Loved the video. I purchased this exact unit after watching your video. I’m on 140gal of water ran through it and I have noticed the ppm on the tds is now at 4ppm. From what I understand anything above one can cause water spots and was wondering what your experience has been?
Thank you for watching; I’m glad you enjoyed it and found the info useful. Chances are, if you’ve only run 140gals through your double tank, you have pretty hard water to begin with. I’ve been able to push the TDS up to 10ppm with minor spotting. But yes, most will agree that once you hit 4ppm, you’re asking for trouble, depending on the surface and temperature. For example, using 4ppm on glass with good vertical run-off is “generally” safe. If you’re a “Pro” then the risk is too great for anything more than “0”.
@@RVSquaredSteve figured out the issue. Long story short the tank needed to be shaken a little. What had happen is since I have my mine mounted on the wall and it’s fixed, the water had pushed the resin compacting it more on one side than another. This was causing the water to take the lease path of resistance on less compact side of the resin. So I learned that every time before using it, I give it a slight gentle shake.
We love washing with Deionized water! We use the Simple Chuck. No worry about resin refills. We just order new tanks, they send them and we return the used tanks for a discount. Much easier with less hassle. Thanks for the great videos!
Thanks for video, I live in the desert southwest with the blazing heat and have to wash fullsize truck outside unfortunately and this would help a lot. Even neutral soaps and such they dry too fast before you can towel or blow them off.
ABSOLUTELY A MUST for you!! This will be a game-changer without a doubt. Unfortunately, Arizonans have to suffer changing their DI resin (or cartridges) almost every wash-job on a large coach. You'll be able to get a few more washings for a truck, but still...it's tough to deal with the hard water in the S/W. Incidentally, if you haven't considered it, I would strongly suggest looking into a Ceramic Coating by Bob Moses. It will...again...change your wash life incredibly when in the hotter climates. They will advocate you using a LOT less soap, because the dirt won't stick. This makes the wash down faster, and a whole lot safer!!
Steve, Another Winner! Great video and subject. We were trying to decide which DI water system to get, and this really helps us see how this thing works. Also, love your setup of angling down the valves to fit under your Newell bay door. Keep up the great work, I know all of us out here really love your commitment to providing these educational videos. I also love your COFFEE shirt, and did I mention about using those quick connects :). Thanks Again.
I'm looking for a quality portable system to bring with us while we snowbird but will also be usable when we're at home and I want a spot free wash of my truck and my wife's car. This looks like it might be the winner! So, I have a couple of questions. 1. How much does the tank weigh when filled with resin but after you've drained the water out? I want to be able to carry it in/out of the RV easily and also when setting it up to wash vehicles at home. 2. Do you unhook it when flushing your RV tanks or just use the bypass valve? 3. Do you go from the spigot through your water softener and then through the DI and then to your hose/pressure washer? 4. If you completely bypass the system for flushing your RV tanks, do you just use a Y connector at the spigot? We have a 5th wheel and had really hard water at our winter resort in Florida and I want to get something that will do the job of spot free washing without too much hassle setting things up. I normally use my 1700 PSI 1.2 GPM Electric pressure washer with a foam cannon when washing the RV and my vehicles. Thanks for the video. I appreciated it very much!
Thank you for watching and your questions. I believe you may be a bit confused on the entire process and difference of "filtered" water for you everyday usage, versus "deionized" water that is strictly used for RV/Vehicle washing purposes. The two are very different, and the costs of DI resin is very expensive, especially considering you may need to change it after a SINGLE wash job in a hard-water zone. Feel free to reach out to me at gizmoscloud@gmail.com and I'll be happy to supply you with further information. I also established a webpage to show you the details of the filter system I've been assembling. rv-squared.com/waterfilter/
Hi, and thanks for watching and commenting. There is NO way of telling how many gallons I "get" out of my DI Tank since I use it in so many different locations. Every single water source will have different mineral content which will dramatically affect how long your DI resin will be effective. Is it worth it? 1,000% YES!!!! There is NO better way to protect your vehicle from damaging spots than a DI system!!!
Thank you for watching, and the question. Unfortunately, it's impossible to give you a relevant answer; there are way too many variables. For example, Arizona has horrifically hard water and will cause those with the smaller "canister" models to ruin a set of cartridges after just one wash. The size of vehicle, and how much water you use plays a big factor. So, whether you do a simply rinse, versus a full rinse/soap/rinse routine will make a huge difference. Ultimately, the TDS meter is going to tell you when to replace the media. For me, my DOUBLE tank has lasted a year, because I'm very judicial with my washing, both in frequency as well as being as miserly as possible when I do use the DI water. I know this isn't as finite of an answer as you want. I will end with the fact that every tank has a set of "anticipated usage in gallons", based upon the hardness of the water. That's about as scientific as you'll get; the rest is gonna be nothing but a "random estimate".
Just to clarify, the DI Filter will dionize a water source at low pressure, e.g. residential or campground hose-bib. AFTER the filter, on the output is where you will connect any hose, or other appliance such as a pressure washer. Hope that answers your question. Thank you for watching and commenting!
Boy, how I’ve heard! I CAN tell you that I know that the AZ water will consume one of those replaceable cartridge DI filters as quickly as a single Coach wash!! The best thing for you, is to run at least one…if not two pre-filters before the DI tank. Also don’t forget to use too-quality shampoo, such as Adam’s (who’s from Arizona, so he knows!).
You’re welcome. The “gaskets” are common washers and as easy as a garden hose to replace. How “long” they will last will vary greatly by the environmental effects, along with the mechanical abuse such as extreme tightening. I’ve had most of mine for years.
Man, that’s the $64k question Steven! I can’t even begin to guess. The only real way to know, would be to place a meter on the tank. But, that number will vary SOO much, based on what your water source is. Therefore, any number could be misleading.
You’re absolutely right, and it makes refilling SO much easier! I’ve been using one ever since the video was made; forgot to add the link to the Description. Thank you for the reminder. amzn.to/3OKUmRR
Why don't you DI your drinking water for your coach plumbing as well? Since the DI system can't support high flow why not limit your flow with a adjustable water regulator and a simple sprayer instead of a low pressure spray rig that really isn't effective? Love your channel and your delivery but I am trying to make sure I understand the gotchas before investing.
Thanks for watching, Danny. Good question about DI, but let me help you understand a bit more. RO is usually the preferred choice for “drinking water” but those systems must continually bleed water down the drain, so that’s a no-go for RVs. Those systems generate water VERY slowly. Filters are extremely expensive; with a home system running up to $400 annually. DI filtering’s main advantage is spot-free rinsing; through the removal of total dissolve solids. They are used primarily for automotive (etc.) washing. Flow isn’t necessarily an issue. In fact, the commercial pressure washers on a Newell work just fine! But...the filters are short-lived, depending on the water source. For example, ONE coach wash in Arizona will trash a $150 set of filters, or resin. Wasting that system for drinking purposes isn’t beneficial since you’re still not filtering the impurities my 3-stage does. Soft Water is a different process and will lower the hardness; generally for “household” purposes, and NOT drinking water, per se. These help with calcification as well as giving a better feel for showers as well as making soap more efficient. So…she standard for drinking water is “filtration” and, with systems like I’ve designed, impurities, chemicals, and microbes are removed whereas the above systems do not. I trust this clears things up for you.
Haven’t heard of black resin. But, I sure hope you reach out to them; I’m sure they’ll take care of you. No reason to feel you’ve wasted your money. Be sure to circle back and let us know what they say!
Not only was this very informative as I search for a DI solution for my at home car wash setup but it was highly entertaining. Thanks for the laughs
Hey, "tanks" Andrew! I'm glad you found the humor AND helpfulness in this video! Sometimes "hard" to make a video on "soft" water funny! ;-)
Great video I’m buying!
Great...go for it...no turn'n back!
Loved the video. I purchased this exact unit after watching your video. I’m on 140gal of water ran through it and I have noticed the ppm on the tds is now at 4ppm. From what I understand anything above one can cause water spots and was wondering what your experience has been?
Thank you for watching; I’m glad you enjoyed it and found the info useful. Chances are, if you’ve only run 140gals through your double tank, you have pretty hard water to begin with. I’ve been able to push the TDS up to 10ppm with minor spotting. But yes, most will agree that once you hit 4ppm, you’re asking for trouble, depending on the surface and temperature. For example, using 4ppm on glass with good vertical run-off is “generally” safe.
If you’re a “Pro” then the risk is too great for anything more than “0”.
@@RVSquaredSteve figured out the issue. Long story short the tank needed to be shaken a little. What had happen is since I have my mine mounted on the wall and it’s fixed, the water had pushed the resin compacting it more on one side than another. This was causing the water to take the lease path of resistance on less compact side of the resin. So I learned that every time before using it, I give it a slight gentle shake.
@@eatsleepreef9565 that’s great to hear! Thanks for passing the info along.
We love washing with Deionized water! We use the Simple Chuck. No worry about resin refills. We just order new tanks, they send them and we return the used tanks for a discount. Much easier with less hassle. Thanks for the great videos!
Love that idea, Trip!! Less work, more play. Will be intriguing to do a cost analysis of the two systems!
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I don’t own an RV but as you mentioned this is a game changer on windows and vehicles!!
You're welcome, Steven! It really IS a must-have when it comes to ANY shiny surfaces.
Thanks for video, I live in the desert southwest with the blazing heat and have to wash fullsize truck outside unfortunately and this would help a lot. Even neutral soaps and such they dry too fast before you can towel or blow them off.
ABSOLUTELY A MUST for you!! This will be a game-changer without a doubt. Unfortunately, Arizonans have to suffer changing their DI resin (or cartridges) almost every wash-job on a large coach. You'll be able to get a few more washings for a truck, but still...it's tough to deal with the hard water in the S/W.
Incidentally, if you haven't considered it, I would strongly suggest looking into a Ceramic Coating by Bob Moses. It will...again...change your wash life incredibly when in the hotter climates. They will advocate you using a LOT less soap, because the dirt won't stick. This makes the wash down faster, and a whole lot safer!!
Steve, Another Winner! Great video and subject. We were trying to decide which DI water system to get, and this really helps us see how this thing works. Also, love your setup of angling down the valves to fit under your Newell bay door. Keep up the great work, I know all of us out here really love your commitment to providing these educational videos. I also love your COFFEE shirt, and did I mention about using those quick connects :). Thanks Again.
Thank you for getting my humor, Ray! ;-)
I'm looking for a quality portable system to bring with us while we snowbird but will also be usable when we're at home and I want a spot free wash of my truck and my wife's car. This looks like it might be the winner! So, I have a couple of questions. 1. How much does the tank weigh when filled with resin but after you've drained the water out? I want to be able to carry it in/out of the RV easily and also when setting it up to wash vehicles at home. 2. Do you unhook it when flushing your RV tanks or just use the bypass valve? 3. Do you go from the spigot through your water softener and then through the DI and then to your hose/pressure washer? 4. If you completely bypass the system for flushing your RV tanks, do you just use a Y connector at the spigot? We have a 5th wheel and had really hard water at our winter resort in Florida and I want to get something that will do the job of spot free washing without too much hassle setting things up. I normally use my 1700 PSI 1.2 GPM Electric pressure washer with a foam cannon when washing the RV and my vehicles. Thanks for the video. I appreciated it very much!
Thank you for watching and your questions. I believe you may be a bit confused on the entire process and difference of "filtered" water for you everyday usage, versus "deionized" water that is strictly used for RV/Vehicle washing purposes. The two are very different, and the costs of DI resin is very expensive, especially considering you may need to change it after a SINGLE wash job in a hard-water zone.
Feel free to reach out to me at gizmoscloud@gmail.com and I'll be happy to supply you with further information. I also established a webpage to show you the details of the filter system I've been assembling.
rv-squared.com/waterfilter/
thanks for sharing steve can you send me the amazon link for your stand on wheels please
Thanks for watching Hanna. Here’s the link for the stand. I’ll put it in the Description as well.
amzn.to/3YwNEmj
Awesome! Just love the shirt. I don’t own one but my neighbor does. He uses a semi trunk oil funnel to change his resin. Great video wonderful product
Hey…I could have used that funnel! LOL…next time I’ll have one on hand. Thanks for the tip AND the compliment!
Awesome video, and I love the shirt!!
Thanks, Jeff!! More to come…shirt too! 😉👊
I love it!! thank you for the Video!
You’re welcome, thank you for watching!
Hello. How many gallons or months of usage did you get out of this system!?? Was it worth it ? I just ordered the Di 100 model.
Hi, and thanks for watching and commenting. There is NO way of telling how many gallons I "get" out of my DI Tank since I use it in so many different locations. Every single water source will have different mineral content which will dramatically affect how long your DI resin will be effective. Is it worth it? 1,000% YES!!!! There is NO better way to protect your vehicle from damaging spots than a DI system!!!
How many washes before changing?
Thank you for watching, and the question. Unfortunately, it's impossible to give you a relevant answer; there are way too many variables. For example, Arizona has horrifically hard water and will cause those with the smaller "canister" models to ruin a set of cartridges after just one wash. The size of vehicle, and how much water you use plays a big factor. So, whether you do a simply rinse, versus a full rinse/soap/rinse routine will make a huge difference. Ultimately, the TDS meter is going to tell you when to replace the media. For me, my DOUBLE tank has lasted a year, because I'm very judicial with my washing, both in frequency as well as being as miserly as possible when I do use the DI water. I know this isn't as finite of an answer as you want. I will end with the fact that every tank has a set of "anticipated usage in gallons", based upon the hardness of the water. That's about as scientific as you'll get; the rest is gonna be nothing but a "random estimate".
Can you use directly with a water hose or is a pressure washer needed?
Just to clarify, the DI Filter will dionize a water source at low pressure, e.g. residential or campground hose-bib. AFTER the filter, on the output is where you will connect any hose, or other appliance such as a pressure washer. Hope that answers your question. Thank you for watching and commenting!
Excellent video
Thanks Marc!
I am not sure if anything can help Arizona water. Our stuff is like drinking white rock powder... Still might be worth a try.
Boy, how I’ve heard! I CAN tell you that I know that the AZ water will consume one of those replaceable cartridge DI filters as quickly as a single Coach wash!! The best thing for you, is to run at least one…if not two pre-filters before the DI tank. Also don’t forget to use too-quality shampoo, such as Adam’s (who’s from Arizona, so he knows!).
Sitting on the stool made me laugh. 🤣🤣
I aim to please! 😁
Thanks for another informative video on a great topic. Quick question on the quick connects. How long do the gaskets last? Are they easy to replace?
You’re welcome. The “gaskets” are common washers and as easy as a garden hose to replace. How “long” they will last will vary greatly by the environmental effects, along with the mechanical abuse such as extreme tightening. I’ve had most of mine for years.
@@RVSquaredSteve Thank you! Based on you, I will finally give them a shot.
How many gallons do you think you're getting at 0ppm?
Man, that’s the $64k question Steven! I can’t even begin to guess. The only real way to know, would be to place a meter on the tank. But, that number will vary SOO much, based on what your water source is. Therefore, any number could be misleading.
they sell funnels specifically for refilling di resin
You’re absolutely right, and it makes refilling SO much easier! I’ve been using one ever since the video was made; forgot to add the link to the Description. Thank you for the reminder.
amzn.to/3OKUmRR
they make a special funnel for that
They sure do! Thanks.
Why don't you DI your drinking water for your coach plumbing as well? Since the DI system can't support high flow why not limit your flow with a adjustable water regulator and a simple sprayer instead of a low pressure spray rig that really isn't effective? Love your channel and your delivery but I am trying to make sure I understand the gotchas before investing.
Thanks for watching, Danny. Good question about DI, but let me help you understand a bit more.
RO is usually the preferred choice for “drinking water” but those systems must continually bleed water down the drain, so that’s a no-go for RVs. Those systems generate water VERY slowly. Filters are extremely expensive; with a home system running up to $400 annually.
DI filtering’s main advantage is spot-free rinsing; through the removal of total dissolve solids. They are used primarily for automotive (etc.) washing. Flow isn’t necessarily an issue. In fact, the commercial pressure washers on a Newell work just fine! But...the filters are short-lived, depending on the water source. For example, ONE coach wash in Arizona will trash a $150 set of filters, or resin. Wasting that system for drinking purposes isn’t beneficial since you’re still not filtering the impurities my 3-stage does.
Soft Water is a different process and will lower the hardness; generally for “household” purposes, and NOT drinking water, per se. These help with calcification as well as giving a better feel for showers as well as making soap more efficient.
So…she standard for drinking water is “filtration” and, with systems like I’ve designed, impurities, chemicals, and microbes are removed whereas the above systems do not.
I trust this clears things up for you.
Nice shirt!
Isn't it cool, Ryan...funny thing how popular that shirt is!
I received a bag of their resin and it’s black and not golden brown. I feel like it was money thrown away.
Haven’t heard of black resin. But, I sure hope you reach out to them; I’m sure they’ll take care of you. No reason to feel you’ve wasted your money. Be sure to circle back and let us know what they say!