Man thanks for yet more info..Im in the UK..Iv just landed a new job and then they ask me to have a go at powder coating..Im a metel worker by trade ! Welder fabricator....I didnt have a clue but i have spray pianted in the past...Mate your videos have been a massive help and source if info for me Thankyou...
Hey great job, I didn't realize how slow you were spraying it until you put the video on real time. Slow going for sure when your spraying, thanks for the video. Awesome!
Thank you for your knowledge and honesty! Can I put a texturized powder under a matte powder to achieve a texturized look? Don’t want to order a custom powder that’s super expensive and long lead time.
Thanks for all the great vids, I rewatch them over and over, I am a newbie, what is your total prep process for large panels? Or any other that you don't blast. And do you ever have any flaking will jobs that have not been blasted.
I have that same gauge. My belief with textures is that the gauge reads higher than actual thickness because the peaks of the powder hold it higher off the part. It's only a theory. 🤷♂️
I have a question...and sorry if you covered this somewhere else. I know you ground your rack when it is in your booth to the earth ground. Then you parts are hung from the rack with hooks. So, I am assuming your cart and hooks get powder built up on them from using them over and over. Do you get sufficient ground through all of that? Or do you have to sand blast you hooks and clean contact points periodically? Thanks in advance.
They cannot account for the shrinkage during curing. The issue comes into proper ground, charging the powder correctly, hand speed, and curing the part for the correct time at the correct temperature. He needs to go through everything again first imo before investing in one of those. Heck, it could be something as simple as an injector throat needing replacement, or turning up the fluidizing bed. Its always the small things that get missed.
That's way slow for me. I do custom bumpers, tool boxes and headache racks and use that same wrinkle black for time to time. I probably have my powder flow settings a lil higher and have a different spray technique but always comes out looking Badass
This was really new to me, and I hated it....but I just did 8 more and all came out perfect...im getting the hang. Also I think I need a new electrode.....
I have a question. I'm looking to upgrade my beadblaster from eastwood and it seems the rims im starting to get are getting big. What would you suggest bead blasting cabinet
Absolutely, we use a conversion coating of phosphate, it adds chemical etching to help with paint adhesion. Its not economical to blast everything and most things powder coated are not blasted.
Humidity plays a role in textures. Turn up your incoming air to kinda help separate the powder more, then lower to your standard flow. Usually for me- (in a hopper not hand canister) I get better fluidization. It also helps build up the electrical current of the paint. Get those molecules moving. Maybe over thinking but textures also have base color so they dont always mix good on a standard setting right away it seems. Or I have no patience to wait.
Shoot I just lay it on like any other powder 50% over lap going horizontal and then back across vertical flash it in the oven do it again then flash and mist from afar. Works everytime
Thanks for watching, check out our links, and make sure to sub....cause it only gets better!
Man thanks for yet more info..Im in the UK..Iv just landed a new job and then they ask me to have a go at powder coating..Im a metel worker by trade ! Welder fabricator....I didnt have a clue but i have spray pianted in the past...Mate your videos have been a massive help and source if info for me Thankyou...
Hey great job, I didn't realize how slow you were spraying it until you put the video on real time. Slow going for sure when your spraying, thanks for the video. Awesome!
I use math black texture as a base coat for hypershifting clear coats.
Thank you for your knowledge and honesty!
Can I put a texturized powder under a matte powder to achieve a texturized look?
Don’t want to order a custom powder that’s super expensive and long lead time.
Thanks for passing on the knowledge.
I do alot of lc poly peal that you have to put that kinda of millage with that powder too.
Have the same probleme ...before i see your video i use prismatic technic whit panel and was successful..good job Dan
THANKS FOR WATCHING!
Thanks for all the great vids, I rewatch them over and over, I am a newbie, what is your total prep process for large panels? Or any other that you don't blast. And do you ever have any flaking will jobs that have not been blasted.
Thanks for watching! we will do a prep vid soon!
How do you calculate cost? How do you quote a job? Good Video...mistakes do cost time money and energy. DW
I have that same gauge. My belief with textures is that the gauge reads higher than actual thickness because the peaks of the powder hold it higher off the part. It's only a theory. 🤷♂️
Not a bad one!
You said you scuffed it and then redid it. What did you scuff it with?
What settings do you use to paint textures? Kv/ua/and others?
I have a question...and sorry if you covered this somewhere else. I know you ground your rack when it is in your booth to the earth ground. Then you parts are hung from the rack with hooks. So, I am assuming your cart and hooks get powder built up on them from using them over and over. Do you get sufficient ground through all of that? Or do you have to sand blast you hooks and clean contact points periodically? Thanks in advance.
we use greensolv to strip the hooks, and we drill out our holes from time to time to keep them clean!
How do you deal with truck rims that have the fake screws all around the lip? I assume they are fake. Thanks for your time with all your video's.
some have fake plastic ones, we pull them and tell the customer they will have to replace, if its just the holes that are milled we just coat em.
Is it not better to buy a meter that tells you how much powder you have before bake? Preventing to do a recoat?
They cannot account for the shrinkage during curing. The issue comes into proper ground, charging the powder correctly, hand speed, and curing the part for the correct time at the correct temperature. He needs to go through everything again first imo before investing in one of those. Heck, it could be something as simple as an injector throat needing replacement, or turning up the fluidizing bed. Its always the small things that get missed.
I’m wondering if you’d be better off dividing your mil reading in half to account for how the wrinkles spread as they are cured??
How much does this system cost?
That's way slow for me. I do custom bumpers, tool boxes and headache racks and use that same wrinkle black for time to time. I probably have my powder flow settings a lil higher and have a different spray technique but always comes out looking Badass
This was really new to me, and I hated it....but I just did 8 more and all came out perfect...im getting the hang. Also I think I need a new electrode.....
Hi guys, can a metal warehouse door with wood inside of it be coated? Thanks
Low cure only.
Love the channel. I know who Johnny Carson was. ;)
I have a question. I'm looking to upgrade my beadblaster from eastwood and it seems the rims im starting to get are getting big. What would you suggest bead blasting cabinet
Can metal that is really smooth be powder coated?🤔🤔🤔🤔
Absolutely, we use a conversion coating of phosphate, it adds chemical etching to help with paint adhesion. Its not economical to blast everything and most things powder coated are not blasted.
Is there anyway to check mill thickness before baking?
they make dry film gauges but you would need to touch that area back up after marking it.
@@RightNowPowderCoating There are a number of non-contact ‘wet’ gauges available, the one from Coatmaster AG seems to be the most user friendly.
why does my shoot out big blobs of powder sometimes
Humidity plays a role in textures. Turn up your incoming air to kinda help separate the powder more, then lower to your standard flow. Usually for me- (in a hopper not hand canister) I get better fluidization. It also helps build up the electrical current of the paint. Get those molecules moving. Maybe over thinking but textures also have base color so they dont always mix good on a standard setting right away it seems. Or I have no patience to wait.
great video,sure looks like a lot of powder going on for only 4 to 5 mil
Holy Crap. What would you estimate, about 2 lbs per cabinet?
I get 16 per 50lb box.....its bad....so just around 3lbs per box, they are over 6ft tall, over 2 feet wide and about 16 deep.
How long have you been powder coating?
5 years.
Your awesome
From what I know you need to shot the parts cold
4-6 Mil and don't shoot Textures Hot
good advice
Shoot I just lay it on like any other powder 50% over lap going horizontal and then back across vertical flash it in the oven do it again then flash and mist from afar. Works everytime