Hey man thanks for the video it’s so crazy how much real cars transfer to rc. I’ve dropped .80 off my time watching your videos that’s with out adding any motor timing just all suspension
Thank you for the great explanation. So many people spend their hard earned money and not understand the fully, myself included. Qa1's video had me confused about diesel shock settings. The video explanation was actually reversed. Thanks for the help!
Scott Nettell thanks so much for your comments! I will have a video soon dedicated just to front suspension and alignment info. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe
Thank you for the knowledge of how double ajustable shocks can help over come anti squat I've been struggling trying to get a radial to grab this may the answer now that I understand how they work it may be time the old single agustables may need to go thanks again for sharing your knowledge with us
How does a rear end go "up" into the wheel well when you can clearly see the rim getting closer to pavement at the hit? Is it not possible that the rear of car is going down vs rear end going up? As the rear of chassis goes down the spring is getting compressed which increases the force pushing rear end down.
Hello Kevin, I'm a drag racer from Germany and have been busy with chassi tuning for years. Your videos are great and easy to understand. I would just like to add my experience to the squat video, as I take a different view on this topic. It is correct that the axle goes into the car, but the chassis will go towards the ground at the same time. The spring gets more preloaded and since the car is still on the ground, the traction is increased. I am convinced that you can generate grip in both directions (above and below the AS line), the further you move away from the 100% line. It is only produced by different effects. Above the line it is generated by driving down the axis, but at the same time the spring force is reduced. If you are below the AS line the spring force increases because the tire is still on the ground, the grip increases. In addition, the squat set up gives you more body roll. To get more grip with a squat set up, compression has to be softer and extention has to be more closed, so that the chassi can be driven deeper to the ground and then keep it there. Exactly the other way around as with the Anti squat set up. I would be very happy to receive a comment. Hope you can understand my explanation in my bad english. Best regads Frank
Frank Roemer thanks so much for your comments! Sorry for my late response. I follow you and you are spot on, especially for a big tire slick car. I will be doing more videos soon about squat setups. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
lol, I don't know anything about drag suspension and I just paused it when you talk about people with sqaut turning down the compression knob probably thinking that means it will make the suspension compress less. lol. its turning down the resistance for the shock to compress in turn making the suspension compress more. in other words the shock can compress easier. Man I'm watching and learning a lot from your videos. I may be wrong about this but its like when you see a car bite off the line and it sort of sqauts and bounces and it looks like that bounce kinda of upsets the cars acceleration I would say turn up the compression knob if you had adjustable shocks. maybe turn both knobs up so it doesn't move around as much. sorry if my comment sounds dumb, I'm just trying to learn this stuff.
David Craft thanks so much for your comments! Sometimes people put more mystery in the C and R knobs for sure. The shock is really stupid in the entire equation so once you get the C knob controls how much force is required to compress/shorten the shock, and the R knob controls the opposite rebound/extension of the shock, then it gets easier to understand what change to make on your car. Front end weight transfer impacts these rear settings and that video will be out tomorrow. Many times a bounce off the line indicates initial hook, then spin, then hook, then spin and so on. Going stiffer can make this worse depending on air pressure. Also too tight a front end can contribute to bounce. Imagine how bouncy a car would be with solid bars in place of shocks. Many times a softer rear end setup is good way to start, then tighten based on what the video shows. Too much air pressure will create a basketball scenario with a slick also. Watch my latest video where I cover these scenarios and it helps tie how all these pieces begin to work together vs just 1 part : th-cam.com/video/_WpnlRVGiEI/w-d-xo.html Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Brian Boles thanks so much for your comments! More videos on the way for sure. I enjoy going over this info and helping others with figure this stuff out. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
Steve C thanks so much for your comments! Stock style anything and a radial is going to be really really tough. We at least need to be able to change some rear control arm angles and eliminate bushings. I will add to the list, but it will require mods to the stock setup. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@stevec5632 spread the word, this will come out this week for Abody suspension setups!! th-cam.com/channels/imtPkWuqdLydEey7SEwEag.htmlcommunity?lb=UgkxNpcPy-ZF4zA2Xf1m1ooW04qg9MmfETjl Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Not sure what type of rear suspension you are running... if it is any form of 4link then definitely focus on understanding Instant Center which I have many videos around that topic. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
nice video very informational, I have a 81 malibu with rear squat I need help with, where can I send you a video of the car so you can tell me what you think
ljuice27 thanks so much for your comments! Go to samsonperformance.com/services.html and check out the services we offer for suspension tuning. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
Hi thanks for the lesson I have KYB gas shocks in the rear of my 66 Mustang and an extra leaf spring how to stiffen up the back some pretty good size tires on the back and I want with a regular Monroe hydraulic shock and that seems to be a loser then the KYB gas shocks I had on the front so I get a little weight transfer it seems to be working out what do you think
Dale Chirstopher thanks so much for your comments and question! I would need more info the car but if it is working sounds like you are moving in the right direction. I prefer the double adjustable shocks for separate rebound and compression control, but definitely sounds like you are getting the weight to transfer. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
I just went through and watched a slow mo of my best 60f (275 radial pro 17lbs), after making a few adjustments to the shocks. Looking at the beadlock and wheel well arch, upon letting go of the button, it immediately separates about 3/4", the front rises 3" with no squat, rear bead does not get closer to wheel well, about 1-2ft out the rear of the car rises, bead separates even more (about another 1") and stays like this for the remainder of the run. To me it looks like I want to slow that rear rise down some, but am I wrong?
Sorry figured it out. Comparing rear squat line to instant center. Rear squat line being top of front tire to bottom of rear. Making sure instant center is above that line for 100+% anti-squat
thomas eanes thanks so much for your comments! Shoot to my email address samsalignmentsc@gmail.com and I will do what I can. I am pretty covered up but I will do what I can. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Seems a lot of your content is aimed at theory.... for that I thank you.. I am more than tired of guys that simply do "what they were told to do" without a effing clue as to the "why" part.. I believe if you understand the "why" you will need far less coaching and will likely be able to reach a lot of these adjustments on their own.. Teach them to fish...
Hey man thanks for the video it’s so crazy how much real cars transfer to rc. I’ve dropped .80 off my time watching your videos that’s with out adding any motor timing just all suspension
I love this channel because it teaches what alot of racers lack witch is not money but pure drag racing fundamentals of how to make a car work
Thanks, Deon!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC maybe one day when I can build a car
Thank you for the great explanation. So many people spend their hard earned money and not understand the fully, myself included. Qa1's video had me confused about diesel shock settings. The video explanation was actually reversed. Thanks for the help!
Fitness & Foxbodies thanks so much for your comments and glad I was able to help! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
Outstanding info. It's like going to drag racing college on a full-ride scholarship. Thank you Kevin!
Glad it was helpful! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Awesome info again Kevin. Keep them coming. Looking forward to your take on front suspension at some point. Thank you Scott
Scott Nettell thanks so much for your comments! I will have a video soon dedicated just to front suspension and alignment info. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe
Thank you for the knowledge of how double ajustable shocks can help over come anti squat I've been struggling trying to get a radial to grab this may the answer now that I understand how they work it may be time the old single agustables may need to go thanks again for sharing your knowledge with us
How does a rear end go "up" into the wheel well when you can clearly see the rim getting closer to pavement at the hit? Is it not possible that the rear of car is going down vs rear end going up? As the rear of chassis goes down the spring is getting compressed which increases the force pushing rear end down.
Hello Kevin,
I'm a drag racer from Germany and have been busy with chassi tuning for years. Your videos are great and easy to understand. I would just like to add my experience to the squat video, as I take a different view on this topic.
It is correct that the axle goes into the car, but the chassis will go towards the ground at the same time. The spring gets more preloaded and since the car is still on the ground, the traction is increased. I am convinced that you can generate grip in both directions (above and below the AS line), the further you move away from the 100% line. It is only produced by different effects. Above the line it is generated by driving down the axis, but at the same time the spring force is reduced. If you are below the AS line the spring force increases because the tire is still on the ground, the grip increases. In addition, the squat set up gives you more body roll.
To get more grip with a squat set up, compression has to be softer and extention has to be more closed, so that the chassi can be driven deeper to the ground and then keep it there. Exactly the other way around as with the Anti squat set up.
I would be very happy to receive a comment. Hope you can understand my explanation in my bad english.
Best regads Frank
Frank Roemer thanks so much for your comments! Sorry for my late response. I follow you and you are spot on, especially for a big tire slick car. I will be doing more videos soon about squat setups. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Ton of great information, the explanation of how things work is easy and in common terms to understand. Keep up the great job!
lou hernandez thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
You are an excellent teacher! Thank you!
Wow, thank you! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
@KevinWilsonSBC You are very welcome, and yes sir! 🙌
lol, I don't know anything about drag suspension and I just paused it when you talk about people with sqaut turning down the compression knob probably thinking that means it will make the suspension compress less. lol. its turning down the resistance for the shock to compress in turn making the suspension compress more. in other words the shock can compress easier. Man I'm watching and learning a lot from your videos. I may be wrong about this but its like when you see a car bite off the line and it sort of sqauts and bounces and it looks like that bounce kinda of upsets the cars acceleration I would say turn up the compression knob if you had adjustable shocks. maybe turn both knobs up so it doesn't move around as much. sorry if my comment sounds dumb, I'm just trying to learn this stuff.
David Craft thanks so much for your comments! Sometimes people put more mystery in the C and R knobs for sure. The shock is really stupid in the entire equation so once you get the C knob controls how much force is required to compress/shorten the shock, and the R knob controls the opposite rebound/extension of the shock, then it gets easier to understand what change to make on your car. Front end weight transfer impacts these rear settings and that video will be out tomorrow. Many times a bounce off the line indicates initial hook, then spin, then hook, then spin and so on. Going stiffer can make this worse depending on air pressure. Also too tight a front end can contribute to bounce. Imagine how bouncy a car would be with solid bars in place of shocks. Many times a softer rear end setup is good way to start, then tighten based on what the video shows. Too much air pressure will create a basketball scenario with a slick also. Watch my latest video where I cover these scenarios and it helps tie how all these pieces begin to work together vs just 1 part : th-cam.com/video/_WpnlRVGiEI/w-d-xo.html Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
This is awesome free information. Thanks Kevin.
Well explained & in terms we can understand. Thanks!
Very methodical discussion on the subject. Great Job! Subscribed!
Brian Boles thanks so much for your comments! More videos on the way for sure. I enjoy going over this info and helping others with figure this stuff out. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
Be nice to see video explaining how to adjust pinion angle on radial car with separation. Awesome videos!
Would you consider doing a video on setting up a stock style suspension drag radial Chevelle?
Steve C thanks so much for your comments! Stock style anything and a radial is going to be really really tough. We at least need to be able to change some rear control arm angles and eliminate bushings. I will add to the list, but it will require mods to the stock setup. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC thanks , I think you would get a ton of interest
@@stevec5632 spread the word, this will come out this week for Abody suspension setups!! th-cam.com/channels/imtPkWuqdLydEey7SEwEag.htmlcommunity?lb=UgkxNpcPy-ZF4zA2Xf1m1ooW04qg9MmfETjl
Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
With a stock rear end my car squat hard i need to know how to fix that problem
Not sure what type of rear suspension you are running... if it is any form of 4link then definitely focus on understanding Instant Center which I have many videos around that topic. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
nice video very informational, I have a 81 malibu with rear squat I need help with, where can I send you a video of the car so you can tell me what you think
ljuice27 thanks so much for your comments! Go to samsonperformance.com/services.html and check out the services we offer for suspension tuning. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
Hi thanks for the lesson I have KYB gas shocks in the rear of my 66 Mustang and an extra leaf spring how to stiffen up the back some pretty good size tires on the back and I want with a regular Monroe hydraulic shock and that seems to be a loser then the KYB gas shocks I had on the front so I get a little weight transfer it seems to be working out what do you think
Dale Chirstopher thanks so much for your comments and question! I would need more info the car but if it is working sounds like you are moving in the right direction. I prefer the double adjustable shocks for separate rebound and compression control, but definitely sounds like you are getting the weight to transfer. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Very greet video on explanation.
I just went through and watched a slow mo of my best 60f (275 radial pro 17lbs), after making a few adjustments to the shocks. Looking at the beadlock and wheel well arch, upon letting go of the button, it immediately separates about 3/4", the front rises 3" with no squat, rear bead does not get closer to wheel well, about 1-2ft out the rear of the car rises, bead separates even more (about another 1") and stays like this for the remainder of the run. To me it looks like I want to slow that rear rise down some, but am I wrong?
It depends on what you are trying to correct or change... Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Is the rear squat line, your pinion drive line?
Not following your question... give me a little more context on this one and I will try to answer it. Sorry. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Sorry figured it out. Comparing rear squat line to instant center. Rear squat line being top of front tire to bottom of rear. Making sure instant center is above that line for 100+% anti-squat
Yeah I ment help overcome squat anti squat is what we're trying to gain
Absolutely amazing info brother!! Thank you
Ben G thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Very knowledgeable
Thanks!
Thank you
Thank you so much
You're most welcome! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Could i send you a video and you give me your opinion. It is a new car and my first latter bar car.
thomas eanes thanks so much for your comments! Shoot to my email address samsalignmentsc@gmail.com and I will do what I can. I am pretty covered up but I will do what I can. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Loving your videos!
Syskill thanks so much for your comments! The feedback means a bunch! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
Good stuff once again, thanks!
Fred G thanks so much for your comments! Appreciate your support and engaging on the channel! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
Great info!
tgpatrsn thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
I always talk about it as slower and faster. Not softer and harder
Sent you an email scott Coxwell
I don’t think I got an email
Seems a lot of your content is aimed at theory.... for that I thank you.. I am more than tired of guys that simply do "what they were told to do" without a effing clue as to the "why" part.. I believe if you understand the "why" you will need far less coaching and will likely be able to reach a lot of these adjustments on their own.. Teach them to fish...
randalljames thanks so much for your comments and support on my approach! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!