I started out with a clutch motor driving my machine and new I didnt like it at all. So I went onto the ol Ebay and looked around and bought a servo motor kit and although the control it gave was remarkable I took it a step further and bought a much smaller pulley for the motor output shaft. Doing this slowed the machine down to where reliable single stitch at a time control came a reality. That was 13 years ago and not once have I though the change was a mistake. And that linkage issue you had, I use a length of paracord which I simply tied to the speed lever on the motor to the pedal. You dont need a stiff rod to let off, I think the lighter weight gave more crisp foot control with the paracord rope.
I'm an electrician and one of the advantages of the servo motor is the torque at practically zero speed. It would be hard to do with a foot pedal but if you had a better, more sensitive controller, you could slow the rpm down to whatever speed you wanted.
For anyone watching this video, if you got stuck at the 7:40 mark, there's a bracket hugging the motor, held by a pretty long slim bolt and a small nut. By loosing that nut, you can slide the motor left or right. Just remember to tight well after because that bracket is the only thing holding the motor to the base of it.
I think the most important factor to consider would be if the bearings are standard sizes so can be bought at any online bearing seller. That could be really important to know. Odd size bearings would mean it would probably be cheaper when one wore out to throw the machine away and buy another as opposed to paying $5 to $7 for a standard off-the-shelf bearing.
I was in the process of re-setting up an older Juki Sewing machine that used a clutch motor. I was considering the servo motor as a replacement motor. This was very useful. Thank you!
I've recently installed a servo motor with needle positioner on my Pfaff 335-17B cylinder arm machine and in fact hold you partially responsible! I've been doing the bulk of my work on a Juki 5550N which has inbuilt needle positioning, as well as thread cutting. I bought the Pfaff after getting an appetite for making bags from thicker canvas and leather materials where I needed the walking foot. The Juki is still a dream to sew on, and I wanted to replicate that experience on the Pfaff. One issue I had was with fitting the positioning sensor - my machine is an older model and finding the 'meat' on the driven shaft to attach the sensor was difficult. A local company that had experience with older machines was able to help me out and attach it for me, but hitting up a machine shop and having a small adaptor fabricated is also an option. Another thing to be careful of is that your old drive belt will likely not fit due to the reduced size of the motor compared to a clutch motor, but a quick visit to a local auto parts store got me sorted. I measured the new required belt diameter with some string and took it in to find a matching v-belt model. Absolutely love your videos and can't wait to see more. Your channel has helped me find a hobby that I enjoy and gets me out of a funk when the black dog hits. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
That’s really useful. I’m thinking of converting my Singer 20u to a servo motor, to cut down on noise and control speed better. I think you just convinced me! Love the way you own up to the mistakes in the video with the overwrites 😊
Clutch motor most likely came originally with my 226 replaced with servo motor several years ago, replaced that servo last fall something in PC board glitched, of course, no one sells replacement parts. I like the servos, not so much the serviceability.
Never used a clutch motor. But just bought my first industrial and it came with a servo. I'm glad it did because going from home sewing machine to industrial is a big enough learning curve on its own that I'm glad I don't have to fight with the clutch motor while trying not to sew my fingers to the fabric. :)
Great video but I would think they’re an improvement specially for novice like me just got in installing machines about three years ago and I got my first industrial in 2024 and holy mackerel. Is it fast 78 three holy mackerel, can it so so I’d love to try servo motor maybe next year got a whole bunch of boat tops to make
Thank you! Make sure you check out the comments, several people noticed that there is a way to adjust the motor's position without adding extra washers the way I did. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I wish I watched this before I installed a servo on my consew 227. I encountered every single bit of challenge you did. I thought it was my fault that i had so much installation troubles. I had exactly the same issues with the large single motor hanging bolt. I replaced it with a length of sae threaded rod after tapping out the metric hole.
I have a cobra Class 4 and love the servo motor. Zero experience with a clutch motor. I'd like to see servo controllers with a few more parameters. I'd like a torque setting and a ramp time. oh and a analog variable speed 0-10V would be nice. I'm not a fan of the light sensor speed switches not do i like the hall effect control either.
I added a servo motor to my Consew and now can control the speed for short stitching jobs. The clutch motor was just too wild and couldn't go slow at all. I also had to do some tweaking in mounting but not difficult.
Great video and info 👍!! I am swapping out to servo motors on both of my industrials. Quieter and calmer, certainly so with the pulley swap! Thanks for the heads up 👍😀 with Murphy's Law of ,"Universal Fit doesn't always!" 😆😆👌
I've been wanting to get a servo for my industrials. The commercial sewing shop I get my parts from told me to avoid the cheaper Chinese ones because they last a year. I've got a more expensive one on order. I'm a big fan of servo motors, I do enjoy the controllability vs the clutch motor.
dana blouin unsure if there is a correlation between price and durability on these, other than the nickel and dime hardware stuff. I have a consew branded kit and a golden eagle branded kit that have identical motor drivers and identical looking servos in them. I’ve also noted that some of the identically branded kits have different parts in them, it may just be a crap shoot on what you order vs what you get
@@JHorvathCinema I think if I was ordering online then I would agree and probably just get the cheapest one. However, there are a few factors at play for me. First I live overseas where there is no Amazon. At least not in any affordable way with shipping. Locally to shop online we can use Aliexpress and Lazada, both have very weak return policies if there is any issue I would just be stuck with it. The shop I get much of my sewing stuff from supplies a lot of the tailor shops and sewing factories locally and we have a good relationship, so when he suggested one that costs about $180 vs $90 and tells me it will last much longer I'm inclined to trust him since we have been doing business for a few years now. I would love to spend half as much on the motor, but I also don't want it to crap the bed when I am in the middle of a project.
I can comfirm this does work and is a very simple change. I did it in a twin needle machine. Works great. Keep a spare motor though. I dont expect it to last like the clutch motor. These motors are fantastic for heaps of machine workarounds.
I modded my Husqvarna 12 to servo/brushless too, but by means of a smaller Nema 23-size motor. Not cheaper, especially due to how hard it is to find a suitable power supply. But no problem with power despite only being 125W. With a 16mm pulley on it (as measured to center of the belt, not inner of the pulley, because apparently that is a thing), a 3000rpm max speed gives a pretty good spectrum. Slow speed could be slightly slowerstill, but it is still a huge improvement in low-end torque to a brushed motor. High speed is more than i'll ever use, but not by any crazy amount, giving a linear foot pedal good control over it. Fun experiment, but unless size is of utmost concern, go with the solution from the video.
I have on my Consew 206RB5 walking foot the Consew CSM550-1 Sewing Machine Servo Motor, 3450RPM. Works well, about $125. I never run it higher than it's slowest setting, and it's dandy right there.
Looking at that model it appears the servo motor and controller are combined with just a small box coming out to an on/off switch and fuse. Does this model have a outlet to plug the lamp into?
Thanks for your information. I was just wondering how the bracket holding the motor was attached to the motor itself. Perhaps it is possible to loosen some screws and make this bracket slide somewhat in the shaft direction. In this way you can adjust the position of the pulley.
Thanks for the answer. Yes it seemed so, when I looked at it. But from the video it seems that Jason got some problems with this adjustment. That's why I asked.
Sewing Machines in detail very possible some of them are more limited in adjustment, I’ll have to look but on mine I believe the bracket slides and clamps on some features of the extrusion.
Washers for a spacer, what a cheap crap solution. Really, was it so much trouble for the manufacturer to either make the part fit or simply provide a proper spacer? Then there's the itty-bitty question of why? I've been using clutch motors all my working life and I have never had to replace one. These servo's won't last anywhere as long, the lower power consumption is mostly exaggerated (just turn a clutch motor off when not in use and you'll be fine) and if you have a good one, there's not much but a soft humming sound, not something I would call noise. As for speed control, it's pretty easy to adjust a clutch motor (and maybe replace a pulley and lengthen the actuator-arm) to sew as slow and controllable as you want. In any case, I would choose a precision build, high quality German, British or Japanese Clutch motor (not many American motors in Europe, Voltage issues) over a cheaply made Chinese one where the manufacturer can't even be bothered to make the parts fit right.
The cheapest kits come with washers, ive had a few come with aluminum spacers and a few that didn’t need a spacer for proper alignment. It’s kind of the trade off for getting A servo kit for cheap
roan hielkema there’s no way you could know this, but I run a small factory and and have spent a lot of time dealing with the mechanics, electronics, and pneumatics of running such a business. I won’t disagree with anything you are saying, but not everyone is in the same position you are. That’s important I think. For instance, power usage doesn’t really matter for most home or solo makers, but it really matters to me. Ditto for having automatic thread cutters and needle positioners on every machine possible. I don’t have much need for larger motors for the things we produce, but 550w has been perfectly fine for the majority of our machines. I have at least 5 “cheap” servos with over 1000 hours on them and no problems yet except for the cheap mounting rosettes. If you have happened across any of my previous comments, my philosophy has been: anything that gets more people sewing is a good thing. I see a lot of talk about finding the perfect machine or perfect scissors or whatever, and I think it’s important to try to remove as many barriers as possible to getting more people sewing. If you can afford a Mitsubishi servo that’s awesome. If you can sew with flawless control on a clutch, that’s cool. But I think it’s a mistake to dismiss the cheap servos out of hand if you haven’t had any first hand experience. Maybe I’ve just been extremely lucky
I litterly just finished my servo motor install on my 211U this evening. Had the exact same issues you had, even with a different brand. I had to re-use the linkage from the clutch motor, and drill 1 new hole closest to the belt. Now to unlearn all the clutch motor habits that I had.
I've scared myself silly a couple of times; I have a habit of slightly depressing the pedal to release the clutch so I can hand wheel without friction from the belt. If I do that with the servo I usually get a surprise when it suddenly starts sewing lol.
@@thejasonofalltrades Hahaha, did that a few times last night on the start of a run of some flat lay pouches. I also had the habit of holding the hand wheel while starting the clutch motor to dampen the effect of a quick take off in tighter areas. Overall I'm happy with the servo motor but when the servo motor cant seem to pick a constant speed and bounces back and fourth between 5,000 and 6000 rpm it can be frustrating.
Thanks! Make sure you look through the comments - several viewers have pointed out a way to adjust the position of the motor without using the washers the way I did it. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I installed a similar motor on my Nakajima 280L, getting rid of the original clutch motor. Even with the smallest pulley I could build in my machine shop for the clutch motor, it was still too fast for my taste. I installed the smaller of the 2 pulleys that came in the box, as well as the needle sensor. So much better! I'm went into the setup of the controller, lowered my start speed down to the min. (100 motor RPM, Not Stitches per min because of difference in drive pulley to sewing machine pulley, now at 2 to 1 ratio.) So it starts at 50 Stitches per minute and I limited the motor at this point to 1000 RPM (500 Stitches Per Minute) till i get used to it. With the needle sensor, the machine is controllable to 1/2 stitch per peddle press. Touch treadle forward, needle down, 1/2 stitch, rock treadle back, needle up, 1/2 stitch. Adjust the parameters in the motor controller. Amazing what you can do with this motor.
I have a Nakajima 180L and want to replace the clutch motor with a servo motor with needle synchronizer. I’m also looking at changing from the 75 mm to a 45mm pulley (I think) to further slow down the machine. I now have a towel wedged under the presser foot to slow the machine and have more control. Thanks for your suggestions.
I just bought a reliable. Your right the instructions are junk. I figured out how to set my zig zag my self. I'm still trying to figure out how to use the needle controller. lol
Hi! You bring up a good point. I rarely have need to sew particularly slowly (beyond just as slow as the motor will drive the machine at a given speed setting), but I should have demonstrated the various speed settings. I might try to shoot a video soon to take a look at that. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hey Jase , As always ....great video mate ! you may have just convinced me to convert my machines over to servo ... hope all going well with the COVID stuff and life treating you well ... take care mate
Hi Steve! We're good here, and I hope you are as well! I still enjoy using a clutch motor on one of my machines, but it's mostly because I sometimes like doing things the hard way. The servo is undeniably easier to use and better. Thanks for being part of the channel!
Thanks for the great video. The servo motor encoder you didn't use I did some lathe work to make a shaft to connect to my machine but I never liked how it mounted so I just never used it. The leather workers recommend using another drive reduction system so the motor will go slower and last longer and smoother at lower speeds. I have just the motor and mine works fine for me . My servo motor failed and I bought what they called a servo but after taking it apart it was just a variable brush type dc motor. Very simple and works well. In time I will put more gear reduction on it. I wish I tried the gear reduction first to see if I had enough control. My understanding is some leather workers like using just gear speed reduction on a standard clutch motor.
Hi! Within the last year or so (I think, time has been difficult for me to track the last few years 😂) the needle synchronizer failed, but I easily swapped in another. Otherwise the motor has been great. I rotate between quite a few machines, but this one is my workhorse and gets used the most (not daily, but regularly). For the money this motor has been a great purchase for me. I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
I put a servo motor on my industrial machine and I am very happy with it. the ability to slow things down greatly improved the end result. Thank for the video.
Hi! Please help. What did I do wrong, my Juki with servo motor starts running as soon as a I turn it on without even touching the pedal. Thanks for your help and video.
Hi! If you just installed the motor, first I would try unplugging everything and making sure that the right wires are going to the right receptacles. If there are identical receptacles, it's possible that the wire for, say, a light got plugged into the receptacle for the motor, and vice versa. That would have the motor on constantly. Another possibility is the arm that activates the motor when you step on the pedal is stuck somehow in the "on" position. This could be because the arm between the pedal and the motor was adjusted too short, for instance. It could be possible that something is wrong with the motor itself, but I would check those things first. I hope that helps, let me know what you find out!
@@thejasonofalltrades Thanks for your time and attention. Your second suggestion worked!! I am very grateful for your help. Congratulations on your channel, very helpful. Thanks again.
I bought a consew server motor for my consew 206rb industrial sewing machine. The cost was just over 100 bucks. It is absolutely great, it is quiet, and easy to control unlike the previous monstrous motor that was loud and impossible to control. I doubt there is a person out there who could possible afford the 100 bucks who wouldn't be thrilled in making the change over.
I mounted my motor (Consew Premier 1001) on the bracket and I was left with two small spring washers. I studied the one page diagram and I had all of the nuts, bolts, and washers accounted for. 🙄🤔 I hope it works.😳😐
I have a Consew 210 which would not go slow, it just took off like a rocket as soon i touch the tread. I took the clutch mechanism off the motor and lightly sanded the flywheel and deglaze the cork clutch plate with a copper wire brush then blow any dust off, put it back together and it will go as slow as you want without losing any high speed. Didn't cost a cent to do.
Great video. I put the exact same motor on a Singer 31 and had the same issues. Instead of adding washers I moved the motor in the mount my loosening the Allen head bolt that clamps to the motor. Had the same issue with the Foot/treadle plate being too heavy, so I added a piece of bungy cord up to the frame. Same issue another commenter used a screen door spring. Good idea. The only issue I have with servo motors was on a Consew 226R e rubber belt inside from the top shaft to the bottom shaft had a set and would move the needle ad cause a jam. The old motor has a break that keeps that from happening. Other an that I love the servoes for the control. When doing repairs you often don't need speed but the ability to just make a couple stitches in a tight spot. Thumbs up, keep up the great videos. Can't wait for the needle down attachment video.
Another commenter alerted me to the fact that I could have moved the motor the way you did. I may go back and try that. Thanks for watching and commenting!
The servo motor is a big improvement over the old clutch motor but I am disappointed the Consew CMS 1000 can only slow to a min of 500 RPMs, even though the Consew website says 0-4200 RPMs. I can not do a single stitch at a time. But 500 RPMs is better than the high speed clutch motor setup.
Looks good Jason!! I added a spring (like a short screen door spring) from the back of my pedal to the rear horz cross bar. It helps out more than I can say. I do have a lead foot. 😁 I have my setting Max set to 1000 rpm. 4000 is off the hook. 🤣. I can not sew as slow with a clutch motor as my servo. I did miss the back-pedal brake of the clutch at first, but don't even notice it now.
Hey Jason, If you loosen the allen screw holding the motor to the motor bracket you can slide the motor over and make up the room without all the washers.
Thanks Ken! This has been pointed out to me, and I plan to make that adjustment. I guess I could have used instructions after all! Thanks for the help!
Thank you - very interesting. Just bought my first such machine (Consew 226) that comes with a clutch motor and will be looking to upgrade to a servo motor when funds allow. Thanks again, lots of valuable information
Good job on the video! Clutch motors are not to bad if you have the clutch set right on them. However servo motors are nicer because of very precise control. I have a TechSew 5100 (like a Juki 441) with a servo motor and it’s great because of the very heavy work it can do. My recently acquired Singer 211U566A has the old clutch motor and it’s ok except for the slow predictable control and when it’s on it is always drawing power and making noise. This one will be getting upgraded to a servo motor too. Big Duck Canvas are good people. Cheers from Canada.
I am not a fan of the servo brush less motor with computer, they are not design in my opinion heavy duty design enough to last, I don`t know if they just cant deal with heat build up running slow speed or some like that, I personally kept my clutch motor and reduced speed with pulleys , This also allowed the clutch motor to run at its normal speed so no heat build up and no loss of torque, When you reduce a motor of its speed they usually reduce the current and this reduces its torque on thicker material like leather,it also is a opportunity for heat build up I have several types of machines some old industrial leather and canvas workers like 7-33 or 132k6 and 45k1 and even a shoe patcher 29k-4 and some not as old with servo motors,like put on them 307G2 or 211G151 and 331K1 I keep the old clutch motors on the older industrial machines at least 70 years old motors and never had issue, Where the servo motors had lasted 2 years on some and failure on the computer box, So don`t get rid of your clutch motor he will out last any modern motor at the moment, just need replacing the clutch pad from time to time, There are modern motors with brushes with a speed dial , But if you really want a good way to have power and last is a three phase brush less motor with a converter reducer to the electric , The trouble with brush less they were never design to be speed reducers due to heat build up in the winding,s, So that`s why people recommend three phase brush less with converter, I don`t know if enough info or research have being done on servo motors for sewing machines long term,usage I think they went with them due to there quietness and slower start up pace with a turn of a dial, But the price reflects the product!! I would favor the brush modern motor with no computer just a speed control dial that is built into them, if I had to go with a more modern type, But that`s just my opinion, Clutch motors are down to foot and ankle mussel memory the more you use the easier to control,
I had same issues fitting my servo on my singer 491d, had to move mount and re drill new mounting holes to get belt on right, Also made a mount for the needle postioner... all great now
Snap - I'm here because I've just been given a decrepit Singer 491 D300GA (240V - Brisbane, AU) to play with and restore. My first job though is replacing very warped table top. Wondering about rigging the new table top to fit both motors, side-by-side to offer choice of which to use by just changing over the drive belt - and perhaps a toggle switch to define master current to either motor A or B. LOL
I found my new servo motor to be strong and efficient for the work I’m doing. I had no trouble rigging it up to my Mitsubishi industrial machine. It slotted straight in. I did have to buy a smaller gannet though. Then it sat around for4 months being useless till I could find someone with the knowledge to sinc it in with code to make it work. However He did this by guiding me over the phone, so if I need it again I’m in trouble. He’s now retired. 😩
Just got the same/similar and am installing it on chinese leather shoe patch cheapy. Just wanted to point out on the belt alignment issue is that aside from washers you can loosen the bracket that holds the motor and shift the motor on the bracket giving more adjustment and if I read correctly can set a max rpm I hope
My 1964 year clutch motor lasted up till 2017 year, i was moving work shop and a dropped the motor and broke a cast, so i had to buy new, servo motors are rubbish a 7 class singer needs clutch motors to make needle heat up slowly as we so 15mm
You didn’t need to add washers to align the pulleys. Loosen the Allen head bolt that tightens the bracket on the motor body. That will allow the motor to slide across.
I think the lowest speed I see is quite high. Can the motor run slower, or do it jump up to the speed I see as lowest speed? Can you estimate the lowest RPM of the motor?
I haven't played around with the speed settings on mine yet. It is quite controllable at low speeds, but the transition from slow speed to ever-so-slightly faster isn't seamless - there is a bit of a "jump" up in speed. Overall, I find it to be easier to control the speed than on my clutch motor, but almost entirely at the VERY lowest speeds. I think getting a clutch started slowly and smoothly is where most people struggle, and is where a servo has the most advantage. I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
I have basically the same machine and love the servo motor. I installed a speed reducer pulley and that helped with both slowing the machine down but, allowing the servo to operate in it’s higher torque range.
I’m thinking of getting one. I have a Brother DB2 B755-3 oldie. I inherited from my mom. It is so fast. 4000 spm. I have reduced to the smallest pulley I can find, messed around with my foot petal. Watched so many videos to see what else could be done. I’m trying to make hand bags and you just can’t do small intricate sewing on vinyl or really anything. Strap holders, it runs right off them and it’s hard to maintain a straight seam. So yeah. Instead of pay $1500. + for another machine, I think this is the way to go. Thanks so much.
I removed my clutch motor from my singer 281-1 it was the original and was way to fast I took machine off and rolled the table over on its side and placed a mat down so the motor on that mug
I have one flatbed with a servo, one flatbed with a clutch and one cylinder arm with servo, needle positioner and a reducer. I primarily sew leather so the reducer is nice with the servo to increase torque and allow for very slow sewing. The downside is it can be too slow. If I sew a belt or strap, I find myself needing to up the speed on the controller which loses the accuracy in the foot pedal to some degree. I started on a clutch motor and find I prefer it over servos. I serviced my clutch motor by sanding the cork to a fresh surface then adding a bit of lithium grease to promote slipping which I find makes the clutch easier to control. My clutch motor runs around 1750 RPM for reference. A nice modification is to reduce the pulley diameter on the motor to lower the speed at the machine. Some people will even put a larger pulley/handwheel on the machine as well. On a side note, I disconnected the needle positioner on the cylinder arm, I find it handy but also a little weird to use depending on the RPM range you set; it doesn't seem very linear with the RPM settings.
Omg that sewing by it self is happening to me. Installed yesterday. Thank you, but both ends of my Pitman rods have ball ends, so I going to fiddle now. Thanks
@@geoffowler8065 Why do you think you need pulley? In fact you don't. You can program the motor to go slower (less rpm), that's what that big box is there for!!!
Definitely check out some of the suggestions in the comments, there are some things I should have done differently (although my motor is still mounted this way and working perfectly). I also have a follow-up video that discusses the needle positioner, there's a link to another person's video that you should see. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I replaced clutch motors on a Juki LU563 and a Juki 442 cylinder arm with servo motors, I am very pleased with the control I can have, and the torque at low speed. There was minimum alteration on the mount to install the new parts. I don't have needle positioners yet, but that's ok for now. There is no question for me that the servo motors are far superior to the clutch motors. Try selling a clutch motor!
I like the servo motor that is like the one you have. I was hoping to get a wider range of speed. I have tope speed of 600. The motor starts out nice and slow then jumps up a bit with more pedal pressure then leaps to 600 (if you call that leaping). I was hoping for a smoother rpm curve. Still learning the set up I guess. A thought...Maybe more detail on the programming you did on the controller would be nice. But thanks for putting yourself out there for us fledglings to learn. all the best neal sw fla
Thanks Neal! I actually didn't do any programming at all, just turned it on and started sewing. I think the "jumps" in speed is a consequence of these cheaper motors. The Sailrite Workhorse motor I have is noticeably smoother in transitioning through speeds, apparently it has more windings or something (I am pretty ignorant of electric motor workings). When compared to a clutch motor, I would say that even with the jumps in speed, the change in speed is more predictable with the servo motor. If you need information on setting up the needle postitioner, I linked to a great video that explains that in the follow-up video to this one. I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
Awesome! Make sure you check the comments out, several commenters provided some correction on the way I mounted this motor (although it's still mounted the same way and working great!). Enjoy your 111, I have a Consew 225 (111 clone) and love it as well. Thanks for watching!
يمكن تعديل الدواسة من داخل حجرة الذراع المتحرك، تقوم بضبط المغناطيس المقابل للحساس، بحيث يتوقف المحرك، ولا تنسى ان تختبر رفع الابرة بعد ذلك، تأكد من أنها ترتفع عند ارجاع الدواسة للخلف
I haven’t used one yet but from what I have discovered new models come with servo motors. One industrial sewing machine business said clutch motors are obsolete and that no one should buy even a used machine with a clutch motor. I have four industrial sewing machines and I’m going to replace all the motors on each one.
I've seen some new machines still equipped with clutch motors, but I think they are becoming obsolete. I disagree with the statement that "no one should buy even a used machine with a clutch motor," though. Clutch motors are incredibly reliable, fairly easily serviceable, and they work well. Learning to control a clutch motor can lead to better mastery of running an industrial sewing machine (sort of like learning to drive in a car with manual transmission). Servo motors are pretty cheap, so if one buys a machine with a clutch motor, it's pretty easy to change to a servo later. I'm running one servo and one clutch machine, and I enjoy using the clutch motor from time to time. It almost certainly will get a servo motor one day, but I'm in no hurry. If you put servos on all of your machines, I'd recommend keeping at least one clutch motor on hand. If you "let the smoke out" of a servo motor, at least you can bolt up the clutch motor to finish the job! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Installed a jack servo on to my singer 20u and it tamed the beast..mind you I'm an novice at this game but liked the 20u that much I had no alternative as my leg was getting sore trying to feather the pedal.. Cheers Stevie.
Nice! My 20U was really fast, and a servo would have been a great mod for it. If I ever get another one, I'll probably put a servo on it. Thanks for watching and commenting!
That's actually a cap for a chimney that was fabricated by my father-in-law. I'm thinking of converting it into a large light fixture at some point. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I'm actually just now starting to learn how to use a Juki machine with a similar setup. I have NO IDEA what I'm doing. I plan to do some basic marine canvas and vinyl work. Every time I look at the machine I get overwhelmed with all the parts, switches, accessories and doo-hickies. 😅 I'm a boat & car mechanic with extensive knowledge of most things mechanical but this machine honestly has me concerned that I may not be able to figure it out😮.
Don't sweat it, I had no idea what I was doing when I started sewing, and now 10 years later I pretty much still don't! But I've made some killer stuff in the process :) You'll probably be surprised at how quickly things start making sense, especially with your mechanical background. Some industrial machines have more features than others. Feel free to send me an email at the jason of all trades @ gmail . com (remove the spaces) if you're too bewildered, and maybe I can point you in the right direction.
Hi jason. This video is great btw. I need to change my clutch motors for the servo motor, but I heard you mentioned your mentor had bought one f the same as the video, it didn’t last so he got other ones and fitted them. What model is the one they bought? If you can let me know that would be much appreciated. My concern is that I have these machines used 8 hours a day for 6-7 days a week and really need something really robust and that would do my work. Thanks mate. And thanks for uploading the video, very helpful.
Hi, I am SO sorry for taking so long to reply! I haven't had contact with the person I worked for who made that statement for several years now, and I have no idea what motors he purchased. Personally, I would be quite comfortable running the motor from this video (still in use) full-time. At worst, you might have to replace one now and then. I honestly don't know of any truly high-quality motors (I'm not saying they don't exist, I just don't know anything about them) on the market, with the possible exception of the Sailrite Workhorse. I love Sailrite, and I think that is a great motor, but unfortunately it is NOT plug-and-play compatible with a needle synchronizer (it can be made to work, but requires a little more effort, from what I understand). If it makes financial sense, it might be worth buying two of the inexpensive motors and just keep one as a spare so you aren't down for long if your motor breaks, but honestly I think the motor I have would be fine running full time. I hope that helps, and again, my apologies for the delay!
I was looking to replace my ( clutch ) motor, on my 25 year old Pfaff flatbed machine, is this possible also to replace on a leather flat bed? because am hoping to start my motorcycle jacket line in the year. Thanks for the info video, and a big Salute to you from the UK
Hi! I think this motor would be fine for the kinds of leather you would be using for a jacket. When I worked for a leather bag manufacturer we used similar motors. Good luck, making leather jackets sounds challenging! When you're ready to go public, I'd love to see your stuff!
@@thejasonofalltrades Am a artist, and creature of my own products, like your self, came from a mother and farther, who were the same certain things in life can knock you off your path, am just trying to get back on it. so seeing your video was one of the things, that am looking to do to some of my older machines, because the flat walking foot machine that am ordering will come with a servo motor, and my 30yr old Pfaff needs a up date, and your awesome video put me, back on getting up and doing it, Amazon has some online, in the UK So thanks and I have subbed to your site page on TH-cam, so when am up and running, I would be glad to show you what I produce Thanks again for your awesome info video tutorial.
Hi! Sorry for the delay in responding! There are three questions that come to mind when thinking about installing an industrial motor (servo or otherwise) to a household machine. One, where will you attach the belt? Many vintage machines were belt-driven with the belt attaching externally to the hand wheel, making converting to being driven by an industrial motor more feasible (just route the belt through the table as normal on an industrial machine). One might need to change the hand wheel or use a different size belt to make it work, depending on the machine, motor and belt. Newer machines may have the belt pulley located within the body of the machine, or may be direct-driven with no belt (possibly other situations exist?). In this case, you would have to figure out a way to attach a different hand wheel that includes a pulley for the belt, and make sure the interface between that hand wheel and the machine's shaft(s) is sound enough to manage the torque of the motor. Second, how will you attach the machine to the table? The machine will need to be secure so that the belt can transfer the power of the motor to the machine. A vintage machine can be mounted via traditional or industrial hinges, one would just need a table with the correct cutout and appropriately spaced hinge points (for example, Sailrite's industrial-style table for Ultrafeed machines works with many old Singer machines and others). Newer machines like the Janome you mention don't appear to have the same hinge attachment points, as far as I am aware. The third question is can the machine handle the extra power? (In other words, SHOULD you connect it to an industrial motor?) Many newer sewing machines have some plastic/nylon/composite gears, for instance, and it is at least possible that these might not be able to withstand the forces imposed upon them by an industrial motor. Industrial motors can also greatly increase the speed of the machine, which could lead to breakages when, for example, the machine fails to feed over a thick seam, quickly builds a mass of stitches that causes the needle to deflect, possibly breaking a needle or other component. I have seen many examples of (particularly older) household sewing machines connected to industrial motors. I personally don't see a good reason to do it. If you truly need the power and speed of an industrial motor, get the industrial machine that was made for that purpose. If you don't need an industrial machine, then I don't see any real benefit to powering a household machine with an industrial motor (other than our desire to "hot rod" our toys, an impulse I totally get lol!). For something like the Janome HD3000, I think you would be spending a lot of time and money to make it work, and likely just end up breaking your machine at some point. I hope that helps! Thanks for watching!
I changed my clutch motor to the sevro motor but now my chain stitch is very tight and winding around the nipple making the stitches fuzzy and crappy looking. What am I doing wrong?
Hi! I am not a mechanic, but I can't think of any reason why changing the motor would have any effect on the machine's sewing. I would recommend disconnecting the belt from the machine and try hand-wheeling it to see if you get the same problems. If you do, the motor has nothing to do with it. If the problem only occurs with the motor, is the motor significantly faster or more powerful than the clutch motor you replaced? (I would be very surprised if it were.) At the very least, I suggest completely unthreading the machine (top and bottom) and re-threading it. Let me know what you find, and good luck!
Have you tried the generic servo motor in the Thompson machine? I got a Thompson PW400 and I need seed reduce and more control but I'm on a budget so sailrite option are kind of the table at the moment
Hi! I no longer own my Thompson machines, and never connected them to any other motor besides the Sailrite. Honestly, the WorkerB motor from Sailrite has made attaching an industrial servo motor to these machines just seem illogical. The slow speed power and control is without equal, and you don't lose the portability of the machine. If you haven't bought a servo motor yet, I would strongly urge you to consider the WorkerB, it's really the way to go on these machines. If you already own a servo motor, it should power that machine just fine. I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
Hi, I'm not an expert, but I would check to see that the linkage is still connecting the pedal to the motor controller, and that the wires connecting the controller to the motor are still connected. If you have the manual for your motor, check the "troubleshooting" section for other ideas. If everything is connected, my wild guess would be a problem with the controller, not the motor itself, but I am truly guessing. If you figure it out, let us know. Good luck!
Thank you soooooo much. I purchased one just like this. Thank you for showing the close up shots. I was able to pause your video and put the motor together and was not left with any extra parts. Great job. A million thanks.
Is that not the brushless motor . There are 3 motors for industrial machines the clutch motor , servo motor and brushless motor the one you installed is the brushless motor . The servo motor is the brushed motor
You might know more about this than I do, I'm certainly not an electric motor expert. It was labelled as a "servo motor" when I bought it. My limited understanding is that the "servo" part is completely separate from whether the motor is brushless or not. In other words, one could have a "servo motor" that uses a brushed motor OR a brushless motor. I welcome any corrections or additional information on the topic, though!
Does the servo motor have a reverse function? Have a clutch motor now with no reverse that has reached the end of its life, I think. Not sure if I want to rebuild it or get a servo
Hi! On sewing machines, reverse has nothing to do with the motor; the motor ALWAYS spins in the same direction, and importantly, the hand wheel/balance wheel on the machine ALWAYS rotates in the same direction. Reverse is accomplished in the mechanism connecting the machine's feed dogs to the main shaft of the machine, so a sewing machine that does not have reverse cannot have reverse added to it. Running the motor in the other direction would likely cause the machine to go out of timing, and would not cause it to sew in the opposite direction. Electric motors that have the ability to run in both directions are to allow the motor to be mounted where it is needed for a particular application. A servo motor is an awesome upgrade from a clutch motor, though! I personally wouldn't invest time or money into repairing/rebuilding a clutch motor at this point. I hope that helps, thanks for the question, and thanks for watching!
Great job sorting through that. I have a similar motor that I bought on Aliexpress, but the 2 halves of the motor had already been assembled beforehand, so I didn't run into the same issue as you did. The video is on my channel is you'd like to compare. I'm quite pleased with mine, honestly, especially with the silence and the variable speed.
Hi! I'm still here, and yes, I still use this motor on this machine all the time. I have a large number of machines, so this isn't in use on a daily basis, but this machine is the workhorse of my collection and definitely gets the most use. So far I have no complaints about this motor. Incidentally, I still haven't changed the questionable way I mounted it in this video, but several people pointed out that there are screws attaching the bracket to the "fins" on the motor that will allow me to adjust its position instead of using all the washers I used. Thanks for the question, and thanks for watching!
Hi! I usually just plug my lamp into a regular outlet. I sometimes use the lamp when I'm not actively sewing, and may not want the motor switched on (maybe some motors are different, but the ones I have used have to be turned on to power the built-in outlet, if present). The lamp I use is just a standard desk lamp that clamps to the table, I think I got it from Amazon. I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
Hi! The motor still works great. The needle synchronizer eventually broke, and I replaced it with another without issue. I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
![เปิดบ้าน พี่ตูน Bodyslam หลังใหม่คนแรก ที่ภูเก็ต l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/flFwcmyDQSk/mqdefault.jpg)
I started out with a clutch motor driving my machine and new I didnt like it at all. So I went onto the ol Ebay and looked around and bought a servo motor kit and although the control it gave was remarkable I took it a step further and bought a much smaller pulley for the motor output shaft. Doing this slowed the machine down to where reliable single stitch at a time control came a reality. That was 13 years ago and not once have I though the change was a mistake. And that linkage issue you had, I use a length of paracord which I simply tied to the speed lever on the motor to the pedal. You dont need a stiff rod to let off, I think the lighter weight gave more crisp foot control with the paracord rope.
I'm an electrician and one of the advantages of the servo motor is the torque at practically zero speed. It would be hard to do with a foot pedal but if you had a better, more sensitive controller, you could slow the rpm down to whatever speed you wanted.
For anyone watching this video, if you got stuck at the 7:40 mark, there's a bracket hugging the motor, held by a pretty long slim bolt and a small nut. By loosing that nut, you can slide the motor left or right. Just remember to tight well after because that bracket is the only thing holding the motor to the base of it.
Vast improvement, due to the controllability. The ability to turn the speed down is priceless.
I actually really dig this video. I thought you gave a lot of useful information that lots of your viewers can use!
I think the most important factor to consider would be if the bearings are standard sizes so can be bought at any online bearing seller. That could be really important to know. Odd size bearings would mean it would probably be cheaper when one wore out to throw the machine away and buy another as opposed to paying $5 to $7 for a standard off-the-shelf bearing.
I was in the process of re-setting up an older Juki Sewing machine that used a clutch motor. I was considering the servo motor as a replacement motor. This was very useful. Thank you!
I've recently installed a servo motor with needle positioner on my Pfaff 335-17B cylinder arm machine and in fact hold you partially responsible! I've been doing the bulk of my work on a Juki 5550N which has inbuilt needle positioning, as well as thread cutting. I bought the Pfaff after getting an appetite for making bags from thicker canvas and leather materials where I needed the walking foot. The Juki is still a dream to sew on, and I wanted to replicate that experience on the Pfaff.
One issue I had was with fitting the positioning sensor - my machine is an older model and finding the 'meat' on the driven shaft to attach the sensor was difficult. A local company that had experience with older machines was able to help me out and attach it for me, but hitting up a machine shop and having a small adaptor fabricated is also an option. Another thing to be careful of is that your old drive belt will likely not fit due to the reduced size of the motor compared to a clutch motor, but a quick visit to a local auto parts store got me sorted. I measured the new required belt diameter with some string and took it in to find a matching v-belt model.
Absolutely love your videos and can't wait to see more. Your channel has helped me find a hobby that I enjoy and gets me out of a funk when the black dog hits. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
Thank YOU!
That’s really useful. I’m thinking of converting my Singer 20u to a servo motor, to cut down on noise and control speed better. I think you just convinced me! Love the way you own up to the mistakes in the video with the overwrites 😊
Thanks!
I used to have a 20U, and if I ever get one again, a servo motor is a must!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Clutch motor most likely came originally with my 226 replaced with servo motor several years ago, replaced that servo last fall something in PC board glitched, of course, no one sells replacement parts. I like the servos, not so much the serviceability.
Never used a clutch motor. But just bought my first industrial and it came with a servo. I'm glad it did because going from home sewing machine to industrial is a big enough learning curve on its own that I'm glad I don't have to fight with the clutch motor while trying not to sew my fingers to the fabric. :)
Great video but I would think they’re an improvement specially for novice like me just got in installing machines about three years ago and I got my first industrial in 2024 and holy mackerel. Is it fast 78 three holy mackerel, can it so so I’d love to try servo motor maybe next year got a whole bunch of boat tops to make
This is the clearest servo installation video I've come across.
Thank you!
Make sure you check out the comments, several people noticed that there is a way to adjust the motor's position without adding extra washers the way I did.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
washers prob not needed - the bracket holding the motor can be loosened and slid back/forth and/or repositioned to find optimum placement.
I wish I watched this before I installed a servo on my consew 227. I encountered every single bit of challenge you did. I thought it was my fault that i had so much installation troubles. I had exactly the same issues with the large single motor hanging bolt. I replaced it with a length of sae threaded rod after tapping out the metric hole.
I have a cobra Class 4 and love the servo motor. Zero experience with a clutch motor. I'd like to see servo controllers with a few more parameters. I'd like a torque setting and a ramp time. oh and a analog variable speed 0-10V would be nice. I'm not a fan of the light sensor speed switches not do i like the hall effect control either.
I added a servo motor to my Consew and now can control the speed for short stitching jobs. The clutch motor was just too wild and couldn't go slow at all. I also had to do some tweaking in mounting but not difficult.
Great video and info 👍!! I am swapping out to servo motors on both of my industrials. Quieter and calmer, certainly so with the pulley swap!
Thanks for the heads up 👍😀 with Murphy's Law of ,"Universal Fit doesn't always!" 😆😆👌
I've been wanting to get a servo for my industrials. The commercial sewing shop I get my parts from told me to avoid the cheaper Chinese ones because they last a year. I've got a more expensive one on order. I'm a big fan of servo motors, I do enjoy the controllability vs the clutch motor.
dana blouin unsure if there is a correlation between price and durability on these, other than the nickel and dime hardware stuff. I have a consew branded kit and a golden eagle branded kit that have identical motor drivers and identical looking servos in them. I’ve also noted that some of the identically branded kits have different parts in them, it may just be a crap shoot on what you order vs what you get
@@JHorvathCinema I think if I was ordering online then I would agree and probably just get the cheapest one. However, there are a few factors at play for me. First I live overseas where there is no Amazon. At least not in any affordable way with shipping. Locally to shop online we can use Aliexpress and Lazada, both have very weak return policies if there is any issue I would just be stuck with it. The shop I get much of my sewing stuff from supplies a lot of the tailor shops and sewing factories locally and we have a good relationship, so when he suggested one that costs about $180 vs $90 and tells me it will last much longer I'm inclined to trust him since we have been doing business for a few years now. I would love to spend half as much on the motor, but I also don't want it to crap the bed when I am in the middle of a project.
dana blouin and time your point, an extra $90 is worth it if it means it just works for a long time
I can comfirm this does work and is a very simple change. I did it in a twin needle machine. Works great. Keep a spare motor though. I dont expect it to last like the clutch motor. These motors are fantastic for heaps of machine workarounds.
I modded my Husqvarna 12 to servo/brushless too, but by means of a smaller Nema 23-size motor. Not cheaper, especially due to how hard it is to find a suitable power supply. But no problem with power despite only being 125W. With a 16mm pulley on it (as measured to center of the belt, not inner of the pulley, because apparently that is a thing), a 3000rpm max speed gives a pretty good spectrum. Slow speed could be slightly slowerstill, but it is still a huge improvement in low-end torque to a brushed motor. High speed is more than i'll ever use, but not by any crazy amount, giving a linear foot pedal good control over it. Fun experiment, but unless size is of utmost concern, go with the solution from the video.
I have on my Consew 206RB5 walking foot the Consew CSM550-1 Sewing Machine Servo Motor, 3450RPM. Works well, about $125. I never run it higher than it's slowest setting, and it's dandy right there.
Looking at that model it appears the servo motor and controller are combined with just a small box coming out to an on/off switch and fuse. Does this model have a outlet to plug the lamp into?
Thanks for your information. I was just wondering how the bracket holding the motor was attached to the motor itself. Perhaps it is possible to loosen some screws and make this bracket slide somewhat in the shaft direction. In this way you can adjust the position of the pulley.
Sewing Machines in detail yes, probably about an inch of adjustability in the motor side of the mount
Thanks for the answer. Yes it seemed so, when I looked at it. But from the video it seems that Jason got some problems with this adjustment. That's why I asked.
Sewing Machines in detail very possible some of them are more limited in adjustment, I’ll have to look but on mine I believe the bracket slides and clamps on some features of the extrusion.
Yes, it does appear one can adjust the motor itself on the bracket. Where were you when I went to go buy more washers lol?!?
Washers for a spacer, what a cheap crap solution. Really, was it so much trouble for the manufacturer to either make the part fit or simply provide a proper spacer? Then there's the itty-bitty question of why? I've been using clutch motors all my working life and I have never had to replace one. These servo's won't last anywhere as long, the lower power consumption is mostly exaggerated (just turn a clutch motor off when not in use and you'll be fine) and if you have a good one, there's not much but a soft humming sound, not something I would call noise. As for speed control, it's pretty easy to adjust a clutch motor (and maybe replace a pulley and lengthen the actuator-arm) to sew as slow and controllable as you want. In any case, I would choose a precision build, high quality German, British or Japanese Clutch motor (not many American motors in Europe, Voltage issues) over a cheaply made Chinese one where the manufacturer can't even be bothered to make the parts fit right.
The cheapest kits come with washers, ive had a few come with aluminum spacers and a few that didn’t need a spacer for proper alignment. It’s kind of the trade off for getting A servo kit for cheap
roan hielkema there’s no way you could know this, but I run a small factory and and have spent a lot of time dealing with the mechanics, electronics, and pneumatics of running such a business. I won’t disagree with anything you are saying, but not everyone is in the same position you are. That’s important I think.
For instance, power usage doesn’t really matter for most home or solo makers, but it really matters to me. Ditto for having automatic thread cutters and needle positioners on every machine possible.
I don’t have much need for larger motors for the things we produce, but 550w has been perfectly fine for the majority of our machines.
I have at least 5 “cheap” servos with over 1000 hours on them and no problems yet except for the cheap mounting rosettes.
If you have happened across any of my previous comments, my philosophy has been: anything that gets more people sewing is a good thing.
I see a lot of talk about finding the perfect machine or perfect scissors or whatever, and I think it’s important to try to remove as many barriers as possible to getting more people sewing. If you can afford a Mitsubishi servo that’s awesome. If you can sew with flawless control on a clutch, that’s cool. But I think it’s a mistake to dismiss the cheap servos out of hand if you haven’t had any first hand experience. Maybe I’ve just been extremely lucky
Clearly we are having two different conversations, have a good one!
I litterly just finished my servo motor install on my 211U this evening. Had the exact same issues you had, even with a different brand. I had to re-use the linkage from the clutch motor, and drill 1 new hole closest to the belt.
Now to unlearn all the clutch motor habits that I had.
I've scared myself silly a couple of times; I have a habit of slightly depressing the pedal to release the clutch so I can hand wheel without friction from the belt. If I do that with the servo I usually get a surprise when it suddenly starts sewing lol.
@@thejasonofalltrades
Hahaha, did that a few times last night on the start of a run of some flat lay pouches. I also had the habit of holding the hand wheel while starting the clutch motor to dampen the effect of a quick take off in tighter areas.
Overall I'm happy with the servo motor but when the servo motor cant seem to pick a constant speed and bounces back and fourth between 5,000 and 6000 rpm it can be frustrating.
Thanks for your video! Its giving me the confidence to replace my old motor! 🤞
Thanks!
Make sure you look through the comments - several viewers have pointed out a way to adjust the position of the motor without using the washers the way I did it.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@thejasonofalltrades Several indeed! Hopefully just from replying without reading...
I installed a similar motor on my Nakajima 280L, getting rid of the original clutch motor.
Even with the smallest pulley I could build in my machine shop for the clutch motor, it was still too fast for my taste.
I installed the smaller of the 2 pulleys that came in the box, as well as the needle sensor.
So much better! I'm went into the setup of the controller, lowered my start speed down to the min. (100 motor RPM, Not Stitches per min because of difference in drive pulley to sewing machine pulley, now at 2 to 1 ratio.) So it starts at 50 Stitches per minute and I limited the motor at this point to 1000 RPM (500 Stitches Per Minute) till i get used to it. With the needle sensor, the machine is controllable to 1/2 stitch per peddle press. Touch treadle forward, needle down, 1/2 stitch, rock treadle back, needle up, 1/2 stitch.
Adjust the parameters in the motor controller. Amazing what you can do with this motor.
I have a Nakajima 180L and want to replace the clutch motor with a servo motor with needle synchronizer. I’m also looking at changing from the 75 mm to a 45mm pulley (I think) to further slow down the machine. I now have a towel wedged under the presser foot to slow the machine and have more control. Thanks for your suggestions.
I just bought a reliable. Your right the instructions are junk. I figured out how to set my zig zag my self. I'm still trying to figure out how to use the needle controller. lol
I also use Servo motors inexpensive one, and they are working very well for 1yr now.
thank you for your help. I would have liked to see you reduce speed. the speed you show is way beyond my liking.
Hi!
You bring up a good point. I rarely have need to sew particularly slowly (beyond just as slow as the motor will drive the machine at a given speed setting), but I should have demonstrated the various speed settings. I might try to shoot a video soon to take a look at that.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hey Jase , As always ....great video mate ! you may have just convinced me to convert my machines over to servo ... hope all going well with the COVID stuff and life treating you well ... take care mate
Hi Steve!
We're good here, and I hope you are as well!
I still enjoy using a clutch motor on one of my machines, but it's mostly because I sometimes like doing things the hard way. The servo is undeniably easier to use and better.
Thanks for being part of the channel!
Thanks for the great video. The servo motor encoder you didn't use I did some lathe work to make a shaft to connect to my machine but I never liked how it mounted so I just never used it. The leather workers recommend using another drive reduction system so the motor will go slower and last longer and smoother at lower speeds. I have just the motor and mine works fine for me . My servo motor failed and I bought what they called a servo but after taking it apart it was just a variable brush type dc motor. Very simple and works well. In time I will put more gear reduction on it. I wish I tried the gear reduction first to see if I had enough control. My understanding is some leather workers like using just gear speed reduction on a standard clutch motor.
Now I want a lathe :)
How has this been working for you? long term review?
Hi! Within the last year or so (I think, time has been difficult for me to track the last few years 😂) the needle synchronizer failed, but I easily swapped in another. Otherwise the motor has been great. I rotate between quite a few machines, but this one is my workhorse and gets used the most (not daily, but regularly). For the money this motor has been a great purchase for me.
I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
this motor is good for use,
But don't waste time for repair,
♥️♥️
I put a servo motor on my industrial machine and I am very happy with it. the ability to slow things down greatly improved the end result. Thank for the video.
Remember the U shaped light I told you about for the Ultrafeed? They make them for these machines too, just a bit bigger.
Hi! Please help. What did I do wrong, my Juki with servo motor starts running as soon as a I turn it on without even touching the pedal. Thanks for your help and video.
Hi!
If you just installed the motor, first I would try unplugging everything and making sure that the right wires are going to the right receptacles. If there are identical receptacles, it's possible that the wire for, say, a light got plugged into the receptacle for the motor, and vice versa. That would have the motor on constantly.
Another possibility is the arm that activates the motor when you step on the pedal is stuck somehow in the "on" position. This could be because the arm between the pedal and the motor was adjusted too short, for instance.
It could be possible that something is wrong with the motor itself, but I would check those things first.
I hope that helps, let me know what you find out!
@@thejasonofalltrades Thanks for your time and attention. Your second suggestion worked!! I am very grateful for your help. Congratulations on your channel, very helpful. Thanks again.
I bought a consew server motor for my consew 206rb industrial sewing machine. The cost was just over 100 bucks. It is absolutely great, it is quiet, and easy to control unlike the previous monstrous motor that was loud and impossible to control. I doubt there is a person out there who could possible afford the 100 bucks who wouldn't be thrilled in making the change over.
I mounted my motor (Consew Premier 1001) on the bracket and I was left with two small spring washers. I studied the one page diagram and I had all of the nuts, bolts, and washers accounted for. 🙄🤔 I hope it works.😳😐
Nice! I'm sure it will be fine, enjoy!
nice vid. i just did a swap on a juki serger. servo made it into a sweet machine to work on. go servo if you can.
Saves Electric
I have a Consew 210 which would not go slow, it just took off like a rocket as soon i touch the tread. I took the clutch mechanism off the motor and lightly sanded the flywheel and deglaze the cork clutch plate with a copper wire brush then blow any dust off, put it back together and it will go as slow as you want without losing any high speed. Didn't cost a cent to do.
Great video. I put the exact same motor on a Singer 31 and had the same issues. Instead of adding washers I moved the motor in the mount my loosening the Allen head bolt that clamps to the motor. Had the same issue with the Foot/treadle plate being too heavy, so I added a piece of bungy cord up to the frame. Same issue another commenter used a screen door spring. Good idea. The only issue I have with servo motors was on a Consew 226R e rubber belt inside from the top shaft to the bottom shaft had a set and would move the needle ad cause a jam. The old motor has a break that keeps that from happening. Other an that I love the servoes for the control. When doing repairs you often don't need speed but the ability to just make a couple stitches in a tight spot. Thumbs up, keep up the great videos. Can't wait for the needle down attachment video.
Another commenter alerted me to the fact that I could have moved the motor the way you did. I may go back and try that. Thanks for watching and commenting!
How many pointed this out already? 😂
Sideways adjustment: www.imgur.com/a/1lJf25P
The servo motor is a big improvement over the old clutch motor but I am disappointed the Consew CMS 1000 can only slow to a min of 500 RPMs, even though the Consew website says 0-4200 RPMs. I can not do a single stitch at a time. But 500 RPMs is better than the high speed clutch motor setup.
Looks good Jason!! I added a spring (like a short screen door spring) from the back of my pedal to the rear horz cross bar. It helps out more than I can say. I do have a lead foot. 😁 I have my setting Max set to 1000 rpm. 4000 is off the hook. 🤣. I can not sew as slow with a clutch motor as my servo. I did miss the back-pedal brake of the clutch at first, but don't even notice it now.
I'm going spring shopping :) Thanks for the idea!
Hey Jason, If you loosen the allen screw holding the motor to the motor bracket you can slide the motor over and make up the room without all the washers.
Thanks Ken! This has been pointed out to me, and I plan to make that adjustment. I guess I could have used instructions after all! Thanks for the help!
Machine,281 senger
Wow i love that sound of a horse power motor on a sewing machine
Thank you - very interesting. Just bought my first such machine (Consew 226) that comes with a clutch motor and will be looking to upgrade to a servo motor when funds allow. Thanks again, lots of valuable information
Good job on the video! Clutch motors are not to bad if you have the clutch set right on them. However servo motors are nicer because of very precise control. I have a TechSew 5100 (like a Juki 441) with a servo motor and it’s great because of the very heavy work it can do. My recently acquired Singer 211U566A has the old clutch motor and it’s ok except for the slow predictable control and when it’s on it is always drawing power and making noise. This one will be getting upgraded to a servo motor too. Big Duck Canvas are good people. Cheers from Canada.
Jason, you have been busy lately...nice. I didn't see "needles and threads" on your video idea white board.
It's kind of there - I have plans for a matching fabric to thread to needles video. :)
I am not a fan of the servo brush less motor with computer, they are not design in my opinion heavy duty design enough to last,
I don`t know if they just cant deal with heat build up running slow speed or some like that,
I personally kept my clutch motor and reduced speed with pulleys ,
This also allowed the clutch motor to run at its normal speed so no heat build up and no loss of torque,
When you reduce a motor of its speed they usually reduce the current and this reduces its torque on thicker material like leather,it also is a opportunity for heat build up
I have several types of machines some old industrial leather and canvas workers like 7-33 or 132k6 and 45k1 and even a shoe patcher 29k-4 and some not as old with servo motors,like put on them 307G2 or 211G151 and 331K1
I keep the old clutch motors on the older industrial machines at least 70 years old motors and never had issue,
Where the servo motors had lasted 2 years on some and failure on the computer box,
So don`t get rid of your clutch motor he will out last any modern motor at the moment, just need replacing the clutch pad from time to time,
There are modern motors with brushes with a speed dial ,
But if you really want a good way to have power and last is a three phase brush less motor with a converter reducer to the electric ,
The trouble with brush less they were never design to be speed reducers due to heat build up in the winding,s,
So that`s why people recommend three phase brush less with converter,
I don`t know if enough info or research have being done on servo motors for sewing machines long term,usage I think they went with them due to there quietness and slower start up pace with a turn of a dial,
But the price reflects the product!!
I would favor the brush modern motor with no computer just a speed control dial that is built into them, if I had to go with a more modern type,
But that`s just my opinion,
Clutch motors are down to foot and ankle mussel memory the more you use the easier to control,
I had same issues fitting my servo on my singer 491d, had to move mount and re drill new mounting holes to get belt on right, Also made a mount for the needle postioner... all great now
Snap - I'm here because I've just been given a decrepit Singer 491 D300GA (240V - Brisbane, AU) to play with and restore. My first job though is replacing very warped table top. Wondering about rigging the new table top to fit both motors, side-by-side to offer choice of which to use by just changing over the drive belt - and perhaps a toggle switch to define master current to either motor A or B. LOL
@@seancleary2295 servo every time way more control and change speed at push of a button
I found my new servo motor to be strong and efficient for the work I’m doing. I had no trouble rigging it up to my Mitsubishi industrial machine. It slotted straight in. I did have to buy a smaller gannet though. Then it sat around for4 months being useless till I could find someone with the knowledge to sinc it in with code to make it work. However He did this by guiding me over the phone, so if I need it again I’m in trouble. He’s now retired. 😩
Just got the same/similar and am installing it on chinese leather shoe patch cheapy. Just wanted to point out on the belt alignment issue is that aside from washers you can loosen the bracket that holds the motor and shift the motor on the bracket giving more adjustment and if I read correctly can set a max rpm I hope
My 1964 year clutch motor lasted up till 2017 year, i was moving work shop and a dropped the motor and broke a cast, so i had to buy new, servo motors are rubbish a 7 class singer needs clutch motors to make needle heat up slowly as we so 15mm
You didn’t need to add washers to align the pulleys. Loosen the Allen head bolt that tightens the bracket on the motor body. That will allow the motor to slide across.
Servo is good for control
I think the lowest speed I see is quite high. Can the motor run slower, or do it jump up to the speed I see as lowest speed? Can you estimate the lowest RPM of the motor?
I haven't played around with the speed settings on mine yet. It is quite controllable at low speeds, but the transition from slow speed to ever-so-slightly faster isn't seamless - there is a bit of a "jump" up in speed. Overall, I find it to be easier to control the speed than on my clutch motor, but almost entirely at the VERY lowest speeds. I think getting a clutch started slowly and smoothly is where most people struggle, and is where a servo has the most advantage.
I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
I have basically the same machine and love the servo motor. I installed a speed reducer pulley and that helped with both slowing the machine down but, allowing the servo to operate in it’s higher torque range.
I’m thinking of getting one. I have a Brother DB2 B755-3 oldie. I inherited from my mom. It is so fast. 4000 spm. I have reduced to the smallest pulley I can find, messed around with my foot petal. Watched so many videos to see what else could be done. I’m trying to make hand bags and you just can’t do small intricate sewing on vinyl or really anything. Strap holders, it runs right off them and it’s hard to maintain a straight seam. So yeah. Instead of pay $1500. + for another machine, I think this is the way to go. Thanks so much.
I think you'll be happy with it, I'm still loving this one!
please, the three wires that come out of servo motor u v w , they are connected ... TESTED by buzzer in Multimeter. it is normal
When your machine started running by itself it reminded me of the auto-strafing machine gun in the Breaking Bad finale.
I removed my clutch motor from my singer 281-1 it was the original and was way to fast I took machine off and rolled the table over on its side and placed a mat down so the motor on that mug
Very helpful. I'm considering doing this.
I have one flatbed with a servo, one flatbed with a clutch and one cylinder arm with servo, needle positioner and a reducer. I primarily sew leather so the reducer is nice with the servo to increase torque and allow for very slow sewing. The downside is it can be too slow. If I sew a belt or strap, I find myself needing to up the speed on the controller which loses the accuracy in the foot pedal to some degree. I started on a clutch motor and find I prefer it over servos. I serviced my clutch motor by sanding the cork to a fresh surface then adding a bit of lithium grease to promote slipping which I find makes the clutch easier to control. My clutch motor runs around 1750 RPM for reference. A nice modification is to reduce the pulley diameter on the motor to lower the speed at the machine. Some people will even put a larger pulley/handwheel on the machine as well. On a side note, I disconnected the needle positioner on the cylinder arm, I find it handy but also a little weird to use depending on the RPM range you set; it doesn't seem very linear with the RPM settings.
Rolling stock co
Can you please explain clearly
I have a cylinder bed machine which is too fast.what do I do to reduce the speed
Omg that sewing by it self is happening to me. Installed yesterday. Thank you, but both ends of my Pitman rods have ball ends, so I going to fiddle now. Thanks
Thank you for your alignment suggestions they worked
If you normally sew slooooooowly, I suggest changing that pulley to a 50mm to gain more torque. Boy howdy does it make a difference.
Sean, where’s a good place to get the pulley?
@@geoffowler8065 Why do you think you need pulley? In fact you don't. You can program the motor to go slower (less rpm), that's what that big box is there for!!!
Thanks for doing this video. I’m switching my consew 206rb5 to a servo. Basically there’s no instructions with the new motor.
Definitely check out some of the suggestions in the comments, there are some things I should have done differently (although my motor is still mounted this way and working perfectly). I also have a follow-up video that discusses the needle positioner, there's a link to another person's video that you should see.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
I replaced clutch motors on a Juki LU563 and a Juki 442 cylinder arm with servo motors, I am very pleased with the control I can have, and the torque at low speed. There was minimum alteration on the mount to install the new parts. I don't have needle positioners yet, but that's ok for now. There is no question for me that the servo motors are far superior to the clutch motors. Try selling a clutch motor!
On your Juki 563, do you know if servo motor you installed was 3/4 or 1 HP?
i have consew servo motors on my machines in my upholstery shop love them
I'm having trouble tightening the v belt on my servo motor, I 💖 your videos, they are true to life 👍
I like the servo motor that is like the one you have. I was hoping to get a wider range of speed. I have tope speed of 600. The motor starts out nice and slow then jumps up a bit with more pedal pressure then leaps to 600 (if you call that leaping). I was hoping for a smoother rpm curve. Still learning the set up I guess.
A thought...Maybe more detail on the programming you did on the controller would be nice. But thanks for putting yourself out there for us fledglings to learn.
all the best neal sw fla
Thanks Neal!
I actually didn't do any programming at all, just turned it on and started sewing.
I think the "jumps" in speed is a consequence of these cheaper motors. The Sailrite Workhorse motor I have is noticeably smoother in transitioning through speeds, apparently it has more windings or something (I am pretty ignorant of electric motor workings). When compared to a clutch motor, I would say that even with the jumps in speed, the change in speed is more predictable with the servo motor.
If you need information on setting up the needle postitioner, I linked to a great video that explains that in the follow-up video to this one.
I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
I got my first industrial today. Planning to swap the motor for servo also. It’s a 111w55. This is great video. Thx
Awesome! Make sure you check the comments out, several commenters provided some correction on the way I mounted this motor (although it's still mounted the same way and working great!).
Enjoy your 111, I have a Consew 225 (111 clone) and love it as well.
Thanks for watching!
يمكن تعديل الدواسة من داخل حجرة الذراع المتحرك، تقوم بضبط المغناطيس المقابل للحساس، بحيث يتوقف المحرك،
ولا تنسى ان تختبر رفع الابرة بعد ذلك،
تأكد من أنها ترتفع عند ارجاع الدواسة للخلف
شكرا على المعلومه!
I'm driving 3 1/2 hours tomorrow....to get my first..singer 111 has a servo. Really excited.
Awesome, let us know how it goes!
Wow. I may need your help soon. Thanks for the information
I haven’t used one yet but from what I have discovered new models come with servo motors. One industrial sewing machine business said clutch motors are obsolete and that no one should buy even a used machine with a clutch motor. I have four industrial sewing machines and I’m going to replace all the motors on each one.
I've seen some new machines still equipped with clutch motors, but I think they are becoming obsolete. I disagree with the statement that "no one should buy even a used machine with a clutch motor," though. Clutch motors are incredibly reliable, fairly easily serviceable, and they work well. Learning to control a clutch motor can lead to better mastery of running an industrial sewing machine (sort of like learning to drive in a car with manual transmission). Servo motors are pretty cheap, so if one buys a machine with a clutch motor, it's pretty easy to change to a servo later.
I'm running one servo and one clutch machine, and I enjoy using the clutch motor from time to time. It almost certainly will get a servo motor one day, but I'm in no hurry.
If you put servos on all of your machines, I'd recommend keeping at least one clutch motor on hand. If you "let the smoke out" of a servo motor, at least you can bolt up the clutch motor to finish the job!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Installed a jack servo on to my singer 20u and it tamed the beast..mind you I'm an novice at this game but liked the 20u that much I had no alternative as my leg was getting sore trying to feather the pedal..
Cheers Stevie.
Nice! My 20U was really fast, and a servo would have been a great mod for it. If I ever get another one, I'll probably put a servo on it.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
What is the story with the copper counter tops in the background? I can think of lots of fun possibilities.
That's actually a cap for a chimney that was fabricated by my father-in-law. I'm thinking of converting it into a large light fixture at some point.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
I'm actually just now starting to learn how to use a Juki machine with a similar setup. I have NO IDEA what I'm doing. I plan to do some basic marine canvas and vinyl work. Every time I look at the machine I get overwhelmed with all the parts, switches, accessories and doo-hickies. 😅 I'm a boat & car mechanic with extensive knowledge of most things mechanical but this machine honestly has me concerned that I may not be able to figure it out😮.
Don't sweat it, I had no idea what I was doing when I started sewing, and now 10 years later I pretty much still don't! But I've made some killer stuff in the process :)
You'll probably be surprised at how quickly things start making sense, especially with your mechanical background.
Some industrial machines have more features than others. Feel free to send me an email at
the jason of all trades @ gmail . com (remove the spaces)
if you're too bewildered, and maybe I can point you in the right direction.
like your video's
Hi jason. This video is great btw.
I need to change my clutch motors for the servo motor, but I heard you mentioned your mentor had bought one f the same as the video, it didn’t last so he got other ones and fitted them. What model is the one they bought? If you can let me know that would be much appreciated.
My concern is that I have these machines used 8 hours a day for 6-7 days a week and really need something really robust and that would do my work.
Thanks mate. And thanks for uploading the video, very helpful.
Hi, I am SO sorry for taking so long to reply!
I haven't had contact with the person I worked for who made that statement for several years now, and I have no idea what motors he purchased.
Personally, I would be quite comfortable running the motor from this video (still in use) full-time. At worst, you might have to replace one now and then. I honestly don't know of any truly high-quality motors (I'm not saying they don't exist, I just don't know anything about them) on the market, with the possible exception of the Sailrite Workhorse. I love Sailrite, and I think that is a great motor, but unfortunately it is NOT plug-and-play compatible with a needle synchronizer (it can be made to work, but requires a little more effort, from what I understand).
If it makes financial sense, it might be worth buying two of the inexpensive motors and just keep one as a spare so you aren't down for long if your motor breaks, but honestly I think the motor I have would be fine running full time.
I hope that helps, and again, my apologies for the delay!
I was looking to replace my ( clutch ) motor, on my 25 year old Pfaff flatbed machine, is this possible also to replace
on a leather flat bed? because am hoping to start my motorcycle jacket line in the year.
Thanks for the info video, and a big Salute to you from the UK
Hi!
I think this motor would be fine for the kinds of leather you would be using for a jacket. When I worked for a leather bag manufacturer we used similar motors.
Good luck, making leather jackets sounds challenging! When you're ready to go public, I'd love to see your stuff!
@@thejasonofalltrades Am a artist, and creature of my own products, like your self, came from a mother and farther, who were the same
certain things in life can knock you off your path, am just trying to get back on it.
so seeing your video was one of the things, that am looking to do to some of my older machines, because the flat walking foot machine
that am ordering will come with a servo motor, and my 30yr old Pfaff needs a up date, and your awesome video
put me, back on getting up and doing it, Amazon has some online, in the UK
So thanks and I have subbed to your site page on TH-cam, so when am up and running, I would be glad to show you what I produce
Thanks again for your awesome info video tutorial.
Can a servo motor be mounted to a household machine? Janome hd3000, for example. Much tinkering involved, of course.
Hi!
Sorry for the delay in responding!
There are three questions that come to mind when thinking about installing an industrial motor (servo or otherwise) to a household machine.
One, where will you attach the belt? Many vintage machines were belt-driven with the belt attaching externally to the hand wheel, making converting to being driven by an industrial motor more feasible (just route the belt through the table as normal on an industrial machine). One might need to change the hand wheel or use a different size belt to make it work, depending on the machine, motor and belt. Newer machines may have the belt pulley located within the body of the machine, or may be direct-driven with no belt (possibly other situations exist?). In this case, you would have to figure out a way to attach a different hand wheel that includes a pulley for the belt, and make sure the interface between that hand wheel and the machine's shaft(s) is sound enough to manage the torque of the motor.
Second, how will you attach the machine to the table? The machine will need to be secure so that the belt can transfer the power of the motor to the machine. A vintage machine can be mounted via traditional or industrial hinges, one would just need a table with the correct cutout and appropriately spaced hinge points (for example, Sailrite's industrial-style table for Ultrafeed machines works with many old Singer machines and others). Newer machines like the Janome you mention don't appear to have the same hinge attachment points, as far as I am aware.
The third question is can the machine handle the extra power? (In other words, SHOULD you connect it to an industrial motor?) Many newer sewing machines have some plastic/nylon/composite gears, for instance, and it is at least possible that these might not be able to withstand the forces imposed upon them by an industrial motor. Industrial motors can also greatly increase the speed of the machine, which could lead to breakages when, for example, the machine fails to feed over a thick seam, quickly builds a mass of stitches that causes the needle to deflect, possibly breaking a needle or other component.
I have seen many examples of (particularly older) household sewing machines connected to industrial motors. I personally don't see a good reason to do it. If you truly need the power and speed of an industrial motor, get the industrial machine that was made for that purpose. If you don't need an industrial machine, then I don't see any real benefit to powering a household machine with an industrial motor (other than our desire to "hot rod" our toys, an impulse I totally get lol!).
For something like the Janome HD3000, I think you would be spending a lot of time and money to make it work, and likely just end up breaking your machine at some point.
I hope that helps! Thanks for watching!
Very good info! Am going to buy one! Thanks man!!!!
I changed my clutch motor to the sevro motor but now my chain stitch is very tight and winding around the nipple making the stitches fuzzy and crappy looking. What am I doing wrong?
Hi! I am not a mechanic, but I can't think of any reason why changing the motor would have any effect on the machine's sewing. I would recommend disconnecting the belt from the machine and try hand-wheeling it to see if you get the same problems. If you do, the motor has nothing to do with it. If the problem only occurs with the motor, is the motor significantly faster or more powerful than the clutch motor you replaced? (I would be very surprised if it were.) At the very least, I suggest completely unthreading the machine (top and bottom) and re-threading it.
Let me know what you find, and good luck!
Have you tried the generic servo motor in the Thompson machine? I got a Thompson PW400 and I need seed reduce and more control but I'm on a budget so sailrite option are kind of the table at the moment
Hi!
I no longer own my Thompson machines, and never connected them to any other motor besides the Sailrite. Honestly, the WorkerB motor from Sailrite has made attaching an industrial servo motor to these machines just seem illogical. The slow speed power and control is without equal, and you don't lose the portability of the machine. If you haven't bought a servo motor yet, I would strongly urge you to consider the WorkerB, it's really the way to go on these machines.
If you already own a servo motor, it should power that machine just fine.
I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
What type of banding device do you have on your machine there? And where did you get it from?
It's a 1" swing-away binder from Sailrite.
I have no problem with the clutch motor on my consew 226R-1. Runs great with no control issues.
Hello Sir, is there a solution for a servo motor that the pedal is no longer longer functioning, mine just stopped working
Hi,
I'm not an expert, but I would check to see that the linkage is still connecting the pedal to the motor controller, and that the wires connecting the controller to the motor are still connected. If you have the manual for your motor, check the "troubleshooting" section for other ideas. If everything is connected, my wild guess would be a problem with the controller, not the motor itself, but I am truly guessing.
If you figure it out, let us know. Good luck!
Thank you soooooo much. I purchased one just like this. Thank you for showing the close up shots. I was able to pause your video and put the motor together and was not left with any extra parts. Great job. A million thanks.
You're welcome, I'm glad it helped!
Is that not the brushless motor . There are 3 motors for industrial machines the clutch motor , servo motor and brushless motor the one you installed is the brushless motor . The servo motor is the brushed motor
You might know more about this than I do, I'm certainly not an electric motor expert. It was labelled as a "servo motor" when I bought it. My limited understanding is that the "servo" part is completely separate from whether the motor is brushless or not. In other words, one could have a "servo motor" that uses a brushed motor OR a brushless motor. I welcome any corrections or additional information on the topic, though!
Hi..can you share the link to buy one motor like yours in the video..thank you
www.amazon.com/Industrial-Position-Synchronizer-industrial-machines/dp/B07W96QQ4H/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=sewtco+motor&qid=1615401576&sr=8-1
Does the servo motor have a reverse function? Have a clutch motor now with no reverse that has reached the end of its life, I think. Not sure if I want to rebuild it or get a servo
Hi!
On sewing machines, reverse has nothing to do with the motor; the motor ALWAYS spins in the same direction, and importantly, the hand wheel/balance wheel on the machine ALWAYS rotates in the same direction. Reverse is accomplished in the mechanism connecting the machine's feed dogs to the main shaft of the machine, so a sewing machine that does not have reverse cannot have reverse added to it. Running the motor in the other direction would likely cause the machine to go out of timing, and would not cause it to sew in the opposite direction.
Electric motors that have the ability to run in both directions are to allow the motor to be mounted where it is needed for a particular application.
A servo motor is an awesome upgrade from a clutch motor, though! I personally wouldn't invest time or money into repairing/rebuilding a clutch motor at this point.
I hope that helps, thanks for the question, and thanks for watching!
Great job sorting through that. I have a similar motor that I bought on Aliexpress, but the 2 halves of the motor had already been assembled beforehand, so I didn't run into the same issue as you did. The video is on my channel is you'd like to compare. I'm quite pleased with mine, honestly, especially with the silence and the variable speed.
can you tell me what motor you installed, I am old woman and have to do one by myself.
@@TheNanaweaver This is what I bought. www.aliexpress.com/item/32964686356.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dA3AaBf
very well explained, great help.
It’s 2022, if your still around can u let us know if it’s still installed and working well?
Hi!
I'm still here, and yes, I still use this motor on this machine all the time. I have a large number of machines, so this isn't in use on a daily basis, but this machine is the workhorse of my collection and definitely gets the most use. So far I have no complaints about this motor. Incidentally, I still haven't changed the questionable way I mounted it in this video, but several people pointed out that there are screws attaching the bracket to the "fins" on the motor that will allow me to adjust its position instead of using all the washers I used.
Thanks for the question, and thanks for watching!
Dear sir, how is your light attached? How do you attach lightning to your servo motor power switch
Hi!
I usually just plug my lamp into a regular outlet. I sometimes use the lamp when I'm not actively sewing, and may not want the motor switched on (maybe some motors are different, but the ones I have used have to be turned on to power the built-in outlet, if present). The lamp I use is just a standard desk lamp that clamps to the table, I think I got it from Amazon.
I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
Still working?
Hi!
The motor still works great. The needle synchronizer eventually broke, and I replaced it with another without issue.
I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades thanks for reply