and 4 inch maf and inlet tubing. Don’t think I’ll ever do the 4.6 swap but definitely regrinded cams and schmiedmann headers to get me to around 330whp.

Nice. I was building this engine specifically to force air. Tore the 4.6 down to the crank and ported and honed the intake, valve job and the goal was to get the s/c on before doing the exhaust but I couldn't wait. The 02 sensors were delayed for the s/c so 2 are in and 2 are just hanging (coded out) I'd get better #'s if I just pretended I wasn't going to s/c and plugged the sensors in the right spots. Swapping in a manual would be the next step. BMW' s sound so good straight piped. Sounds like yours is fun.

@@Local_Boydidgood Yh it is good fun but would love those headers you’ve got and a properly ported head haha, looking into 8hp swapping it instead of manual swapping as 8hp’s can hold stupid power and shift so fast and since mines auto anyway it makes sense, new m cars use the 8hp for a reason 🤷🏼‍♂️

Coding is all that stands in the way.. That and money and time.. LoL Doing all the work on the heads cost me $430. I was very pleased. The exhaust cost me a trip to Cali and some dinners and beers with Jed. There was a bit more to it but his work is, astounding. I don't know why he's so good at this. He's never been trained, he's got a gift. He makes a ton of neat parts for these if you haven't checked out his inventory.

Or Armor All (it's not the same garbage as in the 70's-90's.)Therr are products out now, made for vinyl wraps but anything that blocks UV is a good start, stays flexible and allows for some flex. Most spray detailers for interiors fall into this camp. Some might not be best but I'm mostly guessing as to what else might be good to use. Sorry, I don't typically tell people to wrap a boat so this is not something I'm an expert at. Lee

As always, you’re a wealth of information! Thank you!

I blame the almost 20 years at this. I hope some of it helps someone. Thanks. Lee

Thanks John, tell a friend.

Not going to argue with you there. I've got videos of a ceramic and Fire Glaze lasting 3 years. It's possible but in this case, even if we did that, he'd still have to look at all the repairs and I can't "fix" them. He will save money in the long run and be happier. Believe it or not, that's a motivator for me. I'm not making a dime off of the wrapping. It's his best move unless he wants to get things done correctly and keep that all going. He's a doctor and doesn't have the time so... Wrap it and forget it. I as you've seen, am not opposed to grinding the sexy back into a boat. He won't pay for what it takes and with the repairs looking so bad, what would be the point if through the glossy, all you saw were the mistakes? Again, I'm all about getting to clean pretty gelcoat but there's a point where all that falls aside while the eyesores are gleaming at you from many places. Mostly, for a guy who doesn't do ANYTHING on his boat but drink on it, this is money well spent compared to a decent repair or a respray. Options, options and options. Lee

Wraps can be cool if done right. It's the ones that look like a 6 year old designed it with a combination of dragon Ball z and WWE or something meets slim Jim and monster energy drinks that end up ruining things.

A friend of mine did large breasted women (in bikinis) floating at the waterline on air mattresses. It looked cool but his wife hated being in the boat, he changed it to a slim-Jim monster drink one. Florida is famous for, interesting wraps for sure. I've seen the WWE versions too. That poor fish. Lol. We went with blue, simple and easy. Nothing crazy. To protect it: don't hit stuff, keep it clean and "wet" with either a ppe ceramic or 303, armorall (it's not the old garbage it used to be. It's basically 303 on steroids for less $ A subscriber taught me that) and this can last 10+ years for $3,500. Mathed out, killer deal. I still get the white part to keep our relationship going and he saves a ton of "Dang, I hate seeing that spot and that one and that one. He'll get to just, enjoy the boat, thinking she's the prettiest girl at the dance. I already gave this guy a buffer wheels and instructions. He does nothing but spackle the holes, at night it seems. Sorry, more backstory than you probably wanted. Good question and valid points that you made. This isn't for everyone obviously. Just, you know the ones it's for, we see them all the time. They use duct tape for electrical connections, nothing but silicone to seal, everything with. None of their windows are clean. The horn is just holding on with luck and some good strong wires, wrapped in the wrong tape, through a hole filled with clear silicone to a horn set held together with yellowing epoxy and JB Weld... They try. Most learn and use the right stuff. For that customer, this. 😁😂 Peaces! Lee

I can say with certainty that my wife wouldn't want me putting a wrap with breasts on it on our boat either lol.

Women... Lol

Excellent deduction Watson! Lol. Yup, the wind took the boat and did some stuff.

Just the fire Glaze. If you need more protection, re-apply in 6 months by hand. Hand on, hand off. You can use a soft buffer pad if needed to save your wrists and elbows but a wipe-on-wipe-off should be good. I understand what you're going for but unlike cars of old, adding "layers" to a boat does very little sadly. Now, if you'd used Flagship, another application can't hurt but it doesn't layer up really. It'll find places where it can adhere and it'll be buffed off places where there's already protectives. Hope that helps Lee

@@Local_Boydidgood thanks Lee. This is EXACTLY the kind of feedback I was hoping for. I’m sure I won’t be the only one who benefits from this kind of advice. I can’t believe your channel has such relatively low viewership. I’ve found no other as helpful and responsive to community questions as yours. A virtual cold beer to you sir! I have the port side of the boat still to apply the Fire Glaze (tomorrow afternoon weather permitting), but the entire starboard side, top cap and transom area done to the final Fire Glaze step. It’s coming out phenomenally! Next after the exterior is the interior gelcoat - most likely after Labor Day. Will put up a video when it’s all done.

Inspiring. I'm enjoying a cold one now, thanks and cheers. I'm not sure why youtube hates me.. I'm not on Facebook, Xor anything Google wants me to be a part of. I literally get all my "traction" from people like you and word-of-mouth. I love that. Flashy music and vids are cool, I get that but what I show is raw and the people that absorb it are my kind of people. Thanks for sharing. I hope you have fun and enjoy the results of your labor for a long time to come (or longer than your other boater friends) Tell a friend, that's all I ask. Lee

@@Local_Boydidgood As a follow up to my prior question about adding the Meguiars Flagship over the Fire Glaze, what about in 3 or 4 months 303 Protectant over the FG?

Any spray detailer. As long as there's no carnauba-based ingredients. 303 or literally any spra/wipe stuff is better than nothing. The FG will stop beading up in about a year and a half but it'll still be working. A top off isn't foolishly. I do boats once a year, even if they look great, just a light coat of FG after 20 minutes of compounding (there's always stuff) and a re application of FG and they're usually good for a few seasons. Adding a spray detailer will push that through the 3 year mark. I'm a bit OCD so I'd compound my boat twice a year just because "the detailer's boat" should be looking right at all times. I know FG can last 3-5 years but there's a ton to that length of time and if people won't put in the effort, I understand and just reapply once a year but I can skip most of the compounding so I enjoy that. I charge less, customers like that. It's a win win. Just see how long it lasts with nothing added or reapplied. You now know what to do to get the oxidation out. When it fails, do this all again but knowing more. Now see how long you are able to maintain the shine with spray detailers applied every few months. Lee

Hi, Blue tape won't bleed adhesive lubricants, into the pores of the gelcoat like other tapes will so stick with blue (not frog tape!) As for the film, you're ending too soon. The residue should be very easy to wipe off. With 3 passes of Heavy Cut (for those reading this) you should start with Super-Duty and then Heavy Cut. There's still some passes but you'll get the majority of the crud in one step of Super and 1 step with Heavy Cut. All of this takes practice so if you're happy with the results, great. If not, another pass would be acceptable and par for the course on some boats. Lee

(check this out) th-cam.com/video/h5seC2AOWE0/w-d-xo.html This red boat was sitting in the sun untouched for 20 years.. I think it was as chalky as you might imagine. I didn't rub my fingers on it but that's because I didn't need to. This is typical of all oxidized gelcoat. I showed how Perfect-it ex ac (the finishing compound) works as well as Heavy Cut to get through this stuff. The compounds remove the oxidation fine and there's generally no need to "remove it" before buffing. Thanks Lee

@@Local_Boydidgood That boat turned out excellent. I'm going to try your techniques and I'm sure the finished product will be awesome. Truly appreciate your honest approach to all this.

My pleasure. Good luck. Watch a few more of my videos to get a good idea of how this all goes, on many kinds of gelcoat boats. Lee

Thanks, it seems I don't do too many new ones, sadly. Lee

As always V, thank you for the support and kind words.

I wanted people to see that you don't always need the heavy artillery. Initially I was just going to use Perfect-it ex ac but people had complained about how long it took so, Heavy Cut was aggressive enough and sped things up a bit. Thanks

They aren't as fast or efficient as the 3M stuff so, I won't. Propolis by shurehold is a fine wax as long as you follow the right steps.

See the description, like the video suggested...

Check the description, as suggested in the video...

Happy to hear, thanks. Lee

Thanks RC. I'm glad it works even in Florida. People always ask. LoL Cheers! 🍻 Lee

I know you know about level-r from Starke and Polarshine 45. The world needs a review from you!

I think people would be interested to see what I can do with them compared to what I use. But, if I don't like them, what's the return for me, in buying both and eating up my time and money? Truth be told, I don't care if someone wants to use any reducing compound they want. As long as they use the buffer like I do and make sure to remove the oils from the compound before applying (a designated marine) "wax." I get it would be fun but I'm not here to trash products or be sponsored, I do like to trash "detailers" and scam products though so I do that instead. They use both products you mentioned. Ask them to learn how to use a buffer and then see if they're ready to use 3M stuff. (I hate 3M as an effective company, personally) I'm not trying to be difficult. If I ever find some laying around, I'll ponder a vid. Thanks for the suggestion. Lee

Ok ive been passing on going to look at a ranger tug in Merritt Island Florida because in the pics it looks this bad. Now since finding you I'll go look and consider it if mechanically sound. Thanks for the video I'll be watching more.

The only part that is difficult to maintain on a Ranger is the brill over the lower windshield. For some reason, they fade quite quickly. I'd suggest keeping an eye on it but getting them to shine again isn't a big deal. Lee

Hi. Thanks, I'm in Chelan, WA. Classes are 2-3 days (depending on what's learned or needed and cost $500 per person. By the time you leave, no oxidation you'll see, will scare you away from trying to fix it. I can be reached @ alwayswithacoke@hotmail.com Lee

Hi. The answer to your 1st question: Not really. Every boat is different and while one particular product might spread out and work an area, on a different boat, it'll take less or more product. I'll typically squirt Super-Duty 3 times around a wheel, Heavy Cut twice and Perfect-it ex ac twice but then I adjust my "section" to fit the amount of product the boat will let me work with. These aren't cars and so doing mathematical sections with prescribed amounts of product, isn't really how gelcoat let's you work. Is the pad new or very used? All this will play a role. Hot day or not? Humid day or not? Super oxidized or... Lots of factors and because I can't see what boat or RV you're actually working on, I give guidelines and 300 videos so people can watch a few hours of them and get a sense or a feel, enough to try this for themselves and developed their own program based on how their boat reacts to these processes. I can put it like this: use a product, apply it to your pad. As you're spreading it, there's a point in spreading where you can see uneven or even coverage. Strive for even coverage. (As uniformly as possible) make sure there's the same amount of product, applied to all the section so that the feel of the buffer has the same "resistance" throughout the section as you cross-cut. Moving your body/buffer all at once is better than just moving your arms. Spread your feed and bend you knees. If just starting out, stay there, don't move your feet, just your body/arms/buffer. As your confidence becomes stronger, grow your sections out. In moving your body more than your arms, the finish is benefited by both the movement of your eyes (to see more reflection/oxidation hiding) and to fatigue less in the arms. So, do a spot that's comfortable. I do bigger "sections" than most people, even people I've worked with for years. Stick to a 3'X3' area (not measured but the average throw of a human arm on a boat while buffing) get comfortable there and if you find it too big, reduce it. The compounds only, really work while wet or damp. If they dry, enjoy the scratches. As soon as it's applied (any compound) your job is to treat every molecule in the product applied, the same. They breakdown the same and finish at the same time. If you ignore a corner of your area, you'll see it when you're done and inspecting. This is less of a science and more of an art. The same differences in automotive paint versus gelcoat. Paint takes prescribed steps gelcoat requires you to be smarter than the boat and then dancing with it to achieve results. The foreplay is always different on a boat because they're all different (owner maintenance, environment, previous owners and various neglect issues..environmental variences.. ) All this decides how much you want to use and how far on gelcoat they'll "work" for you. I can't tell you. I have however shown you. Grab a beer and some snacks and every night, fall asleep to one of my longer vids. You'll get it. Or, just get into a boat with the idea, "I'm going to figure this crap out!" Don't let the boat beat you but attack in incriments, don't nuke the boat. If the last spot dried up, use more next time. If it took forever to finish, add less next time. Best answer I can give. I know Drake and Simon and the rest will state" use exactly this much.. " they're idiots. For a car fine but boats are jokers. Hope that helps but I'm assuming, not much. Sorry. Lee

Hi. The green won't hurt your white if you have used your screwdriver. As long as most of the old compound is gone, you're OK. I think a foam pad should be fine but if you are looking for a "Heavy-Cut" Menzerna makes one for boats and they are located in the EU. I would look for that. I use a rotary when smoothing a surface and a random orbital when applying or removing wax. It's all up to you. This isn't the last time you will do this so if it isn't perfect, just try something else the next time. I'm sure you'll like whatever you do. I hope anyway. Thanks for saying Hi. Lee

@@Local_Boydidgood thanks! I will do some tests and report on your channel for EU followers!

Fantastico, lo apprezzo. Buona fortuna fratello mio.

@@Local_Boydidgood italiano perfetto! 🤩

I've been one time. Lovely people and country. Thanks!

Thanks!

They changed the formula from Perfect-it to Perfect-it ex ac. I call it finess-it, I'm wrong in the name, sorry but they don't have it look for "Perfect-it ex ac" that's what you want after Heavy Cut. Lee

I don't envy you and that tevek suit time. Be aggressive in the beginning and go 400-500. Then have some 800 on-deck. You'll love the Dewalt after a HF model. Whit just takes light, lots of it to be honest but it's also very forgiving with swirls. Thanks! Good luck with the Dewalt! Lee

Duuuuuuuuude... This buffer is like a dream come true compared to what I've been dealing with! The power down low RPM is so sweet. I used what I had until now and it did do the job, but I wish I would've just pulled the trigger(no pun intended) on this thing at the start of this project.

Right?! It's a good machine. Let her cool down at a medium rpm if she gets too hot. Let it run for a while upside down with no pad on it (safer). No saltwater ever should get inside but fresh water isn't a problem. Unplug it, squirt with WD-40 and spin it by hand every hour till dry. No rust, good as new (unless the grip electronics get fried) She's a soldier, go conquer! Lee

Right?

You'll find the answer to that question in about 300 videos of mine. Here's what you don't want: that boat to fade out in 3 months and for that owner to not refer you to their friends. If you're new and don't "know" gelcoat, don't guess, use a compound, fix the gelcoat and protect it. That (if done right) should get you noticed. Waxing a boat with a combo/cleaner wax, anyone can do. Won't last or look as good but if you're trying to get a name for yourself.. Read the description, watch as much as you can and come for a class if you still don't get it after a season. Good luck. Know when to say "No." Customers not wanting to pay much is an excuse to half-ass it. Who calls that guy and pays any more? You need to show what you can do and then set your price accordingly. Boating is greatly sponsored by ego. We all want to look good on the water and will pay a little extra for it. Or, use the Perfect-it heavy and it may work well and last a long time. I'd hate to risk it so I don't. Lee

If people aren't pushing so hard, up on an edge, they'll experience less of that. They should have used a steel sleeve and not aluminum, agreed. Not perfect but if not abused, serves a purpose and unless abused, will keep a pad spinning and being able to semi-quickly allow a flip. I also run a normal spindle nut and it's almost always, as fast to flip and never drops a pad on the ground which, to a detailer is one of the most frustrating things in life. Thanks for the comment.