Manual Mesh Bed Leveling Ender 3 -- Free and easy to install solution to a warped bed
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 ต.ค. 2020
- This video is a complete guide to installing and using Manual Mesh Bed Leveling with Marlin 2 on your Ender 3 with the Bigtreetech SKR Mini E3 V2. This is a completely free and easy to implement solution to a warped bed and will ensure that you get a perfect 3d print.
Download Visual Studio Code
code.visualstudio.com/download
PlatformIO website
platformio.org/
Bigtreetech Github page
github.com/bigtreetech
Awesome video ! thanks a lot ! I was scratching my head and thinking why my mesh wasn't getting activated before each print...it turns out it was OFF! so I added M420 S1 to my start gcode after G28 and now it's working perfectly!
Thanks!
Excellent video, thank you!
My man! This is excellent.
Thank you taking the time to make these videos, I and many more noobies really appreciate them. When I do bed levelling ( 3 times, 1 after the other ) I have been taking a note of them in Exel and they are never the same.The middle of the bed the first time was -0.052.....second -0.325 third time 0.400. I'm using a feeler gauge 1mm thick. thank you again Please stay safe
Hello Bill Martin...a 1mm feeler gauge is too thick! You should use an ordinary piece of paper. I typically use a sticky note. After a while you'll get a sense of what feels right when setting each point on the mesh. Again, you need to be able to pull the paper out but it can't be too easy or too hard. There is a Goldilocks point that is just right. You get a feel for it after a while. All the best. RG
There are many videos out there .... but as a german guy they don't work for me ... too complicated.
This video is great and with your help I managed it to activate and configure mesh bed leveling on my Ender 3 Pro with SKR Mini E3 V1.2.
So thanks a lot for your help ! :-) and keep on the good work....btw, you are having a new subscriber now ;-)
I'm really happy to hear that you found this video helpful. It means a lot to me. And thanks for subscribing!
Thanks for this video! I'm going to try this out now. I didn't know that G28 reset the mesh and I had no clue why my mesh wasn't working on my E3V2. I finally found that adding M420 S1 to the start code after the G28 will enable the mesh, but this solution is just cleaner.
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Hello Bill, Thank you for your time and effort to share your knowledge. I came here to look at the mesh bed leveling but have to say that the overview at the beginning of what software you'll want, Visual Studio Code and PlatformIO, are equally as helpful.
Regarding the mesh leveling I've watched a number of videos and none of them have been able to get me to understand how it works in conjunction with the Auto Home Z Zero setting. my question is, once you have a mesh and have activated it etc., how/where do you now set your Z home zero position ? Possibly related, what is the purpose and behavior of the 'Bed Z: 0.000' menu item under the Bed Leveling menu ?
Regards, Jay
Hello Jay. Thanks for watching the video and I'm glad you found it somewhat helpful. As regards to your question, I'm not really sure what you're asking. Setting the mesh bed leveling parameters is done independently of any homing instructions. Whatever the home point is for your printer should remain unchanged. As far as Bed Z is concerned it is similar to babystepping, but as I understand it whatever change you make is saved to the mesh. So Bed Z allows you to move the nozzle closer or further away from the bed and then saves that movement to your entire mesh. I've never actually used it though so I can't give you specifics on how to use properly. If you decide to use it, be careful not to smash the nozzle to your bed. If you create a mesh, and it's not quite right, I recommend using babystepping instead to get the z offset just right. That's what I use to get a perfect first layer and it works well. RG
@@CreatewithTech Thank you for the quick response. Using your instructions I'm able to define and activate a good mesh and get a great 1st layer by using the dial on the LCD screen to adjust the height as it's printing. Thanks again.
Although it's working as it should I guess it's just a desire to understand what's going on and where some of the numbers being displayed are coming from.
My procedure has always been to preheat the bed and then use the auto-homing routine on the LCD screen to establish Z zero. I then moved the nozzle over the four adjustment screws and use them bring the bed up to the nozzle with a .10 mm piece of paper everyone is familiar with.
This is Z zero and the screen displays that value. Pretty easy for me to understand.
Using the mesh bed leveling technique I still do the above before capturing the points for the mesh.
However, once the mesh is in place and active and I run the auto home routine the nozzle ends up some distance above the bed (greater than the thickness of the paper) and the LCD screen shows a Z height that doesn't seem to correspond to anything I can relate it to.
As I mentioned, it works well so the software knows what to do with the numbers but I would prefer to understand them myself for my ongoing learning and to allow me to better apply and troubleshoot things in the future.
I suspect the number being displayed has something to do with the adjustments I made to the Z height as it was printing the first layer and maybe some average of the values in the grid but would rather know than guess.
New Subscriber.
Jay
thank you for the video. does this work with ender 3 v2 4.2.2 board? having a hard time levelling my bed due to warp in the middle section.
Hello kekejuan. In theory this will work with any main board as long as the firmware can be flashed on the board. Here's a video that has everything you'll need for your board... th-cam.com/video/kFRy_5lh2IQ/w-d-xo.html So given that you can update the firmware on your machine, you'll need to go to get the latest firmware for the Ender 3 v2 from the Creality Github page and then enable the mesh bed levelling as per my instructions. I hope this helps.
I have 2 options in firmware, restore after g28 or enable after g28. which one do I uncomment and what do I have to enter in cura for these settings to be used on every print? thanks for the video, I subscribed because this video was the most up to date out of them all and explained clearly
Thank you for the subscription. It's appreciated. I would use the "restore after G28" as you've already enabled the Mesh Bed Leveling in the firmware previously (or at least I did in the video). The difference between the two is nuanced but essentially the Enable option enables mesh bed leveling regardless of its prior state. Just go with the "Restore" option if you're following the video. In your Slicer you can add the M420 S1 command to the "Start G-Code" section and that should enable the mesh every time you send a print. Good luck. RG
Hi, just want to know, is this marlin firmware has resume function if power loss?
Hello PivotaLideA...the power loss resume function is not on by default. If you compile the firmware as explained in the video you can enable the POWER_LOSS_RECOVERY command in the configuration_adv.h file. Here's a link to the Marlin page that explains how this works: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M413.html You need to be aware that the power loss resume function will only work if you're printing from an SD card. It does not work if you're using Octoprint. The reason for this is that the power loss resume function works by writing the coordinates of the printer to the SD card for every layer. This is how it knows where to go to in order to resume a print. Here's a link to a video explaining why it does not work in Octoprint: community.octoprint.org/t/rescue-after-power-failure/9354
Before I do this on my rep rap and ender, how do you have the room to travel downwards after homing. Are we setting the bed higher than the end stop so we have room to map the dips?
I'm not sure what you mean exactly when you say "have the room to travel downwards", but this is what you need to do to get it to work. Basically you need to use the paper method first...so get the four corners of the bed properly leveled with a piece of paper. You should feel a bit of pull on the paper, but you should be able to pull the paper out from beneath the nozzle. If it's really hard to pull the paper from under the nozzle you'll need to move the bed down a bit. Once you do this "Macro" bed leveling with the knobs you'll have some distance to play with between the end of the nozzle and the print bed. Only then should you start the manual mesh bed leveling. The manual mesh bed levelling takes care of the parts of the bed that leveling with the knobs can't deal with. Depending on how many points you have on your mesh grid (this is something that's determined in the firmware) you'll go from point to point and move your nozzle either up or down (depending on how close it is to the bed, again using the paper method) to get the correct offset between the bed and the nozzle. Once you've done all the points just save it to eprom. The software will remember the mesh and will automatically move the z axis up or down according to your mesh values. So if your bed is not 100% flat, the mesh compensates and you'll get a great print every time. Good luck. RG
@@CreatewithTech sorry I'll ask another way, guess I was a b it confusing. I should also clarify this is a rep rap, but it uses marlin all the same.
when z end stop is at zero my edges and corners are all perfectly level. The center has a dip.
The printer cannot go lower by turning the knob when mesh leveling because I'm already at 0 on the z endstop.
Does that make sense? I Understand the procedure of moving the print nozzle up and down while doing the software side of things but my end stop prevents it from traveling below 0 with the edges of the bed at 0 and the center below 0
@@vertigo042 OK, I understand. You need to go into the negative numbers...I actually haven't seen this problem, but after doing a bit of research it's possible that you need to disable //#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z in the Configuration.h file. From what I've read this will allow you to go below 0 into the negative numbers. Did you compile your own firmware.bin file? If so, you can try disabling the above end stop function (assuming that it's enabled) and try it out. Just be aware that this is a suggestion which I have not actually tested so you need to be careful. If you do try it let me know if it works. Good luck. RG
Thanks I just bought the v2.0 board but now is see the new firmware version have corner leveling and only the 9 points
Hello Danny Boutmans: Yes, the default number of points for mesh bed leveling in the supplied Bigtreetech firmware.bin is 9. Since I made the video, I've actually come to the conclusion that 16 points is ideal (at least for me). It gives a fairly high resolution mesh which can be set at a fairly reasonable amount of time. Anyway, I hope you enjoy your new board. It's a fantastic piece of hardware. RG
I really liked your content. Thanks for posting! I did all the processes but it indicates error in LCD_BED_LEVELING, when I comment it is loading the code. I use a TFT-35 E3 lcd, I can't adjust the mesh adjustment steps through the lcd.
My board is an SKR Mini E3 V2.0. How can I resolve this error?
Hello Rubens. I'm glad you enjoy my content. It means a lot to me. I'm not sure I understand the problem that you're having. Do you get an error when compiling the firmware in Virtual Studio Code, or when you try to install the firmware on the printer? If the error happens when the firmware is being compiled in Virtual Studio Code then you've made an error somewhere when setting the parameters as per the instructions in the video. If that's the case I would recommend that you start from scratch again and make sure to follow every step carefully.
@@CreatewithTech Thanks for answering! I'm happy with your comments. Yes, the compilation process error in VS code, it is an error that many are experiencing because of what happens during the process. An error of this weird thing occurred! I was disabled the LCD_BED_LEVEL I compiled, saved the .bin and inserted the card in the printer, after that I went to check what was enabled to do the mesh process, I tested and apparently everything was ok. I didn't understand anything! Everything was in TFT35 v3.0 , mesh menu and everything working. I think this Marlin 2.1.1 must be kind of weird, I don't know.
@@CreatewithTech I haven't seen any videos for meshing with marlin 2.1.1 just earlier, I searched a lot and nothing. If you do with this version, please let me know.
Do I have to activate the leveling manually every time? Can't be automated?
@headcell loading from lcd menu not work. I need to type in octoprint "m420 s01" every time.
So I would prefer the printer to do it itself.
If you have 3v2 do u need a new board?
Actually, with the Ender 3 v2, you're able to flash the board with new firmware without any issues and it comes with a 32 bit board by default. It's only with the older Ender 3 printers that it was more difficult and it made sense to change the main board to a 32 bit board. Here's a video that walks you through the process of updating the firmware on the E3 v2 board: th-cam.com/video/kFRy_5lh2IQ/w-d-xo.html . Before changing anything just make sure that manual mesh bed leveling is not turned on by default on the Ender 3 v2. Good luck! RG
@Jop de Jong As it turns out (I just found this out a couple of days ago) the LCD on the Ender 3 v2 uses proprietary firmware which cannot be modified with a new firmware update of the mainboard. In other words, you can install the manual mesh bed leveling on the Ender 3 v2 mainboard, but you won't be able to see it on the screen. Here's a video that was made a couple of weeks ago explaining this: th-cam.com/video/ToPo8XIOnsY/w-d-xo.html . Apparently there is a non-official project that updates the firmware of the Ender 3 v2 which already has mesh bed leveling enabled by default and which works with the Ender 3 v2 LCD...here's the link: github.com/Jyers/Marlin/tree/Ender_3_V2_Rewrite . Let me know if you figure it out. RG
@Jop de Jong Same here, any fix yet?
All of the squares look as if they have been squished and not like what you show.......
Hello Bill Martin...the reason for that is because your z offset (distance between extruder and bed) is not quite right...when configuring your mesh you need to make sure that the paper calibration is done correctly (you only need to do this once). There should be a bit of a pull on the paper, but you need to be able to remove the paper from under the extruder. If it's too hard to pull the paper out then you're too close to the bed, if it's too easy you're too far away. What you're describing suggests that you need to go back and configure your mesh again. It's really a matter of fine-tuning the distance between the extruder and the bed. Good luck!
idk if its just me, but it looks like you leveled a bed like normal.
Hello 3DMATT...Not sure what you mean...I did level the bed using the wheels (typical low resolution leveling), but additionally I enabled mesh bed leveling in the firmware to create a mesh which adds a much higher resolution. Did you watch the entire video? I think it becomes quite clear what I'm doing 4-5 minutes in. Maybe mesh bed leveling is already enabled on your printer by default, but that's not the case with all printers. Thanks for commenting. RG
I just watched the short video on your channel that you posted. I'm not sure, but it sounds like you've got the original motherboard on your printer. If it's the original 8 bit board, you may not be able to enable mesh bed leveling. Unless you've already done so you'll probably need to replace it with a 32 bit board like this one...
www.amazon.com/BIGTREETECH-Upgraded-Motherboard-Integrated-Compatible/dp/B089CQ3DHB/ref=sr_1_4?crid=YA1NCDPC7IN3&keywords=bigtreetech%2Bskr%2Bmini%2Be3%2Bv3.0&qid=1644759979&sprefix=bigtreetech%2Caps%2C230&sr=8-4&th=1