I watched this video before I did my oil pan, but I didn't follow it to a T. Lo and behold the oil pan leaked. It's been 4 months since then and I am finally trying again. This time I will follow every direction. Like you said, we learn most of our lessons the hard way!
The single most stressful part in building a miata engine imo. This is how its done, and it doesnt leak if you follow this video. I learnt how from this video 🙏
Glad it was helpful! There are always tricks to doing things and I am showing what I have learned over the years of building engines, chassis, etc. All the little tricks have proven to be successful so far!
Holy shit man, thank you! I have a '97 NA with a BAAAD oil leak, need to get it fixed for as cheap as I can and this gives me a really good idea on what needs to be done!
I installed the oil pan. I also purchased the Valco tool. Wow! That tool made it very easy to run an even bead of Ultra Black. So I will let this set up and hopefully, No Leaks. Thank you for the video and the advice.
Just found this video. Been using Ultra Grey for 20+ years on my Honda as a replacement for Hondabond. I resealed a CX5 trans pan with OEM Mazda sealant, and it seems to be the same stuff. So I got a whole caulk tube of Ultra Grey for my Miata resealing project. I did have leaking issues for years with Ultra Grey by torquing bolts immediately. On the CX5 trans pan I did the finger tight 1 hour then torque, and it hasn’t leaked a bit. So I guess I’ll keep on doing that on the Miata.
This was an amazing video, thank you for the help recently got me a 1990 and im rebuilding the engine ( my first time ) this helped me be confident on this job !
Thank you for your content and knowledge sharing. I was hoping you would comment on whether you recommend using a paper gasket with the little rubber bead that goes around the circumference (Mahle makes one for a nissan rogue) or using high temp RTV gasket maker instead. I prefer using rubber gaskets when possible, but sometimes they are not available for certain car applications Thank you for your time in this matter
What's your take on using sealant with a cork oil pan gasket? I've got a Ford Courier with the stock Mazda 1.8 and the factory manual calls out putting the OEM Mazda sealant on both the pan and the block. Have you seen that work well in your experience or just use one or the other?
Timing could not be better, I am waiting for my factory pan seals right now! I have a 97k motor, both front and rear crank seals were dry, however both front and rear oil pan seal locations have failed!
im trying to buy a 1997 miata at the moment and he said that the oil pan was recently changed with brand new pan and gasket and a brand new rear main seal as well! but he is saying that sone bits of oil tries to leak because it is missing a couple bolts...is that possible if it has a new gasket?
Hard to answer without knowing more details on missing bolts. There is a reason that there are so many bolts, so if you are missing a few next to each other, an oil leak would make sense. I would inspect everything very carefully before moving forward on that purchase.
I’ve resealed my motor 4 times and am about to give up on this motor. Every seal keeps blowing after around 500 miles. valve cover, cas doing, cam seals, front and rear main, and oil pan. Now it also appears the head gasket failed and is ejecting oil as well.dont get what the issue is
On my 3rd attempt with the engine out of the car. So discouraging. Half moon FelPro gaskets both times. Following everything in this video. Just ordered Mazda OEM gaskets. Any suggestions on what im doing wrong? The smallest leak front of engine. So discouraging that I want to just sell the car 😔.
I have seen Permatex Ultra Black and various others mentioned for the silicone sealant. Looks like you used Ultra Grey. Use the same as a thin film on the rear RMS plate or the oil pump? Any advantages of one over another? Thanks, Mark.
Just saw that you asked another question. Yes I use ultra grey on the rear plate however on the front for the oil pump I use the gasket that all of the 1.6 engine cars used, even on the later model engines. The 1.8's used an o ring up front. I'll retain that o ring and install the gasket on top of that. Works like a charm! Good luck!
Hey Marc - You, or anyone really, can head on over to Mazdaspeed Motorsports and order one of my Miata Oil Pan Baffle Plates at tinyurl.com/mazdaspeedms Thanks for watching!
Great Video!! I have to change oil pan on my 2005 Ford Focus 2.0L Duratec. I will be using the Ulta Black. According to the Permatex directions, even with the Ultra gray, It states to "Finger tighten until material begins to squeeze out around flange. Then, let dry one hour and tighten to torque Spec." I see you did not wait one hour. You tightened the pan down all at once without waiting the one hour. I just want to make sure I do this right the first time with NO leaks. What do you recommend? Waiting or just torque? The pan to crankcase torque spec is 18 in lbs, oil pan to bell housing is 35 in lbs and the front bolts are 89 in lbs. Thank you again for the great video. Any information you can render will be greatly appreciated!
I do it just like the video shows. Put it on, with just enough ultra grey then tighten the pan down in the correct pattern and torque. That works for me, but like I say, there are many ways to do these things, but I have a good amount of success with the way I do things, so I just keep that process going. Take your time and do it well. Torque is a great thing to follow.
@@jpm Thank you for responding. Luckily the oil pan on this vehicle is easy to get to and remove. I spent more time cleaning the surfaces than removing and installing. Worst case, I may have to repeat process.
I bought the god damn $22 tube squezer.... is this the 2inch or the 2.5? I bought 2'' and a tube of Permatex ultra black I swapped engine didnt do any gaskets, got 5k miles so many leaks engine is out now on stand
Glad you got it done. Might say that you didn’t need that much permatex though. As I said in the video - every bit that squeezes out on the outside is probably squeezing out on the inside where there are moving parts. It’s a learned thing that takes time. Hopefully the squeezer tool was a nice addition to the toolbox.
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I watched this video before I did my oil pan, but I didn't follow it to a T. Lo and behold the oil pan leaked. It's been 4 months since then and I am finally trying again. This time I will follow every direction. Like you said, we learn most of our lessons the hard way!
The single most stressful part in building a miata engine imo.
This is how its done, and it doesnt leak if you follow this video.
I learnt how from this video 🙏
Much appreciated!
Man, that tube squeeze tool was worth the time watching this highly professional video. Have one on the way. Good content!
I use them every day! Thanks for watching!
I needed this video, thanks so much for being specific with sealant underneath the half moon seals. So many other videos where not specific about this
Glad it was helpful! There are always tricks to doing things and I am showing what I have learned over the years of building engines, chassis, etc. All the little tricks have proven to be successful so far!
Holy shit man, thank you! I have a '97 NA with a BAAAD oil leak, need to get it fixed for as cheap as I can and this gives me a really good idea on what needs to be done!
Glad to help! Best of luck!
Really appreciate this video, just sealed mine up following your guide & looks exactly like yours! Thanks
That’s what I like to hear! Thanks for watching!
I installed the oil pan. I also purchased the Valco tool. Wow! That tool made it very easy to run an even bead of Ultra Black. So I will let this set up and hopefully, No Leaks. Thank you for the video and the advice.
Glad to hear it helped you as much as it does me - Best of luck and thanks for watching.
I’m watching this over and over while my block and crank is at the machine shop
It is always the little things that make the biggest difference!
Just found this video. Been using Ultra Grey for 20+ years on my Honda as a replacement for Hondabond. I resealed a CX5 trans pan with OEM Mazda sealant, and it seems to be the same stuff. So I got a whole caulk tube of Ultra Grey for my Miata resealing project.
I did have leaking issues for years with Ultra Grey by torquing bolts immediately. On the CX5 trans pan I did the finger tight 1 hour then torque, and it hasn’t leaked a bit. So I guess I’ll keep on doing that on the Miata.
This was an amazing video, thank you for the help
recently got me a 1990 and im rebuilding the engine ( my first time ) this helped me be confident on this job !
Glad it helped and thanks for watching - Hope your first build is a success!
thanks for the detailed video, very helpful
Glad it was helpful and thanks for watching
This is a terrific video. Thanks very much.
Glad you enjoyed it. Hopefully it helps!
Thank you for your content and knowledge sharing. I was hoping you would comment on whether you recommend using a paper gasket with the little rubber bead that goes around the circumference (Mahle makes one for a nissan rogue) or using high temp RTV gasket maker instead. I prefer using rubber gaskets when possible, but sometimes they are not available for certain car applications Thank you for your time in this matter
The stubby ratchet is ideal for tightening to aluminum, and sometimes I go half grip on the stubby to be safe.
Solid practice there. Self limiting doesn’t always work.
Do you still make that baffle? Considering buying one for my street car miata wanted to get more info!
What's your take on using sealant with a cork oil pan gasket? I've got a Ford Courier with the stock Mazda 1.8 and the factory manual calls out putting the OEM Mazda sealant on both the pan and the block. Have you seen that work well in your experience or just use one or the other?
Cork squeezes out a lot so I'd be very careful with them. Yes, I'd use silicone with one though. One or the other should work well.
Timing could not be better, I am waiting for my factory pan seals right now! I have a 97k motor, both front and rear crank seals were dry, however both front and rear oil pan seal locations have failed!
Right on! Always good when the timing works out!
Awesome job man thank u this is gonna help me in a long run 🏃♂️ 😅
Happy to help!
im trying to buy a 1997 miata at the moment and he said that the oil pan was recently changed with brand new pan and gasket and a brand new rear main seal as well! but he is saying that sone bits of oil tries to leak because it is missing a couple bolts...is that possible if it has a new gasket?
Hard to answer without knowing more details on missing bolts. There is a reason that there are so many bolts, so if you are missing a few next to each other, an oil leak would make sense. I would inspect everything very carefully before moving forward on that purchase.
I’ve resealed my motor 4 times and am about to give up on this motor. Every seal keeps blowing after around 500 miles. valve cover, cas doing, cam seals, front and rear main, and oil pan. Now it also appears the head gasket failed and is ejecting oil as well.dont get what the issue is
On my 3rd attempt with the engine out of the car. So discouraging. Half moon FelPro gaskets both times. Following everything in this video. Just ordered Mazda OEM gaskets. Any suggestions on what im doing wrong? The smallest leak front of engine. So discouraging that I want to just sell the car 😔.
Quality gaskets sets are always the key, plus my tips, should get you where you need to be.
Isn't there a bolting sequence on the oil pan too??
Not really. A little at a time working your way around.
Jesse I am guessing that extra plate is not allowed in a Spec Miata Class?
Unfortunately it is not. But it doesn't hurt to write a letter to the CRB and request it!
whats the sealant youre using?
Permatex ultra black for the most part on oil items, but sometimes ultra grey for high torque and vibration environments.
I have seen Permatex Ultra Black and various others mentioned for the silicone sealant. Looks like you used Ultra Grey. Use the same as a thin film on the rear RMS plate or the oil pump? Any advantages of one over another? Thanks, Mark.
Either will work. The ultra black has a higher oil resistance, but, done right, like the video shows, I’ve never had a problem.
Thanks for asking!
Just saw that you asked another question. Yes I use ultra grey on the rear plate however on the front for the oil pump I use the gasket that all of the 1.6 engine cars used, even on the later model engines. The 1.8's used an o ring up front. I'll retain that o ring and install the gasket on top of that. Works like a charm! Good luck!
Good day Jesse looking to get one of those baffle plates from you how would I go about doing so?
Hey Marc - You, or anyone really, can head on over to Mazdaspeed Motorsports and order one of my Miata Oil Pan Baffle Plates at tinyurl.com/mazdaspeedms
Thanks for watching!
@@jpm great thanks is it available for the 99-06 or only 06 and up ?
@@marcmckenzie7723 their designed for all miata engines 1990-2005. The NC cars are completely different.
@@jpm is there a part#
Sorry for all the questions just a bit unsure how to find and order this part through the website.
The time you left to cure?
24 hours minimum.
Great Video!! I have to change oil pan on my 2005 Ford Focus 2.0L Duratec. I will be using the Ulta Black. According to the Permatex directions, even with the Ultra gray, It states to "Finger tighten until material begins to squeeze out around flange. Then, let dry one hour and tighten to torque Spec." I see you did not wait one hour. You tightened the pan down all at once without waiting the one hour. I just want to make sure I do this right the first time with NO leaks.
What do you recommend? Waiting or just torque? The pan to crankcase torque spec is 18 in lbs, oil pan to bell housing is 35 in lbs and the front bolts are 89 in lbs.
Thank you again for the great video. Any information you can render will be greatly appreciated!
Sorry, its 18 ft lbs and 35 ft lbs, not in lbs.
I do it just like the video shows. Put it on, with just enough ultra grey then tighten the pan down in the correct pattern and torque. That works for me, but like I say, there are many ways to do these things, but I have a good amount of success with the way I do things, so I just keep that process going.
Take your time and do it well. Torque is a great thing to follow.
@@jpm Thank you for responding. Luckily the oil pan on this vehicle is easy to get to and remove. I spent more time cleaning the surfaces than removing and installing. Worst case, I may have to repeat process.
Cleaning the mating surfaces is exactly where your time should be spent - nice work!
Could you show how it is done while the motor is in the car? That is the hard part.
It would be a rare thing for me to do that, but it is possible if you lower the subframe.
FYI -
Here is how to access the oil pan while the engine is in the car. - th-cam.com/video/kuGdyHYNEs8/w-d-xo.html
I bought the god damn $22 tube squezer.... is this the 2inch or the 2.5? I bought 2'' and a tube of Permatex ultra black I swapped engine didnt do any gaskets, got 5k miles so many leaks engine is out now on stand
I use the 2 inch version. Works great and gets every last bit out.
@@jpm good to know! thanks hopefully mine turns out this good
@@jpm She's all on and good ! I used about a whole tube of permetex ultra black just on the pan alone!
Glad you got it done. Might say that you didn’t need that much permatex though. As I said in the video - every bit that squeezes out on the outside is probably squeezing out on the inside where there are moving parts. It’s a learned thing that takes time. Hopefully the squeezer tool was a nice addition to the toolbox.