You should drill some shallow holes where the ring sits, throw some strong magnets in them, maybe it will keep the rings from rattling when you're operating.
It is rare to find equipment with handy tie down points built in... mostly on rental equipment. Personally, I use 2 - 20' chains and 4 binders for nearly everything. Just be sure you have plenty of thread showing so the DOT man doesn't squawk like that bird did. The bird doesn't snatch your wallet like the DOT man will!
It always amazes me how many people will say they don't have the time for that to be more efficient, then spend 30 minutes dragging and fighting chain every time they load their equipment.... I cant even remember how many of them D-rings I've welded on stuff.
If it were me I would’ve put D-rings on either end of the track frame. No matter what the manual says chaining down the hydraulically moved / held in place blade is a no-go. Hydraulics can fail or leak down and let the machine move. Binders hooked on the outside of the rub rail like that would get you pulled over too. I agree some stuff is a pain to chain down. Deere was usually really good about having loops or some feature on the frame to hook to easily.
Hooking on that blade is fine because when let down like that it will not move. Also if there was ever an accident bad enough for him to loose the machine when hooked to the blade and the rear along with the boom there would not be a ticket or other lives put in harms way. The cleanup after the situation would involve the machine being removed from the trailer also.
@@christaphorn7130 DOT/FMCSA made execeptions a few years ago , think the wording is "must be secure inside rub rub unless not practical", but yes I never run outside of the rub and never with the hook-endopen end facing up. These are binder but if they would fail or start to get loose that binder hook is going to fall straight down ( think about it it's physic & gravity ) . He would be better off with 4 chain and 4 binders. He might be better off getting a stake pocket D ring mount. They are not overly price. I would also have weld the saddle to the top of the blade if enough material exist in that excavator backfill blade.
Nice! My Vermeer 70TX stump grinder has the D rings on the side of the tracks. I have D rings on the trailer too and have my binders attached to the deck with a shackle. That way I only have to attach one end of the binder.
Very nice. Added a receiver and 2 one inch D rings to my gooseneck for winch usage and tie down points. Great work Sam. Nice to see Boone just hanging out supervising.
The holes in the blade are for hoisting the machine with a crane as well as tying it down. There should be a diagram that shows the proper rigging points to lift the machine with cranes onto ships and so on. A tail chain(short length of chain with only one hook) can be threaded through those holes in the blade and hooked short into itself. Gives a secure point to hook your binders. Not s
Shackles, as long as rated correctly, make sure made in USA, china one been known to fail. Keep eye on the new hooks could see snagging them on stuff in the woods. Great content love your channels
I've got a 2019 cat 305e2 (granted it's smaller) but it's got 2 spots on each track that makes tie downs golden. Make up some 4ft chains with 1 hook and use tie downs from there.
Our Doosan excavator had a hook on the outside of the track frame and the hole in the blade is oval so a hook will go in it. I've got an assortment of 5', 6' and 8' chains with a grab hook on one end and a slip hook on the other which makes it easy to chain equipment down without climbing onto the trailer.
gotta agree with ya, my Kubota tractor sucks to tie down.......only a tie down location on the backhoe, nothing on the front frame or axle, and the way the hydro-steering is located is great for keeping the steering safe from brush but sucks for running tie-down chains over it. in looking at the Mech, it might be cool to custom modify a couple of tie-down binders with a short length of chain to allow it to find that perfect angle... looks like a 1 foot extension on the trailer side would be just about perfect
Looks good to me. Long ass chains get pretty freakin heavy when you're on load 4 for the day, you've been at it since dawn, and the sun is starting to set. Small stuff like this counts a lot when you're tired
Cat has the tie down spots on the outside. I used to use 1 big chain on each side with the hooks on the equipment and the binders hooked to the deck. All the chains slack was dangling on the side but not long enough to get tangled into anything.
I use to carry short short chains (12-18") just for those situations where on hole is to close and the next hole is to far........easy to handle and did the trick
With the tiedown points that far out, you have a very limited selection of tiedown points on some trailers to get a suitable angle on the chain / binder. because the distance is quite short. Also your connections are pretty vertical, so they don't do much to restrain the machine sideways until it has slid a few inches. Probably all things that the manufacturers don't see as reliable ways to secure equipment. They could just leave a hole of sorts in the side of the track carriage for those who want to do it your way though.
@@VBELTandSON Yeah that's true in practice, you get away with a lot. The manufacturer needs to prove their machine is safe under exceptional conditions though, like an evasive manoeuvre. They will always test it to strict external regulations and that's what they build it for. In some sense they probably don't give you the easy option to force you to use the very safe tiedown method, which is in the eyes of the end user of course overkill in most practical cases.
Your tie downs are put on the inside of the track, so you cross the chains from the tie down point to the other side of the bed . This will stop the equipment sliding sideways. Using only straight tie downs, just stops forward and backward movement. So if you do this on your metal track equipment it could slide and roll your trailer over.
My metal track machines have these from factory. Not sure how hard core your roads are but if you make a machine slide with these tiepoints you’re doing something way wrong
See heavy haulers with very large equiment that do the same thing all the time. 20,000 lbs on rubber tracks with four binders that can put a lot of force ( pressure) on those tracks won't move to much. autos, rubber tired machines, skid steers, farm tractors. Yes x the tie downs and yes. If I dont cross the chains with the skid steers I use they will bounce around. Just keep checking your rings and mounts for wear over time
Take it you never hauled a skid loader with air filled tires on junk roads then. That's all I have in my area county gov't half jobs and freeze thaw all winter with the bs amount of salt all winter the roads dont last grinding them to gravel would be better
@@VBELTandSON. I was not telling you what to , but just what the brackets are, and how to use them. I was, as you would say, a CDL driver for 40+ years and was shown +learned how to tie down lots of stuff. But in the long run you do what you need to do, as long as it`s secure and save.
It does look convenient. Not sure it's allowed to hook to the outside of the rub rails (?). Agree that they don't provide hook points... i do prefer the chain x-pattern for the rear. (just feel like the chain has some shock absorption to it, just a bit of stretch and give)
Could add a piece of flat bar or round bar a couple inches in front of the stake pockets from rub rail to frame rail to stop the hooks. Problem solved.
On the front binders are they long enough to go in front of the round piece on your rub rail??Great job and great idea. What happened to your other excavators that you used to have. Haven't seen those in a while.
Will these actually meet DOT requirements? One there are not factory tie downs spots an two the ones on the blade might not work for the 4 corners since the is not the actually machine. DOT wood working might know best.
Carry Some Screw In D rings ,Working Load is different than failure Point , The D rings you welded are not Strong enough , On Another Point 5 inch Exaust from Cat Back on My Dodge 5500 Does not Delete It, I Still Run DEF Fluid. With My Semi Truck I run HEAVY HAUL up to 60 Ton So I have to try to Know somthing
I have used and seen this on all sorts of equipment. Some break, some fail as they are sometimes cheap steel. But when we had products we really wanted to ensure it would last, we used ADB swiveling hoist rings.
Don't trust those d-rings. We used the 1" ones and bent them all. the metal is very low quality. Unless they are made by Crosby don't use any other brands.
A single M12 bolt can hold that, I guess his welds are stronger than a M12 bolt given how much welding area he has. Steel is tough, it is pretty difficult too undersize something made from steel. The excavator doesnt move in normal driving condition without tie down just with friction. Tiedown is only necessary for emergency breaking and to stop it from moving do to vibration.
You should drill some shallow holes where the ring sits, throw some strong magnets in them, maybe it will keep the rings from rattling when you're operating.
Yes every machine should have those anchor points.
It is rare to find equipment with handy tie down points built in... mostly on rental equipment. Personally, I use 2 - 20' chains and 4 binders for nearly everything. Just be sure you have plenty of thread showing so the DOT man doesn't squawk like that bird did. The bird doesn't snatch your wallet like the DOT man will!
It always amazes me how many people will say they don't have the time for that to be more efficient, then spend 30 minutes dragging and fighting chain every time they load their equipment.... I cant even remember how many of them D-rings I've welded on stuff.
If it were me I would’ve put D-rings on either end of the track frame. No matter what the manual says chaining down the hydraulically moved / held in place blade is a no-go. Hydraulics can fail or leak down and let the machine move. Binders hooked on the outside of the rub rail like that would get you pulled over too. I agree some stuff is a pain to chain down. Deere was usually really good about having loops or some feature on the frame to hook to easily.
Hooking on that blade is fine because when let down like that it will not move. Also if there was ever an accident bad enough for him to loose the machine when hooked to the blade and the rear along with the boom there would not be a ticket or other lives put in harms way. The cleanup after the situation would involve the machine being removed from the trailer also.
@@Bodie2020 I thought you learned in first grade you dont run anything outside the rub rail. Not a chain, binder, hook, or strap.
@@christaphorn7130 DOT/FMCSA made execeptions a few years ago , think the wording is "must be secure inside rub rub unless not practical", but yes I never run outside of the rub and never with the hook-endopen end facing up.
These are binder but if they would fail or start to get loose that binder hook is going to fall straight down ( think about it it's physic & gravity ) .
He would be better off with 4 chain and 4 binders. He might be better off getting a stake pocket D ring mount. They are not overly price.
I would also have weld the saddle to the top of the blade if enough material exist in that excavator backfill blade.
Nice! My Vermeer 70TX stump grinder has the D rings on the side of the tracks. I have D rings on the trailer too and have my binders attached to the deck with a shackle. That way I only have to attach one end of the binder.
Thanks Sam nice work adding tie downs .
Very nice. Added a receiver and 2 one inch D rings to my gooseneck for winch usage and tie down points. Great work Sam.
Nice to see Boone just hanging out supervising.
I built a small 5X9 utility trailer a while back. I put 6 tie down points on each side. You can never have enough.
The holes in the blade are for hoisting the machine with a crane as well as tying it down. There should be a diagram that shows the proper rigging points to lift the machine with cranes onto ships and so on. A tail chain(short length of chain with only one hook) can be threaded through those holes in the blade and hooked short into itself. Gives a secure point to hook your binders.
Not s
Work smarter not harder. Getter done 👍
Shackles, as long as rated correctly, make sure made in USA, china one been known to fail. Keep eye on the new hooks could see snagging them on stuff in the woods.
Great content love your channels
I've got a 2019 cat 305e2 (granted it's smaller) but it's got 2 spots on each track that makes tie downs golden. Make up some 4ft chains with 1 hook and use tie downs from there.
Good Job on the D rings 👍
Nice job sure makes that easier. I would just check them periodically for signs of failure. Stay safe
Our Doosan excavator had a hook on the outside of the track frame and the hole in the blade is oval so a hook will go in it. I've got an assortment of 5', 6' and 8' chains with a grab hook on one end and a slip hook on the other which makes it easy to chain equipment down without climbing onto the trailer.
gotta agree with ya, my Kubota tractor sucks to tie down.......only a tie down location on the backhoe, nothing on the front frame or axle, and the way the hydro-steering is located is great for keeping the steering safe from brush but sucks for running tie-down chains over it.
in looking at the Mech, it might be cool to custom modify a couple of tie-down binders with a short length of chain to allow it to find that perfect angle... looks like a 1 foot extension on the trailer side would be just about perfect
Looks good to me. Long ass chains get pretty freakin heavy when you're on load 4 for the day, you've been at it since dawn, and the sun is starting to set. Small stuff like this counts a lot when you're tired
Cat has the tie down spots on the outside.
I used to use 1 big chain on each side with the hooks on the equipment and the binders hooked to the deck. All the chains slack was dangling on the side but not long enough to get tangled into anything.
Yea the kubota minis have good tie down spots like you’re talking about
Very innovative, nice!
I use to carry short short chains (12-18") just for those situations where on hole is to close and the next hole is to far........easy to handle and did the trick
Nice job. 👍
love your hustle all the projects you do.
Thank you!
I would run another pass over the welds just to be safe but 🤘🏽🇺🇸
With the tiedown points that far out, you have a very limited selection of tiedown points on some trailers to get a suitable angle on the chain / binder. because the distance is quite short. Also your connections are pretty vertical, so they don't do much to restrain the machine sideways until it has slid a few inches. Probably all things that the manufacturers don't see as reliable ways to secure equipment. They could just leave a hole of sorts in the side of the track carriage for those who want to do it your way though.
Would be intense to have a machine slide at all when you’re towing. I stay off jeep trails when towing lol
@@VBELTandSON Yeah that's true in practice, you get away with a lot. The manufacturer needs to prove their machine is safe under exceptional conditions though, like an evasive manoeuvre. They will always test it to strict external regulations and that's what they build it for. In some sense they probably don't give you the easy option to force you to use the very safe tiedown method, which is in the eyes of the end user of course overkill in most practical cases.
if you are trying to weld thinner material with that mig an option is getting smaller diameter wire like 0.23 and running c25
That damn bird lol It’s insane how many machines you see out on the road ways not tied down at all
Luckily my e42 has them in the 2 spots you mentioned. Very easy to chain down and go
Your tie downs are put on the inside of the track, so you cross the chains from the tie down point to the other side of the bed . This will stop the equipment sliding sideways. Using only straight tie downs, just stops forward and backward movement. So if you do this on your metal track equipment it could slide and roll your trailer over.
My metal track machines have these from factory. Not sure how hard core your roads are but if you make a machine slide with these tiepoints you’re doing something way wrong
See heavy haulers with very large equiment that do the same thing all the time. 20,000 lbs on rubber tracks with four binders that can put a lot of force ( pressure) on those tracks won't move to much. autos, rubber tired machines, skid steers, farm tractors. Yes x the tie downs and yes. If I dont cross the chains with the skid steers I use they will bounce around. Just keep checking your rings and mounts for wear over time
@@CA-fn1wg your trying your machine down wrong if it’s bouncing
Take it you never hauled a skid loader with air filled tires on junk roads then. That's all I have in my area county gov't half jobs and freeze thaw all winter with the bs amount of salt all winter the roads dont last grinding them to gravel would be better
@@VBELTandSON. I was not telling you what to , but just what the brackets are, and how to use them. I was, as you would say, a CDL driver for 40+ years and was shown +learned how to tie down lots of stuff. But in the long run you do what you need to do, as long as it`s secure and save.
It does look convenient. Not sure it's allowed to hook to the outside of the rub rails (?). Agree that they don't provide hook points... i do prefer the chain x-pattern for the rear. (just feel like the chain has some shock absorption to it, just a bit of stretch and give)
Great idea!
Mam that is a wicked idea bud. I'll be doing that with the skid steer I wanna get and other stuff if needed 👍
Could add a piece of flat bar or round bar a couple inches in front of the stake pockets from rub rail to frame rail to stop the hooks. Problem solved.
Yeah. I like it. I’m still short chaining but been thinking bout doing the same thing
U got that right !
I would say 5 million percent lol
On the front binders are they long enough to go in front of the round piece on your rub rail??Great job and great idea. What happened to your other excavators that you used to have. Haven't seen those in a while.
I still have it
They need to do this with mowers too
Nice welds Sam, that ain't going no where.
Heck yeah Sam 👍👍
Will these actually meet DOT requirements? One there are not factory tie downs spots an two the ones on the blade might not work for the 4 corners since the is not the actually machine. DOT wood working might know best.
Shouldn’t have any issues. And blade is factory four corner hook up. Says so in the manual. No other spot at all on the blade end from factory.
Dude that sick
Grade 100 foundry hooks, $37 at Tulsa Chain. They’ll work on every factory tie down point you have
I pointed at a spot I didn’t have tie points..
Great ideal.
Carry Some Screw In D rings ,Working Load is different than failure Point , The D rings you welded are not Strong enough ,
On Another Point 5 inch Exaust from Cat Back on My Dodge 5500 Does not Delete It, I Still Run DEF Fluid.
With My Semi Truck I run HEAVY HAUL up to 60 Ton So I have to try to Know somthing
The rings are rated for me that any of my chains and binders. Not sure how that’s not good enough🤟🏻🤷🏼♂️
What binders are those?? Thanks for the response love it great content
I would've ran a 7018 stick on that.
She ain’t going anywhere
Where did you get those binders from
What size D rings do you use I want to do the same with my skid steer.
I have used and seen this on all sorts of equipment. Some break, some fail as they are sometimes cheap steel. But when we had products we really wanted to ensure it would last, we used ADB swiveling hoist rings.
Great videos!!! How are you liking your mcr 10 and what year is it I’m looking to get one too. Thanks
Nice job. What are the name of those ratchets? I need a power drill driven set like that. Thanks!!
They're called Speedbinders, should be easy to find online
@@paulhicks4340 Thank you for the quick reply. I’m going to buy a pair.
Don't trust those d-rings. We used the 1" ones and bent them all. the metal is very low quality. Unless they are made by Crosby don't use any other brands.
Crosby all the way. And making sure that they’re oriented correctly. But 100% always get Crosby for stuff that is critical.
I snapped one in 2 the other day they all suck. The cast is brittle and just decides to give!
Lost of haters in the comments. Makes me wanna do mine even more now.
That means it’s a hood video:)
100% will be seeing you grind one of these off and reweld after some crazy tree or stump jumps out and bites ya
So far so good no issues 🙌🏻
5/8"......run rod.
?
@@VBELTandSON I think he means to stick weld it
"Show them the real weld" down hand.... unfilled cratee..... me: pulm face.
As long as you are happy with it, its all that matters
😍
I thought they put the hook location in the middle so you can x you chains
Yup that’s a lot of extra unnecessary work
I doubt those welds will hold
Ain’t going anywhere
i think it’s a good idea. i’m going to do that to my excavator.
But do you have 12,000 lb welds….
Hooks will leave before the welds. Did you watch the whole video?
A single M12 bolt can hold that, I guess his welds are stronger than a M12 bolt given how much welding area he has.
Steel is tough, it is pretty difficult too undersize something made from steel.
The excavator doesnt move in normal driving condition without tie down just with friction. Tiedown is only necessary for emergency breaking and to stop it from moving do to vibration.
First at last !
12000 lbs if welded in the correct orientation, should be horizontal, shame about the welding, down hand wash, you need to go get some training.
😂😂😍
Holy here we go again…. Clueless
Can’t even figure out how to tie your machine down👍🏻
1/2 inch chain lol
Oh no the least favorite employee is commenting troll stuff again 😂
Second
🇹🇷
i love all the different ways people find to pronounce takuchi
Lol or the different ways ppl find to spell Takeuchi