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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 มิ.ย. 2020
- #Sponsored How to upgrade your 3D Printer heated bed to a high performance, super flat bed with a removable print surface. If you have problems with bed adhesion, even heating, bed flatness, warping, or other issues due to poor quality bed, this could be a great upgrade path.
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Thanks to:
Wham Bam Systems: whambamsystems.com/
Keenovo: keenovo.store/
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Website: vector3d.co.uk/ - บันเทิง
these cuts fit so amazingly well to the music... great job!
Great video, very professional without being dry. Brilliant info! I particularly appreciated the meticulous way you approach the self adhesive materials. Much higher stakes than a tpu screen protector!
Good advice Adam. That's pretty much how I did the #Borg. Same size bed, 240v 1Kw Keenovo heater and WhamBam FBS. I also added cork sheet under the heater and a thinner aluminium sheet under that to support the weight of the heater. Also, since I have a BL Touch, I mounted the bed on solid supports.
Woo! I ordered a batch of aluminum sheets and spring steel beds, going to do something very similar to this, I went with dual powder coated and smooth, I see you just went with smooth
I like your content, thank you for doing what you do!
yea I just built a aluminum 1100mm X 1500mm heated bed. I just did 20 300mmx300mm PI sheets right to the aluminum bed to keep costs down. On heating it really warped up about 10mm in the center so I had to reinforce the bed with aluminum angle. Now its fairly flat and usable with a bed level probe. Thanks for sharing awesome vid man
Great video planning to make mine.
Most bed temp limits are from adhesives or magnets, the e3d high temp bed is able to go up to 250C at it's peak temp because the aluminum and heating pad are fused together without glue. At higher temps on larger beds you want the standoffs to allow the bed to be able to move horizontally to prevent the bed from warping due to thermal expansion.
I made my bed similar but smaller scale (220x220). Two thing a did different was I got a keenovo heater without a thermistor, but with a hole in the middle. I then drilled and tapped a hole to allow me to use a screw in thermistor. I also added a reset-able surface mount thermal cutout switch using silicone to the back of the keenovo.
Great vid there's not many guides out there for this kind of upgrade. I have a bed like this on a BLV MGN Cube. Keenovo pads are excellent and have a good reputation and they can produce custom sizes. A slightly cleaner way to do the mounting bolts is to tap the holes and use threaded rod. That way you secure the back side with a nut+washer and not have to worry about protruding bolt heads or having to countersink the tops. I have a glass top with PrintBite over the top of the mounting holes.
Did you tap blind holes? Or drill all the way thru, then thread bolt until flush?
very informative video. thanks.
Your comment about subscribers made me subscribe...😅... Thanks for posting.
Hi Adam, thanks for the great video. I am about to build such a bed for a custom printer myself and am wondering about how strong the magnets are on these kind of flexbed systems. I have had cases where my flexbed has bend upwards on the corners on my Prusa MK3 when printing large PETG parts. Do you happen to have used different flex bed systems and can you compare the strength of the magnets?
Hi Adam, thank you for this video. Where did you buy this bed in the UK? I was looking around and I found a lot of different names of products like mill finished, grade 1050 or Precision Aluminum Cut Plates A5052P. All of them are confusing. A lot of sellers (companies not eBay) state that the plates are super flat but in the specs, I can see tolerances of +/- 0.3 mm or more that don't sound very flat to me(if I understood correctly).
Thank you
I have a couple 3d printers I'd like to try this on. A createbot mini and a TEVO Tarantula Pro.
Nice work!! I'm trying to build one with 310mm x 310mm bed, but I'm not sure which allow to use. Which one did you use on the bed?
Spoke to keenovo this week about getting a mat made for the ender 5 plus, should be released next week, will definitely be doing this mod soon.
For existing machines, simply use a round heating pad with the highest rating. Common 3D printers have low reliability on their maximum dimensions anyway, and the temperature difference will only be a few degrees.
i did the same last week and still waiting
You should use oval holes on the bed mount because of the heat expansion. Or if you simply constrain it then your bed will warp when you heat it up.
Just got massive holes :)
@vector 3d im doing my own 3d printrer build what are the layers to a heat bed?
Great Video! Very detailed explanation! Inspired me to upgrade my Printer.
I'm working on a 220x330 bed.. and got 5mm aluminium. It's seems too thick for this size bed.. should i go for 3mm for a lighter bed?
i would keep with 5mm personally. make sure you have sufficent motor torque and blet strength to make it move how you want though.
@@Vector3DP wow that was quick! thanks for the advice! awesome! motor is fine! so i'm gonna keep it and proceed with the build!
I would get "cast aluminum plate" for example, precision machined alca 5 or mic 6 trade names. These will have a +/- .005" flatness tolerance. They have a uniform grain structure and not warp as bad as per say 6061, 5005, 3003 cold or hot rolled aluminum.
Tool plate is cast aluminium plate 👍
Actually Midwest steel supply says their flatness tolerance is .015 which is .38 mmm :-/
What 3D printers need is a Faster Cool down, safe on glass, so they can remove parts quicker: Peltier Cooling Module ?
Good video! One point of feedback; you're giving a lot of explanation on why you make certain decisions in your design, which is great. However for a guide you're not giving a lot of explanation on how to execute things or why you're doing certain things. It might be useful to have little text bubbles explaining things during the mini montages of you drilling/glueing/whatever. e.g. using a larger drill bit if you don't have a deburring tool etc.
Additionally, whilst I agree that you shouldn't pick a heater with too much power, it doesn't HAVE to cause issues. You still have a tuneable feedback loop, so you can change your proportional gain in your PID values to prevent heating too quickly.
Deciding what to include and what not to include is probably the most difficult to answer, i'm trying to focus the guide on the specific topic and I have to assume some skills in other areas. I felt the skills needed to assemble were basic, and if not then they are shown and you could get other guides elsewhere.
Using PID to slow the heating is like patching a mistake where you bought a heater that was too powerful, but ye i guess that could work to some extent.
Hi thanks for share, sorry how do you calculete the 800 Watts 220 V that apperas in the video when the calculation of de formula is 200 Watts? did I lose something?
can we use a 220V heater pad on 230V power supply
I am using a 120V 750W heater on my CR-10, best upgrade I ever have done! Why were you wearing a respirator when you put the magnet on? I just want to make sure that there isn't some health risk that I am taking on accident.
Mask was for the large amount of IPA I used to clean the bed.
Why did you change the bed on the Raptor exactly? I didn't quite understand that.
you didnt show how to connect the wiring of the heated bed!! and whats better with the wham bam, pei or pex?
where did you buy the aluminum sheet?
where did you buy the ALU plate?
What cad software is it being used?
One of the things I misordered was a 1000x1000mm heated bed, I realized after I should have specified some holes to be made around the center for additional mounting to prevent warping. What are your thoughts on drilling holes through a silicone heated bed and resealing it with some high temperature silicone?
I am probably not going to punch holes through it, just wondering your thoughts, no worries
You'll hit the traces which will ruin the bed. if you dont break them, they'll be thinner and overheat. Just don't do it.
@@Vector3DP thanks, I really appreciate hearing that o7
@@Bajicoy could you sandwich it between 2 plates?
Where did you source the alluminum? Love the upgrade.
I tend to order MIC6 aluminum from Midwest Steel in the U.S. I use it for a Voron printer.
@@marcosramirez385 how flat is Midwest Steels aluminum?
Hi Adam, I have an Ender 5 Plus that has a 377mm X 370mm plate that is warped so I am weighing up the options of either trying to flatten the plate or buying a new one, can you please tell me where you purchased yours and the price?
If i remember correctly, i bought mine from clickmetal. I googled "cast aluminium tooling plate uk"
Adam where did you get that inexpensive blue filament from?
IIRC he gets his filament from Ooznest
Yup, Ooznest is the stuff on cardboard spools in the background. Great people, great filament, great price.
@@Vector3DP There is some nice stuff on the web-site, I have always used cheap PLA and mid-priced PETG, I bought some Flashforge PLA last week and had a 16-hour print fail x2 because the filament got trapped between terrible windings.
I'm going to give Ooznest a try as they are UK based and I guess if I need any advice on the products they are an e-mail or a call away, its a little more expensive than what I usually buy but I would rather pay more for filament I can trust
I have been looking for the aluminum to do the same upgrade on my CR-10. Any way you could let us know where you got it ?
Click metal in the UK, or filafarm in Germany.
@@Vector3DP Can you give us some specs on that aluminum plate?
@@MakerMark Look for Mic6 aluminum. Its very rigid and flat, and it's typically precision ground.
If you're in the US, McMaster-Carr is a good source
DEFINITELY add a THERMAL FUSE Seriously do it those heaters can be very dangerous. And GROUND YOUR FRAME AND BED. Seriously AC is no joke and those cheaper solid state relays are scary
They can actually sometimes melt metal and put out horrible fumes too if they stay connected
I've implemented bought beds with thermal fuse before, not sure if i will this time. Of course bed and frame will be grounded. As mentioned, wiring etc is in a different video. These SSRs are really over rated for this use, i've never had them even get slightly warm, let alone need a heatsink or melt anything.
@@Vector3DP The thermal fuse is also useful in case the adhesive of the silicon pad give up. If so, the feedback loop will increase the duty cycle and the silicon heater will overheat (and damaged what's underneath if only secured with the adhesive)
I've also noticed that you haven't sealed the edges of the silicon heater. www.keenovo.com/User's-Manual-Keenovo-Flexible-Heaters.pdf
According to the manufacture it's recommended to do so. Even though it's not so common, some people have demonstrated an increased adhesive durability. (One theorie is that oxygen from the air deteriorate the glue and so sealing the edges will reduce this effect)
Some source and demonstration about the Thermal Fuse necessity : forum.duet3d.com/topic/10406/ssr-failsafe/4
2.bp.blogspot.com/-tQ7n9H-dqRA/XMZWv-7lpTI/AAAAAAAAZeY/6WNVQD6TjbUqj8xpYVaS4gUmfYI_NAJKACLcBGAs/s1600/burnt%2Bheater.jpg
drmrehorst.blogspot.com/2018/11/interesting-3d-printer-failures.html?m=1
@@Vector3DP accidents do happen, the worst part is that they fail in an ON state. meaning not even thermal runaway can save you. trust me it's worth it. accidents happen! better to not take the risk
Pei sadly is bad for pure polycarbonate :( I like polycarbonate sheets/buildtac for this reason
Have you thought of using carbon fiber? Very light weight, very flat. Since it is carbon, i thing it could have decent thermal properties, maybe the epoxy resin couldn't handle the 100°+ (maybe it could, I don't know)
Its just hard to get hold of, and not sure pricing would be sensible either
Oh man i bought a 750 watts power silicone heated bed to use it on a 310x310mm bed T_T, if your math its correct than i need only 500watts, I would damage my aluminium? 50 dls waist?? T_T
Use firmware to limit the power output
by changing the max pwm down by about a third.
I find it odd that for the very purpose of transmitting heat keenovo choose 2 terrible heat conductors silicone and fibreglass. It's the same for cooking don't use silicone unless your primary reason is nonstick because it's very bad at heat transfer!
should haVE SHOWN the wire hook up
Stop using heated bad and simply use full boxed warmed enclosure. Less dangerous and much better print result.
any ideas on how to ???
I did this upgrade last week....
Hi. I wonder why i can not find any 48v silicon heated bed's?
Everywhere i look i only can find 12v, 24v, 110v or 220v bed's.
Does anyone know why i should not use a 48v silicon heated bed?
I have a Mean Well 48v 13A powersupply.
So what was it? 6 or 7 embedded ads in this video? Not sure if you have any control over this, but I now I won't be wasting any more of my time watching any more of your videos because I am going to assume they are stuffed FULL of ads. Which is too bad as the video was pretty good.
Ye i have absolutely no control over how many ads show up.
@@Vector3DP Sorry to hear that. It almost looks like Google is trying to grind TH-cam into the ground.
4 sec ago, nice
That plate is a LOT of weight to accelerate........
As mentioned, higher weight generally requires slower acceleration for that axis, but otherwise not a problem.
Punching that flat tool plate on wobbling wood table hurt me 😭 you lost your flatness 😑
why tf is he wearing a respirator ???
man , you wave with your hands so much man , makes me dizzy