Anet A8 Marlin Firmware
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 พ.ค. 2024
- This video is all about installing the popular open-source Marlin firmware on the Anet A8 3d-printer!
The process works with Marlin 2.0 as well! The example configurations have moved: github.com/MarlinFirmware/Con...
If you prefer using PlatformIO instead of the Arduino IDE, check out the following video: • Installing Marlin 2.0 ...
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#3dprinting #marlin #upgrade
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Some links I promised to put here:
- Offset Compensation Tutorial: • G-Code Basics
- Arduino IDE: www.arduino.cc/
- Marlin Project marlinfw.org/
- Marlin Firmware Github: github.com/MarlinFirmware/Mar...
- Anet Board Definitions: github.com/SkyNet3D/anet-board
- "3 line Find-Center G-Code": pastebin.com/mTPyRnfn
EDIT:
To get the custom machine name displayed, you can set it in the configuration.h file instead of going all the way to the version file. Just search for and uncomment the following line and set a better name:
//#define CUSTOM_MACHINE_NAME "3D Printer"
EDIT 2: Spelling mistakes in this description and full English captions!
EDIT 3: Marlin 2.0 can be installed the same way. The example configurations moved: github.com/MarlinFirmware/Con...
If you have any questions, issues, or feedback, let me know down below! Enjoy the video ;-)
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3d-Printer: Anet A8
Get it on Gearbest: www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-...
Upgrades: www.thingiverse.com/Caverntwo...
Camera: OnePlus 5
Microphone: the t.bone SC450
Edited with kdenlive for Windows - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
The methods shown in this video still work with the latest Marlin 2.0 release. The example configurations have moved to github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations
I prefer to use PlatformIO instead of the Arduino IDE nowadays, check out my new video: th-cam.com/video/EQoae6oXszE/w-d-xo.html
Please let me know if you run into any issues, I try to come back to you as soon as possible!
2 years later this video was still the only one that could teach a noob like me how to do this. thank you so much, dude!
Hi, I'm glad that you liked this video. I can't believe that it's been already two years...
Thanks, for the concise, no waffle and easy to follow instructions. Managed to install Marlin on my A6.
Nice to hear that. Have fun with the new software ;-)
Probably one of the best mods for an A8, nicely done.
Thank you. Indeed, it is. I've wanted to do a software update for a long time now, but wanted to go with the "real" Marlin instead of SkyNet ;-)
Hey, I just did this on my ANET E10, I had to change a lot of other stuff to get marlin configured (endstop and motor inverting, etc.), but it still worked great. Thanks again for this.
Yeah, that's typical. I was just lucky that there was a working example configuration for the A8^^ Nice to know that it worked.
Simplest video of how to flash Marlin to an A8 - brilliant - many thanks!
Thank you very much for your positive feedback ;-)
Perfect instructions. Now running 1.1.8 on Anet a8. Thanks!
Thank you for taking the time to put this together, Worked perfectly. I would note that having Cura/S3D open while trying to update through Arduino will cause it to fail. Best to have them closed while doing any updates/maintenance.
Thanks a lot for your feedback!
You are right, I should have mentioned and paid more attention to it, but it luckily didn't cause any problems for me as Cura wasn't monitoring the printer as I normally don't print via USB. It was "just open doin' nothin'" in my case ;-)
The useful info per minute is incredible.
Thank you for your great feedback!
thank you! I looked at many other 'tutorials' before finding this one, this one classifies as tutorial, the others are 'look i got marlin or skynet or whatever'
Finally, this video showed me what i wanted to know!
Hi, thank you for your nice feedback ;-) xD!
I am happy that I could help you!
Lol, i just looked at your channel... I think i found a new channel to subscribe to xD
This, for me as a newbie, is very interesting!
Nice to hear! As I started 3d-printing this year, I'm happy that I can share some of my experience.
thank you for your video, I had spent a long time on the Anet A8 still could get it to work, your video keep me going to troubleshoot :)
Hi, thanks for your feedback, I'm glad that my video was helpful for you!
Amazing video, I was working so hard to figure out how to install firmware, then found out marlin wasn't supported, but that was old and this is new and I should use repetier and use skynet and flash the bootloader with a pi zero. So glad this was so easy, thank you.
Thank you very much for your comment! Indeed, that was the reason for me to make this video, as most other tutorials told you to flash the bootloader (what I tried to avoid), install SkyNet (which isn't bad) or something else. To be honest, the installation of Marlin was, thanks to the example configuration, extremely easy! I hope you like your new Marlin setup!
It's different than the original "Omni" software. Warming up the bed right now just to do a test print.
Superb explanation and instruction. I came to this because my attempts with VS Code and PlatformIO have failed (Marlin 2.0 builds fail). I will check your video on those, but this one, with Arduino IDE may be all I need.
Awesome, glad you like it. If you have a 8-bit controller like the MKS Base Gen L or an Arduino Mega with RAMPS board, this method works nicely! For 32 bit controllers you need PlatformIO.
Thanks for the great video!. Flashed mine to 1.1.5 with no problems. Using Anet 3D v1_5 board. Up and running
Thank you for your great feedback. I was astonished by how easy it actually is as well.
How did you manage to do it? I've same version of the board, but I get these errors:
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 1 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x49
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 2 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x6e
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 3 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x66
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 4 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x6f
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 5 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x3a
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 6 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x45
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 7 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x78
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 8 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x74
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 9 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x65
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 10 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x72
Try unplugging/replugging the USB connection and restart. It helped in my case.
Not helped for me. Could it be because of baud rate?
for the uploading process? Try setting it to the highest (worked for me), but I cannot guarantee that it works for you too.
Thanks man with your help i made it
maybe you can add to the end
that its also important to klick on the check/compile tab to finish it
Good Tutorial :)
Thanks for watching and I'm happy that it worked for you!
Can you tell me what you mean with check/compile?
If you click upload, it normally compiles the code first as well.
Excellent tutorial and better customer service than most companies.
How do you mean? Did you define the correct mainboard? Please recheck the pin configuration (in pins_Anet10.h). It should work as expected.
No, the Marlin 1.1x files flat-out do not contain the board_anet_10 and I can't for the life of me figure how to get a file that does.
So you want to choose the Anet board to upload the firmware in Arduino IDE? You need to add the board definitions by SkyNet3D into the Arduino hardware folder. I showed how to do this in the video!
BTW. "BOARD_ANET_10" is defined in line 135 of the "boards.h" file in the latest Marlin 1.1.x branch: github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/boards.h
Same goes for the "pins_ANET_10.h" file, found right here: github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/pins_ANET_10.h
You should be able to choose the Anet board as your motherboard with "#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_ANET_10" (see Anet A8 example config).
Furthermore, just copy the "Configuration.h" and "Configuration_adv.h" files from the Anet A8 example folder into the main directory, overwriting the original ones, just like I showed in the video. The pin configuration in the "pins_Anet_10.h" file didn't change. So if you get an error, let me know what it says.
You rock! Thank you so much for the quick responses. I'm not actually sure what I did wrong 100% but after nearly 5 hours of fucking with this this I don't care. I'll edit my original comment accordingly as it seems to have rightly been my fault, which makes sense considering the complete lack of information regarding my problem online.
this was super clear and super helpful, thank you so much!
Thanks a lot for your feedback!
I'm glad that you liked it and that I could be helpful.
Thank you, great turorial. It worked flawlessly.
Nice to hear that it worked that easily for you. Happy printing!
It's a great way. Thank you. I solved my problem this way. Have a nice day.
Nice to hear that it worked for you. Happy printing!
great video! nice and short, now I know how to flash the board!
Thank you very much for your great feedback!
Thank you for doing this in English. Your's may be a little "inelegant", but it's so much easier for us!
I'll try to keep my videos in English as I don't really like the style and way to pronounce technology words in my native one ;-)
Nice video! Did you find after flashing Marlin that selecting "Auto Home" in LCD would set the extruder carriage and heat bed right against the limit switches, instead of a few cm's away, as the stock Omni firmware did? If so, can you suggest how to adjust the auto home so that the carriage and heat bed are not pressing against the limit switches?
Well, that's what Auto-Home should do, it moves to (0,0,0). The offset from the Anet firmware was annoying in my case, as the nozzle crashed against the bed if it was too high...
It is surely possible to add a move command after the Auto-Home, but I haven't done it yet.
FINALLY! A tutorial that just explains this and works.
Hi, thanks for your comment!
I'm glad that you liked it and that it worked for you! I plan to release more videos like this I'm the future.
Caverntwo Just a note, you should list that it can NOT be the normal arduino software, it has to be part of the beta, or the one you used such as 1.8.5. The current default Arduino download is 1.8.10 which does NOT worth for this.
Really? I used the latest one (1.8.10 for Linux) last week for configuring Marlin on my FLSUN Cube.
What exactly didn't work for you with this version?
Caverntwo On Windows 10 it fails to compile for some reason. I’ll try it again on my Linux box when I get a moment, I’ve tried it on 3 different computers. I don’t know why, but once I changed to 1.8.5 it worked immediately. I’m very familiar with Arduino and also 3D printing and this was the the weirdest software hitch I’ve found.
Thanks for letting me know, maybe I'll give it a try as well. Now I just need to get your reply to the top!
Somehow...
The contrast on your display at the beginning is really good. Did you adjust something or is display quality adjustable at all?
I didn't touch it. Most LCD screens have a potentiometer to adjust the contrast, and I don't really know whether the A8 default LCD has one atm (and I can't look up that easily without removing the back-cover). The Anet LCD12864 has one, that's something I know for sure.
In my case I had to install the CH340G driver to get Arduino to recognize my A8. Although you can use a preconfigured version of the configuration.h/configuration_adv.h, which can be found in the example_configurations folder. But anyway, great video and happy printing :)
Well, Windows is sometimes strange with the automatic installation of drivers. I'll put a link to the drivers in the description later. I chose to go with the preconfigured versions as it is the least work to do, and otherwise the video would have been a little bit longer. I'm glad you liked this video. Thank you very much ;-)
I have a hearing problem...is their a written form for this....a lot of people link to this....I would like to follow it.
I have the written form on the PC. I'll upload it to the TH-cam Captions once I get home from work.
Very helpful thank you !
Thanks a lot!
very nice video! i have a question though. i got the "2017" anet a8 and the board its Anet 3D V 1_5 will that matter with the board definitions that says "1.0"? or can i just go ahead with the update. and how do i back up the original firmware in case i do something wrong? thank you for your time
Hi, thanks a lot!
This is a very good question though, as I don't really know the differences between the versions of the board.
Compare them with the ones around (I have the 1.2 as far as I know), I don't really think that there are many differences.
A software upgrade is always somewhat risky, as the outcomes can be unexpected if something goes wrong.
There are some links to some original firmware available in the depths of the internet, however, I haven't used any of those and have therefore no experience with them...
If you should be unlucky to destroy your board, get a replacement Arduino Mega + Ramps 1.4 + stepper drivers for as low as $15 (video coming soon, btw), on which you can use Marlin without problems.
TLDR: Try it out, if you want. If you should destroy something, there are alternatives for cheap available.
Hope this helped and if you have any more questions, feel free to ask.
thanks for the reply, ill consider the ramps upgrade on a later date, i don't want to rush into things i don't understand yet. ill learn as much as i can with the stock board then move on to some thing else. will be looking out for the ramps video
Ok, that's understandable. If everything runs fine (no broken parts which I need to replace), I hope to get the Ramps video out in the next two weeks.
Especially 3D printing with DIY printers has a very steep learning curve; it just takes some time ;-)
Hey, no problems with the 1.5 board, thanks for taking the time to make a tutorial! there's Marlin 1.1.6 now, do i do the same procedure if i want to update to that? i read somewhere that be careful with updating to a new release, something about version mismatch
Thank you very much ;-)
Nice to hear that it worked for you! Basically, it should be the same procedure, if you do the same I did in this video now, you are already using a newer version.
my stock firmware on Anet A8 v1.0 board works fine. I don't care about auto leveling, what other purpose does the upgrade offer? Will my prints be better?
The main purpose for me was to be able to edit the firmware code and to get rid of Z-leveling problems. And Marlin is truly open-source. I've also never used any auto-leveling so far, but some useful features like a filament run-out sensor can't be added to the board without upgrading the firmware (I did a separate video about adding one). Another important point is safety, as software features like thermal runaway protection (prevents a fire if the extruder thermistor falls out) are disabled. Well, it's your decision. If your software works fine and you don't care about new and useful features as well as extra safety, then you can still use your stock firmware.
I put on marlin 1.1.8 and now it starts normal but the menu doesn't work. when I select something it just reverts back to the home screen. I've tried the older version but still have the same issue. any advice?
The middle button is now used to enter stuff in the menu (like with the rotary knob). Try it out.
I was watching this video and had the same issue. Thank you so much.
Why are you downloading a skynet file if you are trying to download marlin? Only part I am lost on haha. I am going to be doing the upgrade soon
I downloaded that files because the SkyNet3D team managed to create a working interface to the proprietary Anet board. The interface is necessary to get any software installed on that board.
And as the SkyNet3D firmware is officially outdated now (it was an adaption of the original Marlin anyways), I went with the current software.
Hello! I've tried compile Marlin 1.1.x and 1.1.x-bugfix by Arduino 1.8.10 and 1.9.Beta (And 1.6) but it was unsuccessful. first time I had error about library U8glib. After adding this lib I had a tons errors about TIMERs. And I don't know how to fix it. Could You tried upgrade firmware to 1.1.x version? Did you have the same errors? Or do You know how to fix them?
I'm using the 1.1.9 release on one of my machines and it worked just fine.
Could you try reinstalling Arduino IDE and try the same steps again with the 1.1.9 release: github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/archive/1.1.9.zip
Let me know if that helped.
I've been able to upload the Firmware however all I get on the display is 2 rows of 20 white squares on a blue background. I can access the printer with octoprint. Any ideas on how to get the display to work? I have also tried to go in and enable the different LCD types ULTRA_LCD.
It depends on what LCD you use. If you're still running the default 5-button LCD, you need to make sure that the "ZONESTAR_LCD" or similar is enabled. Also make sure that no more than one LCD is uncommented at once. Normally it should work then. Keep me updated!
That worked!!!! Thanks for your help. I find your videos of great value!
Nice that it worked out for you and thanks a lot for your feedback ;-)
will simplify 3d works after the firmware is flashed, i know it didnt work with skynet firmware,
It normally should. I don't know the situation with SkyNet3D and neither do I use Simplify3D, but you can probably set the g-code flavor.
Thanks for the reply,
I flashed the board with skynet a while ago, i wasn't able to print directly from PC using simplify 3d, only cura,i like using simplify 3d since it has way more options to maximize the print quality .so i had to restore the board back to the stock firmware, im going to try this method hopefully it works,
Thanks Mate
Well, alternatively you could just save the g-code of Simplify3D to a file and print it using some other host software or offline using an SD card. You'd still get the same good results, as the printer can just follow the instructions of the g-code. There's no "magic" here (yet).
As I said before, I cannot guarantee you that it works with Simplify3D as I do not use it (and don't have a license). However, you might want to check out some other USB printing host software, as the print quality stays the same.
So the 3 line code should be written in cura at the start gcode? if yes, under which line we should write it? once and thats it, you start printing no need to worry about anything anymore?
as well after changing the values in arduino for the X_MIN_POS -33 and Y_MIN_POS -10 to X_MIN_POS -13 and Y_MIN_POS -6 the extruder is still outside of the bed on the front left side did not move to the center so what is the solution for that ?
The 3 line g-code is just a test g-code to "print", resulting the nozzle to move into the center where you can measure the offset to compensate it afterwards. Check out my g-code video for more information. You can compensate the offset on the firmware as I did with adapting the min positions, or in your slicer software using G92 commands. Please note that your A8's offsets are likely different to mine, as they rely on the physical positions of the endstops.
G-CODE Video: th-cam.com/video/SQ5ZOtb3Cjo/w-d-xo.html
thanks for your reply, i wrote the code on atom and tested on my printer its almost in the center however the nozzle is perfectly leveled on the bed not like your case it was 18mm.
So in this case what do i do? on my firmware marlin x is -13 and y is -6 so do i need to change anything? what about cura should i still write the 3 lines code? thank you very much your videos are great
If your nozzle arrives at the x,y center after "printing" this 3-line g-code, then you're fine and your printer is calibrated. Cura doesn't need this 3 line code, it would even lead to bad. The original G92 code line I deleted in this video did basically the same as changing the minimum positions. Thank you very much for your great feedback. Happy printing!
i followed your steps in the G-code basics video now when i want to print the nozzle is in the center but i mean what is the next step, now if i start printing the printer will not go to the center. i should write that code which i wrote on atom on cura so that it always go to the center? and another thing yesterday i tried printing after 5 hours of printing the nozzle decided to move to a new location and continue the print. Sorry im new to printing and i cant figure it out and you seem to really know what your doing
Wow a fantastic video. I am looking to purchase this printer. I notice this is the dual extruder which is what i want to purchase as I will want to use hips filament simultaneously. Are there any types of filament that you reccoment. Both flexable and hips. IE is cheap filament not worth my time?
Thanks. The printer has only one extruder by default, and the addition of a second one requires the mainboard to be changed (th-cam.com/video/g_AA72g_uXg/w-d-xo.html), I make a video about that soon. For now, I've only used PETG and PLA, nothing else. But once I get Dual Extrusion setup, I'll give HIPS a try! Stay tuned!
This is fantastic. I have already found a couple prebuilt with a 10hr test run on amazon. These are dual extruders with heatbeds that can only reach 240c, so I may want to upgrade the bed later in order to use other types of filament like PC. Would this cause any issues with the main board. I believe it to be a mega2560?
If you say that it has already performed some tests and it works fine, then you're good to go. The Anet mainboard, however, cannot run two extruders as it has no physical connections for them. You could try to install Marlin as well, however, you might need to adapt some more things than shown in this video. For the heated bed I recommend to install some sort of insulation, then you can drive up the temperature quite a bit, like I've done on my Anet A8 (th-cam.com/video/wAWZ2x5dJ4s/w-d-xo.html).
When trying to upload, I got this-
#error "Oop's! Make sure you have the 'Arduino Mega' selected from the tools->Boards menu. What does this mean?
Did you add the Anet board (if you want to run Marlin there) installed and selected I'm the board list? You also need to choose the correct one in the configuration file (you don't need to do it if you use the pre-configured files like I did in the video).
Caverntwo I went to tools, and chose Anet V1.0. Like in your video
Do you also use the pre-configured configuration files?
Caverntwo from example configs, then Anet, then A8. Copied and pasted these in folder containing hardware folder and arduino app.
No, you need to install the Anet board definitions into the Documents/Arduino/hardware folder. The example configs overwrite the "configuration.h" and "configuration_avr.h" files.
great video, worked perfect but now printer center is off. I changed the config.h file to the exactly as you did. -13 and -6. not sure how to fix this.
Hi, thanks for your feedback!
The center correction values worked for my setup. However, this is very likely different for everyone, because of variable end-stop locations and other factors.
I'd suggest you to either play around with the values and watch my GCODE video, where I showed how to measure the offset values: th-cam.com/video/SQ5ZOtb3Cjo/w-d-xo.html
Just don't forget that you can set the offset values directly in the configuration file (you might have to negate them, depending on from which side you measure), so you don't need to add the G92 in the GCODE.
Let me know if that works for you!
I'm happy to help ;-)
Im looking to upgrade my anet to current marlin firmware. I have skynet 2.3.2 installed with a a6 screen and probe sensor. does marlin support the a6 screen? Also anyway I could port my config h settings over to the new config.h on marlin?
Yeah, the A6 LCD is supported, you just need to define it correctly in the LCD section. For the config.h, it's not that easy as there have been probably a lot of changes, so you basically need to copy over each section individually (open both documents and copy the values to the new one).
Gotcha thank you! Lastly what major benefits are there switching to marlin?
Well, there might not be that many new features for your printer when you are already running SkyNet3D, but you have the latest software that will get future updates for both safety and reliability. I don't know what you SkyNet3D version can or can't do, but it's always good switching back to the original once it supports your machine.
Very true! I am currently going through the config files now to match settings. Hope everything works out! Thanks a lot for your support!
Nice ;-)
I DID EXACTLY WHAT HE SAID BUT WHEN I TRY TO ENTER THE MENU SUB HEADS, IT JUST GOES BACK GO THE INFO SCREEN. WHY?
I didn't mention it in this video, but the controls are a bit different. You need to hit the center button to enter a sub menu.
if i have another mainboard,what should i do to install this? ive changed it to an MK base v1.2, awesome video!
You need to set the MOTHERBOARD in the Configuration.h file to the correct one. All boards can be found in the boards.h file. For an MKS Base, try "BOARD_MKS_BASE". I adapted exactly this setting but for an Arduino Mega with RAMPS combo in my controller upgrade video (th-cam.com/video/g_AA72g_uXg/w-d-xo.html).
Caverntwo YOU ARE AWESOME!
THAT JUST WAS THE SHORTEST REPLY TIME EVER!!!
When I copy the config files to the folder and open Marlin, it does not show the Anet as an available board. Do you know what else I could try?
You need to move the "hardware" folder of the Anet board definitions by SkyNet3D into "Documents\Arduino" first (1:19).
I too am having this problem. I copied the files over, but they are still not showing up. I also created a sub folder entitled hardware too and placed a copy in there in documents, but still nothing shows up for the board option
Try making it exactly like I did in the video with the board definitions. You can install boards directly into the Arduino IDE installation folder in the hardware subfolder as well, although the option in documents is to prefer.
After this update the unit tries to home in the corner where no bed is. X and Y is fine but Z motors bottom out. How do you tell the printer to home Z in the center of bed not where it homed X and Y.
Why do you want it to home in the center of the bed? Do you use some auto-leveling sensor? If you use one, Marlin offers a lot of customizable settings for easing the homing process with a said sensor. See "Z Probe Options" in the Configuration.h file. Please do more research on how to set it up correctly! I can't really help you here as I have never used any sensor so far.
yes i recently installed an auto leveler. Great thanks this is a start. I had no idea what to look for :(.
Keep me updated ;-)
hey, please help me. I get this message after uploading marlin firmware "avrdude: stk500v2_getsync(): timeout communicating with programmer" what should i do?
Retry, unplug/replug the controller from the PC, restart the Arduino IDE. Also, make sure that the USB port works or try another one. That issue sometimes pops up in my case as well, but luckily resolves after two or three trials. Others have sadly not been that successful (see the pinned comment-thread).
I've recieved error,
"exit status 1 pasting "/* SPI Master Out Slave In pin*/" and "_DDR" does not give a valid preprocessing token"
when trying to upload to the Anet A8. Help!
Hi,
From the information given I do not know what the actual problem is, but as it said "/* ... */", I assume that there's the a comment (the star-slash combination) anywhere in your code where it shouldn't be. Search for the line in the Arduino project, maybe you get some result. If it doesn't work, just restart the while process shown in the video.
Hey! I had the same problem... look here, its a very easy fault.. you only have to put the "//" comments under with enter. forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=542083.0
Thanks! Nice video!
Thank you very much ;-)
what features do you get with Marlin? new features in the menu? I will like to see the printer menu screen and compare my.
Yeah, there are some. My favorite one is the open-source part of the firmware, as you can always adapt and change stuff as you need. You can use the Anet board's free pin(s) to e.g. add a filament run-out sensor (th-cam.com/video/UdETssS-ods/w-d-xo.html) or some extra hardware. Furthermore, some software safety features help you shut off in the event of a critical error, which could lead to a printer fire in the worst case. The menu is of course somehow similar; feel free to check out my newer videos to see the menu in action.
Hi, i saw you have the heating cardtrige a bit out of the block, i would recommend you to put it back in place to get a better heat control.
Also great video, really useful
Thank you for watching my video. Indeed, the heating element is a little bit out of the block, but on both sides as it is too long. I left it in like this since my E3D-V6 upgrade, but there will be a change soon anyways ;-)
Thank you for a great video. Sometimes too fast but it is easy to stop.
However, following your instructions the printer is working and can print using Merlin 1.1.6. That is ok, but unfortunately the display is corrupted and a lot of pixels are randomly enabled during printing. Everything else seems to be ok and I can get the display back again for a short while by entering different menus . Just after few seconds it is corrupted again. Is there anything I can do?
Brg Tomas
Hi, thanks for your comment!
It seems like you use the default Anet Keypad display. There's a problem with this display, as mentioned in the LCD definition of the ANET_KEYPAD_LCD in the Configuration.h file. I had this issue as well, but only 2 times as far as I can remember. As they state that this error has something to do with electrical interference, it can be hard to impossible to fix.
I'm pretty sure that they mean electrical interference on the board, not on the LCD. You could try to organize your cables in a way that the wires don't go over the mainboard but around it, to make sure that the controller receives the least possible amount of electromagnetic influence from high-power cables (like the stepper wires). I suggest printing a case and zip-tying the cables to it.
Currently, I chose to abandon the original keypad LCD, as I went on and changed the mainboard to an Arduino Mega + Ramps setup, where I swapped the LCD to a RapRapDiscount Smart controller because it has an SD slot (and is very cheap).
Make sure to check out the video: th-cam.com/video/g_AA72g_uXg/w-d-xo.html
I'm very sorry that you are in this situation, but if nothing else helps, you might consider an upgrade like this as well.
I hope that helped.
Thank you for the replay. It looks like the display is easy to disturb. However, the original sw works fine, strange! I have however also ordered the components and will make the upgrade.
Nice! If you have further questions, feel free to ask. My real reason for the controller upgrade was the possibility of adding a second extruder.
I am currently running in to the same problem that
miguelsolis966 had. I have followed your video from start to finish multiple times and still no success. It is showing that the issue is in the endstop_interrupts.h file line 161
Hi Raymond, thanks for your comment!
I've also encountered this issue recently on my FLSUN Cube printer.
I still don't know what causes this and didn't want to invest more time, so I just disabled the ENDSTOP_INTERRUPTS_FEATURE in the Configuration.h file.
@@Caverntwo will this cause the endstops to not work? I'm new to dealing with firmware.
Actually not, but it decreases overall performance as the pins are polled all the time. Normally, it shouldn't cause any issue.
Are you sure that your endstop is wired properly and the logic is right?
How can I fix my boot-loader without buying more equipment to do so? I have white square boxes across the display.
I have not done it myself so far, but this might help you: www.instructables.com/id/HOW-TO-FIX-ANET-BRICKED-BOARD-USING-AN-ARDUINO-UNO/
I finally got what looks like a working bootloader using the usual process, but the flashing process failed with the error message (avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 10 of 10: not in sync: resp=0xbe), and I still have the white boxes across the display. So after a week of trying anything and everything, I have come to the conclusion that my main chip is fried. I guess I could buy a new chip and install it on the board myself and then try everything again. I've been talking with 3D Printer Universe, whom I bought the printer from, to get them to get me a replacement board cuz it's still under the 1 year warranty, but they are jackin' me around. Would never buy anything from them again. Thanks for your help anyways, greatly appreciated.
I also had these getsync() errors with the Anet board once in a while, but usually after the 3rd upload trial it worked. As the board is very proprietary anyways and to get dual-extrusion working, I upgraded to an Arduino Mega + Ramps 1.4 setup ( th-cam.com/video/g_AA72g_uXg/w-d-xo.html ). I really hope that you can get it to work, else consider doing an upgrade similar to the one I did, you'll really enjoy having a lot of extra pins free.
Hay hi... I am getting error that says :- your file name or extension is too long. Error compiling for the board Anet V1.0.
Hi,
After looking up Google I suppose the file path to some dependency, your project or the compiler is over the max length of Windows (around 250 chars, I guess).
forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=419584.0
Can you turn on Verbose Logging for the compilation (File -> Preferences)? That would give us more clues.
Hay thanks for replying..... And it worked
Your video is the only one video that helped. Thanks for the video
Thanks for the feedback!
I'm glad that it worked out for you!
I followed your steps and ended up with a "Error compiling" error. What did I do wrong?
You probably have an error in the code as it can't compile. Try finding more information in the error log (like line number and description) and try to fix it.
I tried the update and got the following error
Sketch uses 116406 bytes (91%) of program storage space. Maximum is 126976 bytes.
Global variables use 4368 bytes of dynamic memory.
avrdude: ser_open(): can't set com-state for "\\.\COM3"
An error occurred while uploading the sketch
Any Ideas?
The IDE couldn't open the COM3 port to upload. Make sure that it is correct (look it up in Windows Device Manager) and just try again. This error sometimes occurs in my case as well...
Turns out it was related to my computer. I use a mac pro running Windows and while the com ports looked fine I kept getting the error. I then loaded everything on my surface and tried again and from the surface it uploaded fine. Thank you!
Nice to hear that it worked out for you. Have fun with your new Marlin installation!
Hi Caverntwo, very nice and helpfull video, how ever I am unable to get Marlin flashed to My A8 v1.0 board. There is a problem with the CH340g driver. I am running Windows 7 64bit and every time I try to install the CCh340 driver a window pops up saying "The drive has been successfully Pre-installed in advance!" and in the device manager it shows up with the yellow exclamation mark! I have seen all the related with this issue videos and have tried all the methods I could find to no avail! I even partitioned my hard drive and installed a seccond version of Windows 7 ultimate but 32bit with no success! This is realy frustrating! Please help me if you can!
That's very annoying. You have already tried many things. If you try to upload the firmware to the board, does it even start or does it error right away?
You could also try installing Linux and trying it from there, but I'm not a Linux expert either.
I am wondering installing Marlin and 3d touch, anybody already did that? The results are better?
Thank you
I haven't used any auto-leveling sensor/probe yet, so I cannot share any experience. However, there might be some better support for these sensors/probes, so give it a try ;-)
Maybe you already found a solution for the 3D touch, but I found this video explaining it all.
th-cam.com/video/6aofhlAooUE/w-d-xo.html
thank you so much!!!
You are welcome ;-)
The Anet A8 Printer is officially supported by Marlin right now. Just sayin... You don't need the Arduino Software anymore. The only things you'll need are the Drivers for the Board, Python 2.7 and PlatformIO installed on your PC. Then you run the Marlin software and drag n drop the example configuration files from the Marlin folder for your printer into the window of the opened Marlin software. Compile, flash and you're done! Easy as that! Thank me later... :D
Well... It doesn't really matter whether you use the Arduino IDE to compile and upload or PlatformIO. I'm pretty sure that there are a lot of other (and probably far more complex) working solutions as well, but the purpose of this (already a few months old) video was to show one of the easiest ways. Of course, my own experience with the Arduino IDE from high school times might have influenced this choice as well ;-)
Caverntwo No problem. I only wanted to mention this method for those who are struggling with flashing the firmware.
Yeah, that could be a possibility to outrun the incompetence of the Arduino Uploader.
I'm not the guy saying that "only this solution works", but I'm more likely to stick to a solution that worked for me and where I already have some experience. Therefore I'm happy that you pointed another possible solution out. It could be worth a trial for some.
Just out of interest, did you already try it out?
Yeah i wouldn't say either that mine is the only working solution but it was the one which worked for me at the first try. Maybe it is a bit more simple once everyrhing is installed in my oppinion. I had Omni installed before on my A8 and have not tried out the Arduino method. You would use the Arduino software for flashing and compiling but i prefered to do that with the Marlin software.
Let's say both solutions work, although yours might be a bit easier to use^^. I am going to pin your initial comment so that others can see it and try it out. Thanks again for sharing!
How could this be applied to Anet A8 Plus ? With V1.7 physical board. Any of instructions I have found from www does not do the job ???
Anet A8 firmware update, how to do it with ANET3D V1.7 mainboard ??? (Anet A8 Plus)
Hi Jesse,
I don't have a 1.7 board so I cannot confirm whether it works or not. But according to the following thread, it should be possible pretty much like shown in my video, just go with the latest Marlin 1.1.x version:
www.thingiverse.com/groups/anet-a8-prusa-i3/forums/general/topic:38397
However, be aware that you do it on your own risk!
If you cannot upload your firmware, there might not be any bootloader installed. In this case, I've created a separate video about that topic, which you could follow for reference. But let me know, I might have to research a little bit more.
Hope that helps, if not, let me know!
@@Caverntwo Thank You, now I am trying through VSCode... maybe I could try another board..?
th-cam.com/video/KZZXaDGCWpo/w-d-xo.html
He's basically showing the same process, but uses PlatformIO instead of Arduino. I also need to check it out once I have some time, as Arduino is sometimes funny...
Just make sure to compile for the correct board.
There might be new board definitions available, please check yourself (I cannot until tomorrow evening). These are important as the Anet controller is proprietary, so everything is different compared to other boards.
In the absolute worst case when you destroyed your current board, you could buy a new board for like $30.
How can I do this?... when select go home, go to the center of the bed so I can use the autolevel funcion with the level sensor
You can set the point (X/Y) where to perform the Z leveling. The option is called Z_SAFE_HOMING and it makes sure that Z is only homed after X and Y are, while also moving to a safe place (a place where the Z-Probe surely is on the bed). By default it's in the center.
Caverntwo thank You :D
But it also work with the auto level function? That one that create a grid of 3x3 ?
Yeah, it uses the G29 command rather than the normal G28 (home all). It is recommended to use Z_SAFE_HOMING for the leveling process.
It can be enabled in the configuration.h file at @section calibrate. The description is very good so you can find out what it does easily.
Caverntwo thanks a lot :D I'm going to try it thanks :D
Just another... where do I configure the command G29 ? For example in cura, or in the LCD ?
ok so im stuck on step 3 downloding the skynet3d anet board zip.. i search site it shows codes but nowhere to download..
Follow the correct link in the description. If the site looks different, try finding the link to the desktop version.
I get an error. It says :
Sketch uses 102860 bytes (81%) of program storage space. Maximum is 126976 bytes.
Global variables use 4161 bytes of dynamic memory.
avrdude: ser_open(): can't set com-state for "\\.\COM4"
An error occurred while uploading the sketch
That's a rather typical error. There could be many reasons, but the ones that helped in my case were:
- check whether COM4 is correct
- Make sure to try it multiple times. I click on upload and then plug the board in. Just try it multiple times and hopefully it works. If it doesn't, try to upload it with another software (see pinned comment). I hope that it works for you.
What if you are using a mac? Is it the exact same process?
It should be, but I can't tell you how to find out where the controller is connected to.
In the IDE I got the Error:
Arduino: 1.6.9 (Windows 10), Board: "Anet V1.0"
cc1.exe: error: -fno-fat-lto-objects are supported only with linker plugin.
exit status 1
Can someone help me ?
Update your Arduino IDE to the current version (1.8.5), which should fix this error: www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software
Caverntwo jep thank you:)
i did as u said and opening marlin with the anet board does not work !!! why? when i want to manage the libraries : invalid library
Thanks for your comment. Do you use the latest Arduino IDE and did you install the board definitions correctly? Take care about the folders as well.
i did not have in documents any arduino or libraries folder , i opened marlin.ino and then closed , i watched the documents folder and all was there , i put the anet folder also on the adrduino install were i found the libraries
What do u sugest to do
Thank u for the quick answer
Did you make sure that you have the "libraries" folder inside the "Documents/Arduino" folder? Additionally, you could try putting the board definitions into your Arduino install folder (/libraries I believe).
Try not to have another "library" folder inside "Documents/Arduino/library" as it would cause an invalid library error
i did that and i put the libraries also on the documents/arduino/libraries and it's saying invalid library found at C:\Users\SEVEN\Documents\Arduino\libraries\hardware:
Do you know how to Setup an autobedleveling Sensor?
You need to tell Marlin which sensor you have and then properly configure the probe offsets. I haven't tried auto-leveling yet so I can not share my experience.
Caverntwo Ok thank you.
I have problém with set ant centre in marlin firmware verision 2
Hi Lukáš, thanks for your comment!
You have basically three methods:
1. Move endstop, if possible.
2. Set movement bounds in Marlin:
marlinfw.org/docs/configuration/configuration.html
Scroll down to "Movement Bounds", where you can set the X_MIN_POS and Y_MIN_POS values to fix any offset of the endstop. I think I showed that in this video. I have not yet set up Marlin 2 on any of my machines, so I'm not 100% sure if it still works as I imagine it.
3. Set said offsets in your slicer software with the help of a G92 command. This has to be added to the start G-Code script.
See my old video for advice, as well as some basics: th-cam.com/video/SQ5ZOtb3Cjo/w-d-xo.html
I hope that I could help you. If not, let me know!
I don´t know what I did wrong but I have right now the same thing as in the minute 2:35 and I don´t know how to pass that phase.I own an Anet A8 if that is helpful
So you mean that the firmware doesn't successful upload?
If so, try again and take a look for errors.
What kind of errors ? I´m start learning to program things so I don´t have any idea about this xD
The firmware changed the name of my printer so I think that is a sing of it worked but the lcd screen keeps the same as I said before
ah, that's simple: In the configuration.h file there's a CUSTOM_PRINTER_NAME that you just need to uncomment.
Caverntwo ok, I will do a research tomorrow and I'll tell you what it's happening to my printer
I cant get the firmware to install. Every time I try I get this error message. avrdude: ser_open(): can't set com-state for "\\.\COM5" Dose anyone know why?
Yeah, errors in the Arduino IDE can sometimes be tricky to interpret. It seems like the COM port has nothing connected to or is not usable.
I'd suggest to do:
1. Installing the drivers for the board manually
2. Check the COM interface where you have your printer connected to via the Windows Device Manager (if you are on Windows, of course)
3. Choose that exact COM interface in the Arduino IDE
If that still throws this error, try connecting the printer to another USB port on your PC (it'll probably get a new COM port, so make sure to look for that as well).
Altight I got it to flash to the board. I had to uninstall the COM port data and everything with it than restart my pc. After that I plugged it in and set the COM port and it flashed! Thanks for the help!
Nice to hear that it worked! Happy printing with your newly flashed firmware ;-)
I keep receiving the error "avrdude: ser_open(): can't open device "\\.\COM9": Access is denied." I've never seen this error code before working with Arduino. Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
turns out my board has a rip-off FTDI chip so my Arduino IDE doesn't recognize it. Currently trying to find drivers that work, but Windows 10 isn't allowing me to install.
You have no access to that COM port! Check in the Windows Device Manager if it's the correct one. If it is, try unplugging/replugging just before the firmware is uploading. It usually takes a few trials. Others have reported that they didn't get it to work with Arduino at all (see pinned comment).
Oh, I didn't see that comment. In that case I can't really help you...
Caverntwo thanks for the reply! I had a similar problem with the drivers for my DJI Naza flight controller because the drivers were unsigned. Windows 10 won't install unsigned drivers without a special boot. I'll try that and if I get it to work I'll reply back so anyone else having the problem knows how to fix it.
That's true. Took me a while to figure this out for a school project too...
can't upload the program to Arduino, why?
Hi, there could be a ton of different reasons why the program doesn't upload. Read a little bit through other comments here, maybe you find the solution.
If not, just give me more details, maybe I can help you.
Mine is saying problem uploading to board ? why can that be. I checked the port and board is set as in the video
Try unplugging and replugging the USB cable, which helped in my case. If it doesn't, try restarting your PC. You could also check whether the communication drivers are correctly installed on the PC and reinstalling them if you find them suspicious. I hope that I could help you.
Great that worked!. Another question is. in this video th-cam.com/video/Wk3qYOB4E9I/w-d-xo.html they are talking about axis steps at 1:03 min. I cant seem to find them in arduino
I just looked up and it can be found in the Configuration.h file at line 527 (in the Marlin version I use in the video). You can enable line numbers in File/Preferences.
FYI: I haven't adapted them on my A8 yet as they seem to be fine my case.
mine has not been doing to great. so i am making the short calibration as the link i send you. i have found it now.. thanks. I dont really understand how you choose the center settings on the machine ?
It's basically very easy: The printer moves to its center at (110/110), but because the endstops are a bit off, there's an offset. In the video I programmed the printer to believe that it is at another position (-xoffset,-yoffset) once it hits the endstops to move to the real center. Just play around with the values, you'll see where an increase/decrease leads you center-wise.
Will this work for the A6?
Yes, but you should take the pre-defined config file of the A6 then. Everything else should be the same.
What's the best version of marlin to use?
The latest stable one that works on the controller.
Well 1.1.8 has a anet configuration.H in the file so I might give that one a try. Thank you for the video and the information keep it up.
I'm pretty sure that all following versions will have the Anet A8 configuration file, as Marlin also tries to keep improving. Thanks for your feedback!
sorry but i've done the copy of the file in the main folder but i don't have anetV1 in tools
Therefore you need to copy the hardware folder of the Anet board definitions into the Documents/Arduino folder. On restart of the Arduino IDE, the board should be available.
Thanks you so much that works ;)
Hey, I was wondering if I could get some help. When I try to upload Marlin I get an error before it completely compiles. In red it says "non-constant condition for static assertion". I don't know about coding or programming so if anyone can help it would be really appreciated.
Hi, thanks for your comment. It's a coding error, so we can find it!
The error means that you try to compare or assign something during compilation time (when you hit verify) that is actually a run-time value (the value gets filled up and exists only when the program is running on the controller).
The error message should give more information like a file and line number, allowing you to easily identify the cause of the problem. If this is not shown, you need to turn the "verbose logging" (or verbose output, I don't know the exact name currently) option on, found in the preferences.
Let me know where the error is, then we can (hopefully) find the cause!
It gave me multiple error messages, so many that i cant post them in this comment, but there is that says.
Multiple libraries were found for "LiquidCrystal.h"
Used: C:\Users\migue\Desktop\3d
exit status 1
i also should say that I don't really know what im doing.
You didn't change anything in this file, right?
What LCD controller did you choose? Some of them require extra libraries that you need to download, but the comments above the line where you choose your controller should give more information.
I didn't change anything in the file. I was under the impression that I just download everything in the tutorial, open up Marlin in arduino, plug in my printer, and upload it.
That's basically how it should work. I can highly recommend copying the configuration files from the example_configurations folder into the main folder, replacing the default ones.
If you have an Anet printer with the Anet controller, you also need to download and install the board definitions, as shown in this video.
Hi! I get this error message when i try to uploade the software... Any tips to how i can fix that? Great video!! :)
cc1.exe: error: -fno-fat-lto-objects are supported only with linker plugin.
exit status 1
Error compiling for board Anet V1.0.
Damn. I don't know either. Do you use the latest version of the Arduino IDE? The only thing I'd do in your situation is to remove all Arduino stuff and reinstall everything. I'm sorry, but this error exceeds my knowledge.
I used 1.6.4 when this happend. It works with the newest! Thanks :)
Nice that you've been able to fix your problem! Happy printing!
Can this be done in Mac OS?
Yes, but I can't help you with finding out the used port.
Hello! Is possible to install this firmware to Anet A2+ 3D Printer?
Yes, should work exactly the same, except that the maximum sizes are different. I also did it!
@@Caverntwo Thanks! I've checked GitHub repo. Now it contain A2+ config files!
Could You explain why You use additional board with MOSFET?
The reason for the MOSFET is to bypass the high current needed for the heated bed from the board itself. This measure increases the life of the board and lowers the risk of fire.
@@Caverntwo Thank You very much! I saw video by Italian guy. He added boards with diodes for step motors. Do You know why they needed?
@@Caverntwo This video th-cam.com/video/7V2kelp1k6c/w-d-xo.html
Hi there nice video but you are speaking too fast and is difficult for a newbie like me to catch every time what you say, where we put the 3 gcode lines to cura or to Arduino?
Hey, thanks for your feedback.
The 3 lines of gcode are saved as a .gcode file and then put onto the SD card of the printer to "print" it. It will home all axes, move up a little bit and then move to the theoretical center of the bed. For more information, feel free to check out this video: th-cam.com/video/SQ5ZOtb3Cjo/w-d-xo.html
It doesn't read the sd card and it writes '''refresh ''' i try a lot of times but the same
When you first insert the SD card, you need to click "Init. SD Card" (right below of the other option)
I do it but it won't read the sd card again, maybe it is more procreate to install the 1.1.4 marlin version because i want to work with auto bed leveling?
Do you still use the default controller? I haven't been using auto-leveling so far, therefore I can't share any experience with it.
FYI - Your Arduino folder does not exist until you open it first and click "save as" - Then it gets created.
Oh, I didn't know that. Thank you for this information!
Here is a challenge: I have no laptop , desktop is 2.5m away from printer , ultratight budget(from my stingyness).
What is the porpose of upgrading the firmware? Can it solve the continue print problem? And does it have any drawback that requires adaptions on(eg home all quirks)
Hey, 100th comment!
About my setup: I have a laptop but didn't use it in this case, as my 2.5m USB cable was just long enough.
Ok, in a nutshell: You want to upgrade the firmware if you want to use some additional features that are not available with the default firmware, e.g. the addition of a filament runout sensor (see my other video). An upgrade could also fix some bugs in the original software, like my most annoying one, namely when I hit Pause, the Y-axis went 1 inch too far and thus not only crashing into the frame but also inducing an offset on continue. Furthermore, you can adapt nearly everything, which could come handy when you want to install upgrades or adapt some settings.
You also make your printer a lot safer, as e.g. Thermal Runaway Protection is now enabled (this feature shuts your printer off if the thermistor of the hotend falls out).
I didn't really encounter drawbacks so far, except that the menu controls are different (middle button to enter/exit/accept instead of right one), but I'm not sure if or where this could be adjusted to fix that.
I don't know what you mean with "continue print problem", but it can't resume a print after power loss (you'd need some extra adaptions and probably hardware for this, which I haven't figured that out so far).
For most prints, it doesn't really matter what firmware you use. The default one did its job well, at least, most of the time. But I went a step forward to unlock the true power of "open source".
Thanks for your reply. What I mean as continue print problem is that : after pausing the print and disabling the steppers to make fixing the hotend easier , it doesn't home again and it starts to have layer shifts(and even crash on itself). I don't know how to fix it nor i have any time as the only time i have is on saturday and sunday.
Edit:my cable is only 1.45 m long :p gotta buy a new one on weekend
I also only have Saturday and Sunday free for working on the printers (that explains the low video frequency).
Well, actually, I don't know about this issue as I've never tried moving the printhead after hitting pause, but I'll give it a try soon.
Show! tanks!!!
Thanks for the comment. I hope that you enjoyed this video ;-)
I cannot open the .ino file and all .h and .ch files are misinterpreted as CH and H files
Edit: I downloaded the zip alduino , maybe that affected the file type . IDK cuz i'm not even good at ICT.
Edit: i just found out how to open it with custom programme
You should be able to open a .ino file correctly by right-clicking and selecting "Open With" and browsing to your arduino.exe in the Arduino installation directory. You can also override use the "Default Apps" settings page for mapping the correct programs to your file extensions.
Yes , just found that
The offset compensation tutorial link brings me to a g-code basics video. Is that the correct link? I thought you had a different video for this process before. Thanks, I appreciate your videos.
Hi Dave,
Thanks for watching and your feedback!
I have shown the offset-compensation process in more detail in my GCode video (the one linked).
You are totally right, I have quickly teased it before in one of my older videos, but as I some of my viewers asked me about how to do it, I decided to do this video explaining all the GCode stuff you'd ever need (for 3d printing).
Caverntwo thanks for the reply. I am looking to correct the center position of the x axis through the controller interface our with octoprint. Didn't you show that method in the older video?
No, that wasn't me. I have an Octoprint video coming, though, stay tuned for that!
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 10 of 10: not in sync: resp=0xd6
help me please :(
Hi,
This error means that the connection to the controller has not been established/synchronized. Unplug and replug the device, it should solve that issue. Also make sure that you have the correct COM port selected. I hope that this helped.
no its not helped.
i opened serial monitor and after compile there was
start
Info:External Reset
Info: 0.000000 0.000000 0.000000 0.000000 0.000000 0.000000 0.000000 0.000000 0.000000
Free RAM:12251
wait
wait....
and my 3D printer was restarted twice. have you some idea what to do?
What does it do now? Did it upload or not? Is the "old" firmware still booting?
yes there are only old firmware
Maybe someone had error when uploading? My board version is 1.5
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 1 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x49
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 2 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x6e
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 3 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x66
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 4 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x6f
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 5 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x3a
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 6 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x45
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 7 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x78
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 8 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x74
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 9 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x65
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 10 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x72
I'm getting this error when I flash
avrdude: stk500_cmd(): programmer is out of sync
Maybe it might sound too easy, but re-check if you have selected correct COM port. You error is a bit different.
Yes It is on the the correct COM port. I checked in device manager.
same here, and now won;t boot.
I accidentally flashed marlin without un-commenting out the 500 commands so i cant change the configuration.h with commands. Is it ok to just change it and then upload it to the printer again?
You can just reflash the firmware as often as you like. To get my Dual-Extrusion working (video to be released this weekend), I flashed the firmware at least 10 times!
I've tried many of these tutorials and none of them have worked :(
What exactly didn't work for you?
@@Caverntwo After watching every single one of these videos, it turns out that I own the 1.5 version, that doesn't have the boot loader, I have a handful of Arduino boards coming, one will be used to start off by burning a bootloader so I can follow the rest of the instructions on getting Marlin on to my Anet
By the way, I've subscribed to your channel because you were the first one out of many that actually attempted to assist me. I know how hard it is to get subscribers, I have my own channel, and you have earned this sub, and thank you.
Oh, I see. Someone else has already mentioned this and I completely forgot.
As you've already stated, you'd need to install the bootloader on the board, and I assume that you know already a lot more about this topic than I do.
You're welcome, thanks for subscribing!
I try to do my best, however, I'm currently very busy and have sadly little time for creating videos. You can expect more regular videos during the Christmas days though.
@@Caverntwo I didn't know this when I watched all these tutorials on TH-cam, I found out afterward, I have an UNO coming (a couple just in case), after you get the bootloader set, you don't have to do it again to install Marlin.
hi its urgent for me, can i discuss with you?
Hi, what do you want to discuss with me?
would have been helpful if at the start you stated it needed to be sent via USB cable... just did all the shit up to 2:15 on my desktop, thinking it'd be flashed via SD card... what a pain... guess I gotta go pull my laptop out.
But at 2:05 I state that you need to connect the printer to the PC using a correct USB cable. Oh no! I expected that you at least watched the video once before doing everything step-by-step... But you only need to install the Arduino IDE and the Anet board definitions on your laptop, as you can just copy over the edited files from your desktop.
Sorry I can't hear the instructions. Speak louder.
Turn up the volume or switch on subtitles.
u need to slow down a tad and speak better english bruh
I have never stated to speak native English as I'm from Austria. If you do not understand some part in this video, feel free to enable closed captions.