first off thank you for answering all my questions. this is my first build. with the new intake manifold what should i do with all the preexisting electrical lines from the bottom of my old intake manifold?
Your videos are great! They have help me figure out pretty much everything since I don't know crap about fiats and have a steep learning curve since I both a 77. Question where did you purchase all your hardware for the build i.e the bolts? Im sure you have answered this question a thousand times.
These videos are great. Couple of questions. I have a 1978 and I bought the exact same carb and intake. I'm curious-as you mentioned in the video, they say these carbs don't need to return fuel. What would happen if I simply left the brass plug in and didn't run fuel via the white nozzle? Also, did you have to replace the old mech pump with an electric fuel pump for it to work? Lastly, what happened with all of the vacuum lines you took out? Vick said you have to remove them at their point of origin. Did you have to plug them? Thanks!
I believe with a mech pump the fuel return is required. It can run higher pressure in the upper RPM. This car is running an electric fuel pump. Use the Wix 33040 fuel filter it has a built in return line. The vacuum lines are all removed with the old manifold. Only line left to plug is the water line from the heater core side of the motor. It has a T fitting. One line ran to the side of the old carb.
Hey man thanks to your videos my 1979 build has been much easier so THANK YOU. I do have a question regarding the charcoal canister. I have installed a new 32/36 weber carb and the single plane intake from Vicks, Today I connected the fuel supply coming from the pump to the fuel filter and then filter to the carb. Another small fuel hose comes out from or under the firewall and has a small check valve which I believe is the fuel return and this can connect to the new fuel filter that has a return port. Now....the charcoal canister has a hose on top and one underneath and I'm not sure what to do with these? I'd like to keep it in the system but not sure how to connect this back in with the new parts I have installed.
Fuel and return line come out of the firewall. The hose going into the canister is the fuel tank vent line. The tank has to vent in order to fill at the gas pump. The line on top is part of the emissions and runs to the air filter to burn off some of the vent gas. I tucked the top hose back behind the canister and let it vent into the atmosphere. On the 80 there was a 3 way bung where I plugged it into.
@@ELDESTBuilds thanks for helping...that just leaves one hose in question. At the bottom of my cannister I have two hoses, one is as you mentioned the fuel tank vent line but I'm left with more hose from the bottom of the cannister that I think went to a part on the old manifold. Should I plug this hose or let it breath?
At the beginning of the video you attached a hose to the back of the manifold, you said for the brake booster. My old manifold did not have that. Not sure what that is and I don’t know what to do about the new once since it is just a hole in the manifold currently.
There should be a a hose fitting on thee old manifold where thr hose from the brake booster was attached. There's a small part where I hook it up here. th-cam.com/video/nOsfRf1U6YM/w-d-xo.html Send me an email eldestbuilds@gmail.com with pix of the old manifold, I'll see can I find it.
What Weber carburetor did you use? Where did you get the hot wire for the electric choke if it has one? About to do first ever Carb/intake installation.
As always, great video…so, you replaced the intake manifold which eliminates the EGR admission port, right? And the new gasket also does not have it…but I can see the hole in the block on the video…does this need to be somehow plugged?
The hole in the front of the head is a cross over port to the exhaust side. With the vickauto.com header installed the port can remain open. It doesn't go anywhere else in the head. If you're running the stock exhaust manifold a cover plate is necessary to close the exhaust side.
Mmm…interesting, when I called Vick they didn’t mention any of this…even after I mentioned “the need for any plugged ports”….maybe it can be left open?
With stock exhaust manifold there is a pipe that runs to the port. Pull it and plug both holes with a fitting and it will be fine. Here's a link to a Facebook wite up with pictures. facebook.com/groups/Fiat124SpiderClassic/permalink/1546198168874346/
I am interested in doing a similar conversion on my 1800 engine but on the Vick auto website it shows the new Carb being for a 2000 engine. Is yours a 2000 and would it work on mine in your experience?
The passageway between intake and exhaust is a crossover. If you install a header the passageway may remain open. If the stock exhaust remains. The pipe that feeds the passageway can be removed and plugged at the source or a block off plate can be used on the intake side. See here th-cam.com/video/cUNhUayT8OU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Jo8CoRLn0_7MLiSq
At the end where you were seeing if you could full throttle 16:53 , did it end up being fine? Or did you have to tweak the throttle cable to allow it to open more?
Yes, the hose comes off the water pipe going to the heater core on the firewall, distributor side. There is a tee that runs behind the motor that fed the manifold side. That hose needs to be blocked/ plugged.
@@ELDESTBuilds ok thank you. How did you plug that hose? Also at about 22:10 in the newer video you linked me, what you refer to as the elephant hose, the thing it connects to that kinda looks like a mini turbo, mine doesn’t have a hose coming off, seems like someone just removed it. What is it for?
Plugged it withe a bolt shoved inside and a hose clamp. The big hose connects to the engine breather, mini turbo thing. It's an engine gas/oil separator, to vent engine pressure. The hose usually connects to the air cleaner to be rebirth in combustion again. I ran a K&N filter off it and let it vent to atmosphere. Some hook a hose to it and aim it towards the ground. Definitely hook the hose up before you put the manifold on otherwise it's a pain. 7/8 ID fuel line will fit
@@ELDESTBuilds ok cool thanks for the help. I’ll be sure to do those things. Taking off that manifold was such a pain, took forever. Not looking forward to trying to bolt the new one up haha.
Sure, you can do it in any order. The carb kit came with an air cleaner and the linkage adapter. There's a bit of fitment on the rod from carb to accelerator assembly, some minor bending to get it right. If you swap the manifold, there's a water line to block off from the pipe, below the distributor.
Bud, 124s that aren't originally California cars usually have the 4 into 2 exhaust manifold - no need to replace that with a header unless you are really increasing flow (like dual carbs and hotter cams). California cars had a 4 into 1 manifold that does not allow sufficient flow for the single plane intake and decent carb. If you already have a 4-2 manifold, the next step I'd recommend is to replace the catalytic converter with a modern unit (most people think a 'test pipe' is better than a new cat, but it is actually slightly worse for performance, besides making your car stink - and they cost about the same anyway.
first off thank you for answering all my questions. this is my first build. with the new intake manifold what should i do with all the preexisting electrical lines from the bottom of my old intake manifold?
Those go to different smog sensors that won't be needed. You can fold then up and zip tie them out if the way
Your videos are great! They have help me figure out pretty much everything since I don't know crap about fiats and have a steep learning curve since I both a 77. Question where did you purchase all your hardware for the build i.e the bolts? Im sure you have answered this question a thousand times.
Boltdepot.com
Go to the community tab. I will put a copy of the order sheet
These videos are great. Couple of questions. I have a 1978 and I bought the exact same carb and intake. I'm curious-as you mentioned in the video, they say these carbs don't need to return fuel. What would happen if I simply left the brass plug in and didn't run fuel via the white nozzle? Also, did you have to replace the old mech pump with an electric fuel pump for it to work? Lastly, what happened with all of the vacuum lines you took out? Vick said you have to remove them at their point of origin. Did you have to plug them? Thanks!
I believe with a mech pump the fuel return is required. It can run higher pressure in the upper RPM. This car is running an electric fuel pump. Use the Wix 33040 fuel filter it has a built in return line. The vacuum lines are all removed with the old manifold. Only line left to plug is the water line from the heater core side of the motor. It has a T fitting. One line ran to the side of the old carb.
I just love carburetors!
Thanks
Hey man thanks to your videos my 1979 build has been much easier so THANK YOU. I do have a question regarding the charcoal canister. I have installed a new 32/36 weber carb and the single plane intake from Vicks, Today I connected the fuel supply coming from the pump to the fuel filter and then filter to the carb. Another small fuel hose comes out from or under the firewall and has a small check valve which I believe is the fuel return and this can connect to the new fuel filter that has a return port. Now....the charcoal canister has a hose on top and one underneath and I'm not sure what to do with these? I'd like to keep it in the system but not sure how to connect this back in with the new parts I have installed.
Fuel and return line come out of the firewall.
The hose going into the canister is the fuel tank vent line. The tank has to vent in order to fill at the gas pump. The line on top is part of the emissions and runs to the air filter to burn off some of the vent gas. I tucked the top hose back behind the canister and let it vent into the atmosphere. On the 80 there was a 3 way bung where I plugged it into.
@@ELDESTBuilds thanks for helping...that just leaves one hose in question. At the bottom of my cannister I have two hoses, one is as you mentioned the fuel tank vent line but I'm left with more hose from the bottom of the cannister that I think went to a part on the old manifold. Should I plug this hose or let it breath?
Let those breathe, the fuel tank has to vent
At the beginning of the video you attached a hose to the back of the manifold, you said for the brake booster. My old manifold did not have that. Not sure what that is and I don’t know what to do about the new once since it is just a hole in the manifold currently.
There should be a a hose fitting on thee old manifold where thr hose from the brake booster was attached. There's a small part where I hook it up here.
th-cam.com/video/nOsfRf1U6YM/w-d-xo.html
Send me an email eldestbuilds@gmail.com with pix of the old manifold, I'll see can I find it.
What Weber carburetor did you use? Where did you get the hot wire for the electric choke if it has one? About to do first ever Carb/intake installation.
weber 32/36 DFAV from Vicks. Hot wire was already there for the stock carb.
As always, great video…so, you replaced the intake manifold which eliminates the EGR admission port, right? And the new gasket also does not have it…but I can see the hole in the block on the video…does this need to be somehow plugged?
The hole in the front of the head is a cross over port to the exhaust side. With the vickauto.com header installed the port can remain open. It doesn't go anywhere else in the head. If you're running the stock exhaust manifold a cover plate is necessary to close the exhaust side.
Mmm…interesting, when I called Vick they didn’t mention any of this…even after I mentioned “the need for any plugged ports”….maybe it can be left open?
With stock exhaust manifold there is a pipe that runs to the port. Pull it and plug both holes with a fitting and it will be fine. Here's a link to a Facebook wite up with pictures.
facebook.com/groups/Fiat124SpiderClassic/permalink/1546198168874346/
Thanks…that was helpful…I guess my PO took care of the passenger’s side stuff…none of it in place :-). Just got to work on the driver’s now.
Halfway there
I am interested in doing a similar conversion on my 1800 engine but on the Vick auto website it shows the new Carb being for a 2000 engine. Is yours a 2000 and would it work on mine in your experience?
If you run a header and a larger exhaust than stock you should be fine. Call Matt at Vicks, he's the expert.
Whats did you do with the hole for the old exhaust refeed ?
The passageway between intake and exhaust is a crossover. If you install a header the passageway may remain open. If the stock exhaust remains. The pipe that feeds the passageway can be removed and plugged at the source or a block off plate can be used on the intake side.
See here
th-cam.com/video/cUNhUayT8OU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Jo8CoRLn0_7MLiSq
At the end where you were seeing if you could full throttle 16:53 , did it end up being fine? Or did you have to tweak the throttle cable to allow it to open more?
It was good, see here about minute 9
th-cam.com/video/t6XwiL5ZOVA/w-d-xo.html
@@ELDESTBuilds thank you
Welcome, enjoy your build
Hi.. can you please tell me what Accelerator cable you used? I assume you got it from Vicks.. Any help is appreciated.
This is using the factory original cable but I'm sure Matt over at Vick Auto can help you out if you need a new one.
how did you get the brake booster hose back onto the connector? heat?
Heat gun and a glove
There was like a coolant line or something on the end of the old manifold but on the new one it just blocks it. Is this fine?
Yes, the hose comes off the water pipe going to the heater core on the firewall, distributor side. There is a tee that runs behind the motor that fed the manifold side. That hose needs to be blocked/ plugged.
See here about 14:30 I talk about the hose.
th-cam.com/video/jd1TIZaqfxg/w-d-xo.html
@@ELDESTBuilds ok thank you. How did you plug that hose? Also at about 22:10 in the newer video you linked me, what you refer to as the elephant hose, the thing it connects to that kinda looks like a mini turbo, mine doesn’t have a hose coming off, seems like someone just removed it. What is it for?
Plugged it withe a bolt shoved inside and a hose clamp. The big hose connects to the engine breather, mini turbo thing. It's an engine gas/oil separator, to vent engine pressure. The hose usually connects to the air cleaner to be rebirth in combustion again.
I ran a K&N filter off it and let it vent to atmosphere. Some hook a hose to it and aim it towards the ground. Definitely hook the hose up before you put the manifold on otherwise it's a pain. 7/8 ID fuel line will fit
@@ELDESTBuilds ok cool thanks for the help. I’ll be sure to do those things. Taking off that manifold was such a pain, took forever. Not looking forward to trying to bolt the new one up haha.
stop with these videos! now I'm pricing both the weber carb and single plane manifold. Can this be put on without the new exhaust system you put on?
Sure, you can do it in any order. The carb kit came with an air cleaner and the linkage adapter. There's a bit of fitment on the rod from carb to accelerator assembly, some minor bending to get it right. If you swap the manifold, there's a water line to block off from the pipe, below the distributor.
Bud, 124s that aren't originally California cars usually have the 4 into 2 exhaust manifold - no need to replace that with a header unless you are really increasing flow (like dual carbs and hotter cams). California cars had a 4 into 1 manifold that does not allow sufficient flow for the single plane intake and decent carb. If you already have a 4-2 manifold, the next step I'd recommend is to replace the catalytic converter with a modern unit (most people think a 'test pipe' is better than a new cat, but it is actually slightly worse for performance, besides making your car stink - and they cost about the same anyway.
The old exhaust is this one was 4-2-1. Replaced the whole thing with the system from Vick Auto and am completely happy with it.