How to wire the sewing machine servo motor to control speed and direction on the Harbor Freight 1x30
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
- How to wire the potentiometer for motor speed and two ways to control direction using switches or relays. Includes an overview and schematics. See • Servo motor on a HF 1x... for an introduction.
Glen, thanks, you did a great explanation. I may end up using the programming control or a 4PDT switch, but very much appreciated your explanation, without it , I may have just run a switch to change the leads to the motor and forgot about the sensor.
Thank you for posting this. It may seem overcomplicated to use relays, but that solves a common issue people have when using this on a CNC machine. Now code can switch direction.
Thank you very much everything is very clear!
Thanks for this detailed video. Could you please share how to run the motor (at fixed speed) using a relay instead of the pedal?
Cool Project buddy Have you got the pinout for the motor ? I would like to get rid of the control box if i can.
If you have the same model, the pin outs are given in documentation section VIII. Let me know if you cannot find this in the docs and I'll scan it for you. I'm not sure you even need the sensor wires? Anybody know?
You can certainly get rid of the control box, but then it gets harder. If you go to Amazon and search (for example) 'STEPPERONLINE CNC Stepper Motor Driver 1.0-4.2A 20-50VDC 1/128 Micro-Step Resolutions for Nema 17 and 23 Stepper Motor" . Look at the last image where it shows that you need a driver and a power supply and some type of controller (raspberry pi or arduino or ...). You can combine the controller and driver using something like "DC 5-30V 4A Stepper Motor Driver Controller Integrated Board Forward/Reverse Pulse Speed Angle Control Module PLC Serial Communication for NEMA 17 23 Mo". Then you can add a power supply. The power supply is tricky because a stepper motor needs a sudden burst of current. The problem is to make sure the specs all match meaning they are compatible. If you are going that route, you can use many motors that are available.
The sewing machine set up is just a cheap way to do all this.
Hi Glen, Great instructional video. I have 2 questions if you don't mind, Can you please explain why you only use 2 legs on the potentiometer versus all three? Also what 1.2K Resistor (wattage size) did you use?
HI Eddie, I started with a straight ladder (+Vcc, Tap, Ground), but the POT was controlling the speed only for a small range from about 60% to 75%. I
took a lot of readings of voltage vs. speed and put them in a spread sheet. Then I could see the curve of input voltage needed and so I found a inverse logarithm circuit which matched the need fairly well. I modeled the circuit and I just played with resistors for the best match. I had the top resistor in the model, but the value get going up so high that it didn't make a difference.
My two cents. you can use the speed control as it came, maybe take off the spring, maybe add a little friction. That's better than the POT. There's a circuit in the control arm that the servo control likes better than the POT, but have fun.
@@1man4JC Thank you so much for me i rather have a POT as just looks so much cleaner excuse my OCD. that is why i asked what resistor wattage size did you use.
@@eddierodriguez316 sorry I forgot about the resistor size. I used very small resistor, I think it was 1/8 watt.
Glen, is it true that everything is at line voltage including the hall effect sensor? Can you please confirm? What did you measure from the 3 connections of the pedal to ground and what kind of voltage is there? Thank you very much!!
@@marcoam2610 Hi, the output from the between the foot pedal leads I measured is about 5 volts and near ground, but the voltage to the building ground is complicated. If the home/business outlet is wired correctly so that the neutral (taller slot) is actually connected to the neutral, and ground and neutral are connected at the first panel and the ground lead is properly connected to the earth, then there's still the issue that neutral is not necessarily ground. The neutral could be a little hot the ground or very hot if there's a open neutral. So you cannot assume neutral is ground. Hopefully the ground plug gives some protection if the building is wired correctly.
What I did was unplug the controller and drain the capacitors, and not have anything outside the plastic box that is electrically connected to the controller. I believe stepper motor control units have high voltage, large capacity capacitors. You can do a PARTIAL drain by running the motor with the unit unplugged or turned off and you'll notice it might run for a few seconds. This doesn't mean the capacitors are completely discharged. I recommend usimg rubber gloves and double check the switch and pot are not electrically connected to any part of the controller. And as I tried to tell people, the best way is still to use the hall effect sensor. Let me know how it goes for you, thanks.
@@1man4JC Thanks a lot for your reply. Idea: Wouldn't a Non-contacting Hall Effect Single Turn Position Sensor be the simplest and most elegant method of replacement?
Check "Non-Contacting Hall Effect Single Turn Position Sensor" mfg part no. '6127V1A180L.5FS'? Suitable? That would be almost plug and play, not?
@@marcoam2610 Hi, that's a great idea! I looked one up on amazon, but it looks like it's linear in relation to the turn. I cannot predict how that will respond. I ended up having to create an inverse logarithm circuit. If it's linear, then most of the control is between about 3 and 4 volts. I can only guess they designed it that way because sewing clothing may require that you start slowly. I still think it's a great idea, I just wanted to share a little info.
Question, are you trying to hook up to a computer? If so I should do a little more investigation about the voltages. I can't imagine they would use an optocoupler.
@@1man4JC I just want to have a circular/cylindrical control element, no computer hook up. I get you point but according to this video, 49E is linear…
th-cam.com/video/pzNvptKR4W8/w-d-xo.html
What about this: Bourns® Model AMS22U Non-Contacting Analog Rotary Position Sensors
@@marcoam2610 I like their products. I used them in engineering projects because of their reliability and resolution. When I look at the one you mentioned, I'm not sure that it produces a resistance. Doesn't it produce a series of pulses?
You could certainly use it with a traditional servo control system. In that case you would need a controller like Arduino or Raspberry Pi .... to interpret the pulses.
I suppose you could send a voltage into the sewing machine controller using a DAC from the microcontroller if so equipped. With the right programming, it might give you a better control, but it sure is a lot of work and money.
i wish you could take a set of side cuttings 7 cut thos ezip ties so i could see it otherwize good stuff
I'm a paraplegic so would like to hold a toogle switch about the size of a key chain to run a sewing machine while sewing with a direcr drive motor
My 3 prong male receptacle plastic housing cracked. I have two prong with red wire and one with blue. Does the blue go in the middle prong?
are those pin connectors on the servo motor controller 2.8mm? Im trying to wire a light to connect to my controller and I was making sure I order the correct size 2 pin connector. the most common one I see that looks like it will fit is 2.8mm female.
Hi Dana. If I understand your question, the controller has a connection for a sewing machine light. The version I have is for the US(and a few other countries): 110 volt, two vertical slots with no ground pin. Here's a picture of what I have: drive.google.com/file/d/1kAua3J9fydtlV5AYDSsVH_InFqUZoAFg/view?usp=share_link
I know vast majority of other countries use power connections with round pin holes. Is that what you're talking about? If so I don't know enough about those type of connectors to really help you since even those vary between countries. Also I'm not sure what power input versions are available from Mophon since Amazon only shows me US versions. I do know there are sewing LED lights for the US 110v system because I have a few.
All the other connections are Molex with about 3.9 mm square hole, and I can't measure the exact pin size because it's deep in the Molex connector but they look to be about 1mm.
FYI: my sewing machine light power is ON even if the controller is OFF. The controller manual says parameter 07 adjusts the LED light brightness but I've never tried it because I'm using it for power to the relays.
Please let me know if I can help any further, blessings to you, Glen
@@1man4JC Thankyou for responding. Yes I’m in the US also and the back of my controller has the same pin connectors that you have on yours. (the white pin connectors) So I was just trying to figure out what size and type of connectors those are so I can soldure the wires to it myself. The light section is a 2 pin connector. I guess I could just order what looks right and hope it fits.
Oh it’s called a molex connector? That helps.
@@Dahna_ You're right, I forgot and the literature says the white two pin connector is the LED connection, my bad. I guess you need something like: search Amazon "Molex Mini Fit Jr 16awg Female Crimp" BUT I'm also not sure if this is the correct size. I don't think you need to solder those but it's certainly more reliable. It's okay to laugh but I've jammed wires into the holes, with something to stabilize them, and it works 90% of the time 😂
@@1man4JC oh wow ok thanks for the tips! im going to just order molex mini connectors female on amazon or somewhere and see if it works. thank God for people like you who share the knowledge on TH-cam .
The user manual explains how to change the direction parameters, no need to use any relays. Besides, the potentiometer should be connected as wiper = yellow, one end = red (this end is CW rotation end, max speed), and other end CCW (min speed)= Black ).
Normally you´d be right about the potentiometer, however in this case the schematic is correct, and kind of clever: by using the 1k2 resistor to connect +5V to the middle lug you omit the variable resistance between the "free" lug and the wiper, essentially forming a voltage divider where one "side" always has the same resistance and the other "side" is variable through pot movement. This will radically change the curve of the potentiometer, which in this use case gives you much better control of motor speed across the movement range of the pot. It works very well, I know because I did the same to my control box today.
I have one of these motors-looks to be exactly the same as yours--same size motor with same green label and same mounting bracket, same power supply with the same style serial number sticker. I believe your motor is just a conventional 3-phase motor. The power supply has 6 driver transistors and that would power 3 coils forward & reverse polarity (each motor coil gets 1-pair of transistors). The yellow-green wire is a motor case ground that is riveted to the motor case and carries no operating current, (it is for static charge dissipation from the running belt when mounted to a wood or plastic mounting point on a sewing machine), leaving the 3 remaining thicker power wires for driving the motor. If that is your actual wiring, you do not need the elaborate relay switching arrangement ... Just switch or reverse any 2 of the 3 power wires with just 1 "DPDT" switch, as is outlined at 9:17 in this video. I have no explanation how that relay switching setup even works at all in your setup. Is your yellow-green wire riveted to your motor case under the motors wire entry plastic cover? Thanks for your moment of attention. John
Hi John, Thanks for sharing your input. Your description sounds correct. I'm pretty sure it's 3 phase stepper motor, but mine also includes 3 hall effect sensors; hence 3 large wires and 3 small ones (plus some other wires: black & ground wires?). I tired just reversing one pair of main wires, but the motor went crazy fwd/rev. Then I found a pair of sensors wires could also be reversed and it ran smoothly. Does that help?
@@1man4JC Edited for correction to my mistake... Yes, reversing power wires + the corresponding sensors would make more sense and require a more complex wiring setup ... that does appear to be what is shown at 7:20 , I completely mis-read the wording in the diagram ... also, supposedly holding the yellow button down for 3 seconds will set the control into reverse on most of these controls, but that requires 3+ seconds, maybe you require a faster switch-over time? ... Thanks for your reply and understanding my mis-understanding ... John
Thanks Glen, If I only want to add a Pot, can I simply wire that to the 3 wire cable that was originally for the speed control lever without modifying any other wires, and if so, would the connection points be the same as you have indicated? Thanks in advance for your help.
Hi Ibrahim, if I'm understanding your question, the answer is yes. The direction switch system and pot are separate systems. You can always use the controller to change direction. Let me know how it goes 😊. Oh and I would also put it in a plastic box and not touch the leads while it's hot just in case there is a hot chassis and the ground and hotwire's are reversed.
@@1man4JC Thanks for your reply Glen, So I had this done to my motor a few years ago, 10k pot wired directly to the 3 wire cable of the speed control lever. Only the guy who did it for me connected all 3 wires to the 3 points on the pot. It worked well for a time but recently it has become really jumpy and the range has reduced almost to only top speed. Could this be a fault with the pot itself ? I tried wiring the pot as you indicated but it would not run. I have a 5k one from my old sherline controller which looks so much more solid than the 10k one I have but you advise not to use 5k? Amazed to have found someone discussing this! thanks so much for sharing and for your replies.
@@ibrahimbatchelder7343 Disclaimer: I've installed just this one unit and spent very little time with it. Maybe someone else can also try to help.
I only experienced jumping when a 3 phase sensor was not connected properly but I'm guessing a faulty pot would do the same. Because something changed, If it were mine, I would first see if jumpy/range problem is in the machine (either controller or sensors) or the pot. I would do this by checking the resistance of the pot or input voltage as you turn it and see it goes open circuit sometimes. You could also check the controller by re-connecting the original foot pedal sensor which is actually a hall effect sensor circuit and see how it runs.
Being crazy enough to try a pot, I ran a test where I wrote down the input voltage vs speed and was surprised to find that the control range is mostly between 3 to 4 volts. The motor would not run at all below about 2.5 volts and over 4 volts didn't make it go faster. (Please be careful with this. One user correctly pointed out that the controller could be a hot chassis and also energy is stored in some large capacitors, so you might want to use rubber gloves.)
In my experience, pots can be a pain. When the wiper disconnects due to dirt, loss of springiness, vibration, being pushed/changed or just being cheap, then you have a momentary open circuit. That might cause it to be jumpy. If you really want to use a pot, all I can say is buy a good one and test it.
Now, which size? I measured the internal resistance at 10K and sure enough the 10K pot worked best. My first attempt was to wire the pot directly to the 3 wires (with the variable wire on the wiper which I think was yellow) and it barely worked. So I plotting voltage vs speed and tried various circuit diagrams to match it. I found an inverse log circuit and used a spreadsheet to get the 1.2k resistor value, which worked okay for that particular unit. I had modeled a resistor on the top of the pot, but the resistance calculations went to infinity so I just left it open.
FYI: The controller gives an error code when I start with the pot all the way down, but I make a couple of turns and the error goes away.
I'd love to hear how it goes.
thanks for posting this I am going to use the same motor on a mini lathe, on the potentiometer you mention having some resistors, can you explain how these are wired in and what size they are, also why are they required ? sorry if this is obvious but I'm a technical person not electrical
Hi Richard, that's an interesting idea, to use this on the mini lathe. I'd love to hear how it turns out (pun intended). I'm interested if it has enough torque because I just don't know.
If you look at 6:12 in the video you'll see the 1.2K resistor and how it's wired. I think I did say resistors, plural, but there's only one needed, I just remembered it wrong because I did some experiments with two resistors. The pot works okay, in my case, I just have to turn it a little when it first powers up to clear an error.
The resistor is required because the signal that the controller is expecting is not linear. The resistor makes an inverse log function which is close to the input the controller expects.
If you can use the foot arm sensor, it's a better match to the controller. The foot arm sensor has a spring that you can remove and just push the arm back and forth for various speeds.
@@1man4JC ill let you know how it works, torque wise it should be better than the current motor, the idea behind using the potentiometer and reverse switch arrangement was to have the control integrated into the lathe control box, so they are local, the method you use seems ideal, however I will try to use the foot pedal switch initially. Thanks for confirmation on the resistor, it was clearly on the wiring diagram, I just missed it
@@1man4JC I'm not electronics expert so forgive me. You must have a fair amount of electronics understanding to figure this out correctly. How did you determine a 10K pot and a 1.2k resistor?
@@GlennInLaguna It's a good question, but not easy to answer in a short comment (and my memory is...what was the question again). The best control is the one that came with the motor which has integrated circuits and a hall effect sensor and in hind sight I would have just used it. But for a pot -- It looked like the controller internal resistance is 10k which I assume is to keep an open circuit from driving full speed. I recorded measurements of the relationship of input voltage and resulting speed and put that in a spreadsheet with a graph. The graph is highly non-linear -- it doesn't really start controlling the motor until about 3 volts and then maximum speed is at about 4 volts. To make a long story short, I designed a resistor ladder to give an inverse logarithmic output into a 10k load, put the equations in the spread sheet and graphed the results. To do this you need to model the pot as two resistors changing together for each step in the graph. I tried different ladders and sized pots in the equations and the best one was 10k (which isn't a big surprise because the input resistance is 10k). The 1.2k was the closest value calculated to make a reasonable inv-log match. There is no connection on the top of the pot because increasing it toward infinity worked best. You can email me if you want a copy of the spread sheet or I can help further.
Hello, I just wanted to add that I have one of these motors, exact same specs as you have on my home built mini metal lathe and it definitely has enough torque. I have had the lathe for about three years now and it is really good for my small metal projects and parts that i make. I also bought one for a benchtop bandsaw that I bought at a pawn shop and converted it to the servo motor so I could control the speed better to do some metal cutting. There is a copule of videos on my channel about that conversion. I am about finished now with a third sewing machine servo motor I have attached to my WEN benchtop drill press that I also converted to do some milling. Those servo motors are really essential I think for power with a small footprint and the versatility of being able to adjust speed beyond the pulley changes or just the basic one speed of some smaller tools. I wanted to convert the speed sensor from the foot pedal to the pot like you show in your build so thanks for posting that process. I do find that reversing the motor direction is useful, but just so simple by just holding the yellow S button for a few seconds until the little dot appears or disappears for the correct direction.
Wondering if one couldn’t use a 4PDT switch to accomplish the direction switching? Maybe I’m missing something how this type of switch would work?
4 pole reversing drum switch would do the trick
@@chriskucia8348ended up just finding a controller that has single button push and hold to reverse.. oddly I think the one in this video is single press and hold of the S button to reverse so not sure what the point of the switch really is.
I can’t seem to get it to 100rpm. What’s the easiest way?
You could use a switch with 2 channels instead of relay box
Hi ijanster, Yes that would work and be easier. I tried to find one before I began the project but didn't see one. I think it would be called a quad pole double throw switch (4PDT). I did a search just now and actually found one: www.tubesandmore.com/products/switch-footswitch-4pdt-blue-12-pins. Please double check if you choose to use it because I'm not up on switch terminology.
Just an aside for anyone reading this. The switch is not necessary if you don't mind pushing a few buttons on the controller that will change the direction. Also, the POT isn't necessary because you can take off the spring and use the lever arm as is.
@@1man4JC Maybe a rotary cam selector switch?
Total newb, but couldn't you use a 4PDT switch instead of 2 DPDT?
You way overcomplicated this. The controller box that comes with the motor can easily switch directions with one button, the "P" button. It will rotate one direction, but if you press and hold "P" for just 1-2 seconds, you'll see a small red LED either turn on or off and the direction of rotation will reverse from the previous setting.
As for controlling the speed, the original hall effect sensor/speed controller is not based on 10k ohms, but rather it's only 100 ohms of resistance. With that in mind, I used a 100 ohm pot in place of the hall effect sensor and put a couple resistors in line with the yellow and black wires(I'll edit this comment when I have a chance to open mine up and look at the resistors I used). I then have full control of speed from min to max in nice equally spaced degrees of rotation of the pot in 100 rpm increments from about 2-3% all the way up to 95% on the pot's rotation decal. It even keeps the motor from starting if you turn it on and the knob isn't at zero, then you have to rotate to zero and then rotate back to your desired speed.
can i have a diagram please?
On my control, reverse is had by holding the YELLOW down until the tiny indicator in the YELLOW button illuminates or extinguishes.
Did you ever get around to the resistors used on the yellow and ground wire? I'm considering doing the same
hello Glen, can i reach you via email or something? i have some questions
Yes, you can write me at GlenFrancis78@gmail.com