I replaced the timing belt, pressure switch and even compressor, still didnt fix the ac. All the fuse looks good too. Can't figure out the problem, its very strange.
Recently I was told that there's no ground in the AC relay switch, but other than that not able to figure out whats wrong. I have had the refrigerant tested through gauges and that looks good. Sorry I mean the ac belt was replaced, not the timing belt. Condenser looks good too. Heater works pretty good, i dont know whats a heater/drier.
My a/c in my 2017 ford escape only works at night or early morning when it's cool. It blows hot during the day. Can you tell me why? It sure is hot in Texas!
You may wish to hook up a manifold gauge set to the system to help with the diagnosis. Many automotive stores lend them for free. I wish you the best on your repair
It worked for me last year. I bought cheap ones on eBay. Replaced it twice last year and worked fine. Then spring time this year the ac stopped working again. Replaced the switch again from Amazon and didn’t work. Returned it and Amazon sent me a replacement thinking it was defective. Still doesn’t work. Tried swapping the fuses. Still nothing
Great video! Im working through the steps as you did. Going to replace the transducer next. Having a bit of trouble finding the actual part. Theres a 90$ (ish) part that shows up when they search for this as well as a 30$ (ish) part. If you happen to have more details on how to locate this specific part, I'd be thankful!!
follow a silver colored pipe to an upright can wrapped in black plastic. the can will also have a black hose going to it. the transducer will be on the top of that can. I wish you the best on your repair
Maybe someone can help figuring out my ac or radiator fan problem. Wen I start my Escape 11 3,0l xlt. Sometime both radiator fan work on full throttle ac off and dont stop until ignition off and sometimes they work perfectly until the temperature sensor turn them on. If I pushing the ac button the compressor start, the heater fan work good on all speed but no cool air. I don’t mind a none working ac. My question is that normal for the fan running like crazy.
If the compressor is running (clutch engaged) and you have no cold air, most likely the HVAC blend door is inoperable. Also check the cabin air filter to ensure it’s not completely clogged, or if someone removed it, and now the condenser is clogged. This can cause the condenser coil to freeze rather quickly, preventing heat exchange. Finally check the HVAC air temperature sensor to ensure it hasn’t failed.
@@ChrisLegg17 unfortunately no it didn't work. The problem was the pigtail connector snapped somehow so it wasn't getting power. Took it to the shop and got it fixed for pretty cheap.
So mine kicks on and off like you mentioned, I checked pressure, it's in the red when not running and middle to upper green when running. It'll kick on and off for a few minutes just after starting the car and then just quits kicking on all together. When it is on, it's blowing ice cold air. Could the transducer (whatever it was you changed in this video) be bad, or do you suspect something else? Thanks!
It is hard to diagnose, without looking at the gauge, yet if it is not the transducer you may wish to look closer at the expansion valve which will require the refrigerant to be professionally removed. I wish you the best with your repair
Do you know if you need to pull the Freon out first or can I swap this part out without draining the system? My low side pressure is 120, then randomly the compressor runs and it drops to 40psi, so I don’t think Freon levels are my issues. And the relays seem to have no change.
Is there supposed to be power at that transducer switch plug? I'm assuming so. I have power at the fuse but when I use the test light on the 3 pins of the switch it doesn't light up.
I've been burning up in Texas for a week. I will try this tomorrow. My clutch had a black tar like substance on it. I heard a squeal and then the air started blowing warm last saturday.
My ac went out too and I live in Dallas I want to try this out to see if it works but no junk yards are open today, have you gone ahead and did the repair yet? Did it work?
thanks for telling me that I can’t jump the pressure switch any more . i did not know this and went past the potential problem because the jump did not work!
Thanks for the tips, It's starting to heat up in Australia & my A/C hasn't worked for two years! I'm well overdue to fix it and this has given me a great place to start fault finding, cheers.
So mines been going in and out as well it doesn’t stay on long at all, one day it did it all day hasn’t done it for awhile now it’s doing it again and this time worse than before, if it needed freeon wouldn’t there be a leak? I recently got the condenser replaced and a few weeks ago when it happened the first time around I took it back they did a pressure test and said they couldn’t find any issues but also at that time the clutch was engaging just fine so I figured they wouldn’t find anything
Also if it ends up not being the freeon like you said at the end of the video due to it going in and out, do you just replace the compressor at that point?
freeon came out, could the switch that you talked about that needs the right pressure also be the cause of the compressor engaging then disengaging? When it does engage it’s cold as ice but of course as soon as it’s not it’s hot air again and sure enough it’s still engaging then disengaging shortly after then waits awhile before it does it again
you will need a manifold gauge set to double check the pressure and if it has enough refrigerant in the system, many auto parts stores have some they loan out for free. I wish you the best on your repair
@@bbbjim1fixedit thank you I think I’m good now, originally I got the condenser replaced by the shop then the compressor started to cut in and out, shop said it was fine, ended up taking it back and they tried to say the same thing but by that time I noticed it did work fine in the mornings, and that’s when they were looking at it instead of when it got hot out in the afternoon, they looked again and apparently a seal needed replaced and so they did that and the recharge (for free but my condenser replacement and recharge originally was $600) now it’s working fine other then yesterday when the compressor completely stopped coming on rather than kicking in and out like it did before, turns out the pressure sensor I ordered off Amazon when the a/c was kicking on and off was a pos, luckily I kept my original one. I think I paid about $15 from Amazon since the autozone and advanced auto stores wanted nearly $100 for the pressure sensor haha
I will be trying your fixes. What do you think of the Air Conditioner Recharge Kits (Mr. Freeze or AC Pro) at auto parts stores to fill your own synthetic refrigerant?
If your refrigerant is low it means you have a leak in the system that needs to be repaired. The cans sold at stores typically contain a leak sealer which may or may not seal even a very small leak. Shops that have refrigerant recovery machines may refuse to evacuate your refrigerant if it contains a sealer since it messes up their equipment. It is illegal in the US to knowingly release refrigerant into the atmosphere. Many auto parts stores have loaner gauge sets to check your refrigerant pressures. The pressure should be checked before adding any refrigerant. Over filling the system will make it not work just as an under system. I wish you the best on your repair
@@bbbjim1fixedit yes it is i figured out. For some reason the red pc was disconnecting and was in the pressure switch. I did get working. I blew some air through the threaded end and it works for now. Thx for the video!
my 2012 4 cyl has started blowing extremely cold, then hot. Back and forth until the outside temp gets around 80, then it quits working. Just hot air for me! Someone said the heater/.drier needs replaced. Does that make sense? TIA.
To better diagnose the issue you will need an ac manifold pressure gauge. Many automotive stores will lend you them for free. if some of your refrigerant leaked out the gauge will show that. I wish you the best on your repair
I had a full charge of refrigerant, newer blower motor resistor, and the compressor clutch would engage for about 1 second when turning on the ac then disengage. I wish I knew of a test for the transducer switch but I don't know of any for this type. I wish you the best on your repair
Using a multi-meter, check the switch for continuity. Closed is required to engage the compressor. 2 prong are simple. 3 prong have 3 possible combinations, whereas 4 prong have 6 possible combinations. Videos are available indicating test method. Don’t just throw parts at the problem. Take your time and logically test the system.
I have an 09' the clutch is kicking on & off but no AC. Fuses & Relays all good.. Hooked up a can of freon with gauge & it was in the Red. Luckily I have Carshield & they gonna pay for it I figure its the high or low pressure switch
If it’s in the red, the system is over charged, or the vehicle is not running. The problem with DIY refrigerant purchases is the danger of over charging. If the compressor is trying to cycle upon engine start, then stops, the pressure switch could be the cause. Otherwise it’s possible the compressor has or is failing. Keep us updated on findings.
My 2011 just started blowing hot air the other day. Relays are good but compressor clutch never kicks on. I hooked up a can of refrigerant to recharge it but it goes to the red area saying it’s too high. Gonna try replacing the ac pressure valve if y’all have any other ideas let me know please 🙏
@@ChrisLegg17 Ac Receiver Dryer contaminated the entire system and messed up the compressor. I had to buy all new components and have it all replaced ran me about $800 for the parts and labor
you may wish to take a closer look at the wires going from the fuse box to the compressor, a wire missing the insulation can ground out blowing the fuse. Next look at the ac compressor clutch, that may have a short circuit. I wish you the best on your repair
You were taken by the previous owner who should’ve disclosed that issue. The fuse is blowing due to overcurrent either caused by a faulty lead (hot) wire, or the clutch has failed. Unplug the clutch, then test the wires to ground. If both indicate continuity to ground, then look for cuts or other ground points. If the wires test ok, then test the clutch coil. If the clutch, these can often be replaced without discharging the system.
I replaced the timing belt, pressure switch and even compressor, still didnt fix the ac. All the fuse looks good too. Can't figure out the problem, its very strange.
Timing belt is for the engine not ac
Ac condenser replace
did you replace the heater/drier? Im wondering if thats not whats wrong with my 2012.
Recently I was told that there's no ground in the AC relay switch, but other than that not able to figure out whats wrong.
I have had the refrigerant tested through gauges and that looks good. Sorry I mean the ac belt was replaced, not the timing belt. Condenser looks good too. Heater works pretty good, i dont know whats a heater/drier.
I did the same it end up being the battery…
My a/c in my 2017 ford escape only works at night or early morning when it's cool. It blows hot during the day. Can you tell me why? It sure is hot in Texas!
You may want to look closer at the electric fans behind the radiator and ensure they are running, I wish you the best on your repair
Could also be the expansion valve about to go out or that the car is running hot because of the fan
I replaced mine and sadly it didn’t solved the problem so what could it be? The ac compressor?
You may wish to hook up a manifold gauge set to the system to help with the diagnosis. Many automotive stores lend them for free. I wish you the best on your repair
Great video! Witching 45 mins I checked the fuses, checked Freon, purchased and added Freon and now my car 🚙 is cold 🥶 as ice!!!!!
Glad it helped
It worked for me last year. I bought cheap ones on eBay. Replaced it twice last year and worked fine. Then spring time this year the ac stopped working again. Replaced the switch again from Amazon and didn’t work. Returned it and Amazon sent me a replacement thinking it was defective. Still doesn’t work. Tried swapping the fuses. Still nothing
Great video! Im working through the steps as you did. Going to replace the transducer next. Having a bit of trouble finding the actual part. Theres a 90$ (ish) part that shows up when they search for this as well as a 30$ (ish) part.
If you happen to have more details on how to locate this specific part, I'd be thankful!!
follow a silver colored pipe to an upright can wrapped in black plastic. the can will also have a black hose going to it. the transducer will be on the top of that can. I wish you the best on your repair
This sold my problem. Many thanks!
Glad to hear
Maybe someone can help figuring out my ac or radiator fan problem. Wen I start my Escape 11 3,0l xlt. Sometime both radiator fan work on full throttle ac off and dont stop until ignition off and sometimes they work perfectly until the temperature sensor turn them on. If I pushing the ac button the compressor start, the heater fan work good on all speed but no cool air. I don’t mind a none working ac. My question is that normal for the fan running like crazy.
If the compressor is running (clutch engaged) and you have no cold air, most likely the HVAC blend door is inoperable. Also check the cabin air filter to ensure it’s not completely clogged, or if someone removed it, and now the condenser is clogged. This can cause the condenser coil to freeze rather quickly, preventing heat exchange. Finally check the HVAC air temperature sensor to ensure it hasn’t failed.
Thanks for the video. Going to give this a try! My compressor was changed 3 years ago so, hoping this works 🤞
I wish you the best
Did it work?
@@ChrisLegg17 unfortunately no it didn't work. The problem was the pigtail connector snapped somehow so it wasn't getting power. Took it to the shop and got it fixed for pretty cheap.
So mine kicks on and off like you mentioned, I checked pressure, it's in the red when not running and middle to upper green when running. It'll kick on and off for a few minutes just after starting the car and then just quits kicking on all together. When it is on, it's blowing ice cold air. Could the transducer (whatever it was you changed in this video) be bad, or do you suspect something else? Thanks!
It is hard to diagnose, without looking at the gauge, yet if it is not the transducer you may wish to look closer at the expansion valve which will require the refrigerant to be professionally removed. I wish you the best with your repair
Do you know if you need to pull the Freon out first or can I swap this part out without draining the system? My low side pressure is 120, then randomly the compressor runs and it drops to 40psi, so I don’t think Freon levels are my issues. And the relays seem to have no change.
Changing this transducer can be done with the system full
Hello. Is that the lower pressure switch? I have a 2010 ford escape and having the same issue.
The part I changed is a transducer that does measure the pressure
great comtent thanks to you my ac is back on track...
Great to hear
Is there supposed to be power at that transducer switch plug? I'm assuming so. I have power at the fuse but when I use the test light on the 3 pins of the switch it doesn't light up.
I believe it is 5 volts so a test light may not light up. I wish you the best on your repair
does the car need to be running when checking burst of freon with screwdriver?
No
I've been burning up in Texas for a week. I will try this tomorrow. My clutch had a black tar like substance on it. I heard a squeal and then the air started blowing warm last saturday.
I wish you the best on your repair
My ac went out too and I live in Dallas I want to try this out to see if it works but no junk yards are open today, have you gone ahead and did the repair yet? Did it work?
Thank you very much for the advice and information
Glad it was helpful
Well done!!! Very concise helped me a lot...ty for taking the time to post the video...happy father's day too...
Thanks, you too
That’s exactly what happening to my 2012 Ford Escape
I wish you the best on your repair
thanks for telling me that I can’t jump the pressure switch any more . i did not know this and went past the potential problem because the jump did not work!
Glad I could help
This system uses R134 and not Freon it is your responsibility to check what type of refrigerant your car a/c uses.
You are right
thanks for your insights, hopefully it helps my brother on his Escape's AC
I wish him the best
Thanks for the tips, It's starting to heat up in Australia & my A/C hasn't worked for two years! I'm well overdue to fix it and this has given me a great place to start fault finding, cheers.
Glad it helped
Did you ever fix it?
@@ChrisLegg17I haven't got it fixed yet, the compressor clutch seems to pull in ok. Getting tempted to take it to get looked at.
Great video!! Thank you so much for sharing 😊
glad you liked it
Great video Sr.
What's the part name again i didn't catch it. ???
Ac pressure switch, I wish you the best on your repair
The fuse swap worked for me 😅😂
great to hear
So mines been going in and out as well it doesn’t stay on long at all, one day it did it all day hasn’t done it for awhile now it’s doing it again and this time worse than before, if it needed freeon wouldn’t there be a leak? I recently got the condenser replaced and a few weeks ago when it happened the first time around I took it back they did a pressure test and said they couldn’t find any issues but also at that time the clutch was engaging just fine so I figured they wouldn’t find anything
Also if it ends up not being the freeon like you said at the end of the video due to it going in and out, do you just replace the compressor at that point?
freeon came out, could the switch that you talked about that needs the right pressure also be the cause of the compressor engaging then disengaging? When it does engage it’s cold as ice but of course as soon as it’s not it’s hot air again and sure enough it’s still engaging then disengaging shortly after then waits awhile before it does it again
likely the compressor is fine and won't need replacing
you will need a manifold gauge set to double check the pressure and if it has enough refrigerant in the system, many auto parts stores have some they loan out for free. I wish you the best on your repair
@@bbbjim1fixedit thank you I think I’m good now, originally I got the condenser replaced by the shop then the compressor started to cut in and out, shop said it was fine, ended up taking it back and they tried to say the same thing but by that time I noticed it did work fine in the mornings, and that’s when they were looking at it instead of when it got hot out in the afternoon, they looked again and apparently a seal needed replaced and so they did that and the recharge (for free but my condenser replacement and recharge originally was $600) now it’s working fine other then yesterday when the compressor completely stopped coming on rather than kicking in and out like it did before, turns out the pressure sensor I ordered off Amazon when the a/c was kicking on and off was a pos, luckily I kept my original one. I think I paid about $15 from Amazon since the autozone and advanced auto stores wanted nearly $100 for the pressure sensor haha
I will be trying your fixes. What do you think of the Air Conditioner Recharge Kits (Mr. Freeze or AC Pro) at auto parts stores to fill your own synthetic refrigerant?
If your refrigerant is low it means you have a leak in the system that needs to be repaired. The cans sold at stores typically contain a leak sealer which may or may not seal even a very small leak. Shops that have refrigerant recovery machines may refuse to evacuate your refrigerant if it contains a sealer since it messes up their equipment. It is illegal in the US to knowingly release refrigerant into the atmosphere. Many auto parts stores have loaner gauge sets to check your refrigerant pressures. The pressure should be checked before adding any refrigerant. Over filling the system will make it not work just as an under system. I wish you the best on your repair
@@bbbjim1fixedit where would you go to have your refrigerant reclaimed
@@joepayer1793 Any automotive shop in the US that services ac will have a recovery machine. It takes about 1/2 hour to evacuate the system
mine is a 3 pin , but had a red plastic pc. in the plug??
The plug in this video is similar to yours
@@bbbjim1fixedit yes it is i figured out. For some reason the red pc was disconnecting and was in the pressure switch. I did get working. I blew some air through the threaded end and it works for now. Thx for the video!
@@EdStaniszewski glad the video helped
Thanks for the video brotha
Any time
my 2012 4 cyl has started blowing extremely cold, then hot. Back and forth until the outside temp gets around 80, then it quits working. Just hot air for me! Someone said the heater/.drier needs replaced. Does that make sense? TIA.
To better diagnose the issue you will need an ac manifold pressure gauge. Many automotive stores will lend you them for free. if some of your refrigerant leaked out the gauge will show that. I wish you the best on your repair
How do you know if the recycle pressure switch is bad?
I had a full charge of refrigerant, newer blower motor resistor, and the compressor clutch would engage for about 1 second when turning on the ac then disengage. I wish I knew of a test for the transducer switch but I don't know of any for this type. I wish you the best on your repair
@@bbbjim1fixedit Thank you for the reply 😊
Using a multi-meter, check the switch for continuity. Closed is required to engage the compressor. 2 prong are simple. 3 prong have 3 possible combinations, whereas 4 prong have 6 possible combinations. Videos are available indicating test method.
Don’t just throw parts at the problem. Take your time and logically test the system.
I have an 09' the clutch is kicking on & off but no AC. Fuses & Relays all good..
Hooked up a can of freon with gauge & it was in the Red.
Luckily I have Carshield & they gonna pay for it
I figure its the high or low pressure switch
you likely had some of your refrigerant leak out and it doesn't have enough in the system to keep running.
If it’s in the red, the system is over charged, or the vehicle is not running. The problem with DIY refrigerant purchases is the danger of over charging. If the compressor is trying to cycle upon engine start, then stops, the pressure switch could be the cause. Otherwise it’s possible the compressor has or is failing. Keep us updated on findings.
Thanks bro
Any time
My 2011 just started blowing hot air the other day. Relays are good but compressor clutch never kicks on. I hooked up a can of refrigerant to recharge it but it goes to the red area saying it’s too high. Gonna try replacing the ac pressure valve if y’all have any other ideas let me know please 🙏
I wish you the best
Did you ever figure out the issue? Having the same issue myself
It will show as overfilled if the compressor is not running.
Did you ever fix it? What was the issue? I have the same problem with my 2011
@@ChrisLegg17 Ac Receiver Dryer contaminated the entire system and messed up the compressor. I had to buy all new components and have it all replaced ran me about $800 for the parts and labor
08 escape wat if the 10amp fuse keeps blowin out? 2 so far. wen i got this car the plug for the ac compresor was disconected
you may wish to take a closer look at the wires going from the fuse box to the compressor, a wire missing the insulation can ground out blowing the fuse. Next look at the ac compressor clutch, that may have a short circuit. I wish you the best on your repair
@@bbbjim1fixedit thanx alot
Mine had a little cut in the clutch wire, shorting out against the fire wall.
You were taken by the previous owner who should’ve disclosed that issue. The fuse is blowing due to overcurrent either caused by a faulty lead (hot) wire, or the clutch has failed. Unplug the clutch, then test the wires to ground. If both indicate continuity to ground, then look for cuts or other ground points. If the wires test ok, then test the clutch coil. If the clutch, these can often be replaced without discharging the system.
@@dropndeal bought from copart