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If you have the same model, the pin outs are given in documentation section VIII. Let me know if you cannot find this in the docs and I'll scan it for you. I'm not sure you even need the sensor wires? Anybody know? You can certainly get rid of the control box, but then it gets harder. If you go to Amazon and search (for example) 'STEPPERONLINE CNC Stepper Motor Driver 1.0-4.2A 20-50VDC 1/128 Micro-Step Resolutions for Nema 17 and 23 Stepper Motor" . Look at the last image where it shows that you need a driver and a power supply and some type of controller (raspberry pi or arduino or ...). You can combine the controller and driver using something like "DC 5-30V 4A Stepper Motor Driver Controller Integrated Board Forward/Reverse Pulse Speed Angle Control Module PLC Serial Communication for NEMA 17 23 Mo". Then you can add a power supply. The power supply is tricky because a stepper motor needs a sudden burst of current. The problem is to make sure the specs all match meaning they are compatible. If you are going that route, you can use many motors that are available. The sewing machine set up is just a cheap way to do all this.

@@marcoam2610 Hi, the output from the between the foot pedal leads I measured is about 5 volts and near ground, but the voltage to the building ground is complicated. If the home/business outlet is wired correctly so that the neutral (taller slot) is actually connected to the neutral, and ground and neutral are connected at the first panel and the ground lead is properly connected to the earth, then there's still the issue that neutral is not necessarily ground. The neutral could be a little hot the ground or very hot if there's a open neutral. So you cannot assume neutral is ground. Hopefully the ground plug gives some protection if the building is wired correctly. What I did was unplug the controller and drain the capacitors, and not have anything outside the plastic box that is electrically connected to the controller. I believe stepper motor control units have high voltage, large capacity capacitors. You can do a PARTIAL drain by running the motor with the unit unplugged or turned off and you'll notice it might run for a few seconds. This doesn't mean the capacitors are completely discharged. I recommend usimg rubber gloves and double check the switch and pot are not electrically connected to any part of the controller. And as I tried to tell people, the best way is still to use the hall effect sensor. Let me know how it goes for you, thanks.

@@1man4JC Thanks a lot for your reply. Idea: Wouldn't a Non-contacting Hall Effect Single Turn Position Sensor be the simplest and most elegant method of replacement? Check "Non-Contacting Hall Effect Single Turn Position Sensor" mfg part no. '6127V1A180L.5FS'? Suitable? That would be almost plug and play, not?

@@marcoam2610 Hi, that's a great idea! I looked one up on amazon, but it looks like it's linear in relation to the turn. I cannot predict how that will respond. I ended up having to create an inverse logarithm circuit. If it's linear, then most of the control is between about 3 and 4 volts. I can only guess they designed it that way because sewing clothing may require that you start slowly. I still think it's a great idea, I just wanted to share a little info. Question, are you trying to hook up to a computer? If so I should do a little more investigation about the voltages. I can't imagine they would use an optocoupler.

@@1man4JC I just want to have a circular/cylindrical control element, no computer hook up. I get you point but according to this video, 49E is linear… th-cam.com/video/pzNvptKR4W8/w-d-xo.html What about this: Bourns® Model AMS22U Non-Contacting Analog Rotary Position Sensors

@@marcoam2610 I like their products. I used them in engineering projects because of their reliability and resolution. When I look at the one you mentioned, I'm not sure that it produces a resistance. Doesn't it produce a series of pulses? You could certainly use it with a traditional servo control system. In that case you would need a controller like Arduino or Raspberry Pi .... to interpret the pulses. I suppose you could send a voltage into the sewing machine controller using a DAC from the microcontroller if so equipped. With the right programming, it might give you a better control, but it sure is a lot of work and money.

HI Eddie, I started with a straight ladder (+Vcc, Tap, Ground), but the POT was controlling the speed only for a small range from about 60% to 75%. I took a lot of readings of voltage vs. speed and put them in a spread sheet. Then I could see the curve of input voltage needed and so I found a inverse logarithm circuit which matched the need fairly well. I modeled the circuit and I just played with resistors for the best match. I had the top resistor in the model, but the value get going up so high that it didn't make a difference. My two cents. you can use the speed control as it came, maybe take off the spring, maybe add a little friction. That's better than the POT. There's a circuit in the control arm that the servo control likes better than the POT, but have fun.

@@1man4JC Thank you so much for me i rather have a POT as just looks so much cleaner excuse my OCD. that is why i asked what resistor wattage size did you use.

@@eddierodriguez316 sorry I forgot about the resistor size. I used very small resistor, I think it was 1/8 watt.

Hi. Note: there are some seriously large high voltage capacitors so I recommend some good rubber gloves. I used a 10k pot to match the resistance I measured from the connection. I took a while to get the inverse log that the controller wants. See if you can find this th-cam.com/video/2odD3n6rj9c/w-d-xo.html to explain the connections. The pot is not a perfect match in that you can see an error each time you first power up, especially if the pot is fully CCW. But move the pot CW and the error goes away. The slide lever works well if you remove the spring, but let me know how it goes if you want the pot. I would recommend sealing the pot well if you're in a dirty location (and my shop has grit and metal dust no matter how much I clean) which is something you don't need to worry about with the slide lever.

Yes, you can write me at GlenFrancis78@gmail.com

Yes, and that's what I recommend! You can also use the speed arm instead of a potentiometer, just take off the spring.

4 pole reversing drum switch would do the trick

@@chriskucia8348ended up just finding a controller that has single button push and hold to reverse.. oddly I think the one in this video is single press and hold of the S button to reverse so not sure what the point of the switch really is.

Thank you for your comment, the guide is called a Tormek BGM-100 bench grinder mounting set. It's available on Amazon for about $100. The rest of it is just some lumber and drawer rails I put together. The biggest problem is having enough space to reach the knob, while making it to be steady and reliable.

Thank you for replying and your valuable information.@@1man4JC

I haven't made a video about scissors because I have very little experience. I just paint the edge with an indelible marker and adjust the angle so that it gets rid of the marker evenly. I do have a CAD drawing and I'll be glad to show you what I did if you email me how to contact you.

Do you think that scissor jig will fit on a toolker 1x30?

I have a toolker 1x30. Do you think I can attach the scissor guide to it?

@@vinnym5095 Hi Vinny. That looks like a cool machine, I haven't seen one like that. Sorry, I cannot immediately see a place to mount a scissor jig like the one I have, but I'm hoping you can find a way I cannot see or another type of jig.

@@1man4JC where can I find the swing arm and mount scissor mount?

Hopefully I’m remembering this, but you can check the literature. As you may know, you can change direction using the controller only. There’s no need for a complex external switch. To do this, you will change parameter 5. The controller must be on and the belt not running. To enter the parameter change mode, simultaneously push and hold the ‘P’ and ‘S’ buttons for a few seconds. I find it easiest to use both thumbs. Now use the green up and down buttons to select parameter 5. Press the S button to enter the parameter change mode. Use the green up and down buttons to select “on” or “off” which really means clockwise and counter clockwise. Then push the S button to save the change. Now the belt should run in the opposite direction. I think that the controller remembers you have chosen parameter 5, so you don’t have to scroll the parameter list every time. Once you’ve done it a few times, it’s not as difficult as it sounds.

@@1man4JC thank you very much. I just upgraded my 1x30’s motor.

Search Amazon for "Tormek BGM-100 Bench Grinder Mounting Set",. The mount is a couple of 2x4s glued together and mounted on drawer slides. Using the slides vertically might be better. Hope that helps.

@@1man4JC ok those slides are available on Amazon as well? You have rollers underneath the mount? On the 2 by 4’s?

@@robertmunguia250 It's been a while, but this is what I have in my purchase history: "Zengest Full Extension Less Noise Ball Bearing Drawer Slides, 10 Inches, 1-Pair" Also, to stabilize the block: "POWERTEC 20323 Push/Pull Quick-Release Toggle Clamp 301A - 100 lbs Holding Capacity w Rubber Pressure Tip, 2PK" Note: there is some tricky geometry. I lifted the sander about 1.5" high on an L-shaped block so I could use the tension release knob. From memory, that's why I choose to lay the bearing down horizontally. Also, I had to bevel the block. Send me an email please: GlenFrancis78@gmail.com and we can discuss it further.

Ok sure thing! Thanks.

Vertically?

Normally you´d be right about the potentiometer, however in this case the schematic is correct, and kind of clever: by using the 1k2 resistor to connect +5V to the middle lug you omit the variable resistance between the "free" lug and the wiper, essentially forming a voltage divider where one "side" always has the same resistance and the other "side" is variable through pot movement. This will radically change the curve of the potentiometer, which in this use case gives you much better control of motor speed across the movement range of the pot. It works very well, I know because I did the same to my control box today.

can i have a diagram please?

On my control, reverse is had by holding the YELLOW down until the tiny indicator in the YELLOW button illuminates or extinguishes.

Did you ever get around to the resistors used on the yellow and ground wire? I'm considering doing the same

Hi Robert, the literature I got shows that parameter P-01 is the startup speed and the default is 500. It looks like you can make it as low as 100. Does that help? Please email me so I can send you some pictures and we can discuss boring the pulley.

Hi Robert, in order to use a locking nut and bolt on the front I had to put a spacer on the back (between the motor and the drive wheel). I started making a spacer, but I found a large split washer that was great between the motor as a spacer. The size I remember was a 5/8" split washer but I can check if you like.

@@1man4JC ok sure that would greatly help! How many of those split washers did you put? What screws would I use to mount the motor on casing? Also mine didn’t come with that square aluminum bracket to mount it. You happen to have one?

Here are some specs of the hardware I used for mounting the motor. I used one split washer as a spacer is 5/8”ID, 1”OD, 0.165” thick. Note: using a split washer is not ideal. First it doesn't close all the way which would throw the balance out if the hole isn't bored for a tight fit. It would be better to make a spacer that exactly holds the pulley out to the centerline. It looks like you can buy metal tubing from Amazon: "uxcell 6063 Aluminum Round Tube, 300mm Length 20mm OD 15mm Inner Dia Seamless Aluminum Straight Tubing 2 Pcs" and part off a piece to length. (4) The motor mounting screws are M4-0.7x20mm. (4) You’ll need to drill 4mm holes* x 65mm apart in the sander frame, aligned with the center of the opening hole. (*but I would make the holes bigger if drilling by hand) The sewing machine motor shaft and pulley connection is different than the HF motor that uses a flat on the motor shaft. The sewing machine shaft is round with a woodruff key slot and has a 15mm diameter. This is larger than the HF motor, so the pulley must be bored precisely perpendicular and to almost exactly 15mm. The set screw included with HF pulley takes a 3mm allen wrench. This set screw can be reused and screwed into the new motor woodruff type slot. The tooth washer is 1/2” I think the holding nut is M12x1.75. Note: I didn't need to use all the threads in the nut to get close to the center line. Sorry, I'm not sure what you mean by "square aluminum bracket"? Can you help me?

@@1man4JC yes, on the video of your motor mounted it has a square aluminum bracket that goes with those M4 screws on the HF machine.Just look at the motor mounted to the case of the HF sander. That’s what I’m talking about. My motor doesn’t have that bracket.

Hi Ume, from the user manual, parameter 6 controls "acceleration time from 0 to 4500 (spm). Time = 900 / value (ms)". The default is 6. It looks like you can change this from one to nine. I don't see anything about deceleration. It looks like you can change PID coefficients which should affect both acceleration and deceleration. Parameter 30 says "waiting time for needle position stop", but I'm not sure what that means. That's all I know, hope that helps.

Hi Ibrahim, if I'm understanding your question, the answer is yes. The direction switch system and pot are separate systems. You can always use the controller to change direction. Let me know how it goes 😊. Oh and I would also put it in a plastic box and not touch the leads while it's hot just in case there is a hot chassis and the ground and hotwire's are reversed.

@@1man4JC Thanks for your reply Glen, So I had this done to my motor a few years ago, 10k pot wired directly to the 3 wire cable of the speed control lever. Only the guy who did it for me connected all 3 wires to the 3 points on the pot. It worked well for a time but recently it has become really jumpy and the range has reduced almost to only top speed. Could this be a fault with the pot itself ? I tried wiring the pot as you indicated but it would not run. I have a 5k one from my old sherline controller which looks so much more solid than the 10k one I have but you advise not to use 5k? Amazed to have found someone discussing this! thanks so much for sharing and for your replies.

​@@ibrahimbatchelder7343 Disclaimer: I've installed just this one unit and spent very little time with it. Maybe someone else can also try to help. I only experienced jumping when a 3 phase sensor was not connected properly but I'm guessing a faulty pot would do the same. Because something changed, If it were mine, I would first see if jumpy/range problem is in the machine (either controller or sensors) or the pot. I would do this by checking the resistance of the pot or input voltage as you turn it and see it goes open circuit sometimes. You could also check the controller by re-connecting the original foot pedal sensor which is actually a hall effect sensor circuit and see how it runs. Being crazy enough to try a pot, I ran a test where I wrote down the input voltage vs speed and was surprised to find that the control range is mostly between 3 to 4 volts. The motor would not run at all below about 2.5 volts and over 4 volts didn't make it go faster. (Please be careful with this. One user correctly pointed out that the controller could be a hot chassis and also energy is stored in some large capacitors, so you might want to use rubber gloves.) In my experience, pots can be a pain. When the wiper disconnects due to dirt, loss of springiness, vibration, being pushed/changed or just being cheap, then you have a momentary open circuit. That might cause it to be jumpy. If you really want to use a pot, all I can say is buy a good one and test it. Now, which size? I measured the internal resistance at 10K and sure enough the 10K pot worked best. My first attempt was to wire the pot directly to the 3 wires (with the variable wire on the wiper which I think was yellow) and it barely worked. So I plotting voltage vs speed and tried various circuit diagrams to match it. I found an inverse log circuit and used a spreadsheet to get the 1.2k resistor value, which worked okay for that particular unit. I had modeled a resistor on the top of the pot, but the resistance calculations went to infinity so I just left it open. FYI: The controller gives an error code when I start with the pot all the way down, but I make a couple of turns and the error goes away. I'd love to hear how it goes.

Hi Dana. If I understand your question, the controller has a connection for a sewing machine light. The version I have is for the US(and a few other countries): 110 volt, two vertical slots with no ground pin. Here's a picture of what I have: drive.google.com/file/d/1kAua3J9fydtlV5AYDSsVH_InFqUZoAFg/view?usp=share_link I know vast majority of other countries use power connections with round pin holes. Is that what you're talking about? If so I don't know enough about those type of connectors to really help you since even those vary between countries. Also I'm not sure what power input versions are available from Mophon since Amazon only shows me US versions. I do know there are sewing LED lights for the US 110v system because I have a few. All the other connections are Molex with about 3.9 mm square hole, and I can't measure the exact pin size because it's deep in the Molex connector but they look to be about 1mm. FYI: my sewing machine light power is ON even if the controller is OFF. The controller manual says parameter 07 adjusts the LED light brightness but I've never tried it because I'm using it for power to the relays. Please let me know if I can help any further, blessings to you, Glen

@@1man4JC Thankyou for responding. Yes I’m in the US also and the back of my controller has the same pin connectors that you have on yours. (the white pin connectors) So I was just trying to figure out what size and type of connectors those are so I can soldure the wires to it myself. The light section is a 2 pin connector. I guess I could just order what looks right and hope it fits.

Oh it’s called a molex connector? That helps.

@@Dahna_ You're right, I forgot and the literature says the white two pin connector is the LED connection, my bad. I guess you need something like: search Amazon "Molex Mini Fit Jr 16awg Female Crimp" BUT I'm also not sure if this is the correct size. I don't think you need to solder those but it's certainly more reliable. It's okay to laugh but I've jammed wires into the holes, with something to stabilize them, and it works 90% of the time 😂

@@1man4JC oh wow ok thanks for the tips! im going to just order molex mini connectors female on amazon or somewhere and see if it works. thank God for people like you who share the knowledge on TH-cam .

Hi Richard, that's an interesting idea, to use this on the mini lathe. I'd love to hear how it turns out (pun intended). I'm interested if it has enough torque because I just don't know. If you look at 6:12 in the video you'll see the 1.2K resistor and how it's wired. I think I did say resistors, plural, but there's only one needed, I just remembered it wrong because I did some experiments with two resistors. The pot works okay, in my case, I just have to turn it a little when it first powers up to clear an error. The resistor is required because the signal that the controller is expecting is not linear. The resistor makes an inverse log function which is close to the input the controller expects. If you can use the foot arm sensor, it's a better match to the controller. The foot arm sensor has a spring that you can remove and just push the arm back and forth for various speeds.

@@1man4JC ill let you know how it works, torque wise it should be better than the current motor, the idea behind using the potentiometer and reverse switch arrangement was to have the control integrated into the lathe control box, so they are local, the method you use seems ideal, however I will try to use the foot pedal switch initially. Thanks for confirmation on the resistor, it was clearly on the wiring diagram, I just missed it

@@1man4JC I'm not electronics expert so forgive me. You must have a fair amount of electronics understanding to figure this out correctly. How did you determine a 10K pot and a 1.2k resistor?

​@@GlennInLaguna It's a good question, but not easy to answer in a short comment (and my memory is...what was the question again). The best control is the one that came with the motor which has integrated circuits and a hall effect sensor and in hind sight I would have just used it. But for a pot -- It looked like the controller internal resistance is 10k which I assume is to keep an open circuit from driving full speed. I recorded measurements of the relationship of input voltage and resulting speed and put that in a spreadsheet with a graph. The graph is highly non-linear -- it doesn't really start controlling the motor until about 3 volts and then maximum speed is at about 4 volts. To make a long story short, I designed a resistor ladder to give an inverse logarithmic output into a 10k load, put the equations in the spread sheet and graphed the results. To do this you need to model the pot as two resistors changing together for each step in the graph. I tried different ladders and sized pots in the equations and the best one was 10k (which isn't a big surprise because the input resistance is 10k). The 1.2k was the closest value calculated to make a reasonable inv-log match. There is no connection on the top of the pot because increasing it toward infinity worked best. You can email me if you want a copy of the spread sheet or I can help further.

Hello, I just wanted to add that I have one of these motors, exact same specs as you have on my home built mini metal lathe and it definitely has enough torque. I have had the lathe for about three years now and it is really good for my small metal projects and parts that i make. I also bought one for a benchtop bandsaw that I bought at a pawn shop and converted it to the servo motor so I could control the speed better to do some metal cutting. There is a copule of videos on my channel about that conversion. I am about finished now with a third sewing machine servo motor I have attached to my WEN benchtop drill press that I also converted to do some milling. Those servo motors are really essential I think for power with a small footprint and the versatility of being able to adjust speed beyond the pulley changes or just the basic one speed of some smaller tools. I wanted to convert the speed sensor from the foot pedal to the pot like you show in your build so thanks for posting that process. I do find that reversing the motor direction is useful, but just so simple by just holding the yellow S button for a few seconds until the little dot appears or disappears for the correct direction.

Hi John, Thanks for sharing your input. Your description sounds correct. I'm pretty sure it's 3 phase stepper motor, but mine also includes 3 hall effect sensors; hence 3 large wires and 3 small ones (plus some other wires: black & ground wires?). I tired just reversing one pair of main wires, but the motor went crazy fwd/rev. Then I found a pair of sensors wires could also be reversed and it ran smoothly. Does that help?

​@@1man4JC Edited for correction to my mistake... Yes, reversing power wires + the corresponding sensors would make more sense and require a more complex wiring setup ... that does appear to be what is shown at 7:20 , I completely mis-read the wording in the diagram ... also, supposedly holding the yellow button down for 3 seconds will set the control into reverse on most of these controls, but that requires 3+ seconds, maybe you require a faster switch-over time? ... Thanks for your reply and understanding my mis-understanding ... John

Yes it's the same wheel, but I had to bore it out to a slightly larger diameter. I used a metal lathe because that's what I have handy. A wood lathe should work well with the right chuck. I suspect a drill bit would be okay but I would get a bit that gives a tight fit. Between the motor and the wheel I wanted a spacer that would allow me to torque the wheel into the motor shaft and I started to make one, but I found a large lock washer that could do the job.. After I torqued the wheel down, I drove the existing set screw into the key slot for a little extra connection. As you may know, the harbor freight wheels are notoriously centered badly. So after mounting, I shaved the wheel to make sure it's well centered which helps cut down somewhat on vibration. I flipped the sander on its side and there's an open area where you can insert a chisel backwards and do some trimming, but I don't recommend this because of the risk that it will kick out. You might want to look at the comments to Grant Lauinger. If you hit "read more" there are also photos. Grant suggested that a guy named Cliff Curry makes properly sized wheels. I also found another website called knifegrinderparts.com. I would love to hear how it comes out and please email me if you have any questions. If you can't find another solution and you're willing to you pay for shipping both ways then I'll bore it out for free.

@@1man4JC sure thing. Thanks I’ve wanted to make the original fit in the psi motor. It’s a variable speed motor also. That shaft is also 15mm.

I’m interested in having stock wheel bored out. Where do I send it to? I’ll pay ship.

Hi John, I bought the scissor arm & jig from a company in Canada called Elitetools and I think the product is made by Viel. Their current offering is at www.elitetools.ca/en/portable-mini-vise-s-bessey-s-10. It appears that the arm design has changed. All I can say is the one I'm using is very solid and smooth. The scissor holder jig is also well made. To install it, I made a receptacle slot by milling a 1/4" steel plate and then attaching it to the side of the 1x30. The connection is tight, but I'm able to remove the arm if needed. I'll send you a CAD drawing if that will help. Another source might be wolffindustries.com/collections/arms/Twice-As-Sharp.

Yes, it's a 15mm shaft. It would be wonderful to have a better pulley(s) than the ones from HF. Please feel free to give a link to Cliff's offer. FYI: When I took it apart to check the shaft diameter, I took a few pictures (see files below). That reminded me that I used a spacer between the motor bearings and the pulley. I thought about making a spacer, but I found a large 5/8" split lock washer that acts as a spacer and helps lock the pulley on as well. The HF motor shaft had a flat grind and a set screw but the sewing machine motor has a slot. I guess you could cut a matching slot on the pulley for a key, but I just used a tooth locking washer on the outside to help with the grip. Plus I aligned the slot with the set screw (3mm Allen head) for a little extra slip resistance. All together it JUST did fit so that i have enough threads exposed on the motor shaft. I'm not certain that the big pulley is perfectly aligned with the little ones so a more precise spacer is something you might consider. Right now I can adjust the belt tracking to work fine, but it does require re-adjustment when changing direction. I'd love to hear how it goes for you, Glen drive.google.com/file/d/1M3ViiPy7emZTMXv1mCTkBtW-eMUrZAAH/view?usp=sharing drive.google.com/file/d/1MKmnJr_x6zaHHff1lmKxvjnFzzqhtkKC/view?usp=sharing

Finally got my motor. Mine has a shaft collar and what looks like a set screw tucked underneath the drive wheel, but no way to access. I'll have to figure that out. Was yours like that? Looks the same as yours. Sorry, never sent you the link. Cliff sells a set of trued wheels and one that fits the 15 mm shaft. shop.currycustomcutlery.com/collections/machine-parts/products/test-bundle

Hi ijanster, Yes that would work and be easier. I tried to find one before I began the project but didn't see one. I think it would be called a quad pole double throw switch (4PDT). I did a search just now and actually found one: www.tubesandmore.com/products/switch-footswitch-4pdt-blue-12-pins. Please double check if you choose to use it because I'm not up on switch terminology. Just an aside for anyone reading this. The switch is not necessary if you don't mind pushing a few buttons on the controller that will change the direction. Also, the POT isn't necessary because you can take off the spring and use the lever arm as is.

​@@1man4JC Maybe a rotary cam selector switch?

I'd be glad to TRY and help. You don't really need the dial because it comes with a nice little arm to control speed; just remove the spring and you're good to go. You can also change the direction in about 10 seconds of pushing buttons. However I did make a video about how to connect the dial and a direction switch. See th-cam.com/video/2odD3n6rj9c/w-d-xo.html but I think you're better off using it as it comes unless you just like tinkering with electronics. I bought "Consew CSM1000 Sewing Machine Electric Servo Motor, 110 Volt, 3/4HP, 550W " on Amazon which fit just fine with some moderate precision drilling of the mounting holes and boring the pulley hole a little bigger. This unit has four symmetrical mounting holes. Note: I did try a version which has a hood over the pulley like "Mophorn 110V 600W Sewing Machine Servo Motor Max Speed 4500RPM Energy Saving Mute Tie Bar Brushless Servo Motor for Industrial Sewing Machine" on Amazon. That version has three mounting holes but they are not symmetrical. I think it would work okay if you mount the motor so that the screws are opposite the force pulling on the pulley, but for simplicity I'd look for a four hole unit. So you're not in Harbor Freight territory? Just curious where you live. You can order the same thing on Amazon, eBay but pay more than walking into a HF store.

Hi Lapo, thanks for your request. I will try and put something together soon. Glen

Here's video describing the potentiometer and a couple of ways to control direction. Hope this helps, please let me know how it goes. See th-cam.com/video/2odD3n6rj9c/w-d-xo.html Glen