Ifor Williams wheel bearing replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 เม.ย. 2021
- Ifor Williams have been producing trailers since 1958, with their factory in Corewn, North Wales (UK) they now ship trailers to many markets of the World, including New Zealand!
Unfortunately, maintenance on trailers tends to be a little bit more 'reactive' than 'pro-active' - i.e. repairs rather than servicing! This little LT105G is no exception, over 13 years old & covered an estimated 130,000km it's done some really hard graft. The Ifor Williams trailers aren't your regular ''Domestic'' type trailer, these are built super strong & over engineered - just look at the size of the stub axles in the video - this is only a 2000kg trailer!!!
Well, it's time now for me to give the little trailer a birthday, starting with a wheel bearing that's had play, well, for a very, very long time indeed. So, in this video I cover how to replace a wheel bearing. I have been told that for the last few years all of the Ifor Williams range of trailers all use the same wheel bearing, be it a little 750kg unbraked trailer to the mighty 3,500kg tri-axles (of which I also have one!). Therefore this video & the process for doing the job, including the torque setting(s) will apply.
It's always best to check your Ifor Williams Owner's Manual too that came with the trailer when it was supplied new - this booklet contains a lot of very important information regarding the upkeep & servicing of your Ifor Williams.
If you have lost the booklet you can download it by following this link:
drive.google.com/drive/folder...
I have also included the close up picture for the bearing number too in that folder.
In the next video I'll be servicing the brakes & looking at the lining thickness it's also likely that I'll be doing another video where I'll actually be replacing all of the brake shoes so there will be a few more videos covering the servicing, maintenance & repairs on these trailers.
Enjoy
Andy
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Thanks for all your support, until next time...
Andy - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Very well done. As always.
nice to see how to do this. Great work!
Cool interesting on circlip been doing this for 100 years didn't know about 2 edges 👍
What a bugger to replace! I have had to do this on some cars/trucks as well. My father and I did his 76 Chevy Pickup, then we did the same on my Datsun 200SX. What a day that was 😀....memories 🤣🤣
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Wheel bolt torque spec:
4 bolt hub = 88Nm (usually less than 2 ton trailers)
5 bolt hub = 110Nm (2+ or 3.5 ton trailers)
Great video. I don't see many of these trailers here in NZ. All my trailers have had the traditional adjustable and repackable tapered rollers. In the early days we used car hubs from the wreckers, nowadays the Trojan hubs.
Really like the Teng Tools torque wrenches.I find that they have a really solid step when desired torque is reached,hard to miss,even if the click sound aint overly noticable.
Definitely :-)
Good call about putting the circlip on the correct way round. Just a point the wheel can't come off if the circlip pops off. The bearing would have to come out of the other side of the hub.
good job and good video ; i understand now why i can't unscrew the nut , 350Nm !!! i look for better tools ...
Thanks , merci beaucoup de France 👍
interesting trailer. i like the bump stops, something we don't have here and it would save the trailer when overloaded. i've seen a 2 ton trailer that had 4 ton on it, bent two springs and snapped the other two.
re the brakes being in such good condition. odds are the braking system is simply not using them. its a trick i've seen here where they adjust them so they only work when under very heaving braking.
When I lived in New Zealand I had trouble failing the WOF for just perceptible play in the old fashioned adjustable bearings. I remember overtightining them around the corner of the shop and backing them back to drive home.
I hated the WOF system in New Zealand. It was so random what they would find and what they would miss.. Often finding things that were a characteristic of the model.
The UK MOT is far more consistent because it only covers items that they can easily test. That bearing would fail the MOT in that state.
Its said there is thread damage as you place a rim over studs and as you remove tight fast rims off studs over time This is not the case with bolts as the rim weight is supported by the boss on the hub first then by cone on bolts
Makes sense.
Wheel bolts seem to be used based on cost. I prefer studs. Plus with bolts, brake discs use a screw to hold the disc in place.
So... studs are better. My car has them. If they didn't I'd try to find out how to get it done.
No grease on this at all?
if you had put the bearing in the freezer for 20min or more its slides in really easy
You better ask Mrs Mechanic as she may not be too impressed if I do! lol
iford do make very good trailers as time has showing with yours. blots and studs are way better . if there get stuck you have 3 ways of getting them off with out damage . wheel blots your drilling. but a nut and stud as most probable failure point
use your shirt like a real mechanic lol
Wheel bolts seem like a cost saving measure, you need one less part (a threaded hole instead of a stud).
holly message a bit late the draw was 4 months ago
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