3.0 Duramax 120,000 Mile Review | Chevy 1500 4x4 LTZ Crew Cab | The Good, The Bad, The Ugly
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 มิ.ย. 2024
- Real world review of a 2020 Chevrolet Silverado, 1500 LTZ 4 x 4 crew cab pick up. A look back at the last four years and a review of performance and capabilities. This truck has a diesel 3.0 L Duramax diesel engine also known as the baby Duramax.
I have 21 rst Z71 crewcab standard bed. 3.0. I have around 48k miles & have had zero issues so far. I average 700 miles to a tank. All highway miles per week.. love my truck
Don’t go 15,000 miles on ANY BRAND OIL! Way too long. 5000 max no matter what the oil company says!
If you’re using oil, camshaft cover needs to be replaced. Oil usage means more def fluid usage.
Great real use video. So good to see a review from a real life user. Thank you.
I have a refreshed 22 LTZ and really like it. No oil consumption, great mileage and very smooth on road truck!
Thanks. Having recently purchased a 24 GMC AT4 with the 3L it was reassuring to hear a high mileage review that was for the most part positive.
Thanks. The new one is a 24 Chevy LTZ same thing but with a different badge. The new engine version is supposed to be even better. Will find out soon. 😀 -Robert
These motors are basically the same exact motor you see in every Semi Truck driving down the road but a miniature version. A inline 6 motor is known for reliability for many decades. The LM2 was a awesome motor & the LZ0 is a LM2 on steroids. I truly believe alot of these motors will be million mile motors like alot of Semi Trucks. 💪
I have a 2022 GMC Sierra X31 crew cab with this engine and absolutely love it. Zero issues so far. Zero oil consumption between 5K mile oil changes. Make sure you are using Dexos D 0W-20 oil.
Wow. What a beautiful place you have! Good luck on the new truck im thinking about buying one too.
What an absolute dream property! Great review.
Thanks. It’s a project property for sure, but hoping to build on it soon. Lots to do!
Service Bullion 22-NA-027
Valve cover defect causes glow plug 2 to burn out. Causes oil consumption and increased DEF fluid usage. That’s the cause of “The Bad”
Thanks Mr Leo!
Well, not the radiator or water pump or the other thing he mentioned.
The cylinder head cover is leaking due to the factory welded joint, watch this video "Oil Consumption Issue Finally RESOLVED! 3.0 Duramax LM2 "
I was just coming to the comments to say this. It's also the reason your replacing glow plugs! @TheOregonTale
Good job this is probably the greatest truck created in the last 20 years Good mileage good motor good body great truck I agree totally
👍👍👍👍👍👌Great honest review with good information and you seem to have a good relationship with your local dealer thanks for sharing!!!
Thanks Lawrence. Yes the local dealer has been great. Service writer John @ Airport Chevy in Medford has been awesome. Tara sold me both. -Robert
If I’m not mistaken then your old one was with the LM2 engine which had a few teething issues. One was the oil consumption. There are videos out there of oil consumption related to glow plug #2 going bad . All stems from a redesign of valve cover. Seems they took care of that on the LZ0. I have a 2023 with no oil issues unless I’m towing my 8000 lbs beast of an RV. Then it uses some. I have the exact same truck as you. Love it. Great videos. Good to know if issues that MIGHT creep up.
Awesome. Yes was the LM2 and did the #2 a couple times. Will be interested to see the longevity of the new motor and the changes they made. I put miles on pretty fast and will put it through its paces quickly. -Robert
Great review, thank you.
I have a 2019 6.7 PSD pan gasket was replaced under warranty at 94k miles. Trucks sitting at 125k now
Overall it’s been reliable. Still rides and drives like new.
thanks for the review
Thanks! I am looking a Trail Boss version of the same truck!
Thank you for your review!
Always enjoy the wildlife visiting.
Great review. Geez that's a lot of issues. Glad you got them under extended warranty.
He apparently didn't know there was a TSB for an issue with the valve cover. The supplier had a defective plastic weld that isn't visible from the outside and it was allowing engine oil to leak into the crankcase breather, causing oil consumption. That oil gets pulled into the engine and fouls the glow plugs, which is why he had to replace so many glow plugs. He's using the wrong engine oil and that's a terrible idea with diesel engines with modern emissions equipment. The plugged EGR cooler could easily be because he had the defective valve cover and causing it to burn a kind of engine oil that isn't even supposed to be in the engine, creating excessive soot or other bad deposits.
Thank you for your review .
Thank you Shannon.
Thanks for the review brother
Thank you.
Yard is absolutely beautiful,if you don’t mind me asking, what mountain range is that in the back
Thank you the review
Early engine needed the valve cover replaced to fix the oil burning or using oil issue like most gm cars and trucks. Also should help with glow plugs
Great video, but also man what a gorgeous spot! Reminds me of the Smoky mountains a lot or even the Catskills up here in New York State where I am.
Thanks. We are in southern Oregon. Was in upstate New York once and was blown away at how pretty it was. I was picturing the whole state being like New York city, but was surprised with all the beautiful farms and rural areas up there. -Robert
Yes very rural, the Adirondack and Catskill mountains are really nice. I haven't quite made it out to Oregon yet been all around it but not there specifically. Its defintely on my list!
Nice! Great review!👍👍
Thank you
Nice property and thanks for the video, some nice information here since I'm thinking of getting either the duramax or try to get one of the remaining Ram ecodiesels
Thanks
They stopped making the ecodiesel for a reason
check with dealer on warranty of the oil consumption there is a bulletin 22-NA-027, can get a DTC code related to glow plugs specifically cylinder #2. This is a known issue and they need to replace the camshaft housing baffle as there is an internal weld that is broken and allows oil to bypass the baffle and goes through the EGR System and back into the engine.
Thank you!
They have found out there is a problem with the baffle in the valve cover. This will incorporate a glow plug code resaulting in the plug needing to be replaced.
you have a lm2 motor... they have a fix for the oil usage. A bad baffle on the intake also impacting oil usage...
Good video. TY
My LZ0 hasn't used a drop & I'm getting ready to do the second 5000 mile oil change. First change I swapped to Amsoil & picked up a little better mpg too.
Good to know. I’m getting ready to do my 1st change on the new one. What color jug amsoil synthetic are you running? I’m looking for a change from the mobile one I’ve been running. -Robert
@@TheOregonTale It's best to order thru their website & it won't steer you wrong. Open a membership & it pays for itself with 25% off of all of their products for a year. I had no idea they made half the stuff they make. My next move is to swap out the transmission fluid & gear oil in the transfer case & rear end with Amsoil products after Winter. They make grease for my grease gun to grease up the zerks in the Massey Ferguson too. All at a discount for a entire year so well worth the membership.
Thanks for doing that video
Have to ask how dose it work when your pulling a load im just starting to look and was wondering should I be looking at the 3.0 ?
I’m looking in getting a 2020 silverado highcountry 1500 diesel they selling me one here in the bay it has 120k miles so wanted to see some opinions
I just saw a video here on TH-cam a couple day ago, that allegedly solved the oil consumption issue on the 3.0 Duramax. A guy was trying to problem solve it with an extensive look into the issue. Long story short, a GM tech from a Boston area dealership reached out. Apparently, there is a defect in a part casting over the valves. The casted seam between number 2 and 3 pistons is defective and allows oil to get into the number 2 cylinder. GM has a replacement part supposedly caste correctly that fixes the issue. I cannot confirm if this is actually the problem and that it's no longer an issue on new vehicles. I just hope so, because this motor deserves to run perfectly. In my opinion it's the best half ton motor available and fixing this issue would be huge. I don't trust a motor that burns 2 quarts every 5k. To me that's just unacceptable. I will keep an eye on this issue, hoping that this was the problem. I still want one of these someday but that issue was a deal breaker for me. I need better from a vehicle a buy. Like a quarter quart between changes.
Spicer Designs is the TH-cam channel.
@rj3075 thanks for saving me the time to re-find it. I want to watch it again. See if this is, in fact what fixes the issue. Only time will tell, but I hope so.
Interesting. Would make sense. I think those were the glow plugs that kept going out. Will see if the issue is fixed on the new refreshed version.
If it makes you feel any better my 2023 LZ0 hasn't used a drop. I ran the stock filled oil 5000 miles & changed it with Amsoil & a stock filter. I'm 3000+ miles on the Amsoil & still haven't burned a drop. So far so good on the LZ0 & it doesn't surprise me. ALOT of things were improved to make more horsepower & torque & get better MPG. The LZ0 is BEAST MODE. 💪
@@vanlifebiker Nice! Thanks for the heads up.
Hey, I love the view. When you say it uses oil, like how much oil? How often are you adding oil? I’m currently in the market for a new truck. I have a 2014 Chevy Z71 LTZ (5.3) and I can’t make my mind up on either the 3.0 or the 6.2. Thanks
The oil consumption is due to a defective valve cover that has a TSB out for it. Apparently his dealer didn't bother to check. The new valve cover fixes the oil consumption. The oil consumption also lead to his glow plug issues and the occasional emissions issues as well.
There was another guy that found that the LM2, pre "refresh" have/had bad intake manifolds. When you mentioned replacing glow plugs, let me guess, #2, and oil consumption, my guess is that you found it to drink DEF. Those are all tied together!
Not a bad intake manifold. A bad valve cover that allowed engine oil to leak into a ventilation tube and get sucked into the engine. Basically the PCV was causing oil consumption and damaging the glow plugs.
Thank you man, now i just need truck prices to drop a little lol
There is a fix for reducing the oil usage. There was a bad oil baffle which requires replacing the intake.
Oil consumption problem has been solved with a new valve cover assembly.
yes another youtuber had his fixed and his is not burning oil now
interesting, i had the same radiator issue with mine right around 35,000 miles. also a injector issue right around the same time.
Have the 2023 LZ0 no oil consumption
good video, I hope you have better luck than I have had ordering a truck. Place my order on July 23, 2023 for a 2024 LTZ diesel. After rescheduled 5 times I still haven't received it. Chevy or dealer have not been any help. Very poor customer service. I even emailed the GM president and got a call from her office. But they could not give me a reason for the delay.
Wow that’s crazy. I thought about custom ordering, but in the end I just looked through the local dealers inbound trucks and found the one most similar to my old one with a few tweaks. Was supposed to take a couple months, then they called me two weeks later and said it was in. Maybe it depends on which plant yours was ordered from?
Nice video since you’re buying a new diesel you might want to upgrade the oil pan if you look on u tube there’s a channel called Demon works he has bought several of these trucks. The upgraded pan holds another 2 quarts and is supposed to help with the oil consumption. Good luck 👍🏻.
Thanks Stephen. Appreciate the info! -Robert
I have a 2020 as well and have had a bunch of stuff covered under warranty.
1. The truck had the no start/long crank issue. Dealer wouldn’t do anything because it never happened when it was there. Didn’t throw any codes. I had it on video they didn’t care. The issue seemed to resolve itself around the 30-40 km mark.
2. At 40 k and 100 k kilometres I had the charge air cooler replaced. Under warranty. One of those times the truck went into limp mode.
3. The truck does consume oil. I’d say I’d the oil meter is down around 30% you can bet I’m down at least a half a quart or more. That being said I started using Valvoline and it doesn’t burn oil. Seems the dealship oil is lower quality.
4. I’ve also had a 3-4 other random engine lights that resulted in nothing nothing being done.
Interesting. The only long crank I ever had on it was when replacing the fuel filters and it was filling the system back up. I may be the odd person but I actually have a code reader they I’ve had for a long time and it’s always in my tool kit in the truck. I’ve pulled it out a few times when codes throw just to make sure not a big issue and can keep driving. Sorry had a bad experience at your dealer. -Robert
I have a 21 GMC with a lot less miles. Glad to see it’s aged well for you. (I hate the occasional long crank start)
Thankfully never had long crank on mine
Make sure you check out the TSB 22-NA-027 for the valve cover issue. It causes oil consumption and damages the glow plugs. GM has a redesigned part that addresses the issue.
Never had a problem on either had LB7 and LBZ both almost 200k used chevron deli
Thanks! It sucks that the baby duramax does not have an allison transmission like the big one that is meant to last forever. I wonder how many miles before these transmissions fail. The 1/2 ton transmissions were always rated for 150,000 miles and the 3/4 ton transmissions used to go to 280,000 miles. I was amazed at how many engine problems you had with this truck at that low of miles.
I have a 2024 GMC HD and the trans has been worked on at dealer at 13k and now at 18k. First time basically it was leaking everywhere. Now doesn't leak but jumps when I start.
the oil consumption is probably a defective valve cover. there's a recall for it
My son has a 2024 GMC 1500 3.0 he got on a 800 mile trip 37 mpg
Small Hybrid sedans don’t do much better than that at highway speeds.
I sell parts for this truck. The oil you are supposed to use is the dexos D 0w20 ESP. if you used the extended performance 0w20 it will burn because thats oil meant for a gas engine!
The valve cover on the LM2 has a bad weld that lets oil get sucked into the intake through the breather tube and causes the engine to burn oil (as well as cause glow plug failures over time). You're correct that Mobil 1 EP is the wrong oil and it could potentially cause issues with the emissions equipment. I don't know why guys think it's a good idea to use oil formulated for gasoline engines in their diesel engines.
Are you near lookout Mt.? Looks familiar
Soooooo, when will you review the differences between the old and new?
Wow , good truck!
If your glow plugs are bad and using oil, your valve cover has a bad weld inside and oil is draining through your breather. Will use more def also. Dealer should know about this by now. Need to check numbers on the cover and see if its the bad weld ones. I know a few people that fixed this and no more burning oil,
Came here to say this exact thing.
Did you get a different tractor?
I bought 2023 with the LZ0 3.0l engine. I put 13500 miles on it since July and my only complaint so far is the oil consumption. I mainly drive highway and I get 28-32 mpg, the best I ever did was 39mpg.
That’s amazing? What truck make/model? I recently got the 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 AT4X. Average highway is 19-22 mpg. Only 5000 miles so far.
@@Anthony-cb8sw2023 Chevy Silverado 1500 RST 4x4.
@@BeeTreeGuyI can verify this. I have the same truck as you and get around 30mpg avg. My best was 35.5mpg.
How often do you change your oil?
@@hochhaul every 5000.
Sold mine after 6 months, multiple upper oil pan leaks and cool leaks into upper oil pan. Chevy covered first repair (20K) tried not to cover the second time. But after fighting with the dealership they covered it, another (20k). Repairs required transmission to be removed. Got out before any other issues could come up. That being said I loved the truck other than that.
Wow I know guys that had their 2nd gen Tundra leak oil multiple times from the cam towers and rear main seal within the first 30k miles. I don't think they traded their truck in just because of some oil leaks.
Right. Other than that.
@@hochhaul I wasn’t willing to risk it happening again and being forced to pay 20k+ to fix more leaks out of warranty.
That makes me feel better. I have 10k on my 2023 duramax RST. I traded in my 5.3 for the duramax because of the mpg. I regularly get 28-32 mpg highway. I commute 45 miles each was and needed better mpg. Just hope it as reliable as Toyotas.
These days, hoping it's as reliable as a Toyota is a very low bar considering how unreliable the 2016-22 Tacomas have been and all the low mileage crank bearing failures on the 2022+ Tundra.
Modern toyota reliability is no different from the domestic manufacturers, I own a 19' tundra the "QDR" is just an advertisement scam, truck is average at best, I dont get the hype
I can't wait to see what you come up with to keep the deer out of your garden when you make one
lol. Yes they are everywhere and into everything. 😂 Between them and the turkeys may have to build Fort Knox garden. -Robert
@@TheOregonTale Or buy alot of freezers 😂👍
On the oil are you using a DexosD certified oil? Only like 6 different types out there, in Mobil1 it’s ESP-X2 DexosD 0W-20. Regular Mobil1 or Ext Mileage 0-20’osnt recommend or approved same with Castrol it’s specific and say DexosD Diesel 0-20. Baffle in the vavle cover by #2 glow plug is the oil burning issue most likely. There is a replacement option for it under warranty. Shouldn’t use hardly any oil. You will love the newer LZO for 2023 over the old 3.0L. Love my 2023 LT Trail Boss 3.0.
I use the factory oil from dealer on my 2020 and do not have any issues. The new engines are designed so precise I don't care to try anything outside of design.
Do your research on what dexos means.
@@chrispope5147 Most engines spec'd for 0w20 have bearing clearances that are selected for use with 0w20 and can be at greater risk of damage by running a heavier oil. There is a recent video on the TH-cam channel Dave's Auto Center titled "The truth about oil change intervals and analysis" with Lake Speed Jr. He's a tribologist that talks in detail about why it's a really bad idea to use a heavier oil than what is specified and can increase risk of wear and damage.
@@oceanventure What do you mean by that? There's a difference between Dexos and DexosD. You shouldn't use just any random 0w20 oil, Dexos or not. Some oils can have a higher sulphated ash content that will cause DPF's to become plugged. Especially if you're like this guy and driving around with a defective valve cover with a TSB out for it, causing his oil consumption and damaged glow plugs. I don't know what the ash content is of M1 EP compared to M1 ESP-X2, but if it's higher, he's causing his own future issues with his truck.
Was hoping you'd have some insight to the oil pump belt change that they recommend around this many miles. Been having a hard time finding people with over 100k that have done it to see how bad it needed it.
By insight do you mean you were hoping he'd have paid for it and you could assess whether or not you should? Gnereal concensus I've found is that it appears to be very conservative on their part but with that assessment and pushing the limits means some are going to be an outlier and regret not doing it.
@@bradpeterson5108 mostly out of curiosity. These are on the list of possible new truck for me. I’d like to see more people getting up over 200k first as I tend to go over that. I did see they lengthened the interval to 200k for inspection on the new version so that’s a plus.
There was a tear down (oil starvation) of a LM2 with 150,000 miles and the belt was still in good shape.
The recommended interval for that was 150k so hadn’t hit it yet. I just looked and is 200k on the new version. -Robert
@@tonyread5559 I know the belt itself is the same exact part number so I'd guess you're good til 200k on the LM2 too. I think they went with 150k on the LM2 for a bit more assurance because they didn't know. Now they know so it's 200k on a motor that has more horsepower & torque & it's basically the same motor with improvements. I think driving habits make a huge difference as well. If you drive like a high school wild child everywhere than neither motor may make it 100k. If you drive it like a mature adult it could last 300k miles IMHO. 🤷♂️
The new LZO 3.0 has more power and tons of improvements. They improved on their shortfalls on the engine. Why waited for the LZO over the LM2. USE the 0w20 dexosD oil. It's specifically designed for the tolerance for that new engine....even Gale Banks said to stick to factory recommended oil. I use Lucas oil religiously....extends the life of your fuel system and fuel pump.
I have a LZ0 & I've been happy with Amsoil. Averaging 30 mpg overall & my record on the 50 mile setting is 44+ mpg going over the Sierra's from Reno to Sacramento.
Will be interesting to see running the LZO over the next several years to see how it stacks up over the old one. Haven’t towed anything yet to see if the hp makes a big difference. Although the old was was a beast towing anyways for a 1/2 ton. Not that I ever towed more than its capacity… 😎
@@TheOregonTale I'm a Union Wireman & work on jobs with hundreds of blue collar guys at a time & I've talked to guys with the LM2's. My mpg is better along with hp & torque. There is a posting on TH-cam & it's a GM Engineer talking about the differences. The basically made a wonderful motor even better. I think it was 25% of the motor changed to the better if I recall. It's the same but with ALOT of improvements. I couldn't be happier with mine so far & from what I'm hearing about the half ton gas GM's I think we made a better move. They are having alot of problems with them with that new technology going from 8 cylinders to 6 or even 4 cylinders I believe.
I would buy mine again but would move up one trim level.
Mine is a 2021 @53k miles the transmission gave up, warranty cover it but they put a refurbished, I was happy with the truck overall, but now it worries me to keep it after warranty expires
I do not know why the public continues to buy GM vehicles. The only way is to do it is to trade them in before 60,000 miles.
@jamesrichardson559 the diesel warranty goes to 100k
@@jamesrichardson559 I don't know why the public continues to buy Toyotas. The last two I have owned were constant headaches (my 3rd gen Tacoma was basically a lemon and I'm glad I got rid of it) and had terrible rust rot despite Toyota fans insisting that the frame rot issue was "fixed" years ago. But even when their frame had holes in it just like the previous ones they owned, they still bought another Toyota. It's similar the guys that kept buying F-150's in the early years of the 3.5 EB when they were having constant issues with cam phasers and timing chains. They'd have to replace the chains and phasers 2 or 3 times, they'd trade it in for a new F-150 and have the issue again.
The majority of issues with the 8-speed have been fixed since 2019/2020 when they reformulated the transmission fluid and changed the trans cooler bypass valve design. The 10-speed has been much better as far as early issues go. There isn't a single half-ton truck that has had a transmission with zero issues. The 2nd gen Tundra had issues with the AB60. The 4th gen Tundra has had reports of transmission issues. The Ford 10-speed has had a variety of issues since it first went into production. Even the Ram's ZF transmission has had issues from time to time. They have had to make design changes to components in both the current generation of Ram 1500's and the previous generation of Ram 1500's.
@@karlschauff7989 I can't speak for the newer Toyota's, but my 2015 Tacoma has been perfectly reliable, with nothing but engine oil and differential oil changes and a 60k mile standard service. Besides the higher fuel cost, it has been absolutely perfect over 9 years. It's the 4 liter V6 and 6 speed manual with 4x4. Maybe the second gen was peak Toyota reliability before regulations and the consumer want for more performance and luxuries has made them stray from their old mindset of simpler and proven tech is better than newer and more complex tech (drivetrain tech, not screens and heat seater kind of tech). Sadly she will have to go when family planning since it's an access cab and the wife doesn't want kids riding in the back seat area.
I want to love this 3.0L so bad. I feel the radiator shouldn't have gone out that soon. 17 years in automotive and I've never seen a rad go that early. They have been plastic and aluminum for a long time. The water pump shouldn't have gone yet, either.
However, i think your 120k review was on the first gen 3.0L? I've heard the new one, the one you just got has fixed some of those issues. I'd love to see a review on that one. See the differences. Im torn between what im getting for a new truck in 2 years. This is a truck in my top 3. I feel all vehicles have issues and recalls. It's a matter of figuring out which ones you want to deal with. If it isn't this truck, it's one of the toyotas. Even the new tundra and tacoma has some issues. Hopefully, all 3 work the kinks out.
I"m with you. My '16 ltz 6.2 is still running strong at 164k and but I'll retire this truck to the farm/small trip useage and get a new daily driver and am considering the 3.0 in a ZR2, LTZ, or High Country. I'm not yet sold on the long term reliability of the 3.0 baby diesel. I want to love it but my instinct tells me otherwise.
Given the issues with oil consumption, would be very nice to have an oil level gauge ;)
Dont get one! Great truck but I had major repairs that would of been 40K in repairs at 36000 miles.
@@howtowanderlust You're one of the only people I have heard that has had negative things to say about the engine. Even in the GM truck forums nobody is complaining about the engine. It's basically a copy of the diesel engine used by BMW that everyone also raves about.
@@freidrichnietzsche6643 The oil consumption issue with the LM2 3.0 dmax was caused by a defective valve cover with an issue with an internal baffle that was allowing engine oil to get sucked up the crankcase ventilation tube and into the engine. There's a TSB for it and a redesigned part that eliminates the issue. That defect is also what caused his glow plugs to fail since the engine oil fouled up the glowplugs. It may have played a role in his EGR issue as well, but since he was using the wrong oil for the engine, that could cause issues too.
@@hochhaul Maybe I got a lemon. I had multiple upper oil pan and coolant leaks that required major repairs that were just barely covered by warranty. $24,000 the first time. The second time could have been due to bad maintenance from the dealership that fixed the oil issue.
Other than that I loved the truck, I towed near max across country through the mountains and it did great. I just couldn’t risk a 3rd $20,000 repair as my truck had just over 36k miles.
Beautiful farm! Where is this?
Thanks. We are down in southern Oregon. -Robert
I was all set to buy one until I found out they no longer offer an extended range fuel tank. I work in remote areas and often drive 400 miles without passing a gas station. I don't really want to carry a jerry can of diesel fuel in my tool box. The idea that a 90 litre tank is sufficient because of the improved fuel economy is short sighted. That all changes when you hit bad roads, off-road, snow, etc. They also don't offer leather seats in the 40/20/40 configuration, and the massive useless center console digs into my knee when I drive with cruise control. I can't buy another Ford because the seats are excruciatingly uncomfortable. I may have to just retire or buy an HD Ram
Only issues I’ve had so far after 3 years are: squeaky leaf springs on rear, brake pad wear (rear), fuel filter housing is kinda garbage, only 1 viable aftermarket delete kit/tuning option.
Did you fix your squeaky leaf springs? I had this issue on a 2014 Silverado and changing the plastic inserts on the back end of the leafs fixed it. A lot of guys would throw out the entire leaf spring pack or put a bunch of grease in between the leafs but that usually doesn't keep the problem away.
Nice video. 100k warranty? Is that standard? Thank you
Yes, for the 3.0
🔥🔥🔥
So how is it on tires? My Tundra chews through them like butter. Rotors as well, but that's more on me and the 5000 lbs boat I tow most of the time.
That has to do with how you drive / where you drive it. All highway driving without towing your tires and brakes will wear less assuming you dont sit on the brake pedal like some people do. Stop and go / city driving will always wear through tires me. Also getting all season tires instead of all terrain will play a factor.
Don’t drive it like you stole it or buy a 2500
You were using a regular 20,000 mile Dexos 1oil for gasoline engines? Isn't this supposed to use Dexos D 0W-20 oil, the most rare oil on the planet it seems? If it uses too much oil, would there be an issue upgrading the viscosity to 5W-30, at least in the summer months?
There is a TSB for his engine involving the valve cover. The supplier of the valve cover had a bad plastic weld that isn't visible from the outside and causes engine oil to get sucked into the breather. This can eventually lead to the glow plugs getting fouled and failing. There is a redesigned part that addresses this issue and should eliminate the oil consumption. You are correct in that he's using the wrong kind of oil. NEVER use engine oil that isn't formulated for diesel engines. It has the potential to damage the emissions equipment, possible even clogging the EGR cooler.
These engines have bearing clearances specifically selected for use with 0W20. You can unintentionally cause more wear and damage by using a heavier oil.
How often do you replace your fuel filters?
There is a filter minder on the dash that gives you recommended change reminder. I think I only changed it two or 3 times in those miles.
I do mine about every 40 000 kilometres.
Had a shimy? I've owned at least 20 trucks in my life and my 23 Duramax Silverado with Z71 rides better than any other truck by a mile!!! It's like a Cadillac on the highway.
Love my GMC Sierra, has had some issues. Warped rotors, oil leak, water pump leak, and 80k miles I'm getting concerned about the transmission.
That’s some bad issues
My Ford has the same 10 speed transmission with the same problems.
How much are you selling your old one for?
What oil do you use? Which mobil 1 product?
I’ve been using the mobile one synthetic extended performance, but think I am going to switch to something else on my new one. -Robert
@@TheOregonTale i don’t believe the extended performance line was desgined for diesel engines or has any diesel certifications
I have the same 2020 3.0
Unfortunately I haven’t had the same luck as you. To the contrary.
I’m currently at 58K miles and mine has lived most of the last year at the dealership.
Most of my problems have been anything and everything related to the cooling system. Leaking radiator like you’re, multiple Coolant leaks in hoses and fittings. “Replacing a $2400 radiator at 38 thousand miles isn’t acceptable”
Rear breaks went to 3% last year at 40K ish miles. While the fronts are still at 70% ? What’s up with that!
As of right now, my Silverado has been in the shop over 20 times and I’m about $12,000 out of pocket for repairs “not powertrain related”
My Silverado is currently at the dealership waiting on GM to send a replacement Turbo.
After this replacement, I’m getting rid of it. Total Lemon 🍋
Radiator wasn’t under power train?
Sounds like a GM product
@@MrSmurf459 isn’t that ironic? Nope apparently theres a list of items that are specific to the Motor, transmission but hardly any components that help it run.
Imaging having your check engine light come on, you take your 2.5 year old truck into the shop and they casually give you a $10,000.00 estimate?! I mean are you kidding me ?
Wow. That’s a bummer David. Sorry to hear you’ve had a bad one. Sounds like a lemon for sure. Been fortunate on mine that any maintenance I was always able to get it into the shop and it never left me. I definitely think the radiators are a common one on this.
Sounds like you had stuck calipers. GM has been using Akebono calipers and rotors since 2014 and as long as your slide pins aren't stuck, they should last well over 100k miles depending on how much and how heavy you tow. The rotors in particular are some of the best OEM rotors I've seen thanks to the nitrided finish they use. Several years in the rust belt and still mostly rust free.
Bud, you need to start using the recommended amsoil 0-20 dextros D. Your going to have a lot more problems using that gas engine oil, it’s not rated for light duty diesels.
GMC 3.0 AT4
North Carolina?
His name is Oregon Tale...
Seems the stock battery on these has very short life. Got less than 2 years out of mine. Buddy had the same experience with 2 Chevys.
Had the same issues with my Subaru and my Toyota. Seems to be common with all makes now days.
Where do you live…omg that’s gorgeous
The skeleton in the closet some owners are now talking about as the mileage on these 3.0 gets toward the oil pump drive belt and the engine timing chain maintenance intervals of 150,000 miles (LM2) and 200,000 miles (LZ0). Dealerships are quoting 40 hrs. labour alone for the timing chain and 8 hrs. labour on the oil pump belt. $7,500 for this required maintenance. As these traded-in models arrive on lots beware. Love the performance and mpg but wow...
who knows who you talked to or how you quoted your numbers...
demon works did a break down of this on youtube...a detailed breakdown of the oil belt ...
3k repair bill max... not 7500
also if you drive 15k miles per year which is normal... you would not see this repair until almost 13.5 years of ownership (LZO)
Sounds like a lot of warranty items for 100k
Don’t forget it’s the first design of that engine (LM2). Things have changed over the years. Now it’s the LZ0 with steel pistons and Better cooling and turbo design.
@@hammer-r Actually 25% of the motor has improved. It's DIALED
Most of the warranty items were due to one part that had a TSB out for it that he was unaware existed. The supplier for the valve cover had an undetected defect in a plastic weld internally that allows engine oil to get sucked up a ventilation tube and into the engine. That causes the oil consumption. This engine oil causes the glow plugs to get fouled up and fail. Had the valve cover been replaced, the oil consumption would have gone away and the glow plugs wouldn't have failed.
Shake at higher speeds is a Chevrolet problem. Well a very strong possibility is the drive shaft. The singular long design creates wobble
I would take a single length drive shaft any day. That carrier bearing on the 2007 on up chevys was a pain.
Getting close to replace the belt on the belt driven oil pump before it pops and destroy your engine
If that would happen the engine would shut itself down before that happened.
The belt on the engine that "I Do Cars" tore down looked like it was in good shape for having nearly 150k miles on it. The same guy has torn down Ford 2.7 Ecoboosts with the same belt that looked terrible at 96k miles. Unburned gasoline that ends up in the engine oil breaks the belts down prematurely, but they seem to tolerate diesel fine. Funny how people rave about the reliability of Honda engines with rubber timing belts, but as soon as a belt is used to turn an oil pump that is such a light load compared to turning a valvetrain, the clowns come out to act like it's going to fail at any moment. If your oil pump belt snaps from a severe shock load, your engine was already failing before it broke. Ford's 1.0 Ecoboost belts disintegrate due to the garbage tensioner design and the gasoline degrading it.
Even a chain would need to be serviced by 200k miles, which is the service interval of the belt on the LZ0 3.0 Duramax.
I also have a 2020 3.0l. I’m curious,did you replace the oil pump drive belt at 100,000 per the manual or just push it until you replaced the truck?
its 150k intervals
Hi there. I believe the manual said 150k. The newer model got is 200k. -Robert
Correct LM2 150 and 200 on the LZO
@@user-bd2tx6no8bAnd the belt part number didn't change so I'll be pushing my LM2 closer to the 200 mark before I change it.
Don’t worry about that till you need to rebuild the tranny. Or you lose oil pressure.
Awesome homestead
Long idling on all new diesels is horrible for the emission systems....
Thankfully I never had any emissions issues on this. Did a lot of idling, but I think I offset it with a ton of highway for passive regen to blow it out. Also ran it as bone stock, only mod was a K&N drop in filter. -Robert
Ok vendame esa cuando compre la nueva. Barata eh!😂😂😂😂😂😂
I have read a lot about how people really like the 3.0. And the new 3.0 is supposed to be even better (The LZO)
But people pls don’t do extended oil changes on a diesel. These engines are already running oil as thin as water. And diesels tend to really mess there oil up with soot. Soot is abrasive and the last thing you want is abrasive oil in your truck.
Yea I’d never go 10,000 miles on any oil, let alone diesel. I change mine at about 5,000. I hope that it’s a reasonable amount.
Yeah definitely going back to standard intervals with my new one. And yes the 0w20 they run in these is sure thin compared to the old 15w40. -Robert
Yep, I do it every 5K on mine with the Delco 0W-20.
"These engines are already running oil as thin as water. And diesels tend to really mess there oil up with soot. Soot is abrasive and the last thing you want is abrasive oil in your truck."
It may surprise you to learn that direct injection gasoline engines generate the same kind of soot that modern diesel engines do. That soot also ends up in the engine oil and is a big part of why so many modern GDI engines have issues with timing chain stretch and AFM lifter failures. The biggest issue is that people have been fooled into believing that fancy full synthetic oils are so advanced and hold up so well that you can go 7k or 10k or even 20k miles on the same oil. Full synthetic oils don't have some magical additive that can remove the find abrasive soot that GDI and diesel engines make. Oil filters can't even capture this soot. 5k miles is the absolute maximum and that's if it's almost entirely highway miles. If there are a lot of short trips, especially in the winter, it should be done well before 5k miles.
A Californian on his " lil " patch of heaven.....
Toyota Tacoma - 120,000 miles. I’ve never even seen the check engine light. Lol
Which gen? Probably not a 3rd gen... aka the "turd gen" as we liked to call it on the TacomaWorld forums. Rated least reliable midsize truck by Consumer Reports for like 3 or 4 years in a row due to engine issues, transmission issues, rear diff failures, howling rear diffs. 2GR's blowing up like crazy at around 100k miles despite being owned by well-known members that know how to maintain their truck. Some of them probably blew up because some guys don't realize that back around 2010 or 2011 Toyota changed their new vehicle warranty to say that it's "normal" for their engines to burn 1 quart every 1200 miles or over 4 quarts of oil between 5000 mile oil changes. Plenty of Toyota owners have found out the hard way when their engine suddenly throws a rod while towing up a mountain.
Nobody cares about your shtty Tacoma dude. The 3rd gens are total junk lol. Anyone that sees this post should go over to the Tacoma World forums and look at all the terrible issues with them. Junk rear diffs howling and Toyota brushes them off with "it's just a resonance" when it's so loud the stereo can't even hide the noise. High pressure fuel pumps failing at 40k miles. Engine coolant leaks on the back of the engine that are a royal PITA to fix. There's a huge list of guys reports that their 2GR 3.5L blew up -- it's a mediocre engine that's been known for engines suddenly failing without explanation. I had a highlander with that engine that started acting like it had a coolant leak. Dealer tore it down, expecting to find a head gasket leak. Nope. Cylinder wall had a crack in it. Turns out it's quite common with the junk 2GR. Same with leaking external oil lines, ECU's that just decide to fail, major oil consumption issues, and random bearing failures. Tons of 3rd gen owners with transmission issues too. It's really quite hilarious how clueless car reviewers make a point to mention the "legendary" reliability of the Tacoma when the 3rd gen was rated least reliable midsize truck for multiple years as guy above mentioned.
So how much ya selling the old one for lol
👍 just sold it.
Your oil change intervals will need to be changed. every 5K.