I also asked you this. :) Subframe removal SUCKED, but given the space in my Garage it's all I could do. FYI to those looking to pull the engine and trans, make sure you drain the transmission or use a plug at the driveshaft hole.
Thanks RG you have several good points. Sub frame removal sucks no matter how great your day or month is going. RG shouldn't all of them wear a little 90W on them at some point? How many times have you been on the wrong end of a trans trying to pull it out on your back? I bet you still have that image in your mind.
can you please spell out exactly what needs to happen for removing the subframe? I want to gauge if I can do it at home - whilst it seems more time consuming, it certainly seems simpler and less room for breaking anything?
@@guitaristanime It's the same work, except you have less room, are in more uncomfortable situations, and get to re-seal your pan with your engine HANGING above your head and limited lighting. It's GREAT! I did it in a 10.5" wide garage and will never do that again! Lining everything back up is also a real PITA, the momennt you hang your engine, it'll shift from the body a bit... this makes re-assembly incredibly difficult if you're alone as you'll need to line up the engine to the engine mount while lining up the subframe to the body and hope you don't cross-thread one of the large bolts holding it on. It's definitely not simpler, and I would not recommend it. SIDE NOTE: make sure you confirm why you're removing it. Turns out what I thought was my oil pan seal, was a turbo fitting that leaked and flicked oil at that area....
@@frenchmanremy thanks thats really helpful Mine is the complete opposite, my turbo drain was fitted with chemical metal. Its leaking, i cant see way to fix it without removing the pan and putting a new pannwith welded fitment. Do you have any other ideas? I really don't want to remove the pan...
I am looking at pulling the engine also, it’s leaking from everywhere it seems. Could you do a video on tips and tricks to make it quicker and/or easier. Thanks for doing these, I’ve learned a lot from your channel.
Love your videos! Can you do a video on installing engine mounts? This is something I'd like to try myself, but I'm somewhat of a novice mechanic, and jacking up the engine is a bit daunting.. Thanks!! -Nate
I like to just take the engine out , I'm fast at the bell housing bolts/starter. It takes more hassle , and mess pulling my interior , driveshaft ,exhaust,rear bolts on PPF,etc..
So I have a question. Mechanic told me my miata 1999 mx-5 has a oil pan gasket leak that is causing oil to get on the belt? If the oil pan is pretty low and far from the belts, how could it possibly get on the belts and cause them to slip??
I also asked you this. :) Subframe removal SUCKED, but given the space in my Garage it's all I could do. FYI to those looking to pull the engine and trans, make sure you drain the transmission or use a plug at the driveshaft hole.
Thanks RG you have several good points. Sub frame removal sucks no matter how great your day or month is going. RG shouldn't all of them wear a little 90W on them at some point? How many times have you been on the wrong end of a trans trying to pull it out on your back? I bet you still have that image in your mind.
@@aracing three times! The second time I had a plug 3D printed for convenience! No drips, no fluid change!
can you please spell out exactly what needs to happen for removing the subframe? I want to gauge if I can do it at home - whilst it seems more time consuming, it certainly seems simpler and less room for breaking anything?
@@guitaristanime It's the same work, except you have less room, are in more uncomfortable situations, and get to re-seal your pan with your engine HANGING above your head and limited lighting. It's GREAT! I did it in a 10.5" wide garage and will never do that again! Lining everything back up is also a real PITA, the momennt you hang your engine, it'll shift from the body a bit... this makes re-assembly incredibly difficult if you're alone as you'll need to line up the engine to the engine mount while lining up the subframe to the body and hope you don't cross-thread one of the large bolts holding it on. It's definitely not simpler, and I would not recommend it. SIDE NOTE: make sure you confirm why you're removing it. Turns out what I thought was my oil pan seal, was a turbo fitting that leaked and flicked oil at that area....
@@frenchmanremy thanks thats really helpful
Mine is the complete opposite, my turbo drain was fitted with chemical metal. Its leaking, i cant see way to fix it without removing the pan and putting a new pannwith welded fitment.
Do you have any other ideas? I really don't want to remove the pan...
I am looking at pulling the engine also, it’s leaking from everywhere it seems. Could you do a video on tips and tricks to make it quicker and/or easier.
Thanks for doing these, I’ve learned a lot from your channel.
I will see what I can do Road
Great info, keep them coming!
Thanks, will do!
Love your videos! Can you do a video on installing engine mounts? This is something I'd like to try myself, but I'm somewhat of a novice mechanic, and jacking up the engine is a bit daunting.. Thanks!! -Nate
Sure I can, thats a good idea.
Exactly what I was looking for!
You are the GOAT
Im the Miata God Father
I like to just take the engine out , I'm fast at the bell housing bolts/starter. It takes more hassle , and mess pulling my interior , driveshaft ,exhaust,rear bolts on PPF,etc..
So I have a question. Mechanic told me my miata 1999 mx-5 has a oil pan gasket leak that is causing oil to get on the belt? If the oil pan is pretty low and far from the belts, how could it possibly get on the belts and cause them to slip??
What changes if you do have access to a lift? Kinda sounds like nothing? Still pull the engine and trans? -- Thanks
All so featured your question on Q&A Monday
My buddy Miata Mike