Boat Detailing, some of the Gelcoat work. no Wetsanding, just Compounding; much Easier.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
- Long boat vid. At around (12:50) minutes, you'll get everything. I'm hoping you watch the whole thing before asking questions but it's a big ask, I know. This took 6 hours to upload and took a few attempts so I'm happy that it made it to the tubes. There's some music in the background that again, gets me in trouble. Next!
I have many more (300+)videos; before and after boat detailing videos including boat waxing, boat buffing...
Have a question? Comments section will be replied to.
🔆🔆Want to help me make some changes @ 3M? Think about giving them a call and tell them to look at my videos. Give them a piece of your mind. Help me light a fire under their butts.
Phone: 1-866-279-1235 (general marine)
Phone: 1-877-666-2277 (waxes and compounding stuff) 🔆🔆
Anyone can hit a rock with a hammer; getting the rock to look like something that belongs in museums and books... Takes a love of hitting rocks with a purpose and not just the right tools/products.
I use a DeWalt DWP849X
If I'm going for perfection in gelcoat, I don't use a ceramic (unless a very new boat) I prefer the ease, cost and reliability of Fire Glaze by RMP. Make sure you get all the oxidation out of the gelcoat, get a great finish, clean and strip the surface and then apply Fire Glaze.
www.restructur...
(tell them Lee sent you. No discount and I receive nothing but I'd like them to know 😊)
There's a "marine" version but it has the same main ingredient as Fire Glaze, just a different lubricant/carrier solution made to be environment friendly. I find it dries rather fast and as I'm in a hot climate, I use Fire Glaze instead of Restructure Marine Polish. I like their Mirasol spray for all the interior furnishings as well.
For a demo on how I apply this stuff:
• Boat wax, kind of. Fir...
(tell them Lee sent you. No discount and I receive nothing but I'd like them to know 😊)
3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754)
Foam compounding pads 3M (05737-discontinued but awesome)
or (05723-new version 😑)
3M Super-Duty (05954)
3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102)
Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060)
Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard.
I receive no payment for listing these items. I list them because you guys ask and I just thought I would save some time.
Wear protective gear, this stuff can cause cancer and kill you.
If you are a fan of what I do, I don't take money from manufacturing companies or product suppliers.
www.paypal.me/...
Thanks for your time and support.
Lee
Lee!!! You’re going to spoil us!
I’m glad that you have the time to upload videos so frequently especially so long videos!
I’ve run out of elbow grease in my right hand and I’m recovering while watching your videos! Keep going man! 🙏
I hope you are able to get your grease back. I'm showing signs in my right arm.
My candle is burning hotter towards the end. My pleasure. Thanks for the kind words.
The 1st version of this vid was 38 GB so I took this one down to about 9 GB. It still took 6 hrs to upload and 4 attempts before it finally went through successfully.
I don't mind as long as it ends up either helping someone or makes me internet famous (JK) I do them because there's lots of questions and I find that every boat offers a lesson of what can happen or options for how to deal with stuff that might be easier than the old ways.
Lee, I don't think I have watched one of your videos without picking up a nugget or two. I was wondering how I was going to get at my hull that is resting on the bunks and then you post this video and jack the boat up to access hard to reach spots. Awesome!! Thanks for sharing.
It's the little pearls that make the best necklaces. Thanks! Glad I could help.
Unhook it from all connections to the trailer!! Muy importante amigo!
Wow!... unbelievable job..👏.. Hard work that pays off....
I wish I had someone in the Miami area with as much attention to detail and experience as you.
Hi, thanks. There are good detailers everywhere but I admit, sometimes it's hard to find one in a pinch.
Miami is a prime spot for some good boat talent, isn't it? I saw some really good work at FLIBS display boats (sure, they're all new boats but..)
I'd start asking around or you might be the best detailer you can find and so should go grab a buffer and see that it's not that hard to impress yourself and pretty soon, you'll be your own expert.
I have faith in your local resource pool of detailers, you'll find someone who's got an eye and a little heart. I hope however that if you don't find one soon, you'll consider trying this for yourself.
If nothing else, you'll know better for when a bad detailer comes knocking.
Stick with people who only do boats. This isn't a game I find where a person can be great at both. The paint vs. gelcoat worlds look similar but couldn't be further apart. In my opinion, "car detailers" who also touch boats, ruin boat finishes and the same is basically true when a "boat detailer" touches a car. Pick someone who only does boats.
Please remember that no matter who you finally hire, Miami is hot and this is physical work. Consider bringing them some water in an ice bucket and provide shade if you can. It helps. Sometimes, I go above and beyond for "that customer"
Mike Bezos (Jeff's father) used to bring down a cooler of Heineken beer. I'd never let my crew or myself touch them while we were working but we all had affection for that guy and his approachable manner. Even a good detailer is often treated like a peasant on the docks.
Anyway, thanks for the comment, I appreciate the kind words. I wish you luck on any path you take.
Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood thanks for your positive encouraging words.. I own a 07' 23feet Yamaha jet boat and unfortunately the boat has never been waxed. This is a salty boat it's whole life and it was always under a carport. I'm pretty handy and I do all the maintenance and repairs to date on the boat. I've observed a handful of you videos and I don’t doubt that I could probably handle it but then I started thinking on the tools and accessories and I thought it probably wouldn't be worth it. Once it gets closer to off season (Winter), I'll start getting estimates to see if it's worth it.
"Salt-a-way" wash, thoroughly. Heavy Cut, Perfect-it ex ac, flagship by Meguiars, 3 wool pads (white), one soft Nylon/wool (yellow), microfiber towels and a rotary buffer. If all that costs less than a grand, go that route. The bonus is, all that stuff will help the next time too and you can always sell the buffer if you hate this.
I'm a "cash buys a discount" guy. This boat paid me $800 after supplies and expenses and that was me being "nice'. Local shops quoted over $2k for buffing, if Sanding, double that.
I'm a small guy, not super strong and I'm 50.. You can do this, you should do this (IMHO)
Lee
One of the best video of detailing through youtube, thanks for sharing.
Well, thanks.
Thanks again...beautiful as always...looking sharp there deckhand...!!! New haircut...looks good!!!
Gracias mucho. I try to lopp off a few inches a Summer, you know, for the ladies... (lol as if)
Muratic acid is what concrete people use to clean concrete! I tried it and didn’t like it. Sea choice makes a great hull cleaner and so does on -off. Both use the same active ingredient. A little pricey compared to the muratic but works way better( in my opinion).
Interesting, thanks.
Omg LMAO 🤣 you started shaking your head , look Camara ! Filming ! .
But anyway you are committed beautiful job and your a beast Lee, funny how when you have a goatee you look like Billy Bob Thornton , anybody ever say that to you ?
I’m just having fun with you .. keep up the Great work .
Billy Goat Thornton perhaps. I typically keep it short but the new GF wants to see if it can be fun long and you know how that goes. What baby wants, baby gets!
Thanks. I leave most of my mistakes in the vids. I'll show when I do a boat twice after I pull it out in the sun and see how badly I messed up. I think failing is how we learn. If my failures (made some 16 years into this job) can help someone see and correct theirs, cool. Thanks for spotlighting it though, geez lol! 😂👍🏼
Thanks, I appreciate the kind words.
Lee, I wished I lived in Seattle still to have you detail my boat! Your method is beyond superb. If you know of any guys that took your class and offer this service, that you can recommend in Southern Cal, let me know. Until then I’m gonna attempt your method! Thank you for the detailed videos and posting this!
Seattle isn't worth either of us, EVER going back. Lol I'm humbled at your comment and I'm really hoping you just do it yourself. I don't know anyone but there's a few guys that subscribe to this channel who live in that area, they've learned quite a bit from watching. I'm here if you need a hand or a compass bearing. Thanks for watching and saying hi! I'm honored, thank you.
Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood You left the Pacific Northwest too, okay thanks! I am very detailed and meticulous. I’ve probably watched 3hrs of your videos within the last week. I wanted to do it myself even with taking on purchasing the tools, because I know I will take the time to do it right. Thanks a lot and I will be in touch!
Well, I do love the PNW so I just crossed the hill to Chelan. A little hotter and I haven't locked my doors in 2 years, just like when I lived here 17 years ago.
I try to highlight the things that make up the technique no matter what I do or am doing. I'm a small guy and I can do it because I don't fight my buffer. It takes some practice but I think it's fairly easy to learn. Fairly. I have a bunch of videos, most are short but there's a few where I walk through every (almost) step.
Do it, buy the buffer. Dewalt DWP849X, then..
www.restructuremarine.com/fireglaze-products-2
3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754)
3M Super-Duty (05954)
3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102)
Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060)
Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard.
I receive no payment for listing these items. I list them because you guys ask and I just thought I would save some time.
Wear protective gear, this stuff can cause cancer and kill you.
I'll be here.
Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood That’s a lot of information and I know you do this out of you love for the craft and helping others. However, send me an email at tks85@yahoo.com
I definitely want to send you a gift for all of this information you have on here for us to benefit from! Thanks a lot.
I’ve heard of Chelan, I’ve never went that way or Tri Cities or eastern WA, but im a So Cal native. I was in Seattle from 07 - 2012. It’s still my second home, I was part of the Union Local 32 taking care of Commercial Refrigeration at Safeways, Costco, QFC’s and many more. I got some history there, I was living in Lacey, close to Olympia.
I run my own business in HVAC/R and I’m back home in So Cal. Thanks for everything. I will send you feedback when I start the process. I just purchased a 2006 Chaparral 276SSi so it’s pretty big in size but luckily it’s not in bad shape. But your restoration method will make it the way I like it!
I want to thabk you for your offer, I hadn't seen this until today.
If ever in this area, it's a whole different world to Seattle. You don't need to lock your doors, any of them. It's dry and warm in Summer and snowy and calm in the Winter not wet and ugly. I haven't seen a panhandling individual in the 3 years I've been back here. My info is in my "about me" section on my page (youtube) look me up if you ever stumble back around the 206 and take a trip to the 509. It stopped me in my tracks the 1st day I drove past this lake in Winter and saw the beauty and calm. Compared to Seattle, I mean "little Lebanon" that I moved here that month 20+ years ago and I'm very happy to be back.
Lee
As to your offer, the more people you tell about my vids, the happier I'll be. Sprrad the word. Call 3M and demand they pull their collective heads out and get with the program. That would be wonderful and won't dip into your hard earned money. I'm deeply respectful of the opportunity however.
Nice trick with cloth!!!!
It's the little things right?
Your videos are really great. Noticed you going over the registration numbers with your rotary - have been looking for good info on how to compound / polish / wax over vinyl lettering (we have the name and port on the back of our boat and I'm trying to figure out how to restore the gelcoat without having to re-sticker the boat. Any tips on that front (or maybe a video?!) would be awesome. Thanks!
Reality is, if you don't push too hard or spend lots of time on them, they're safe. I mean, any number of my vids will show that unless you're having to deal with decades of neglect, the compound generally leaves the decals alone.
It's like this: ever broken an arm? Your cast is cut off of you with a type of saw that only effects hard objects like the cast but skin wiggles so it doesn't get cut by the cast saw. Decals are rubbery-ish. Most compound wants to deal with a hard surface.
Work your buffer around the decals or mask them off. Yes, it takes hours. Omelets take eggs.
Or remove and re-decal. Etsy or your local print shop can do miracles. Have anything you want on there.
I don't worry about decals unless when I wipe one with a rag, it smears.
This is just my opinion mind you but I'd say just remember that they're there and be nice.
Thanks for the comment and kind words.
Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood Thank you so much for the quick, detailed reply. I've definitely found my favorite detailing channel on TH-cam! Videos and attention to detail are fantastic. The Standard IS The Standard, indeed. All best.
I'm honored, truly. Thank you.
Thee microfibre on the da is genius
It's the little things. They sell microfiber pads for buffers but I get 36 of these for $16 @ Costco. Cheap enough to wash once, use for cleaning and thrown away when nasty. Plus, it's fun to see other detailing folks stand there with their Jaws open, wondering what the hell I'm doing. Ego usually keeps them from asking. Funny.
Thanks!
Lee, I really appreciate you posting all the videos and explaining things in way normies(like me) can understand.
I've started working on a neighbors boat - its a red Monterey, with heavy oxidation from being kept outside. He never took care of it and its taken me 2 days to get the oxidation out. After I applied the Perfect It Ex AC, I gave it a wash but Im not sure what I should do as the final step. In some of your videos you've suggested applying Fire Glaze...other times you suggest the Meguiars Flagship wax. In the comments on a different video you replied to a viewer who was asking about applying a wax over Fire Glaze and you said it wouldn't stick because of the RALG tech and should just touch up with a quick detailer. My questions are: Would you waste your fire glaze on this boat, or just apply wax and call it a day? If someone was paying top dollar for a detail and wanted max protection, what would you do at this step? sorry for long comment. Cheers from MD
Hi. No, on the 1st grind that makes her look like the way you want, you'll want to "feed" the gelcoat with the oils found in a boat wax like Meguiar’s Flagship, Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax w/scotchguard. Next time you grind, go for perfection and then use Fire Glaze and a spray detailer. This is the safest advice I can give people just getting into this.
If you were seasoned a bit and said "I know, I got all the oxidation out" OK, Fire Glaze, try it. But, the Meguires, applied a little thicker than what seems normal, left to soak in a bit before being buffer off, generally saturates the gelcoat to the right level to keep that shine/color for a solid season at least. You can still use a spray detailer (polymer based) to get that to last even longer.
Sorry, long odd answer.
Thanks for the compliment, apologies for any confusion but every boat is different, every boat 🙄 I try to give good general ideas and theories about what's behind what I do and why but realistically, I lack the time or the complex verbiage to fully explain what I've crammed into my head in the last almost 2 decades. I get lazy but my lazy should get most people to happy.
Thanks for the question, the kind words and the trust. It means the world to me to read stuff like this, truly.
Lee
Awesome, perfect work, all the time !!!! No one else can do this like this man !!!!
Hermano, is that a Lake Country Purple Foam Wool Pad on your machine?? Those are the only ones I use on paint and they work really well... Used and wore down about 40 of them on this dang Airplane, and it came out fabulous! One of the neighbors in Newport Shores... :) Will never do an Airplane again... Way, way, too much grinding on concrete hard Imron or some kind of airplane paint..
It's been a New Year, and you are Killing It !!!!
Always nice to hear your all to kind words Fran.
Planes, never done one but I hear their paint is tough, needs to be, hitting bugs and birds @ 100+ mph.
The year is showing signs, never lost hope. You guys are the light.
Lee
Lee, your videos are amazing and your dedication is inspiring. I have a black 05 Cobalt and every year I think its done but the fog comes right back. I’m obviously not spending enough time on the compounding.
Wondering if I can get away with an orbital or do I need to get a rotary? I have always worried about getting swirls with a rotary but your videos are making rethink it. Thanks!
Any real oxidation needs to be ground out. Either with sandpaper or a rotary buffer. Swirls can be removed (if left) with a dual action or random orbital buffer.
Thanks for the support and comment. Hope you get motivated.
Lee
Hi Lee. when switching from super duty to finesse it ex ac are you changing from a white wool pad to a softer yellow wool pad? Or do you just finish through on the white wool pad? I thought I’ve seen you use yellow in previous videos and it took place of the random orbital after using a white pad.
It sounds to me like you're looking for a "one size fits all" approach I have almost 300 videos, you'll see everything but me doing a boat trailer. Different twists per boat per level of oxidation..
I prefer to do all my "work" with a white wool pad. I never go from Super-Duty to Perfect-it ex ac except as a demonstration. Heave cut would be next and as Super-Duty has an actual gritty particle compared to the other two that have gritty-like stuff that breaks down and finishes nicely, by design, use either a separate pad for the Super or clean it well before moving on to the next compound.
You did a 90 second tease on this spider boat way back in November.
That's true. I had all this just sitting on my phone, burning a hole in my storage drive. 'bout time. I never said I did it today. It just killed 2 birds. More free space on my phone and this shows lots of things as answer to some questions I get regularly.
Glad you're paying attention.
I must admit it has taken me several sessions to get all the way through this video, but it is all good stuff.
I’m looking forward to you killing the topsides and saying bad things about the emblems.😂
Oh it's in there (emblem bashing) I don't think I have any video from the top of this one.
I'm working on one like it, so oxidized, having to sand and buff it, so time consuming
Not every one wants to shine sadly. Good luck, stay hydrated!
Hi Lee,
thank you for your quick and comprehensive reply!
I really appreciate your offer to come over, but I'm afraid that I cannot afford it 😀
Since I would like to start working on the boat this month, it would be great to solve this with local products. I followed your advice and did some research at Menzerna. They offer a marine product series (1 Gelcoat Liquid Sanding > 2 Gelcoat Premium One-Step Polish > 3 Gelcoat Premium Gloss > 4 Gelcoat Premium Protection). They have an english website and flyer, maybe you could have a look.. What is your impression? Could possibly be 1 similiar to Super-Duty, 2 similar to Heavy-Cut and 3 similar to ex ac?
Thank you so much for your help!
Best regards,
Marius
(Answers below were deleted..)
Always happy to help. I didn't expect you to pay my travel costs. I'll be in CH this Winter, you're close, a neighbor. I was joking mostly but someday, I'll travel and help people with their boats.
I'm glad Menzerna had options. I'll look tonight, thanks!
Vielen danke!
Yes, the line of Menzerna is similar. I just add, clean the boat with soap and water before applying the protective layer. Be in bright light and look at the boat from many positions. Be positive that you like what you see, then "wax"
You had questions deleted? TH-cam is not cool sometimes. I have heard this from people before. It makes me angry but I don't control their website, sorry.
Lee
www.menzerna.com/boat-care
For anyone interested
Hello sir hope you see me commenting. Is there a video on the tools you use. Such as where you get your pads from. And what orbital buffer you use ?
Hi. If you'll kindly look below each video for a description, basic tools are listed as such:
I use a DeWalt DWP849X
If I'm going for perfection in gelcoat, I don't use a ceramic (unless a very new boat) I prefer the ease, cost and reliability of Fire Glaze by RMP
www.restructuremarine.com/fireglaze-products-2
(tell them Lee sent you. No discount and I receive nothing but I'd like them to know 😊)
3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754)
Foam compounding pads 3M (05737-discontinued but awesome)
or (05723-new version 😑)
3M Super-Duty (05954)
3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102)
Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060)
Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard.
Try Google to locate the above.
Wear protective gear, this stuff can cause cancer and kill you.
Lee
As usual the final product is fantastic. This video is a great reminder why I quit using 3M. The endless run of greasy slick trails and 55 passes over one area and having to wipe down. Never again. Im curious how much time you had into the gelcoat correction for the whole boat. 3M should pay you since you are one of the few that are still committed to the brand and doing videos with it. You do amazing work on colored hulls.
This is one of the most interesting comments I've received in a while.
What would you rather use than 3M? Not being confrontational or not trying to be, I'm curious what product you're using or like better?
I find the 55 passes it my therapy after grinding hard. I see the point you're making but 3 hrs a side roughly. After that though, if the boat gets a little 303 protective spray every 2 months, it lasts for years. The work isn't wasted on the right customers.
I actually haven't found anything faster or more efficient at get ING gelcoat to smooth out. I'm honestly curious.
I do appreciate the compliment however.
Thanks
@@Local_Boydidgood For 20 years I was committed to 3M on my boats. In the last five years I realized the game changed and started researching alternatives. I’ve mostly moved to Starke and Total Boat. Both have better finishing characteristics on fiberglass over 3M. Faster finishing and better passes. One of your recent videos you said 3M was coming for a visit. See what they offer on this video about duration and number of passes required to achieve your standard. Your results were fantastic, but it was painful for me to watch. My arms were tried just watching you. Level R is half the physical effort over 3M. If you aren’t sponsored, Don’t rule out trying some newer products. Remember at some point the world fought over Beta vs VHS. Nether are even a distant memory anymore. Times change, I stayed in the 3M camp way too long. Don’t change your standard because it’s phenomenal, but consider changing the way you get there.
Not sponsored at all and I like Total boat. I'll try some of the new stuff this year.
I'm mostly trying to get people to stop sanding. Talk about sore arms..
I can tell you've "been there" Part of my reason for meeting 3m is just this, what you've said here.
Thank you for your time,
Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood I just used the total boat total buff on my boat and it performed better than I could imagine with a DA machine. I'm not a pro but having the best equipment and materials along with great instructional videos makes for easy success.
Question, do you use the same wool pad through all stages, just use spur to clean off since product has broke down?
Yes, flip, let dry while using the other side and then Spur.
I'm glad it worked out for you. Thanks for confirming that Total Boat is good chit. It means heaps to me.
Lee
Hi Lee, I really appreciate all the great content you post and have learned a ton watching your work, so thank you very much for that.
I have a black 2008 Cobalt 212 that I purchased 2 years ago. It was a boat that lived on Lake Washington in a covered slip at Yarrow Bay marina for most of its life and was a little neglected. I am now using your techniques with 3M products and starting to see a nice shine, however there seems to be some deep oxidation that's not coming out. I just ordered some super duty so will see if that helps. Any suggestions?
Also, I'm planning to use Flagship to seal it. What product do you recommend for periodic maintenance over the flagship ?
Thanks in advance for your help!
Hi. I've probably touched that boat in my past.
Any polymer spray detailer.
I have a few vids on the deep, Cobalt oxidation, it isn't impossible but also not easy. Haul it @ CSR or Seaview and get her on the hard, canal boat yard is my favorite. Then tackle that waterline. Bottom paint isn't a bad idea... (color matched) then you can ignore it forever. If not, it will come back.
Cheers from Chelan,
Ler
Hi Lee, thank you very much for your great videos!
Unfortunately, it is hard to get exactly the 3M products you use in Germany (or Europe at all) and it is quite expensive to order them in the U.S. and ship them here. Due to the high costs, an estimation of the quantities is even more important to me.
I would like to detail a green 1997 Cobalt 253. The boat has been neglected for a few years and has heavy oxidation especially on the top. On the side this is not as bad as in the video.
How many compounding and polishing pads and how much Super-Duty, Perfect-It Heavy Cutting, Perfect-It ex ac and Scotchguard Liquid wax would you recommend me to buy?
Which orbital polisher and foam pads do you use to finish the wax? Do you think I need to buy an orbital polisher with foam pads just to finish the wax or will the DeWalt machine with the polishing pad be also sufficient?
Thank you for your help!
Hi Marius.
You don't need to buy everything I use, I have heard from people that the products are difficult to locate and I know the post fees are insane.
I will answer your questions and then we can talk about alternatives and options.
One bottle of each product should be sufficient.
One (good) wool pad for the compounding. 2 would be ideal, one for the hard compounding and one for the finishing.
2-4 foam pads for the wax removal and application with a random orbital machine.
Now, in your situation, let's try to get this list smaller and more local. 1st, my passport is current and I enjoy Deutschland very much (8 visits in the last 14 years 😁🍻) Just a more expensive however more fun option? 😂
Or, just use any VERY aggressive compound you can obtain. 3M is great but there are options locally I have to believe.
You could use an abrasive disk (sanding paper) there are many videos showing this and I know that sandpaper is available near you, it works well. I don't show it because I'm trying to teach a new (old really) just not common way to remove oxidation. It does work (sanding) but is dirty and takes a while. On your boat, it would be best by hand or with a soft foam behind the paper for all the round, curved surfaces on your boat. P800 and P1000 are all you will need. This can eliminate the Super-Duty step and possibly the Heavy Cut step as well.
Now, search for a compound that reduces, gets more and more fine (smaller particles) as it is used on a surface, locally.
Menzerna is a German company I think. contact them and ask what is the most aggressive product they offer. It may take more time in use however, it can work (people use it on boats)
(Wax, polish, sealant, protective products) can be applied by hand, they have for decades. They can also be removed by hand. Use one made for gelcoat, (not auto/paint)
I am trying to get 3M to open their products to more places however they are big and slow.
If you're willing to make a video for them, in Deutsche, I might be able to talk with them and convince them to send you a whole kit. This would take time and ai make no promises but I will try. If Customs (immigration control) are also willing to allow me, I would be happy to visit and help for a few days.
Ask more questions if you have them. I'll try to help as I can.
My best,
Lee
Amazing video! How many hours will you have into it with both of you working on it?
14-20 total hours I'd guess but they're fun hours, no stressing. 12 hours should be average on a boat this bad, if I'm not wasting time with a camera.
Thanks!
Which is more aggressive? Super duty or heavy cut? Is it necessary to do both?
Every boat is different.
Super-Duty is basically sand and diesel mud but if used correctly on an agreeable boat, you can get a swirl-free finish (although not typically)
Heavy Cut takes down the sharpness of the micro scratches and diminishing molecules in the stuff can finish to "new" if done right.
The final step is the Perfect-it ex ac which takes a nice finish and doubles the gloss.
"Have to" is a subjective term. If this is your 1st attempt, use them all and get an amaxing looking boat. Being lazy still gets you a shiny boat.
All is easier than sandibg so, your call.
Lee
Lee I have just started watching your videos and you are the best I have seen. I have a question about whether I can start with the 3m heavy cut or if I should start with wet sanding. I have a 1988 Glastron Carlson CVX16 with blue metal flake that is beyond oxidized. After a thorough cleaning the surface is grainy, almost like 60 grit sandpaper. I tried the heavy cut and it turned the wool black and loaded it up in just a few moments. I then tried 800, 1000 and 2000 in a small area and it smoothed it out and was able to cut, buff and polish to a pretty good shine. It still didn’t bring it back to the original color. I may have to accept that the uv has faded the deck and just settle for a good shine. So my question is since it is a small boat and topside is not all flake do I sand then buff or just keep after it with the compound until I get the surface smooth? The non flake part will be compounded only. Also, do you think I can get back to the darker blue that was original or is the best I can do is a shiny, somewhat lighter color blue? I would appreciate your input. Steve
Hi. Glad you found them. I freely admit that some boats need sandpaper. If that works, great. If it's all that works like you said, awesome. The compound should be enough to smooth it all down.
On color.. It all depends on how thick the gelcoat is. The good news is that if you get a shine, it still looks better than your buddy's boat right? Easier to clean and enjoy? If the color is faded, without being there to see it for myself, I don't know. Is there a spot you can test that if you go through, you can just put a decal or a foam deck piece there to cover it?
You can always repaint or vinyl wrap the areas too far gone for your tastes.
I don't do (restore) too many boats with flake. The newer ones typically just buff right out but if it's "crazed" on the surface, it's more dirt than gelcoat.
Sounds like you have a good eye on it. I wish you luck. Thanks for hang'n out!
Lee
Lee, thanks much for the advice. Since it’s a relatively small area to sand I guess I will sand especially given the way the pad loads up without sanding. I will look for a spot to be more aggressive with the sanding and compounding to see if it helps with the fading. Is there a specific wax you recommend for bringing out color. I have 303 and a variety of Meguiar’s products already
Meguiar's Flagship liquid wax is good. Let it sit rather thickly, over night (trust me) picture placing a drop of motor oil on a phone book and letting it sit for a while; that oil penetrates and gets all the way to the "L" s before drying up. You want the oils to fill the gelcoat to transmit that color to the surface.
That's my 2 cents anyway
Do i need to wet sand heavy oxidation?
If compounding doesn't work, perhaps. Compound usually works.
Compound multiple steps would do the trick Iv watched your videos, I’m about to get a few compounds and a sealant polish for my business
The boat I’m trying to complete has dock rash/scuffs like crazy it looks wrecked. I think I’ll have to sand that part off. I want the compound to remove the oxidation
Cool. Hopefully I was effective at showing some of the tricks.
Good luck!
Try acetone 1st. Most of the marks might come off.