@@tomgcolemangoplayer thank you that was very nice of you sir. I truly appreciate that. I’m not a professional, I try the best I can with my camera. Especially one day when I spent a half hour, showing something and realized, I forgot to hit the record button. 😂 Thank you for commenting. I truly appreciate it.
@@SladesVWBeetle Good day Slade.... hope you are doing well. What are the small grills that are installed below the headlights on the front fenders called? Where can I get a pair to purchase?
@@SladesVWBeetle I'm searching your videos as well for a video on how to wire a 1972 vw bug.... mine is right hand drive. Did you have a video for this?
When you put the shroud on, shouldn't you have the Hoover bit on the cooler? I've seen stuff about it being needed to better seal the cooler. Also why again couldn't you use the thermostat? Different jugs?
Yes, the Hoover bit was on the oil cooler. You might’ve missed it. I would definitely never go without that. Yes I’m going to use rubber seals for the back near the oil cooler. They weren’t here yet you might’ve missed me saying that on the video. The cylinder heads are aftermarket, and the holes were not there for the rod to go down through. But after consideration, I think I’m going to pull that apart and drill holes down through. It will bother me if I don’t use the thermostat because it will be on my mind. Lol.
I'm curious about this as well. I have two different Bajas, both are currently running cylinder/ head tins but nothing else. One has a doghouse cooler and the other has a external cooler. 1500 single port and 2110 dual weber IDA's. Neither one has heater boxes.
You don’t need all the cooling tin because the motor is exposed. All those tins and seals are very important when the motor is enclosed in a closed compartment so you need fresh air coming in from the top and totally separate from hot expelled air from the engine. You don’t want hot expelled air being recirculated into the engine; that’s what overheats them.
Thanks my friend, I really don’t like to edit it out problems because then others don’t understand why they are having so many. Thank you for being here.
@@DemopVWgarage my tins are actually German. You may have missed that in the video. It’s the heads that are aftermarket. But either way, anytime you mix new and old parts up it’s a pain in the butt.
I use 6mm flange head bolts with 10mm heads. I have found that most Ace Hardware stores have an amazing assortment of metric bolts, studs, and nuts in good grades(8.8 and 10.9)
Ain't watched uncle slade in a bit love content and I'm gonna jump back on my engine jn a few weeks just getting everything together big big shouts from England 🏴 love wat u do ❤💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧 trust and believe we watching ur videos ❤
Interestingly enough the industrial tins from Gene Berg were less expensive than the ones from EMPI or other suppliers; at least some time ago. You are right on the cylinder head tin fitting when using aftermarket heads. I have CB 044 heads and my OEM tin fit is not 100%. Also, you should use foam strip tape around the oil cooler hot air exhaust tins. Also the rubber seals you ordered tend to not fit well; the foam tape works there as well.
Yes, fighting with the tins and aftermarket heads are a nightmare. I wanted to get Panchito heads for my next motor. I heard they’re really good. I didn’t check the prices lately, but I usually go to Gene Berg first for certain things. Thanks for the tip on the foam tape instead of rubber seals. I’ll see how they fit. There’s foam tape around the oil cooler it might’ve not showed up on video.
Very helpful for remembering the order of installation. I always get the screws started, but don't tighten them up until everything is in place so you can wiggle the tins to line up.
I hope it was helpful! Yes, not a bad idea, I did that on my one cooling tin installation. Tightened screws up in the end. Sometimes the tins give me trouble if they’re trying to be bolded to aftermarket stuff.
@@SladesVWBeetle I have silver soldered washers to reinforce many sheet metal parts due to fatigue cracks, ie, my mower deck where the blade bearing hubs bolt to the sheet metal. No burn through or grinding needed! Better than new! Keep up the great work!
I had the same new head battle with original tins happened to me last week. I ground one head fin above the exhaust port, using an original head as a template. However the bigger issue was the two mounting points near the spark plugs were 1/8 inch too tall, throwing everything off. Smart idea with the washers as spacers! We all now need a spacer strip of tin with long screws for front and back. Surprised to see no discussion of head tin problems in samba. New heads also lack cylinder head internal deflectors.
@@tomgcolemangoplayer yes, you could’ve not worded it. Better my friend. It is very frustrating and aggravating. And on video I have to compose myself and keep a clean channel without dropping nasty words lol. Aftermarket stuff, for the most part can be very frustrating to work with compared to when I was younger. To put a thermostat and rod in down through the head, I’m gonna have to take a long drillbit and hollow it out. I was considering CB performance Panchito heads, I hear a lot good about them, but I’ve never had them myself.
Mine is about ready for tins. Its a 1500 stroker in a 1200 case. Its gonna be tricky.. Those heads dont like those tins. Looks really good. Thanks for video
Wow, they look absolutely amazing. You did a great job. I think I would put a red distributor cap on. I don’t know maybe you could paint it. Anyway, hope you’re back doesn’t get as bad as mine brother Slade. It is a giant in my life. We just have to keep working through the pain. Can’t wait for the new video on Friday.
Thanks brother I appreciate the kind words! I apparently have a bulging disc I guess is what it’s called. My feet even have a numbing sensation. Along with a sore back. I’m trying to just get through it for the summer and maybe get it fixed over the winter time. I hope you’re doing well brother. I’m going to be doing Tuesdays and Fridays now.
16:25 Why is this metal so important? Will there be better air flow when we remove it for engine cooling? This part is missing in my 1303 / there is only this piece (20:22) Is it better if I remove this part as well? to more air flow
You’re welcome, I believe they are from car craft. Chinese heads. I didn’t purchase them myself. Unless they are original German heads, most of the time the cool tins have a tough time lining up.
Hello Brother, I have a Manx style dune buggy with a 1965 vin. It has a ball joint front end. From my understanding ball joint frond end didn’t come out until 1966. I want to install disk brakes but have no clue as to what year this frond end is. How would I find out what year it is? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I would contact Misty at the vdub store! She will definitely hook you up and give you personalized service. Just tell her Slade told you to call. www.v-dubstore.com/default.asp
I’m afraid of the answer but I must ask. I’m very new to the aircooled vw world. I have a 73 super beetle that I’m still in the process of putting back together. I’m sure that I’ve done things severely out of order but my question is, are putting the tins on, an engine out job or can you do them with the engine in the car? Obviously it’s probably much easier engine out but my naive self bolted my engine in after doing my clutch. I thought I had to put the engine in then tins on vs assembling the complete engine and putting it in. Obviously I will pull the motor of it is an engine out job but I’m trying to avoid causing my self extra work just because I already struggle enough with trying to find the motivation to work on it. I’ve owned the car for 9 years and it’s still not roadworthy. It has definitely been an uphill battle.
In case I do switch over to having heater boxes later, I will already have the ducts, However, I do have a chrome one on hand that I keep considering using without the ducts.
@@SladesVWBeetle Ah ok. Was just curious, I just picked up a 1600dp for my 65 bug and I'm thinking I'm going to get a aftermarket shroud without the ducts
@shanebrainerd1644 it all depends on what you’re doing my friend. If you’re definitely not going to put heater boxes on, then I completely understand. I’m probably going to grab a diesel heater, and of course I’ll do a video. And that’s what I’ll utilize instead of heater boxes. I have heard a lot of great things about them. And they don’t consume very much fuel. Thank you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and be part of it here.
Yes, you absolutely can. If I might suggest using a carter electric fuel pump. When you do this, I highly recommend that you use a pressure regulator, and a gauge so that you dial it in properly.
@@SladesVWBeetle ok the pressure regulator set it at what dial and where should I place it in the front or at the engine area I’m new to the beetle life and learning so thank you for your advice
@@oscarmejia7406 no problem, put your electric fuel pump at the front. I will be installing one in mine that you might be done by then. The pressure regulator with the dial, and the gauge will go back at the engine compartment. Possibly on your firewall.
Oh I agree!!! That is sincerely the first time I have ever ran into that. But I usually run all German stuff. I never realized how much aggravation with Chinese stuff trying to fit with German stuff.
Hey Slade ol’ buddy! Two questions! One, what/where did you get the VW engine stand adapter and where/when is your meet-up this summer? We’re talking our Mustang on Power Tour 6/10-6/15, we’re free any other time!😉
Hi Bob, actually, that is a harbor freight engine stand. The yolk adapter was actually at a garage parts buy out, I ended up seeing it. My buddy bought one from CIP one, the adapter, and it fit perfectly well. It was in one of my engine videos. Send me an email, and I’ll send you the flyer to the event. Thank you so much. I hope you can make it Sladesbeetle@yahoo.com
@@SladesVWBeetle thanks man! email sent! I suppose I could weld up an adapter as needed if/when I need it. Right now I’m hoping I don’t need to pull the engine, it runs great. however I may lift the body to inspect and repair any frame or body rust. The worst place I see rust is the front around the Napoleon hat and frame head. Hard to see and get to!
Thanks!
Thank you very much I appreciate that!
14:21. And THAT's why you stuff rags or tape up intake holes.
Exactly!!! because chances are, I’m going to drop some thing lol thank you for being here.
Thank you for the honest demo. Your excellent empathy makes the camera angles gold, you make it look easy to film high quality!
@@tomgcolemangoplayer thank you that was very nice of you sir. I truly appreciate that.
I’m not a professional, I try the best I can with my camera. Especially one day when I spent a half hour, showing something and realized, I forgot to hit the record button. 😂
Thank you for commenting. I truly appreciate it.
@@SladesVWBeetle
Good day Slade.... hope you are doing well. What are the small grills that are installed below the headlights on the front fenders called? Where can I get a pair to purchase?
@@SladesVWBeetle
I'm searching your videos as well for a video on how to wire a 1972 vw bug.... mine is right hand drive. Did you have a video for this?
When you put the shroud on, shouldn't you have the Hoover bit on the cooler? I've seen stuff about it being needed to better seal the cooler. Also why again couldn't you use the thermostat? Different jugs?
Yes, the Hoover bit was on the oil cooler. You might’ve missed it. I would definitely never go without that. Yes I’m going to use rubber seals for the back near the oil cooler. They weren’t here yet you might’ve missed me saying that on the video. The cylinder heads are aftermarket, and the holes were not there for the rod to go down through. But after consideration, I think I’m going to pull that apart and drill holes down through. It will bother me if I don’t use the thermostat because it will be on my mind. Lol.
Awesome video...do you have recommendations on tin usage for a Baja? should i use them all...only some? (no heaters and headered exhaust)
I'm curious about this as well. I have two different Bajas, both are currently running cylinder/ head tins but nothing else. One has a doghouse cooler and the other has a external cooler.
1500 single port and 2110 dual weber IDA's.
Neither one has heater boxes.
You don’t need all the cooling tin because the motor is exposed. All those tins and seals are very important when the motor is enclosed in a closed compartment so you need fresh air coming in from the top and totally separate from hot expelled air from the engine. You don’t want hot expelled air being recirculated into the engine; that’s what overheats them.
@@vayabroder729 makes sense.
This is right where I am on my build! Perfect timing. I use an old school ice pick to line things up when the holes don’t match up
Thanks for being here. I truly appreciate it, and that is a great tip!
Great video! I do appreciate how you include all the things that don't go right. That makes me feel better about when I run into issues.
Thanks my friend, I really don’t like to edit it out problems because then others don’t understand why they are having so many. Thank you for being here.
New product ideas. I'd buy those.
Thanks for being here, CJ, and leaving a comment. I appreciate it.
Aftermarket tins are the devil 😉 I’m fighting them right now😂
@@DemopVWgarage my tins are actually German. You may have missed that in the video. It’s the heads that are aftermarket. But either way, anytime you mix new and old parts up it’s a pain in the butt.
I use 6mm flange head bolts with 10mm heads. I have found that most Ace Hardware stores have an amazing assortment of metric bolts, studs, and nuts in good grades(8.8 and 10.9)
Yes, exactly, that’s why I said in the video I should’ve went and grabbed them but I got lazy. I think the flange head bolts are such a better idea.
Another informative video. Seems like the oks German parts don’t mix well with the new parts. Great vid my man
Thanks very much. I appreciate that! Yeah, it’s kind of normal. The German parts don’t mix well with the new ones out there.
Ain't watched uncle slade in a bit love content and I'm gonna jump back on my engine jn a few weeks just getting everything together big big shouts from England 🏴 love wat u do ❤💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧 trust and believe we watching ur videos ❤
Thank you my friend, and thank you for taking the time and leaving a wonderful comment. Hope your day is going well.
Interestingly enough the industrial tins from Gene Berg were less expensive than the ones from EMPI or other suppliers; at least some time ago. You are right on the cylinder head tin fitting when using aftermarket heads. I have CB 044 heads and my OEM tin fit is not 100%. Also, you should use foam strip tape around the oil cooler hot air exhaust tins. Also the rubber seals you ordered tend to not fit well; the foam tape works there as well.
Yes, fighting with the tins and aftermarket heads are a nightmare. I wanted to get Panchito heads for my next motor. I heard they’re really good. I didn’t check the prices lately, but I usually go to Gene Berg first for certain things. Thanks for the tip on the foam tape instead of rubber seals. I’ll see how they fit. There’s foam tape around the oil cooler it might’ve not showed up on video.
Wow, that was a sweet gift. How nice!👍
Absolutely, I was so shocked by that. I hope you’re doing well, my friend.
Very helpful for remembering the order of installation.
I always get the screws started, but don't tighten them up until everything is in place so you can wiggle the tins to line up.
I hope it was helpful! Yes, not a bad idea, I did that on my one cooling tin installation. Tightened screws up in the end. Sometimes the tins give me trouble if they’re trying to be bolded to aftermarket stuff.
Just found you as I am doing the top end on my first vw motor. Thanks soooo much!!!
@@lovemye36 outstanding! Thank you so much for being here I truly appreciate it
To fix the broken screw slot, tack weld or silver solder a washer on to patch it!
Thanks Bob! And thank you so much for stopping by.
@@SladesVWBeetle I have silver soldered washers to reinforce many sheet metal parts due to fatigue cracks, ie, my mower deck where the blade bearing hubs bolt to the sheet metal. No burn through or grinding needed! Better than new!
Keep up the great work!
@@bobsbarnworkshop thanks my friend. I truly appreciate that.
I had the same new head battle with original tins happened to me last week. I ground one head fin above the exhaust port, using an original head as a template. However the bigger issue was the two mounting points near the spark plugs were 1/8 inch too tall, throwing everything off.
Smart idea with the washers as spacers! We all now need a spacer strip of tin with long screws for front and back.
Surprised to see no discussion of head tin problems in samba.
New heads also lack cylinder head internal deflectors.
@@tomgcolemangoplayer yes, you could’ve not worded it. Better my friend. It is very frustrating and aggravating. And on video I have to compose myself and keep a clean channel without dropping nasty words lol.
Aftermarket stuff, for the most part can be very frustrating to work with compared to when I was younger.
To put a thermostat and rod in down through the head, I’m gonna have to take a long drillbit and hollow it out. I was considering CB performance Panchito heads, I hear a lot good about them, but I’ve never had them myself.
Thanks awesome video Slade!! Now you have me thinking about that rear tin thanks😂😂.
Thanks my friend! That video will be hot Friday in a couple of days. I’m doing Tuesdays and Fridays now.
Thanks for another great video, Slade!
Thank you for letting a comment and being here I appreciate it!
I love your diy videos.
Mine is about ready for tins. Its a 1500 stroker in a 1200 case. Its gonna be tricky.. Those heads dont like those tins. Looks really good. Thanks for video
THANKS FOR TELLING ME ABOUT THE COMMERCIAL TIN FOR HEADERS! THANKS!
@@michaelyoung1901 you’re very welcome!
Great video, I did the same thing with those little tins 🤣
That’s not the first time I’ve done that lol
Beauty , This Is The One Ive Been Waiting For , Shall Be Doing It Soon , Thank You Sir
You’re very welcome, and thank you for being here Brian. I truly appreciate it.
I really enjoyed & learn a lot watching your videos.Would like to know where you got the rubber parts for the dog house pieces ?
Wow, they look absolutely amazing. You did a great job. I think I would put a red distributor cap on. I don’t know maybe you could paint it. Anyway, hope you’re back doesn’t get as bad as mine brother Slade. It is a giant in my life. We just have to keep working through the pain. Can’t wait for the new video on Friday.
Thanks brother I appreciate the kind words! I apparently have a bulging disc I guess is what it’s called. My feet even have a numbing sensation. Along with a sore back. I’m trying to just get through it for the summer and maybe get it fixed over the winter time. I hope you’re doing well brother. I’m going to be doing Tuesdays and Fridays now.
Really like that color
Thank you, that’s colonial red by rustoleum. I really like it.
outstanding video! Tins have always seemed very difficult to understand for me..kind of like a black art.
16:25 Why is this metal so important? Will there be better air flow when we remove it for engine cooling? This part is missing in my 1303 / there is only this piece (20:22) Is it better if I remove this part as well? to more air flow
Very good 🇨🇵👍 and interesting
Thanks very much. I appreciate you taking the time to comment.
Always a pleasure 👍
I have put a little JB weld on a washer on some of those where the slot for the screw has broken.
That’s actually a very good idea, thank you very much!
Great vid MR Slade !
Thanks very much, my friend. I truly appreciate it!
nice video thanks for showing that what brand of heads are they?thank-you
You’re welcome, I believe they are from car craft. Chinese heads. I didn’t purchase them myself. Unless they are original German heads, most of the time the cool tins have a tough time lining up.
Hello Brother, I have a Manx style dune buggy with a 1965 vin. It has a ball joint front end. From my understanding ball joint frond end didn’t come out until 1966. I want to install disk brakes but have no clue as to what year this frond end is. How would I find out what year it is? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I would contact Misty at the vdub store! She will definitely hook you up and give you personalized service. Just tell her Slade told you to call.
www.v-dubstore.com/default.asp
Thank you brother!
you go boy i shake too and still get the job done
@@generovinsky7228 thank you! Still trying to make these tremors go away. But I work with it! Stay strong my friend
I’m afraid of the answer but I must ask. I’m very new to the aircooled vw world. I have a 73 super beetle that I’m still in the process of putting back together. I’m sure that I’ve done things severely out of order but my question is, are putting the tins on, an engine out job or can you do them with the engine in the car? Obviously it’s probably much easier engine out but my naive self bolted my engine in after doing my clutch. I thought I had to put the engine in then tins on vs assembling the complete engine and putting it in. Obviously I will pull the motor of it is an engine out job but I’m trying to avoid causing my self extra work just because I already struggle enough with trying to find the motivation to work on it. I’ve owned the car for 9 years and it’s still not roadworthy. It has definitely been an uphill battle.
Just curious why you didn't buy a aftermarket fan shroud without heat ducts?
In case I do switch over to having heater boxes later, I will already have the ducts, However, I do have a chrome one on hand that I keep considering using without the ducts.
@@SladesVWBeetle Ah ok. Was just curious, I just picked up a 1600dp for my 65 bug and I'm thinking I'm going to get a aftermarket shroud without the ducts
@shanebrainerd1644 it all depends on what you’re doing my friend. If you’re definitely not going to put heater boxes on, then I completely understand. I’m probably going to grab a diesel heater, and of course I’ll do a video. And that’s what I’ll utilize instead of heater boxes. I have heard a lot of great things about them. And they don’t consume very much fuel. Thank you so much for taking the time to leave a comment and be part of it here.
Hey slades have a question can I put a electric fuel pump on a beetle
Yes, you absolutely can. If I might suggest using a carter electric fuel pump. When you do this, I highly recommend that you use a pressure regulator, and a gauge so that you dial it in properly.
@@SladesVWBeetle ok the pressure regulator set it at what dial and where should I place it in the front or at the engine area I’m new to the beetle life and learning so thank you for your advice
@@oscarmejia7406 no problem, put your electric fuel pump at the front. I will be installing one in mine that you might be done by then. The pressure regulator with the dial, and the gauge will go back at the engine compartment. Possibly on your firewall.
lesson learned ; testfit and modify tins before paint and remember redo the threats after paint , ok got that ;-)
Oh I agree!!! That is sincerely the first time I have ever ran into that. But I usually run all German stuff. I never realized how much aggravation with Chinese stuff trying to fit with German stuff.
Would love to buy a "Slades" plate
Would the tins work better if they were switched? Are they left and right or identical?
They can’t be switched back-and-forth. I don’t believe the way the shape is.
looks good.
Thank you, Jim! I hope you’ve had a great day.
Hey Slade ol’ buddy! Two questions! One, what/where did you get the VW engine stand adapter and where/when is your meet-up this summer? We’re talking our Mustang on Power Tour 6/10-6/15, we’re free any other time!😉
Hi Bob, actually, that is a harbor freight engine stand. The yolk adapter was actually at a garage parts buy out, I ended up seeing it. My buddy bought one from CIP one, the adapter, and it fit perfectly well. It was in one of my engine videos.
Send me an email, and I’ll send you the flyer to the event. Thank you so much. I hope you can make it
Sladesbeetle@yahoo.com
@@SladesVWBeetle thanks man! email sent! I suppose I could weld up an adapter as needed if/when I need it. Right now I’m hoping I don’t need to pull the engine, it runs great. however I may lift the body to inspect and repair any frame or body rust. The worst place I see rust is the front around the Napoleon hat and frame head. Hard to see and get to!
First here to watch
Yes!! thanks for being here. I really appreciate it.
👍
Thank you, my friend!