For other total newbs like me, the M420 S1 is inserted after the G28 line in the start code. If you are using Cura, select your printer from the drop down on the right, click "manage printers", highlight the printer you want, click "machine settings" and the start g-code will be in the lower left corner. Insert a line after the G28 and paste the M420 S1 there.
This may be a dumb quesion the M420 S1 is inserted after the G28 line in the start code am i inserting? M420 S1 G29 A ; Activate the UBL System. G29 L0 ; Load UBL slot 0 G29 J ; 3-point level G29 F10.0 ; Fade to 10mm or just M420 S1 sorry I am learning
This is really useful thank you. After watching dozens of TH-cam videos, l have found yours to be the most informative and I will definitely be getting an Aquila printer
When you do get it. If you see that is has a H32 chipset. Send it back because you won't be able to use any community firmware or any hardware upgrades until voxelab official releases the firmware to support said upgrade
That’s true. Just depends what you want out of your printer. It’s still great with the stock firmware. But it’s true, the h32 isn’t compatible with aftermarket firmware
I've just installed this firmware and followed your video on levelling. Have to say that I'm very impressed with the extra features on this firmware. Next thing is to install the 3DTouch when it arrives then follow your CRTouch video. Your tutorials are very much appreciated.
on my Tevo Tarantula Pro I have an 8 bit board with silent steppers and I added Manual Mesh Bed Leveling. I have a BLTouch but haven't installed it yet.
This may also solve a problem I have not seen addressed anywhere. The added weight of a direct-drive extruder can make the z-axis drift downward as soon as the steppers are disabled for leveling. If the machine keeps the motors "locked" during setup, gravity is one variable not to worry about. I should have done this upgrade over the weekend!
I always enjoy your videos they are very helpful! Because of your videos I purchased my Voxelab Aquila 3D Printer I only own one of the Voxelab Aquila 3D Printers And after finding out with the new H32 chips that you will no longer be able to make software updates without having to pay for them I feel I will not buy another one But your videos will help on the Enders Thanks for the videos!
love what youre doing with the aquila dude i just got a microswiss direct drive mod and i am so stoked to start printing some helmets. ive been looking at alex's software im glad you did a video on it. youre doing great work here!
Levelling active, I believe, is what you click to utilize the mesh created by your BL Touch/Auto Level process. If you uncheck it, it seems to ignore the mesh created by the BL. I think it just restores or "turns on" the mesh you created and saved. I kept running into issues because this setting needs to be toggled on each time the printer is turned back on.
@@3DPrintSOS On that note, even when your click to store the settings, that's one option it seems to ignore. You have to turn it on every time. I suspect that the reason you haven't noticed a difference is because you have a great set up, and your bed is perfectly level anyway. If I forget to turn it on, I get weird stuff happening at the centre of the bed, as I have an imperfection there. I can confirm this because when I do the manual level, the centre point is always out. If I adjust to make it correct, the head is too close at the corners. Therefore, the mesh solves that issue, but I have to remember to turn it on! Edit: Just got to the end of the video, and realised that you mentioned about altering the start GCode. If you do that, then you will never need to turn it on at the printer level. Makes perfect sense, and thank you for mentioning that! Something I never thought of, but going to do that right now!
Hope it’s worked. Also as a side note I’m not sure why I can’t see your previous comments. I see notifications for them but when I click into them, they aren’t there. :/
@@3DPrintSOS Seems to work ok. Got a lovely print thanks to you! Thanks for the gcode tip! I think I had notifications for all your responses, so not quite sure what happened there!
Thank you so much for your vids! I would recommend adding to the title of this one. I almost didn’t watch it because I use a bl touch and thought this was only going to be about manual leveling. Lots of great info on all these settings after updating. Really appreciate it. Your videos are awesome.
I installed this firmware, I chose the 4x4, I have always had a bit of trouble getting this printer to start printing, but could usually manage to get it going and end with "decent" quality. After installing and going through the process for a mesh, I can now "see" why. I'm not entirely sure how a piece of glass could be this far warped, but it is. Left to right the bed is half a mm out, doesn't seem like much, but the middle is domed, now I can see why I always had issues. I just printed a calibration cube and it is just about perfect, the first layer is as perfect as I have ever seen and the rest of the cube looks awesome.
I have watched many of your videos mainly about Voxelab Aquila which have been extremely helpful, I think I would have probably not proceeded very far without your guide. I will soon have had my machine for a year, I have had many successful prints but I do not print all the time. I bought my Aquila through an online auction site that sells excess stock , returns etc. of all sorts from electrical items to furniture and cars and the Aquila was described incorrectly as the X2 which would have had a Filament runout sensor but as it was the earlier model this was not included. The board has a socket labelled as Filament sensor and I would like to add this facility to the machine. The Voxelab sensor to purchase here in the UK is expensive and I would like to know if it is possible to use an alternative without too much difficulty, I intend to update the firmware Alex's as per your video soon I have been waiting for the shorter days. It will be my 80th birthday in December and I will treat myself to a filament sensor. You do not seem to mention filament sensors is there a reason or do you not use one. Keep up the videos there must me more new users that will find them essential. Ray
@@3DPrintSOS That's what I'm doing. I'm only 3 days into my first printer. Only thing I've done so far is double check my e-steps. I got that correct. Printed out some typical extruder knobs and tool boxes. Running some battery mounts for my garage now. Next I'm going to design a simple mount for my roku remote for the garage. My first time designing something in software. Usually in the garage I just start cutting metal. I really appreciate your Aquila videos man. Helps us newbs out a lot
I could use help. When I bottom left home it’ll be in the middle on the bottom center me on the right side in the middle but it does know where right bottom is and top left and right or all fine
The easiest way is to just re-install the stock firmware from the voxelab site. However, that might not be the issue. Just it just freeze or do you get an error? Could be a loose connection or failure in the motherboard.
@@3DPrintSOS wow, you really are a stand up guy, thanks for the swift reply, so im using a first gen aqilla, and it just freezes, whatever screen ur on or in the middle of making adjustments it just poops out, and super random too, i almost finished a full print b4 it froze, and 2day i couldnt even get more then a few layers, what type of laptop would you recomend for doin this kinda work, 3D printing, slicing, data transfer software, ect, and again your super cool to give your time like this and help people, thank you a bunch
@@psycho6542 Hmm. Yeah I think cutting out might be hardware related. But trying to reload firmware is quick and free. So give that a try first. As far as laptop, im probably not the best person to ask, since Im in design/video editing and have aways required computers that are a bit on the outside of the norm. What is your budget? You really dont need to go high end just for 3D Printing.
@@3DPrintSOS thanks for the info, the reason i asked about laptops was because the first one i bought primarily for printing was a chromebook, wich wouldnt even support cura, or any slicing software for that matter, so then i got a off the wall brand wich wouldnt transfer certain types of media to memory stick or sd card, third laptop was a dell, wich probly would hav worked but was stolen out of my friends truck 4 days after i bought it, anyways you sounded like you know some of the things one would desire in the computer area of 3D printing, but no worries, think im goin to get a tuffbook by panasonic or another dell, thanks agin and wish the best of luck and health to you and your family
@@psycho6542 Ah. That’s right’s right the Chromebooks cant run slicers. There is a slicer that is browser-based, but I have no experience with it. Something like this would work great: amzn.to/41cNPTv Touch screen is nice as well as having enough power to do some 3D modeling if you want to get into it.
Great Video as usual! Very helpful. This new firmware WAY better than the stock system. You could always get some APC backup batteries to keep them running for a bit so you dont lose jobs mid print. They dont last long but could be enough to avoid issues for most quick power outages. For the start gcode do i paste over what is existing, or add it to what is existing?? If adding where do the lines fit in with whats there?
@@3DPrintSOS Okay so like this (below), or do i copy the entire thing under G28. Couldnt tell if I needed all of it or just M420 S1 since i have a non ABL system. G28 ;Home M420 S1 G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the platform down 15mm ;Prime the extruder G92 E0 G1 F200 E3 G92 E0
Once you've set your mesh... Is there a way to test each point to confirm your mesh points? Or do you have to simply reprogram your mesh? When I create a mesh, I'd rather test the mesh before a print to ensure nothing has moved... Without destructively removing the mesh and reseting it.
@@3DPrintSOS Yes. I get that I can see it. That doesn't tell me if the nozzle is still levelled (that the bed hasn't moved). What I want to do is verify that it is still good. That the platters haven't moved without reprogramming the whole thing. If I could just get the nozzle to move from point to point, I could just verify (with the piece of paper) that the nozzles haven't moved without deleting and re-leveling the whole thing.
Maybe there some something like that can be done via Marlin, but I definitely don’t know of it. Typically when the bed is out of level with a mesh, it’s just super simple to do another mesh.
Hi Fedor. Thanks for your great videos, they really help me a lot. I have just installed Alexs firmware, but now i am wondering about the motherboard fan. On the original Voxelab Aquila firmware the motherboard fan turns on and off automatically, but it seems like on Alexs firmware, You need to do it yourself. Is there a way, to get the machine to turn on the fan itself, or do You have to remember this everytime starting a print?
Hmm it should do it itself. I think it might be connected to the cooling fan. So at the second layer, the fan would turn on. I have Alex’s on several machines and I’ve never had it not turn on.
@@3DPrintSOS Thanks for Your reply. I recently installed the rgb Winsinn 24v fan on the Motherboard, and it works great with original firmware. With Alexs firmware i have now tried twice, that the fan didnt turn on itself during printing, it keeps saying “0” on the screen display, and then a overheating alarm starts. I could then just turn it on manually. I would prefer to use Alexs firmware because of all the extra features, and was just checking whether You knew anything about that issue. Greetings from Denmark.
Now I have tried a different version of the firmware, and it does the same. After starting a print, the bed and nozzle reach their preset temperatures, the print starts, the mobo fan remains on “0”, it does not turn on automatically and the heat alarm starts after a little while.
Thank you for your videos, you have helped me a lot since I'm very new to 3D printing! One problem I haven't been able to fix or come across a good way to fix, is that even after changing to this firmware my printer doesn't auto home correctly. It auto homes in the center of the top rather than the left. When I try to use the manual leveling feature on this software none of the commands take the extruder to the right place, the center is not in the middle, the top left is too far to the right, etc. So none of my prints print in the center of the bed and it causes issues when leveling. If you have any advice on how to fix this it would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
It sounds like the firmware you installed has the wrong dimensions. It sounds to be like it thinks you have a larger bed. You just need to reflash with the right one and you’ll be back in no time.
I love your Voxelab videos. I have an issue about updating Alex’s firmware. It won’t pass the mainboard firmware, it frozen and never shows green mark. I used N32.
Hmm. Things to check are if you properly formatted with the right bite size and if you got the right firmware. Make sure the bin is in a folder called “firmware”.
Awesome video as always. Possibility to go over the whole mesh stuff with an auto bed leveler? Looking to flash to this firmware from a different custom one
do you have any tips and tricks videos for installing a bl touch and using it with the aquila im having trouble mounting mine where its square with the build platform and it doesn't seem to be leveling correctly
I’ve only ever had it on my Aquila with Alex’s firmware and it was plug and play. I have a video on the Cr touch. Same thing really. I’ll be doing it again when I get this new board on the Ultimate Aquila build going.
I tried this again and the mesh leveling is literally different every print. Even after creating a new mesh, I go back to control and store settings. Even did the M420 S1 Gcode and did a level print and it showed level. Went to print 2mm square to double check and its not even close to level. So I go in and manually check the mesh and its different every time I've done it. I'll go to mesh value and its too high or too low. Not sure what the heck is going on with it but I've been fooling with this leveling now for 6+ hours and nothing I've done will keep the level. Even manually leveled the bed before creating the mesh and still doesn't work.
Oem firmware never had manual mesh and for 3rd party, it just has to be enabled in the source. Typically you can pick a .bin file with manual mesh already enabled.
Just installed the CR Touch and default voxlab BL touch firmware.... I went with that rather than jyersUI as I still wanted the landscape screen. Sadly the voxlab firmware really is nowhere near as good as jyersUI (which i use on my other printer).....so thinking of flashing jyers....just such a shame there's no landscape yet AFAIK...have checked back every few weeks to see if it has arrived yet. Might need to just do it.
I loaded this up, looked good until i homed the extruder. Instead of decending onto the bed, it raises a few millimeters. Any ideas why its doing this?
Thanks for all the videos you post! I am new to 3D printing. I just got an Aquila X2, N32. I wanted to install the firmware to take advantage of mesh leveling but I am not sure which one to use (3x3, 5x5 or 9x9) which one you recommend? Thanks in advance
Great video and always appreciate your knowledge and help! I do have a question on the N32 and G32 chip. On the front left I have no indications of H32, G32 or N32, just the serial number, model name and rated power. I did purchase this in June 2021 so it the first version of the Aquila. Would there be anywhere else I could check? I did look at the motherboard and it has no indication of H32, N32 or G32.
Ordered one off amazon just so I can check out this firmware. I need another printer and said yea lets try this one. Hope I don't get the H board but if I do ill use it anyways and hope new firmware comes out for it once voxel opens up the firmware to be modified.
Good video. I'm very interested in trying this firmware. 4 Questions come to mind: 1) Do we lose any functionality when switching from stock firmware? 2) Does the BL Touch work with this firmware? 3) Does Octoprint work with this firmware? 4) Does Octoprint work with the Mesh Leveling method you showed? Thanks for all your great work!
Great I can maybe try it If I can get my Aquila running again of course? Hey there 3DPrintSOS, Yep I am still trying to get this printer problem sorted. The Company has got me to test with a Multi-meter my boards thermistor & power ports for the Hot End and Bed. I just sent them the results they told me how to set the multi-meter to? Since I never even used a multi-meter before I had to have them tell me how? Daft yes indeed, But no everyone knows how to use everything unless they use it always. So have to wait for the next email reply and hope they sort out what to do? Sigh.... so much hassle. Any chance you could do a detailed step by step help video how to check the printer board and ports and connectors with a multi-meter. So us newbies can learn what is what to check the printer power and ports etc. Cheers.
Hmm. I did do a video on how to check your voltages for the steppers, but not much else to check. You can always check the plus and minus terminals on the psu to make sure they output 24v.
@@3DPrintSOS Just got the company email me a reply to my testing. They said to check the "Ω" with the red and black multi-meter probes, I asked them to explain what they mean? As there is that setting symbol on the meter dial not on the ports or pins of the board.
@@3DPrintSOS Hi there again. I have a Update for you! I just had the company email me and said at last that my main board seems to be faulty and they asked for my address to send me a New Main Board, at least they have seen I need one after all that back and forth. Now got wait who knows how long for the new board to e delivered to me in the UK.
Mesh leveling for me was just not working out for my prints. I would do a manual level followed up with a mesh level and my prints didn’t want to stay on the bed 😅 did just a manual level and so far my prints have been great.
@@3DPrintSOS yes sir hit the save after the mesh, when I would recheck the level with paper it would be very loose as if I didn’t just level it. I’ll try to troubleshoot it a bit more to see where I messed up at in a bit since I am now printing the vertical mount 😅
🤔 you could try to lower the nozzle a bit with z offset. See if it’s working. You also may have to add some gcode to the start gcode of your slicer for it to pull the mesh before the print.
@@3DPrintSOS ahhh I see where I messed up at lol it was the start of the gcode for the mesh like you mentioned in the video and here 😅 that and there was some filament hanging out while leveling. Thank you for the help and with these videos!
When trying to create a mesh nothing moves when I hit microstep up and down. It stays completely still. It does move to each point but that's it. Any ideas why?
I'm using this firmware from last 11 months and facing trouble with the resume print feature. Whenever there's a power outage it doesn't shows the resume print option instead it shows the home screen. Or can you please guide me on how to downgrade the printer firmware to the stock one?
You can use it on the v1 but the motherboard might be limited to what firmware you could use. You could always get a different drop in motherboard for a bit more though.
I have a Aquila X2 H32, will that firmware work on my X2? it worries me as all of the printers ive seen with custom firmware are the ones with a fliped voxelab logos and i have yet to see custom firmware on X2s
I’m so frustrated. Had some great prints, then went to relevel and set up my mesh to fine tune. Then in the middle of leveling the tip just was not moving so I backed out and tried again with a new mesh. Got it dialed in. Went to print my file and it was way too high. Checked my mesh and the first two points are at .20 way too high. And the rest are x’s. My prints aren’t touching the bed. Have the start Gcode in cura, I’m getting so frustrated. I have the h32 chip so I’m hoping the firmware isn’t glitching out on me.
Another Great Video. If you don't mind some constructive criticism, try to minimize your hand movements in your videos. You probably don't even realize you are doing it. It is especially noticable when only the printer and your hands are in the frame... :) By the way, this video had very little of it. But your other videos tend to have a lot
Thank you! I’m still very new to all of this so I appreciate the tips. I’m trying so hard not to say “um” every two seconds that sometimes I lose my train of thought. Lol with time.
@@3DPrintSOS Yea, tell me about it. I am constantly saying "so" and it drives my wife nuts! You are doing great. Soemthing to consider... Setup Tele-prompter SW. I did not realize it but Thomas Sanladerer seems to be using it for his videos. In his last upload, you can see it reflecting off the plastic of the Resin Printer!
I’ve totally thought it. The issue is it would take me longer to put videos together. I’d have to plan the whole dialog. At the moment I just kind of wing what what I’m saying, so I’m able to make these at a faster than pace. I know at some point slowing down and doing it “right” is probably going to happen. Maybe there is some in between for the time being.
Hey Fedor, great video. I have a question (unrelated) that I hope you might be able to answer. When I set my printer to preheat, it makes a weird whirring noise. Any ideas?
@@3DPrintSOS it's happened ever since I got the printer (about 2 months ago). It doesn't happen when I print normally though, only when I preheat. I tried replacing the fans with RBG ones like you did in one of your videos, but im scared of messing something up for one thing and also my shroud doesn't move away from thr printer all that much, not enough to get access to the fan
Watch my videos on replacing the loud fans and you should be ok with doing it. It’s easy once you get it going. As for the shroud not moving enough, you can undo the zip tie and pull back the cable loom and it will give you plenty of space to move the shroud out and around for a fan upgrade.
Just a quick question, when you have done your mesh and you save it, do you have to save it for each sd card you have, so every card you have, do you have to put that in and save settings, or does it save it on the printer itself?
@@3DPrintSOS brilliant, thank you. As a newbie it may seem like silly questions but if you don't know, you don't know. And there is very little about it anywhere online. Keep up the good work 👏👍🍺
Couple tips. Anyone upgrading to Alex's firmware should perform extruder step calibration. I recently purchased a Monoprice Joule (which is an Aquila clone with H32) and after upgrading to Alex's firmware I was under extruding. So the default 93 was bogus. I also had a thermal alarm in the middle of a print, after performing hot end PID everything was OK, so I think it is wise that everyone perform the the PID on the hot end as well.
Hey, just recently got a Monoprice Joule as well. Regarding the firmware, I'm assuming you picked v1.3.6 for H32 chips correct? Have you had any major issues since installing the firmware? Thanks!
@@dawnofdeath50 No problems. But you will have to update the display as well. I went with the 3x3 manual bed leveling bin file. You will also have to 3d print a vertical display mount. Good luck.
Great video, but my version 1.3.5 looks different on my Aquila X2. everything looks the same but instead of a leveling button next to the prepare button I have info. I cannot find mesh leveling anywhere in the different menus. I do have PID tuning and all the rest but no mesh. Is there a way to turn it on. I did the manual bed leveling as suggested.
I may be getting a CREALITY Ender 3, will it be possible to put the 3D Printer HD Display Screen Kits 24 Bits Mainboard for CREALITY Ender 3 V2 on the old CREALITY Ender 3?
Good question. I’m not sure of the exact item you’re referring to. Hard to tell just from that title but seems like it a screen and motherboard? If so, that could just be a drop in upgrade.
Hi Fedor, been using the mesh leveling for a while, but for some reason now, after a print I lose the mesh leveling settings and have to turn the x2 off and on for it to come back. Have you come across this before?
Hmm. There must be something in your end gcode that turns off the mesh. You can also add a start gcode to always pull up the mesh and then that should fix the issue. I don’t remember it off the top of my head but it’s very common. So a quick search should pull it right up.
@@3DPrintSOS I managed to sort the issue of the mesh level disappearing after each print. After reading some marlin gcodes, I came across RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28. I put the code in the end gcode in cura and after every print, my mesh level is back without me having to turn my printer off and on.
Is there an updated process for this for 2022? i just followed your steps and tried to install the firmware as the video shows but when i turned the screen back on it was just black and did not upload the new options, luckily i was able to reinstall the original firmware from the Voxelab website and the screen returned to how it was but i would very much like to figure out how to install the firmware to try the mesh leveling, can you assist? i have a Voxelab Aquila X2 the sticker on it shows H32
FYI your machine coordinates flash between zero and question mark when the steppers are disabled.. This firmware is excellent! Great video once again! Thanks Fedor!
Great video thanks. Confirmed I wanted to upgrade my Aquila firmware. One question, is there any visual indication that M420 S1 has activated the use of the mesh when printing (other than a better first layer)? My Z position still just shows 0.30, 0.50 etc when printing.
So I manually leveled the bed with the knobs. Started with the mesh bed leveling and it was preset to .20. I’m having to go to 0.00 and it’s still not as tight using the paper method. Do I turn the knobs or what do I adjust when this happens?
Will this firmware work for the Aquila v2? I've been afraid to install any firmware because it seems nothing works in the V2? But would like to for sure.
I just bought the Aquila X2 two weeks ago. I have the H32 chip. It seems to get a bad rap everywhere I look. Did I get an older printer? I would love to try this firmware. Thanks! (I realize this video was filmed in Aug.) Has anything changed?
The h32 is actually newer. It was a replacement for other machines because of the chip shortage. Unfortunately to get 3rd party firmware, you need a new motherboard. At the moment, there are no h32 compatible firmware that is out.
I've been watching your videos since i got the aquila.....your videos are extremely informative and has helped me with many issues i've ran into...so far. But....I've downloaded the manualmesh firmware and tried installing it....but after installing to my printer the screen just hangs with the checkmark and i can't do anything.....turn off my printer and just get a black screen on powerup...i've gone back to reinstalling the the aquila firmware and am able to print again.....my question is how can i get manualmesh installed on my printer? Do you have a walk thru for this particular issue?
Depends on what chip you have. There is a sticker on your machine that looks like a chip with either a H32 or N32 on it. If its an N32 you can. If its an H32 you have to be patient as its not ready for release yet.
For other total newbs like me, the M420 S1 is inserted after the G28 line in the start code. If you are using Cura, select your printer from the drop down on the right, click "manage printers", highlight the printer you want, click "machine settings" and the start g-code will be in the lower left corner. Insert a line after the G28 and paste the M420 S1 there.
Pinned. ;)
thx mate
@@3DPrintSOS i did exactly this and mine still doesnt seem to be pulling up the mesh bed level.
This may be a dumb quesion the M420 S1 is inserted after the G28 line in the start code am i inserting?
M420 S1
G29 A ; Activate the UBL System.
G29 L0 ; Load UBL slot 0
G29 J ; 3-point level
G29 F10.0 ; Fade to 10mm
or just
M420 S1
sorry I am learning
You need just the m420 s1. You put the code into what you have in the start gcode now. You I’ll see a g28 code, just put this after it.
This is really useful thank you. After watching dozens of TH-cam videos, l have found yours to be the most informative and I will definitely be getting an Aquila printer
When you do get it. If you see that is has a H32 chipset. Send it back because you won't be able to use any community firmware or any hardware upgrades until voxelab official releases the firmware to support said upgrade
@@ergunjonuz2726 thanks for the info
That’s true. Just depends what you want out of your printer. It’s still great with the stock firmware. But it’s true, the h32 isn’t compatible with aftermarket firmware
Fedor is the best!!!
I've just installed this firmware and followed your video on levelling. Have to say that I'm very impressed with the extra features on this firmware. Next thing is to install the 3DTouch when it arrives then follow your CRTouch video. Your tutorials are very much appreciated.
You now have full control which is nice
on my Tevo Tarantula Pro I have an 8 bit board with silent steppers and I added Manual Mesh Bed Leveling. I have a BLTouch but haven't installed it yet.
Manual mesh leveling for me by for years. I can see why you’re delaying. Haha once you get it setup, you should be good for a while.
Bro, you deserve more subs and views. Thanks for all your videos!! They help a lot
Appreciate that. Glad I could help
holy crap dude your video has helped me so much with understanding all the settings, thank you!
Glad to hear it.
This may also solve a problem I have not seen addressed anywhere. The added weight of a direct-drive extruder can make the z-axis drift downward as soon as the steppers are disabled for leveling. If the machine keeps the motors "locked" during setup, gravity is one variable not to worry about. I should have done this upgrade over the weekend!
Bed screw adjustment is the coordinates to place the hotend centred directly over the adjustment wheel, bottom left
Ohhhhh. Well ok then. That makes sense. Thank you!
I always enjoy your videos they are very helpful! Because of your videos I purchased my Voxelab Aquila 3D Printer I only own one of the Voxelab Aquila 3D Printers And after finding out with the new H32 chips that you will no longer be able to make software updates without having to pay for them I feel I will not buy another one But your videos will help on the Enders
Thanks for the videos!
Yes the h32 is a bit of a bummer. However, it’s still an amazing printer even with the stock firmware. But yes to all the things.
first class information about the Jyers firmware.
Glad I could help!
Hey, thanks so much for making this video!
Excellent, thanks for the information as always
Thank you! I was watching a vid about bad firmware etc. I cant wait to get mine and put it together now..
Honestly it’s great on either firmware, you just get more control if you’re into that kind of thing.
Thanks. Can you show how to upgrade the G code in Cura slicer.
You can copy the gcode from the description but you just add it before g28
I have used this for 2 years, I love it. Been hoping for an update.
There is another firmware in town. if you search Aquila Pro Firmware, that is the current champ. even has input shaper and pressure advance.
@3DPrintSOS yay, but I'm using the ender3v2. Guess I didn't state that. Probably not useful for me. It's great firmware. The mesh is a great tool.
Love that intro! Looked so good.
Thank you! I worked hard on it. Although it doesn’t seem like much to most. 😂
love what youre doing with the aquila dude i just got a microswiss direct drive mod and i am so stoked to start printing some helmets. ive been looking at alex's software im glad you did a video on it. youre doing great work here!
Awesome, that’s a great mod! Thank you, glad you’re finding it useful.
Thank you so much for this video! It was really helpful
Now this is a Tut. Exellent. (I knew youd only get better. (and this vid was almost a yr old)
this is super amazing thank you
Levelling active, I believe, is what you click to utilize the mesh created by your BL Touch/Auto Level process. If you uncheck it, it seems to ignore the mesh created by the BL. I think it just restores or "turns on" the mesh you created and saved. I kept running into issues because this setting needs to be toggled on each time the printer is turned back on.
Good to know. Mine seems to print great either way. Lol.
@@3DPrintSOS On that note, even when your click to store the settings, that's one option it seems to ignore. You have to turn it on every time. I suspect that the reason you haven't noticed a difference is because you have a great set up, and your bed is perfectly level anyway. If I forget to turn it on, I get weird stuff happening at the centre of the bed, as I have an imperfection there. I can confirm this because when I do the manual level, the centre point is always out. If I adjust to make it correct, the head is too close at the corners. Therefore, the mesh solves that issue, but I have to remember to turn it on! Edit: Just got to the end of the video, and realised that you mentioned about altering the start GCode. If you do that, then you will never need to turn it on at the printer level. Makes perfect sense, and thank you for mentioning that! Something I never thought of, but going to do that right now!
Hope it’s worked. Also as a side note I’m not sure why I can’t see your previous comments. I see notifications for them but when I click into them, they aren’t there. :/
@@3DPrintSOS Seems to work ok. Got a lovely print thanks to you! Thanks for the gcode tip! I think I had notifications for all your responses, so not quite sure what happened there!
Thank you so much for your vids!
I would recommend adding to the title of this one. I almost didn’t watch it because I use a bl touch and thought this was only going to be about manual leveling.
Lots of great info on all these settings after updating. Really appreciate it. Your videos are awesome.
Thank you!
Once again another great video no1 guy to always go to for help
Great video, thanks!
I installed this firmware, I chose the 4x4, I have always had a bit of trouble getting this printer to start printing, but could usually manage to get it going and end with "decent" quality. After installing and going through the process for a mesh, I can now "see" why. I'm not entirely sure how a piece of glass could be this far warped, but it is. Left to right the bed is half a mm out, doesn't seem like much, but the middle is domed, now I can see why I always had issues. I just printed a calibration cube and it is just about perfect, the first layer is as perfect as I have ever seen and the rest of the cube looks awesome.
Excellent video, Cheers
I have watched many of your videos mainly about Voxelab Aquila which have been extremely helpful, I think I would have probably not proceeded very far without your guide. I will soon have had my machine for a year, I have had many successful prints but I do not print all the time. I bought my Aquila through an online auction site that sells excess stock , returns etc. of all sorts from electrical items to furniture and cars and the Aquila was described incorrectly as the X2 which would have had a Filament runout sensor but as it was the earlier model this was not included. The board has a socket labelled as Filament sensor and I would like to add this facility to the machine. The Voxelab sensor to purchase here in the UK is expensive and I would like to know if it is possible to use an alternative without too much difficulty, I intend to update the firmware Alex's as per your video soon I have been waiting for the shorter days. It will be my 80th birthday in December and I will treat myself to a filament sensor. You do not seem to mention filament sensors is there a reason or do you not use one. Keep up the videos there must me more new users that will find them essential. Ray
any chance we could get a video on how to install it?
th-cam.com/video/sQFsnIyJ5BM/w-d-xo.html
@@3DPrintSOS legend
Is there a PDF guide or a manual for the alex firmware. Great videos by the way very helpful.
Outside of the documentation on JuersUI and Alex’s fork itself, no. But there are tons of videos out there.
Can you explain how to update the gcode? What is abl etc?
You have to put the M420 S1 gcode right after the G28 home code. That should do it.
Mine doesn't have the level can you please do a video how to get it or explain how to get it I would appreciate it if you can't I love your videos
Would love to do this soon on my X2 but it's the H32
Ah. Hopefully soon we will have something as an option. For now, just keep trying to hone in the machine on the stock firmware.
@@3DPrintSOS That's what I'm doing. I'm only 3 days into my first printer. Only thing I've done so far is double check my e-steps. I got that correct. Printed out some typical extruder knobs and tool boxes. Running some battery mounts for my garage now. Next I'm going to design a simple mount for my roku remote for the garage. My first time designing something in software. Usually in the garage I just start cutting metal. I really appreciate your Aquila videos man. Helps us newbs out a lot
The beauty of 3dprinting. Half my house has 3DPrinted things in it. Lol
Grate tutorial. Thank you ❤️
I could use help. When I bottom left home it’ll be in the middle on the bottom center me on the right side in the middle but it does know where right bottom is and top left and right or all fine
Another great video on the “Voxel-Lab A-kwil-la”. Thank you. ;)
Haha one of these days, I will get this right. 😂 breaks my brain for some reason.
can you use it on Voxelab Aquila??
Yessir
i have a question is there another better firmware todate
yes. if you search for “Aquila professional firmware” you will find a GitHub link to it. it’s great. maybe even the best.
Very good video !
Do you recommend it for Aquila X2 ?
Thank you !
Yea for sure. More control is always better. :)
@@3DPrintSOS Yeah... for sure. but Alex not have firmware for X2 H32 chip ... :(
Nope, not yet.
Is there a simple reset or a back to default settings, printer keeps freezing at random
The easiest way is to just re-install the stock firmware from the voxelab site. However, that might not be the issue. Just it just freeze or do you get an error? Could be a loose connection or failure in the motherboard.
@@3DPrintSOS wow, you really are a stand up guy, thanks for the swift reply, so im using a first gen aqilla, and it just freezes, whatever screen ur on or in the middle of making adjustments it just poops out, and super random too, i almost finished a full print b4 it froze, and 2day i couldnt even get more then a few layers, what type of laptop would you recomend for doin this kinda work, 3D printing, slicing, data transfer software, ect, and again your super cool to give your time like this and help people, thank you a bunch
@@psycho6542 Hmm. Yeah I think cutting out might be hardware related. But trying to reload firmware is quick and free. So give that a try first. As far as laptop, im probably not the best person to ask, since Im in design/video editing and have aways required computers that are a bit on the outside of the norm. What is your budget? You really dont need to go high end just for 3D Printing.
@@3DPrintSOS thanks for the info, the reason i asked about laptops was because the first one i bought primarily for printing was a chromebook, wich wouldnt even support cura, or any slicing software for that matter, so then i got a off the wall brand wich wouldnt transfer certain types of media to memory stick or sd card, third laptop was a dell, wich probly would hav worked but was stolen out of my friends truck 4 days after i bought it, anyways you sounded like you know some of the things one would desire in the computer area of 3D printing, but no worries, think im goin to get a tuffbook by panasonic or another dell, thanks agin and wish the best of luck and health to you and your family
@@psycho6542 Ah. That’s right’s right the Chromebooks cant run slicers. There is a slicer that is browser-based, but I have no experience with it. Something like this would work great: amzn.to/41cNPTv Touch screen is nice as well as having enough power to do some 3D modeling if you want to get into it.
Great Video as usual! Very helpful. This new firmware WAY better than the stock system. You could always get some APC backup batteries to keep them running for a bit so you dont lose jobs mid print. They dont last long but could be enough to avoid issues for most quick power outages. For the start gcode do i paste over what is existing, or add it to what is existing?? If adding where do the lines fit in with whats there?
You can add it in after G28
@@3DPrintSOS Okay so like this (below), or do i copy the entire thing under G28. Couldnt tell if I needed all of it or just M420 S1 since i have a non ABL system.
G28 ;Home
M420 S1
G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the platform down 15mm
;Prime the extruder
G92 E0
G1 F200 E3
G92 E0
Just like you have it below
Can you edit the gcode in voxelmaker? I can't find where to do so
Never tried to be honest. I only use it for the Aries and I haven’t touched any settings.
Hi I’m having problems with z axis not working properly. It goes up but not down . Put a new one on still the same . Can you help please
Does it do this when trying to print, or moving the axis manually? both?
@@3DPrintSOS with both
Once you've set your mesh... Is there a way to test each point to confirm your mesh points? Or do you have to simply reprogram your mesh?
When I create a mesh, I'd rather test the mesh before a print to ensure nothing has moved... Without destructively removing the mesh and reseting it.
You can view the mesh figured in that graph. They visually show you how far off it is and where
@@3DPrintSOS Yes. I get that I can see it. That doesn't tell me if the nozzle is still levelled (that the bed hasn't moved). What I want to do is verify that it is still good. That the platters haven't moved without reprogramming the whole thing. If I could just get the nozzle to move from point to point, I could just verify (with the piece of paper) that the nozzles haven't moved without deleting and re-leveling the whole thing.
Maybe there some something like that can be done via Marlin, but I definitely don’t know of it. Typically when the bed is out of level with a mesh, it’s just super simple to do another mesh.
Hi Fedor. Thanks for your great videos, they really help me a lot. I have just installed Alexs firmware, but now i am wondering about the motherboard fan. On the original Voxelab Aquila firmware the motherboard fan turns on and off automatically, but it seems like on Alexs firmware, You need to do it yourself. Is there a way, to get the machine to turn on the fan itself, or do You have to remember this everytime starting a print?
Hmm it should do it itself. I think it might be connected to the cooling fan. So at the second layer, the fan would turn on. I have Alex’s on several machines and I’ve never had it not turn on.
@@3DPrintSOS Thanks for Your reply. I recently installed the rgb Winsinn 24v fan on the Motherboard, and it works great with original firmware. With Alexs firmware i have now tried twice, that the fan didnt turn on itself during printing, it keeps saying “0” on the screen display, and then a overheating alarm starts. I could then just turn it on manually. I would prefer to use Alexs firmware because of all the extra features, and was just checking whether You knew anything about that issue. Greetings from Denmark.
That’s strange that The fan would be off in firmware. Have you tried to upload a different version of the firmware?
Now I have tried a different version of the firmware, and it does the same. After starting a print, the bed and nozzle reach their preset temperatures, the print starts, the mobo fan remains on “0”, it does not turn on automatically and the heat alarm starts after a little while.
Have you replaced that fan?
Would be great to see a video from you on BLTouch or 3DTouch fitted to an Aquila.
I just did one. :) CR touch, but essentially the same thing.
@@3DPrintSOS I will give it a watch later. Thanks :)
Thank you for your videos, you have helped me a lot since I'm very new to 3D printing! One problem I haven't been able to fix or come across a good way to fix, is that even after changing to this firmware my printer doesn't auto home correctly. It auto homes in the center of the top rather than the left. When I try to use the manual leveling feature on this software none of the commands take the extruder to the right place, the center is not in the middle, the top left is too far to the right, etc. So none of my prints print in the center of the bed and it causes issues when leveling. If you have any advice on how to fix this it would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
It sounds like the firmware you installed has the wrong dimensions. It sounds to be like it thinks you have a larger bed. You just need to reflash with the right one and you’ll be back in no time.
I love your Voxelab videos. I have an issue about updating Alex’s firmware. It won’t pass the mainboard firmware, it frozen and never shows green mark. I used N32.
Hmm. Things to check are if you properly formatted with the right bite size and if you got the right firmware. Make sure the bin is in a folder called “firmware”.
@@3DPrintSOS yeah when I used Voxelab firmware. It went though no problem, but I will re format again. Thank you
Let me know how it goes
Hi mate, how and where do we put the G Code command ?
gracias a tu video pude cargar un firmware de esa impresora, ahora funciona te lo agradezco
hello , please tell me what is the maximum temperature of the nozzle , on this proshtvke
260 is Max. You can always recompile the firmware yourself and modify that number though.
Awesome video as always. Possibility to go over the whole mesh stuff with an auto bed leveler? Looking to flash to this firmware from a different custom one
Yep, I'll be installing a CR Touch on this and doing a video on it soon.
downloaded alex's firmware but the screens buggy and it doesnt come with a dwin folder
If you go Alex’s, you have to get the DWIN folder from the source code and rename it. It’s in the instructions. You’re close though.
@@3DPrintSOS i figured out the regular up date, im going to try alex's again next lol.
do you have any tips and tricks videos for installing a bl touch and using it with the aquila im having trouble mounting mine where its square with the build platform and it doesn't seem to be leveling correctly
I’ve only ever had it on my Aquila with Alex’s firmware and it was plug and play. I have a video on the Cr touch. Same thing really.
I’ll be doing it again when I get this new board on the Ultimate Aquila build going.
I tried this again and the mesh leveling is literally different every print. Even after creating a new mesh, I go back to control and store settings. Even did the M420 S1 Gcode and did a level print and it showed level. Went to print 2mm square to double check and its not even close to level. So I go in and manually check the mesh and its different every time I've done it. I'll go to mesh value and its too high or too low. Not sure what the heck is going on with it but I've been fooling with this leveling now for 6+ hours and nothing I've done will keep the level. Even manually leveled the bed before creating the mesh and still doesn't work.
Storing new 'Min Extrusion Temp' Doesn't appear to work for me. Machine returns to default (180) when I power cycle.
Could be a default in the firmware. If you a higher number does it stay?
which vertical mount did you use?
It’s linked in the description :)
@@3DPrintSOS oh, oops.. =)
Happens to the best of us. No worries. :)
Is Manual Mesh gone in v1.3.5? Only see a Manual Leveling option and no Level menu option.
Oem firmware never had manual mesh and for 3rd party, it just has to be enabled in the source. Typically you can pick a .bin file with manual mesh already enabled.
Just installed the CR Touch and default voxlab BL touch firmware....
I went with that rather than jyersUI as I still wanted the landscape screen. Sadly the voxlab firmware really is nowhere near as good as jyersUI (which i use on my other printer).....so thinking of flashing jyers....just such a shame there's no landscape yet AFAIK...have checked back every few weeks to see if it has arrived yet.
Might need to just do it.
It’s worth it. I loved the horizontal screen too, but jyers is just too good. ;)
Did you learn what the (Leveling Active) is ?
Yep, it literally enables the mesh. It’s quite a literal setting turns out. Haha
@@3DPrintSOS Thank you .
Curious do i add the G code you provided too what is already in cura or erase it and then add the new g code
I would add it after the home code g28
@@3DPrintSOS Thank you, love your channel. You have been a big help.
I loaded this up, looked good until i homed the extruder. Instead of decending onto the bed, it raises a few millimeters. Any ideas why its doing this?
Out of curiosity is that start gcode universal?
What do you mean by that?
@@3DPrintSOS like is it only for the Aquila? Or does it work on any machine running marlin?
Ah. Sorry. Any machine with Marlin. ;)
@@3DPrintSOS ok awesome thanks 👍
Will this 3rd party firmware also work on the Voxelab Aquila x2
Yep. It’ll work perfectly as long as you use the right one for your chip.
Awesome Fedor Thanks for this. For both the guided tour and the mesh lesson. I never thought it was that easy.
Glad you found it useful. It’s great. Especially on large print beds. I just go solid on the mounts and use a thorough bed mesh. :)
Thanks for all the videos you post! I am new to 3D printing. I just got an Aquila X2, N32. I wanted to install the firmware to take advantage of mesh leveling but I am not sure which one to use (3x3, 5x5 or 9x9) which one you recommend? Thanks in advance
The 5x5 is more than enough points for leveling for such a small bed. It’ll just take too long with any more. ;)
Thanks so much! I appreciate your insight!
Hope it helps. :)
Great video and always appreciate your knowledge and help! I do have a question on the N32 and G32 chip. On the front left I have no indications of H32, G32 or N32, just the serial number, model name and rated power. I did purchase this in June 2021 so it the first version of the Aquila. Would there be anywhere else I could check? I did look at the motherboard and it has no indication of H32, N32 or G32.
If there is no sticker, you have a G32 machine. :)
@@3DPrintSOS Thank you so much!
Ordered one off amazon just so I can check out this firmware. I need another printer and said yea lets try this one. Hope I don't get the H board but if I do ill use it anyways and hope new firmware comes out for it once voxel opens up the firmware to be modified.
You’ll like it
Good video. I'm very interested in trying this firmware.
4 Questions come to mind:
1) Do we lose any functionality when switching from stock firmware?
2) Does the BL Touch work with this firmware?
3) Does Octoprint work with this firmware?
4) Does Octoprint work with the Mesh Leveling method you showed?
Thanks for all your great work!
1. Nope. Only gain a ton.
2. Yep, you just have to install the BLTouch version
3. Yep
4. Yep
:)
How do you change the bed size?
You’d have to change it in the firmware and compile it to your desired settings.
Great I can maybe try it If I can get my Aquila running again of course?
Hey there 3DPrintSOS,
Yep I am still trying to get this printer problem sorted.
The Company has got me to test with a Multi-meter my boards thermistor & power ports for the Hot End and Bed.
I just sent them the results they told me how to set the multi-meter to?
Since I never even used a multi-meter before I had to have them tell me how?
Daft yes indeed, But no everyone knows how to use everything unless they use it always.
So have to wait for the next email reply and hope they sort out what to do?
Sigh.... so much hassle.
Any chance you could do a detailed step by step help video how to check the printer board and ports and connectors with a multi-meter.
So us newbies can learn what is what to check the printer power and ports etc.
Cheers.
Hmm. I did do a video on how to check your voltages for the steppers, but not much else to check. You can always check the plus and minus terminals on the psu to make sure they output 24v.
@@3DPrintSOS Just got the company email me a reply to my testing. They said to check the "Ω" with the red and black multi-meter probes, I asked them to explain what they mean? As there is that setting symbol on the meter dial not on the ports or pins of the board.
@@3DPrintSOS Hi there again.
I have a Update for you! I just had the company email me and said at last that my main board seems to be faulty and they asked for my address to send me a New Main Board, at least they have seen I need one after all that back and forth. Now got wait who knows how long for the new board to e delivered to me in the UK.
That’s great service right there.
Thanx!
Where can I buy the 3dmax filament?
I believe the site is IIIdmax.com I think I added a link in the description.
Hi there … thanks for the video but if you have a CR touch install will the firmware works with it?
Yep. The Cr touch is just a dressed up BLTouch. ;)
@@3DPrintSOS ahh ic… thank you so much for the information…🙏
No problem.
Mesh leveling for me was just not working out for my prints. I would do a manual level followed up with a mesh level and my prints didn’t want to stay on the bed 😅 did just a manual level and so far my prints have been great.
Hmm. Right after making the mesh, are going to the settings and hitting “save”? If you have a sensor, don’t forget to adjust z offset as well
@@3DPrintSOS yes sir hit the save after the mesh, when I would recheck the level with paper it would be very loose as if I didn’t just level it. I’ll try to troubleshoot it a bit more to see where I messed up at in a bit since I am now printing the vertical mount 😅
🤔 you could try to lower the nozzle a bit with z offset. See if it’s working. You also may have to add some gcode to the start gcode of your slicer for it to pull the mesh before the print.
@@3DPrintSOS ahhh I see where I messed up at lol it was the start of the gcode for the mesh like you mentioned in the video and here 😅 that and there was some filament hanging out while leveling. Thank you for the help and with these videos!
I’m glad you got it going. :) time for some prints. :)
When trying to create a mesh nothing moves when I hit microstep up and down. It stays completely still. It does move to each point but that's it. Any ideas why?
I love this.
I'm using this firmware from last 11 months and facing trouble with the resume print feature. Whenever there's a power outage it doesn't shows the resume print option instead it shows the home screen. Or can you please guide me on how to downgrade the printer firmware to the stock one?
Is this own good to use on the v2 can I use it on the v1
You can use it on the v1 but the motherboard might be limited to what firmware you could use. You could always get a different drop in motherboard for a bit more though.
Do you not change your 0.5 z offset after doing a manual mesh?
I have a Aquila X2 H32, will that firmware work on my X2? it worries me as all of the printers ive seen with custom firmware are the ones with a fliped voxelab logos and i have yet to see custom firmware on X2s
Yep, there is a version for the h32
I’m so frustrated. Had some great prints, then went to relevel and set up my mesh to fine tune. Then in the middle of leveling the tip just was not moving so I backed out and tried again with a new mesh. Got it dialed in. Went to print my file and it was way too high. Checked my mesh and the first two points are at .20 way too high. And the rest are x’s. My prints aren’t touching the bed. Have the start Gcode in cura, I’m getting so frustrated. I have the h32 chip so I’m hoping the firmware isn’t glitching out on me.
Another Great Video. If you don't mind some constructive criticism, try to minimize your hand movements in your videos. You probably don't even realize you are doing it. It is especially noticable when only the printer and your hands are in the frame... :) By the way, this video had very little of it. But your other videos tend to have a lot
Thank you! I’m still very new to all of this so I appreciate the tips. I’m trying so hard not to say “um” every two seconds that sometimes I lose my train of thought. Lol with time.
@@3DPrintSOS Yea, tell me about it. I am constantly saying "so" and it drives my wife nuts! You are doing great. Soemthing to consider... Setup Tele-prompter SW. I did not realize it but Thomas Sanladerer seems to be using it for his videos. In his last upload, you can see it reflecting off the plastic of the Resin Printer!
I’ve totally thought it. The issue is it would take me longer to put videos together. I’d have to plan the whole dialog. At the moment I just kind of wing what what I’m saying, so I’m able to make these at a faster than pace. I know at some point slowing down and doing it “right” is probably going to happen. Maybe there is some in between for the time being.
Now that Alex is no longer working on this, what do you recommend for G32 without ABL?
Hey Fedor, great video. I have a question (unrelated) that I hope you might be able to answer. When I set my printer to preheat, it makes a weird whirring noise. Any ideas?
Sound like your board fan is going. :/ it goes away after a few seconds?
@@3DPrintSOS yeah, it did go away after a few seconds when I tried it today, what exactly is going on?
When the fans go bad. The bearing vibrates until it heats up. Very common on this machine. You need to replace it with another 20mm 24v fan.
@@3DPrintSOS it's happened ever since I got the printer (about 2 months ago). It doesn't happen when I print normally though, only when I preheat. I tried replacing the fans with RBG ones like you did in one of your videos, but im scared of messing something up for one thing and also my shroud doesn't move away from thr printer all that much, not enough to get access to the fan
Watch my videos on replacing the loud fans and you should be ok with doing it. It’s easy once you get it going. As for the shroud not moving enough, you can undo the zip tie and pull back the cable loom and it will give you plenty of space to move the shroud out and around for a fan upgrade.
Just a quick question, when you have done your mesh and you save it, do you have to save it for each sd card you have, so every card you have, do you have to put that in and save settings, or does it save it on the printer itself?
It saves it to the eprom on the printer. So you’re good. :)
@@3DPrintSOS brilliant, thank you. As a newbie it may seem like silly questions but if you don't know, you don't know. And there is very little about it anywhere online. Keep up the good work 👏👍🍺
True. Only way to find out is ask. So no worries.
Couple tips. Anyone upgrading to Alex's firmware should perform extruder step calibration. I recently purchased a Monoprice Joule (which is an Aquila clone with H32) and after upgrading to Alex's firmware I was under extruding. So the default 93 was bogus. I also had a thermal alarm in the middle of a print, after performing hot end PID everything was OK, so I think it is wise that everyone perform the the PID on the hot end as well.
Hey, just recently got a Monoprice Joule as well. Regarding the firmware, I'm assuming you picked v1.3.6 for H32 chips correct? Have you had any major issues since installing the firmware? Thanks!
@@dawnofdeath50 No problems. But you will have to update the display as well. I went with the 3x3 manual bed leveling bin file. You will also have to 3d print a vertical display mount. Good luck.
@@dawnofdeath50 This is what I installed, also get the proper display update.
I love the green screen
Haha. Me too! Hopefully I can make higher quality stuff with this.
Yeah good job it actually looks really good.
Great video, but my version 1.3.5 looks different on my Aquila X2. everything looks the same but instead of a leveling button next to the prepare button I have info. I cannot find mesh leveling anywhere in the different menus. I do have PID tuning and all the rest but no mesh. Is there a way to turn it on. I did the manual bed leveling as suggested.
I think you must have grabbed the non mesh bed leveling version. There is a “default style” version available.
@@3DPrintSOS ok didnt realize there was a different version. I got that version before this video came out. Thanks Ill update it.
🐐
sos help me my printer does go banging here it goes to spot it doesnt need to go its spot goes breaking my motors in this menu helpp
this menu: 5:17
I may be getting a CREALITY Ender 3, will it be possible to put the 3D Printer HD Display Screen Kits 24 Bits Mainboard for CREALITY Ender 3 V2 on the old CREALITY Ender 3?
Good question. I’m not sure of the exact item you’re referring to. Hard to tell just from that title but seems like it a screen and motherboard? If so, that could just be a drop in upgrade.
Hi Fedor, been using the mesh leveling for a while, but for some reason now, after a print I lose the mesh leveling settings and have to turn the x2 off and on for it to come back. Have you come across this before?
Hmm. There must be something in your end gcode that turns off the mesh. You can also add a start gcode to always pull up the mesh and then that should fix the issue. I don’t remember it off the top of my head but it’s very common. So a quick search should pull it right up.
@@3DPrintSOS I managed to sort the issue of the mesh level disappearing after each print. After reading some marlin gcodes, I came across RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28. I put the code in the end gcode in cura and after every print, my mesh level is back without me having to turn my printer off and on.
So if it doesn’t have a sticker, that means it’s a G-32? I don’t know which version my Aquila is or how to identify it.
Yep. If there is no sticker, you’re lookin at a G32
Is there an updated process for this for 2022? i just followed your steps and tried to install the firmware as the video shows but when i turned the screen back on it was just black and did not upload the new options, luckily i was able to reinstall the original firmware from the Voxelab website and the screen returned to how it was but i would very much like to figure out how to install the firmware to try the mesh leveling, can you assist? i have a Voxelab Aquila X2 the sticker on it shows H32
FYI your machine coordinates flash between zero and question mark when the steppers are disabled.. This firmware is excellent! Great video once again! Thanks Fedor!
Right. Cause at that point the printer doesn’t really know where the hotend is. Until it’s homed. :)
Great video thanks. Confirmed I wanted to upgrade my Aquila firmware. One question, is there any visual indication that M420 S1 has activated the use of the mesh when printing (other than a better first layer)? My Z position still just shows 0.30, 0.50 etc when printing.
That’s a great question. To be honest, I’m not sure if there’s a visual indication.
So I manually leveled the bed with the knobs. Started with the mesh bed leveling and it was preset to .20. I’m having to go to 0.00 and it’s still not as tight using the paper method. Do I turn the knobs or what do I adjust when this happens?
That means your z switch is a bit too high. I would lower it a bit and do another manual leveling again.
Will this firmware work for the Aquila v2? I've been afraid to install any firmware because it seems nothing works in the V2? But would like to for sure.
Sure. As long as it doesn’t have a “H32” on the front left. :)
@@3DPrintSOS If you say its ok I'll go for it. Mine is a N32. Thanks a lot!
Ah yeah, N32 is good to go. ;)
Thanks a lot! It worked! You do a great service to 3D printer noobs!
I just bought the Aquila X2 two weeks ago. I have the H32 chip. It seems to get a bad rap everywhere I look. Did I get an older printer? I would love to try this firmware. Thanks! (I realize this video was filmed in Aug.) Has anything changed?
The h32 is actually newer. It was a replacement for other machines because of the chip shortage. Unfortunately to get 3rd party firmware, you need a new motherboard. At the moment, there are no h32 compatible firmware that is out.
@@3DPrintSOS Thanks for coming back and answering my question!
Absolutely;)
@@Jetmo the H32 firmware is out now!
@@urgamecshk Thank you! I will get to it soon. Thanks a lot !!!
I've been watching your videos since i got the aquila.....your videos are extremely informative and has helped me with many issues i've ran into...so far. But....I've downloaded the manualmesh firmware and tried installing it....but after installing to my printer the screen just hangs with the checkmark and i can't do anything.....turn off my printer and just get a black screen on powerup...i've gone back to reinstalling the the aquila firmware and am able to print again.....my question is how can i get manualmesh installed on my printer? Do you have a walk thru for this particular issue?
Hmm sounds like you may have either the wrong firmware or the card isn’t properly formatted. Make sure you also install the DWIN_SET
I just got a voxelab Aquila x2 can this firmware be loaded in it or not?
Depends on what chip you have. There is a sticker on your machine that looks like a chip with either a H32 or N32 on it. If its an N32 you can. If its an H32 you have to be patient as its not ready for release yet.