Barry, I will be watching closely on how you solve this transmission support problem. I just purchased a 1993 5.0 H.O. and the AOD transmission with only 17,000 original miles and plan to install them into a 1964.5 I am building. I'll be following how you pull this off. Thanks a lot Barry for the powerful information.
I guess Im randomly asking but does any of you know of a tool to log back into an instagram account? I was dumb lost the password. I appreciate any help you can offer me
@Reece Cameron I really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and im trying it out now. Takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
Hang tough Barry! Nice work so far. We watch your channel because you show us the reality of building a custom install and the thinking behind the solution. Priceless!
Barry I had same issue with my son, 67 when I put a 93 AOD in it. I used 1/4"x 1.5" flat stock and made entire mount. I made sure that the rear mount holes on the mount through holes where centerlined with the trans mount bolts (lower mount to crossmember).
You have installed a 4R70W in the car, not an AOD. The depth of the bellhousing is deeper to accommodate the lock-up clutch in the converter, pushing the pan and mount back ~3/4" over an AOD. That's why the crossmember hits the pan... Now, for the holes not lining up, that's a layout/fab error, LOL! Great looking project, best of luck to you!
When I installed a AOD on the 358 W in my 40 Ford sedan delivery i used 1x2 box tubing & 1/4 plate for the attaching point for the trans mount been working for 37 years.
I am doing this same swap in a 1964 Falcon. The floor pan looks identical to the mustang. I notice in the video that you do not have the sendors mounted. Is there room for them? I did a preliminary test and I'm not sure. Enjoying the videos, thanks.
I've put the AOD trans in to a 73 f250 let me tell you plenty of room in that install..... Would put one in a torino or and elite....in a new York minute....but mustangs of your vintage are a whole other animal....like watching you get through every challenge.
Looking forward to seeing your vision for the transmission crossmember. It doesn't have to mount to the floor at the welded in support. It could mount to subframe connectors plates and be almost straight across.
I'm glad you posted this, I was about to purchase one of those for my 70 project. Did you reach out to CPP and ask them whats what? Looking forward to your design and see if it will work for mine.
@@JoDaddysGarage exactly,problem now a days is close enough is good enough with the attachment of some modifications may be necessary which is a load of you know what.You pay good money for something that at the end of the day just deserves to go in the scrap bin.Don't mention Dynacorn.
LOL, came up tp watch since I'm looking for AOD stuff, THEN your cross member fiasco sucked me in, I'd be SUPER PISSED if I had to deal with that, there is so many variables in MFG, they could of made that thing with slots instead of holes etc
Take your early retirement and do what you want to do. Always upsetting when parts don’t fit as they are supposed too. First time doing certain projects is always a learning experience. 👍👍. Tom
That mount looks like a Monday or Friday build, 2nd option is a better idea ,more than likely save your blood pressure and your sanity,send them a copy of this video and show them the problems
"The 50% Industry". The part is going to give you MOST of what it's supposed to deliver. This was a label given to the aftermarket auto parts world, by a magazine I read years ago. Lack of precision, poor fitment and quality control just more of a suggestion than certainty. These are things that have plagued the aftermarket industry for decades. All-time champions in this category are aftermarket headers. It's really frustrating when you spend hard earned money on aftermarket parts and you have to finish engineering and fabricating the product. Instead of the part solving your problem, it created a bunch of new ones.
Great vid and I’m sorry to see you’re having issues. If I can make a suggestion: I’d suggest you pull the trans pan off and ensure the sump isn’t crushed against the nose of the filter. The metal on the pan is super thin and the weight of the trans may have deformed the pan into the filter. Pull it off, roll up some aluminum foil into a burrito shape then put the pan against the rail. Pull the pan off and see how close the filter tube is to the bottom of the pan. Bang the pan to correct the spacing if required. Hope this helps! Great work so far!
it will be nice to see your design ..., but you're overworking yourself to make it with round tubing, keep it square two angle cuts weld and you're done.. but no fun in it ... lol
If you had changed the oil pan you could move the engine forward and you would no longer have clearance issues with the bell housing bolts, transmission, steering arm, header(s), rear transmission support, and…? Maybe in hind sight you should have done this? By the way you are doing an excellent job.
your mock up trans was for a 4.6 5.4 sohc dohc,
I was thinking the same thing.Closer than I thought they would be.
16:06 EXCELLENT heads up on NON fitment, check it all BEFORE you have to grunt
Barry, I will be watching closely on how you solve this transmission support problem. I just purchased a 1993 5.0 H.O. and the AOD transmission with only 17,000 original miles and plan to install them into a 1964.5 I am building. I'll be following how you pull this off. Thanks a lot Barry for the powerful information.
I guess Im randomly asking but does any of you know of a tool to log back into an instagram account?
I was dumb lost the password. I appreciate any help you can offer me
@Elliott Daxton instablaster :)
@Reece Cameron I really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and im trying it out now.
Takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Reece Cameron It worked and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thanks so much, you saved my ass :D
@Elliott Daxton Happy to help =)
What you're experiencing is why I usually make custom mounts for my conversations. Thanks for sharing your experiences Barry. Keep up the great work.
There's no question Barry, the Brooklyn Pony has come a long way, keep em coming
Following. Plan to put an AOD in my 71. Appreciate you sharing your experiences! Great work!
Hang tough Barry! Nice work so far. We watch your channel because you show us the reality of building a custom install and the thinking behind the solution. Priceless!
I would have just sawed off the brackets, repositioned them and welded them in the right place.
That stater cut out is for the 157 tooth flywheel & 164 tooth wheel.
I LIKE that option they added to the SAME plate
Amazing video! Keep up the great work!
Man of integrity
Barry I had same issue with my son, 67 when I put a 93 AOD in it. I used 1/4"x 1.5" flat stock and made entire mount. I made sure that the rear mount holes on the mount through holes where centerlined with the trans mount bolts (lower mount to crossmember).
Hello I watched your video on The AOD I have C6 in my F100 will that AOD fit a 390 engine
It may need an adapter.
Barry I did not see you fit the flex plate, to bolt onto crank and converter.
Correct. I'm just mocking at this point.
You have installed a 4R70W in the car, not an AOD. The depth of the bellhousing is deeper to accommodate the lock-up clutch in the converter, pushing the pan and mount back ~3/4" over an AOD. That's why the crossmember hits the pan...
Now, for the holes not lining up, that's a layout/fab error, LOL!
Great looking project, best of luck to you!
SO, I'm assuming the cross member is not working BECAUSE it was designed for a AOD and >>NOT
I used the Ron Morris AOD crossmember in my 65 Fastback. Fit like a glove. I used the stock rubber mount and was done with it.
That pan is for a 4x4 application
That's good to know, I like that pan, may have to order one like that
Can't wait to see what you come up with 👍
When I installed a AOD on the 358 W in my 40 Ford sedan delivery i used 1x2 box tubing & 1/4 plate for the attaching point for the trans mount been working for 37 years.
I am doing this same swap in a 1964 Falcon. The floor pan looks identical to the mustang. I notice in the video that you do not have the sendors mounted. Is there room for them? I did a preliminary test and I'm not sure. Enjoying the videos, thanks.
I will have to "massage" the floor to make them fit.
Thanks!
@@JoDaddysGarage
I've put the AOD trans in to a 73 f250 let me tell you plenty of room in that install..... Would put one in a torino or and elite....in a new York minute....but mustangs of your vintage are a whole other animal....like watching you get through every challenge.
Your mock up transmission case is for a modular motor, not the small block style.
He needs to note that on the case where he won't use it in same situation
Looking forward to seeing your vision for the transmission crossmember. It doesn't have to mount to the floor at the welded in support. It could mount to subframe connectors plates and be almost straight across.
I was also told by PA the shift lever needed to be flipped.
Can’t wait to see how you tackle the remaining problems with the transmission install.
I'm glad you posted this, I was about to purchase one of those for my 70 project. Did you reach out to CPP and ask them whats what? Looking forward to your design and see if it will work for mine.
I did not. I'll just make one.
I have a 69 Mach1 With a three speed automatic what do you suggest I hate that transmission
Depends on why you plan to do. You can change to a teemed 5 speed if you want to keep it a manual. Or.a tko. For an automatic, I would go with an aod.
Why don't you make your own transmission bracket and send that POS back along with a request for a refund?
I am confident the fabricated crossmember will be better than any you can buy
bending the tube, heat it up, and then form it on a wooden buck.
Nope. it should fit without having to modify it.
@@JoDaddysGarage exactly,problem now a days is close enough is good enough with the attachment of some modifications may be necessary which is a load of you know what.You pay good money for something that at the end of the day just deserves to go in the scrap bin.Don't mention Dynacorn.
Why would you want to spend the effort to fix their problem, send it back.
LOL, came up tp watch since I'm looking for AOD stuff, THEN your cross member fiasco sucked me in, I'd be SUPER PISSED if I had to deal with that, there is so many variables in MFG, they could of made that thing with slots instead of holes etc
Take your early retirement and do what you want to do. Always upsetting when parts don’t fit as they are supposed too. First time doing certain projects is always a learning experience. 👍👍. Tom
That mount looks like a Monday or Friday build, 2nd option is a better idea ,more than likely save your blood pressure and your sanity,send them a copy of this video and show them the problems
Send it back and make your own
...or: make your own, slightly based on the fabricated one (use as a model), and then send it back.
What happened to that noisey air compressor? LOL
Put a 2006-2011 crown vic pan on it.. they are flat
try a c6 trans cross member
Ya if you spend on a part you xpect it to fit.. you didn't mention anything about the quality of the parts construction.... Or did you??
Construction was good actually. I would have been very pleased it if fit.
"The 50% Industry". The part is going to give you MOST of what it's supposed to deliver. This was a label given to the aftermarket auto parts world, by a magazine I read years ago. Lack of precision, poor fitment and quality control just more of a suggestion than certainty. These are things that have plagued the aftermarket industry for decades. All-time champions in this category are aftermarket headers. It's really frustrating when you spend hard earned money on aftermarket parts and you have to finish engineering and fabricating the product. Instead of the part solving your problem, it created a bunch of new ones.
Great vid and I’m sorry to see you’re having issues. If I can make a suggestion: I’d suggest you pull the trans pan off and ensure the sump isn’t crushed against the nose of the filter. The metal on the pan is super thin and the weight of the trans may have deformed the pan into the filter. Pull it off, roll up some aluminum foil into a burrito shape then put the pan against the rail. Pull the pan off and see how close the filter tube is to the bottom of the pan. Bang the pan to correct the spacing if required. Hope this helps! Great work so far!
Thanks. I'm confident the pan is good. I did not use it to lift anything, and it was supported by the 2x4's in the crate. It is quite thin as you say.
Well the good thing when you get done fabricating one you could sell them as a.side business.
Hey Barry- Jack W and I decided you’re a lot more interesting than work...
it will be nice to see your design ..., but you're overworking yourself to make it with round tubing, keep it square two angle cuts weld and you're done.. but no fun in it ... lol
Don't ruin my surprise... :O)
If you had changed the oil pan you could move the engine forward and you would no longer have clearance issues with the bell housing bolts, transmission, steering arm, header(s), rear transmission support, and…? Maybe in hind sight you should have done this? By the way you are doing an excellent job.
There's even more to consider then. Radiator, A/C, water pump, headers, steering.... it's a trade of one set of problems for another....
You need to go work on Chevy"s and stayaway from Fords!