Full In-Shop Suspension Baseline - Before and After 4 Link plots, data logs and Videos at the track
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 เม.ย. 2022
- Full In-Shop Suspension Baseline - Before and After 4 Link plots, data logs and Videos at the track. This video will cover it all, no secrets, at the permission of Richie Stetter, the car's owner. Big tire 1100 HP drag car with 98" wheelbase and 4 link rear suspension with Afco Big Gun Shocks 3860BG and 125 lb 12" Afco coilover springs. See all of the before and after 4 link plots, data logs and videos with all ETs and MPH revealed!
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Samson Performance of Sam's Alignment in North Charleston, SC:
Get with us at our shop to let us help you scale your car and do a complete plot of your car as it is today and then we can discuss what changes, if any, we would recommend. We do drag car chassis tuning, chassis setup and ensure the suspension is setup for the best drag racing launches possible!
We also offer online remote services from our website here below, including this full in-shop suspension baseline service:
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Jerry Wittig at Penske Racing Shocks:
610-375-6180
Nitrogen Shock Digital Pressure Gauge:
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Anti Squat line and Instant Center and 4 Link Angles:
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Finding Center of Gravity Height:
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Original Shock and Coilover Videos:
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lower the upper fourlinkbar one hole in the front and lower the tire preasure to about 8.0psi all of this to make car struggle forward and not lean too much on the wheeliebar and still keep traction best regards david from sweden
Another great learning tool
Nice job!
Awesome info! Thanks Kevin!
Great video ! So cool to see a real world example !
Kevin, great video brother. Your making drag racing fun again for all who want to race. That Sir is how you keep the sport alive.
Thanks Jeff
Great job on the video. Love seeing the data improvement
Thanks Jared! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Glad to see your back Kev.. great video as usual 🤙🏼
Thanks 👍 Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
good stuff Kevin, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Looking at the final graph I think I would increase + the compression a couple clicks to try and hold the shock extension a little longer. My first thought on the initial 4 link setting was to bring the lower bar level or a few degrees up which is exactly what you did so I'm learning!! Thanks for a great video!!
Fantastic stuff Kevin. Thanks to you and Mr. Stetter for sharing. I'm not qualified to make recommendations but it surely looks like this thing is dialed in on the chassis. In the last video of the car leaving, I noticed a little bouncing of the right rear tire. I wonder if a little more control of the rebound on right rear shock would be helpful. My initial thought was a little more ARB but the car sure looks to be leaving nice and flat.
Great instruction! You are very clear in your explanation of the four link. Much appreciated! I would go with a lighter driver to increase my 60’😜
If I had to make changes for next round given the data you showed, 1 click softer on extension, 1 click this round and 1 click next round possibly tighter on compression and take 1/4 turn out or turn out of the sway bar
Awsome content man, love it
Great classroom session! Thanks! I was wondering what the final shock settings are and what the rear spring rate is?
I would tighten the tear shock compression and loosen the extension. Let me know if I’m even close. Thanks for the videos I want to learn as much as possible.
Good content.Looking at the data I think it needs either more tail gear or a tighter convertor.Leaning towards more gear which will essentially tighten the convertor.
Great video, best so far for me. Maybe tighten compression a click or 2 on the rear? Your not hardly crushing the tire at all with only 9 psi so squat/hit the tire a little more with tighter compression on the shocks and see if the sixty foot picks up?
Dampen the extension a bit more. Perhaps 1 on the left and 2 on the right (or 0-1) to equalize wb loading. If that helped then run the car for a while maintaining extension bias up and down for changing track conditions. If it responds accordingly then go put some runs on it to see if it gives an indicator of needing more refinement
I stopped the video before you showed how it left your shop & wrote down what I would do, then watched the rest of the video. Basic setup was almost exactly as I would do it as a starting point. I might make the IC Length a little longer if you can get it with the adjustments available. Otherwise, identical. After seeing the Racepak data, I'd tighten the Extension more & set Compression so it's about .75" on the hit. Tightening the Extension should smooth out that dipsy doodle after the initial compression. I like to get that area as smooth as possible. Maybe a little less wheelspeed down low by playing with Launch RPM or put a timing curve in it. I'm guessing it's got a small anti-roll bar in it by the looks of the shock data between Left & Right. I'd put a bigger one in like the big Bickel unit. It might take a little less Rear Spring also, might be worth a try as they aren't expensive. You need just enough to hold the car up when sitting still. ready to race.
Definitely 100% better than where it started, very nice job going through everything with the right approach. You might share the incremental wheelspeed numbers at .1, .25, .5 & 1 second. Zero the Racepak at release of the TB. Nice job Kevin!
I have questions about bump steer. My S-10 the tie rod is close to parallel to the lower control arm pivot and ball joint. upper and lower control arms arm are unequal length with the lower longer and upper short. My Question is all the bump steer in the ark of the upper control arm thru the travel? I am planning on making the upper control arm more parallel to the lower with a 1" longer ball joint stud this will also extend droop travel in no prep conditions to let the front come up more and bump steer will increase in this condition correct?
I wouldn't mess with success if the car was mine.
Tighten compression one click and loosen extension 2 clicks
Other than hoping I learn enough from your videos. How would a man pay you for an initial chassis set up? If I could get an initial starting point, I think at the track, on the phone, your videos I can figure how to adjust for conditions and surface. Thank you sir!
Take a look at samsonperformance.com/services.html and see if one those services make sense for you. Thanks!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
I would try slowing down the extension time a little. 💁
Great info. I’m not understanding how it’s 1100 hp. My car is 3640 and makes less power. It only goes 1.34 60’ but goes 5.6/8.7. Is he trying to slow it down to run an index?
Thanks for commenting! A more accurate statement on my part would have been around 1000 to 1100 HP. If you use the calculator at www.wallaceracing.com/et-hp-mph-8th.php for ET and weight of 2870 lbs you will see an estimate of 1038 HP. Also, there is more 60 foot in the car which will translate to better 1/8 mile ET. Lots of variables in HP and ET but overall 1100 HP is pretty accurate from what I know about this motor. And he is bracket racing not heads up most of the time so I am sure he is conservative on ignition timing. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
What is the link bar lengths on this short car?
20.625" Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC 3 CLICKS TIGHTER ON THE RR COMPRESSION,2 CLICKS LOSER ON THE RF REBOUND, AND CHECK WHEEL SPEED ON THE RUN, MAYBE 1/4-1/2 LB MORE IN REAR TIRES.
Why in the world is he leaving at 6k. Thing would probably work way better if it was chipped down a little bit. That’s so damn violent…and in bracket racing .020 variance is a lot.
Not enough wheel speed.
Tighten extension and drop air pressure to 7psi.