Great video I put my clutch hub on exactly as the video instructed and after ride it for 2 years it hadn't moved and was in perfect condition. After the 1st owner of the bike didn't install the hub correctly I had to replace the trans shaft and the clutch hub. Again thanks !!!!
Once when I worked on a customers truck I accedently poured red locktight into the engine oil. The locktight was in a quart size clear container and I thought it was Marvel Mystery Oil. Im a fry cook now.
Good info on the install. My BDL front pulley seems to be vary tight when trying to push it on my 1982 Harley Shovel Crankshaft. Are there different spline geometries available ?? I don't want to use a Rubber mallet to get it on. Any help would be appreciated... BTW the rear Pulley slides on the tranny just fine.
That belt drive or a gear drive primary is what Harley-Davidson needs to go to from the factory. Why Harley-Davidson is still using a chain primary drive system with a totally new motor in 2017/2018 is beyond me.
would like to know how long he reckons for the Loctite to go off ha ha aha and the amount of it he used would take 2 years to go off. as soon as he pushed the sprocket on he must of put 90% of the Loctite out the back ha aha .. a proper plank.
Tell me please, I have such a situation is the drive belt from the engine to the box to the left and chain drive to the wheel to the left, too idet.Mozhno whether to put in place a chain belt and was walking on the right storony.Nuzhno another transmission or put-please tell me.
How do you hold those pulley stationary????? - with the chain drives, I just shove a block of hard wood in the chain, but how do you hold them with no chain?
Thanks for the video. But you should not distribute the LOCTITE at the shaft with finger! It is poisonous and should not distribute by fingers. Even it should ONLY use for the thread.
Hey can someone confirm to me that I can easily remove the stock 97 Softail Harley-Davidson chain primary system inner and outer primary case and install this BDL open belt drive system with no problem the S9 is the one that I got
No, not in the original setup. But if you follow this genius' instructions, you'll need to torch the whole bike before things will come apart. The use of loctite in this... instruction video is plain hideous.
I have a question and suggestion. First off if you manufacture to HD tolerances on the splines as you suggest in the video, I must ask why do you use Loctite red and HD does NOT. Now I think you should show a "disassembly" video after the loctite red has taken a set for a couple months. The only thing that will make Loctite red let go is extreme heat. This part is easily removable from the factory for a reason such as when you break a final drive belt on the road.
I have never run red Loctite on my bike. That is a matter of preference I guess, because I do not use Loctite anywhere on my 74 FX. However, I love that Loctite thread repair kit! Great shit!
When I installed my open primary. I decided to go a different route. I have some anxiety issues and after a few dreams. About my clutch hub flying off and killing a baby. My choice was JB Weld for the main shaft splines. My Grandpa Jack always said you can never use too much. That's what rags are for. One of my buddies let me borrow his 4 to 1 TQ multiplier from Snap On. I snugged everything up till I couldn't turn the assembly. Back off the nut. Then retorqed it with an impact like you did. But, I connected the impact to the torque multiplier. To make sure its all snug as bug in a rug. Going for a ride tomorrow. Charging my battery tonight. Strange it died on me in just 2 hours. Hit the button an my lights get dim. Nothing turns and I hear a noise like EEEERRRRRR. So tomorrow gonna fire that bad boy up.
How would I remove the clutch. Hub? I have taken the clutch hub nut off even the snap ring that was on there the clutch plates. I have applied heat to it with a heat gun as well as tapped it with a rubber mallet and it won't buge. Any ideas?
I’m sure you got it off by now but for others even with all that loctite , the clutch hub comes off fairly easy with an automotive harmonic balancer puller and heat. Use a sacrificial washer on the trans shaft.
I have a 3" open BDL on my Shovelhead. I had to do some stator and main seal work. My question is that i have to torque up that front pully to around 240ft Lbs. So how do i lock the pully without stretching my new belt using a block?!.
exactly - how do you hold those pulley stationary - with the chain drives, I just shove a block of hard wood in the chain, but how do you hold them with no chain?
Like others have said, you have to be kidding me with putting red loctite on the main shaft. No fkn way. How in the hell are you EVER supposed to get the clutch hub off again?! Heat?? What exactly are you gonna be heating? The entire clutch hub assembly, not anywhere near the main shaft. Stupid stupid stupid....
i broke my primary belt. and i need to remove the front pulley in order to reinstall the belt. is there a trick to removing this pully? keeps spinning and with all that lock tight i can't turn the nut.
Just take out a spark plug and insert a 7/16 rod down through the spark plug hole to prevent the crankshaft from making a revolution. If this doesn't work, pour a generous amount of RED Loctite into the cylinder and let sit overnight to harden on the rings and cylinder wall. Remember, Loctite works by "absence of air, presence of metal" so remember to put the spark plug back in after you apply the Loctite to the piston rings. It also helps to always use a 3/4 drive impact wrench to remove pulley nut. An alternative method is to put the transmission in it's highest gear and secure the rear tire down with multiple ratchet straps, put a socket and breaker bar on the pulley nut while wedging breaker bar against a non movable object, then start engine and the nut will come right off.....Voila . You're welcome!
I am freaked out ! Why? The air hammer is beating the crap out of the bearings, Esp the crank bearings. Just not a good idea to use such a tool on sensitive parts.
I wish someone would show how they hold the pulleys in order to torque the nuts on them?? I have a tool that looks like a set of stairs for chain drive that holds the pulleys from moving but have not seen anybody show us how that part is done.
Love the comments from haters! Honestly just shut up and ride your ride. Nobody is out here talking shit about power rangers! Everyone is so butt hurt!
ok,,so thru this whole video there is NO MENTION OF A TOOL,,,TO HOLD THE HUB FROM SPINNING WHEN TIGHTNING THE MOTOR NUT,,,, WITHOUT USING AN IMPACT,,,I just want to use a toque wrench not an impact,,its 160 ft lbs and I tried putting it in gear,,blah blah blah,,etc,,etc,,,
Damn funny that you want a rubber band to drive your transmission, then one back to the rear wheel too? Whatever the fascination is with these putt putt V-twins is beyond me. but make sure you have gallons of red lock-tite to hold all that crap together....Bwaahahahahaahaha
Great video I put my clutch hub on exactly as the video instructed and after ride it for 2 years it hadn't moved and was in perfect condition. After the 1st owner of the bike didn't install the hub correctly I had to replace the trans shaft and the clutch hub. Again thanks !!!!
i know it's kinda off topic but do anybody know of a good site to watch newly released tv shows online?
Once when I worked on a customers truck I accedently poured red locktight into the engine oil. The locktight was in a quart size clear container and I thought it was Marvel Mystery Oil. Im a fry cook now.
Hi,very good tip, congratulations, blessings.
If it’s so “easy” then i’ll stick with assembly lube. Sawing off rear primaries aren’t my thing.
Im with rayc on this one....How the HELL would you get this thing off in a year or so with SO much red loctite on it???
I'm dealing with that on a bike I bought at this very time.
Great video. Thanks for clearing up the red loctite thing.
When you say "wait for the locktite to go off " you mean" for it to dry "right?
I’ll listen to the experts...Thanks BDL
That man talking is wink eller... I think he counts as an expert
Good info on the install. My BDL front pulley seems to be vary tight when trying to push it on my 1982 Harley Shovel Crankshaft. Are there different spline geometries available ??
I don't want to use a Rubber mallet to get it on. Any help would be appreciated...
BTW the rear Pulley slides on the tranny just fine.
How do you know the right amount of torque if you just hammer it in there with that pneumatic wrench????
Thanks, do you recommend the locktite for the tapered shaft/hub too?
What is the belt tension spec on these? I seriously can't find an answer anywhere.
Bad ass great advice thank you
That belt drive or a gear drive primary is what Harley-Davidson needs to go to from the factory. Why Harley-Davidson is still using a chain primary drive system with a totally new motor in 2017/2018 is beyond me.
War stock. Harley has miles of chain to use up before they replace it with something better.
Just watched till the end. OMG - "wait till the lock tight goes off till you ride your bike". Absolute bollocks!!!!!
would like to know how long he reckons for the Loctite to go off ha ha aha and the amount of it he used would take 2 years to go off. as soon as he pushed the sprocket on he must of put 90% of the Loctite out the back ha aha .. a proper plank.
Hey ya Wink!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Dano
hey is this Wink Eller in the video?
Tell me please, I have such a situation is the drive belt from the engine to the box to the left and chain drive to the wheel to the left, too idet.Mozhno whether to put in place a chain belt and was walking on the right storony.Nuzhno another transmission or put-please tell me.
How close should the belt be to the ring gear?
Do you have a open primary that fits 1979 flh Electra glide?
How do you hold those pulley stationary????? - with the chain drives, I just shove a block of hard wood in the chain, but how do you hold them with no chain?
yeah that's my question tooo,,whats the answer?????????
@@billcarson6790BDL make a locking tool
I got three words that will change your world. Primary locking bar.
Or make one
@@Joejoe5560 thanks Joe for getting back to me three years later, those are three words as well - lol
Thanks for the video. But you should not distribute the LOCTITE at the shaft with finger! It is poisonous and should not distribute by fingers. Even it should ONLY use for the thread.
Hey can someone confirm to me that I can easily remove the stock 97 Softail Harley-Davidson chain primary system inner and outer primary case and install this BDL open belt drive system with no problem the S9 is the one that I got
Cool how about a rear chain drive?
do tou need to take a torch the clutch hub nut to uninstall
YES, I did
No, not in the original setup. But if you follow this genius' instructions, you'll need to torch the whole bike before things will come apart. The use of loctite in this... instruction video is plain hideous.
You say torque the front pulley nut to specs..... whose specs, Harley or BDL???? They differ quite a bit.
Think real hard. It'll come to you.
I have a question and suggestion.
First off if you manufacture to HD tolerances on the splines as you suggest in the video, I must ask why do you use Loctite red and HD does NOT.
Now I think you should show a "disassembly" video after the loctite red has taken a set for a couple months. The only thing that will make Loctite red let go is extreme heat.
This part is easily removable from the factory for a reason such as when you break a final drive belt on the road.
Can I put an EVO inner and outer primary along with the clutch and starter on my 1982 shovel head ? Plus is there a certain year
I have never run red Loctite on my bike. That is a matter of preference I guess, because I do not use Loctite anywhere on my 74 FX. However, I love that Loctite thread repair kit! Great shit!
Reference the HD tolerances, the stock HD is oiled. The BDL being dry should have something in there to cushion the spline.
No worries about ruining the rotor by using an impact to put the motor sprocket nut on?
When I installed my open primary. I decided to go a different route. I have some anxiety issues and after a few dreams. About my clutch hub flying off and killing a baby. My choice was JB Weld for the main shaft splines. My Grandpa Jack always said you can never use too much. That's what rags are for.
One of my buddies let me borrow his 4 to 1 TQ multiplier from Snap On. I snugged everything up till I couldn't turn the assembly. Back off the nut. Then retorqed it with an impact like you did. But, I connected the impact to the torque multiplier. To make sure its all snug as bug in a rug.
Going for a ride tomorrow. Charging my battery tonight. Strange it died on me in just 2 hours. Hit the button an my lights get dim. Nothing turns and I hear a noise like EEEERRRRRR. So tomorrow gonna fire that bad boy up.
Wtf? Dude I hope this was just a troll comment.....
I think you two need to understand what a bit of humour is.. the fell a is joking for fuck sake
Make sure to loctite your splines and loctite your nut, you can put some in your hair, maybe brush your teeth with it.. red loctite
Belt Tension?????
How would I remove the clutch. Hub? I have taken the clutch hub nut off even the snap ring that was on there the clutch plates. I have applied heat to it with a heat gun as well as tapped it with a rubber mallet and it won't buge. Any ideas?
I’m sure you got it off by now but for others even with all that loctite , the clutch hub comes off fairly easy with an automotive harmonic balancer puller and heat. Use a sacrificial washer on the trans shaft.
I have a 3" open BDL on my Shovelhead. I had to do some stator and main seal work.
My question is that i have to torque up that front pully to around 240ft Lbs. So how do i lock the pully without stretching my new belt using a block?!.
exactly - how do you hold those pulley stationary - with the chain drives, I just shove a block of hard wood in the chain, but how do you hold them with no chain?
easy rider,, do u have an answer,,,cause thats my question too...
Primary locking bar
you leave the back hub (with all the locktite) on the bike and you remove the front hub and replace the belt... its not rocket surgery...
is the clutch housed in the transmission or the engine
neither .
wheres it at
lol
Neither, its in the PRIMARY
The clutch is integral to the rear sprocket.
70 Ft/lb is 9 clicks ? :)
Like others have said, you have to be kidding me with putting red loctite on the main shaft. No fkn way. How in the hell are you EVER supposed to get the clutch hub off again?! Heat?? What exactly are you gonna be heating? The entire clutch hub assembly, not anywhere near the main shaft. Stupid stupid stupid....
comes apart easy with a common harmonic balancer puller.
Cool
Sponsored by red loctite
i broke my primary belt. and i need to remove the front pulley in order to reinstall the belt. is there a trick to removing this pully? keeps spinning and with all that lock tight i can't turn the nut.
YES, Heat it up
Just take out a spark plug and insert a 7/16 rod down through the spark plug hole to prevent the crankshaft from making a revolution. If this doesn't work, pour a generous amount of RED Loctite into the cylinder and let sit overnight to harden on the rings and cylinder wall. Remember, Loctite works by "absence of air, presence of metal" so remember to put the spark plug back in after you apply the Loctite to the piston rings. It also helps to always use a 3/4 drive impact wrench to remove pulley nut. An alternative method is to put the transmission in it's highest gear and secure the rear tire down with multiple ratchet straps, put a socket and breaker bar on the pulley nut while wedging breaker bar against a non movable object, then start engine and the nut will come right off.....Voila . You're welcome!
@@johndisalvo6283 Hahahahaha..... perfect
Run out of jam for your PB&J? Red loctite.
asembly harley davidson springer
I am freaked out ! Why? The air hammer is beating the crap out of the bearings, Esp the crank bearings. Just not a good idea to use such a tool on sensitive parts.
Redlock splines never to be stripped again!
I wish someone would show how they hold the pulleys in order to torque the nuts on them?? I have a tool that looks like a set of stairs for chain drive that holds the pulleys from moving but have not seen anybody show us how that part is done.
Tony Parson . Jim’s clutch locking tool or “mouse stairs”
@@knucklehed34 Mouse stairs is for the chain drive primary - what he is asking is how you lock these pulleys with the belt primary?
Love the comments from haters! Honestly just shut up and ride your ride. Nobody is out here talking shit about power rangers! Everyone is so butt hurt!
ok,,so thru this whole video there is NO MENTION OF A TOOL,,,TO HOLD THE HUB FROM SPINNING WHEN TIGHTNING THE MOTOR NUT,,,, WITHOUT USING AN IMPACT,,,I just want to use a toque wrench not an impact,,its 160 ft lbs and I tried putting it in gear,,blah blah blah,,etc,,etc,,,
use more locktite, ahahahah
Sir Whistler Bhagwan LOL
do you reckon he likes Loctite ? I bet he gets it free ha ah
Damn funny that you want a rubber band to drive your transmission, then one back to the rear wheel too? Whatever the fascination is with these putt putt V-twins is beyond me. but make sure you have gallons of red lock-tite to hold all that crap together....Bwaahahahahaahaha
I have nearly 300,000 original miles on one of these put put V-twin evo motors.
@@glenndavis2762 can I email you a few questions about mine?
Lpp
its just pride to ride AMERICAN MADE bikes,, bwahahaha
American? Then buy Victory. They are much more American, not using imported parts like harley!
You mean INDIAN, right?
Superb.