Still relevant in 2022. I bought a V1.03 lulzbot mini off ebay and needed to upgrade to a motherboard compatible with LCD interface. The stock motherboard was a mini Rambo 1.1b and I needed a 1.3a. Lulzbot wanted to charge $200, but I could buy the same board from Prusa for $130 (somehow shipping to CA from CZ was less than shipping from ND). The only catch was that I needed to flash brand new firmware. Because this board came with Prusa firmware already installed, Cura alone was not enough to connect to the board and update firmware. Arduino was the only way and this video showed me everything I needed to make it work. Thanks Thomas!!!
Finally got the time to tinker with the printer and your videos help a lot, it is all I need to get started again and it covers everything I need. Really removes a lot of painfull research and testing. Many thanks!
That was a very good and concise explanation of the configuration process. We've got a boatload of changes coming to Marlin 1.1.0 (which will have another so-called "release candidate" out shortly) and it would be great to see an update on configuration and some of the new features when it's released.
Thanks Thomas for this video I really needed it and probably all the others that you mention in here. I am learning more from this channel than I have from everywhere but the Docs! Your the best and really appreciate what you do. When I am able, I will make sure I hit you up with a little green! I finally picked up my first Printer ever because of you and the fact that I have this awesome resource. You are the best on TH-cam! The Duke of 3D.
Just as an FYI to people. Marlin IS available for the Monoprice Mini DELTA machine that I am using. In fact I have Marlin running on it now. The fork is "MARLIN4MPMD". It saved my sanity.
When updating the config for the latest version with entries from the old firmware, how do you account for differences in options? The firmware released with my printer is missing some options that are in the latest version, and vice versa.
Do you have a video on setting up Marlin for a printer not listed and more basic. People who are not trying this for the first time I am sure are clear when you say just change this or add this or go here and get this and add it..... I am new to this and have spent several hours trying different change this and add this or this should be scenarios and have not got it to work yet! Thanks for the videos and I am sure in the future they will make more since.
Dear respected sir, Hope you are in good health with success and happiness. I am really happy for your awsome works. Two days ago, I bought a RUMBA control board for my large scale 3-color 3D printer. But I am facing some problem to install marlin software. What could be the differences if I use RUMBA control board and 3-color extruder? Please sir, reply me.....
Great video :) , it helped me set up most of my self build printer, but i dont know how to set the home position and how to tell the printer where to start printing. at the moment when i home the printer the head just goes to the top corner, it does not know where the bed is or where to start the print or even the bed size. any chance you have a video of how to set that up in marlin? thanks for all your videos...
In start of video you told " i show you world of c++ configuration files that control every thing about your 3D printer." But you did not tell about lcd and sd card configuration. I am new in this field and did not familiar about c++ so please tell me have you any video about lcd and sd card configuration. Any it very help full. Thanks for sharing
*Pls HELP: Want to adjust z home position to -0.1*, *Im not using any probe sensor* i do G28 M211 S0(so i can go below 0) Adjust my z axis(let say I want it to be -0.1, as we know sign should be opposite so +ve 0.1) m428(to save all offsets) m500 m501(shows i have successfully saved it X:0 Y:0 Z:-0.1) *but when I home again I expect it be -0.1mm below the actual position. which it doesn't. The nozzle stays at 0,0,0. But if do M501 it still shows my nozzle position to be at X:0 Y:0 Z:-0.1* *why is the nozzle not going down by -0.1mm even though it has been written on EEPROM*
Hello Tom, Great video, as always! In your previous version of this video guide you mentioned that you prefer not to use PID when you're controlling the heated bed with a solid state relay (for example for powering a silicone heater with mains voltage). Do you still recommend using the bang-bang method in such cases?
Good advice - and always be within 3ft of the power off switch. First machine, Repra i2, crash crash crash crash, and now I have a drone - crash crash crash....
Could you make another videos for Marlin ... That video so fast and I could not understand, was this work with you?! Because this version of marlin does not work I do not know why it doesn't ?!
Hello, I followed everything including the setup video for the Full Graphic Smart Display, but there are some major issues with the SD card. It will only recognize once and then never again. I think this video is a bit outdated.
Hi Tom, could you add the links to the relevant other videos you made about the Marlin firmware in the description please? It take ages to find the time in the video when you mentioned then and provide the link and I can't find all of them in your video list. Cheers, Jeremy
Great video :) Just one question. In you tutorial you installed the latest RC version. Should we really go for the possibly bug-filled release candidates or is it a better idea to opt for the stable version?
Thomas ... nice video ... when you got to the section on Z Probe ... that I was looking for. You said you had another video that covered that section in more detail. I looked, but didn’t seem to locate it. Could you give me the title to that video so I could review it. Appreciate it. Take care.
So, I'm new to 3d printing. I burned the microcontroller, ( blue screen )bought a new one, soldered on, then, the same problem, got a blue screen. Do I have to install a bootloader, to flash a new firmware?
I am having a very odd problem with my Anet A8 in that even though the bed is level and adjusted properly, the first layer of the print is being "printed" 1/8 of an inch off of the bed! My manufacturer has thrown in the towel (they won't/can't help me anymore) so I have no where to turn to for answers. Do you know of a site Where I can ask reliable sources for the answer that might know? I have tried the RepRapWiki and they are stumped as well... Thanks for your help! I watch your channel often and enjoy the information you pass on!
Thanks for the very informative videos. I followed these directions as best I could but my steppers will not move. When I try to jog them they lock up. I'm searching the firmware line by line but I am stumped.
I'm completely new to 3D printing and have a question about the "Motion" section of the config. I understand how to calculate the steps per mm with the Prusa calculator, I just want to know in what order they are respectively in the code. For example, in the config file, you are showing us the values are (80, 80, 4000, 500). What order are these values in? (X, Y, Z, and E) ? I hope the way I asked my question is understood. Thanks.
I saw that you pick up and drop marlin on to a different carpet, which one is that? You had two folders open, one is the marlin and the one on the left was? 🧐
Hello, I can not find an answer wherever you will be in charge, and if I run the 3d printer, the extruder will start to heat itself up and come up to a value of 304 degrees. then when I try to set it myself I get a "maxtemp" error and want to restart the printer. I made the necessary adjustments to the software marlin and code I'm using
Just watched your video since i don't get my probe working properly on my Anet A8. Its a capacitive 18mm probe which seems connected correctly and gives optical feedback once it detects something. However it does not trigger the Z min endstop when homing. At 11:50 in your video you explained the endstop inverting, which was also my first try, but if I change the value of Z_MIN_ENDSTOP and Z_MIN_PROBE ENDSTOP the printer moves the Z axis up instead of down when homing ? And still the probe doesn't trigger the endstop. Any idea what I am doing wrong ?
I am building a custom delta 3d printer based off of a Kossel xl. I got the end stops figured out (meaning they are triggered when closed). The problem I am having is when anyone of the X,Y endstops get pressed the printer will not move anymore. Do you have any ideas how to fix this?
Hi thomas, i'm a masters student, we have a modified leap frog creatr in our lab. Modifier sent us the marlin firmware with all the specifications needed, i'm trying to upload the firmware but every section giving me some compilation errors, how can fix them.
i am struggling with my anycubic chiron my bed thermistor suddenly stopped reading the correct value it is showing 19 degrees but when i plug it in the hot end thermal sensor it is showing its at 60 degrees i thing the port is faulty on the mainboard the mainboard has to 0 for hotend to 1 for bed and extra to ports i want to change my bed from to 1 too to 2 is it possible to do through firmware ?
Thank you for the video!!! Dear friends! I am building a 3D printer and I need your help and advice. I have 4 stepper motors on the Z axis. Question - How can Extruder 2 driver be used in Marlin as an additional drive for the Z axis (so that there are two drivers on the Z axis that work in parallel (each of which controls two stepper motors) Thanks in advance!!!
I have a question: Why aren't SCARA machines more popular? It seems to me that a printer like the Fabrikator mini for example would get better performance and a larger build space with less material cost with a simple SCARA mechanism.
How can I find the origin firmware configuration.h file before updating? I'm not sure about the config of the machine that I use but that needs to be updated. So I need to check the exact thermister type or X, Y and Z steps and... which you teach in this tutorial.
hello! I just made my own 3D printer. I downloaded "Marlin" firmware but when I check my printer by the "Pronterface", all the steppers does not move but they produces jerks and noise. All the motors are new and in working condition but in the printer they have these issues. What should I do? I will be very Thankful to you.
Hello My printer auto bed leveling does not seem to be working even though I have added the G92 in the Slicer. Printer performs the auto leveling but I don't see any difference from when I don't use G92. Can I send you my configuration.h so you can tell if there is a problem with it? Thanks
I am struggling with adding a "store memory" option to my LCD. I have changed/updated/and flashed the arduino EEPROM code changes and for some reason none of my changes take effect on the LCD. I even un-commented the line you suggested around 13:30 that sometimes causes updating complications. Do you have any ideas what I may be doing wrong? Thank you so much for your help
I downloaded this version but I am afraid it is an exec file for Windows. Any idea how to update firmware for tevo tarantula using Mac. Thanks. Great videos, keep up the good work, Thomas.
sir , i made a prusa i3 steel 3d printer and i use board called lsee v1.0 when i load the firmware marlin on this board the printer do nothing and it doesn't work what should i do and what the changes must be in marlin firmware to be compatible with my board
Is there a way to download the firmware from my board using the Arduino software? I want to upgrade from old version of Marlin, but want to see exactly what changes i had made to config file, which i installed 3 years ago.
Hi Thomas, Im replacing a 2560 board that experienced a main power plug short (heated bed not working but the rest seems to kind of work) with a new gt 2560 on a Prusa i3 "CLONE" (pretty crap but works ok...its a printer at my work...I have an Ender 3 which is awesome!! ). Id like to read the current firmware to make note of the settings to upload to the new board. What is the process of getting that information from the original board please??
Hey Tom that was great explanation ,I have used RAMPS1.4 board and in the firmware I defined temp sensor 0 for nozzle and bed sensor for temp sensor bed, nozzle sensor connected T0 on the ramps 1.4 and where should plug bed sensor ,on the ramps1.4 it has T0,T1,T2 PINS please reply
Hi Tom, I changed the extrude heavy original stepper motor by a pancake Bontech. My Ender 5 PLus has been upgraded with a Micro Swiss direct extruder earlier. I did not know that cables were a matter that they might not be the same configuration. Then the machine had strange noise at the new motor and getting hot. I was scared then changed it back. Now It go wrong with the motor gear back and forth. Keith has helped me to config the cable by changing the order of 1346 to new order 1436, at the mean time to reinstall the firmware from Ender-5PlusBLTouch__V1.70.2 BL.hex and Pronterface M92 E0 140.00, M500 I did exactly as guided but it is not fixed. Please give me an advise If I might have missed something. Right now the machine can heat up fine, calibration fine, everything is fine but extrude and retract modes are not functioning nor printing. Thank you very much.
May 7 2023 - I am really confused. DO I actually need to go and buy an Arduino board to get any of this stuff to work? Will an uno work if that is the case? I am trying to figure out what the hell I am supposed to do to upgrade my ender 3Pro with the 4.2.2 main board. I believe this one has been upgraded to the 32B main CPU..... not sure as there are conflicting stories out there. I thought that if I installed the ARDUINO IDE software is this IDE an emulator?????) , it would allow me to compile a file that I can then simply send it to my ender 3 pro and the system would reboot and update? - TRying to upload the custom Marlin 2.1.2
Hi mate, a question, I am currently using a chimera hot end, but I am having problems, can you please help me to get both fo them working please, and what do I need to change in marlin
Having lots of trouble heating up my extruder and bed on wanhoa I3. Both presets of (1 and 6) for the thirmester show a bad reading for the extruder. Please help!
Hi there, I know I'm a little late to this video, so hope i can still get a reply. I have an Eaglemoss Vector 3 (was purchased cheap not knowing much about the subject). I have marlin installed on it, but the bed leveling never worked properly, so i decided to reinstall marlin. I can't anywhere see an answer to how you enable software endstops. Can you help me with this? My printer only has 1 endstop switch on each axis, so when you go to do the bed leveling, it goes way too far and grinds. Please any help would be appreciated, i've been awake for the past 24 hours trying to sort this lol. many thanks. good video.
How do you put the Original v1. Anet A8 firmware on the Anet A6 mother board? Everyone seems to be keeping this a secret for some reason. Can any one tell me?
Hi, I picked up a old reprap i2,, I now have it printing nice, but realized one issue.. I wanted to change a few things and I do not have a backup copy of the Marlin script on the arduino,,,, is there a way i can get the basic info for the printer to show up using some g-code to get the info, so i could set up another arduino with Marlin ??? thinking some ways to save some time then from starting from scratch. ..
+Thomas Sanladerer I see. what do you think of a printer that has four arms that move the print head instead of three like on a delta? I believe that it would be superior to a delta in speed, simplicity of programming, and making straight lines.
I'd be curious to see if this is even possible, but my intuition tells me that it's not. The thing is, triangles are "magic" shapes in that they are always perfectly flat no matter how you orient the corners. The same is not true for squares, which end up bending somewhere in the middle if you raise or lower only a single corner point. There is a good reason why it's called "triangulation."
+chase they exist, and mostly use polar coordinates. Since at least one of the coordinates is usually an angle, the further you move away from the vertex, the least precision you get. Among the non-cartesian printer, the one with less disadvantages is probably the corexy. That's because calculations are way simpler than on deltas, and in some movements both of the xy-plane motors participate, so you get up to double torque. This, together with the fact that you don't have to drag around any heavy stepper (like in cartesian printers) allows reaching higher speeds.
+chase I'm working on a SCARA called MakerArm that works in that way. It's an ambitious project, but I'm sure we'll make progress quickly. As others point out, the polar setup leads to reduced accuracy at the distal end.
i have an azteeg x3 pro on the website its says you need to have marlin version 0023 this version is no longer available for windows is there any way to get around this
What if m119 shows all n-stoppers are Open, and yet none of them works . I've checked the pins on the MKS 1.4 board. They seem to be sitting in the right spots (the same as other youtubers). What have I done wrong? Homing any axis crashes the unit into the n-stopper. Pls help
i have a question whenm mine starts printing it starts about 3 mm from the base of he bed basically it moves the hotend up and then starts printing how do i fix it
Hi tnx for good Description... a question... I have Rumba+ board and 3 extruder & 1 nozzle and TFT 28 LCD. How add extruder num 3 on my TFT configuration...!? (plz help me I Really needed).
I've got an issue with my version of the program where the build area is mirrored when I put the part correctly in my slicer of choice it comes out backward on the printer, how do I fix this?
There is an option that will tell if the axis direction is inverted by changing the (true) or (false) to the opposite after the the optional axis your changing the direction (it's the option Thomas is showing on 11.30 in the video) I only had to change 2 not all 3 so make sure you check them after changing ;)
Hi, i use marlin on ramps 1.4. my question is: Is there a way to use marlin in EFF mode but still have heated bed via an external MOSFET ? My goal is to use both D8 and D9 pins for Fans (D10 for Heater) and connect a heated bed to it using an external MOSFET (Don't wanna use RRD fan extender) If So what codes in marlin must be edited to do that ? May i simply remap Heated Bed pin to a free pin ? Which free pin is suitable for Heat Bed ?
Can anyone help me figure out why when I click marlin in the folder I downloaded I don’t get any additional tabs like configuration h or anything else I get a single tab that just says marlin???
I see that the merlin.ino file shown in this video contains some code. but the one I downloaded only has some comments, no code. Is it not necessaly in the newer version of the firmware (1.1.x) ?
![PASULOL รามเกียรติ์ ตอนที่ 4 นนทกพบรัก [Ramakien Ep.4: Nonthok in love]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tMUQgmZzf_A/mqdefault.jpg)
2020 and still helps. However, I think its time for an update!
6:02 Boud Rate
6:29 Motherboard (Ramps)
7:39 Thermistor
8:33 Safety etc (Thermal runaway)
11:03 End Stop Info. & 16:13
12:00 Z Prob
12:20 Motion
13:14 EProm Settings
Still relevant in 2022. I bought a V1.03 lulzbot mini off ebay and needed to upgrade to a motherboard compatible with LCD interface. The stock motherboard was a mini Rambo 1.1b and I needed a 1.3a. Lulzbot wanted to charge $200, but I could buy the same board from Prusa for $130 (somehow shipping to CA from CZ was less than shipping from ND). The only catch was that I needed to flash brand new firmware. Because this board came with Prusa firmware already installed, Cura alone was not enough to connect to the board and update firmware. Arduino was the only way and this video showed me everything I needed to make it work. Thanks Thomas!!!
Finally got the time to tinker with the printer and your videos help a lot, it is all I need to get started again and it covers everything I need. Really removes a lot of painfull research and testing. Many thanks!
Did anyone else time travel and come here from the 2014 version and see Tom get older and better?
Actually, I time traveled an additional year to respond to your comment just... now.
it's late 2020 and this is still helpful! Thanks brother!
That was a very good and concise explanation of the configuration process. We've got a boatload of changes coming to Marlin 1.1.0 (which will have another so-called "release candidate" out shortly) and it would be great to see an update on configuration and some of the new features when it's released.
Perfect explanations, presentation and delivery as always.
And, I always learn more from you with every video.
Keep up the great work Tom
Thanks Thomas for this video I really needed it and probably all the others that you mention in here. I am learning more from this channel than I have from everywhere but the Docs! Your the best and really appreciate what you do. When I am able, I will make sure I hit you up with a little green! I finally picked up my first Printer ever because of you and the fact that I have this awesome resource. You are the best on TH-cam! The Duke of 3D.
Thomas, great informative video. I'm building a new printer soon and really appreciate the time you put in to these videos.
Just made and working build of Marlin 1.1.7 for the CR10S and works amazingly well :)
Great video! Love these in depth explanations.
Awesome and helpful video, although i couldn't help but notice the sequence of Chinese in your shirt is supposed to be "今日娱乐节目".
Just as an FYI to people. Marlin IS available for the Monoprice Mini DELTA machine that I am using. In fact I have Marlin running on it now. The fork is "MARLIN4MPMD". It saved my sanity.
16:14 Can we make this the new 3D printing gang sign please? This is perfect and I'm going to use this trick all the time
Ahahahaha nice idea :D
I think the "POVRay" crew already has that one. ;)
That's fair. We'll just steal it.
Question when I open it. It doesn't have all the tabs as shown in your video?
I highly recommend Repetier Firmware for delta machines, it has better delta calculation giving smoother prints and higher max speed.
I hope to see a 2020 version with Marlin 2.0 this year.
Super video. Very informative. Helped me very much as to what all parameters mean in the firmware and how to tweak them. Thanks
I must already have done it on a another video but nevertheless, THANK YOU, or should I say, DANK JE, Thomas. Your help for us newbies is invaluable.
This was an excellent video with great explanation of the config files. Thanks.
Thank you so much. It became very usefull video for me. When i finished my clone ultimaker 2 extended's mechanic I'll start working on firmware :)
When updating the config for the latest version with entries from the old firmware, how do you account for differences in options? The firmware released with my printer is missing some options that are in the latest version, and vice versa.
Can we get an updated 2017/2018 version of this video in 4k?
Very nice walk though Tom.
Will you be doing a Repetier walk through? I'm interested to hear you thoughts of PID VS Dead Time Temp control.
Do you have a video on setting up Marlin for a printer not listed and more basic. People who are not trying this for the first time I am sure are clear when you say just change this or add this or go here and get this and add it..... I am new to this and have spent several hours trying different change this and add this or this should be scenarios and have not got it to work yet!
Thanks for the videos and I am sure in the future they will make more since.
I much prefer the Repetier firmware, also comes with a nice web interface configuration editor so no sifting through config files.
will that work with ramps 1.4
Dear respected sir, Hope you are in good health with success and happiness. I am really happy for your awsome works. Two days ago, I bought a RUMBA control board for my large scale 3-color 3D printer. But I am facing some problem to install marlin software. What could be the differences if I use RUMBA control board and 3-color extruder? Please sir, reply me.....
excellent production quality!
Great video :) , it helped me set up most of my self build printer, but i dont know how to set the home position and how to tell the printer where to start printing. at the moment when i home the printer the head just goes to the top corner, it does not know where the bed is or where to start the print or even the bed size. any chance you have a video of how to set that up in marlin? thanks for all your videos...
In start of video you told " i show you world of c++ configuration files that control every thing about your 3D printer." But you did not tell about lcd and sd card configuration. I am new in this field and did not familiar about c++ so please tell me have you any video about lcd and sd card configuration.
Any it very help full. Thanks for sharing
*Pls HELP: Want to adjust z home position to -0.1*, *Im not using any probe sensor*
i do
G28
M211 S0(so i can go below 0)
Adjust my z axis(let say I want it to be -0.1, as we know sign should be opposite so +ve 0.1)
m428(to save all offsets)
m500
m501(shows i have successfully saved it X:0 Y:0 Z:-0.1)
*but when I home again I expect it be -0.1mm below the actual position. which it doesn't. The nozzle stays at 0,0,0. But if do M501 it still shows my nozzle position to be at X:0 Y:0 Z:-0.1*
*why is the nozzle not going down by -0.1mm even though it has been written on EEPROM*
this is exactly the video i needed! thanks!
Would you please do a video on the mks gen l v1.0 firmware for tronxy x5s configuration. I'm having trouble with this?
Thanks
Hello Tom,
Great video, as always!
In your previous version of this video guide you mentioned that you prefer not to use PID when you're controlling the heated bed with a solid state relay (for example for powering a silicone heater with mains voltage). Do you still recommend using the bang-bang method in such cases?
Dont home any axis before checking endstops are working with M119 commands
Good advice - and always be within 3ft of the power off switch. First machine, Repra i2, crash crash crash crash, and now I have a drone - crash crash crash....
what software is being used to send these commands?
Could you make another videos for Marlin ...
That video so fast and I could not understand, was this work with you?!
Because this version of marlin does not work I do not know why it doesn't ?!
Hello,
I followed everything including the setup video for the Full Graphic Smart Display, but there are some major issues with the SD card. It will only recognize once and then never again. I think this video is a bit outdated.
Hi Tom, could you add the links to the relevant other videos you made about the Marlin firmware in the description please?
It take ages to find the time in the video when you mentioned then and provide the link and I can't find all of them in your video list.
Cheers, Jeremy
Great video :)
Just one question. In you tutorial you installed the latest RC version. Should we really go for the possibly bug-filled release candidates or is it a better idea to opt for the stable version?
Thomas ... nice video ... when you got to the section on Z Probe ... that I was looking for. You said you had another video that covered that section in more detail. I looked, but didn’t seem to locate it. Could you give me the title to that video so I could review it. Appreciate it. Take care.
Another great video Thanks Thomas
Thanks Thomas, your videos are always very helpful. Keep up the great work!
Hi Thomas ! compare marlin and Skynet firmware , which one is more user friendly and easy to use ?
Thanks :)
Skynet is a fork of marlin. If there is a preconfigured version for your printer, use that.
So, I'm new to 3d printing.
I burned the microcontroller, ( blue screen )bought a new one, soldered on, then, the same problem, got a blue screen.
Do I have to install a bootloader, to flash a new firmware?
thanks for all your videos, they are very helpful. :)
I am having a very odd problem with my Anet A8 in that even though the bed is level and adjusted properly, the first layer of the print is being "printed" 1/8 of an inch off of the bed! My manufacturer has thrown in the towel (they won't/can't help me anymore) so I have no where to turn to for answers. Do you know of a site Where I can ask reliable sources for the answer that might know? I have tried the RepRapWiki and they are stumped as well... Thanks for your help! I watch your channel often and enjoy the information you pass on!
Hey Thom! Have you thought about doing an update for the smoothieware software?
Thanks for the very informative videos. I followed these directions as best I could but my steppers will not move. When I try to jog them they lock up. I'm searching the firmware line by line but I am stumped.
can you please make a 2018 updated config.
I'm completely new to 3D printing and have a question about the "Motion" section of the config. I understand how to calculate the steps per mm with the Prusa calculator, I just want to know in what order they are respectively in the code. For example, in the config file, you are showing us the values are (80, 80, 4000, 500). What order are these values in? (X, Y, Z, and E) ? I hope the way I asked my question is understood. Thanks.
A great video as always and very informative..
I saw that you pick up and drop marlin on to a different carpet, which one is that? You had two folders open, one is the marlin and the one on the left was? 🧐
Hello, I can not find an answer wherever you will be in charge, and if I run the 3d printer, the extruder will start to heat itself up and come up to a value of 304 degrees. then when I try to set it myself I get a "maxtemp" error and want to restart the printer.
I made the necessary adjustments to the software marlin and code I'm using
Just watched your video since i don't get my probe working properly on my Anet A8. Its a capacitive 18mm probe which seems connected correctly and gives optical feedback once it detects something. However it does not trigger the Z min endstop when homing. At 11:50 in your video you explained the endstop inverting, which was also my first try, but if I change the value of Z_MIN_ENDSTOP and Z_MIN_PROBE ENDSTOP the printer moves the Z axis up instead of down when homing ? And still the probe doesn't trigger the endstop. Any idea what I am doing wrong ?
Super !! thats was help my to solve my problem thank You so much !!! very helpful video
I am building a custom delta 3d printer based off of a Kossel xl. I got the end stops figured out (meaning they are triggered when closed). The problem I am having is when anyone of the X,Y endstops get pressed the printer will not move anymore. Do you have any ideas how to fix this?
Thank you for this very useful video
Will you do something like this when the einsy board comes out?
Like always really well done video!
can you help me ?? i have problem, when i try to homing all axis, always error with code "Error:Printer halted. kill() called", what shpuld i do ?
Hi thomas, i'm a masters student, we have a modified leap frog creatr in our lab. Modifier sent us the marlin firmware with all the specifications needed, i'm trying to upload the firmware but every section giving me some compilation errors, how can fix them.
i am struggling with my anycubic chiron my bed thermistor suddenly stopped reading the correct value it is showing 19 degrees but when i plug it in the hot end thermal sensor it is showing its at 60 degrees i thing the port is faulty on the mainboard the mainboard has to 0 for hotend to 1 for bed and extra to ports i want to change my bed from to 1 too to 2 is it possible to do through firmware ?
My 3D printer (tevo Turantula) is not directly connected to my PC. Do I need to connect it to modify these settings?
Thank you for the video!!!
Dear friends! I am building a 3D printer and I need your help and advice. I have 4 stepper motors on the Z axis.
Question -
How can Extruder 2 driver be used in Marlin as an additional drive for the Z axis (so that there are two drivers on the Z axis that work in parallel (each of which controls two stepper motors)
Thanks in advance!!!
I have a question: Why aren't SCARA machines more popular? It seems to me that a printer
like the Fabrikator mini for example would get better performance and a larger build
space with less material cost with a simple SCARA mechanism.
How can I find the origin firmware configuration.h file before updating? I'm not sure about the config of the machine that I use but that needs to be updated. So I need to check the exact thermister type or X, Y and Z steps and... which you teach in this tutorial.
hello!
I just made my own 3D printer. I downloaded "Marlin" firmware but when I check my printer by the "Pronterface", all the steppers does not move but they produces jerks and noise. All the motors are new and in working condition but in the printer they have these issues. What should I do?
I will be very Thankful to you.
hey Thomas , is there a way to get my configs out of my anet a8 before i upgrade mine firmaware?
Thank you , and keep up the great job
is there a way to download example configuration.h file for cartesian printers?
im having trouble.
Hello
My printer auto bed leveling does not seem to be working even though I have added the G92 in the Slicer. Printer performs the auto leveling but I don't see any difference from when I don't use G92. Can I send you my configuration.h so you can tell if there is a problem with it? Thanks
as always, very informative,.. but one thing I noticed, I don't have a "boards.h" file or tab anywhere.... ?
Thanks for gudiens and support
I am struggling with adding a "store memory" option to my LCD. I have changed/updated/and flashed the arduino EEPROM code changes and for some reason none of my changes take effect on the LCD. I even un-commented the line you suggested around 13:30 that sometimes causes updating complications. Do you have any ideas what I may be doing wrong? Thank you so much for your help
I downloaded this version but I am afraid it is an exec file for Windows. Any idea how to update firmware for tevo tarantula using Mac. Thanks. Great videos, keep up the good work, Thomas.
THIS VIDEO IS GOD SEND.
Hello thomas my printer having issue of skipping step.
Please help me to solve this issue?
Thanks
sir , i made a prusa i3 steel 3d printer and i use board called lsee v1.0 when i load the firmware marlin on this board the printer do nothing and it doesn't work what should i do and what the changes must be in marlin firmware to be compatible with my board
Is there a way to download the firmware from my board using the Arduino software? I want to upgrade from old version of Marlin, but want to see exactly what changes i had made to config file, which i installed 3 years ago.
Hi Thomas, Im replacing a 2560 board that experienced a main power plug short (heated bed not working but the rest seems to kind of work) with a new gt 2560 on a Prusa i3 "CLONE" (pretty crap but works ok...its a printer at my work...I have an Ender 3 which is awesome!! ). Id like to read the current firmware to make note of the settings to upload to the new board. What is the process of getting that information from the original board please??
Hey Tom that was great explanation ,I have used RAMPS1.4 board and in the firmware I defined temp sensor 0 for nozzle and bed sensor for temp sensor bed, nozzle sensor connected T0 on the ramps 1.4 and where should plug bed sensor ,on the ramps1.4 it has T0,T1,T2 PINS please reply
Hi Tom,
I changed the extrude heavy original stepper motor by a pancake Bontech. My Ender 5 PLus has been upgraded with a Micro Swiss direct extruder earlier. I did not know that cables were a matter that they might not be the same configuration. Then the machine had strange noise at the new motor and getting hot. I was scared then changed it back. Now It go wrong with the motor gear back and forth.
Keith has helped me to config the cable by changing the order of 1346 to new order 1436, at the mean time to reinstall the firmware from Ender-5PlusBLTouch__V1.70.2 BL.hex and Pronterface M92 E0 140.00, M500
I did exactly as guided but it is not fixed. Please give me an advise If I might have missed something. Right now the machine can heat up fine, calibration fine, everything is fine but extrude and retract modes are not functioning nor printing. Thank you very much.
May 7 2023 - I am really confused. DO I actually need to go and buy an Arduino board to get any of this stuff to work? Will an uno work if that is the case? I am trying to figure out what the hell I am supposed to do to upgrade my ender 3Pro with the 4.2.2 main board. I believe this one has been upgraded to the 32B main CPU..... not sure as there are conflicting stories out there. I thought that if I installed the ARDUINO IDE software is this IDE an emulator?????) , it would allow me to compile a file that I can then simply send it to my ender 3 pro and the system would reboot and update? - TRying to upload the custom Marlin 2.1.2
Thomas can you do a walk through on the new merlin RC8 as I am lost on the bed tramming it's all confusing me... Since its update... Thanks mate...
Hi mate, a question, I am currently using a chimera hot end, but I am having problems, can you please help me to get both fo them working please, and what do I need to change in marlin
hey Tom, my printer is not displaying a mintemp error even though I have no thermistor plugged in.
Hi how to change the home position X and Y are ok but Z moves to the center of the bed i want to change the Z position where x0 and y0 are pls help
Having lots of trouble heating up my extruder and bed on wanhoa I3. Both presets of (1 and 6) for the thirmester show a bad reading for the extruder. Please help!
Hi there, I know I'm a little late to this video, so hope i can still get a reply. I have an Eaglemoss Vector 3 (was purchased cheap not knowing much about the subject). I have marlin installed on it, but the bed leveling never worked properly, so i decided to reinstall marlin. I can't anywhere see an answer to how you enable software endstops. Can you help me with this? My printer only has 1 endstop switch on each axis, so when you go to do the bed leveling, it goes way too far and grinds. Please any help would be appreciated, i've been awake for the past 24 hours trying to sort this lol. many thanks. good video.
How do you put the Original v1. Anet A8 firmware on the Anet A6 mother board? Everyone seems to be keeping this a secret for some reason. Can any one tell me?
Hi, I picked up a old reprap i2,, I now have it printing nice, but realized one issue.. I wanted to change a few things and I do not have a backup copy of the Marlin script on the arduino,,,, is there a way i can get the basic info for the printer to show up using some g-code to get the info, so i could set up another arduino with Marlin ??? thinking some ways to save some time then from starting from scratch. ..
hello after making a change to one of the endstops on the firmware and uploading it the screen is now blank
So why do we use slicers that use Cartesian coordinates for delta printers instead of slicing them with the delta conversions?
+Thomas Sanladerer I see. what do you think of a printer that has four arms that move the print head instead of three like on a delta? I believe that it would be superior to a delta in speed, simplicity of programming, and making straight lines.
I'd be curious to see if this is even possible, but my intuition tells me that it's not. The thing is, triangles are "magic" shapes in that they are always perfectly flat no matter how you orient the corners. The same is not true for squares, which end up bending somewhere in the middle if you raise or lower only a single corner point. There is a good reason why it's called "triangulation."
+9998 9998 - why not a single robot style arm?
+chase they exist, and mostly use polar coordinates. Since at least one of the coordinates is usually an angle, the further you move away from the vertex, the least precision you get.
Among the non-cartesian printer, the one with less disadvantages is probably the corexy. That's because calculations are way simpler than on deltas, and in some movements both of the xy-plane motors participate, so you get up to double torque. This, together with the fact that you don't have to drag around any heavy stepper (like in cartesian printers) allows reaching higher speeds.
+chase I'm working on a SCARA called MakerArm that works in that way. It's an ambitious project, but I'm sure we'll make progress quickly. As others point out, the polar setup leads to reduced accuracy at the distal end.
i have an azteeg x3 pro on the website its says you need to have marlin version 0023 this version is no longer available for windows is there any way to get around this
What if m119 shows all n-stoppers are Open, and yet none of them works . I've checked the pins on the MKS 1.4 board. They seem to be sitting in the right spots (the same as other youtubers). What have I done wrong? Homing any axis crashes the unit into the n-stopper. Pls help
i have a question whenm mine starts printing it starts about 3 mm from the base of he bed basically it moves the hotend up and then starts printing how do i fix it
Hi tnx for good Description...
a question...
I have Rumba+ board and 3 extruder & 1 nozzle and TFT 28 LCD.
How add extruder num 3 on my TFT configuration...!?
(plz help me I Really needed).
I've got an issue with my version of the program where the build area is mirrored when I put the part correctly in my slicer of choice it comes out backward on the printer, how do I fix this?
There is an option that will tell if the axis direction is inverted by changing the (true) or (false) to the opposite after the the optional axis your changing the direction (it's the option Thomas is showing on 11.30 in the video) I only had to change 2 not all 3 so make sure you check them after changing ;)
Hi, i use marlin on ramps 1.4.
my question is: Is there a way to use marlin in EFF mode but still have heated bed via an external MOSFET ?
My goal is to use both D8 and D9 pins for Fans (D10 for Heater) and connect a heated bed to it using an external MOSFET (Don't wanna use RRD fan extender)
If So what codes in marlin must be edited to do that ? May i simply remap Heated Bed pin to a free pin ? Which free pin is suitable for Heat Bed ?
Can anyone help me figure out why when I click marlin in the folder I downloaded I don’t get any additional tabs like configuration h or anything else I get a single tab that just says marlin???
I see that the merlin.ino file shown in this video contains some code. but the one I downloaded only has some comments, no code. Is it not necessaly in the newer version of the firmware (1.1.x) ?