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Hi, thanks. If you have to speed up, try a 3M pad (wool compounding pad) I speed up to show off but it's not something I'd like people to try right out of the gate. It's dangerous and can ruin a surface if not done right. I spread slow as the machine can go and then keeping that speed, I cross-cut and flatten out. Now here, I go full speed (to show the other 2 youtube "experts" that it can be done, swirl-free if done right) You shouldn't have to speed up, friction is not something used for this work, the heat from it that is. If you search my library for "speed" you'll see videos where I compare fast to slow and there's really no noticeable difference in the time taken. Don't go over 1,000 rpm if you can avoid it. 600-800 works, is safe and the finish is easier to get 'right'. Cheers, Lee

I've been a fan for 22 years myself. Thanks!

th-cam.com/video/p79DoZPXKk4/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/eEhxrRJWsNU/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/eBVaBivY3CQ/w-d-xo.html One of the 3 will help. Where a decal was, the gelcoat was protected from abrasive stuff like buffers and waxes.. The exposed parts conversely also dry out and thin a bit over time. Gelcoat is porous and has oils saturating it from new, they dry out and the pores compress a bit over time. Where the decal was will be darker and higher (topographically) because they were protected. Ex Ac is a good compound that can get through a ton of mess but it has limits. That's where Heavy and Super duty come into play. Keep watch'n. There's only about 300+ to go. Lee

@@Local_Boydidgood Lee, thanks for the references. The 2nd and 3rd (especially the 3rd) are what I'm dealing with. Like the 3rd boat, I'm dealing with the shadows left behind black lettering on white gelcoat, and the concept of "burning" the gelcoat underneath is perfect. Thanks for the references! BTW, we've been supporting humanitarian work in Ukraine since the invasion. Our organization has been building small "erector set" homes for those that have had theirs destroyed, medical supplies, etc. In many ways I think we're in WW3.

Proud of you for supporting them (Ukraine). I share some modicum of concern for our collective tomorrows as well my friend. The sun can bleach out most things in white gelcoat. If not, "FSR" (Google it) Cheers!

I'm glad you found what you were looking for! You'll have your boat looking new again in no time. I try to show how not to fight the boat/buffer. The more you watch, the better you can get but once you find your rhythm and cadence, you'll get it. Lee

I guess you could vinyl wrap it after it's sanded smooth or after sanding, repaint it and then use a clear coat to keep it lasting as long as possible? Once things get pitted, there's little I'd be able to do with a buffer, sorry. Lee

Hi, thanks. The yellow pads are used for N car paint when compounding. On gelcoat, they're for removing wax regardless what the manufacturer said. The white wool pads are the backbone of this whole thing. Yes. There's lots of videos. I show everything. Lee

@ Outstanding. Thank you.

Any time

Καλωσόρισμα. Δοκιμάστε αυτό. -Use a 3M wool pad. They are the most aggressive on the market. I do not earn any money by saying this -Be more aggressive when doing the "cross-cut" step. Take more time on an edge with a little more weight or force than before. Go slower in each step to give the compound more time to work before you sit the buffer flat. I do have a passport, I'd love to come help! With me here and your boat there, it is difficult to give you the perfect answer, I'm sorry. th-cam.com/video/3QGSehSF3uo/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared th-cam.com/video/mIdzaRW_e6o/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared th-cam.com/video/NYdQbvlTPmA/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared Here is a video (or a few) of hard grinding on tough gelcoat using all the things I'm talking about. -consider Super-Duty by 3M. Σας ευχαριστώ. Σου εύχομαι καλή τύχη! Lee

@ hello I really do appreciate the fast response..! Would be great to have you here to help out..! I know ow unfortunately this is not possible..! I have the 3m heavy cut and a Meguiars wool pad..I will try the 3m one maybe it will help..! I am watching all of your videos to learn and you really helped out..! Thanks so much again!!🙏🙏

The 3M pad is a monster. The Meguiar’s pad is good for auto (car) paint but it's too soft for gelcoat. Thanks for watching. Please tell a friend! Cheers, Lee

You could always try this before you respray, but the boat needs to be washed and the compound needs to be removed before you go over it with wax. Thr this th-cam.com/video/If4xdMxw3qI/w-d-xo.html

Hi. That's lots of questions and I'd need to know what your boat looks/feels/tastes like to answer most of them. I have 300+ videos, watch a few more and you'll figure it out. If not, we can talk then. Lee

@@Local_Boydidgood Thanks for the quick reply. Did 3M change 06085 to 36060? I Can't find 06085 on Amazon in quarts.

Yes, basically. It's a slightly different mix of chemicals but works the same. I'd say, if you have any oxidation, a bottle of Heavy Cut and a bottle of Perfect-it Ex Ac would be a good start. Get 2 wool pads and 1 soft nylon (yellow) You can use a pad for 3 months or a week, it all depends on the work being done. When to glip/clean? Search my library for "pads" and see a few videos on that. When to do it depends on the load being put upon the pads. I can do a 30' boat and "clean" my pads 4-8 times but then some days, twice. Watch some of my vids. I'm not trying to be dismissive at all, there's more to this than holding the buffer and moving back and forth. I show all kinds of gelcoat and many different approaches to boats. I can't give good advice unless I know a ton more about a boat and even when I'm looking right at one, I get confused or lost sometimes. Boats hate us and all the "wax" companies know it so they mess with our heads too with their stupid marketing. What I show is how to using 4 basic products and some techniques to go with them, can clean up any boat without sanding or paying thousands every year. Hope that helps. When you get started and stuck, I'm here. I reply. Lee

@@Local_Boydidgood Thank you very much.

Any time.

I’m glad you got to enjoy your work. The best part of any boat is how you feel when you’re on the water. That and the feeling when others compliment you. As to beer hindrances, yuck! Cheers! Lee

I muted it to keep the rest of the country from calling you for a detail. Happy to do it. Happy Winter!

I've not. I did however help design the 849x.. There's reasons I still use it. Anything that works for you, works. Lee

th-cam.com/video/DiBRceJ6dIs/w-d-xo.html To answer your 1st question. th-cam.com/video/pAjzP85HYdY/w-d-xo.html More of that.

Beyond that, this video was more of a demo for the process and product. 1st, make sure to remove all the oxidized gelcoat use bright lights and remove the compound residue with a good cleaner to inspect the surface. Then apply your "wax" and keep it clean. Add more "wax" every year, between cleanings, when you're bored...

Thanks.

I used to clean them but now I just buy more and let them get washed and reused by people who need shop towels. Laziness is my excuse. That and I like new towels. When I managed a crew in Seattle, we'd use the rags and then after washing them, our wash crew took them. My wax crew would use a used towel for cleaning up compound but jot removal of wax. For that, a new towel or one that is still soft. There's no right way but simple green is great to clean them. Lee

Wake boats are... Well, they're boats too, I guess. Flagship typically lasts 8 months to a year if applied right. I know lots of folks use lots of stuff but Jascar's stuff was so similar to Nufinish2000 in texture the last times I played with it, application feel when removing and smell, that I just always assumed it was the same product, just with added coloring. That's great that you got it to last. Reading the bottle, it says something about when to reapply it (or it did when I read the label last) in 6 months I recall, after 2 applications initially. I worked at a shop that used Jascar's stuff before I got there on cars and boats. When I left, they used Fire Glaze on both. I think you'll enjoy what it can do. As long as folks clean the boat well before "waxing" most products work longer than advertised so it all comes down to the work put into the finish and then the maintenance of that surface. Not trying start an argument. There's lots of ways to make all this work. I always try new stuff to see what's changed since last time. I'm usually disappointed. Thanks for the comment. Lee

Hi, thanks. Um.. Regardless of the speed you see, please go slow until everything is working perfectly and, you're so good at this, that you can correct mistakes made at speed. th-cam.com/video/ky-qHYzJlo4/w-d-xo.html I'm just showing off when I get full speed. Watching this video, you'll learn that speed in this case, didn't help when using Super-Duty. It made a problem worse. Slow works. My crew never went fast and we killed it season after season. It's dangerous and can hurt the boat. Go slow till you're a pro. Lee

Lee you recently mentioned removing the canvas snaps before compounding. When putting them back you said to use a little 5200. Could you elaborate a little more like should we clean the snap threads and the hole in boat with alcohol? And just how much 5200 also will these snaps easily unscrew in the future. Hopefully I made sense haven’t had my coffee yet. Thanks Lee😊

Hi. Should you try to clean out the holes with alcohol... Yes in a lab, not on the street.. JK. I don't, I don't know anyone that does, clean them before applying a small dot of sealant (3M's 5200 marine adhesive/sealant or similar but NOT SILICONE!!! ) It's just meant to return the snap screw to its original holding strength, not to make it permanent. If you use just enough to cause a small amount to push out at the base of the screw as you're tightening the snap back into place, that's all that's needed. On larger holes, grind away the old surface, clean with a solvent and apply. Let cure for a day before applying any stress to the snaps and you'll be good till you yank them out the next time. None of this is cannon. I'm just relayed what "we, me, I" do. There are better ways I'm sure and cleaning them is an expert choice. Lee

Happy to do it. Thanks.

Hi. I tell people to use their local car wash or if there is a pressure washer around, I might blast some stuff off to play that I care about the trailer. Wipe the hull dry and enjoy. Me personally. If I ran a shop/crew, things would be different. We'd cover the trailer with a tarp before we started. As is, I charge enough per foot for the wash that most of my customers deal with my mess for me. Tactical-laziness in action. I know I should care more but I figure I did the hard part,trailer washing hurts me, on the inside, even if I got it dirty. Honestly, it depends on the trailer's condition when I get it, how much I want to clean up afterwards. Pathetic, I know. But if the trailer is trashed before I got there... Why? (is what I think) Any car wash soap (no harsh stuff, trailers aren't waxed and can react badly to aggressive chemicals) and water with a soft mitt or brush should work. Wax the trailer so stuff comes off easier next time? Glad you're doing your own boat. Hope you like the results. Hope that helps? Lee

Thank Lee you’re the best in the field. I started out watching the snot nosed kid and wasn’t getting the results I was looking for. After following your instructions I’m now getting flawless results. I know this channel takes a lot of time and money to keep it going and would like to thank you for all the hard work it’s really helping people by showing the correct way to do boats.

I truly appreciate that you reached out to say that. One of those "snot-nosed" folks is exactly why I started doing these. I'm happy to know it wasn't wasted. Glad you found a way to enjoy your boat. Lee

Thanks man. I appreciate the kind words. Lee

No. Unless, there's salt lots of seashells, mildew, sand or it's really dirty. The compounding is more abrasive than dirt. Welcome. Lee

If you want to see the gelcoat after compounding, you need to remove the oils and lubrication in the compounds, from the pores of the gelcoat. A wash and good lighting will show you everything in the surface. Try to avoid LED lights. Then, when you're happy with the work, "wax" the boat. By wax, I mean some kind of stuff, made for gelcoat. That product, whatever it may be, will adhere itself to the gelcoat betterand last longer.. Cheers, Lee

It should but make sure there's airflow in the wrapping or you'll get mildew and moisture.

@Local_Boydidgood yes of course thank you, I'm trying to get ahead of the game as I have the time and weather.

2 things escaping most, as Winter approaches. Make the most of your time. Enjoy the break next year. Lee

Hi, glad you took the plunge! Any car wash that leaves behind a protective film, turtle wax has one, Meguiar’s too. Mermaid's boat soap is OK but whatever you use, add "SALT-A-WAY " to the mix and blow your own mind with how well that works. No Dawn dish soap, no oven or toilet cleaners used, no simple green just washes made to NOT strip the wax. Lee

I think it'll be in the description. If it's at the end, either a yellow waxing wool/nylon blend or a soft foam pad. Lee

Close and depending on what kind of oxidation, how bad, do you have or should use Super-Duty. You might try Heavy Cut, Perfect-it ex ac, wash/inspect and then wax. If the oxidation isn't that bad, just Perfect-it ex ac (see previous video to this to see my point) and skip the Heavy Cut. It all depends and that's why I don't have just "one" how-to video, like 300+ to show various steps for various boats. Lee

@@Local_Boydidgood thank you for your time love your videos

Cool. It's nice to hear.

Hi. That's possible. Without being there, I can't say for sure. If the red is low on the boat, you could also have had small blisters you didn't notice before that have now erupted after the top surface got thin enough. Gelcoat is an interesting thing. Sounds like thin gelcoat from what you're saying. New paint, gelcoat or Vinyl wrap time perhaps? Lee

I can and have but I'm no expert on automotive paint. I wouldn't trust me on a car. th-cam.com/video/FMOsf4sSElg/w-d-xo.html Washington State.

Are you telling me or yelling that at me? I did remove stuff. @ 6:11, you're sure to see that.

In the description. Soft, nylin/wool blend. From 3M they're yellow. There's single-sided, double-sided and either threaded or require an adapter to mount on the spindle of your buffer. Just use a soft pad that feels like something you can rub on your cheek and not find it irritating. No kink-shaming here but that's a good test to see if the pad is soft enough. Any soft pad will work about the same. I just use 3M because I'm lazy and have a ton of them.

Go slow. It works just as well and isn't dangerous to the boat or you. Search my library for "speed" there's a few vids that show that slow or fast it works but fast is dangerous unless you're super comfortable with all this, like for years. Lee

@@Local_Boydidgood Thank you nice video

I appreciate the comment. Thanks.

You're welcome. Thanks, I intend to. Lee

Happy to do demos as long as it opens eyes.

Hi. I don't have any (thinking) nope, no "boat wash" vids. Dawn dish soap is great. A soft mitten on your hand, microfiber towels or a deck brush and some water is all that's needed. Make sure to dry the boat prior to waxing. I have a whole video on this black/yellow Cobalt, I'm just lazy and don't want to spend all day editing. I'll get it out shortly though. th-cam.com/video/f-zUT70EkFA/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared I cover a little waxing here. More to come. Lee

Both are options to look into just, one is an easier clean-up than the other. Both can go through the gelcoat. Sanding generally leaves a flatter finish but not always a better one. I work with what I have. I'm also stuck in this character I've played on youtube who hates to sand. I wouldn't get to hear the end of it had I didn't give the wet stuff 1st. 😋 Luck sometimes comes into play. The best option would be to repair the gelcoat but the cost can be in the thousands for something this small. Blending color can be the hardest part. If I can hide it and not charge extra, I'm a 'hero' to a boat customer. We'll, Itshould be that way. In this case, the owner came up and couldn't find where that scratch was. I didn't show him but he was thrilled to see that it didn't need new gelcoat. It felt good, that's enough usually. In reality, for those whom want more insight, I'll say that at some point, sanded or buffed, that spot will need, new gelcoat. Some was removed in a way more than the surrounding gelcoat and in the lifetime of this boat, it'll be sanded or buffed a few times more. That spot will need to be ground out and patched and color matched. Worse than the, all that; is that even a 'perfect' repair will fail eventually. The new gelcoat will have a different oxidative rate to the older gelcoat. It will never be perfect but with anything enjoyed, sometimes it's easy to live with little flaws as long as you can. That's a perfect repair. Anyone sub-perfect and everything is amplified. If I were a great gelcoat repair guy, I'd be rich. I'm good with a buffer and some compound. I like showing it to an audience. I like the stories from viewers and to see their results. If they buff wrong, through the comment section and email I can help fix mistakes. I'd be terrified to 'teach' people via a video, how to repair a scratch. Lots of words there, sorry. Thank you for the chance to say 'em. I appreciate the comment. Cheers! Lee

I've been removing bottom paint on my boat recently. Just doing the sides and transom for now. I'd say it's roughly three coats of black ablative paint. I'm using a combination of chemical stripper and wet sanding. Under the bottom paint, the gelcoat was prepped with an orbital sander. What a mess. But it's working out. Slowly but surely. I'll be happy to not have to mess with wet sanding after this aside from a gelcoat repair or two.

I've been there on my last boat, it sucks. You get covered in the stuff. Cheers to you for not being lazy about it and just adding more paint. I see that a ton.

You're welcome, I don't recall but the part numbers are in the description. Enjoy reading all that. Lee

Hi, I don't. Search my library for "pads"

I always appreciate the thought. There is a bit in the description for the philanthropic in the group but I'm happy to hear about your Gelcoat. Thanks! Lee

Oy Oy Oy! One bottle of each should do however, knowing what shipping can be, buy 4 of each. I know there's a few guys in OZ who'd love to pay you for your importation of products that are rare down under. One of each but, oxidation will return so, perhaps 2 of each. You know it's all about maintenance but gelcoat and the sun are both jerks and will force a replay at some point. Having what you're gonna do need on-deck can't be a bad idea. Plus, we all have that friend who'll see your boat and ask you to do theirs. Tell 'em you'll teach him instead? These videos have put me to sleep, editing them. Relaxing is a polite thing hear, so thank you. Lee

@@Local_Boydidgood hey awesome quick reply and advice ..its just my boat once a year my detailer has passed away so its really become my job now . thanks again enjoy your day

Sorry for you pal. Best of luck.

Happy to hear about you getting a neat boat. There's about 300+ I have posted, videos on gelcoat and I think 4 or 5 on just pachangas. Soap/water, window cleaner, degrease, surface prep, white vinagar in pure water.. I tend to mention the process, sorry if I didn't here but pick any vid I have for more info. I'm almost positive. Lee

Awesome. Thanks 3M! Thanks. Lee

@@Local_Boydidgood Thank you! I'm about to go try this out on my boat. First time detailing.

You'll be fine. Just don't try to force anything to happen, let it happen. The chemicals and wool do all the work. You just hold a buffer. I'm here if you get stuck. Lee

No need to "wash" them. Let them dry and before the next use, spur them out. Search my library for "pads" Enjoy.

All this was fun to hear. I use the softest (slightly textured usually) foam pads I can find for the porter-cable. Shurehold makes them. They're black. Hope that helps! Lee

th-cam.com/video/fP9qf6sJPOA/w-d-xo.html Or th-cam.com/video/M7m3-6FdPaA/w-d-xo.html Or th-cam.com/video/LuPPLBwz1Cc/w-d-xo.html Some things you can buff, some you can't, oh well. If I can't buff it. I normally know and so I'll suggest a gelcoat repair. Answer your question?

Hi glad you are having some success, thanks for saying Hi. I don't always start with or use Super-Duty but it's always 1st, if it's needed. Perfect-it ex ac is actually a powerful compound on its own too however Heavy Cut can pull out some serious scratches from gelcoat and paint but it takes longer than Super-Duty, most times. I used to just use Perfect-it (not ex ac, prior to the new mix) It was all my crew used and we were able to achieve similar results but it took longer to achieve. Then we began to work with Heavy and liked it and saved some time. Finding Super-Duty was also a game changer. It reduced the time (on most gelcoat) it took to remove years of neglect in 1 application compared to 3-4 of Perfect-it or sometimes 2-3 passes with Heavy Cut. As to why the instructions contradict each other : Because, 3M are not boat detailers and don't know their own products. Never read the instructions on any of the boat stuff, they're guessing the whole time. You're right of course and in the last decade or so, you're at least the 80th person to ask about this. I'm not tossing shade for doing so, I fully agree with your thought process, most would. Not 3M... Super-Duty was designed for paint and Heavy Cut was made for gelcoat. If a sanding abrasive was used on paint and then gelcoat, to remove the scratches might require different effort on the two materials and that might be why there's some confusion in the labels. Not in us reading them and getting it wrong but perhaps when they tested Super-Duty back in the 60's, they just stuck with the info their engineers gave them and never saw or don't see a reason to change anything. I've suggested, they don't listen. I've asked if they'll change their instructions on these products and they gave me some long story about how many department heads had to sign off on a change that it'd be faster to just start a new company, seriously. 3M is way to big, slow and ignorant to make things make sense. Gelcoat is less than 6% of their market and they put in that level of effort.. foolishly in my opinion. More people would trust them if they weren't as confusing. I honestly don't know the reasons for the misleading numbers but you would never go Heavy Cut and then follow with Super-Duty. It'd mess up whatever the Heavy Cut did. Find the customer line for 3M in my descriptions and call 'em up. The more of us who point out the confusing info, the better chance that they'll fix it..? Cheers, Lee

I understand your frustration. In no way do I doubt your process, I’ve lived it the past few days and agree with the sequence. My project is not so much oxidation, it’s scratches caused by use of those maroon 3m scratch pad type things. It’s looking really good, and I haven’t even gotten to “perfect it” yet. Thanks for the reply and I’ll continue to watch and learn. Also just ordered some of the Mother’s surface prep to clean before waxing. Thanks again!

Sounds like you've got it pretty well figured out, based on your messages. Glad I could help. Cheers! Lee

Hi, thanks. If I have a place to stay, I'll travel! 😊👍🏼 Or, did you mean like in STRIPES? This is that RV. There's 2 in this town. Cheers🍻 Lee

If you're gumming up, use less or spread it thinner by pushing your boundaries out a bit. I'd prefer it if you just used less, keep it up on an edge while you cross cut and only go flat when you just see a thin film on the surface. Don't feel bad. Everyone experiences this, especially when using a new pad. Spur them a bit before using one fresh from the bag. If you mark one side of the pad, use it for the heavy and the other side for the perfect it. Or, use one side with Heavy Cut, when it gumms up, wipe down that area and see if it's ready for the Perfect-it ex ac. If it is, flip the pad and while you go over that area you just used Heavy Cut on, the gummed up side will dry a bit and seperate some of the fibers,making it easier to spur out later. Or, buy a few pads to always have a fresh one handy. Or, by the time you finish this project, you'll know all you need to avoid it altogether. It all takes some getting used to. I have over 300+ vids you can watch to get a sense of how much product goes how far. Get the rhythm and cadence of the buffer passes and you'll see something that will make you feel better about your work. It's juggling, just 3 things. I can do it but I've seen people who do it blindfolded, on a bicycle, on a cable strung between cliffs. I'm not there yet. Don't you expect to be there either without some learning curve. The videos are boring but I believe that you can see a ton more than I talk about in them. I hope so anyway. I'm happy to hear you trying to get this done. You've got this. Let us know your progress. If you don't use enough, you'll see scratches in the surface swirls and holograms. Or burn the surface (friction). You'll smell it, it sucks. People say "you need the heat from a buffer.." No, no you don't need or really, want heat here if it's avoidable. You'll heat up your area a bit using compounds but it is not an ingredient to its success. Hope this helps. Lee

See, there ya go! Thanks! So on the paint, Fire Glaze and on the SMC, Nufinish2000. We'll see.

Thanks but are you sure, you're not just easily entertained? LoL

Yes... Maybe... Make things shiney! Lol

I suffer the same illness... 😞

I removed the windshield from my boat yesterday and buffed, polished and waxed that too. Turned out really nice.

Nice! That's dedication to the cause.

Hi, thanks. This was just a demo. To answer your question, as long as you don't see a primer or fiberglass weave, you should be good, if there's enough gelcoat to oxidize but retain color, grind away. If it's thin, you'll learn quickly but it's rare for gelcoat to not be able to be brought back. I have about 300+ vids, keep watching to get a good idea of how this goes they are much better at showing the process and the audio doesn't suck so much. Lee

@@Local_Boydidgood Thanks for the reply! watching some of your vids now, a wealth of info, and obviously you've done a ton of boats. Nice of you to share the knowledge.

I appreciate the appreciation, thanks. 'bout to have 20 years in this, figured I'd let folks see the Wetsanding alternative. Lee