As someone who's watched several of your collab videos, IMO: this is the first time where your collaborator (Emil) actually understood your climbing well enough to give meaningful and spot-on advice for improvement.
I think you nailed it on the head Emil. I was always wondering why Hannah's style felt a little less efficient on certain climbs despite moving so cleanly and being able to move dynamically. She's clearly capable of both styles at a strong level. It seems to be the pausing and decision making on the wall that's causing more energy usage.
You are a great Coach Emil! I have seen other videos with people coaching Hannah into doing a lot of coordinating type boulders but it was actually really interesting to see your approach. Looks like it will really make a difference in her climbing if she continues to be mindful of it
Two of my favorite climbers together! I used to be very static, but I worked a lot in the last two years to being more dynamic. Getting flow in dynamism is till difficult, but so rewarding! My biggest issue is that we don't have those huge comp-style holds to use in my gym, so it's hard to practice. Loved especially your analysis of Hannah's decision making process and how it impacts her commitment! Lovely video!
Loved the video! You were one of the first climbing channels I followed when I started climbing 10 months ago. While I LOVE your channel and the channels of other super strong climbers, when I found Hannah’s channel it was relieving to see someone at a more similar level to myself, trying hard and learning along the way. Fantastic collab!!
So not only can our man @emil climb, but he is a pretty damn good coach too. I've never seen the "one-arm-brush-a-hold" technique before. Is this a new skill? Should I learn it? 🤣
Haha aww, thanks homie ❤️ now as a coach I can also say that yes, it’s the most valuable climbing technique there is, right up there with handstand push up
I am so impressed by Hannah progress! 🔥 My friends also call me very dynamic climber and I completely agree! I find it so much fun when you need to move through the boulder quickly. You completely concentrate on what you are doing which helps to enter the flow ❤ By the way I think that making your own routes on the wall could help with dynamic climbing, because you start to understand how route setters plan out climbers body movements. I feel like I immediately know were is the next foot hold, just based on my body position and next hold
Emil, I remember really learning this when you commented on Adam ondra’s style. He may not be a dynamic climber in the sense of 360 coordination paddle dynos, but he’s excellent at using momentum to make movements more efficient. Sometimes things like cutting feet to quickly place a foot are actually much more efficient
I was at TCH Reading a few weeks ago and I shied away from that first blue problem (even though it’s well within my grade boundary). I’m more of a “static climber” like Hannah. I won’t get to go back again to climb it but hopefully I can take some of the knowledge and energy from this video with me for the next time I’m in that mindset!
"My brain has a max speed". That I can really relate to; when I go beyond that speed limit everything is like a blur, but it's also really funny how often I successfully complete the sequence nonetheless.
I used to be pretty static. But after an elbow injury I've actually became more dynamic with my left hand moves cuz I need to use the dynamism to reduce my right elbow's load bearing
I am definitely a more static climber. I really struggle with accuracy when going for dynamic moves. Even just deadpoints I can be off a hold by up to 5cm. Sometimes even missing the hold completely. That makes dynamic climbing really low percentage for me as I tend to fail over and over. I understand practice can make my ability to make dynamic moves longer, further and faster. But the accuracy is very difficult to practice I feel. As soon as I start moving my body a bit faster my vision becomes more blured. The hold moves in my visual reference and I need to not just move my arm and body to get to the hold but I also need to adapt that movement with my now moving vision as well. Which while blurry is additionally difficult xD
you might want to train your intuitive musle memory - i forget the exact term for this. you can try it on a system/spray wall or on a simple problem with big holds. you climb the boulder 1 time normal. you climb the boulder, but after every move you go back one move and try the move with closed eyes. that will train your brain to know where your limbs are while not watching at it. like when you walk you dont always have to look where your foot goes... maybe that helps a bit.
There's the pretty common drill of when warming up you can't readjust your feet and hands after placing them on a hold. Maybe that could help with hand eye coordination. It's something I struggle with as well.
Something that akways helps me with dynamic move, is commiting to the move itself, but not the hold. Basically intentionally just not grabing it but overshooting it. Then you realise how close the hold actually is and that always removes a lot of the mental block for me
From my experience, dynamic climbing is better if you can use it as it uses less energy, however on harder stuff dynamic climbing becomes not possible, so it’s good to have both styles recruited depending on the climb
I have been looking for baggy climbing pants for a while now but haven't found anything yet. Those you have on look pretty comfortable, any chance you are willing to share where they are from?
Hahaha the thumbnail! Thanks for a fun session and for showing me the way of the dynamic climber 🎉
As someone who's watched several of your collab videos, IMO: this is the first time where your collaborator (Emil) actually understood your climbing well enough to give meaningful and spot-on advice for improvement.
Everytime I see you climb you are better than the last time! Incredibly impressive, tbh.
Climb on!
Thanks Hannah! Hoping we can meet up again when you’re out travelling 😄
I think you nailed it on the head Emil. I was always wondering why Hannah's style felt a little less efficient on certain climbs despite moving so cleanly and being able to move dynamically. She's clearly capable of both styles at a strong level. It seems to be the pausing and decision making on the wall that's causing more energy usage.
You are a great Coach Emil! I have seen other videos with people coaching Hannah into doing a lot of coordinating type boulders but it was actually really interesting to see your approach. Looks like it will really make a difference in her climbing if she continues to be mindful of it
Cheers mate, thank you! ☺️
Two of my favorite climbers together! I used to be very static, but I worked a lot in the last two years to being more dynamic. Getting flow in dynamism is till difficult, but so rewarding! My biggest issue is that we don't have those huge comp-style holds to use in my gym, so it's hard to practice.
Loved especially your analysis of Hannah's decision making process and how it impacts her commitment! Lovely video!
Loved the video! You were one of the first climbing channels I followed when I started climbing 10 months ago. While I LOVE your channel and the channels of other super strong climbers, when I found Hannah’s channel it was relieving to see someone at a more similar level to myself, trying hard and learning along the way. Fantastic collab!!
Thanks a ton! Good luck with your climbing journey, psyched to hear you’re finding inspiration in our videos ❤
Those were great tips - tack så mycket, Emil!
PS. Just saw the other video on Hanna's channel and you're such a good coach!!
17:10 is the most ridiculous/impressive brushing I've seen 😄
It's so nice to see collabs with channels I follow for quite some time already ^^
Right before I need to go to class, then I just have the excitement to watch it after class😂. Thanks for the video
Such a great video I learned so much thank you both ❤
Emil, you have such a great way of teaching and imparting knowledge. Well done.
So cool to see you two in the same video!
So not only can our man @emil climb, but he is a pretty damn good coach too.
I've never seen the "one-arm-brush-a-hold" technique before. Is this a new skill? Should I learn it? 🤣
Haha aww, thanks homie ❤️ now as a coach I can also say that yes, it’s the most valuable climbing technique there is, right up there with handstand push up
It's the Miyagi stile of teaching climbing. Brush the hold!
@@EmilAbrahamsson i need to learn how to do some handstand push ups now so i can impress my friends with the one-arm-brush-a-hold too
I am so impressed by Hannah progress! 🔥
My friends also call me very dynamic climber and I completely agree! I find it so much fun when you need to move through the boulder quickly. You completely concentrate on what you are doing which helps to enter the flow ❤
By the way I think that making your own routes on the wall could help with dynamic climbing, because you start to understand how route setters plan out climbers body movements. I feel like I immediately know were is the next foot hold, just based on my body position and next hold
Love the collabs and the content overall! Would love to see you with captain cutloose as well!
Wish that too, if I’d stayed just one more day in the UK it probably would’ve happened 😢 next trip!
Emil, I remember really learning this when you commented on Adam ondra’s style. He may not be a dynamic climber in the sense of 360 coordination paddle dynos, but he’s excellent at using momentum to make movements more efficient. Sometimes things like cutting feet to quickly place a foot are actually much more efficient
Great video Emil! You’re a great instructor. Thanks for sharing!
Emil is actuall a very good coach!!
I am here for this! I would love to have a dynamic learning session with this man!!! He is amazing 🥰🤩🥰
I was at TCH Reading a few weeks ago and I shied away from that first blue problem (even though it’s well within my grade boundary). I’m more of a “static climber” like Hannah. I won’t get to go back again to climb it but hopefully I can take some of the knowledge and energy from this video with me for the next time I’m in that mindset!
Omg I climbed the second problem… it’s so weird seeing something I’ve actually climbed in a video!! Anyway, guilty as charged, same as Hannah 😅
such a fantastic video and it could be interesting to see the opposite where a static climber teaches a dynamic climber to climb more statically!
Wow, I'm impressed by your teaching style.👍
"My brain has a max speed". That I can really relate to; when I go beyond that speed limit everything is like a blur, but it's also really funny how often I successfully complete the sequence nonetheless.
“You can tell that my brain definitely has a max speed” Mood, Hannah😂
amazing improvement just focusing on fundamentals
I used to be pretty static. But after an elbow injury I've actually became more dynamic with my left hand moves cuz I need to use the dynamism to reduce my right elbow's load bearing
I learned that I climb exactly like she does… well not exactly, worse, but the style is the same. Great tips 👍
I am definitely a more static climber. I really struggle with accuracy when going for dynamic moves. Even just deadpoints I can be off a hold by up to 5cm. Sometimes even missing the hold completely. That makes dynamic climbing really low percentage for me as I tend to fail over and over.
I understand practice can make my ability to make dynamic moves longer, further and faster. But the accuracy is very difficult to practice I feel. As soon as I start moving my body a bit faster my vision becomes more blured. The hold moves in my visual reference and I need to not just move my arm and body to get to the hold but I also need to adapt that movement with my now moving vision as well. Which while blurry is additionally difficult xD
you might want to train your intuitive musle memory - i forget the exact term for this. you can try it on a system/spray wall or on a simple problem with big holds.
you climb the boulder 1 time normal.
you climb the boulder, but after every move you go back one move and try the move with closed eyes. that will train your brain to know where your limbs are while not watching at it. like when you walk you dont always have to look where your foot goes... maybe that helps a bit.
@@TheValinov good idea
There's the pretty common drill of when warming up you can't readjust your feet and hands after placing them on a hold. Maybe that could help with hand eye coordination. It's something I struggle with as well.
Something that akways helps me with dynamic move, is commiting to the move itself, but not the hold. Basically intentionally just not grabing it but overshooting it. Then you realise how close the hold actually is and that always removes a lot of the mental block for me
Ahh 😮 good thought process will try that
Louis Parkinson says basically this as well. Practice the movement of what you need to do but just ignore the hold. Breaks the move down into parts.
Great collab!
Hannah is such a fast learnerrr
You're a really good coach!!
Really mindful coaching in this video
From my experience, dynamic climbing is better if you can use it as it uses less energy, however on harder stuff dynamic climbing becomes not possible, so it’s good to have both styles recruited depending on the climb
Thanks
Oh thank you! Greatly appreciate it
Whatever works, slow or fast, ascension is the goal…🎉
I feel like Hannah, thank you Emil
both is my favoruite
Where are the pants from brother
It's interesting how often I hear Josh Garrels on this channel
I have been looking for baggy climbing pants for a while now but haven't found anything yet. Those you have on look pretty comfortable, any chance you are willing to share where they are from?
I am 190 cm tall and even most of my dynos are static
Have you done a video on breathing technique while climbing?
And 18:14 is why I’m weary of dynamic climbing - it’s just so easy to get injured.
To be fair it didn’t happen on a dynamic move but on a nasty hold. However you’re not wrong, dynamic moves offer a bit more risk
Du er en ENESTÅENDE FORMIDLER, EMIL!
What do you do if you kind of suck at both but dyno unnecessarily
Continue dynoing, can never get enough dynos out there
Anyone know what pants Emil’s wearing here? Need new ones soon haha.
They're from Uniqlo, I got them at a massive discount, love em. Corduroy pant.. something
Vart är byxorna från? :)
12:19 dab police 🚨