Olympic Climber Alannah Yip Coaches Me on How to Dyno
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 เม.ย. 2023
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In this bouldering technique masterclass, Olympic climber Alannah Yip and Amateur climber Hannah Morris explore the world of dynos and dynamic movement in climbing. As a experienced professional climber with years of experience as a comp climber on the world cup circuit, Alannah has honed her dyno skills and techniques.
In this video, Alannah shares her expertise on dynos, which are dynamic movements in climbing that require a lot of power, speed, and accuracy. She breaks down the different types of dynos, from the classic jump to the paddle dyno, and provides valuable tips on how to execute them flawlessly.
Throughout the session, Alannah also shares her personal experiences and stories of how she has used method to conquer fear of falling and uncertain dynamic movement. She demonstrates various techniques for improving your dyno skills, including how to use momentum, body positioning, and footwork to your advantage.
Whether you're an experienced climber or just starting out, this video is a great coaching resource.
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I hope you enjoy this dynamic masterclass with professional climber and Olympian Alannah Yip! We had a great time filming with her. Unfortunately, some drilling in the background meant I had to fix the audio so at times we sound a little 🤖 but I hope it’s still informative and a good watch!
@@elryt_nyfa Have a look at the comment below from Oana.
I don't know if it's just my impression, but I feel like Hannah is an introvert by default(?), so the fact that she is putting out all these videos and meeting with all these people, is quite impressive and great. Maybe I'm wrong :)
Absolutely I am! I’ve really struggled with social anxiety for most of my life so it can feel really daunting presenting in front of people who I really admire. Doing TH-cam and meeting such a mix of people has really helped with feeling more confident in those settings though! Definitely been a journey! ☺️
@@hannahmorrisbouldering
I totally get that. But it's so great you're putting yourself out there like this and having all this success, it's awesome, keep going!
@@oanasimon1983 thank you! I really appreciate it 🫶
@@hannahmorrisbouldering Climbing does have a ton of psychological benefits atop of the physical ones! I'm happy for you that you can enjoy them too 🙂
@@Dave1507 Climbing is just fantastic for everything except for work and a career - the better you get the more you want to climb and the less you want to do other stuff like work unless you are lucky enough to do a climbing job
Alannah is so nice, I had the pleasure of meeting her and Sean McColl after a national competition. When she was commentating on IFSC comps, I was happy to see that her demeanour translated in that, but also her way to articulate climbing movement and insights in an approachable and analytical way. I see the same thing here in this video and it is really great to watch and follow along. It's not a huge surprise that she has a mechanical engineering degree. Thanks for putting this together, both for your viewers and for Alannah, she deserves to be a bigger name!
Thanks Hannah for all your content for normal climbers!
I mean no insult but it is so great to watch interesting instructional and inspirational videos made by a mortal for other mortals, some times I watch Magnus or the wedge crew or other stuff like that, it’s cool but I often end up thinking ‘ why am I even watching this?” I always end up coming back to your shows and actually learning something! Thanks again💕🙏🏻
😅what will we watch when you start sending in the 8’s😅
You're so welcome! Thanks so much for watching and for your comment - maybe one day I can aspire to be climbing in the 8's but I don't think we have to worry about that for a long time! :D
Alannah is literally the best climber in the world
- a totally unbiased Canadian
Biggest biceps in the world at least
Recently your collabs are amazing Hannah!! thank you for helping us, your videos are fun to watch and very useful for learning❤
Thank you! Really appreciate that and really great to hear you find the videos useful. ☺️
my tired brain read the intro as "Hannah mom's Bouldering"
Haaaaa noooooo 🫣
Yes, I read it the same way and was wondering for a second there :)
My not so tired brain was also confused for a split second!
Maybe it was a teaser of things to come, then.... ;)
Now that's a good idea for a video 😂
Another MASTER of movement on the channel!
🤩🤩
I also struggle with dynamic movement! This video helped me so thank you Hannah! In your last video, you were saying lately you had been struggling to get back into the groove of climbing - I just wanted to say that Motivation struggles are normally a part of climbing- we all go through them! I hope you feel better soon and I just wanted to say you are very inspiring to look up to! I’m glad when I started climbing, I found this channel as it has really helped me with my climbing and brought the climbing community together! You got this HANNAH!!!!!
Ahhh thanks so much Ella that is so kind! I’m really glad you’ve found the videos useful. I’ve had a couple of really fun sessions lately that have really helped to get my psyched so I’m really a lot more motivated which is really nice! Thanks so much for watching and commenting!!🫶
❤️❤️ your welcome- your vids are always great fun to watch!! 😊😊
A lot of great content from Hannah lately! I love it! You are like a bridge that connects us with all the great advice from those pros. It helps a lot to keep it friendly and understandable. Keep up the good work!
Thank you! Lots more to come that I hope you’ll enjoy too ☺️✨
Alannah is great. She is very analytical on the how and why she do things and that's such a valuable skill. Even though she seems to have less experience in sharing those analysis to others than Louis for example, her advices are pure gold. This session is in my top 3 of the best coaching on your channel so far.
(And no Louis doesn't pay me to bring him up in every comment I make ^^)
I got into climbing right before covid and started watching lots of competitions. One sleepless night I saw the one where Alannah qualified. She was so happy celebrating and I was worried that the Olympics probably wouldn't happen. And that's why she's one of the pro climbers I don't forget.
I love your channel. You're real, you let us in on your struggles and goals and successes, and you work on weaknesses like we all should be doing if we want to be better climbers. Your content is excellent, well done, keep it up Hannah!
Thank you so much Craig, I really do appreciate that! ☺️
How on earth do you get all my favorite comp climbers on your channel? I don't understand but I love it nonetheless!
Hahah, who’s next?! 🫶
@@hannahmorrisbouldering Tomoa? :3
@@ArchibaldVonSkip that would be SOMETHING! 📧
I'm struggling with dynos right now too so this is so helpful! Can't wait to try on the wall. Your videos are always fun and really useful!
Thanks for watching and commenting! Hope you have a great next session on dynos!
Loved it ! I have a hard time having a dynamic approach on my first go. When I've done the climb one time and know the holds and feel more confident about the "I can do it" part, then it feels okay to redo it more dynamically. I'm gonna keep in mind the "add dynamic moves to your warmup" part, in hope that it will condition my brain to try more of it !
Yes me too! I’m always so in awe of comp climbers and their ability to commit to a method without having had the opportunity to test it first. It’s so impressive, and something I’d love to get better at. Adding those kinds of moves into a warm up as a drill is definitely such a good way to get your brain into the best of moving dynamically. Thanks for watching and thanks for your comment too 😍
Alannah is so well spoken, thanks for the tips!!
She’s great! Hope you enjoyed the session ☺️
I am doing a climb that has like dynos and this video (especially the rubber band analogy) was really helpful!!
Hannah this video was awesome! super excited to see where this channel goes. Keep up the amazing content!!!
Thank you! Really appreciate the support 🫶
This is so helpful! Definitely trying some of this out today at the gym! I have commitment issues with dynos lol 😅 Thanks for the video Hannah and Alannah!
This is so far my favorite climbing series on TH-cam. I learn so much from them.
I guess it’s helpful because you master movements as well. So it’s so relatable
That’s really great to hear, thanks so much. ☺️
Great video Hannah. When I saw Alannah in the background during the Jenya video I hoped that you'd be doing a video with her.
I have commitment issues with dyno's too. What helps me with the fear of falling is exactly what Alannah mentioned. I think to myself I've fallen off the wall plenty of times so it's really no big deal if I actually go for the commit and fail.
The other thing that helps me is after I've worked out the mechanics as best I can, I try to stop thinking and just let my body move as it wants to. I notice I get stiff if I'm thinking about doing a specific sequence of individual movements while performing them. Just let your instincts take over. It's almost a letting go sensation. For example if you break down your walking motion into it's components and real time think of each individual movement of your joints before allowing them to move, you'll probably end up with a very odd robotic walk. Instead just understand the overview of what you need to do, and let your instincts react to and handle things like balance and uneven floors.
Taking notice of the psychics on my movement is something I've been trying to improve. It's such a balance between thinking just the right amount and being able to switch off your mind just enough!
Thank you so much for this video. Helped me send my dyno yesterday. Didn’t think I could do it ❤
That’s amazing! Congrats on sticking the dyno 🚀
Wow, Allanah is such a good coach!
Agreed, she’s wonderful!
Alannah is such a nice person. She really deserves to be seen, and this session was super interesting. Thanks Hannah :)
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hey ! I used your discount code at the climbing hangar, Liverpool for my birthday …. Had an awesome time and a bargain, so thanks !!!
Oh, happy birthday! Hope you had a fun session and glad you got use out of the half price climb ☺️
Hannah, have you tried to work on dead-pointing more as a progression to dyno-ing. As a shorter climber, I've learned to climb with my legs more and without the same pull power as stronger climbers, often do a little deadpoint jump and I think that movement at least helps me climb more dynamically overall, even if I'm not doing comp style dynos. I think the lower commitment of deadpointing might also help with your fear of catching weird on a bigger dyno.
So cool seeing her in your videos! And your clips of her dynoing are from my home gym, the boiler room in Belleville!
Glad you like them!
Hey Hannah, do you think that you could maybe make a video on climbing confidence and resilience. Like how to climb with a good mindset and what to do if you don’t because that’s something I really struggle with and I have no idea what to do 😂
You’re in luck! We’re filming this month with a very well know climber who is really interested in climbing psychology and works a lot with climbers to overcome fear that’s holding them back! We’re going to cover mindset and mental tactics especially so I think you’ll really like that video ☺️
LOVE THIS COLLAB!!!
lovely video again, Hannah! listening to Alannah explain things feels almost familiar because i've watched so many comps where she's doing commentary (always rooting for her to make finals though!). bookmarked this for when i'm moving up to some higher grades when i might run into more dynamic problems :)
I hope you find it useful! Alannah was lovely and super insightful when breaking down dynamic movement. ☺️🤩
Great video again, thank you, Hannah. And Alannah, of course! I also struggle with dynamic movement a lot but mainly with the running on volumes part. My brain just shuts down and says 'no' to that. If you find someone with some tips for that, that would be awesome :)
Yes absolutely! I really struggle with the fear that I’m going to trip up or get caught up in my own feet when I’m doing those kinds of dynamic moves!
Love these dyno videos hannah! Need all the input I can get coz I still suck at them, aha.
Hope you found it useful 🤩🥳
A familiar voice from the comp commentary haha. And Jenya just waiting for her video in the background
You have got to teach us how you get all these proclimbers to climb with you 😄 Love Alannah, always climbing with a smile and simply enjoying her time on the wall.
I think with B2 you weren't pushing off your left foot a whole lot. If you compare yours to Alannah's jump, she is in a slightly different position that allowed her to jump of both feet.
That sounds about right! I think I was still pulling with my arms more than pushing with my legs!
Alannah is great! It was so insightful to climb with her ☺️
@@hannahmorrisbouldering well the armpulling ís important. It puts you in the position where you can be a superhero and use all the might of your legs to kick off towards that hold.
Actually when you look closely at Alannah's movements there's this tiny little pause between the pulling and kicking. Her kicking off doesn't start in the starting position but at the deadpoint of that initial swing.
I love this in Tomoa's dynos. His pauses at that deadpoint seem to last forever end then boom, he's away.
So pulling first, kicking second. Pretty much every dyno that involves heavy legwork works like that. If you kick too early you simply jump away from the wall, which is something you see in your regular boulderhal all the time.
More videos on Dynamic climbing styles please! ❤❤❤
Alannah is so nice! yay fellow Canadian
Amazing cross over episode, Canada + UK climbing
Glad you enjoyed it!
I know this has nothing to do with climbing, but what are you using to surprises the noise in your lav audio? It’s pretty amazing to hear how much of the low end of the voice you’re maintaining while chopping out so much noise. At first I legit thought you did some ADR replacement 😅
Great video!
Surprisingly great results from the Adobe AI podcast cleaner! Thanks!
What is the sound at 22:03 ? 😂🦆 That cought me really of guard
I had to run the video through an audio fix to remove for some drilling in the background and it had some slightly 🤖🤖🤖 effects on our voices at times! It’s a shame that the audio wasn’t the strongest on this one, but hopefully it was salvaged a little!
@@hannahmorrisbouldering well, all good! I just found it super funny in that moment. 😍 Greetings from Germany! Love your channel
@@hannahmorrisbouldering I was also wondering about that! Weirdly, what sounded a little like a robot saying 'Cat!' coincided with my cat coming through the cat flap... 😸
I had the same caught off guard moment haha
So cool ♥
i love ur videos hannah.
I see videos like this and the technique tips are very cool and all but holy does Alanaah being absolutely jacked help a lot
Team Canada represent!
omg, legends!!!
🤩🤩🤩
what is the sound at 22:03 ??
I love dynos. I am absolutely terrible at them, though, so I am always overjoyed if I accidentally make one. (I'm in my 50s, which makes it all the more unlikely one actually goes.)
They are really satisfying! Such a cool feeling when you stick one ☺️
awe awe awe....😍😍😍
Alannah is so muscular 💪🤯
Alannah is such a badass.
Agreed!
yay
Sorry I don't get this video. At 0:25 you say "Could I, a novice climber with no training history" etc etc. But you have made multiple videos in the last year in which you climb up to V6-V7 and describe yourself as an intermediate climber, and train with loads of very good climbers. ????
This video is a year old. Maybe she starts categorising herself as Intermediate pretty soon after filing this?
Ghost 22:04
Dang, those biceps though
Alannah is kinda ripped.
Hannah should definitely focus more on commitment in dynamic moves, and treat it as serious as part of the daily training, in stead of taking dyno is just a one time technique, which clearly shown in all the videos from her. Kind of disappointed after all the training and lectures from the famous pro climbers, she’s still making not much progress, compared to the actual huge amount of fortune she should be had taken away.
So terrible that she lost all her hair. Poor Alannah.