VW Bug how to prevent engine overheating
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ย. 2024
- best deal on goodyear air hose check this out amzn.to/3b5cJvy All these things i suggest have been tested with gauges back in the 80s at my buddys shop. The only thing I left out is Cool tin which is type 3 replica tin for all vw engines. It goes under the cylinders. has metered holes. Really works well it is on the other modified engine video. you might want to watch it as well.
th-cam.com/video/1mTVj5eTWjI/w-d-xo.html
Here are additional key information for modified engines plus more cooling stuff...
Mike F : In regards to cooling systems, check out Jake Raby's D.T.M. cooling system. Each cylinder receives 20% cooling and the oil cooler receives 18% only 2% loss of air throughout the entire system. "R.A.D." (Raby Engine Development) has documented proof of the efficiency of his system. I personally own one of his T-4 2056cc engines in a T-1 bug configuration, although somewhat pricey it turned out to be great insurance for keeping an aircooled engine "Properly cooled" in the harshest conditions. Being able to drive the death valley in August without overheating is quite satisfying. These D.T.M. systems are also available for the factory T-1 vehicles as well.
Run it faster. It's air cooled
What is an acceptable head temp, and what is considered "to hot" / when us as the driver should start to worry.
Always ,Always use engine oil with a zinc additive to make your lifters and cam last .
VERY enlightening!! I've been around bugs since 1960, yeah I'm THAT old! Through the years, it's amazing how many things we forget. Just got a VW Trike for the wife. Engine's fairly open, so I wasn't worried 'bout bottom tin. OOPS, gonna install them. I like that you brought attention to oil temp. vs engine temp! An engine can literally 'smoke' itself before the oil temp goes up.
yes , and keeping engine clean & oil free....I created channel adapters , from aluminum....I run J-tubes , they take the place of the heater box sides....sold a pair , on my '67 bug.....kool vid , thanx from all bugheads everywhere
Great explanation! Good job and nice bug!
Just a little improvement: Relocate the fuel filter below your tank to avoid leaking and fire in your engine compartment.
And place it before the pump rather than after. Better to have the pump sucking through the filter than pressurizing it
Been running an oil temp gauge for 20 years and has served me well. If your oil temp gets too high you know your heads are too hot. Best thing i did for my engine run cooler (being in southern California where it gets very hot in the summer) was to space the engine lid. Dropped my oil temp like 40 degrees. It has never overheated since.
Cheaper and easier than a cylinder head temperature gauge. I will eventually add an oil temperature and maybe a pressure gauge too. Running a 65 40HP in a 64 baja.
What is " to space the engine lid" ?
@@larrybrinley8222 i think he means the "hood" of a bug. more airflow?
Mike, you are a wealth of information. 100% of things you mentioned I had to figure out though out the years with many failures.
You mention 'you know how it sound like' (when it gets hot) and that brought me back to 1985 and my 1967 bug. I remember exactly what your talking about. When the engine got too hot, it got weak and sounded different...
Never heard that happen on my 68 - and I usually listened when driving.
Yup, it's telling you HELP ME!!!! I'M ON FIRE!!!!
Good advice on keeping top and bottom of the motor isolated, that's key as is running all the tin including "sleds" underneath. As VW increased fan capacity they started adding the deck lid louvers. My 1970 has two rows of louvers and a rain shield but not the dog house shroud, just a wider fan. Doghouse flows a lot more air. You may never have a problem but the best place for fuel filter is where the fuel line comes out of the chassis at the back of the pan and use a metal one, not plastic or glass. Almost everybody tossed the flaps and thermostat when rebuilding but the flaps actually redirect a little more air over a section of the heads even when fully open. It's not vital but does help cool the heads some. I run them in my bug but not in my speedster. I also don't like how the new thermostats fail closed but the old accordion stats can still be found. If you run stand offs you can use baja bug tricks to keep your bug running in the rain/wash. Hair spray on the plug wires was one of my favorites. :)
Ditto on removing the fuel filter. Relocate under the wheel well. Also, lace the hose clamps where they connect to the carb and fuel pump as the brass fittings frequently slip out of the casting. This together with ensuring you have a good grommet where the metal fuel line enters the firewall and you will have mitigated 99% of the risk of fire. Very nice car. Please do not let it burn up. I have seen too many, all the same cause.
yea grommet or wrap the metal line with hose. a little silicone to hold it in place. Like these comments and hope more people read them. I have never had a fuel filter crack yet but I am a bit more worried about the new stuff now made so cheap.
Never put the filter on the pressure side of the pump!
Instead of lacing the brass fitting, I put a drop of Loctite on it. Then I inserted the brass fitting (which has about a 15° bend in it) into the fuel pump. One second later it was impossible to twist the fitting. The Loctite filled the clearance between the two parts.
My 71 bus(12yrs)had a Berg $5 oil dipstick temp gauge. Made the red oil light flash when oil got hot. Used it on my 1776cc dual carb. I added a deep sump and external oil cooler w/ electric fan mounted away from engine under floor. Course my oil volume went from 2qt to 6qt. I totally agree that ALL SHEET METAL has to be there.
I grew up with VW but not a handyman. I never install a 009, just a vacuum centrifugal advance because former makes engine run hot. Nice video.
😎🇵🇭👍
I have never had an overheating issue with my '71. When i adjust the valves, I always leave #3 a bit loose. I also have an oil cooler and filter (aftermarket) Also, keep the seals in good shape as well. Every 1500 miles or 3 months, i inspect the fuel pump, lines and fittings.
It's funny that most people's engines always have those tin screws that secure the bottom tin to the case missing. Not sure why, but I bet it's well over 50% of the motors I look at have those 4 screws missing. I'm sure you also notice that the carb preheat tubes are missing the inner and outer top seals. Not a big deal, but still missing and a place air can recirculate back up top. You obviously know your way around ACVWs but for those that don't know what complete tin looks like, you might want to point that out. Great vid none the less.
This is for the guy that uploaded the video some of what you are saying is true but for the most part it sounds like you are Repeating something you heard from that doesn't know everything about aircooled VWS Dr Porsche would give you an E for Effort for making this video without all the facts you can post this for all of your viewers you want to Run a 3.88 ring and pinion if you gonna be running on the Freeway at 70 plus mph I want get into all of the other ways to keep the engine cool ok maybe one more just for you I noticed the deck lid on the car with the Dual Port engine didn't have any Vents where does the heat go when the car is parked...it normally goes up but your car has no where for it to go oh and another thing you fuel line the rubber section are a fire hazard you might want to change those ASAP or sooner...and be safe
Also painting your engine is a bad idea. A clean rough casting is best for heat dissipation. Dr Porsche knew what he was ding. Very smart guys designed this stuff.
yes good info.
Just depainted mine. Last guy painted it gold. 🙄
@@LaverneDefaziox Mine was painted silver when I bought it. Everything was. That rubber tube going from the air filter to oil filter? Spray painted silver. A rubber hose. Lol
Nice tip on rejetting and cylinder head temp gauge on #3. I like the version which uses a ring under the plug. I’ve had bad luck with the version which utilizes a cooling fin attachment. For Florida summers I use the deck lid stand offs along with your lid lift. I also like the Mystery Oil setup. I’ve been doing VWs since 1977 and it’s funny older you are the more stock you run and appreciate the amazing engineering done by the factory designers.
got that right all stock no problems.
advice i am looking for // i just want longevity and smooth . buy new stock motor from germany . haha. @@Mikefngarage
How to prevent your air cooled VW from overheating ? Just assemble and install it the same as they did from the factory with all of the same parts that it came from the factory. The folks at VW put a lot of Deutschmarks into designing it so it would run well, don't try to re-engineer it.
that is mostly right there are some improvements you can and may need to do. The car was designed to be used in Germany Not the Califonria desert or worse yet AZ or NV. I highly recommend cool tin for under the cylinders if you are building a new engine. It really works. There is a reason they put it on Porsche and airplanes. plus the jetting for todays fuels.
german parts only if possible,just saying have you seen those Chinese aftermarket parts?they are really bad.
except it wasn't designed for 115degrees in Az..:(
Even if completely factory fresh, #3 cylinder still overheats and has problems with valves and pistons going bad due to how the fan cools the oil. As much as I love VWs, that's an inherent design flaw.
Some bugs here are all original and yet overheat all the time. Any suggestions on having a bug in a very very very hot city?
Why some people say "no" or finger down?...The guy took his time to show some positive issues on the air cooled VW engine.Please guys.
From me is a...THANK YOU.
I cant figure it out either. thanks for the positive comment
I know, right?
I appreciate ALL videos that give good info for this type of automobile.... Thanks again!
People are Google shit for brains...they search topics and confuse that with research. The same imps typically have zero experience with anything they feel the need to negate.
I'm amazed how many people still put the fuel filter in the engine compartment with the known fire risk from the distributor and exhaust right there. It's not that hard to put it up front instead. At least yours isn't over the distributor like most people do.
keeping the baffle deflector between the cylinders is very important as well as a sealed doghouse,no holes in it,also keeping for fan free from dirt,and keeping all ribbed aluminum on block free of gunk or debris,fan tension and length of spark plug threads also are factors,depending on what kind of driving you will be doing.oil level also very important a vw only takes 3 qts so if you are low a 1/2 qt thats going to be a problem.oil leaks gunk up cooling fins and compromise cooling ability.i can keep going but i won't.theres so many things.
Yup, been running premium gas since the lead was removed (ages ago). Since the Bug gets pretty good mileage I figure spending more on gasoline (per gallon) evens out in the end. Costs less to operate than my Toyota Land Cruiser on regular gas.
I used to run my old Karmann Ghia with full instrumentation: tach, volts, oil pressure, oil temp, head temp. And the doghouse cooler, after Gene Berg did tests showing the German engineers knew what they were doing.
Love this!!! As far as air flow goes, I agree about the firewall tin... however for fire sake, I don't agree that this can be removed. Anything that helps block flames from the cabin will give passengers valuable time to exit in case of fire.
The only mod I did to my VW is I encreased the RPM of the cooling fan by using a different custom set of pullies.
Yes it makes the performance suffer a little bit but it's worth it in the long run!
I can't imagine it making the car suffer very much. I think that's a good idea especially for my Manx buggy because it doesn't have any way to seal off the engine compartment.
All these people without the proper tinwork and seals complaining about the "design flaws" of the engine. No, its the fact that you butchered it. Take out half the radiator and switch down to 1/2 radiator hoses and see how well your water cooled car works.
On my Type 2 Transporter I routed the fuel line/filter round behind the manifold at the rear of the Carburetor. A little harder to get at but I learned after a near catastrophic engine bay fire it was worth the hassle.
yea that is cool. I have seen some with fuel hose rubbing on the throttle cable doing that just keep it clear of that. Had them both ways and never had an issue. But I have seen the barb slip out of the carb an burn several of them to the ground.
Back in the '80s I put Bus wheels on my Ghia: an inch shorter and an inch wider than original. I found some relatively low profile Michelins that were just about the same overall diameter as the original tires, so I had the same gearing and my speedometer was accurate. For clearance, I only had to grind the rear bump stops a little bit.
14 inch wheels look wrong as there is a big handwidth between the bodywork and the tyre.
Acceleration would improve but the motor would need crazy revs for safe highway speed driving with a standard transmission.
You cant get something for nothing.
For a ghia has a heavier,wider body than a bug to haul around.
I suggest installing a heavy duty power pulley, that helps increase the fanspeed and maintain momentum. Gene Berg having the bestquality but think csp or cb performance also do them.
This type of air cool engine is very sensitive to tiny oil leak. Air if move fast can sitting dust on surfaces as head cylinder and cylinder plates if plates oily. Good assembling and sure to oil sealed is important.
Never been around beetles and somehow this video came into my feed. Very interesting watch!
I think in regards to the cooling points made, you have guys coming from water-cooled backgrounds unaware just how much engineering work went into that ducting. They chuck it thinking its a weight mod or hindering the ability for easy maintanence.
thanks for watching
be carful they are addicting the basic technology that was used was enticing.
great info video. a must watch for all newbies to the VW family. Keep dubbing
for sure you wouldnt know how many guys still have those holes in the rear tin still open that have been driving that way for years and wonder why they keep having to change engines. Look at cars for sale and open holes in rear tin or missing. want a fortune for the car.
Something so small and simple can save so much. When it comes to engine bay all that chrome won't get you home. It creates more heat or vapor lock where gas will start to make. bubbles. im curious to see the views on this one. I will be posting more videos and starting on first car. Whichever that one may be. Keep your eyes open. keep your videos coming. I have learned alot. keep dubbing
volkswagenplanet knowing you have a lot of vw experience, I'm thinking about getting a beetle and wondering what maitnence I should do and what to buy when I get one. in mind I want a small turbo so what should I get for a turbo set up. Thanks if you can help out :)
Tire width and sidewall aspect ratio will always determine the final gear ratio on any vehicle. Bear in mind that a larger overall diameter/circumference tire will make the wheels spin slower and you must watch speed because indicated speed will be lower than actual. The only mods to VWs that are really worth it are ones that route the air around the engine more efficiently.
This is one of the most valuable video about Vw I’ve ever watched!!!
Thank you man!!! I think you just save my poor engine!!!! I was doing it all by ignorance.
Glad it helped!
Mike Fn Garage Oh yeah!! 👍🏻
Mike Fn Garage Mike, where are you located? Just in case we’re close, I’m in NC 😁
Front engine tin is necessary to prevent heat from being suck in and additionally is the front tin seal. It is necessary also.
better if it is on, but we did tests with temp gauges in the early 80s and did not get any different results with the front off. The rear of the car oh yea if you want to burn up a motor just leave some holes in the rear.
If a bug overheats normally she will cut out let her cool completely before starting her up again. As it is an air cooled engine very same as a ride on lawnmower. I remember we had a heat wave in Ireland. The push petrol mower cut out i let her cool down and ran her again. Vw beetle uses the same principle
185mm aspect ratio 75 or 92 for climbing tires thru the terrain in Germany mountain and Alps of Italy. This is 381mm Firestone made in 1935 ad 381mm is 15 inch for motorists in Germany read only R381 on the Mich or Mick tire.
Best to run in a cooler country.. Heads crack around or near the plugs. Built in flat spot on standard carb in the 70s
flat spot could be from loose throttle shaft makes motor run lean. too watch out on that one.
Get a vented lid or stand off hinges or both... It helps more then most things he mentioned
+ady-B David the only thing I don't like about them is water comes in the engine compartment and causes problems when you wash your car
yes they do work but every time you wash your car you are in for a big job.
those dont really work when you are idling,the deck lid is designed to draw air down over the engine blowing all hot air down and away from engine,the deck lid being open compromises cooling ability.plus it looks like crap
Mike F we put a garbage bag over the engine when it's washed. But we make sure the engine is cool.
Every diehard Volkswagen guys I know all say to leave them 100% stock for best reliability, the one guy I know who works on them for a living says to leave it the way it came out of the factory if you want it to be dependable but if you change anything even something as small as the air filter, you throw the reliability right out the window, vw stuff is really cool but they are very finicky engines
Citroen 2CV cooling (for the engine and oil cooling) blows the VW away. Massive fan distributes air equally every where....even at idle. Even makes more power per-displacement.
Yes, citroen made it better
On a 67 beetle I am trying to get running right the carb is new from a different mechanic. The main jet and air screw does not seem to lean out as it should..sootey.plugs of course..compression is 120..on all cylinders..and changed over to electronic ign..going up on throttle is sluggish too.tks 👍
the carbs need to be jettied right out of the box. Rough jetting is 55 idle and 130 main jet. but you need to check them with a sizing tool. I have found several stamped wrong. Jet sizing tools are available from empi. also they have jets check the size before you install.
@@Mikefngarage Thanks sure like your VW'S..And your speedy responce..👍
Make sure your old tar board insulation on the fire wall is in good shape, attached, or replaced. Dangling or broken firewall insulation will suck right over that fan hole no problem.
You do have Mercon V fluid in the Volkswagen air cool transmission at the back. You need to stop bubbles in the transmission fluid by add in more steering pump fluid of 5 speed forward so add in Lucas ZDDP Additive and/or detergent and Plus try the transmission 70W80 oil pump low volume and oil cooler. There oil cooler Misnomer brings the fluid cooler radiator that comes with transmission cooling oil sensor also named heat sensors for trans.fluid.
Run the recommended sae 30 or 10w-30 oil. The oil is diverted to flow through the cooler when the rear relief spring drops below a certain pressure. A heavier oil will create more oil pressure. Generally that’s good, but a higher oil pressure will raise the point at which oil flows through the cooler as much as 40 degrees. There’s also a point to be made to run the stock thermostat flaps, even if there’s no thermostat, just make them fixed open, it helps flow air toward the heads. A 356 generator pulley will make the fan spin faster. Berg was also a strong believer that hemi cut heads with 6.9:1 comp on a stock engine ran cooler, and allowed you to safely run the afr’s closer to stoich.
Hey!!! Thanks for that tip.
10w-30 in an Air cooled VW? You must live up north.
@@RonBakerDallas Sometimes straight 30 is hard to find. I wouldn't run 10w-30 on the highway for hours in a bus. It's all about hot viscosity, I wouldn't recommend anyone to run something that's thicker than an sae30 @215 degrees F. The oil only flows through the cooler once pressure drops below a threshold. too thick of an oil raises that temp ceiling, which is no bueno.
@@curtislovrak5390 I only run 20w-50 unless it gets to freezing, Live in Texas so never really gets to freezing around here.
this is good thinking and it helps me out now. cheers from Drangedal, Norway!
If I had a Beetle, the first mod I would implement is a way smaller pulley on the generator/air fan shaft for greater speed.
Dont do that. The fan consumes quite a bit of horsepower. The smaller pulley has less grip on the vee belt. Combine these 2, and you will have a slipping belt at even moderate RPMs. Result will be a fried engine.
You could use a late model larger oil cooler and the slightly wider cooling fan impeller.
Good video overall but don't forget to prep the heads first.
Most all heads need the fins cleaned up and profiled with a circular saw and speed controller . All the flashing and shitty casting benefit. Even drilling out flashing where possible. #2 fix all oil leaks. Super important.
You mentioned doghouse oil cooler? I used a type 4 as advised by my mechanic. It is hot in my country 8 months in a year. Good video!!!
Great point! we also did that in the Bulletproof engine build. Type4 cooler modified the shroud . I would do that in hotter climate too. also putting the electric fan powered cooler works good too. I also use heads that AA puts out that have opened up air finned area. better flow especially with the cool tin installed.
Check your pulley sizes. Shutters in your fan housing? Gene Berg oil temp. dip stick. Then you know.
HOW TO HOT ROD VW's. "Only a fool would remove fan housing air shutters! Gene Berg described how air vortices occurred inside fan housing missing the shutters. Air leaks and coolant leaks..Depending of air temp. you also need the thermostat to prevent cyl wash. Painted cases always run hot! Think about it. Valve guide wear is why #3 exhaust valve breaks. Just the way it is, freshen heads at 50k max. and toss old exh. valves. If new exhausts valves have no markings, toss them too!
I bought a after market oil cooler that screwed on the back of the fan housing, and it also came with a oil filter that use a regular oil filter.,A head temp. Guage would be a good idea.and 30wieght synthetic oil which handle the heat better.I see your engine has a 09 distributor and a Bosch coil good improvements .
With today's mini electric fans I would think that would be superb !
great for the oil cooler
I agree with this hears my question doing it this way will be great in stop in go traffic and Fwy driving
Good stuff. Really eye opening for me.
Great video, as always Mike!
mind is scrambling thinking what i need to do on the bug now this ugh added to the list lol
This video is packed with useful info!
Awesome cooling tips, thanks !
I feel like the best times to enjoy these air engines are in fall temps .
yea like right now it is just right. I dont like the summer in my vws. too hot inside the car and too hot for the engine.
the best thing to do by keeping the stock look is to modify the dog house fan housing and install a wider fan.
adjust the fan regulating thermostat to factory spec to prevent overheating, and also to provide wintertime heat for the passenger compartment.
Maybe put a dry sump system in there with a 5-7 quart oil tank and it'll never overheat with all the stock parts. No extra oil cooler to block airflow. IDK if you could put a dry sump system on a Beetle engine.
Thanks! I learned a lot from this video👌🏻
I have a '79 convertible - How can I tell if it's running hot, especially with the top down, driving 2-3 hours to the beach, on the interstate? Thanks!
Awesome video man. I truly love my 70 bug
Right on!
Thanks for all the information sir and I need to buy almost all the important. Parts for my 68 thanks so much and great video 👍
Just wanted to clarify something. It appears what you are saying is that it is best to, say, seal the engine area up to prevent the engine overheating, or to keep it at an optimum cooling capacity? Thanks
And don’t paint your block it traps heat
Well fuck
The paint job will melt away before that can be a problem
Bob Hoover says....
That s not true
gracias carnal,voy a aplicar algo de lo que aprendi aqui para mi vw 1971 westfalia motor 1600,listo para viajar ala playa
Here’s a quick tip, don’t sit idling.
How do you know if the fan is functioning? Thanks. Great video!
I'm watching and learning! 👍 thank you
Thank you for the video I'm new to VW, i got a 75 and I'm curious if i put a temp head gauge what the temp i should keep it. Thanks
Lots of great info
VW BUG HOW TO PREVENT ENGINE FIRES:
Remove the defective designed POS press-in fuel fitting at the carb, tap threads using a 1/8" pipe-tap and SCREW-IN a brass fitting.
(been there and fortunately did not burn-down my '68 Bug. )
yes that is the most common problem right on or you can use a hose clamp and put a leash of wire to one of the carb bolts. if you know what I mean
we have installed 10-12" electric fans with 140f thermostat goes on and turns off all by itself sometimes we run bit higher thermo max 180f ..just like today's water cooled cars they have electric fans as well as mechanical..just saying in the desert of 118F in the summer it is not like Europe nice and cooler . running a bit fatter main jet runs a bit cooler but run 89-91 RON better burn we run mixed for performance E85 . remember vw beetle back in the day as it reads on the gas flap door min 91 RON @ 7.5:1 compression !!!! higher octane runs cleaner ..you dont see NASCAR running 86-91 octane do yah ???
I tought of that
i got 2 bugs both running and driving no rust in them but are baja's one is a 63 the other is a 74 the 63 has a 72 bus trans axle in it got both for 400 bucks think i got a good deal with extra parts and custom wheels good tires the 63 takes chevy 5 hole car same as my camero center line wheels
I just inherited a 73 bus with type 4 engine. I’ve been daily driving it and will do so all summer (hopefully find a beater for winter) it gets 100+ and 90+ everyday from June thru August
I’m a little worried haha
Have all the original tin, adjusted valves, degreased engine and cleaned everything up better. Change the oil frequently and am still worried about overheating. Thinking of making a lid prop also to have the engine lid gap at 5 inches or so
Also just ordered a new engine surround foam seal as mines deteriorated and half there
Were to get air from to "cool" the engine? Let think about that. Low pressure behind vehicle going down road(as in wind tunnel) wouldn't be a good idea as air is hot the closer you get to surface of road + exhaust heat is down there too. Air leaks are death to engine because all the air is coming from low, exhaust area. ALL air must come into engine compartment from built-in scoops on side of buss. The scoops are not where by accident, that a high pressure area, at speed from frontal air displacement .
Edwin H Singmaster makes sense
It's hard to believe someone who still is running a plastic fuel filter in the engine compartment.
Your side engine compartment heat insulators are missing.
wire a fan from the battery terminals and stick it on the inside of the decklid
Hey Mike, Im working with a guy to restore a beetle for me and I was wanting to put dual 40 IDF carbs on the engine. He keeps telling me that dual carbs will cause the engine to overheat all the time. Its an 1835cc engine. Do you have any idea if 2 carbs will cause the engine to run much hotter than a single carb?
Thanks for all the info 👍👍
I've seen a cooked engine from the firewall insulation being pulled, against the fan inlet, blocking it.
And +1 to all the comments about fuel lines failing at the brass insert into the carb or pump,
if you've just fitted a filter in the line, you probably gave those brass inserts a wobble and a tug getting getting the hoses on the filter. If they were ever going to come loose at all, it's probably now.
Is this the right place to talk about the fires in the back seat because of the missing battery cover?
good point about the battery cover. There should be a plastic piece on top of the positive terminal. plus you should always use a group 42. Myself if I have passengers often I use a old prestone bottle and cut it in half and put it over my battery.
another big failure is electrical but almost a whole other issue. Missing or worn out grommets like the positive terminal grommet or
I've seen them swallow the brass shot pump nozzle in the carb also.
What is a good temperature for the heads and what temp should you start to worry at?
Wondering the same thing
@@justinfewkes9313 lol yeah, now we just need an answer... lol anyone? .... anyone?
>>What is a good temperature for the heads and what temp should you start to worry at?
Wow. So much great info.
I’m having heating issues with my 63 bug and it’s driving me nuts.
Very informative, thanks.
Why is the cooling fan capped off ? I thought they needed to be hooked up
Thank you for the tips !
The long tube swing axle has the 4.12 r/p
What about making sure the belt is snug? And that there is enough crankcase oil? 45 years ago when I used to pump gas in these things I very frequently found those items needing attention. And that was when the speed limit was 70 (before it was lowered to 55).
My fuel starts to bubble in the fuel filter, is it because the engine is overheating ? what is the solution ????? .......
Thanks
I hope that you changed your fuel filter by now
I learned a lot !! Thanks 👍😃
Just got my 73 bug running again. After watching this video, I'm wishing there was someone like you or even YOU near to take a look at it. My biggest fear is breaking down, being stranded. The guy I bought my bug from, back in 1989, cut the spindles to lower the car :/ I suppose that has altered the airflow? Is there a way to fix or put original/uncut spindles back on? Great video, thanks for sharing, Lo :)
Lowered spindles don't have any effect on cooling. If you think you may be running hot, look elsewhere. I used to drag race one VW and drove a brace of others back in the 70s and early 80s....some lowered and some not. They all ran cool because I was conscientious about keeping all the tin in place and holes plugged.
Do deck lid standoffs help at all ?
Very informative thanks
1-You go 70 km/h on highway for 15 minutes okay.
2- brake a little bit how much actually ?
3-and then full pedal
4- if my engine sounds like "ping" or "in pain= is that meaning sound wraaaaaa" idk can you describe it more about that overheating check ? Speacialy for that ping or pain i can't understand that word sorry. English is my 2nd. Thx a lot 👍🏻
Also when i park my car after a daily drive and don't stop it about 5 minutes , i go out in my car and go behind , open the engine hatch and listen it. i hear something like " someome playing battery and hit a drum but very far away" duum-normal idle sound arround 15-20 seconds - duum. What is that ?
th-cam.com/video/gTQQ1aYYixM/w-d-xo.html here it is.
check the jetting on the engine it is running hot. start there should be about 130 to 135 main jet.
the engine is definitely running hot. sometime the heads fins have clogged ports too. pull the engine and check them...
@@Mikefngarage thank you so much. It was just back from enginework about 2 months ago. The mechanic said he only care about upper parts he didn't go in the cylinders and lower parts. He said it's alright and don't need it. Right now my beetle is in bodywork. As soon as it finished i will check this again. Hope it's not serious. Thank you so much for your kindness. Stay safe&healty 👋🏻👋🏻
What would happen if you were to reverse the air fan, so the air would come out the top and sucked In from the bottom?
Thanks for this vid and good info.. peace.
Nice looking VW's...