Hey rockentry, I know when climbing having your arms straight is key, but when you are on an overhang, or even upside down, do you keep your arms straight, or bent? Straight would be energy conserving, but bent would allow for an easier transition to the next hold (When upside down).
Great question, This all depends on the climb but you should keep Straight arms as much as possible but most importantly don't forget about body positioning/footwork is a huge part when overhanging. Of course you will have to pull and do other moves between transition but when you can keep arm straight with practice you will know when to keep arms straight and not specially when you're trying to keep your body on a roof climb. Hope this helps! I'll make sure to make a video to cover this. Thank you!
Just started climbing around a month ago and have taken to it like nothing ive ever done before. Just sent my first v5 last week and a lot of it has to do with using your tutorials to help me progress my technique exponentially faster than just trial and error. Just on the off chance you see this wanted you to know that people really do appreciate the quality work you put in brother, keep it up and thanks for all the help!!
A month and already climbing V5's you crushing it! I feel grateful to be part of your progress and glad my content is helping you on your climbing journey. I really appreciate your support my friend. Much Love!
Thanks so much for making these videos. Your analysis makes me realize climbing is cerebral and you really have to think about what you're doing; it's not simply strength but technique and strategy
Thank you for this video. We just started learning dynamic climbing with our instructor and it is still a challenge with trusting my foot placement after the move is complete and/or not being efficient from the start. This usually resulted in me slipping off the wall on a higher end 5.9 or low end 5.10. I usually require taking an active rest 1/2 way up the belay wall. Thank you for these tips
5 minutes who changes completely my way to see. Fantastic one more time ! 5 stars thank you so much ! Now I would like to see some more moves in the rock
The double and triple takes while the VO rolls is great. It helps to absorb what I'm seeing. I'd love to see more crack. I'm currently HORRIBLE at crack. (which is a fantastic challenge)
Hey OS! Thanks for the vid, yours is a really great quality channel regarding explanation and detail! I am interested about jump dynos or the type when you have to fully commit to the catch. Thanks and keep going!
Slopers used to be a nightmare to me but now they are easily my favorite hold! So much to talk about when it comes to slopes so I'll make sure to talk about it more indeed. Thanks for the suggestion. You rock!
I'm also having some trouble with slopers. Would you mind doing some tips for them regarding tall people? I'm 6'4" and sometimes it's hard to get the proper angle on them to get as much friction as possible because a lot of the times my body is higher than others on those holds.
Hey, I like you videos and they are helpful advice, but I don't thing you have one on flow when you climb. Could you make one on how to improve your flow?
This video was great. There is a video I’d like you to do, but it’s strange. There are a couple climbs with dynos and deadpoints at my gym that I can’t get from V2 - V4. I know the moves. I know how to technically do the moves. But I’m afraid that I’m going to miss and fall. It’s silly because there are thick mats I’ve fallen on before. How can I tackle this fear? I imagine it would be really hard to give advice on it if you’ve never felt it.
This is great my friend, we all at some point face the fear and it does effect your performance when climbing. This is such a great topic to talk about I'm definitely doing a future video to share what I did to overcome this. But! I'm not leaving you without a tip to work on at the mean time :) First you need to start small (short/simple dynos) and build up confidence as you get better and used to falling A LOT. Get used to trying and falling a lot... Eventually you won't think so much about the fear of falling and you will commit more on your explosive move/jump and eventually catch the hold. So, if you are currently trying a V4 dyno and afraid to fall and not committing then id suggest to take a step down and work on v2 dynos and really feel the flow/movement from there move up once you feel comfortable. Make ul your own dyno at the gym and progress with farther out holds too. Hope this helps but will definitely cover this in the future. Thanks again and wish you the best! Go kill it!
I haven't succeeded yet. I have a fear of falling. I think that if I really commit to the move and I fall then I'm going to get seriously injured. I also have a fear of heights I'm working on, but these moves are fairly low to the ground dynos.
I can do those no problem. Unfortunately moves like that don't make me anxious at all, so don't really train me out of it. It's a good suggestion though.
The first example isn't because gravity is working against you. Gravity is working against you when your hips are close to the wall as well. It's because you're improving your reach. You can see when you're out from the wall that you can't actually reach the hold properly, but brining yourself in increases your reach which makes getting to the hold a lot easier. It's like travelling along the adjacent instead of the hypotenuse. In actuality, bringing your body close to the wall has "gravity acting on you more", which is why it's more difficult. With the body away from the wall, you're basically just hanging where gravity wants you to, but to pull your body in means fighting against gravity trying to pull you away from the wall by engaging the upper body, core and glutes. It's actually way more difficult with the body in close to the wall, which is why beginners climb with their body away from the wall; it's easier. However, it means they can't reach as high or they need to use more energy to reach high, which is why, like in your example, moving closer to the wall makes it easier. Also, 3:42. Why is your right foot there? There is an identical foothold on the other side of the blue one that is closer to the top hold and would make it easier. You could even bring the right foot up to one of those two red ones up higher. You might have to lose the right hand to do that if you're not flexible enough, but you could do it statically.
Hello fellow climbers, Let me know in the comments any particular climbing move you would like me to cover? Love you guys and thanks for watching!
Wondering if you could expand on specific training exercise. Like developing a stronger toe hook.
Would love a video on hangboarding and other training off the wall.
For sure!
Hey rockentry, I know when climbing having your arms straight is key, but when you are on an overhang, or even upside down, do you keep your arms straight, or bent? Straight would be energy conserving, but bent would allow for an easier transition to the next hold (When upside down).
Great question, This all depends on the climb but you should keep Straight arms as much as possible but most importantly don't forget about body positioning/footwork is a huge part when overhanging. Of course you will have to pull and do other moves between transition but when you can keep arm straight with practice you will know when to keep arms straight and not specially when you're trying to keep your body on a roof climb. Hope this helps! I'll make sure to make a video to cover this. Thank you!
You have probably the most underrated climbing channel on TH-cam. Please keep it up! Love the way your videos flow.
Really appreciate and value each of you! Love to help with what I can, thank you so much!
I strongly agree, Michael!🙌🏼 Keep it up Oswaldo 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Love the level of detail in this video and the chill vibe! A nice thing to watch with some morning coffee :)
Thanks Brent, glad to be part of your chill day my friend.
Just started climbing around a month ago and have taken to it like nothing ive ever done before. Just sent my first v5 last week and a lot of it has to do with using your tutorials to help me progress my technique exponentially faster than just trial and error. Just on the off chance you see this wanted you to know that people really do appreciate the quality work you put in brother, keep it up and thanks for all the help!!
A month and already climbing V5's you crushing it! I feel grateful to be part of your progress and glad my content is helping you on your climbing journey. I really appreciate your support my friend. Much Love!
Love it! One of the few channels I've found that actually gives in-depth movement analysis. Keep em coming
Thank you, will do! :)
Dude I've been loving your videos and finding them very helpful as an enthusiastic beginner. Keep them coming my friend!
Thanks so much for making these videos. Your analysis makes me realize climbing is cerebral and you really have to think about what you're doing; it's not simply strength but technique and strategy
Thank you for this video. We just started learning dynamic climbing with our instructor and it is still a challenge with trusting my foot placement after the move is complete and/or not being efficient from the start. This usually resulted in me slipping off the wall on a higher end 5.9 or low end 5.10. I usually require taking an active rest 1/2 way up the belay wall. Thank you for these tips
Dude - You're so helpful and detailed, and help make things so clear. Thank you so much for this channel
Glad I could help man! and thank you for the support.
5 minutes who changes completely my way to see. Fantastic one more time ! 5 stars thank you so much ! Now I would like to see some more moves in the rock
Glad I can help Paul! It's pretty hot out here BUT I am planning to night climb soon so looking forward to make a video on that :)
ok, I'll be careful, thx
I always struggle with dynamic routes! This video helped a lot☺️
This is a GREAT video like so helpful to see side by side, thank you!!!
The double and triple takes while the VO rolls is great. It helps to absorb what I'm seeing. I'd love to see more crack. I'm currently HORRIBLE at crack. (which is a fantastic challenge)
Hey OS! Thanks for the vid, yours is a really great quality channel regarding explanation and detail! I am interested about jump dynos or the type when you have to fully commit to the catch. Thanks and keep going!
What you do is really awesome. Thank you.
Thank you!
sick dude, nice analysis and side by side comparison. keep doing what you do!
Thank you!
Great control with your feet, mine are always all over the place with anything dynamic. I will try to remember your advice for the next one!
Awesome as always!
Thank you!
Non-consequential nitpick: gravity is always pulling with the same force, what changes with orientation is the torque exerted on your body.
Your videos are great! Love!
slopers...always a nigthmare! would you cover that in a future video?
Slopers used to be a nightmare to me but now they are easily my favorite hold! So much to talk about when it comes to slopes so I'll make sure to talk about it more indeed. Thanks for the suggestion. You rock!
I'm also having some trouble with slopers. Would you mind doing some tips for them regarding tall people? I'm 6'4" and sometimes it's hard to get the proper angle on them to get as much friction as possible because a lot of the times my body is higher than others on those holds.
super great video!! Thanks! Can you post some more dynamic movements?
Excellen Tutorial. Thank you so much!
Thank you for watching!
Hey, I like you videos and they are helpful advice, but I don't thing you have one on flow when you climb. Could you make one on how to improve your flow?
This video was great. There is a video I’d like you to do, but it’s strange.
There are a couple climbs with dynos and deadpoints at my gym that I can’t get from V2 - V4. I know the moves. I know how to technically do the moves. But I’m afraid that I’m going to miss and fall. It’s silly because there are thick mats I’ve fallen on before. How can I tackle this fear? I imagine it would be really hard to give advice on it if you’ve never felt it.
This is great my friend, we all at some point face the fear and it does effect your performance when climbing. This is such a great topic to talk about I'm definitely doing a future video to share what I did to overcome this.
But! I'm not leaving you without a tip to work on at the mean time :)
First you need to start small (short/simple dynos) and build up confidence as you get better and used to falling A LOT. Get used to trying and falling a lot... Eventually you won't think so much about the fear of falling and you will commit more on your explosive move/jump and eventually catch the hold.
So, if you are currently trying a V4 dyno and afraid to fall and not committing then id suggest to take a step down and work on v2 dynos and really feel the flow/movement from there move up once you feel comfortable.
Make ul your own dyno at the gym and progress with farther out holds too.
Hope this helps but will definitely cover this in the future. Thanks again and wish you the best! Go kill it!
Just out of curiosity, have you succeeded in these moves? If yes, I am curious about the reason that makes you fear.
I haven't succeeded yet. I have a fear of falling. I think that if I really commit to the move and I fall then I'm going to get seriously injured. I also have a fear of heights I'm working on, but these moves are fairly low to the ground dynos.
ScrabblePlays Probably you can try easier moves? Like standing on the ground and jump to grab a jug?
I can do those no problem. Unfortunately moves like that don't make me anxious at all, so don't really train me out of it. It's a good suggestion though.
Nice content
Great video again... honestly I try to think of your tips when climbing, lol..
hehehe thats awesome! Think and implement what you've learned my friend =) Thank you!
same!
Mega video
The first example isn't because gravity is working against you. Gravity is working against you when your hips are close to the wall as well. It's because you're improving your reach. You can see when you're out from the wall that you can't actually reach the hold properly, but brining yourself in increases your reach which makes getting to the hold a lot easier. It's like travelling along the adjacent instead of the hypotenuse.
In actuality, bringing your body close to the wall has "gravity acting on you more", which is why it's more difficult. With the body away from the wall, you're basically just hanging where gravity wants you to, but to pull your body in means fighting against gravity trying to pull you away from the wall by engaging the upper body, core and glutes. It's actually way more difficult with the body in close to the wall, which is why beginners climb with their body away from the wall; it's easier. However, it means they can't reach as high or they need to use more energy to reach high, which is why, like in your example, moving closer to the wall makes it easier.
Also, 3:42. Why is your right foot there? There is an identical foothold on the other side of the blue one that is closer to the top hold and would make it easier. You could even bring the right foot up to one of those two red ones up higher. You might have to lose the right hand to do that if you're not flexible enough, but you could do it statically.
4:26 on the right. Please tell me old man is fine :(
Benedictus ? He is fine :)
I just watched "The Pirate's Code, V15 (8C) First Ascent!" on Paul Robinson's channel.. You have more subs than Paul Robinson!! Just sayin' :)
Oh god... V15! paul is crazy strong lol love his work too.