Thanks, I appreciate that. Today I went even farther and reinforced where the seat bolts in with steel and fiberglass underneath (hopefully tomorrow's video but I'm getting a late start editing). Just seems so flimsy how Suzuki did it.
@FixLife119 yeah I can agree with that statement. I got a little more lucky with my seats I didn't have rust like that. But I lost the battle with where my battery sits. Almost through the fender well. I have to weld a plate in and reinforce it. But I do like you have the webber tho. I read it gives you an extra 30 hp ontop of the standard 66hp it comes with. Plus you don't have the big air box as well. I'll get one here soon!
@@codywaldron505 Ya know I was wondering if it has more than stock with the header and that Weber carb. Geeze a 30hp gain on 65 would be insane, that's almost 50%, you don't get that with a supercharger lol. It ain't fast by any means but it feels like it has more than 65. Not sure if you saw how restricted my exhaust is (muffler is blowing exhaust out holes in the front, hardly any out the tail pipe) but hopefully replacing that will help too. Sucks about your battery box. That sulfuric acid in a leaky battery will corrode them quick unfortunately.
With all the projects you have and probably will have you should invest in a budget 120v mig welder for the channel. I think even at $180-$200 price range it would be a reasonable expense and would serve you well.
I would love to have room for more tools just don't have the space. That's why I have tools at my parents, tools in the Jeep, tools in the tool box etc. I'd have a bench vice, welder, pressure washer, bearing press, drill press ...
@@FixLife119I got all that come up here and practice on this one u know make sure that's how u want urs. U can use anything in building. Me and pops just paid off Hobart 140 mig going get plasma wacky Wacker next. Got hobo fart drill press ,klutch fab table, black n Decker port a band new DeWalt 20 volt big grinder, drills, and ratchet hyper puff. Actually not bad at 35$ bargain with batt and charger. Hell yeah start now I'll see u n month if ur driving zuk here they make it anywhere but that fast place. It definitely go she just slow. To floor to back to 4th losing rpmers.lol
I with ya. I'm sure alot of people will say that. I'm showing another way of doing it for those without a welder. I'm sure the majority of channels would show welding so this is another option. Thanks for watching!
Great video on what not to do. One of the only things strapping you to the car has greatly been compromised. Please never sell the car to anyone but your biggest enemy.
@@ripnandtearing Lol, in AZ this is borderline throwaway haha. I have so much respect for mechanics that work where they salt the roads. They would be in heaven if they worked a day here in southern AZ, it would seem like they're cheating not having to deal with all the probs associated with corrosion lol.
@@FixLife119 I need to do some work to the tub on mine to get some more life out of it.Its getting pretty beat up but is really rusty..I have another one on 40s that is completely smashed up but rust wise it's in better shape since it hasn't seen salt in years.
@@ripnandtearing I watched a few of your video's (and subscribed) and I can see why your tub is slightly beat up, holly shit you go some places! That's awesome!
About rust … Brush/grind it down to shiny metal. The less black spots the better because the black spots are rust in the making. Cover small holes by welding new material covering the hole. When all metal is shiny like a stainless steel pot, apply rust protection with zinc in it. The zinc in the paint will over time sacrifice itself and that way protect the naked metal from corrosion. After the zinc paint is applied continue with whatever covering color you prefer. Do annual rust inspections and repeat the procedure described above when needed. In frames or other structures that are more of a tubing apply/spray rust protection. All said, I have very little confidence/trust the rust “converter” product you use. The only way of stopping corrosion is to replace the corroded section. Nothing else will be as good over time. I.e., rust conversion product is just a good way of pulling cash out of gullible ignorants.
Quite bad, that's why I try to buy one but restored by someone I trust or one in better condition, it's true that either of these options are more expensive, but I'll probably avoid surprises. That's my intention and hence my interest in your videos, but I don't have the knowledge or the tools that you have, I moved with my family from the city to the countryside in an isolated area with bad roads, I have a small crossover but to go buy food for the animals, hay and other cargo is not recommended, but I have to wait for one with a fairer price because here in Portugal they no longer import this type of small jeeps, it's just Crossovers, Lands, Toyotas... top-of-the-range models full of electronics ready to break down and go directly to dealers' computers and old models such as Suzuki Samurai, Santana, SJ 410/413 or Daihatsu F50 or TAFT reached exorbitant prices. Well, sorry was my explanation because I follow your videos, thank you.
What about a small truck? Could you maybe do a small truck and put a camper shell on it if you wanted to enclose it? That's a real bummer. Sounds like you appreciate the simplicity and ease of fixing yourself. Some might call me crazy but I really think we're gonna face an EMP in our lifetimes. You probably have less of a chance being in Portugal (unless it's the result of coronal mass ejection instead of nuclear), I think the US is a huge target right now. Anyways I like simple stuff. Stuff I don't have to rely on others to use. I think alot of people do, that's why they go for so much when they really aren't worth it, but you know what they say... it's worth whatever someone will pay for it. Alot of the tools I have are redundant and just make things quicker but you don't really need most of them. I bought alot of tools with my last job because it was piece work and time was money. Alot of the rust stuff I'm doing could just be done with sandpaper. Well I hope you can get a good deal on something that you want that will work good on those rough roads. I bet its beautiful there! Thank you for watching!
Yeah, you're right. I think I even said that in one of the videos because the seat belt mounts are considerably beefier! Although in a wreck when the seat belt is holding me in at 50 G's I don't want the added weight of the seat pushing me into the belt lol.
wow that didnt look like a lot of support. one of your comments talked about a welder look into a hobart thr a very good welder , i understand about going cheap the problem you'll have is it wont perform well you'll get discouraged and stop or you'll get a better one. in the long run its better to start with a good one. lookin good buddy! looks like you the days supply of super glue
Right, I'm good for a day or two now lol. Yeah, so flimsy idk what suzuki was thinking, other than let's put a 1.3l in it and it'll never go fast enough to crash that hard lol. I wish I had room for a welder, and a drill press, and a bench vice, pressure washer. Hell I wish I had room enough so I didn't have to keep some of my tools in the Jeep and a bunch at my parents.
lol room once you have it you out grow it. i think a 4.3 vortec will fit in a samurai like out of an 80ish blazer or truck, then look out youd rip the floor out for sure@@FixLife119
That's the one from Harbor Freight. I love that thing. It lasts so much longer than the headband ones, but that's because it uses an 18650 battery, and I have some better 18650's than what they come with because I use them for other things. I think they go on sale for $20 or $25 quite a bit.
@@jbullock5288 I just went on HF website and didn't see it. It's on Amazon for $33.99 It's called the Next LED 350. I don't think I paid that much, maybe $30 tops but that was a few years ago and I used it at work so it holds up pretty well. Had a coworker that kept his in his tool belt where it should have gotten beat to sh!t but his didn't break so they're pretty tough!
@@jbullock5288 HI again. So I went to HF today and they didn't have the exact one I have but a very similar one for $23.99. It had a yellow tag "Instant Savings" 20% off, normally $29.99. Anyways it looks like it's just the newer version of what I have. It's a Braun 500 Lumens (I think mine is only 350). It said limited time, ends 03/07.
Ole bring warm clothes as a only got building for the old handed down,new cheapo, and few decents we got do ground n pound here. Get ur hammer 🔨 pound that rock 🪨in the ground farther. Ground n pound. this rock too or ur side and middle back going say nah. Go ahead with out me tomorrow im stay here n bed. Lol 😂
Your damn sure getting after it. A lot of people would of said the hell with it and painted it. It's a good job. Will pay off in the long run
Thanks, I appreciate that. Today I went even farther and reinforced where the seat bolts in with steel and fiberglass underneath (hopefully tomorrow's video but I'm getting a late start editing). Just seems so flimsy how Suzuki did it.
@FixLife119 yeah I can agree with that statement. I got a little more lucky with my seats I didn't have rust like that. But I lost the battle with where my battery sits. Almost through the fender well. I have to weld a plate in and reinforce it.
But I do like you have the webber tho. I read it gives you an extra 30 hp ontop of the standard 66hp it comes with. Plus you don't have the big air box as well. I'll get one here soon!
@@codywaldron505 Ya know I was wondering if it has more than stock with the header and that Weber carb. Geeze a 30hp gain on 65 would be insane, that's almost 50%, you don't get that with a supercharger lol. It ain't fast by any means but it feels like it has more than 65. Not sure if you saw how restricted my exhaust is (muffler is blowing exhaust out holes in the front, hardly any out the tail pipe) but hopefully replacing that will help too. Sucks about your battery box. That sulfuric acid in a leaky battery will corrode them quick unfortunately.
With all the projects you have and probably will have you should invest in a budget 120v mig welder for the channel. I think even at $180-$200 price range it would be a reasonable expense and would serve you well.
I would love to have room for more tools just don't have the space. That's why I have tools at my parents, tools in the Jeep, tools in the tool box etc. I'd have a bench vice, welder, pressure washer, bearing press, drill press ...
@@FixLife119I got all that come up here and practice on this one u know make sure that's how u want urs. U can use anything in building. Me and pops just paid off Hobart 140 mig going get plasma wacky Wacker next. Got hobo fart drill press ,klutch fab table, black n Decker port a band new DeWalt 20 volt big grinder, drills, and ratchet hyper puff. Actually not bad at 35$ bargain with batt and charger. Hell yeah start now I'll see u n month if ur driving zuk here they make it anywhere but that fast place. It definitely go she just slow. To floor to back to 4th losing rpmers.lol
If you hit something at 50mph in the Samari the car would crush like a beer can ,the seat support would be the least of your problems
Lol, I'm sure you're right. Maybe Suzuki just figured with the 1.3 it would never get to those speeds haha.
In my humble opinion you should weld it. 20 minutes of welding and everything was elegantly fixed. Anyway, best regards
I with ya. I'm sure alot of people will say that. I'm showing another way of doing it for those without a welder. I'm sure the majority of channels would show welding so this is another option. Thanks for watching!
@@FixLife119 thanks for reply 👍🏻
@@wzgorzeowiec Of course, thank you for the comment 👍
It needs welding the front floor pan is rusting away from the rear where original the back seats would of been ,death trap
😂 it's fine.Im guessing you live somewhere where vehicles don't rust.
Great video on what not to do.
One of the only things strapping you to the car has greatly been compromised.
Please never sell the car to anyone but your biggest enemy.
You should watch the video after that one. You only saw what I did on the top side.
It's going to be just fine.If you seen my rig you would have an aneurysm on the spot.This rig is practically rust free.
@@ripnandtearing Lol, in AZ this is borderline throwaway haha. I have so much respect for mechanics that work where they salt the roads. They would be in heaven if they worked a day here in southern AZ, it would seem like they're cheating not having to deal with all the probs associated with corrosion lol.
@@FixLife119 I need to do some work to the tub on mine to get some more life out of it.Its getting pretty beat up but is really rusty..I have another one on 40s that is completely smashed up but rust wise it's in better shape since it hasn't seen salt in years.
@@ripnandtearing I watched a few of your video's (and subscribed) and I can see why your tub is slightly beat up, holly shit you go some places! That's awesome!
About rust …
Brush/grind it down to shiny metal. The less black spots the better because the black spots are rust in the making.
Cover small holes by welding new material covering the hole.
When all metal is shiny like a stainless steel pot, apply rust protection with zinc in it. The zinc in the paint will over time sacrifice itself and that way protect the naked metal from corrosion.
After the zinc paint is applied continue with whatever covering color you prefer.
Do annual rust inspections and repeat the procedure described above when needed.
In frames or other structures that are more of a tubing apply/spray rust protection.
All said, I have very little confidence/trust the rust “converter” product you use. The only way of stopping corrosion is to replace the corroded section. Nothing else will be as good over time. I.e., rust conversion product is just a good way of pulling cash out of gullible ignorants.
Olá
Falando aqui do BRASIL
Brother...
Você tem que fazer SOLDA MIG para refazer o piso
Grande abraço
E estou me divertindo com seus vídeos!!
Sorry brother my Spanish isn't up to par but that's for watching!
Quite bad, that's why I try to buy one but restored by someone I trust or one in better condition, it's true that either of these options are more expensive, but I'll probably avoid surprises. That's my intention and hence my interest in your videos, but I don't have the knowledge or the tools that you have, I moved with my family from the city to the countryside in an isolated area with bad roads, I have a small crossover but to go buy food for the animals, hay and other cargo is not recommended, but I have to wait for one with a fairer price because here in Portugal they no longer import this type of small jeeps, it's just Crossovers, Lands, Toyotas... top-of-the-range models full of electronics ready to break down and go directly to dealers' computers and old models such as Suzuki Samurai, Santana, SJ 410/413 or Daihatsu F50 or TAFT reached exorbitant prices. Well, sorry was my explanation because I follow your videos, thank you.
What about a small truck? Could you maybe do a small truck and put a camper shell on it if you wanted to enclose it? That's a real bummer. Sounds like you appreciate the simplicity and ease of fixing yourself. Some might call me crazy but I really think we're gonna face an EMP in our lifetimes. You probably have less of a chance being in Portugal (unless it's the result of coronal mass ejection instead of nuclear), I think the US is a huge target right now. Anyways I like simple stuff. Stuff I don't have to rely on others to use. I think alot of people do, that's why they go for so much when they really aren't worth it, but you know what they say... it's worth whatever someone will pay for it. Alot of the tools I have are redundant and just make things quicker but you don't really need most of them. I bought alot of tools with my last job because it was piece work and time was money. Alot of the rust stuff I'm doing could just be done with sandpaper. Well I hope you can get a good deal on something that you want that will work good on those rough roads. I bet its beautiful there! Thank you for watching!
The seats don't hold you in the vehicle the seat belts do.
Yeah, you're right. I think I even said that in one of the videos because the seat belt mounts are considerably beefier! Although in a wreck when the seat belt is holding me in at 50 G's I don't want the added weight of the seat pushing me into the belt lol.
wow that didnt look like a lot of support. one of your comments talked about a welder look into a hobart thr a very good welder , i understand about going cheap the problem you'll have is it wont perform well you'll get discouraged and stop or you'll get a better one. in the long run its better to start with a good one. lookin good buddy! looks like you the days supply of super glue
Right, I'm good for a day or two now lol. Yeah, so flimsy idk what suzuki was thinking, other than let's put a 1.3l in it and it'll never go fast enough to crash that hard lol. I wish I had room for a welder, and a drill press, and a bench vice, pressure washer. Hell I wish I had room enough so I didn't have to keep some of my tools in the Jeep and a bunch at my parents.
lol room once you have it you out grow it. i think a 4.3 vortec will fit in a samurai like out of an 80ish blazer or truck, then look out youd rip the floor out for sure@@FixLife119
@@numbskullskills Throw a syclone or typhoon motor in it lol.
that would be a crazy ride my friend! when you doin it? lol@@FixLife119
@@numbskullskills As soon as I find a free wrecked donor, they're just slightly rare though, so we'll see lol.
man you need a $99 Harbor Freight flux core welder to stitch those broken seat mounts together... that ain't a job for super glue and bondo.
It'll make more sense when the next video comes out either today or tomorrow. It'll be way better than factory. Those factory tabs are a joke!
Please tell us you welded the cracks in the floor.
Metal thickness … You do not, under any circumstances, crash in a Samurai or a Jimny.
What light us that your using! The long one with the magnet
That's the one from Harbor Freight. I love that thing. It lasts so much longer than the headband ones, but that's because it uses an 18650 battery, and I have some better 18650's than what they come with because I use them for other things. I think they go on sale for $20 or $25 quite a bit.
@@FixLife119 thanks. Was there today and saw one for $39, wasn’t sure if it was that one.
@@jbullock5288 I just went on HF website and didn't see it. It's on Amazon for $33.99 It's called the Next LED 350. I don't think I paid that much, maybe $30 tops but that was a few years ago and I used it at work so it holds up pretty well. Had a coworker that kept his in his tool belt where it should have gotten beat to sh!t but his didn't break so they're pretty tough!
@@jbullock5288 HI again. So I went to HF today and they didn't have the exact one I have but a very similar one for $23.99. It had a yellow tag "Instant Savings" 20% off, normally $29.99. Anyways it looks like it's just the newer version of what I have. It's a Braun 500 Lumens (I think mine is only 350). It said limited time, ends 03/07.
@@FixLife119 thanks I see it.
Ole bring warm clothes as a only got building for the old handed down,new cheapo, and few decents we got do ground n pound here.
Get ur hammer 🔨 pound that rock 🪨in the ground farther. Ground n pound. this rock too or ur side and middle back going say nah. Go ahead with out me tomorrow im stay here n bed. Lol 😂